I ve finally got my new parts in today and wanted to install the pinion shaft in my 350B case. The transaxle is out of the tractor and on my hydraulic press. So I did add more shims ,but I still get the bearings tight. I probably got it to 100ftlbs and it has started to have a resistance. if I try and turn the shaft with my fingers I can get it to turn but is pretty tight. I put a torque wrench on it and it didnt budge the needle. I was under the impression that the shaft should turn real smooth without any tightness. The manual says must have zero endplay and preload when you torque to 200ftlbs. Any advice here? is that tightness normal and should I keep going? thanks
Sounds like you need more shimming. Or possibly less shims between the bearings. If you're installing new ring gear and pinion, it should have the base dimension between the bottom bearing and shaft scribed into tail of the pinion. Remember not to install your seal until the last time that you assemble it. I have taken truck third members apart as many as a dozen or more times in order to get perfect! It takes lots of patience and persistence. Also lightly oil the bearings when you start, this also helps. It should be easy to turn by hand when you get it right. Maybe snug, at this point, a .001" shim can make a lot of difference, again, PATIENCE , just think, once you get this finished then you still ring gear clearance and pinion wear pattern to set.
The orginal shimpack was .023 and the new pinion says 47. so I tried 47 and 67 to have the shaft tighten up. Should I still go higher?
Yair . . . Fordman . Not telling you how to suck eggs but it is vital that cones are seated hard against shoulders and likewise the cups in the retainers/housings. A slight burr or a piece of swarf or grit can cause endless frustration. As bfdfire mentions this can be a long drawn out procedure. Changes made should be recorded and the readings/results should make sense . . . particularly when you get the preload established and start on setting backlash and contact pattern. Any of the old timey gear I worked on had a specification for preload usually in pounds pull with a spring balance pulling a cord wrapped around a specified part of the shaft or pinion. Typically the torque to get the member turning would be up to twice the running value . . . the member should run freely though with no lumpiness or sticking. It's a long way in there so it pays to do it right. Best of luck with it and any chance of pictures? Cheers.
Best of luck with it and any chance of pictures? It sounds like you are on the right track, it will just take a while to get there. If I might ask, when you add your shims, are you adding them between between the pinion bearings? this is where you will get your preload adjustment. adding them ahead or behind the front or rear pinion bearings will change pinion depth and contact pattern but will probably not alter preload. This adjustment will have to be made also, but it takes one step at a time. Following one path at a time will ultimately be your best reward.