Hey guys, I am having a hard time deciding here. I have an open quote for all new parts for the undercarriage (ITR). I don't really want to mix any old worn out rolling parts with the new chains. But I am on the fence when it comes to the pads. It will be roughly 5400 for new pads already assembled to the chains. I figure it will save me a ton of back breaking labor and time, but my pads aren't totally gone. However there are quite a few loose bolts and shifty pads. So I would imagine the holes are slightly oblong and will be more likely to loosen up again. Thanks for any input from guys who have done this job before, (I haven't).
I doubt the grousers are worn, more like the bolts are stepped. Won't know till you remove a few. Do you tram more than dig? I've got customers on 160s through 700s still on first set beyond 10k. You sure you don't just need idlers? Plus, if you can afford the downtime, why not have yours rebushed? My sales guys push ITR as replacement components but for a Volvo, those things really hold up. 5400 for both chains, grousers and all, doesn't sound all that terrible to me. I'm in the Chicago market though, everything is super expensive here.
I bought the machine used, hour meter read 5800 hrs. I removed the seat and broke the hour meter, I THINK, although it could have been broken previously. So hours are kind of a question mark. Either the previous owner did a lot of blade work, or the hours are wrong.... Most of my issues are from the chain, it seems like there are a few stiff links and some dry. They just make a ton of noise. The sprockets are also very sharp. I have to cut in a long driveway at my house and I don't really want to make too many enemies as there will be a fair amount of ground to cover. 5400 is the additional cost for JUST the grousers and labor to have them bolted to the chains. And just making sure, you mean the ITR parts hold up well on Volvos? Or Volvo undercarriages hold up well in general?
I am sure the current tracks would last for hundreds or thousands of hours longer. But they just drive me nuts, day one my neighbor came over commenting on how I need to "oil that thing". Im probably being a little wasteful here. But Im also an over maintainer.
Well that changes things drastically. I'd oil the chains and work em free. Everyone always wants to know what to do with waste oil, well there you go. You got a blade on yours, sweet. That's a slick combo.
Thank you, it's a fairly well kept machine. Will the oil work it's way in? I figured the links were sealed so I never even tried.
Worked for me in the past. It's better and cheaper than unnecessary chains
Blade and thumb, sweet
I've not been impressed with the ITR track groups I put on my machine. But, it's a much smaller machine than yours. The carrier rollers stick and I have to free them up with large channel lock pliers each day before I use the machine, even when they're perfectly clean. I think the seals are cheap and that's where the sticking comes from.
Ughhh. There are mixed reviews on aftermarket track parts. On the Internet and off. I would have them warranty that! Their warranty sounds solid from what I've read.
Add me to the not so happy with ITR rails either. Replaced the rails a few years ago on our 321DL and probably put less than 1500 - 2000 hrs on it since then and there are 2 segments on the track link on the left side where the bushings are wallowed out. Looks just like maters video above.
I decided to transfer the pads and save the money. Rented a tow behind compressor to run a 1 inch impact, snapped all the bolts. The rails were far worse than I realized. What causes this to happen?
Pads should be installed with the torque turn method not just with an impact as tight as you can get them. They aren't the most critical but the torque on them is.
Dave, I haven't installed the new parts yet. Can you tell me what torque and how far to turn? I was planning on torquing to 300-330 only because that's what the service manual says I believe.
I don't know for your specific machine but the undercarriage supplier should. Cat has the torque listed in their undercarriage guide for different sized track bolts. I paid an extra few hundred dollars to have the pads installed on the track press. It has an electric torque wrench and they make a mark and usually turn the bolts an extra 30 deg's. Some bolts may turn more after initial torque.
Life, life is what causes this to happen. They run in dirt and crud and grit, it gets in there and once it gets started, it will wallow out anything. I put loaded ITR tracks on the JD 120 and so far I am happy. The old tracks were like slinkys, side to side.
Well I'm not happy with the ITR's we put on our 321. From my post above 2 links are wore slap out just like maters video, however the rest of the bushings are still smooth. Just poor quality control IMO. I won't be buying another set.
Maybe a couple bushings got missed in the heat treatment or something??
If you had more than one machine or could have afforded the downtime, I would have suggested having the bushings turned or replaced. That's really all that goes bad. It's not like the links actually stretch. Sand and silt are big deals when it comes to tracks. You've gotta slacken the chains when you're in that stuff to extend the life. Your ops manual will tell you what your slack should be, usually between 10½ and 12" if I remember correctly.
I'd swap the pads onto new rails. A motivated twosome could knock that job out in a day, day and a half.
I guess I was just wondering what causes the bushing to explode like so many of mine are. But I guess they were just at the very end of their life. A little too much slop in the sprocket, a strategically placed rock right? Swapping the bushings and pins would make sense if the chains were a little more expensive. At 1500 a piece, I can't imagine replacing parts would end up being much cheaper due to the labor. I could be wrong? And yes I decided to save the 5400 and swap the pads. Alone, with a one inch gun, a torch and a small pry bar It was less than a full day job to yank the pads. I made one socket last the entire job too!
Sand blaster comes next weekend. Then I'm going to roll on some PPG amerlock 2.
You're doing all the bottom rollers too. Good for you, not cutting critical corners. That ought to give you a good long life as long as you don't let her set up.
Yes, rollers and the idlers. I hate doing things twice lol. Yanking that idler, do you think if I pull the blade up I'll be able to slide it out with the tensioner in one piece? Or will I have to pull have way and unbolt the tensioner? I ran out of steam and haven't tried.
I would assume that the new chains are painted. Make sure that you remove all traces of paint from the top surface of the links where the shoes sit otherwise you will be permanently plagued afterwards by loosenig hardware.
Nige, yes I bought a pile of flap discs and wire wheels. I figured I'd mount the chains then buzz the paint off of the tops so I'm not doing it on my knees. Wire wheel and smooth out the back of the pads too.
If memory serves, that whole assembly should slide right on outta there. Just be mindful when bolting up your new idler to clock the zirk on the tensioner where you want it. I've seen guys, in a hurry, slap it in , seat it, pull the chain together and pin it only to find the zirk is 180° out from where she needs to be. Looks like you're being diligent every step of the way. Nice job.
Thank you! I did a fair amount of research on this site before I started to minimize screw ups.
Have you been able to come up with a tightening specification for the track shoe hardware yet.? If not, what diameter/length are the bolts.? I can problably find something that will work.
FWF, you are the first one I've seen on here that has suggested investing anything in fixing excavator rails. At $1400 per rail, I just put new ITR on our 210 last winter. It is a little early to tell, only about 500 hours on them, but the machine rides a little rough. I replaced everything except the top rollers. Idler slides were worn a little, but not terrible. When I say it rides rough, it's like a washboard effect. It's the worst on a hard surface, never really goes away in a soft field. Only tightened the rails once in 500 hours so they seem to be wearing ok.
I just remember when chinesium wasn't the answer to everything. We had a local shop down in Lowell. Hardings was the name. Best place in the midwest for all things undercarriage. They were competitive with new vs rebuilt. I'd rather invest in a man's labor than support a country that hates me. It's one thing if you're in a sand pit changing tracks n idlers every year or so, but if you're making the investment in 'you're equipment, don't you want the best value for dollar? Maybe I'm just too damned old.
I wouldn't even know where to start looking for a track shop anymore for something that's not Cat.
@RTS8809 this should help, for some reason the diagram of which to tighten in order is missing