I found a 2018 TB260 with 2,368 hours on it that appears to be in good shape overall. Found a few issues I'd like to address. First question, my Lock N Lube won't fit this fitting: Do you guys know of a slim tip that will fit? It also has to be at a slight angle to clear the bucket back side, which is why the Lock N Lube won't work. The boom cylinder hard line is bent pretty bad: I don't see a separate part number for it, so I assume its part of the cylinder. If I loosen the banjo bolt, do you think I can get away with using a block of wood and a sledge hammer to straighten it back out? Alternatively, is a replacement hard line available? This is how it its supposed to look: There are a few other minor issues, like a missing fuel cap and a loose door hinge that I'm fixing. It came with a pin on 24" bucket, so I'll definitely be looking for a pin grabber coupler for it. Kind of glad it didn't come with the Wain Roy QC as that means I can use the 24" bucket that came with it. It cleaned up real nice and the tracks are in great condition: When I raised it up, I dropped the blade first and then attempted to lower the boom with the dipper arm straight down and the bucket level. It would not raise the machine that way. I had to pull the dipper towards the machine a bit, and put the teeth straight down as shown in the pic above. I'm assuming that's normal and I don't have an issue with too low hydraulic pressure? Thanks!
Pipe has part #.
You can clip a needle greaser into the lock n lube. https://www.amazon.com/LockNLube-Na...9lBagp4AK0HlK6Ij8mgA-rHV_mH_T8aRoCswgQAvD_BwE I would not sweat that bent line, but that is me. Nice purchase I hope it does what you want. I agree you are in a good place for getting a pin grabber. It's big money but having one of the buckets is quite helpful.
Thanks! I searched all over my TB260 parts manual and could not find that part #. Looking up that part # (19001128 10 ), keeps brining up the main cylinder (19001128 00 ), for $1,500. I'll call the nearest dealer on Monday and see if that is something they can get. @skyking1 Thanks for that link! Didn't even known they made those. That will be perfect. And you're probably right that the bent line doesn't affecting anything and is just cosmetic, but I'm a stickler like that. As far as the pin grabber, I'm wondering if I can use the oem one and use buttons already on the stick to control it vs. having to mount a separate control box somewhere? According to the invoice, what I got is a TB260C. Playing with the screen, I do seem to have Aux 4, maybe? Btw, the screen seems to be higher resolution than what I see on a lot of other TB260's for sale: Maybe that was just an upgrade for 2018?
That is one clean shop! Can I work there?
Just fyi, you are going to loose A LOT of breakout force on the bucket if you go with a pin grabber style quick attach. Something to think about if you plan to do much clearing/grubbing/stump digging.
I had a similar issue in a new to me Cat and here is what a Hydraulic Guru here shared with me: HeavyEquipmentForums
The computer is capable of handling that number of aux. hyd's. That doesn't mean you have them on your machine. I have two aux. plus the coupler on my 257. It looks like you have two as well, but I cant see it very clearly. Take a picture of the side of the stick and post it and we can tell you.
Congrats on the purchase hope you have good luck with it. We have 2 of them. You can use the fitting in the end of the pin instead of using the one that your lock n lube won’t fit. Tube is available and a simple fix. We have pin grabbers on both of ours and the machine still has plenty of power, no one complains it doesn't, they would complain if they thought it was a dog on power.
@motionclone Thanks for the link! The part of about the boom making an arc makes a lot of sense. @KSSS Yeah, mine only came with 2 AUX lines running up to the dipper. However, it looks like there are provisions already on the boom for another set of hardlines. Would like to add the factory parts for a 3rd aux for a coupler. Probably cost prohibitive however. I'm leaning towards the AIM H165-45 kit. It runs $2,842 (quoted directly from AIM), and includes all the lines, valves, controller, etc. @MG84 I'm aware I'll loose some breakout force, but I'm coming from a John Deere 260B backhoe on a 1025R sub-compact tractor. That thing has a breakout force of around 2,000 lbs. And I used it to dig out some big stumps, but it took a LONG time. I'll mainly be using the TB260 with a flail mower and possibly a mulching head as well. The other 25% or so will be dirt engaging activities, including digging out stumps, build a couple of small ponds and stuff like that. I went ahead and pulled both pins. The lower one was bone dry: Reason being the pin is solid with no grease fittings on the ends. The link doesn't have a grease fitting either. So the only way to grease it is to pull it out. I guess it originally had a hollow pin and it was replaced at some point. The main pin has quite a bit of slop: The TAG thumb was also sloppy on the main pin. Didn't get a chance to check if it has replaceable bushings or not. The dry pin had a smaller gap, but there was still some slop. So should I bust out 4 new bushings and get a greaseable pin to replace the dry one? A cheaper alternative would be to drill the link for a grease nibble. I'm surprised they didn't come like that from the factory, or maybe mine had been replaced at some point? Thanks!
@heymccall I was curious what parts manual you used to look up that boom cylinder pipe in. The one I got is titled "PARTS MANUAL TB260 BQ1Z002-5-0 S/N 126100003-". I'm guessing its older and not 100% relevant to my 2018 TB260. I was trying to look up the part number for the door hinges, but they are not in here either. This is the hinge I'm referring to: Mine was twisted from a previous repair attempt, but the door doesn't close right and I'm not able to straighten it out properly, due to the angles involved. If you wouldn't mind sharing your version of the parts manual, it would be greatly appreciated.
PM me with your email But, this one is even earlier, I think. Too big to attach.
If your going to run a mower off of it, be sure to read how to turn up the flow on your second aux. When I got my 257, I set the flow at 100 percent, and it wouldn't run a hoe pac like my 153 would. I was not familiar with console. The rate of flow can go OVER 100 percent, once I realized that I set it at its highest level, it runs a hoe pac great and will show hi flow on the console. Something to aware of.
@heymccall PM sent! @KSSS Thanks for the tip. As I was playing around with the menus the other day, I came across this screen: So No. 1 present appears to be set to 22.5 Gal/min already, which should be enough I would think. I cleaned up the pins: And got out the micrometer and measured them from the end with the pin at multiple locations. Also used my calipers to measure the bushings. This is what I came up with: I don't know what the actual diameter spec is for the pins or bushings. Can I assume its exactly 45mm for the pins? I was also wondering what getting a pin grabber will do to the geometry of the thump? Do I need to get a new thump when adding a pin grabber? Thanks!
Been busy looking over the machine and making note of things to fix. Here's a list of parts I have ordered so far or am getting ready to order: I paid $37k for the machine, which I think was a great deal for a 2018 with 2,368 hours and a thumb, so spending a few grand to get it to 100% isn't too bad. I just noticed a small leak from the bucket cylinder seal, so I'll be ordering that as well. The OEM one is $205, but I can get a "Hercules" kit for $60. Anyone with experience using aftermarket seal kits? The seal got damaged due to these scratched on the rod: And this nick in particular: For the scratches, I purchased a kit of Micro-Mesh, and plan on working my way up from 1500 to 12000. Does that sound like a decent approach? For the nick, I plan to use a 1000 whetstone to knock off any ridges, and then use JB Weld Steelstick to fill in the gap. Do those sounds like good solutions for reconditioning the cylinder rod surface? I'm also replacing the boom cylinder rod cover since the one I got is all bent up and I was not able to straighten it out properly. The bent one worn down the lip on one side of the guide it rides on: Do you guys think I can lay down some weld beads to re-create the lip? Also, any recommendations on a decent spanner wrench to get the gland nut off on the bucket cylinder? It looks to be about 4" outside diameter. I see lots of choices on Amazon ranging from a low of about $20, up to about $300. Thanks!