Hello: I got a 2020 Hitachi ZX trackhoe in a trade to cover a partial debt. I want to sell it and want to make sure the gear oil in the drive motors is clean and full. The trouble is, there are 3 circular plugs that are opened using a small Allen wrench and i can't get them to budge. i cleaned around the plug and sprayed several times with Blast penetrating oil, even heated one up with my Map gas torch (about 1 minute), tried cutting a small notch on the side and hammering with a chisel but these babies will not break loose. Has anybody else had a problem with these? Sure could use any pointers. i had another excavator where i had to replace the drive motor since the oil had leaked out over the years and destroyed the inside and i remember i had the same problem breaking them loose but these are not cooperating..
Yes these plugs often get really tight, particularly when previous owners never bother to change the oil--or don't use anti-seize when done. Steady pressure with a good quality Allen socket while tapping with a 3 pound hammer usually works for me, and then some anti-seize (I have been using Nickel anti -seize for a while now on everything).
I usually take a drift close to the same size as the plug and give the plug a couple decent blows with a 3 or 4 lb hammer. Most cases the shock of that loosens them up.
Thanks for the replies. On the other machine they were so tight the Allen wrench would just bend or strip. I was planning on heating again but with the deep heat sink, i don't think Map gas would do, needs the ac/oxy weld cutting torch. It would help if the Allen size was twice as big as what they made the plugs with. I will try the big drift with my 3 lb hammer and my last resort will be as Marvin mentioned, going to weld a 1/2"nut on the plug and use a big Crescent wrench with cheater bar. I also have a big hammer drill that i can just hold tight against then plug and hammer away for a minute,
What size of machine? I know on our Deere 5 ton, the Allen bolt size is pretty tiny (6mm?) I was working in the bush and had limited tooling; I bent or destroyed a couple of Allen wrenches (didn't have proper sockets handy). You are right it would be nice if they used a larger gauge! On our 210, the Allen bolts are 10mm and it seems in this case a good quality socket will allow a good amount of removal force. Our larger Hitachi's also used 10mm and never had issues with those.
Was told that using impact sockets or Allen keys on a breaker bar is a no no, they are to soft and easily deform. Use the proper type of tool for the job. Just sayn
Yes, but sometimes the "right tool" which in this case is the small Allen wrench needed to fit in the small 6mm Allen hole is the right tool but if the plug is frozen so tight , the wrench bends without even using a cheater bar so you have to improvise as the mechanics above have stated how in real life what it takes to break those plugs free.
Sometimes in a fit of frustration, I will destroy a Torx bit and hammer it into the buggered up Allen plug. That usually works, as it knows I mean business! lol
More often than not I've had more success using a hammer on an Allen key than a cheater, figure that shock helps loosen it a whisker then use a bar.
Yes, I was working out in the bush with limited tools, and without proper sockets I ended up bending or ruining a couple of Allen keys trying to get it loose.
I finally triumphed over the seized drain plugs. Using a little bit of all suggestions here is how I broke them loose. 1) First, got a large bolt close to the size of the plug and with a 3 lb hammer pounded on them with total disrespect. 2) Got my map torch and heated around the plug in a circular motion for 2 minutes. 3) Repeated step 1 4) drilled a small hole with 1/8" drill bit at 12 and 6 o'clock position, going in about 1mm straight, then using that hole as a step came in at a 45 degree angle going in 2 mm, using a needle punch and a 16 oz hammer started pounding on the punch at top and bottom positions and that sucker finally cried "Uncle". I only did the center plugs and using a flex bottle inserted nozzle into the hole and squeezed in about 1 cup of gear oil till it oozed out the hole . So it was low and good thing I did that before the gears froze up and grenaded. I learned the hard way on my other machine when that happened and cost me $2500 for a new rebuilt motor out of Texas. Now i need some tips on a leaking arm cylinder. Some clown was careless while demolishing something and the cylinder shaft has some deep scars on it and that ruined the seal so it is leaking. It is about 4" in diameter and 4' long so would cost thousands to replace and wondering if anyway i could have the shaft rechromed? I have the tools to take the head off and remove it since I rebuilt a cylinder on my skid steer. Anybody know if these rods can be repaired to get the gouges filled in or do I need to buy a new rod? thanks
First thing to do is make sure the rod is straight. Without pictures of the gouges, it's possible the ram has taken a hit. Rod can be purchased and engineered to work the same as the original. The cost of this should also be looked at if rechroming isn't an option.
If you know someone that TIG weld well, you can tig weld gouges up quite well and not even sand the weld after. It took a little bit of practice but I can do it with confidence and a near perfect steady rest.