Ok all you wrench benders, this is a shop forum, let's see the tools and gagets you work with to get something done. There's a lot of small owner/operators/repaimen on this forum that I'm certain would like to see "a better way" to get a task accomplished. I think I've posted these pics somewhere buryed in the forum sections, beats me where the heck they are though, so I thought a designated tools thread would be a good reference place for the useful shop tools that we work with. This is a tool that's as handy as a handle on a shovel head. A hollow ram Enerpace hyd cylinder. This one goes for around $850 to $1000 retail depending on where you look, I scored this one on ebay for $375 + shipping, no regrets spending that money for this tool. You can use it as a typical pushing jack cylinder like other porta power cylinders, but you can also insert up to a 1 1/4" rod through it to perform pulling tasks. It's handy for removing and install bushings in cylinder rod ends for example. Very handy shop tool, have used it on many occasions. I've got it set up here to remove and install rubber isolater bushing inserts on a Case Maxi-Sneaker vibratory plow. Ever tried to remove or install compressed rubber inserts with a hammer? Good luck with that! With this tool, piece of cake. Here's the removing set up with a pushing sleeve on backside of the insert. Tighten the nuts on the threaded rod until pushing sleeve is against the steel bushing in center or rubber insert, Then simply pump the cylinder. Bushing removed slicker than snot on a door knob. Re-installed new bushings by greasing everything with silicone lube, fitted new bushing on backside of square tubing socket, fitted up the pulling rod and simply pulled the new isolater in place. I've used this tool to install bushings on loader arms, excavator bucket pin bushings, all kinds of tasks I used to do with a sledge. I'd rather use this tool as opposed to a sledge anyday.
What, no bobcat bender?
LoL, naw, ya gotta go the the T190 thread to see that one.
Well what if i want the TP90000 model ...lol Atco you the man..
Well, that makes two of us koldsteele. Ok folks, here's another tool I wouldn't want to be without. Need to drill a good size hole in some thick steel on a machine? Don't have a particular fondness for being wound up like a pretzel with a big electric hand drill? Or maybe you would just like to have a hole that is clean, straight, and not shaped like an egg. The solution is actually quite simple; Jancey mag drill with annular cutter bits (Slugger bit). These things are awesome to work with and will produce nearly machine shop quality holes. Admittedly, these drills are expensive, I think we paid around $1,500 for this one, but if you have a project to do, a lot of rental shops rent these tools. A mag drill will make your life so much easier on tough drilling projects. Keep in mind that a mag drill needs a flat steel base to get a good hold and it usually requires at least 1/4" to 3/8" thick steel or the magnet won't activate. If your working on thinner steel, you may need to tack weld a thicker base plate on top of work steel, or place a steel backer underneath to get a good magnet base. Also, if you're drilling horizontal, always have a rope or strap attached to the drill and something overhead in case power gets accidently interrupted, that way drill won't fall to the ground. Here's the thread about that pic that shows the type of work you can do with a mag drill and annular cutter bits just to give you an idea. It was a stuck pin that I could have beat my little brain out using a sledge to remove it, or spend half an hour with a mag drill and remove the pin with a ball peen hammer. Option B sounded soooo much better to me.
the mag drill is priceless i have used mine in the field also be sure to use the crane to hold it there "the welder has been known to run out of gas at the most inopertune moment) thought you filled it was the answer i got from my helper
Fservice I always use a safety chain on our mag drill when work overhead or on its side. I was drilling an I Beam in the shop upside down when someone helping me caught the extension cord and unplugged the drill. After falling about 15' in about 1.5 seconds the outcome was good on the drill, a few hundred dollars in repairs. Side note it scared the crap out of me as it fell down beside me, glad I wasn't under the drill.... lesson learn well.
Shop Talk... Grrrrrrrrrr!!! Mean, mean, mean... You're a mean man, ATCO... :tong OCR... LOL...
What? I didn't post in that thread. And, not my fault you're in Montana and getting "hammered" by Canadian weather right now. Ha!
Shop Talk... Grrrrrrr! Yup.... mean! LOL OCR...
power failures and mag drills are expensive... we had one drop about 75 feet... there was no repairs... just a butt chewing... about 30 years ago and lanyards attached to the drills after that..
I see those once in a while at a good price used but cannot justify buying one but it is something that I would love to have.It is surprising how many people in the trade have never heard of them.Ron G
Has anybody here ever use the "Slide Sledge" for driving out pins and or bushings? Seen a video on utube about it and was wondering if its worth the cost?
We just recently purchased a short and long slide sledge and some attachments. Haven't used it much yet, but it is a handy tool. I hope to get some shots of using it for various tasks.
We have a side hammer sledge in the shop. A few guy use it but i prefer a big sledge and a pin driver.
We also have a slide sledge and it works well as most of the time im by myself. Make sure you get the extra weight for it.
That's why my boss purchased one nowing75, because many times I'm out in the field by myself. Not long ago I had to remove a breaker from a 235B Cat by myself, and it turned out, unknown to me, that the dog bone link was tweaked. That was a project to remove the pins by myself with a sledge and drive pin, one I don't want to do again soon. :Banghead
What is a slide sledge? Never even heard the term before. Always interested to learn something new.Thanks
Here ya go donkey doctor, http://www.slidesledge.com/ You can order them from any Cat dealer.
Thanks for the link. Learned something new from it. never too old to learn I figure. Thanks again. D.D.
whats the price range on those?
Geeez, I don't have that in my head Mike L, but they're not really cheap. We have about $1,000 in two different size sledge drivers, and a wide range of pin driver heads, and 3 different size bucket pin removal and install heads. Slide Sledge sells through a distributor network, I got quotes for 2 distributors, and got a quote from local Cat store, Cat was the better price. I'll see if I can find that quote list tomorrow and bring it home.
thanks. so except for all the different attachments, how is it different from any other slide hammer?
Well, I don't know how it compares to other slide hammers as I haven't used them, this would be the first one of this type I've used. From what little I've used it so far, it seems like a very easy tool for just one person to operate, as opposed to hitting a driving pin with a big hammer by oneself, not an easy task.
it's a good rig no doubt. somehow i always end up holding the drive pin!
I haven't got to use our new toys much yet, but I did do one simple task with one last week, at least, the slide sledge made it simple. Took the center swivel out of a Case 9050B excavator, and my helper asked me how best to remove the center post from the swivel. Now, it was a rather large unit, round, and only had three mounting ears on the side of the housing. I looked at it for a moment, thought, hmm, can't really put it in a shop press with just three mounting ears, 4 would have been no problem. Hmmm. Then it dawned on me, duuuhhhh, slide sledge. Grabbed the small driver, 3" size pin driver head, laid swivel on it's side on steel shop table, turned one of the mounting ears so it hooked on the edge, of table and held it down. Helper placed pin driver head on center post, and in just a couple of whacks, center post was lying on table. No holding and driving a pin. Really simple actually.
I've never used a slide sledge, we usually just use a 10 lb or a pinch bar... I am interested in that ram you use though ATCO. You said you have used it for bucket pin bushings I asume those are the ones set in the end of the stick? I have to replace those in a Hitchi ZX 200 LC, do you think it would work for those?
We use a number of different sized rams ranging from 50tons to 200tons. Just make sure the pulling rods are rated for the tonnage you plan on using. Always assume the rods can brake at any time because they will.
It should do no problem! the one i have is abit smaller than atco's and i have pulled some real tight bushes over 4" no problem! I am on the look out for a much bigger one though!
The one I have is a 30 ton cylinder Acivil, shouldn't have any problem with 200 size excavator bushings with one that size. I use a 1 1/4" grade 8 threaded rod, I don't use grade 5 or grade 2. I recently installed new bushing in the dog bone of our 235B excavator, had no problems.
We had a salesman drop off these hose caps. He gave us a few different sizes to try. They do work well and will hold some head pressure. Now there is no worry about a plastic plug falling out overnight and draining a tank. They are stamped "not for pressure" I have no idea how much they cost.
Hi Lee, have you got a name for those caps? Very handy looking!
I'll see check tomorrow at work.
those are slick
I want those, please provide a link to the supplier.
The Lance We used that bad boy as a last resort for pins and shafts that wouldn't move when everything else failed. Basically you used it to melt a hole right through the center of a pin so that you could take your torch finish blowing it out, otherwise the torch tip would get too hot and sounded like a M-16 going off in your face. It definitly wasn't used for finese work, it melted and blew out whatever metal you touched with it. And God help you if you dont have a good eye and a steady hand to keep it straight in the hole.
For the hose end caps, go to flangelock.com. They list for about $50.00 each and there are quite a few sizes. They do look slick though.
I got to use my Enerpac hollow ram cylinder again today. I swear, this is the best 375 dollars I've ever spent on Ebay. This thing has saved me more grief installing pin bushings than I can even describe.
Isn't E-Bay great? I've spent thousands of dollars there after SnapOn had nothing more to offer. For a tool junkie like me it's wonderful. If I started posting pictures of all my specialty tools here I'd have to take time off of work just to get it done.
Atco have you used it to install stick end bushings in a 160 size excavator?
Bigger than that Rob...stick and dog bone bushings on Cat 235B. Worked like a charm.
I gotta get one now. Thanks
It's a great tool Rob for one who does bushings and such. But that bad boy goes around 1,000 bucks retail, gotta be savy obtaining one. But even laying down a big bill...it's a helluva handy tool for those who need it.
I pushed the main pin out of the equalizer bar on a D8R with my 30 ton hollow cylinder ram. Can't remember the brand but it's green in color. Mine's a lot shorter than yours. We had clearance issues on the equalizer bar. Got it off Ebay for around $300, and will second your opinion about 'em. ...and I found out it will outmatch any Grade 5 1 1/4" all thread. Whoa Nelly when it breaks too...
Yup, I use a 1 1/4" grade 8 threaded rod myself. Haven't broke it yet...and really don't want to. It would no doubt go "Ka Boom!"
Yes, those rams are priceless. We use them all the time. We have many different sizes from a small 50ton pancake with only a 1/2" stroke to 200ton with a 10" stroke.
ATCO are you powering that Enerpac ram with a Enerpac pump or a standard "port-a-power" pump. Does that make sense?
Still using the old hand pump. Would very much love to upgrade to the electric pump. :yup
Atco, is your hollow ram a double action or single action? I'm watching a 60 ton on E-Bay but it's a double action and I only have a hand pump. I'm wondering how much trouble it would be.
The one I have is like a bottle jack, hydraulic extend, spring retract.
Just my thoughts on electric had {noticed i said had} one on a 50 ton OTC press ...didnt like it to scary for me ..I love my two stage Enerpac pump yes hand pump ..to me you I have more control ...Presses in general scare me ...Lawd the things that go flyin ..
I used a 20 Ton Bottle Jack to jack a center pin out of a Timber Jack Skidder once.When it tuned loose it left a dent in the cab.
I used a 50 ton jack to pull the wheel hub from the spindle on a JD 570A. Before I got to much on it, I decided I need a safety chain around the jack and through the handle to keep it rocketing thru the shop. I am still glad I did. The chained stopped that jack just inches from my knees. The more I read thru these forums the more close calls I remember.
Some times you have to fab.your own tool to get the job done.I had a Welder make an open end wrench with a little angle once.Worked as good as a Snap on maybe better.Didn't break while using an 8 foot cheater pipe.
Atco... what a cool thread and an awesome tool! I have a cat 416 and a bobcat 743 both needing bushings and you sir have just saved my sanity!!!going to look for one starting now, any tips on what to look for? And it seems I am going to need a mag drill too! Thanks again!!!
This is the one I have rooferdave, they are expensive. I got lucky and got mine on Ebay for a good price. And if you don't have the pump, gonna have to get that also. Then you need the pulling rod, I use a 1 1/4" grade 8 threaded rod. And you need various 1" thick steel washers (cut from steel plate) for pulling in large diameter bushings. There's quite a few extra things that you need to perform these tasks, the small stuff. The biggie is the cylinder and the pump. If you perform these type of repairs frequently, it's money well spent. If it's just a one time thing, or just an occasional task, that's a good chunk of money to spend. You could check some rental stores in your area, it's a good chance they have these tools a person could rent to do a bushing job on their machine. http://www.drillspot.com/products/41194/Enerpac_RCH302_Hollow_Single_Acting_Cylinder
Just a thought on the hyd pump. I found this one on ebay and it is about the same as mine just a lot cheaper. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Air-Hydraulic-Power-Unit-Air-Over-Hydraulic-Pump-/270718635294 I started out looking around for an air powered pump to replace my manual one several years ago and wound up getting mine from my snap on man. I got it from him just because of the convenience of using him for hard to find stuff when I was in a hurry. The down side to the snap on man is it wound up being around $600.00 to buy it and that was a few years ago. Trust me though it is well worth the difference in money to go to the air powered pump or the electric pump over the manual one no matter who you get it from. It is real nice to be able to hold the cylinder in place and just push on the valve/pump or switch with your foot and run the cylinder out against whatever you are working on. Of course on larger stuff I use my Caterpillar set up which has an electric over hyd pump to go with my other cylinders that range from 30 to 200 tons. I fell in love with my setup the first time I had to replace an equalizer bar in a Cat D8R dozer.
We took a old tranny jack and mounted a piece of 6"x48" u channel on it to help get cylinders out of bumpers on cranes.
Atco,Lee or Smittys might help me here. I'm about to repair a final drive on a D31S Crawler Loader. The Komatsu manual tells me I need to separate the steering flange from pinion,using a "remover". When the flange & pinion are re-fitted,I need a 50T push-puller tool.(I require 4-12 ton of force to fit). I can't find a hire outlet for the push-puller,so I'd look at buying a used one,if possible. Can someone show me a picture of this tool...bearing in mind that it needs to fit in a steer housing,so has to be short? I'm thinking it looks a little like Atco's hollow ram. I have an old OTC brochure with lots of rams & pullers shown,but I'm unsure of my exact needs. Any thoughts on this job are appreciated. Thanks, Jim
Jim, I think what you need is caterpillar part # 6V-3170 55TON 3.5" stroke ram.
Jim correction onthat ram, it is 3.5" long with 1/2" stroke
I'm not sure what tool you're needing JimInOz. Maybe something like this, similar to what TOM V suggested. http://www.drillspot.com/products/41311/Enerpac_RSM-500_Single_Acting_Cylinder
Thanks for the advice,Guys.At least I know what to look for. I might buy from the USA,as the local prices will be crazy....any thoughts on suppliers I should deal with? My other requirement ,near the end of my repair,is the need to press fit the sprocket. What am I gonna need there? Thanks again, Jim.
Jim looks like you need sprocket puller/pusher,but you will need specific tooling for that machine your working on.I always wanted to buy this equipment but never found it used,don't use it too often so could not justify buying new,plus alll the different tooling.
Hi Tom, Thanks for the advice.I'll get a mechanic to press the sprocket on. I found a cheaper version of that Enerpac short ram,on eBay for $280....I think I'll go with that.I've had a good run with the cheaper knock-off jacks,although they only get used on a weekly basis. Jim
Jim, good luck with that job. TOM
Here's a cool 3/4" drive ratchet that we purchased for our service truck, the EZ Red MR34. It has a knurled handle for good grip, and is 24" long. But if you need a longer handle, no need to get cheater pipe, pull back the locking collar, and the handle will extend to 40 inches. Has a total of 6 locking positions to hold handle firmly in place.
That's pretty slick Willie.
LoL, well, I only have 135 lbs of counterweight Rob, it's been rather handy for me.
I cant live without my OTC digital pressure gauges MAc large angle wrenches(anyone who's ever worked on a feller bunchers can attest to this),the afformentioned hollow ram jack and of course,air powered vacuum pump for pulling a vacuum in hydraulic systems to prevent spillage when working on them
Har de Har.....he said slick Willie.....har har har!! .Ron G
I've got a 3/8 ratchet like that, that was given to me, and I thought it would be useless. Turns out, I like it a lot. I never thought to see if they made other sizes. I think I'll get a 3/4 and a 1/2". P.S. Yes Ron, I'm afraid The Mechanic Formerly Known As ATCO is going to have to put up with a bunch of "slick Willie" jokes, maybe even from me.
cutting edge could you explain that air vac item some more, I have never seen anything like it in the U.K.??
It is an air powered vac pump designed for servicing air conditioning systems. It works by blowing compressed air through a venturi. They are low volume, but they will pull a hard vaacum.
That's right,but I built a hose that adapts the A/C fitting to a -4 jic,with adaptors to plumb into hydraulic tanks. I also have a few tank caps with fittings on them,for loaders and Backhoes and such. Sure beats draining a tank to do suction hoses and orings or swapping out hydraulic pumps and coolers.
When I was in the army engineers we used a system of that same principle to evacuate the remaining air in the pontoons that we used to build the bridges across the rivers in my TD-18 thread. The old solvant guns worked the same way.Ron G
Anybody ever used one of those Cat 963s to take the cylinder head bolts out of a D8H? I was helping my dad one day and the one inch airgun would budge them....both of us at the end of a 8 foot pipe wasnt doing anything so our last resort was to use something that wouldn't give up. That also proves that there really is a difference in Snap-On tools and everything else. I thought for sure when I was pushing the ratched with the loader something would give up but we got all of them out of the one head like that.
At the Co. I worked for in the late '80s-early '90s, the standard way we always tightened the walking bushings on camelback Macks was to work a 1" ratchet with a trackhoe.
Willie, I'm looking at getting one of these for bushings, pins and other stuff. For your typical small to medium and large ag equipment, what tonnage ram do you reccomend. Also I know you need a hardened threaded rod for these, but they don't seem to list the rod. Where should I look for that stock? Thanks for the good work on here, I especially enjoy the shop talk section.
Depends on the work you're going to need it for equip guy. The one I have is a 30 ton cyl and will accept a 1 1/4" rod, can't remember the stroke. You may not need one of that tonnage, but at times it's been awesome for me doing bushing on big excavators. One of the best tool investments I've made. I use a grade 8 threaded rod, got it from a local bolt/fastener supplier. If you don't have anything local, I'm sure you could find some grade 8 rod on the web.
Thanks. You are right on it being pricey. I'm looking at an OTC 30ton and it's around $850 I have to buy new as I work for a municapality and they need a paper trail and warranty. So I'm looking for the best "bang" for the buck. I'm going to be doing bushings on a JD 444 soon so I hope I"ll have it when it makes the shop.
power probe short finder and test probe are great for electrical work, i had a short in a kobelco 200 and i traced it with the short finder in about 15 minutes. huge time saver. also the test probe is like a test light but it tells you if its grounded or hot and the voltage and you can power an accessory or light to see if the accessory or light is the issue or a connection. great tool and not to expensive if you buy it from amazon
For things like track shoe & master link bolts, large loader collet bolts, wheel nuts, etc, basically anything that needs loads of torque on it - we use RAD Air wrenches. http://www.radtorque.com.au/ I first came across them in Indonesia and haven't found anything better since. Forget your air impact tools or hydraulic torque wrenches, this is the kid for the job ......... and a lot safer to boot. http://www.radtorque.com.au/products_pneumatic.php?sub=13
Hi Nige, do you have any of the battery powered ones, i think one of those would be great!!
For what we use, only air power has sufficient "whoomph" to do the job. For example D10 track pad bolts need something close to 2000 ft.lb of torque from your wrench after you've put the initial torque on them plus 120-degrees. We're changing track shoes on one or other of our tractors pretty well every week. Regular "small" hardware we just use 1/2"-drive rattle guns on.
As above. This is what we use on track shoe bolts and anything else where we have to tighten large quantities of fasteners to high torques ..........
Is that just a storage box and regulator? Do you set the torque by controling the air pressure in?
Nige What model do you reccomend for heavy equipment work? What kind of price range are they? just a ballpark will do, to see if I can keep drooling over it or not.
Nice RAD gun .. Very common .. You guys work too hard Nige ... Never done a track bolt in years .. Thats a dealer track program job.
cps they have a 18v battery unit no prices on the web site
That was us checking that the dealer had done the track bolts correctly. We've had too many bad experiences of re-shoed tracks loosening bolts in the field. How they can do that when they have a plc-controlled Cat Track Torque wrench in their shop beats me. But then again they probably don't have anybody who knows how to use it correctly TBH. A bit of a Catch-22 really. I don't trust the dealer to do the job 100% correctly and honestly would prefer to do it all by ourselves (if for no other reason than to save the hassle of transporting tracks to & from the dealer shop), but right now I just don't have enough manpower. Mitch. Each RAD gun comes with a chart equating the air pressure to the torque it will achieve. Basically just hold the gun so it's free to rotate and squeeze the trigger. While the socket is rotating set the air pressure to the necessary value. Stop the gun, apply to the first nut, squeeze the trigger, and let go when the nut stops rotating. Repeat for all the others. One person can tighten all the bolts on 2 tracks (300+ bolts) in less than 2 hours. JDOF. The RAD gun in that picture is a RAD model 4000, capable of 4000Nm (3000lb.ft.) of torque. IIRC we paid about $5000 for it. Basically the gun, air pressure regulator, & hose all come in the black carrying case you see in the photo.
JDOF. Sorry, got the price wrong. It was $7000 not $5000. Still worth every penny IMHO.
NIge Thanks. I would love one, but for now at least it is a bit out of my budget. I must say, it is the best gun I have ever seen.
Ah well Ide never trust a RAD Gun TBH .. Its only as good as the Air pressure. Depends on the conditions its used in. For the other guys Ide just buy a Multiplier. Mechanically sound. Norbar 25:1 Anti slip back. CAT / Proto 18:1 are excellent as well but Pricey. All 1/2 in 1" out.
I'm sorry I don't totally understand that statement. We have shop air @ 120psi and 300cfm. For example to do final tighten on D10 track bolts needs about 2000ft.lb. of torque. (650ft.lb. + 120 degreees). That equates to 51psi on the RAD gun air pressure regulator. Are you implying that the torque the RAD gun produces will vary significantly when it is only required to supply less than 40% of the shop air pressure and at flow rates that are so low they are almost insignificant..? That is also the reason why the RAD gun pressure regulator must be set when the gun is turning against no load, not against a resistance. Without wanting to sound boastful I can honestly say that we've never had things like track shoes, wheel bolts, etc, come loose when we tighten them. Only when others do it. Then again we do try to do everything right like making a point of cleaning paint and other contaminants off before we assemble, many others in my experience do not. We also try to keep our equipment in good condition and have it tested/calibrated regularly. RAD guns also work very well on things like the 1-1/4" bolts for D10 & 994 GET that need around 1800ft.lb. of torque.
Even NorBar recommended air power, quote ‘Hand operated torque multipliers are ideal for low volume or intermittent use or when there is no power source available. However, for production lines or whenever a large number of bolts is involved, a powered multiplier will save a considerable amount of time’. From >link http://www.norbar.com/Products/tabid/54/mid/1202/view/category/category_multid/4/Default.aspx
Totally understand what you guys are saying BUT .. It can drop to -40c here, Need allot of tanner gas if you get what am saying. And I just cannot trust them, I mean when they hit torque and you let go, Then hit it again and the bolt moves a little .. Always bugs me .. Well Not for GET as this is usually welded afterwards. Get some pics of the Hi-Torq's up Nige and really amaze these guys. The Hand held multiplier was a recomendation for the other guys in the thread and not for production. I Had a 25:1 and aquired a CAT unit. For private use as a contractor. I wouldnt dream of using my own tooling like that in this job.
We use an electric one, we can set both tourqe and angle and then it does the job and unloads when done so it can be lifted off with ease. Has 20 programmable settings in memory for frequent jobs. cost about 7000euros.
You're not in UK with temperatures like that I would wager ....
No, Not for a long time. Whats your location?
Home is the Isle of Man. Right now somewhere a heck of a lot warmer than you ..... downside is it rains more than just a tad on an almost daily basis.
Yep, I priced one last year very expensive!!
I know we have talked about the center hole hyd cylinders on here before. And I dont know if anyone would be interested or not. But here is a link to one of mine that I have for sale on ebay. It is a 20 ton Enerpac hollowram cylinder with a Snapon turbo air over hyd pump. If anyone has any questions feel free to PM me and I will try to reply when I can. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220915387632
Awesome tool.
Thank you. I have found that I like using my electric powered Cat one the most especially seeing I have several sizes of cylinders to go with it. So I see no reason to keep both especially seeing space is limited on my service truck. I think this will be a good one for someone starting out or someone that has never had one.
That's a good price for the cylinder and pump. I'd like to have a hollow cylinder, but I already have 4 or 5 pumps. I might still bid on it, we'll see...
I broke down and the company I work for bought me a nice new slide sledge kit, (the one with 6 tips and a case) last week. The main use for it will be driving old bearings out a some wheels on our trucks and putting the new ones back in. Taking out the old ones is pretty straight forward, just reach in the center and drive them out using the 1 1/4" tip that came with the sledge. Putting them back in we did one wheel using that same tip, but I went over to a local machine shop and had them build a race driver that I could use with the 3" tip that came in the kit. Here is what I've got, the yellow part is the tip, the nice new clean steel is the driver. We used it today and it needs a couple of modifications and I'll get pictures of that when it's done.
Pretty slick trick 95.
I bought this airvac hoping to use it on hydraulic tanks and havent had time to rig up fittings yet. Does it hold enough vacuum to remove the main inlet lines to hydraulic pumps?
I just recently bought a Milwaukee M18 cordless 1/2" impact. The little sucker puts our close to the advertised 450 ft/lb torque. Yes it doesn't have the power of my Ingersoll air gun, but it sure is handy. A battery is lasting me the night and there are a whole pile of other tools to go with it. Next on my list is the 1/2 drill then the 4-1/2 inch grinder and the LED flashlight. All run off the same battery system. When the first guy in the shop showed up with one the rest of us just laughed, but now there are 4 of us with them. Great little tool.
Few special tools .. http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p124/rosspec/SSL25133-1.jpg Wireless COM http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p124/rosspec/COMWCA.jpg Found this in a dozer belly pan http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p124/rosspec/COMII.jpg Tool foam .. http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p124/rosspec/SSL25187.jpg Made in the USA http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p124/rosspec/SSL25043-1.jpg
Is the MAC pressure gauge can be use in many hydraulic application with old JIC connection?
I'm curious what people are using for scan tools on heavy equipment. Is there anything that compares to proprietary dealer software? I am mostly looking for something for CAT and Deere equipment.