Hey all, I am new to the forum and this loader. May sound stupid but is it a Michigan 175 or L75? series 2 or 3? A, B or C? :Banghead thanks everyone! adworld
It's a 175,an old one too.Most likely sporting a Detroit.Looks to be in pretty good shape.Ron G
Thank you ron! She has a Detroit in her, 6cyl, I think its the v6-71? Shound about right? Reason I am asking is I can't for the life of me find the drain plug on the oil pan. Not sure if I am just blind or what?
There are a lot of guys on here that can answer your question but I am not one of them.I was born in Eastbrook in 1941.Good luck with it.Ron G
Anyone know where the oil drain for this 175 is located?
To tell what series Detroit it is, take a look at the valve covers. If the hold down screws are around the lip of the valve covers it is a 53 series motor. ie 6-53 if it is a V6. if it has large knob hold down fasteners thru the top of the valve covers it will be a 71 series or 6V-71. RPM and HP vary quite a bit between the 53 and 71 series. Both great engines.
Some of the early Michigans had a remote drain, look for a hose in the bottom or low in the side of the oil pan, follow it to th e drain plug. Second thing to know is that the convertor has a wet sump, but if you or someone replaces the convertor, factory sets it up for dry sump, you have to take the inspection plate off and remove a 1/4" pipe plug to allow the wet sump to vent. That machine is a 175 series III. The next model went to articulated steering it was 175 articulated.
I have done many an oil change and didn't see anything by the pan I'll look again. Here is a pic of the valve cover
The articulated 175 had a 318 (8V71) in them,I never saw a 6V71 in one.That straight frame 175 could have had anything in it,I can't remember back that far.Not that it applies here but I used to run a 275 that has a 335 Cummins in it.Ron G
That is a 71 series. Looks like a 6V-71 in the picture.
We always adapted the drain on the ugly ones to a hydraulic hose and routed it to where we could easily catch the oil. Used a ball valve and also a plug for safety on the end of the hose. I have never seen a Detroit without a pan plug.
There has to be one, i'll check again tomm.
Yep usually there are at lest four plugs in the pans. one on each side and a couple more in the bottom. Should be easy to find will be at the lowest point. Like others have said there may be a hose connected running out to some easier point to catch the oil. Just follow any lines connected to the pan and you should see the one to use. As nasty dirty that one looks if the plugs are the type you use an Allen wrench to remove might need to get busy with a wire brush to see them. Looks like that poor engine has been wet stacking bad from the goop on the exhaust manifold and frame below it.
175 III had 3 choices, 6/71 gm, v-785-c cummins, c6-nfr rolls royce
Its def a Detroit that I do kno . Lol
So long story short. The plug head somehow got shiered off and was covered in googoo. So I don't see it possible to get it out tried for 2 hours. There a way to suck fromvthe dipstick possibly?
Are you sure there isn't another plug somewhere on that pan? Very common for a Detroit to have two or more as that engine might be used in 100 different applications. Also have you dug around real good to be sure the plug is not one that needs a hex (ALLEN) wrench to take it out? I guess it might be possible to go down through the oil filler neck with a hose and suck the oil out, but you are still going to want to get the plug out so you don't have to go through this BS next time. Worst case is there room to drop the pan with the oil in it? Then you can turn it over and work on drilling out the supposed damaged plug. PS: Just so you know that 6V-71 wants to have the correct 40 weight oil. I'm sure someone will chime in on that soon. As I recall Delo 1240 among others meets the speck's.
I brushed the entire pan, there is only that one plug location. and the head it been snapped off. So I think my only option is to suck the oil out of the dipstick tube so i am not dealing w the weight of 5gal of oil and then drop the pan to get the bolt out. The previous owner put in 15-40w oil for some reason so I got some Rotell 40w that I was going to put in there but you are saying go with Delo? adworld
Not familiar with the Rotell 40w. Check to see if it meets the standards listed in this page:
Sorry forgot the (a) Rotella http://www.shell.com/rotella/products/t1.html Adworld
Thank you for the "A".I think I would just bore a hole in the pan,plugging it with a fitting would be easy once you had it off.I didn't say that did I?LOL.Ron G
Once you get her all serviced up with proper oil etc, please run the bag off that jimmy, she's slobberin' somethin' fierce
You're gonna have to excuse my ignorance but HUH? :cool2
I think what GregsHD was trying to tell you is once you have fresh oil in that engine put the machine to work and work it hard. Like I said it looks like it has been run too cold and the mess coming out the exhaust is a good sign of that! Might be a good idea to check the thermostats and their seals to be sure it is getting up to a good working temperature. And even if the water temperature is right up to 170-180ºF and it is not working hard it will still slobber like that. You need to remember that these two stroke Detroits with blowers pump the same amount of air through the cylinders at say 1800 rpm under full load and no load. This causes the cylinders to cool down too much and causes the slobbering, plus gums up rings valves and so on! Now on a turboed 4 stroke engine you can still get some slobber but the turbos air flow is directly related to the load on the engine. So at light loads there is less air to cool things down then when full load causes the turbo boost to go up pushing more air it is off-set by the added fuel and therefore cylinder heat. So to sum it up like Greg said" "Once you get her all serviced up with proper oil etc, please run the bag off that jimmy, she's slobberin' somethin' fierce" Or as the old truck drivers would say when you drove a truck with a Jimmy in it. The first thing you should do in the morning is slam you finger in the door when getting in the truck. Then beat the crap out of that engine the rest of the day to get even.
Adworld,where are you from in Maine,my home state?Ron G
Just my 2 cents, put a 5 gal pail under it, drill a hole through the old plug, let the oil run out. All the weight will be gone, pull the pan & fix it.
Thanks for explaining my post! :drinkup I learned this on the first Detroit I rebuilt (4-71 in a small loader). I was around 18, had only rebuilt 2 diesel engines prior (a Mack E6 and a 3208 Cat) so still a lot to learn and a bit concerned something might fly out of the block for no reason when I put the fuel too it lol! The boss at the shop told me to stick the bucket in a pile, put it in high gear, put the brakes on full, and push the throttle through the floor boards. I couldn't make myself put the throttle past 3/4 until the boss came over, reamed me out and told me she'll be an oil burner if you don't do what I say! Then he walked away shaking his head. So after that I jammed the throttle down hard not caring if it exploded and after 15mins the exhaust burned clean and sounded happier. To this day that little 4-71 burns clean and uses no oil (for a Detroit).
And if you have a Detroit that has to be run at partial load for extended amount of time, like a genset only using 1/3 the available output, I have been told the trick there is to pull off the exhaust manifold(s) and make up a thin plate(1/8 inch steel?) with several maybe 3/8 inch holes for each port. Guess it is something of an experiment thing to find the correct number. The idea being to cut back on the amount of cooling air going through the cylinders. First heard of this many many years back when another plant got a new IR Drill rig mounted on a Crane Carrier chassis with a 6V-53 Detroit. This truck never got out on the highway and only moved in lower gears very short distances around the quarry. That had exhaust that looked just like those in this loader. I believe the mechanic there was told about this from the Detroit dealer and from what I was told it seemed to cure the problem.
thank you all for the replies. Mike you read my mind, I drilled with a tap and die bit though where the current plug is, using a bit about 1/2 the size of the current plug. went slow and wiped away as much metal as possible till i struck oil. Then I let the flow (hopefully) remove what was left of the metal from drilling. Using the tap bit allowed me to make a hole, drain the pan and now I have a new bolt that acts as my drain plug from this point forward. Dropping the pan, while i should at some point, woulda been more time invested than just drilling a new drain hole, was already annoyed enough, lol. As far as the slobber, it is only on the one side, the other side is dry as a bone, which leads me to believe that oil is sneaking by the piston or valves on that slobbered side, possibly from neglect or wear. This seems like a logical assumption, yes, no? Ron I am in Gorham, where you from? adworld
oh and I'll post some pics later to show my issue, fix, and the tar that came outa that engine.
I was born and raised in Eastbrook,down in Hancock county,one of 19 kids.Sounds like you got a grip on your repair job.Good luck with it.Ron G
Guys its a Detroit! Add large volumes of oil daily and change oil filter once in a while! No drain Plug needed they self change. If it stops leaking you better get some oil in it quick as its about out!