The issue im having is neither track wants to move on its own but when you press both it goes quick fowards and backward on flat ground. Going up hill now it struggles now . This just started happening the last time i used it before the only issue was the right track was weaker. What should i start looking at first?
First, look at your tracks. Is the sag set correctly or are they tight like banjo strings? Do the boxes still have oil? Does your engine reach full rpm? Is your engine lugging down when this occurs? Do all other functions perform correctly? What are your cycle times. Time each function at full throttle, arm in/out and bucket curl/dump are the 2 most critical for now. Do you have gauges to check pressures? Remove your case drain filter and pour the contents into a clean pan. Look closely for glitter. Don't be alarmed by small shavings of vinyl but yellow metal is something we don't want to see. Do you have high and low speed travel? Does low speed work? Remove and inspect tank return filter. Carefully check the well that it rests in. Again looking for metal shavings, broken bits. CAUTION, BITS MAY BE SHARP! TAKE SPECIAL CARE NOT TO PUSH THE DEBRIS INTO THE LARGE CENTER HOLE! Do NOT remove the strainer screen unless you have drained the tank. Please report back with your findings. BTW, swing by new member introductions and introduce yourself and let everyone know what you're up to. Lots of good folks willing to share, but you gotta share a little too.
Thanks for your quick reply. The tracks i just checked and set recently about 3 to 4 fingers. By boxes im guessing the final drives, i have not checked the oil level yet. I think it reaches full rpms as i have no gauges that work, actually none of the electronics that control the engine or hydraulics work. I just lock the manual throttle as far as itll go. I timed the bucket and stick movements they are both between 5-7 secs for full range of motion. I did however well before this turn the flow rate down because of how jerky everything was at full rpms. I do have gauges. I have not pulled the case drain yet im not sure on the location of it. It does have 2 speeds of travel but like i said the electronics dont work but it feels like it kicks into high speed when you press all the way forward or reverse. I had the filters out when i first got the machine and looked at them and dont remember seeing anything alarming just an ungodly amount of water in the system so i drained the tank and only got 55gals out with all the cylinders retacted so i ended up adding about 70 back. It probably needs another flush but hydraulic fuild isnt cheap so i gotta wait on that.
For setting track tension, raise one track off the ground. Measure from the bottom of the track frame to top of the hanging pads in center. Should be around 11-12½ inches depending on whether you're in dirt, gravel or sand. Your cycle times sound good for the work equipment. Lets try and narrow your problem down. With your track in the air and sag adjusted, paint one pad so you can see it clearly. In high speed travel, measure time to make 3 complete track revolutions fwd & rvr write it all down. Then do low speed. Then, do the other side. Observe your chain, make sure there's no seized pins, weird kinks or anything like that working against you. Don't forget to check the oil in the 'final drives' first. How did you turn the flow down? With that little potentiometer screw thing, or a physical adjustment at the pump?
Ill double check the track sag and should be able to check the other stuff later this week. There are definitely a few seized pins they have that permanent kink to them. I had adjusted the set screw on the face of the pump and from what i read on it every 1/4 turn lowered the flow rate 17 liters per minute. Its that yellow set screw to the left on the grey pump.
Swivel joint news resealing.
that is what I was thinking. it is leaking from one to the adjacent, so when you mash both pedals the travel works.
I had thought that too but i saw another post on here saying if you lift one track in the air and try and move the one on the ground if the one in the air moves the swivel is whats leaking. So i had tried that and the raised track didnt move.
So i got around to checking the final drive oil. It was terrible and way too much in there, i pulled almost a full 5gal buckets worth after draining them. They only took about a gal per side when filled back up. For the track sag they might be a lil too tight didnt have a measuring tape with me tho. Didnt get the cycle times in hi/low track speed yet but i did find out the electronic switch for the hi/low speed works. So i moved it around in the low speed and it crawled everything it was before up and down the hills and it didnt try to stall the engine at all. So im wondering if the issue could be caused by it being in high speed. Maybe because none of the other electronics work its missing something that controls the high speed?