How do I remove the power steering pump on a 580 b case 1972 tractor backhoe. The distributor is in the way how do I remove the distributor or does the distributor need to be removed? Please help thanks.
power steering I would first raise the loader and install a safety bar to hold it up. Your front cover has a timing pointer and numbers on the crank pulley. Remove #1 plug and rotate the engine until #1 cylinder is at tdc, you will feel the air force heavy on compression and light on exhaust stroke. If your using the flywheel hole timing you will see DC on the flywheel and line it up with the pointer. Remove the distributor cap and check that the rotor lines up with the #1 contact in the cap or close to it. Mark the rotor spark end to the distributor housing, mark the base to the block, this is your starting point when replacing the distributor after installing the pump. Remove the wire, remove the retainer and slide the distributor up, note the rotor will turn some as it comes out. Remove the lines to the pump, you will have three bolts that come from the front cover side to remove the pump. Do not move the crank once the distributor has been removed. Clean the mounting surface, install the pump and tighten the three bolts, hook up the lines to the pump, fill with oil, install the distributor while lining the housing marks to the block and rotor to housing. You will need to start the gear a tooth back as needed to get everything to drop in place, install the wire and hold down retainer, replace cap, install sparkplug. Start engine and turn wheels while keeping check on oil level in pump. You should be at 0* TDC with the 188G engine, if it has the 159G engine it's 3* ATC if you want to put it on the money. Hope this helps you out
Sounds like a lot of work for power steering service, so to take the pump out the distributer needs to be removed? Thanks for the info.
I just need to mark the rotor and distributer housing, do I need to find top dead center?
You must put #1 cylinder top dead center before removing the distributor. If you don't follow Sheepfoot's instructions you will never get it running again.
How do I check the flywheel? Thanks for the info.
You should have a window below the starter to look into on the bell housing, You can also remove the valve cover, and #1 plug, turn the engine feeling the compression out of the cylinder, If coming up on TDC both front two rocker arms will be on the rock, loose between the rocker and valve. You may also need to clean the flywheel some to see the marks with some brake clean, light sand paper. Once you see the marks and get a mark, reverse turn your engine a little then bring it back to your mark to get the backlash out of the gear train. More if needed but try to get it in time before pulling the distributor, it's easier with a extra set of hands to turn the fan while you look for the timing marks. Also if you pull all the plugs it turns a lot easier. Always secure the loader if raised and working around/under it.
One last question which cylinder is number one is it the one closest to the radiator front of the machine or the one closest to the cab? If you can get me the firing order it would be nice to, I did find the plug in the housing and the marks on the flywheel I found the marks "10 20 30 40" but below 10 is a little rusty, and can't see anything else I am assuming that 0 is where I need to be, I pulled the plug on what I think is number one which is closest to the radiator and I can actually see the piston at TDC and the mark on the flywheel is at below the 10 mark, the rotor is pointing to number one, wondering if I am good to go ahead and remove the distributor, I am in uncharted waters here never really pulled a distributor before, and the last time I did pull a distributor was on 1972 firebird I was very young and had no idea what I was doing, If you could reassure me that I am headed in the right direction I would greatly appreciate it Thanks very much for the info!!
Yes Number 1 is at the front, there should be a line with a D and a C before and after, that line is your TDC at 0*. You could try some WD40 on a small wire brush that you find at a hobby store to clean it a little better. The closer you can be, and the distributor and rotor marked the easier it is to go back and not have to make a lot of adjustments. Your doing it the right way just find you lines.
Unless you have already pulled the wires out of the distributor cap just make a drawing of them to retain / remember the firing order.
A 3M "Scotchcode" wire marker dispenser and a digital camera are your friends when taking stuff apart that you want back together.
Thanks everyone for all the info I do feel confident to proceed with this job, I will not be pulling any wires from the cap they can just hang there, One other thing while I have been researching this I came across electronic ignition which replaces the points and there is no adjustments or moving parts there and they claim the motor run better since I have the distributer out should I install this electronic ignition?
I haven't heard any reviews about the electronic ignition that replaces points in a 580. I have changed over some old small engines because it was such a pain in the *** to pull the flywheel just to access the points. I never had any problems with any conversions but I still have the points in my 580CK because they work fine. I would wait until the distributor was reinstalled and the motor was running good before changing it over if you're going to - unless you have to pull it out to install the new set up. The distributor has good access when installed so it shouldn't be a problem. If you change more than one thing at a time you won't know what's to blame if it doesn't run good after you put the distributor back in. Is it off by a tooth or………? Some of those units need a resistor wired in line to protect the module if there's too much voltage and some need a special coil so I'd play it safe and get it running good first. I'd be interested to hear if you like the electronic ignition if you decide to go with it.
Thanks that's a good point, How will I know if I need a resister, there is a resister there already correct? As far as letting you know about the change over to electronic ignition, I must say that it is very slow going on rebuilding this backhoe I've got one day average a week to work on it so it will be awhile but I will post when I know. Plus the points that are on there now look very clean and for a machine that was sitting in farmers field it looks new so I think I will be waiting till its time to adjust or remove so it could be awhile.
I'm a big believer of "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." There's usually enough things to work on that you don't have time or money to fix the things that still work. I'd leave the points as long as they work OK. Mine fires right up everytime with points. The distributor caps tend to fit loosely so throw a tarp over it or park it under cover to help keep things dry in there. As far as the resistor goes, some of those electronic modules are sensitive and can't tolerate more than 14 volts so you may have to protect it with a resistor. Check the specs and ask the supplier or google it.
Yes everything does work fine right now hoping it will stay that way, but I like that idea of electronic ignition replacing the points, Thanks everyone Will post out come soon as I can.
So I take it your pump is on and the machine starts and runs good?. I would leave the points in it also, other things may need attention worse. Hate to fix things that are not broken also.