So I am working on rebuilding/resealing the injection pump on my john deere 4020. This tractor is new to me so I do not know the history. I've had it a couple months now and when I tried to use it a week ago it would not hold rpm's; bump the throttle slightly and it would rev over 2000 rpm's, bump it down slightly and it would die. This tractor has the roosa master stanadyne injection pump DBGVC633-3AJ. I bought a seal kit and new pilot tube. I got the pump apart. The only issue I had was the plug covering the cam advance screw. It was stuck pretty tight! The actual cam advance screw came out relatively easy. So, I have everything apart. The governor flex ring is completely gone and the rivets on the weight retainer basket are worn down considerably. Probably less than half remaining. I drove out the pilot tube and it is longer than the one I bought (#16320). Looks like john deere used a shorter version. So my questions are: with the rivets worn down on the weight retainer, what all do I need to convert to the newer eid governor ring? Honestly, I would be ok using the old flex ring design, but since I need a new weight retainer basket, I think I should go ahead with the upgraded parts. Also, What part number is the shorter pilot tube and what epoxy should I use? Hopefully something locally available! Thanks for all the help. I have read a bunch of posts on here before I even started on this. .
I'm fairly sure that this is where I got my parts, but it's been more than 10 years ago: https://usdieselparts.com/i-2406920...y-diesel-injection-pumps.html?ref=brand:83654 https://usdieselparts.com/i-2272942...tanadyne-db-jdb-dc-pumps.html?ref=brand:83654 Anyway, mine was off an Allis Chalmers M65 motor grader. I didn't have to have a new pilot tube. I think that Loktite makes some product that's fuel resistant.
The new weight basket is a 29111 if your flyweights have a sharp heel where it pivots in the basket.. If round, THATS a different part number.. R u SURE that pilot tube is shorter than a 16320.?? I’ve never seen one that is.!! Not on a JD.. I know that’s a stupid question but.. Just set them side by side.. If u need a shorter one, the part number is 16323.. when pushed in correctly, the end of the tube will be flush w the inside of the pump. There is a specific dimension that the tube protrusion must be.. THIS IS WHY there isn’t much information to be found.. UR NOT supposed to be f’ing around with the injection pump.!!! U don’t have the proper tooling or the know-how.. U may just end up blowing your motor up.!! & by the sounds of it, u were dam close before the pump came off.. Just find some 2 part 10 minute epoxy.. mix it well and fill in the grooves on the p tube.. wipe off any excess from around the tube after u press it in.. U HAVE TO let it sit for 24 hrs or put it in an oven set at 350* for 30-45 minutes.. Good luck.. If u find it’s WAY over your head, I’m always available to do it..
Thanks for the information. I think the pilot tube was replaced before with the shorter tube. It was not flush on the inside of the pump housing. It was set down maybe a quarter inch, I didn't measure the depth. I measured a protrusion of 0.315" before I removed the old one. If I install the longer tube flush on the inside, it will protrude 0.290".
Let me go measure my tool before u end up w a mess on your hands. The things I do for u guys.!!! (Cut’n into my mailbox money) I know.. nobody’s forcing me.. Give me a few minutes.
How about sending me a picture of the front of the pump housing.. Send it to my screen name: ataoldotcom It’ll be easier than loading it here (I think) I ran all those together so it wouldn’t get booted, but u know how to do it..
Just test fit the new tube..(NO epoxy) Don’t worry about the inside just yet. Press the tube in to the correct protrusion and then look at the inside of the housing..