Hey everyone, I’m looking at picking up a truck this year to rent out to the local asphalt company for paving and milling. I will be driving the truck. I don’t have 200k laying around for a new truck. So I am looking at used. I’m looking at 96-2000 Mack rds is there any disadvantages of running an older truck besides the repairs? thanks
Make sure it is reliable, 20 tons of cold asphalt in the bed isn't fun.
Or cheap when the paving company back charges you. Oh yeah - Welcome to the Forums H.D!
Asphalt is really hard on beds, ANY fatigue in the steel will fault crack due to heat, the cracks can become non weldable as the Asphalt Bunker seeps into the cracks and burns when fire up a welder. Most beds around here are insulated to keep the asphalt flowable intensifies the cracking. Bed will need to look like new, no Dips or buckles or slouching spots between crossmembers or will be dealing with hang points, this is not like dumping dry rock. Older the wagon the easier to fail HOWEVER even newer ones are junk from the get go.
lol I’m sure that’s a fun time dealing with that! Around here it’s a mix between older and new trucks thanks for the welcome! Glad to be here
Asphalt actually welds well. I welded dozens of tankers and kettles. Better than rust.
I would buy the cheapest truck I could find if I was hauling asphalt. Maybe that way you could pay for the truck in a shorter time frame and save some money to get a better 1 later.
That’s my idea. Pay cash for something and hopefully run it the season or 2 and then get something better after that. I just feel like a 30k truck is going to be a ticking timebomb
None of it is free. There is some trade off. I wouldn't expect anything well used to be turn key but I saw a really nice usable unit would have made a good tar truth for 14k the other day. Even had good steer tires and looked like it might even pass basic inspection. 13 yard box. Fundamentally working.
I would have a max number in mind but look at trucks first, might find one good enuf for 1/2 that and makes return that much faster. With used spending more doesn't always mean better, might mean newer but the one I look at the other day even had a liveable cab.
Might have to look outside your area too. Sometimes pricing is quite regional, and the sellers may be very proud of the junk near you.
Oh yeah I’m looking all over, between 1 and 1500 miles lol. Lots of junk out there
When I bought a dump truck my main concern was rust in the frame, then the engine model. Asphalt companys can be particular about beds and having an apron and how much the body extends past the frame, so check with local pavers to see what they require.
You are looking at 96 to 2000, those are some of the most reliable trucks out there, some people prefer the mechanical injection pumps in those years to the electronic injectors. If you find an RD686 with an 8LL you have struck gold, they are only going to have 350 horse probably but dont let that discourage you, mack pulls more with torque than horsepower, and will do similar work with 350 horse that another truck will do with 425.
https://maine.craigslist.org/hvo/d/addison-1990-mack-rw713-v8/7254388318.html This is what I would buy, tuck a 3rd axle under there.
The 1998 RB688s- the green one. It says cracked frame and its still $29,900? That's going to take a good salesman.
Each never before experience is another lesson. Youngest son graduated college, made it home when I was at work. He called despondent! He didn't have a job. An hour later he had a job! It was a Davis/Bacon Federally sponsored sewer replacement. He was a truck driver. The 1985? Ford triaxle he drove was equipped with an aluminum dump body. It usually carried asphalt, but this job, it hauled gravel. The body was 30 years old. Numerous stress cracks had been "blown over" with a spool gun. Zack offered his boss a better way. He brought it home for a weekend. There were too many cracks to fill on a Sunday. I fixed the worst. Wax a grinder disk, drool wax into the crack. Grind it out where you can get in there. Then cleaning with acetone, & repeated grinding with clean discs. It was ready to TIG. I was surprised how well the asphalt contaminated aluminum cleaned up to TIG. Steel is easier still. Steel cracks, you can use arc gouging to open up. You'll look like you have Measles after, but it goes quickly.
Funny that dealer is actually 30 min away from me, I’ve looked at both those trucks... rough is all I can say
Anyone here located in Ne ma,ri,ct,nh? Got some questions for you
Best advice I was given on paving trucks is put a scuttle door in the tailgate, you can make your hourly wage with the engine off and no tires spinning while they hand work with a wheel borrow. Also some tailgate locks are recommended. And yes I am from NH
Nice to see a local person on here! What do you/your company do for the other 6 or so months out of the year? I’m looking to get started myself here with a truck but not sure how realistic I’m being. On paper it looks like you can make some good money, but in reality, I have no idea. Dumb question but what exactly is a scuttle door? I think I may be confusing it with something else
Here in VT most towns have a highway through, but typically have 90 to 150 miles of town roads. Manchester, Dorset & Woodstock have all paved town roads. Some towns have 100 miles of town roads not paved. Tinmouth is an amazing town! It has more than most in miles of gravel road. I can drive easily on ALL Tinmouth road. I once asked the road commissioner. His answer: "I can fill every pothole in town before noon. If I graded a road, there would be new potholed by noon next day." Spot repair is more cost effective than repaving. Meanwhile, you are piling up a few miles, not thousands. Answering your question, a scuttle door is a 12" square hole, often three across the tailgate for crushed stone pothole filling, Or one larger18" for asphalt patch. Shovel the material into the pothole.
I thought that’s what it was. Just wasn’t exactly %100 sure.
I drove Between Montgomery Vt and Hardwick Vt the other day, probably went 20 miles in 4wd, the nice part about winter is it smooths out those potholes.
Could someone that’s somewhat local pm me? I have a budget put together and would like someone to look at it and see if it’s realistic or not.
Winter: Work At a ski area Drive Oil Truck If you have finances worked out well you take the winter off and repair truck.
Ideally taking the winter off would be nice, but I doubt it ever works out that way. Do you own or work for a company?
Got the haulers “contract” today and I’ve got a bit of investigating I’ve got to do on some things in the contract that I just don’t know enough about it what the exact rules are for them. All that’s left is to find a truck and get it ready just in time for the start of the season which is approaching fast.