I've been meaning to try this grease for a while and finally got around to ordering it. It looks like good thick grease that should stay in the pins well. Being #1 grade I should be okay using it here in FL. I messaged them before and was told they put protective caps on the aluminum pop top end which no other company does but these arrived in plain white tubes with no such cap. As usual they had some flat spotted ends from the shipper throwing the boxes around but it is minimal. It was packed nice in a box in a box. According to the details they say: "Currently this is Shell product pumped from sealed drums into our tubes and sold as generic replacement. In stock and ready to ship. Republic Oil High Temp Lithium Complex 5% Moly #1 NLGI 1. 10 tubes of High quality brand named 5% Moly Lithium Complex NLGI #1 grease. This is a gray/black Moly grease excellent for pins, bushings, fifth wheels and many Industrial Heavy duty construction and mining applications. 464F Drop. See pictures for exact product we are repackaging from drums and kegs. If you are looking for high quality grease for less and don't care about flashy packaging then here you go." https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BNF54VV9?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
I ordered a similar product from Amazon. It was in a 5 gallon pail. Was previously using the Schaeffer Manufacturing Co. 02212-040 Moly Ultra EP Grease, NLGI #2, 40 lb. Pail Scheaffers was over $300, and the Republic is just over $100. For me it was a no brainer...heck I bought 3 5 gallon pails...LOL Below are the links to the two products I am talking about. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CH566B2Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0113XAXEU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
No it isn't. NGLI #1 is a less viscous grease than an NLGI #2. If you were pumping it through an autolube system it might be a good idea. #1 is much more pumpable than #2. If you are applying it using a hand or power grease gun then you really need an NLGI #2 grease. Also - do NOT use this grease on any high-speed bearings such as fans, alternators, etc, etc. 5% moly grease is designed to be used in high-load low-speed applications equipped with plain bushes, not roller/ball bearings.
Agree. Moly (molybdenum disulfide) grease is specifically designed for use in low speed very close tolerance (thousandths) fitments, such as pins/bushings. In those applications the close tolerance isn't enough gap for lubrication using high speed/high temp bearing grease. The moly additive creates a very thin lubricating film with a very low friction coefficient in close tolerance applications. Pins/bushings, NLGI #2 5% moly.
I don't know why I was thinking 1 was thicker than 2. This may not be the best for my pins. As far as moly in wheel bearings go I have used nothing but Valvoline Ford/Lincoln moly wheel bearing grease in wheel bearings for all of my mechanical life. NEVER had a bearing fail with it. It doesn't stay in the backhoe pins like the 5% does.
Well, you've already purchased it so don't throw money out the window. It will work, but will likely "wash out" quicker because of low viscosity. Lube often, and wipe up the excess that leaks out.
They have no2 moly grease I just ordered a case ill see how it compares to the cat 5 percent number 2. It's half the price we will see!
I’ve been buying Chevron 5% moly. Last time I bought it was under $50 for a case. No idea what it is now but I would assume somewhere around there.
I've never seen it that cheap. It's around $7 a tube. A case is roughly $300. I have like 5 or 6 cases of old stock I got for $25 a box.
#1 NLGI will pour like Mrs. Butterworth's syrup, on a hot July day in FL.
I'm currently using Schaeffers as well, and almost out. I looked at the price recently and almost fell off my bike. It's nice to hear of other options that are much less expensive.
Not the Cenex MolyExtreme that I use. I think it would have to be 140° to get that stuff to move. It is a #1. Under 40° you can't hardly pump it with a 20V Lincoln. I actually quit using it in my scrapers because I was having some pin/bushing issues. Switched to Maxtron EP that is semi-synthetic and a 3% moly. Seems to work a lot better. The problem I feel isn't necessarily the grease, but the design of the joints. They use the sperical bushings, but there is only one grease fitting on the outside. The grease must go through the outer race, around the ball, and through the ball to get to the pin. On those gate joints where each cycle creates around 240° of rotation, it seems to be ok. On the joints that only see about 30-90° of movement, not so much. And I promise it's not from not using enough grease. We went through between 300 and 400 tubes of grease last year.
I had some P66 Megaplex I used a couple weeks ago. That stuff is poop. Like a hot glue gun from hell with the strings, but somehow it half washes off the equipment and turns white like old dog turds. I'm too cheap to throw the rest out though
That’s interesting. Although, doesn’t surprise me. The blenders get creative with their interpretation of ASTM D2265.