Hey all - Putting an RTO9513 13 speed transmission in my truck. Transmission is used and I don't know history on it other than it was installed in someone elses project that was never completed. So I know its not junk, but don't know when it was last rebuilt or anything. I took the top off and flushed a little diesel around in the bottom. Not much sludge and no real shrapnel to see. What do you typically see when you look in one of these thats heavily worn? Will you see wear in the teeth? Other stranger thing I found - the bolt that hold the center shift gate on the rail had been hitting a gear on the main shaft. No clue how this happened. No play I could see in the mainshaft, and if there was that much, I think I would have seen the forks all messed up and they looked fine. Don't know if someone put a different bolt or top on it in the past and started the truck and it just made an awful noise for a minute and then ground it off?? I don't see how it could have happened gradually. I shortened the bolt by a quarter inch and machined it back to the taper its supposed to have and now it has clearance, but wondering if anyone has seen this happen.
Not easy to tell from photos but it really doesn't look terrible. I don't know how deep you want to dive into it but you should be able to give the main box a pretty good visual inspection through the top cover and the PTO covers if it has them. You'd have to pull the aux box if you wanted to check it out more thoroughly. If there's no heavy wear on the gears, pits you can catch with a pick, etching, rust etc they're probably going to be just fine. You should be able to manually shift it through the gears on the floor too with regulated shop air. Only problem is unless you put it under the kind of torque you would while loaded you won't know if it will kick out of gear. Best you can do is give the sliding gears on the mainshaft a good inspection. If the dogs are worn/tapered it'll likely kick out of gear under load.
It's got some miles on it, the sliding clutches don't look too bad. The real issue is the splitter fork in the rear section, the early boxes up through 14613 the splitter is located at the rear of back section and no real way to inspect. Those forks wear real bad from pre-selecting splits. Know those early boxes are course tooth count up to the 12513. Just prepare yourself for a whining-rattly gear box-some make terrible harmonic rattle at idle and scream in overdrive, did that from new/day one. * As far as that bolt in the wrong spot installed in the corner of the top cover/shift bar housing, locking a counter shaft that's a real common Fack Up for a Rookie. Before installing the shift bar housing remove the slave valve, spring and detent from the main case, otherwise it can cause a issue when installing shift bar housing . I have seen many a front case damaged from not removing first. * Has this gearbox been upgraded to a 2" input shaft or is it a 1 3/4"? This gear box should have a aluminum bell housing, all 9513's did.
So if the rear splitter is worn, what will be my sign to dig into it? Poor splits when I go to drive this thing? Can that be serviced without pulling the transmission? Attempting to avoid pulling it back out as right now I have the cab off the truck and can drop it in with a forklift from the top. I don't have a transmission jack for one of these should I have to remove it. I put the tower back on and it will go into all the slots but doesn't feel like it gets in all the way. I don't see the notch in the shift bars making it back to where the detent ball engages. I started to wonder if these had to do with the slave mechanism and sort of wanted to see if I could put shop air to it and see if switches ranges corrected this or if I messed something up. I'll pull the slave off and see what happens. I've checked 3 times that the forks are where they need to be and made sure everything in the transmission moved easily by hand so I think its something in the top cover. Its an 1 3/4" input. I didn't think it had an aluminum bell housing. I will check. Was the 2" upgrade because the 1 3/4 is prone to twist off? This is going behind a DT466 so don't think it will have the balls to hurt it. Not really worried if its loud. I think this old 13 speed it pretty neat. This is just a nonsense project, but I am really enjoying working on it the same a lot of guys do a classic car. I do really appreciate the help and advice I get here. Truck Shop - I wish I could buy you a few beers or something. You've helped me out a lot.
It won't stay engaged in overdrive, it will slip out of gear with splitter button in overdrive position. Set the transmission level, make sure all three sliding clutches on the main shaft are in neutral position/centered between gears. Make sure notches in shift dogs are all lined up in neutral and lower shift bar housing straight down engaging shift forks with sliding clutches. In order to put air to it to make range selections you must plumb air to the regulator at the back of transmission. Regulator sets air pressure at 65 psi max. Then you will need to plumb all the air lines from shift control knob to there proper locations at slave and splitter valves. The front of the slave fitting is S-red for supply, rear fitting is P-black for pilot, fitting teed at 1/4 hose going to upper range cylinder at top rear of transmission is H/L green for high/low, SP-blue for splitter located at back bottom of transmission. And this depends on if you are using the late A-6913 shift control knob. I convert all to 5/32" air line from the old 1/8" shift control air line. Easier to get the 5/32 pushlock fittings and air line. The 1 3/4" was changed to 2" when the 12513 came along for higher torque engines and is still used today.
Gotta hand it to you, Truck Shop. Nailed it... Now off to see if I can track one down....
If you can't find one-I have one rolling around in my crap tray in my tool box.
what is that?I have an old worn out RTO9513 as well and it does not split I just have low range and over drive.
Pin depends on which range valve you have. Could be #55, or #60 in the attachements. Probably #55 from your photo. Having the part number(s) will easily allow you to track one down.
Unless slave was changed-a 9513 would have had a 4688 slave valve. A photo of slave please.
It looks like the 4688 to me. Thanks for uploading the parts breakdown. I didn't have that. I found what I believe is the correct part online and ordered it. It was all of 15 dollars with shipping so if its wrong I won't be too heartbroken. It also looks like anyone with some basic lathe skills (not me) could make this pretty easily. I think if worst came to worst I could bribe one of the machinists at work to make me one. Got the transmission back in the truck yesterday. I think I would have about rather wrestled a grizzly bear. If I have to take this back out I will be in the market for a proper jack for one of these. Got the cab set back on too. Progress!