Hi all, I'm trying to grease the fittings on the undercarriage of this machine. The roller bearing grease fitting on one side, and the track adjuster grease fittings on both sides will not take grease. I replaced the zerks, cleaned them out with PB Blaster, let them sit for a few days, tried a grease fitting rejuvenator, etc. Nothing seems to work. On some of the other stubborn fittings on this machine, I was able to take them apart and clear the blockage manually. I don't see an easy way to do that on these. Any ideas? Here's the grease fitting on the track adjuster... And here's the grease fitting on the roller bearing... Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated!
Your 2nd photo it is likely that removal of the track frame to clean out the grease passages will be the answer. Do this sooner rather than later because if bushings/pins start to be eaten away inside the repair will get expensive very quickly.
Hey Nige... sorry to go off topic... but what’s the best way to remove those bushings in the track frame? Cut out the floating conical portion and then weld around the bushing to pop out? Mine were Not taking grease when I got my machine but I haven’t fixed because they look like a beast to remove! as for the track adjuster... it’s weird that it won’t take grease...can you loosen it and push in the front roller to purge the old grease out?
Not off-topic at all... I'd like to know as well since I'm probably going to have to do it. I'm not sure, but it's worth a shot. I've tried everything else I can think of.
I just watched a video on YouTube that shows how to remove the tracks on these machines. It looks like the grease in the track adjuster is what pushes the idler out and keeps tension on the tracks. My track tension is fine. In fact, the dealer just installed new tracks last year when the machine was in the shop. This might be a dumb question, but are these grease fittings on the track adjusters something I even need to mess with right now? Or is it only something that's done when adjusting the tracks? Does the machine need to be jacked up off the ground for the fitting to take grease? This is my first tracked machine so I'm fairly new to how tracks operate. Any suggestions for getting at those roller bearings/bushings would be greatly appreciated as well. I definitely want to get that thing greased up.
You only put grease in the adjuster when the tracks need to be adjusted. If the tracks are already "tight" it probably won't take grease because the track is already tightened as far as I can go, probably too tight now. Do you have an operator manual for it? If not, you need to get one and read it through, especially if this is your first CTL. Cats usually have it teathered to the cab and it sits in a pocket behind the seat, if it's not there go get one, it will explain all grease points, operation, maintainance schedule, and fluid types required. As far as working on the track frame mounts, you probably need to remove the whole track frame and clean out the grease grooves to allow it to take grease again. It has been discussed here before. You could probably search "299 won't take grease" or just "299".
Got it! I'll leave the track adjusters alone for now. Hopefully I didn't screw them up by messing with them.
Definitely. If you don’t have an Operation & Maintenance manual there are a few options to get hold of a replacement. You can either download one as a pdf document, buy a CD with the same pdf document on it, or get a paper one. I’ll take a look to see if there are any offers out there and let you know.
I have the manual -- I just didn't read about the track adjusters I saw the grease fittings and figured I'd grease them like everything else. My machine is missing the metal plates that cover the adjusters, so I didn't get the hint that they weren't supposed to be greased regularly. Anyway, my problem now is the rear bearing. Pretty sure I'm going to have to pull the track frame. Do you think I could slide it out far enough to clean the grease passages in the bushing without removing the track and disconnecting all of the hydraulic hoses?
I was able to slide the track frame away from the body of the machine without unhooking the hoses or removing the tracks. The bearing has two holes on the inside. I picked out as much of the gunk from the holes as I could, reassembled it, and tried to grease it up. I thought it might break through but it didn't. I guess I'll have to try again and take more of the bearing apart.
A bit late now I know, but wouldn't trying to push grease through the bearing while it was paritally disassembled have been a good idea.?
I tried, it didn't work. I'm trying to get the snap ring off so I can pull the bearing. That seems to be the only option at this point.
If you resort to hitting the bearing to get it out you'll need to be careful. Those spherical bearings can be very brittle when hit in a certain way and could shatter. Use a block of wood or a brass drift for preference.
I made some progress… I think. Despite my best efforts, I haven’t been able to remove the snap ring. It’s rusted in there pretty good. I believe the track would need to be removed to get better access and leverage. However, I did get part of the blockage to break free with a combination of PB Blaster, the grease fitting rejuvenator, and just forcing grease in with the grease gun. Now, grease is moving through the fitting and coming out between the snap ring (see attached photo). The grease is not making its way into the actual bearing though. I’m hoping a little more soaking with PB Blaster will eventually do the trick. I picked out as much of the blockages as I could from the grease passages with a bent piece of wire, but it must still be blocked somewhere.
Try knocking the bearing inwards using a drift in between the two ends of the snap ring, away from the snap ring in other words, to try to free it. You may have to destroy the snap ring in order to get it out. Looking at the bearing surface on the spherical part it looks foobarbed from lack of grease TBH. At least if grease is coming out between the bearing and the housing the old one shouldn't be that hard to get out.
Well, I'm not sure how, but I got the snap ring removed. What a job! Took lots of creativity and grunt. Anyway, now that the snap ring is gone I'll try to get the bearing out. I guess I'll cut a block of wood to fit and try knocking it out. If that doesn't work maybe I can get some sort of bearing puller?
Got it! A few hours of PB Blaster, blowtorch, and smacking it with a sledgehammer and I finally got the bearing out. It actually cracked on the way out (see photo). I ordered a new bearing. Hopefully it goes back together easier than it came apart. I also ordered a fancy electric grease gun. No excuses for not keeping this machine greased moving forward. Thanks everyone for your help with this!
That's what I was afraid of - that if you hit it too hard or simply hit it in just the wrong/right place it would crack. When you come to install the new bearing polish the bejasus out of the track frame bore and also leave the new bearing in your deep freeze ovenight to have the best chance that it will simply tap into place. If there is any rust in the snap ring groove clean it well before you install the new bearing. When you are driving the new one into place, only hit it on the outside ring, do not hit the spherical part. A piece of appropriate diameter thick-wall tubing would make a good driver.
One trick I use for cleaning out a bore, is to take a grd-8 1/4" bolt (5-6" long) cut off the head and threads off (I need the straight section, or plain rod would work if you have it) Take a hacksaw, clamp in vise with about 1" sticking up, and make a slit down the middle for a strip of sand paper. Chuck this in your die grinder, and put a small strip in there, make sure to center the strip in the shaft, so it doesn't want to fly out.
I got the bearing installed. Cleaned out the housing with a wire brush on the end of a drill. I took @Nige 's advice and left the bearing in the freezer overnight. It went in without a ton of effort. I just greased the housing lightly and then tapped the bearing into place with a hammer and a piece of square tubing. I did notice what appears to be a hairline crack in the outer part of the bearing. Not sure if I tapped it too hard or what, but I'm leaving it like that for now. Thanks everyone for your help. This site has become quite a valuable resource for me as I work on this machine.
Most of the ones I have put in wind up with that hairline crack in the outer bearing race. It wont affect the bearing once it is in. Those bearings on the rear of those machines are a terrible design if you ask me, and it seems Cat agreed, as the newer models have the straight through design that the front bearing has. You have to grease those chassis bearings every few hours in order to keep them alive, and even then, those rear bearings quit taking grease after awhile. Every one I have ever seen is loose.
I’ve moved on to the other side of the machine. The rear axle is rusted to the track frame and it won’t budge. PB Blaster, blowtorch, pry bars, chain binder, etc. I even tried putting a small jack between the machine and the track frame. Nothing. Any tricks I should try?
Heat up the bearing. if it doesn't move get it hotter. I don't know what you are using for a torch, but it a propane torch won't do. Anything will move if you get it hot enough . . . You will destroy the bearing, but it should probably be replaced anyway.
Got it, thanks! I’m using a propane/butane torch like a plumber would use to solder copper fittings, but I’ll try to get it hotter. I’ve been hitting it with PB Blaster every time I walk by as well.
An Oxy-Acetelyne torch is the only way to get such parts hot enough. A propane torch simply doesn't burn hot enough. The inner race of the bearing needs to be at least a dull red all the way around, and may have to be hotter than even that if things are real bad. This is just me, but all the PB blaster is doing is adding fuel to burn and nasty smoke to sear your eyes when you heat it ...
I went out and got an oxy-acetylene torch. I'll let you know it goes.
Well, the oxy-acetylene torch didn't do it. Got the inner part of the bearing pretty hot but it wouldn't release. I couldn't get it any more than a dull red -- it would cool as soon as I moved to a different spot. I tried heating it three separate times and still nothing. Went through a whole tank of acetylene. The inner part of the bearing has a lot of wiggle room around it, between it and the outer part of the bearing. I'm wondering if I can drill a hole through the length of it and then split it with an air chisel. I could then do the same to the outer part of the bearing. They seem really brittle and prone to cracking as it is. Might as well exploit it?
You didn't buy a Harbor Freight mini-torch did you.? It will need a full-size torch to heat that bearing. If you succeed then let everyone know how you did it. Oh, and BTW you'll be rich. Those bearings are harder than a hard thing and AFAIK no drill bit ever made will even so much as scratch them.
Well, sounds like you need more torch. Those little tiny ones you get at Home Depot don't really cut it. Also, you will run through those little tanks in pretty short order, as you seem to have found out. Do you have the track off? Is the front axle housing off the track frame? There are like 8 big bolts holding it to the frame, you need to make sure that the front is free so it doesn't bind up and cause problems moving the back. This may sound stupid, but the round retaining plate that bolts to the end of the axle holding the track frame on is removed? Sorry, I don't mean to be insulting, but stranger things have happened. From what it sounds like, all other factors being removed, the bearing needs to get hotter. Really hot. Then put your bottle jack between the track frame and the machine as close to the bearing as possible and push. Worst case scenario I would just smoke the bearing out with the torch, but I am not sure I would recommend trying that if you just picked up a torch for the first time yesterday. You can make a real mess out of things in a hurry with a torch if you don't know what you are doing.
Also, air hammering on bearing races is a real good way to take a piece of shrapnel to the face. I know guys who have lost eyes to that.
Surprisingly, I was able to drill about 1/8” before it ruined the bit. Didn’t work though. I’ve got the retaining plate and bolts off both axles. The tracks are still on. The front will slide in and out 2-3”. I can take the tracks off and remove those 8 bolts if you think it would help. Maybe it would let me twist the track frame a bit more to break it loose. The torch I have is just a small portable kit. Sounds like I need more firepower.
I would take the track off. That is an extra 500 pounds or whatever that is just working against you, especially if you don't have another machine. It is also a lot easier to access everything with the track off. Once the track is off, take the front axle bracket thing off, and then with the machine on jack stands (remember you have over 9,000lbs there = no little car jack stands) put a wheeled floor jack under the track frame. This will give you good control over the track frame. You want the track frame about parallel to the machine frame, and lifted so that it is kind of floating in the freeplay of the bearing. Basically no tension any direction if possible. You have to eliminate binding from the rather large and heavy track frame from interfering with you trying to separate the bearing from the axle.
I'll take the tracks off as soon as I get the alternator back from the shop (can't start the machine currently). I'm also going to see if the local welding shop can set me up with a larger tip and some larger tanks. I don't think the tip I was using puts out enough heat. I was using a welding tip and I think I need a heating/rosebud tip and the larger tanks to match. I can take a house apart and put it back together with my eyes closed, but this mechanical stuff is somewhat new to me. This machine is forcing me to learn a lot!
You need a cutting tip. A welding tip is never really used for heating things up like you are trying to do. You can get a rosebud tip, but I doubt you need it for what you are doing, and they can be tricky or dangerous if you are using small tanks.
Good to know. I have a cutting tip but I wasn't cutting so I didn't think to use it. The videos I could find all used the welding tip, but they were heating small bolts, not large bearings. I'll give it a shot once I get the tracks off and tanks refilled. Thanks!
I don't know about the YouTube mechanics, but in 20 years I can probably count on my hands the times I or anybody else around me has used a welding tip ... Use the cutting tip, just don't touch the oxygen ....
I ended up taking the machine to the dealer. I was trying to remove the track to get better access to the bushing, and I discovered that the track adjuster would take grease and tighten the track, but it wouldn’t release and loosen the track. Tried just about everything, even a 20 ton bottle jack with the machine wedged between two trees. Nothing. It wouldn’t budge despite the tracks being changed only 6 months ago. I called the dealer and they walked me through the service manual. We got to the step where you cut the coil spring with a torch while using a mirror so you don’t get hit with the shrapnel. At that point, I just loaded the machine up and took it to the dealer. We’ll see what happens. They’re way behind so it will probably be a while. After this I don’t know what else could go wrong with the machine. Just about every component has been repaired or replaced. I might finally get to use it for some actual work!
When you loosened the grease fitting with a 17mm socket did any grease come out from behind the fitting at all?
No, nothing ever came out.