Went to check the water in my 10K D6C today after last running it a few days ago for probably six hours and found a brown oily sludge at the top. Water has always been clean and green prior to today. From what I understand, this is likely the oil-water heat exchanger for the transmission oil leaking. I found no signs of water in any of the oils. What are your thoughts on this? What kind of task is removing and replacing the exchanger? If it is the canister behind the engine oil filter, it seems to be pretty accessible. Does all the transmission fluid need to drain for the replacement? I know the radiator will need to be flushed good after the problem is corrected, but any of the other water system components need replacing? Thanks.
I would say if it's a brown color it is transmission cooler, I always like to see the leak tho. I have adapters I have made to block off port on one end and apply regulated air in the other end then put cooler in a bucket of water you'll see air bubbles if she's leaking, have had to warm cooler up a little before to open up leak. Not 100% on your machine but there should be two coolers one will be around engine oil filter and that's for engine oil the other down lower toward rear of engine that is larger that's your transmission cooler. Should just need to drain coolant and shouldn't be enough oil to worry about. After repair I usually put water with a powder soap like cascade and run her to operation temperature then drain, do that as needed maybe twice just depends. Shouldn't hurt anything else. Mike
Also the reason you have oil in coolant is because oil pressure is higher than water pressure.....unless you have major cooler failure it can go both ways, but normally with my experience it is in radiator.
Thanks for the reply. Isn't it an unbolt and bolt up repair? As far as testing, still have to remove it first, correct?
Correct, but being in the equipment repair business I like to find the cause and see it not guess by replacing the part, you still have to remove but if you test it there's no guessing
Aye info is correct, often have to warm the test water up to find the leak; will be going down this exact same road tomorrow with my early D6D. Out of curiosity whats a 5S6807 core worth boys ??? I,ll convert yr $ to my pacific pesos. cheers merv :drinkup
305.90 us dollars new part number should be 4w7188
Hi Nelsonequip; that was very interesting; assume that's the new part no and price from your cat dealer; well down here at the bottom of the world the thieving bastards wanted US $1120 for a reman one and $780 for a classic one; didn,t even bother to price the new one Man with the ghanassi itailian one hasnt got back to me yet. BUT after having look in radiator came to the conclusion that crap in it isn't oil; as is dry not slimy oily crud; that some UBC [think about it] has sabotaged it and filled radiator with mud etc, also fuel tanks been milked; couldn't see any crap in oil filler, but hope it hasn't been filled up. yes was blashphemy of biblical porportions today.So have flushed radiator as best I could, and ran and reflushed it. See how machine goes on Friday. Went to pub to drown sorrows and hope I might get a new years kiss, but only succeded with the first part :drinkup. current biggest worry is that 2013 might have been a real good year and 2014 is going to be a bummer
I like to plumb in water hose and run engine to flush out radiator,over fill with running, hot water the best, the oil comes out the top of radiator alot faster and better that way, when you drain it the oil stays in the core more, hope this helps. I do use detergent,
To test oil coolers for dramas I dont muck about with all that heating up ow't, I just fill the oil side with central heating oil (its what I have) this tends to find a leak faster than my Wife can find notes in my pocket, it also helps with the flushing of them, as for Ghanassi Italian parts they are fairly good items that I dont mind sticking in to tractors, they come in nice box's and at least fit, some parts on the market now dont even bolt in place, sorry to hear the year is ending a bit "Doggo" (Aussi Verb) Merv, it was probably a Female that spiked your tractor. tctractors
Be right there Tony there another breed of animal that seem to dislike me. And had the problem with out of spec bolt holes on one of the brg carrier housings for bevel gear on my D6; with classic cat parts, nice mr dealer man had to swap it for a new genuine cat one :usa
I had many of bad coolers in my experience, just filling with some oil would not expose a leak. Most cooler leaks are very small it would be a pretty big leak to show itself with out a little air pressure....that's just how the coolers have been around Kansas & Missouri :falldownlaugh Mike
Hello d6 merv, Sorry to here somebody has been messing with your iron, that's aftermarket cooler that I carry in stock and your number crossed to 4w7188 as far as my cat dealer :falldownlaugh they don't have much love for us independent shops lol, that's a story for another day ! Mike
Mike, in the U.K. Central heating oil is Parafin/Kera' type fuel it will find a leak without any pressure being placed to it, on the water side of the cooler after filling the oil ports full (On a Bench) with heating oil, I hold a paper towel that soon shows up the duff tube needing the glue treatment, on coolers I try to repair the larger ones due to cost, the small engine oil coolers like on a D6 (3304/6) I usualy fit new as they are low cost items unless I am told to repair them. tctractors p.s. I have never needed to pressurize or heat a cooler to find a knacker, the coolers must be crap in the U.K.??
Got the oil cooler off with little trouble and put on a Cat Classic core. About $335 plus tax and overnight shipping (trying to get it back on through the holidays). Was going to go ahead and replace the engine oil cooler while already there, but they could get the part for a week, so decided not too. Cleaned out the radiator and run water out the top like suggested above. Since oil floats, this was the best method by far. All seems to be well. However, when I picked up antifreeze, when did they start making all the different colors? I'm used to good ol green antifreeze and familiar with the red extended life. Now Cat has purple and red, and auto stories sell a yellow that mixes with all colors, so it says.
Well that's still less than half what my thieving dealer wanted, and were still talking usd too. Any of you fellas from Oz watchin this whats your price please