Heavy Equipment Forums Heavy Equipment Community

old D8-12a cat. runs good but in need of help

rosco1234@5 ยท 2017-04-06 20:59

Just bought this machine.Runs great but I popped the radiator cap and its all dark oil.No signs of antifreeze.I heard the oil cooler can leak.My question is do these old timers even have oil coolers,and if so where are they?In the radiator core or external?There is no anitfreeze in the oil that I see.The macine is in great condition and was purchsed cheap so Im going to fix it as long as its not a cracked a head.I have some oil coming out of one of the seals in the exhaust also.Not looking good but any ideas would be great and the location of that oil cooler if it has one would be appreciated.Thanks in advance,Joe

Replies29
  1. #1Hobbytime2017-04-06 21:37

    I would drain and flush the radiator and refill with water and run the machine for a short time and check the radiator for any oil. for all you know the last owner put some junk in the radiator that looks like oil or oil ended up in there on its own...if you get the same oil after you clean and flush. now you know something isnt right, but usually if oil can get into the radiator, anti freeze can go the other way..this wont cost anything but some time..

  2. #2rosco1234@52017-04-06 21:45

    yes I plan on doing that but I do believe the previous owner knew.The old owner was third genereation heavy equipment business operators,or so he told me.Just want to find out if it has an oil cooler while I flush so I can look at that too.Cant find a service book on the ol girl.

  3. #3Old Magnet2017-04-07 11:49

    They never made a D8-12A. get the actual s/n and post.

  4. #4rosco1234@52017-04-07 12:17

    Sorry.I meant 13 A.ITS 13A3213SP

  5. #5rosco1234@52017-04-07 12:19

    The guy I bought it from put 12a on the reciept and I keep thinking 12A because of his reciept

  6. #6Old Magnet2017-04-07 13:48

    Not to many 13A's built, they are a hold over from the 2U's until the 14A's were ready. 3,703 units built, yours would be a 1955 model. Oil cooler is air cooled type, separate section of the radiator. Don't panic about oil in the coolant yet, some have been know to run oil/kerosene/diesel as coolant. Actually were a good machine at the time. Picture you posted seems to indicate a cared for unit.

  7. #7rosco1234@52017-04-07 20:13

    Really?So even if there was deisel or oil in the coolant it will still run fine and cool fine?Im just using it on my 40 acres to clear so it will only get run an hour or 2 at a time.If this is true that would set my mind at ease.Thanks for the info.And yes very well cared for,not a single leak.I love the power.

  8. #8stars&bars442017-04-07 20:22

    Flush it and refill and run for a couple days. If you crank it up and take the big radiator cap off do any bubbles appear in water?

  9. #9Old Magnet2017-04-07 20:33

    I'm not saying it is ok to have oil in the water. I'm just stating it was an old (non-cat) trick, short-cut or bo-jack alternative to run oil (as in heat transfer fluid) in the cooling system and it apparently worked fine, at least on the older engines. Corrosion of the water jackets and freezing were not an issue. So if you do not see any water in the cooling system, that may be a reason why.

  10. #10rosco1234@52017-04-07 20:55

    I'll do that, and check for bubbles.If bubbles are present what would that mean?And,yes there is no water at all or it mixed in so good it looks, and has, the consistency of a light weight oil.Feels and looks like a 10 40 oil.I dont even care if it does have a leak with oil getting in the antifreeze.It runs so good and i only paid 7,000 for it that i just dont want to harm anything and get the longest life.No pony motor either.It already has the starter system installed.If its going to damage i wont run it and will fix it.But was hoping to run it for what I need.I was wondering if it would harm the system if I can it with the oil and from what you say it really shouldnt so thats a big relief.

  11. #11Old Magnet2017-04-07 21:22

    WoW!!! That is an exceptionally clean old timer. You'll want to take good care of that. The 13a is covered in the 1H, 8R, 2U and 13a Service Reference Book Form #31271-2 The D13000 engine is covered in the 5-3/4" bore Service Reference Book Form #31226-2 Bubbles at the radiator fill neck usually means compression leaks as in cracked head/sometimes the block. Again a mix of oil and water is not good, gums up the system and makes weird sludge plus screws up the heat transfer.

  12. #12rosco1234@52017-04-07 21:40

    Yes.I respect the condition.Almost hate to run it and feel as if I should sell it to a collector before I do damage to it in the woods.So you are telling me any of those publications will cover my 13a.I am a mechanic but by no means a heavy equipment mechanic but I will learn quick.The guy that sold it to me was 70 and running equipment since he was 14 and his father also did heavy equipment.It Has all kinds of power left.I currently have ordered an original user and maintenance guide.When I recieve it I will drain the radiater and start to look at things closer.Your knowledge and time is greatly appreciated along with all others.Very gracious of everyone to take the time out to help strangers.

  13. #13rosco1234@52017-04-07 21:41

    One more thing.I am looking for the winch thats goes on this.I have cash so if anyone knows of one,ill pay freight shipping if need be.

  14. #14CavinJim2017-04-08 00:29

    Very nice machine there, rosco. Sounds like the previous owner might have been old-school. Based what Old Magnet was saying, it might not hurt to talk to the previous owner and just ask if he was running oil in the cooling system. If it was oil leaking into a water-based system, it certainly wouldn't look like straight oil after running and being mixed by the "water" (or in this case--"coolant") pump! Based on what I paid today for coolant from JD for a tractor, it would be cheaper to run oil instead!

  15. #15Welder Dave2017-04-08 01:28

    It would be a good idea to get some oil and coolant samples tested. Having to flush the rad isn't too bad but if coolant got in the oil could mess up the bearings. It looks like a good machine to spend a little on to keep it in top shop.

  16. #16Old Magnet2017-04-08 02:15

    Just so you don't panic, coolant in the oil refers to the engine lube oil system. You don't want water in there. Also keep an eye open for diesel fuel in the engine oil as there is a path for this to happen due to drying up of old o-ring seal.

  17. #17rosco1234@52017-04-08 07:21

    Im thinking i might get the oil tested soon.Ive read that it is a good idea.I know sometimes you wont see the coolant in the oil but the oil is nice and think and i dont se any signs at all of water in the oil.The ol boy that sold it to me would strike me as someone that might have used the old oil trick.He has many machines and this one was prolly just an old bone in his stock.Ill try to get a pick today of whats in the radiator and post it later

  18. #18Old Magnet2017-04-08 14:20

    A picture of what's in the radiator neck isn't going to be useful. Why don't you ask the previous owner as was suggested as to what he used. If oil is used as coolant it would be light viscosity, probably a light hydraulic oil. Nothing inventive about using oil as a coolant in old equipment, just not commonly discussed. If in fact oil is used I'd leave it that way as half the conversion trouble would be to get all the oil or water out.

  19. #19ol'stonebreaker2017-04-08 15:39

    If you run it in the woods you should get some old crusher screen cloth to bolt to the sides and back of the ROPS, which it isn't, to prevent tree limbs from slapping the **** out of you. The ROPS is just to keep the sun and rain off you. Mike

  20. #20ol'stonebreaker2017-04-09 18:01

    Rosco, I'm curious. Does yours have the powershift or a stick transmission. If stick does it have the johnson bar? And I'm not talking about the one behind your fly, LOL!! Mike

  21. #21old-iron-habit2017-04-10 19:17

    I believe all 13As had a stick shift with reverser. They were made from 53 thru 55. I think the first torque convertor that deliberately dripped diesel to cool came a bit later. I believe they may have been the 14A in the D8E built in 55 and 56. They dripped 11 drops per minute if I remember right. The 14A D8F built in 56, 57 an 58 starting with serial number 3861 were a different animal. Or am I confused? if so someone with a better head will straighten me out.

  22. #22Old Magnet2017-04-10 20:57

    The D8 15Axxxx were the ones with the fuel used in the torque converters.

  23. #23ol'stonebreaker2017-04-10 22:41

    I ran 14a's and they were a straight stick with a johnson bar. I was told the 15a had a stick with a torque converter. Mike

  24. #24Old Magnet2017-04-11 01:39

    True, the 15A's had manual transmission, their own oil clutch plus the torque converter.

  25. #25old-iron-habit2017-04-11 22:06

    Thanks for straightening me out. One series off. I seem to do that more often.

  26. #26rosco1234@52017-04-26 21:22

    Yes mike it has a 5 speed transmission with the stick shift.Thanks for theadvice on the netting but the sticks have already got me more than once lol.As for the oil in the radiator it must of just been a little bit because after running it and checking it it was pretty much antifreeze.So I think it was just a liuttle bit that settled to the top from sitting.

  27. #27rosco1234@52017-04-26 21:23

    This 13a didnt come with the winch.I was wondering if anyone knows what winches will fit it so I can start searching for one or if anyone has one for sale.Yes I have a backhoe to install it on the dozer lol

  28. #28Old Magnet2017-04-26 22:14

    Typical use was the Hyster D8L, D8D (both single speed) or the D8L (two Speed)

  29. #29rosco1234@52017-04-26 22:28

    Thank you.That helps.Through my research I thought it was a hyster but wasnt sure what models would fit.Im sure it will be hard to find one but I have to start someplace.