So, I am working on a toy that I bought this past summer, a Pettibone Extendo 88 High Lift: I am working on it this winter to get it ready for use next spring/summer. I am currently working on the parking brake. The machine has hydraulic brakes at the wheels, which don't work atm, as well as a hand lever operated parking brake at the rear of the transmission: The brake band was seriously wiped out, so I priced a new one. ~$187.00 for a new band. I thought that was absurd, so I put the band on my outdoor grille and heated the crap out of it, got the old brake lining material off. I was able to buy some new lining material: https://www.mcmaster.com/#6224k346/=15gyuhs At the moment I am shaping the new lining by clamping it between the band and the drum: When googling about how to re-line bands/shoes, Pliobond adhesive kept popping up, and seemed like the best solution for the adhesive. I bought some Pliobond 25 & 35: Has anyone here ever re-lined old shoes? I'm going with adhesive because that's how the original was assembled, and this is only a parking brake, so not applied when driving. I've read all the documentation on the Pliobond, and I must say it's a bit confusing. There are wet bonds, dry bonds, hot bonds, cold bonds, different materials use different adhesives, not sure I can mix them (put the 25 on the steel band, and the 35 on the fibrous lining material etc). Before I start gluing, I'm hoping maybe someone here has experience doing this kind of brake restoration and has tips/pointers on the bonding process.
I think I would try contacting a good brake repair shop, seems like there would be one in your area. Maybe find a place that works on truck brakes, not some place like Wallyworld!
Yair . . . As kshansen mentions the best bet probably would have been a brake shop. Over here I doubt a brake shop would be too thrilled if you rocked up with the linings and the band and probably would slug you rotten for the labour and glue. I have relined more brakes and clutches than I care to remember . . . when the "new" bonding process came out I never trusted it and always thought (in those days) it was a factory process. If I was in your position I would just drill it and screw on with 1/4" or 3/16" brass screws. I always preferred the screws to rivets, cut them off a few threads proud of the nut and peen them. A couple of notes after looking at your pictures. (In my experience) friction material such as that is normally applied in segments (say) about four inches long with about a quarter inch dust gap between each piece, it will conform to the band with little need for shaping, This is a very simple repair job but you will need a bench drill with accurate depth stops. Cheers.
If it was mine I would be drilling and using brass bolts, had a few electric brakes that the linings glue let go. The pic with the lining around the drum should have more space so the ends don't touch when the lining wears. My 2cts.
Well, the glue that was on the lining lasted 45 years, I just don't know what it was, no one seems to know, just keep getting advice to use rivets. I'm not sure the lining I have can be properly counterbored for rivets, it's only 3/16" think. And in the picture I am just clamping the lining between the drum and the band to get the shape correct, I was surprised how stiff the lining is. After bonding, the extra lining will be trimmed so the ends won't be anywhere near each other.
Park brake relining To solve the problem/question of your material being right to use, and rivet/glue applications, I suggest you do the following. Phone: Laycook Auto, Truck and Tractor Clutches, 259 Butler Ave, Memphis. TN 38126, 901-523-1418. Talk to him and describe your need:"as the relining of the park brake band off an old lift truck that had holes for rivets but was originally glued on". Answer his questions and get his instructions. Decide from the conversations what you want to do. If it was mine, I would put in a box, UPS to him with a letter saying call me (your number), with what you will do to it and how soon and how much cost. They rebuilt clutches and relined brake shoes for all kinds of forklifts; a 1600 IH road truck with the same brake band you show, for over 14 years for me with no-none-failures. They have been doing this since 1946 and I only found them in 1979 by word of mouth. Had you lived near Memphis, you could have dropped it by, maybe waited 30 minutes or picked it up a day later probably for about what you paid for lining and glue.
I used the heat bonding method at 300 degrees F that was recommended on the Pliobond can ( http://imgur.com/m5IgT2a ). Before I trimmed the ends of the lining, I mounted the band in a vise and tried to pull off the lining with vise grips, the bond looks to be stronger than the lining material itself, which is good. If I have to end up re-lining the shoes at the wheels on this machine, I'll call that place in TN. However, I'm pretty sure those shoes originally used rivets, so that's how I would do those.
Where did you find Pliobond? I looked around for it but was unable to source it. I used the same brake material to reline the parking brake on a 644E wheel loader, I belt sanded the parking brake shoes, turned the drum and used the agressive brake material, bonded with Marine JB weld shoe fitted to the drum and then c clamped in place to make a good fit. Works great, holds back the engine without fail. View attachment 154657 I'd love to source some pliobond to do the band brakes on my backhoe. If I was using Pliobond, I'd likely single coat the metal, double coat the shoe, clamp it before its fully dry, let it sit for a day, and while still clamped, put it in the bbq grille at say 300F for a while. What's the operating temperature of Pliobond? I used the JBweld and it worked, I did bake it at 250F for five hours to make sure it was fully cured and unclamped it the next week as I wasn't in a hurry.
I bought the Pliobond from the same place I got the lining material, McMaster-Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/#pliobond-adhesives/=15oi7z8
hmmm, I missed that one would love a side by side comparison, Marine JB weld is good for 600f and that's pretty hot for a parking brake.