I didn't know where to post this. There are some very knowledgeable people on this board, so I'm hoping for some good input. The internet is full of a lot of fools and scams, so I've given up on that. I want to buy a 5,000 running watt minimum, up to 8,000 watt, generator for emergency use when power is temporarily out at my house. I just need enough to take turns between the well pump, water heater, and electric stove. It will be rarely used, if ever, but it's got to be reliable because when I need it the temps will probably be below zero. My choices locally are DeWalt, Steele, AI (never heard of them before), BE (never heard of them either), Ryobi, Champion. Read some bad reviews on the DeWalt (3 different people had the same problems with the recoil starter). Would appreciate input.
My 5,000 watt won't run either the stove or the water heater. My 10,000 watt welder wouldn't run my water heater when both coils were on. I suggest you check tags that shows the amperage ratings on each appliance and figure your needs from that. Just the old microwave loads the heck out of the genset.
Any water heater I've ever seen would not run both elements at the same time; usually top first, then it switches to the bottom. My current water heater tag shows: top element 3800 watts/bottom element 5500 watts/maximum watts 5500. I changed out the bottom element for a 5000 watt ultra low watt density nickel chromium incoloy, so my max wattage is now 5000.
If my water heater starts out cold, both elements come on at the same time.
You must have it on a 40 or 50 amp circuit. I've never seen it.
Sorry John, the top switch should be wired either or, top element or bottom, so it can run on 30A. Or 15A if it's mexican wired.
There's more knowledgeable people than me on this but you should figure on only getting 33-50% sustained wattage of the claimed from one of these types of gensets (cheap). Certain types of loads use an insane amount of wattage to start up electric motors. Lots of RV'ing websites will give alist of the high demand applaiances.
I have seen a water heater that ran both elements sometimes, but it would be 50 or 80 years old now and is no doubt made into razor blades.
The thing is only a couple of years old. It’s 240 volt and has two 30 amp breakers. Both coils are 5500 watt.
Maybe it's a Northwest thing? Anybody could wire one up that way, but they shouldn't, only the top has an overlimit cut out (red reset button), on the ones I've seen designed for non simultaneous operation.
How big of a house are you powering that you're worried about switching between loads? All your choices are maybe 2 different China units with the paint and logos changed, so whoever has the best warranty and stock on the shelves will be your best bet. Running a 7kW MQ over a bad winter (well below freezing), we had the whole house operating like normal; Central heat with blower, water heater, 2 fridges, electric stove, lights, TV, etc.
I figure that if the lower element of the water heater comes on the same time as the freezer and well pump, or if I'm cooking, it could get overpowered. No big deal to just turn on what I need when I need it. Of course low power draws could stay on (lights, tv, etc.). Also, I was looking at a 5kw. gen.
I figure that if the lower element of the water heater comes on the same time as the freezer and well pump, or if I'm cooking, it could get overpowered. No big deal to just turn on what I need when I need it. Of course low power draws could stay on (lights, tv, etc.). Also, I was looking at a 5kw. gen.