Hey Y'all, I've done quite a few tires by hand, started my first job doing tires at a tire shop(automotive) but it was in a farm town.. I've done tires ranging from skid steer tires to larger tractor tires 16.9-28 . However I am having a heck of a time getting the bead of the tire to come over the rim. Has anyone done a tire dismount on a case? Does the tire have to come off opposite of the side of the valve steam? Currently dismounting from the valve steam side. I may just need to man up more LOL. Thanks!
You should be able to tell by the shape of the drop center which side it can come off. You do have the other half of the bead dropped into the center, the other half of the bead you're working over the rim has to be pushed into the center to give slack to go over the rim. And use lots of lube. And the right tools helps. Never hurts to be young.
Hi Delmer, I'll have to double check tomorrow, I don't feel like going back out to the barn tonight. But I feel like both sides were pretty similar. Yes I do(i should say think) have the other side/half of the bead dropped into the center to allow the side I'm spooning toe come over top. I may have it creeping up on me and not even realizing. I think one of the issues i'm having is I have 1 good sized tire spoon and need another.
I have found three tire tools, (two bars, and a spoon) work the best for me. I use a bar and bring the bead over the rim. I then replace that bar with the spoon and keep it there with either my foot, or a large "C" clamp and then use the bars to continue to work the bead up and over while standing on the opposite side of the tire sidewall keeping it in the drop center. The spoon remaining in place keeps the bead from slipping. Use plenty of dish soap/water mix for lubricant and a swab to apply it.
Well! I just needed to man up a little, tires off and patched. Tonights job get it back on
Murphy's tire soap is great for mounting and works good to seal big gaps when filling with air. I watched a guy at a commercial tire shop mount a huge skidder tire. He used the crane on his truck to push the rim past the first bead. Then he flipped it over and used a long tire iron to get the other bead on. He took a couple handfulls of the tire soap and threw it around the gaps. After the bead popped on, he scooped up the tire soap and threw it back in the pail. There's a video online of someone using it to fill gaps on a backhoe tire too. I think A-1 tire did the video.
Hi welder, I got the tire back on tonight. In regards to the gaps, i assume you mean the gap between the tire and rim to seat the bead. I just use ether, have to be careful but it works well.
Tire soap is much safer and no risk of injury or damage to the tire. Have seen video's of using ether gone bad.
I've used ether a lot in the years gone past. When moving mobile homes seeming many of those had flat tires under the trailer. Nary a problem but I don't get stupid with it and always use a lock on tire chuck with the air flowing before sparking it off. Three short squirts around the tire bead equally spaced is all that's needed; not a flood of spray. I purchase the tire soap in gallon pails and it works well to seal small gaps to bead seat. As it squeezes out I scoop it up and put it back into the pail. Used correctly very little stays with the tire.
It was pretty big gaps I saw the tire soap was effective. Enough you could have stuck 4 fingers in. I was quite surprised how well it worked.
The tire soap and a ratchet strap around the perimeter, (centered in the tread) of the tire works well if the thing has been setting with the beads busted loose a spell. Just need to break that strap loose just as soon as the tire takes air or you'll not get it loose..... Tire soap does work very well with a single bead broken loose but when both are loose, the ratchet strap and soap is the trick. That said, the bead blaster tank is a very good solution too if available. I don't have one but keep threatening to make purchase.
Thought you just made them out of an old propane tank. lol
I haven't saved enough nickels yet to afford an aluminum one but do continue. I actually have everything to make one but haven't yet. Surplus 30# propane tank from a camper, 2" ball valve, 2" threaded bung, 1/2" threaded bung, and a 150psi relief valve in the shop on a shelf. Even have a 4' section of 2" pipe and dies to thread it. Everything but motivation.....
Check out the air blasters this guy uses. He gets them out of his truck at about the 6 minute frame. The 38L tank he has costs is in excess of $800.00.