The serpentine belt on my PC160LC7-EO broke. I ordered a new, original Cummins same part number belt and have spent the past several hours trying to get it on. I've rotated the idler as far as I can but cannot get the belt over the crankshaft, alternator, water pump (smooth side) and idler -- it's like the belt is several inches too short. I physically compared the length of the original belt (worked for years) to the new belt and they are almost identical in length. Am I missing something? Is there a trick? Does something need to be loosened to get the belt on? 10 minute job has turned into multiple days -- very frustrating. Thank you!
It’s quite easy to get the routing off and therefore end up too short or long. I’ve had the same issue a time or two. Does it still have the sticker showing the proper route? Some machines if you don’t get it on the correct side of the tensioner when you start it doesn’t come out right. It can be a frustrating ordeal.
Thanks very much for the help! There is no routing sticker, and googling has not turned up a copy. I've tried as many different routes as I can figure out, but none have worked. I see that the water pumps wheel is smooth, where all other wheels are grooved, so that limits (I think) how many variations for routing there can be. Could you explain what you mean by the "correct side of the tensioner?" Thanks!
Some of our Cat machines are a chore. If you don’t start with it a certain way it won’t go. I guess the best way to explain it is if you don’t slip behind it as the first step, then pull the tensioner all the way before you begin to route the belt you’ll never get it over all the pulleys. Another thought....most tensioners I’ve been around have a peg that indexes it in the block or wherever it goes. I wonder if by chance it’s moved somehow and has made the route a little longer so to speak. I’ve also had the pesky buggers catch on a bolt head or not be all the way in a grooved pulley and be just a fudge short. Can the dealer supply a routing pic? Or Cummins by S/N?
Junkyard posted while I was typing. So, I deleted my comment.
Thanks![/QUOTE] Good suggestion. But, I don't know how to check if the tensioner has moved.
Using the komatsu pic as an example remove bolt #1 and see if everything looks like it should. Round peg in round hole. Also, was belt just wore out or do you have an accessory, idler or tensioner pulley that’s bad causing the belt to fail?
Thank you very much, but that does not appear to be the engine in the PC160LC-7EO I believe it is a Cummins SAA4D102E-2E-4 engine Komatsu engine SN is 26519774 The Komatsu part is 6732-81-3440 This is all gleaned from the Internet. What I can't find is a definitive routing diagram or instructions on how to install the belt. Does anyone have access to the routing diagram or instructions/hints/tips/tricks on how to get it installed? Thank you!
Late yesterday afternoon I gave it another try, after digesting everyone's help. This time, we got a pipe to put on the end of the breaker bar to make it easier to get the full idler extension and hold it there comfortably. While idler extended (open?), we put the belt on everywhere and left the alternator for last (highest and therefore easiest to reach of all the wheels), and was able to get it on. Thank you all so much -- you're all wonderfully knowledgeable, experienced and generous.
If at first you don’t succeed....get a bigger tool. Glad you got it figured out.
LOL -- exactly! Good thing I know not to throw anything out (and to keep at least one of everything because I will need someday).
Just a suggestion. Now that it is on first thing I would do is take a couple pictures if access is available and make a detailed sketch of the routing with notes on how you did it. Then make a few copies to put in parts book, service manual and scan in to save to your computer and maybe even upload to this thread for the next person who maybe reading this!
For the paranoid among, it is uncommon, but has happened, that when a serpentine belt breaks, the sudden "snapping" action at the tensioner causes internal spring damage, leading to replacement belt premature failure.
And draw the belt routing on the machine with a permanent marker.
Never had to deal with a serp belt on anything other than a Ford pick-up but that is a good idea, I often used a permanent marker to mark hose routing and wiring connections. A quick wipe down with brake clean and it is surprising how long those hold up. Now if one wanted to get fancy a quick spray with clear coat from a spray can would add life to those "Notes"!
Is your belt routing the same I posted above?