I have a 1998 komatsu excavator model PC200-6 Serial no. C10614. I dont have any power going to ignition switch, but have power to the #2 fuse, ive tested the wires on switch , and nothing, but if i put my clamp from my test light on any of the post on ignition switch, and touch it to the #2 fuse,it light up, what cld b the problem, and i like to know about the revolving frame that the wire schematics show.
Have you cleaned up all the connections in the battery box. There is a positive disconnect there and I believe maybe some fuses. Do you know how to check the positive disconnect with a DVOM. I will have a look for a schematic I may have on paper, Simon C
Found full schematics. On front side of Battery Box is Plug M11 that has a built in fusible link that is attached to the battery box solenoid positive battery connection. Power goes from the fusible link to the Fuse Box #14 Fuse to Battery terminal of Key switch. Check this out on your machine to see if you have power to the fusible link. My schematic was a bit higher serial number than yours, but guessing it is still the same wiring. Simon C
Sorry bout the delay, ive been busy, ive replaced both solenoids, the battery relay, which i had found to b burnt up n side, ive had to replace the the cable from starter to battery relay cse of no power , ive replaced ignition switch,starter, i now have #6 fuse blowing,i sometimes have power on both sides of battey relay,the 2 small wires that go to battery relsy does not have power on them, then sometimes they will, also the 2 main wires that go to battery relay sometimes doesnt have power on them ,and thays with key switch on. Ive removed seat and tracing wires from nside of cab and searching for a short in harness. If u have any ideas ,they will b greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time
The 2 small wires on the battery relay are the control circuit to turn the battery relay on and off. The black small wire goes to the revolving frame. The other small wire , (Black and red) is fed by Governor Pump Controller Pin #1. Fuse Number 1 feeds the Governor Pump Controller #13 pin which is the Power Supply. Fuse number 6 Feeds the Horn Switch, then from what I see goes to the horn. Does your Key switch have clean power to the Battery Terminal of it, or is it on, off. It is powered up by fuse 14. Will get you a few tests to do after supper. Simon C
Ive discovered another problem,inside cab,no#6 fuse was blown, and what ive found out so far ,that fuse is supposed to b optional for a/c and a power option,but whn at first installed fuse, it blew instantly,but whn i removed some of the junk behind seat, trash basically, i jerked on harness,and then tried another fuse, and it didnt blow,so i tried starting the excavator and that #6 blew instantly. I removed seat,and heater,and pedastol completey out of cab,and to find so much trash,junk, and muck,that i left it up to helper to clean thourghly for me to trace wire harness in the morning. Thanks for helping me find this problem, im not out of the woods yet, and cant say for sure that i will find the problem nside, but removing everything and cleaning nside cab area, is a must and will prevent future problems. Ive found though connections off of wiring harness that the schematic doesnt show. Like a toggle switch that is mounted on the bottom right of seat,guessing right now the wires that attached to it was bout 5 or 6 wires.that i can remember at the moment. Its looks to b factory hook up going by the bracket that is bolted on seat pedastol. Schematics doesnt show of no such switch. Have a 1question that has just crossed my mind though, wld the monitor have any impact on the shorting out or the starting of excavator? Being that the power goes through it first b4 going to starter? If you happen to find or think of anyrhing that wld lead me to the problem i wld appreciate it greatly... thanks again for your time on helping me fiind this problem, and will give an update if or whn i find anything tomorrow
Ive discovered another problem,inside cab,no#6 fuse was blown, and what ive found out so far ,that fuse is supposed to b optional for a/c and a power option,but whn at first installed fuse, it blew instantly,but whn i removed some of the junk behind seat, trash basically, i jerked on harness,and then tried another fuse, and it didnt blow,so i tried starting the excavator and that #6 blew instantly. I removed seat,and heater,and pedastol completey out of cab,and to find so much trash,junk, and muck,that i left it up to helper to clean thourghly for me to trace wire harness in the morning. Thanks for helping me find this problem, im not out of the woods yet, and cant say for sure that i will find the problem nside, but removing everything and cleaning nside cab area, is a must and will prevent future problems. Ive found though connections off of wiring harness that the schematic doesnt show. Like a toggle switch that is mounted on the bottom right of seat,guessing right now the wires that attached to it was bout 5 or 6 wires.that i can remember at the moment. Its looks to b factory hook up going by the bracket that is bolted on seat pedastol. Schematics doesnt show of no such switch. Have a 1question that has just crossed my mind though, wld the monitor have any impact on the shorting out or the starting of excavator? Being that the power goes through it first b4 going to starter? If you happen to find or think of anyrhing that wld lead me to the problem i wld appreciate it greatly... thanks again for your time on helping me fiind this problem, and will give an update if or whn i find anything tomorro
As per post#5 above , Do you have clean power to the Battery Terminal of the key switch. Do you have power at Pin 13 (Power Supply) at Pump Controller Connector-C01 Do you Have power at Pin#1 (connector) X-07 that feeds the key switch battery terminal. If battery relay does not work properly, don't expect anything else to work. These things have to work first. Simon C
Simon i found out something that has made me spend alot of wasted time n finding the problem with a no start. The no.1 fuse that ive been working off of to find problem n wiring for starting but havent had any success, problem was that the fuses wasnt numbered right,they r backwards, so that has got me back on the fuse being blowed as soon as i try and start it. Ive got wiring harness split open, i put a test light on the no.1 fuse and found the 1 that has power to it,and of course it goes toward battery, and it is a white wire, the other white which nturns goes to ignition switch, if i unhook that wire from ignition switch,and insert a new fuse on #1 of fuse box, it does not blow it, with out turning the key to the on position,i take the wire that is supposed to b connected to ignition switch,and barely touch the post it blows the fuse, again, i am not turning it to the on position, and it blows fuse anyways. With that being sd. Wld there b a chance that the wires on the battery relay may b on the wrong posts, the 1s that go to battery and to starter? That wld make it blow fuses? Or wld it b a direct short from pos to ground some where? I can take that white wire ans go around the terminals of the ignition switch , and it will arch on everyone of them except for C ,R2, and R1 whn touching it with white wire will make solenoid click, Also after removing wires from battery relay but leaving just the 1 that goes to battery, theres power on both studs that goes from battery to starter, and never any power on the black and red, i put a new battery relay on it. But onlt cld get the after market that is made n china, that doesnt look anything like the original, im getn the feeling that is my problem. I know i have written alot dwn and hopen it makes sense, if u or anybody that you know has had this problem, your info. Will b greatly appreciated! And again ,thank you for your time
On your battery relay there is 2 large terminals for battery cable on one side along with 2 smaller cables both red on same side. The battery terminal that is stamped B has a large cable that goes to the 24 volt terminal of the second battery. The smaller of the two red wires goes on that relay stud also. The other battery cable goes on the M terminal of the solenoid and goes to the starter hot solenoid. The larger of the red wires goes on the same relay stud. On the other side of this battery relay is the two control circuit wires that put the relay on or off. The + side of it has a smaller Black/Red wire hooked up to it. It also on the same side but over an inchor so has a bit larger black ground wire that goes to the revolving frame. Have you taken some live 24 volt power and tried to see if putting it to the small + terminal of the control side makes it work? Or have you tried attaching a ground cable back to the battery negative from the small negative terminal of the relay. Maybe your ground cable is no good. I am not there and wonder if my schematics are exactly the same as what your serial number is. Check if what I have posted above here is what you have for wiring colours. Your Starter switch should have for wires: 1- Large red to Battery terminal 2- Large white to Accesory terminal 3- Small Red/Green to BR Terminal 4- Small Red/Yellow to R1 Terminal 5- Small Red/White To the C Terminal Is this what the wires are at your Key switch. Simon C
Im going over to shop and take some pictures of what i got i think it will give you a clearer picture than what im trying to explain. It will b a cple hrs b4 i get there.
I can send more pictures,especially on battery relay and solenoids, and ignition switch today b4 noon.
What you have is totally different from the seial number 83001 and up. Your key switch wires are diferent coloured, your relays look actually very small or wrong compared to the ones I have seen. Have you tried to buy a schematic from the dealership, it shows exactly which wire goes where on key switch amd also at disconnect switch. Very hard for me if wiring is different. Simon C