I normally buy Shell Rotella for my backhoe. I change it religiously on mfg schedule. Oil and filters are cheaper than engine rebuilds. I am going to change the oil in my F150. Other than avoiding Fram, and no name brands, are there any brands that I should stay away from? I did see a online video of a guy who took apart oil filters, and demonstrated that Fram filters sucked big mega moose poop. The Napa Gold filter and the Purolator were best. I typically use Castrol.
I always use the OEM filter but I honestly could care less about the oil brand. As long as it meets whatever designation required its going in.
Speaking of F one fiddles,.... If it’s a three valve Triton 5.4 with the troublesome rattling camshaft timing actuators, unsubstantiated data suggests changing viscosity from 5w-20 to 5w-30 is beneficial. FordTechMakuloco and his YouTube channel beat that horse to death. Ford even hinted around about it in statements to their commercial customers. I switched the Ford 5.4 powered fleet to 5w-30 when I worked for big oil and it made a significant difference in reliability, camshaft rattling & drop in maintenance costs. But, your mileage may vary.
On Ford vehicles I've always used Motorcraft filters, they're readily available even at Walmart and are reasonably priced. If I absolutely can't get Motorcraft I look for Wix and use Wix on just about everything else.
The Motorcraft oil filters have gone up in the last couple months here. Think they're about $16 now, used to buy them from the dealer for about $11. At least I only go through about 3 a year.
Don't use regular Pennzoil or quaker state, terrible oil especially for stop and go. Everything else is great including no name brands as long as you know it's not one of those two. Pick a brand and stay with it don't change brands. Use OEM filters and don't get filters from Amazon. Get oil testing from Blackstone
I bought a case of 12 FL-820S filters a while back on eBay for $48, they're now $60. That's $5/filter and I always have one on hand. Just checked my Walmart app, they're $3.97 there
I just looked online at the local Walmart. $26.31 for a FL-820S. $27.84 for the FL-500S Rediculous.
Challenge you pull valve covers from Pennzoil engine that had regular service and find any gum deposits.
Just unscrew the cap and look at the bottom of it.
If we are smack talking blenders, my advice is to stay away from anything that Warren Oil mixes up. This is just one example. https://topclassactions.com/lawsuit...draulic-fluid-10-85m-class-action-settlement/
Valvoline oils are probably the worst, all of them lose their viscosities when they get hot. Heaps of outfits have lost the shirt off their backs using that crap and have had no financial status to take legal action over the failures.
Yeah I buy probably the same stuff at orschlens under a different name/maker because it's super cheap around $40-$50 a 5 gallon bucket. I have a just a regular gear pump and others have used it so idk. On the bucket it says no OEM application newe than 1980 on it.
I dont think that proves any thing . I never liked pennzoil but have no reason behind it. My Dad used what ever was cheap on sale and never stuck with any one brand he had ok luck. I think oil is like most things you buy if one was way better some every one would find out and start using that brand. Oil filters have gotten smaller and smaller . This may sound crazy to most but i think some day they will stop putting filters on engines because unless you have something go wrong it dosent do alot. I use Rotella in all my old stuff because its one of the last oils that has been proven to work in flat tappet cam engines. I have bought 3 flat tapped engine rigs that were run with regular oils that had cam problems.
I do agree and any oil is better than not changing oil. If you have seen what's on the bottom of a cap and it only comes with those two brands I don't think you would buys those brands either.
I told this before but there was a guy in my small town in the early 70 bought a business out . This guy never went any were much before maybe put 2000 miles on his car a year . He got this business that had some pickups and trucks they were on the road every day sometimes 7 days a week . So he went from having a car that the engine was shot at a low milage to engines that ran 6 times more miles and lasted good. The business had several cases of the brand of oil they used so he kept using it i think it was Havoline. He thought that oil was the best oil there ever was and it may have been but a blind man could see what realy had happen. This same deal happens over and over with alot of people . John Smith buys his used first car and uses brand x oil. The car hasnt had a good life before and the engine dosent last long. Johns next used car they have always used Brand Y oil . That engine was never ran out of water and taken care of . In Johns eyes Brand Y oil is great. I am not saying Brand Y oil is better than Brand X and we will probably never know.
Most all of this--relates to service intervals, have a realistic maintenance program and stick with it. Trying to get every nickle out of oil just isn't worth it.
Don't use unless it's older than 1989 lol.
NAPA has a 20% off sale, and their gold filters are supposed to be very good. I ordered one for $10 or so. I had 5 quarts of Pennzoil left over, so I ordered another 5, and will use that. No sense wasting it.
The NAPA Gold line is a decent, consistent product. Compare individual part numbers to their Platinum line. For an extra bucks or two, you might get a much better filter.
castor oil,,,,, its the sh$ts
Too funny .
So what is the difference between their most expensive and least expensive filters besides price?
The local napa store told it's an extra layer of toilet paper.
No shitt . Bad Bob
I couldn't find any either.
Media type, beta ratio and backflow valve material. Cool thing about NAPA is they make their filter spec sheets easily available. Well, Wix, I know. Very handy resource, nonetheless. https://napafilters.com/
I think the regular napa Filters don't have the glue lines that keep the pletes separate so you don't get the most capacity out of it.
For sure. Who else does spiral roving besides AFCI? BTW, AFCI is the company that manufactures Cat filters.
We've always thrown Motorcraft filters and the orange jug oil at the gas fords.
There is a youtube video that shows someone ripping a bunch of filters apart. The Frams and STPS were garbage. The Wix, Purolators and Napa Golds were much better constructed.
Some of the wild/craziest threads about brands of oil and filters plus service intervals are motorcycle forums. Some change once a year while others over service, causing mayhem to the point of a showdown at noon. It's oil and filters-run what you want change when you want, it's your rig your money. J.G. Wentworth.
Wix makes Napa and Fleetguard. The filtering material is cellulose in all of them. So what is the difference between any of them. I've a lot of crap that the makers say make one better than the other but I don't see much difference in any of them unless they actually block fluid flow.
Check out the videos. It's not subtle.
It’s all so tiresome. I see where Fram is no longer a Honeywell company and is owned by First Brands/TRiCO. The old Wix we loved is now Mahn and Hummel and the filters are being manufactured differently. Same story, closing and consolidating USA based plants to shift production to China, Poland, Ukraine, Mexico. Hard to maintain brand loyalty with this constant change.
Emmett518, That video is old and all those brands have changed ownership, countries of origin and the factories are different. It was a good video, at the time.
Oh’ I see there is no shortage of new oil filter videos on the ewe tube. Coincidentally, I’m home eating lunch after my previous post, turn on the TV and there are oil filter videos all over the YT Home Screen. Obviously, I’m being watched by the YT overlords.
Ok--back to realistic service intervals. Daimler Detroit says on a DD15 for example, we could run oil change intervals from 40 to 50,000 miles on heavy haul {100,000 GVW} and 60 to 65,000 at {80,000 GVW} with oil Sampling. I don't do OIL SAMPLING. Using 10x30 synthetic. Synthetics are good but not that good, and the DD15 is a good engine but not that good. So the average mileage of any trucks we have is 135,000 a year---A total of three full services under their talking point/word salad sales pitch. I set the Max at 30,000 have had zero issues but that oil is about as nasty as it gets, so black and thick with soot the waste oil burner struggles unless I cut it with LSD. Now I do know of some companies that tried the 50 grand oil change intervals, and it ended up costing them 50 grand each, with warranty claims pending for awhile now. I only use OEM filters/cost less than aftermarket. My point is why should I be sampling oil to meet the factory guidelines-If it comes back with a bad report what the hell did we save, nothing. But someone made money doing all these sampling testing/reports. How many barrels of 10x30 synthetic could I buy for 50 grand? No matter what the manufacture says it's nothing more than pandering for a sale. Use common sense and set a service interval that's realistic. I can see sampling for final drives in a Cat otherwise no. Another asinine pandering sales pitch is Cummins overhead adjustment interval for X15. No need according to Cummins to adjust the overheads till---------------------500,000. Well that ain't happening either the 7 we bought a year ago will go in at 175,000 to be checked. Donelson Power Core engine air filters suppose to last a full year running over the road----BS. 7 to 9 months and those are loaded heavy as hell, change it and mileage slightly increases plus the DPF lasts longer.
I think a lot of that is manufacturer's sales pitch for "reduced maintenance intervals" so allegedly you're saving coin in O&O costs but in actual fact it's costing you. It was exactly the same when the "new generation" of Cat engines (as they were at the time) went from the time-honoured since Year Dot 250 hours between engine oil/filter changes to 500 hours. Get an honest sales guy full of beer and they would freely admit it.
[QUOTE https://topclassactions.com/lawsuit...draulic-fluid-10-85m-class-action-settlement/ [/QUOTE] NAPA should have been a defendant in that lawsuit if they knowingly were marketing 303 oil in a bucket that would lead a purchaser to think that they were getting a good quality oil. 303 hydraulic oil should be banned from being offered for sale. A few years ago I sent an email to Warren Oil Co because their 303 oil was being sold near me. I had no intention of buying any of it but I was curious as to what it was because the bucket had no information on it. A vice-president of the company replied to my email and said it was SAE 30wt, and did not meet Case specifications.
Start using brave browser and watch you tube in that. It blocks the ads and the data mining.
I can't believe you don't rest the oil! There are so many things you can prevent with testing like replacing the bearings before a spun bearing.
In the 20 years I've been at this company we've lost two engines. One a N14 with a catastrophic oil pump failure in the first 40,000 miles, covered. The other was recent, DD15 that broke a crank, deemed defective from day one, covered. That's out of 250 plus tractors. The tier 2 Series 60's we ran along with Cat and Cummins had full service intervals of 15,000 with non synthetic 15x40. Series 60's will run 750,000 plus on a original set of main bearings provided services are done on a strict/regular basis. Never lost a Kabota refer engine out of 400 plus trailers. Some with 20,000 plus run hours. What causes engine wear is overshooting services. I caught every Series 60 that was loosing the bull gear, fine particles stuck to the drain plug magnet. If using a oil sample routine makes people comfortable then that's just ok with me.
Exactly!
This oil right here was just possibly the best to ever hit the market. The cans are worth a small fortune to a collector.
Are you certain? I’m more of a Chevron guy when it comes to aviation.
I don't fly-Aero was re-refined used. Good for a fast moving oil burning Pontiac. I remember the Chevron RPM branded oils--cool can.
Do you still have an oil can spout around?
Of course. Never know when cans might come back.
Just like the ones at the gas station--------oops there hasn't been a gas station since the invention of the mini mart.
That old Chevron can is sitting in a World War II era corrugated metal building located on the Yakutat airport operation area. Best I can tell, this old spruce workbench and vice are original. The facility was built by the army and then became a Chevron terminal. The original 1940’s tank farm next door is still in use for Jet A and 100LL. Notice the wooden Chevron oil can crates being used as shelves.
I see there's the Freightliner mechanics friend on the floor--Skill Saw.
I Remember the Texaco had a sloped sheet metal tray out between the pumps. Empty oil cans were laid in it to drain into a jug . Not sure who got that oil with the dust n bugs in it. And i have a can spout to ,just in case.
I just got back to the shop-gone on trouble shooting look see. A friend just towed in a Pete with a C15-said it suddenly started smoking real hard than ran away. Well lets take that turbo intake boot off-I just bet she's done-sure enough. Ran till it started knocking then died. Just inframed, from Wisconsin. He could use some oil with dust and bugs in it.
Tugger2, Me too! I think can spouts will make a comeback. I keep one handy. Never know.
I use mobile 1 full synthetic in my personal vehicles along with Baldwin filters. you are right good oil and a quality filter is cheaper than an engine
I keep a little oil on hand too -
That’s a nice collection.