I'm wondering how people park their backhoe for the winter time. I don't have a indoor area for my machine. This is the first year I've owned it and I was told to try and park the unit with most of the hydraulic cylinders sheathed. Do people utilize blankets to cover up sensitive parts? Should I just park it in travel mode or instead how I have it in these photos for the backhoe arm.
spray some oil on the exposed parts of the hydraulic rams to prevent corrosion
Personally, leave it in Park mode. If do anything with extended cylinders, grease the chromed rams. Grease will deteriorate over time but will not draw moisture. In Travel Locks if does not start or have other issues come spring is easier to reposition for better access to tractor components. Situating the loader arms on home built safety blocks in a semi Up position on the cylinders just in case need to access the engine, fuel filter, starter, is another consideration.
I spray Fluid Film on exposed cyl rods and then wipe it off before next use. Better than oil and not as messy as grease. Also easier to apply
Fluid film works great.
As stated above.. Might I add:: Tarp the engine. COVER THE EXHAUST.!!! Add some treatment to the fuel and let it circulate into the injection pump and injectors before shutting down.. Add coolant to radiator and circulate before shutting down.
Had not used Fluid Film, did not realize existed.
While parking the machine for extended times, position the buckets to shed rainwater. Standing water will rust out the bucket bottom.
2nd mention on covering the exhaust. If it is really cold and you are not going to start it all winter, then I would be tempted to bring the batteries into the shop and servicing them, and leaving them in the warm. It's a hassle but then there is no drama come spring and batteries that get run down and then charged tend to die a premature death.
As given park in trans port position, cover exhaust, I sure wouldn't bother putting anything on the rams I've never seen a rusty one, an option to removing the battery's is either a trickle charger or hook them to a charger every mon. or so to maintain a good charge in them.
I like pulling them out every once and a while because corrosion happens. They keep working really well while the battery box is rotting away
Why would you tarp the engine? I would be more likely to open the covers sos not to create a warm environment for rodents. I don't do either with mine but it parks in a open front barn, gets used periodically, and has a cat to protect it.
When it's your plow, and you have it in the barn that's the bomb!
Lots of great advice so far. Another suggestion is to park the tires on wood or masonry, less they sink and freeze in the mud. Maybe that’s not a concern in your location. How’s the rodent situation?
If it's been run regularly and up to date, remove the ground cable from the battery and walk away, if the batteries are dead in the spring then they weren't going to live anyway. Nothing wrong with charging before starting so you don't stress a discharged battery. Even if you're going to charge them every month, or every other month, remove the ground cable. Even a new alternator leaks some current.
I've owned my Case 580 SK for about 20 years and bought it used; it's a 1996, I think. It's been outdoors in all weather for all those years (in Alaska). I put it in travel mode (hoe locked upright), place the loader bucket on the ground on edge, close the cab door, and that's it. I never cleaned or oiled the chrome rams and they look like brand new. Also, the chrome on the bumpers of my 1974 Chevy pickup is still clean and shiny, and I never touch it either.
Any cylinders that have worn wipers, when pointing up to the sky, will introduce rain water into the hydraulic system.
Would it be true that if there is no fluid leak (rod seals are good) then water will not enter cylinders? Just a question.
Batteries self-discharge much slower in cold too I believe. I'd leave them there too. Maybe throw the trickle charger on them once or twice during the winter to keep them charged up so they don't freeze.
Really depends on your area which isn't mentioned, but regardless, in my opinion the most important thing for a machine in long term season storage is to make sure the fuel tank is completely full of fuel to minimize condensation. As for the machine, machines are designed to be out in the weather, covering them with tarps or a blanket over the engine will only either trap moisture or invite rodents to make a new home. The batteries, leave them installed, use them to start the machine at least once a week and let it run and warm up for at least 30 minutes to charge the batteries and let components get up to temperature. This slings fresh oil throughout the engine internals as well as the transmission, also makes a warm oil fog to coat the inside upper steel of the hydraulic reservoir. You could also drive it a bit and cycle the hydraulic components to keep them limber if you wish, no harm there, but just don't put it out to pasture doing long term storage.
Like willie says there is no way if i was there with it all winter that i would not start it and drive it a little 2 times a month or so. I want to down size i dont have or want to take care of every thing i have.
Yes, how many of these old backhoe's have been found sitting in a field for 20 years, clean a few things up and get it started and besides a few hose or cylinder leaks, run just like they did when they were left sitting.
I guess you have to ask yourself, " do I feel lucky".
Water is not going to get past an intact seal. There's no pressure, and a slight film of oil to repel it. Luck has nothing to do with it. My opinion, and my hoe sits out 24/7 for the last 13 years. Cyl shafts look like new & no water in the hydraulics. Joe H
Two pages in, I wonder if her backhoe ever got parked? We are still talking about it on a Sunday evening and She’s moved on with her life. Lol.
I got the machine set up in travel mode as suggested. No tarps, no chemicals, just parked so water does not sit on the machine. I'm in NY Hudson Valley. So far winter has been mild. I start it when it is warm outside on the weekends. My battery has a disconnect switch so that is handy. Appreciate this forum, it helped me immensely with a reverser solenoid problem. Merry Christmas.
Asking the general pop here... Is the battery disconnect an effective way to really stop any/most battery drain? Do people switch that off when not using the machine?
Main battery disconnects decrease it to as low as possible without removing the batteries. Still need to start and run the machines periodically to freshen up a battery charge as they lose charge just sitting.
Yes, a battery disconnect will stop all outside battery drain. Any battery will lose charge over time even not hooked up, this is much higher in summer temps than winter temps (per JD manual). Many older machines will not leak current and can be left over winter and start fine in the spring. On older stuff, the alternator is the biggest potential leak, I think it's six diodes make up the rectifier in every alternator, any one of those that starts to leak can drain a battery over a week or overnight even, bad leaks could start a fire. So a battery disconnect or removing the ground cable is a good policy, as is charging before starting in the spring, or every couple months over winter, or even keeping a maintainer on every battery.
Thanks guys, good to know!
Any corrosion at the battery terminal or hold down hardware indicates a drainage path. Besides the obvious damage, it will drain a battery that is on a disconnect switch. Way back up thread I mentioned pulling the batteries if it was easy and that was to insure that the proper maintenance gets done. ( heads out to clean the truck terminals and cables )
My brother has an 09 Ford Fusion that always has a massive amount of corrosion on his negative(?) battery cable. What is the general cause of this? I've cleaned it several times, 3 times this year alone while helping him work on the car and it keeps coming back rather quickly. I've had many vehicles in my life, but never seen one do this to the extent his car does. Any thoughts? Its his daily driver also.
couple of thoughts. not as good a connection as possible. hold downs are metal and provide a nearby path? I cut to fresh lead if that is what the cable end is, same with post, tighten and then seal with one of the sprays.
A tiny crack around the post will allow gases to escape here ratger than at the vent, thus promoting terminal corrosion.
Does it show back up if you slather a bunch of vaseline on it?
Have not tried that
Those little red and green felt washers are effective. Seem like quite a gimmick, but they work whatever they are.
A battery maintainer is a good investment. Leave it plugged in all winter and the battery will not drain or deteriorate from sitting. A maintainer really extends the service life of the batteries. Not to be confused with a trickle charger.
I use a maintainer on my Harley, but only periodically as did manage to cook off the electrolyte one winter leaving it on full time. Smaller batteries are slightly more troublesome than large volume electrolyte units. I run a charger occasionally if not using or starting a machine over winter. Low 2A for few hours freshens one nicely. IIRC my bike maintainer is only rated 1.5a.
I was surprised by my motorcycle battery. I think I bought it around this time about 2 years ago, rode the bike once and it's been sitting in the barn since. I went to clear out the barn for the flooring job and she fired right up.
Another good purpose for a battery disconnect is security. If you can hide it or put it inside a locking box. My case key fits all case equipment, and I found out it fits Bobcat equipment also. John Deere takes different key, but I think it fits most John Deere equipment.
Like was said you have a minor crack around that area. Clean it up and then put a smear of silicone around the bottom of the post on the plastic and on any cracks you see should help it.