I created this thread to hopefully discuss komatsu dozers, in order to help people like myself that have a komatsu dozer and have questions about them.
Welcome rangerfreak Welcome aboard rangerfreak:drinkup , I'm not a Komatsu expert but there are a few guys here that do qualify. So fire away and someone will probly answer all your questions.
Welcome to HEF rangerfreak! :drinkup
thank you for your warm welcome im loving this forum its been a big help
Welcome Hi, n00b here too!!! FWIW, I have a D20-P6. Just bought it about 3 weeks ago...I have both the repair and the operation/service manual. I'm by no means any sort of expert but, if you have any questions you think might be covered in the manuals, I may be able to find the info and answer them.
question about dip stick on my new dozer or should i say used dozer there 3 dipsticks one is under the hood which i know is the oil stick, then there is one right underneath the seat what is this one?and what is the one underneath the brake peddle on the right.Also what specific fluid should i use on each one. thank you for your time and have a nice day P.S how do i tighten my tracks
Rangerfreak, All my documentation is at home, I'll look at the manual and post the exact answers for you this evening. I do know that the hydraulic system does NOT use regular hydraulic fluid. Take care, Randy PS - I ordered my Operation/Service manual from this outfit: www.manuals.us The repair manual came with the dozer (the prior owner had bought it)
need to know how to tighten tracks Was wondering how to tighten my tracks on my komatsu d20A-5
iv been useing regular hydraulic fluid is this bad iv heard that 10w-40 motor oil is a choice but i have been using regular ro anti wear hydraulic fluid
Right. I'll scan the pages and post them for you when I get home.
One is the transmission and the other is the clutch. To tighten the tracks: take off the access plate on the track cover, put your grease gun on the zerk and pump to tighten the tracks. Go slow, it doesn't take very much. I think that the book says 30w oil in the trans, finals and transfer case (D21), 10W in the clutch and hydraulic tank.
Komatsu D21 Howdy guys I am a new owner of an old Kom D21P-6. Been pushing a lot of brush and smaller trees with it. It runs mighty good. I can't make new posts yet. I just bought a new hydraulic filter for it today. Can't get one from anywhere but Komatsu ... but all other filters are available from normal sources. I have ordered all the manuals from SSB Tractor. So far, I have changed all fluids and filters. Welded on it for 3 days. Adjusted all linkages. Installed a new coolant temp gauge and an oil press gauge. Rewired some stuff on it. Adjusted the tracks by the book. Been told I got screwed when I bought it. Found out I can't find another one anywhere around here and the guy who said I got screwed wants to sell me one for over twice what I paid for this one....ha ha ha ha ha ha......the jerk!!!!! So far, it has done really well for me, but then, I never even ran one before, so can't really compare it with anything, but my tractor...ha ha Hope to see more posts about these machines. Thanks, Pete in MS
Welcome to Heavy Equipment Forums kc5gxc!!:drinkup I've upgraded your account so you may start threads now. Thanks for joining us!!
question newbie here (there is a finals dip stick too as well as a transfer case dip stick along with a transmission dip stick as well?)
Here you go... Dipstick locations . Final drive oil level . Track adjustment. Fluid specfications. . Hope this helps some. Let me know if there's anything else I can do.
thanks a bundle for your help
Not a problem. Take care. RL
dozer question :drinkup i have just a few questions about my d20A-5 dozer A:is there a fuse box and where is it B:does anybody have an colored picture of the grease fitting area where you tighten the tracks. C:how do i get the plugs out so that i check out the fluid level of the final drive on the back of the dozer. Thank you for your time and have a nice day
It's under the rectangular black cover on the left side of the dash panel...at least that's where it is on a -6...you have a -5, right? Look at the long steel cover that covers the side of the track frame. There's a smaller cover built into that big piece of steel. The zerk is under there. I think that uses a large allen wrench...maybe 12mm or 14mm? You can get one at NAPA. They're used to remove differential and transmission plugs on foreign cars.
I have a -6, the plug has a square hole that fits a 1/2" breaker bar or ratchet nicely. (I.E. ratchet with no socket on it) If it's not square it may be an 8 point which still fits a square drive of the ratchet/b. bar.
I have a '96 D20P-7 To tighten the tracks remove the ram plate with a 17mm wrench. Theres a zerk in there. Pump a few squirts in there until the track droop is 20 to 30mm. Here's the lubricants guide for the D20/21 -6 and -7 Models.
Hi Steve Thanks for the upgrade. If anyone needs any book info on the D21, I got the books. Pete
Getting ready to purchase. Any advice? After a few months of checking around, I think I have narrowed my dozer of choice down to either the D20 or D21 Komatsu. As a newbie, many, many questions remain: 1. Is the D20 transmission stronger and more reliable than the D21? 2. Have you owners found the Japanese Komatsu grey market dozers to be well maintained off the boat? 3. Is there any one major problem on this dozer to be careful of? 4. When purchased should I renew all fluids and filters automatically, or go by the hour meter? 5. What would be a good loaded mile charge to transport the dozer to my home? 6. Is the price of $14,000 to $18,000 too high for this dozer in the 2,000 hour range? I have about 130 acres in central Mississippi and the dozer would be used for light grading off of old terraces and small tree and brush clearing. I have looked at two JD450B's but both were junk with smoking exhaust and 0% track time left. Thanks for the help. WD
D20 observations... I'm really new to this and am, by NO means, any sort of expert. Here's what I've found out in my research: I wouldn't buy a 'D21' ...it's too easy to abuse that shuttleshift tranny and expensive to fix when it breaks. Look for rust..my '20 has a lot of rust around the radiator and the deck plate is rusted to the point that I'm probably going to have to weld on a backing plate. The belly pan has a rust hole too. The '-5' is pre 1989 (I think). I have heard that they are more difficult to get repair parts for. I don't know if I would trust the hour meter. My hour meter is broken (or disconnected) and shows 2190 hrs. The PO thought that it had about 3000hrs on it. If possible, I'd do an engine oil analysis before purchase. I did on mine and I know that there's no bearing metal or coolant in the lube oil. Overall, mine is in pretty good shape — 60-70% undercarriage, fairly new sprockets, the pads have had grouser bars welded onto them and the hood and other covers aren't beat-up. I paid $13,800 for it too...and, best of all, I found it only 45 miles from the farm. The PO hauled it to me for the cost of fuel. Some good stuff in this thread about the little Komatsus
First off, Welcome to HEF wdnewman! :drinkup The only thing I can comment on is the one I quoted. I would change all fluids, filters and such after purchase. While changing the fluids, take some samples and have them sent off to the lab. This can tell you any unseen issues with the internals of the components. If you can, get some samples before purchase. This can give you a heads up of problems, and could ultimately tell you if the machine has problems already. If the results show multiple issues then you might need to keep looking.
Thanks for the quick get-back! Thanks for the insight guys! I have already decided to stay away from the re-painted units, and to try to stay near the 2000 hour mark, but as noted, you can't always trust the hour meters. There is a Mitsubishi (sp?) BD2F for sale nearby, an early 70's model, but the hour meter only shows 1,100 hours! (Yeah, right!). But checking on the web, it looks like the Mitsu parts are few and far between, so that dozer is not an option. The oil check is a good idea, but the units I am checking on are some distance away and I may have to wait after purchase to get that deep into the dozer. It WILL be done though, either before or after purchase. I WILL check for rust, as a lot of those Japanese units are worked near sea water. FOPS with sweeps is a requirement of mine also, but will probably have to be done later. That will be a subject of a later post. Thanks again.
Also consider what type of tracks you need. Lots of them come with swamp tracks which are great for soft dirt and mud but not so good on rocks. For $14K to $18K you should be able to get a decent -7 model with <4000hrs. The -7E models are 12V systems which are nice for jumping and finding cheap off the shelf lights and accessories.
Ah yes, the tracks! I meant to bring that up too. Although the local conditions vary between packed clay and soft mush, we don't have any rock to contend with. However I did hear that the standard tracks on the 20A are much easier on the undercarriage which I don't know to be a fact, but it seems to make sense. I would like whichever type has the best push to it. Any suggestions? And thanks for that information about the -7E model. I didn't know about the 12 volt for that series, and that would sure be a plus.
dip stick question when i get done on my dozer the oil level is at low i checked it the following morning and it was at full, im guessing that this was because there was still oil in the rockers when i shut is down. to get to my point i added oil after i turned it off (fearing running out of oil) until it said full,next morning i checked i the oil again and it was past the High mark covering the letters on the dipstip that said engine stoped. is this ok
It's no different than any other engine; you need to let it sit for a while on level ground before checking the oil.
its overfilled so leo i assume this means that the engine is overfilled:Banghead
Yes. I'd say if you check it cold on level ground and the oil level is above the top mark on the dipstick, it is overfilled.
For what it is worth,I wore out an undercarriage on a D-21 and the machine was NO trouble during that time,sprockets so smooth it would not back up a hill and there was no sign of any transmission issues that I could see.We ran it a few years after that with no problems either.Ron G
D21 Transmission Ron, I would imagine the problems attributed to the D-21 tranny could possibly be mis-use by people like me who don't know what they are doing. The old opinion that manual transmissions are stronger than automatics (and truly they once were) could be behind the belief that the D-20 has the better transmission. Just a guess here, but I think a possibility. Anybody else had experience in this area? :beatsme WD
That could very well be the case. All the information I accumulated was purely anecotal and was from people that had manual machines. I based my decision to stick with a manual purely on the guess that a shuttleshift had the potential for having received more abuse than a manual.
Me too... Leo, Thats exactly how I reached my decision to go with the D20. There seems to be no price advantage one over the other, so I went with what I heard around the barracks, so to speak. (The standard is stronger, easier and cheaper to repair, etc. etc.) There are a LOT of D21 dozers out there, and if I am correct, big K isn't offering the standard transmission any more at all. WD
The powershift may have a little more to "go wrong", but it's easy to abuse the manual transmission. It has no "syncro's" (probably wrong term, but you understand what I mean) so you have to slip the clutch to get the gears to line up. If you aren't patient or are having a bad day it's like being in a coffeehouse with all the grinding. Not that I ever grind a gear on mine. Also, if you are running it for more than a day or 2 at a time the power shift is really nice.
Just as an example to get the thinking pointed in the right direction,back in the fifties when the horsepower race began Chrysler who was the leader in the field at the time with the Hemi quickly concluded that an automatic with the torque converter and oil cushioned gear train produced less shock loading and therefore less breakage coupled with the torque multiplication combined to make a bettter,more reliable product.These days with electronic control it would be difficult to damage the driveline because of all the safeguards built in.There are exceptions to every rule but I would choose an auto every time for reliability,especially with an inexperienced operator.Ron G
I've got the D21 and sure like it. Use the inching pedal like a clutch to keep it smooth and not shock load it. It had 5,143 hrs on it when I got it and was used by contractors for grading homesites, etc.... I can tell you it ain't got any trans slippage like a torque converter does. It goes rite now, and will stall the engine down if you get it against an inmovable thing. I took the hr meter out to make room for an oil press gauge....cold it's at 75 psi and hot it's at around 40-35. Also put in a temp gauge .... need a voltmeter now but a meter for a 24 V system is hard to find....anyway....ain't got another hole for it...ha. Never used a dozer before and find that this thing is the roughest riding machine I have ever been on. It will shake you apart. Tractor is bad, dozer is worse. I think the pyramid tracks may make it worse...is this the case? I can sure tell it gets smooth when I get into a soft area. Also, I am happy with fuel usage...seems to sip it. thanks Pete in MS
Lots to think about. Well, You guys sure give me a lot to think about. It appears that either tranny is OK. I probably will decide on the best dozer on other factors like undercarriage and engine hours and just take whichever transmission it has. Pete, I'll bet that the pyramid tracks ARE rougher than the standard grousers, but the two JD450's I checked out had the standard tracks and would shake your fillings loose. I thought it might just be the antique nature of these old machines, but it might turn out to be a normal dozer thing. I live in central MS, with soil much like you have, so I can expect about the same performance as you get. Do you have much slippage with the pyramids when pushing small trees and brush, are or they OK? WD
Rough ain't in it!!! I'm planning on installing a suspension seat ASAP...my 51 year old back isn't up to riding that bucking SOB for 8 hrs at a time. Pete, My temp gauge is DOA and needs to be fixed/replaced.What did you use for oil pressure & temp gauges?
No small dozer to my knowledge has an active suspension on them like you would expect to find on the larger dozers. You can expect a rough ride on the small dozers generally because of the shorter track frame and especially if the tracks are running loose and/or you have bad/missing bottom rollers.Ron G
d21 pictures and simple service information http://ctocf.proboards54.com/index.cgi?board=bulldozers&action=display&thread=1179380425&page=1 this is a site THAT YOU CAN VIEW with some good info on the dozer and it also has service pictures and more check it out. BUT THERE IS ONE PROBLEM: you have to be a chinese tractor owner to be a member.:notworthy
Hey WDNewman. The tracks have slipped a few times when I had it revved up, but don't slip much at all.....when they do, they rip the ground up. It pushes the small trees ok....I have a lot of the yaupon holly....it's clumpy stuff....I hit it high and shove it over and the close side of the roots pop out...then back up and get the big flat section of roots all out. If you cut it off, it's harder to get the roots. Ditto for other trees. Don't run up to a big fat pine stump an nail it too hard.....you gonna stop fast...ha ha ha. Dynamite is good for those, I've heard...Seems like the 8' blade is really wide for this size machine, but guess it's extra good for leveling dirt with it. You sure can load it up in the scrub, tho. RD Leo....I used mechanical oil and water gauges. I got them at a truck parts place. The water temp comes with a bushing that's 3/8" npt and you gotta have it because the probe and it's fitting must seat on the bushing. The bushing screwed rite into my thermostat housing where the cab heater option plug is. I switched to a temp gauge and probe from http://www.agri-supply.com/ because the first one had a very high scale and didn't work well. The agri-supply one is for a Massey Ferg. tractor......but........it did not come with the bushing....and you gotta have the bushing for the probe to seal off on. It was $16. It fit rite in the original bushing that came with the first kit...luckily. The oil press gauge kit from the truck place (or auto parts) is ok as is, but it did not have a metric adapter to install it. The Komatsu has a metric plug (looks like !/8" npt pipe, but is not. (this is located down by the dipstick on mine) I could only find this adapter in one place in a nearby town, and they had only one.......I was surprized to find the water temp bushing that is 3/8" npt screwed rite in the thermo housing. Anyway, that's my story , and I'm sticking to it....ha ha. Good luck Pete in MS
just keeping you up to date After realizing that i had put too much oil in the engine i decided screw it,ill just drain all the oil out and replace it with new rotella d 15W40, have not tightened my tracks yet because i need to buy a grease gun will keep everybody up to date:usa
Not all of it! Hey Rangerfreak! If you drained and replaced all the oil before, just drain out a little bit! You don't need to replace ALL the oil! Just get the level right. Always check your all before using the machine, not after using it. BTW, my eldest son has been an engineer for Shell oil for the last seventeen years says to use NOTHING but Rotella T in any diesel engine. Some people say use only the 30 wt oil, but I can't verify that using the multi weight oil has any detrimental effect. WD
ill do that
D20ag Now that you've let the cat out of the bag about having a parts manual... could you be kind enough to lookup the part number for the throttle cable. Mine must have gotten moisture in it and has froze up. The local (35 miles away) doesn't like helpping us "grey market" owners. Thanks Brian Baby Dozer owner
Welcome to HEF Brianls! :drinkup Whats going on in Perry these days?
Happenin' Perry Not much. The Nat'l fair grounds is always so busy you can't go out to eat without a 30-60 minute wait. We NEED rain. and the dirt (clay) is as hard as concrete.:usa
I'm hearing ya on the rain. Been looking for it for a while now. :beatsme I'm one of them Fair Ground people. I've been to the Buck-a-rama, Fish-a-rama and Turkey-rama for the last 15 years. Haven't missed one yet. :drinkup
Jones CO Where in Jones County are you? Do you ever go to the Mossy Creek Barnyard Festival on Lake Joy Rd in Perry?
The Ol' Lady went last year with some friends, but I didn't. I don't recall ever going but I do plan on making it up there some time. When's the next one? On Edit: I live right inside of Gray.
Serial Numbers Does anyone know of a website or location where we can find a listing of serial numbers indicating date of manufacture, machine type, etc? Could be a factor when shopping for a dozer. WD
I'd be happy to do it but the manual (a repair manual) is at the farm, 90 miles away. I'm going back on Wedensday. I'll look it up then....but, to be honest, I don't remember seeing part numbers in the thing.
Hi Bryan The part No. for the throttle cable on a D20 is: 103-43-35270. This is for cable only. All else has it's own part No. My lever assembly was broken, so I put a big truck throttle cable on it. Good luck Pete in MS
Throttle Cable Thanks for the PN. The lever on mine is still OK, I didn't try to over muscle it. I pulled the side cover and unbolted the linkage from the throttle valve and checked valve operation and all was good. Next I checked the lever system and after removing the cable from the ratchet assembly it checked good and the cable was FROZEN!! Thanks for the help. Brian Baby Dozer owner:usa This is a great forum.
oil change question do i have to unbolt a plate or anything under the under carrage to change the oil, where do i change it from
Hi Ranger You gotta take the protection plate off under the oil drain. 2 bolts hold it on and it's about the size of a cracker box in length and width. It's important to keep it on when working in rough stuff to keep limbs out of there. You can do it by crawling under the machine. I also have raised mine by trimming 2 crossties on one end and driving up on them to raise machine about 8". Makes it easier. There's about 9 qts of oil in there. Good luck Pete:usa
love this section I want to take some time to say thank you everybody for your help this is a great forum
Hey RF The protection plate for the oil drain has one bolt. The transmission screen area protection plate has 2 bolts.....this on my D21P-6 with powershift. I had told you wrong before. Pete in MS
thanks thanks for the info.do we have any other komatsu dozer related questions, comments, or suggestion :usa
Well, I bought it. Today I wrote a check for a D21P-7E with a little over 2000 hours on the meter. It has the joystick controls and was really sweet handling, and has NOT been repainted. All the specifications on the undercarriage showed 80% or better remaining, so I know it has been replaced within the last couple of hundred hours. The sprockets had new welded sections and also looked no older than a couple of hundred hours either. Found no rust or leaks, and am having the dealer weld on a FOPS with sweeps before he ships it to me. Anxious to get it, but will have to wait a week or so before it arrives. :drinkup
Congrats on the purchase. :drinkup So it will be a week before we can see the pictures then....
Pictures Countryboy, Actually, I do have some pictures taken from the dealers website. Now all I have to do is find the "post attachments" button which is supposed to be here somewhere. Ah, there it is. Now I have to resize the photo. Maybe I can get this done a little later today. WD
Shall be waiting.......:wink2
track question when it says adjust tracks to 13 mm does that mean 13 mm or slack in the tracks
Anyone know what the bolt size is to attach the swap tracks on D20P-7? Mines missing a couple. Thanks...
My new toy. Well guys, Try as I might, I can't resize the photo to meet the 640 x 640 requirements. It (The dozer) should be in within the week (with sweeps installed) and then I can take some photos, hopefully resize them and get them posted so you all can whoop and hollar. I am having a hard time getting the source for a manual. Any manual. I ordered one from Manuals.US two weeks ago, but nothing has arrived and I can't get them to respond to any of my emails. So...I am still looking for manuals and cross-references for filters. Any help out there? WD
Email them to me at cat420(at)gmail.com and I'll resize and post them up for you. Or you could download the Microsoft ImageResizer Powertoy, it usually gets pictures small enough.
Here she is. Looks like a nice machine.
Thanks Cat420! Well, There it am! Like I said before, the sweeps are yet to be put on. The dealer had five D20's and D21's ranging from 5's to 7's. This one was my favorite by far. He had another pyramid track unit (a D21P-6) that rode like a bronco. I never could figure out why, but the difference in the one I bought and it was like night and day. The D20 I tried could never stop grinding the gears. Probably because the clutch brake wasn't adjusted correctly, but I couldn't be sure. Also the clutch was slipping pretty badly, but then again it could be an adjustment problem. What really pulled me to this unit, other than the joysticks, was the strong engine, a smooth ride (? in comparison), great hydros, no rust, at least none hidden by paint. Still looking for a manual and a filter cross reference, though. Thanks again Cat420. WD
Great looking machine there wdnewman. :drinkup Thats one of the better looking ones that I have seen. Now we need some action shots after you get everything in order.
Hi WD I got my manuals for a D21P-6 from here: http://www.ssbtractor.com/ I got the complete set (3 manuals....cost about $187. Talked to some fellow on the phone who was good, but can't remember his name. Manuals are pretty good, you just gotta convert everything from metric.....hope you got a calculator! Got my hydraulic filter from Komatsu, as there are no after market filters for these machines. (hydraulic)...cost about $27, I think) You can get fuel and engine oil filters from local parts place....here is WIX site: http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/racing.asp The fuel filter for mine is WIX 33393 The engine oil filter is WIX 51206 The parts place can check on your model or you can find on WIX site. Good luck Pete
Thanks to all.... Hey, great info on the filters! Just what I was looking for. Still have had NO response from Manuals.US, so I am going to get in touch with SSB Tractor and see what they have. As soon as the dozer arrives, I'll put in some more pictures so you can see how the installation went on the sweeps. :drinkup Thanks again! WD
will low sulfer fuel hurt my dozer Hello i was wondering if low sulfer fuel will hurt my dozer and do i need to switch to farm diesel if i can find it
Good question. Initially, it will depend on whether or not the tubing and seals that come in contact with fuel are made from natural rubber. If they are natural rubber, you will eventually experience leaks from the rubber failing due to contact with the volatiles in the ULSD. Replacing rubber seals and tubing with parts made of Viton will solve this problem. Another issue is lost lubricity. Good 'ol #2 diesel utilized the sulphur as a lubricant and supposedly, ULSD contains additives to compensate for the lost lubricating qualities. I'm not convinced that is the truth so, an aftermarket additive such as Power Service which contains additional lubricant may be a good idea. Another alternative is biodiesel which has excellent and well documented lubricating properites. Sufficient lubrication can be achieved at 5% biodiesel concentration. I would not go to a higher percentage of biodiesel because it too can cause problems with natural rubber components. Additionally, biodiesel is a strong solvent and if used in high concentrations will start cleaning years of accumulated paraffins from fuel system components resulting in clogged filters and other problems. I have some experience in alternate fuel use from approximately three years of running my Mercedes-Benz diesel automobiles on everything from waste fry oil to diesel to used engine oil to citronella-scented lamp oil. In that time, the absolute most trouble I've experienced with my fleet has been in the last 6 months since ULSD appeared in the local diesel pumps. The biggest issue is my 6 cylinder, diesel-powered S-class that has needed delivery valve seals and injector oveflow hoses replaced. Fortunately, I can do these things myself. You can be sure that I'll be keeping a close eye on my dozer for fuel issues.
Ulsd Hi Rangerfreak, I have heard that ultra low sulfur diesel fuel can cause seal leakage within the fuel delivery system, mainly in the "0" rings at the injectors or the seals at the fuel pump. It seems that the sulfur is a natural lubricant and when you don't have it in quantity within the fuel leaks can begin. I use exclusively "farm" diesel, which is untaxed in Mississippi and therefore over 20 cents per gallon cheaper. It is worth it to buy a skid tank and keep a supply on hand, or even an old 55 gallon drum with a hand pump works well. That is what I use. Here is a website that beats the subject of ULSD to death if you are really interested. http://www.officialbiodiesel.com/news/uls_diesel.htm WD
Hi WD and All I was talking to the guy that sells the farm diesel here in Poplarville. I asked him if the farm stuff still had the good lubrication....he told me it's just road diesel with the dye in it. Same stuff . He may not know what's going on, tho.....who knows? Pete in Poplarville
Pete, Let me check with my supplier here in Jackson. It is my belief that the diesel sold at the truck stops and the dyed farm diesel is NOT the ULSD being sold at the gas stations for automobiles. This could be entirely incorrect. I know for a fact that only a percentage of the diesel being produced at refineries is ULSD, so the high sulfur diesel is still being made. In either case, there is an additive that supposedly is added to ULSD to give it better lubrication, so the whole discussion may be just an discussion and nothing more.
WD, if you would, ask them about home heating oil too. I run that in my Bobcat and dozer with some Howes added, and haven't had any issues yet. I wondered if that was any different, or had more sulphur?:beatsme Jeff
Heating Oil. Jeff, I have heard of this being done up north. There is one problem. Nobody here in Mississippi sells or stocks heating oil! BUT....here is some information: Off road Diesel #2 and Home Heating Oil / Fuel Oil # 2 apparently differ only in the tax applied at the time of sale. Both are dyed red. They differ from standard Road Diesel #2 in that road tax has been applied, no red dye has been added, and there is a specification regarding ash and/or sulphur content. In extremely cold climates, Standard Road Diesel #2 may be blended with Diesel #1 or Kerosene K-1 to assist with gelling problems resulting from the cold weather. Similar blending may occur on home heating oil / fuel oil based on your geographic region, anticipated temperatures, and overall climate. Home Heating Oil / Fuel Oil #4 and Home Heating Oil / Fuel Oil #6 have a higher BTU content. This is normally accomplished by adding much heavier petroleum oil distillate similar to automotive motor oil to the formulation. This allows a furnace to burn less fuel, for each BTU of heat produced, as well as often times reducing the cost per gallon of fuel. These types of Home Heating Oil / Fuel Oil should NOT be used in a Diesel Fueled Engine or Generator. In times of shortage, Standard Road Diesel #2, Diesel #1, Kerosene, K-1, Jet Fuel, JP-1, Agricultural Diesel, Diesel #2, Home Heating Oil / Fuel Oil #4, or Home Heating Oil / Fuel Oil #6 may be shipped by fuel distribution companies and sold for use as home heating oil. There may also be times that, due to economic and other considerations, fuel distributors sell any or all of these products, or combinations and blends of the same, to home owners, as simply Home Heating Oil / Fuel Oil. SUMMARY: Home Heating Oil / Fuel Oil #2 and Off Road / Agricultural Diesel #2 seem to be very similar products. More importantly, Home Heating Oil #2 is refers to a very specific product, and a very specific formulation, which, in many cases, may be a very similar product in terms of composition and formulation as Off-Road Agricultural Grade Diesel #2. Hope that helps. WD
Yes that does. I'm burning #2 home fuel oil, but I'll cut it with #1 diesel fuel when it's cold out. Sounds like that is ok to do then. Thank you Sir. Jeff
Fuel Jeff, Glad to be of help. BTW, how much IS heating oil up there? I pay about $2.00 per gallon for Ag diesel here. Just wondering WD
The last time I bought any was 3/13/07 @ $2.599/gal delivered. I checked my recietes for the closest to that date I'd bought "on road", it was 3/14/07 @ $2.799/gal at the truckstop. Last Wends. I paid $2.859 for "on road". So it's approx $.20 less + it's delivered. Not a huge savings, but some. Jeff
AG Diesel in Mississippi Pete and anyone correct me if I'm wrong here, but the last Ag diesel I bought was a little over $2.00 a gallon, but no fed or state tax was charged, so it made it somewhere near a .75 cents per gallon savings. Well worth the special tank and pump! NOW...can anyone tell me this: what time/hours usage does Komatsu specify for changing the different oils and filters in the D21P? Finally got a manual shipped but has not arrived yet and I was just wondering. WD
Howdy WD, here are some specs on filter changes, etc... Initial 250 hrs (new machine) Engine oil and filter Fuel filter Main clutch case....clean strainer and change oil (D-20) Trans bevel gear case...(D-20)...change oil Trans case (D 21)...Clean strainer and change oil Trans bevel case (D-21) change oil Hydraulic tank and filter....change filter and oil Final drive...change oil Engine valve clearance....check and adjust 500 hours: Engine oil and filter Fuel filter Clean breather element Clean radiator fins 1000 hrs Clean strainers and change oil in trans (both 20 & 21) Change oil in bevel gear case...21 Hydraulic filter and oil change Check lube conditions on undercarriage components 500 hrs sounds like a mighty long spell before changing engine oil and filter. My Ford New Holland diesel tractor says every 100 hrs. Oil used is type for diesel engines, not gas engines. I run 30 wt in mine. Think I should be using 40 since got a lot of hours on mine. (and it's getting really hot outside !!!) Normal proceedure is to let warm up before loading engine and also to idle a spell for a cool off before shutdown. I don't remember what diesel costs (off road)....but I gotta go get some soon....I just use 2 plastic fuel tanks....5 gal size I think... Know it ain't cheap. Pete
great posts great posts
Lube Schedule Pete, 500 hours seems long to me too, but with the new superfilters like WIX (cost four times as much, last twice as long), the new oils, etc, I can see where it would be possible, but I think I would be using only synthetic oil if I went that long with it. I believe I'll set my schedule up for 250 hours for motor oil/filter and do the rest at 1000 hours as scheduled. (By the way, I wonder how you "Check lube conditions on undercarriage components"!) Thanks for the good info. Keep a-clackin'. WD
Hey WD and all.... To check undercarriage lube conditions, think they are refering to pulling plugs on track rollers and checking for presence of oil in 'em and also on the front idlers...(and top roller ) ..all the places where I put grease zerks......ha. I have pumped a little grease in mine, but some grade of oil goes in 'em. Book says contact Komatsu man to lube them.
PS: I broke a hose fitting on mine today...think a limb got it. The hose on right angle cylinder. It was rusted real bad and weak. Saw oil dripping, but all was working ok.... Will get one made tomorrow in Poplarville. Take Care Pete
Today it arrived! Well, I got a phone call this morning at 7:00 AM informing me that my newly purchased D21P-7 had arrived in my driveway, and how did I plan to unload it? It was loaded on the rear of a long-haul flatbed sitting four feet off the ground. I informed the driver that it was to be unloaded in my pasture, as I didn't have any 1.ramps, 2.fork lifts, 3.cranes, or 4. any other way, to unload it.:beatsme After much head scratching, backing up to embankments, stopping traffic,etc., I finally opted to call a flatbed wrecker which backed up to the flatbed trailer, transferred the dozer, drove to the above mentioned pasture and unloaded the machine. Would it have been easier for the dealer to ship on a low-boy gooseneck, or a lowboy with a ramp? Would it have been better for the dealer to have told me that I needed a way to unload the dozer when it arrived? Yep, sure would have. And it would have save me the $75 wrecker fee.:Banghead Ah well, finally got it! During shipment the blade had been angled hard right to save width. Came off the trailer that way, and when I went to try it out, the blade stayed that way. No matter how I moved the stick, left/right tilt, up down, the blade stayed angeled hard right. What the... Worked around the place for a couple of hours...no change. Hard right. Finally called the dealer who turned me over to the mech, who asked me if I had a "T" handle on the blade operator or a standard handle. I told him I had a standard. "Is there a button on the top of the handle?" he asked. Nope, I said. "Huh", he said. " Let me let you talk to the salesman who loaded it". The salesman said " There is a button on the top of the blade lever that you push". No, I said, there isn't. "Oh", he said, " It don't LOOK like a button...It looks like part of the knob". He was right. Just push the top of the lever knob, and you can angle the blade. Huh. This is a GREAT little machine, and I am beginning to get the hang of it a little bit. The sweeps are imperative! GOT to have them if you are going into the woods. I am going to turn the exhaust around 90 degrees to stop limbs from grabbing... all fluids are fresh, all levels are full, and it even had a half tank of diesel when it arrived. Life don't get no better!:drinkup
The Machine Here it am.
Congrats on your new machine WD!! Sounds like you'll be having some fun now.:thumbsup Where da picture is??:beatsme (with sweeps)
Hitachi dozer Dm45x-1992 I am new to this website and probably I am in the wrong area for posting. but the grey market equipment thread seems appropriate. I have contacted many Hitachi dealers including the corparate office in Japan but, none have been able to help me ( most did not know Hitachi made a dozer). I have also had several heavy equipment service people take a look at the unit at the dozer without sucess. I am hoping that someone on the site will have knowledge or can provide additional leads on how to tighten the tracks on this dozer. Most people say that there should be grease fittings but no one thus far has been able to locate the adjustment fittings. If anyone has a service manual,experience with this type of dozer or other documentation/information please contact me. Thank-you.
shure it is a grey market dozer
Welcome to HEF thom203! :drinkup Can you give some more details on the piece of equipment you're talking about.....model number and such. Pictures are good too. :thumbsup
Where it are?? Try again. I bet you are proud. When you figure out how to post pics, maybe you can tell me and I'll post a pic of mine....it ain't purty ! Mine has been rode hard and put up wet a lot (before I got it). Congratulations !!!!! Pete
Here are a couple threads on posting pictures and resizing: Posting Pictures Resizing No excuses now.......post um up.
Posting the picture! (Well, TRYING to post the picture) I think this MIGHT do it. Ran it about six hours today. No problems at all. Other than the dog.
Nice looking dozer. I worked for an outfit that had a D31P. It was a nice little machine but had electrical problems from day one.
Lashlander... Thanks. BTW, I was stationed in Kodiak with the USN in 1961-1962. Would like to go back to see the old place, but probably never will. I'll bet it has really changed since then. WD
Boy, that's a nice looking machine. That ROPS and sweeps are fine. Lights and all..... I got a lite switch on mine, but that's all that's left to the lites. I ran mine today also. Found out I was working over a yellow jacket nest yesterday with it, but didn't know it.....saw them swarming around today when I was surveying the damage I did yesterday. I do not like to mess with those things. They inflict the worse pain of all stinging bees. I am gonna try to post a pic of mine...my brother told me when I sent him a pic of it...."I hope it runs better than it looks"....ha ha....it runs good. Pete
If you could post a photo of the complete track frame and more around the idler area we could probably make some suggestions... I can't believe that it can be so different to any other unit that folks here have experience with
How long ago was that Lashlander? On the older ones the electrics were pretty darned basic.
Here's mine....no indication in uploading pics (2) that they are here or not....no blue buttons, no red arrow over manage attachments and no green arrow for browsing.....wonder why it's different ?? Hope the pics are here... Pete
Trying pic again Think I got it this time. Pete
I bet it has. Its surprises me how much its changed since I moved here. Here's a pic of the Base and Womens Bay. I took this on a flight home from King Cove a year or so ago. It was an 85 model. The charging system was the main problem. We put several alternators on it and they wouldn't last. We had the Dealer work on it and they got it going for a while but it quit. I spent all summer either parking it next to another machine so I could jump it in the morning or an electrical outlet so I could charge it.
Kodiak Hey Lashlander, Well, back then we called it "Old Womans Bay", and the mountain to the left was called "Old Womans Mountain", for what reason, who knows and hey, who cares. I can locate the exact position of my old barracks in the picture you sent. If you look on the right side of the bay at the docked ship (about the middle of the picture) and go up the hill to your right about two hundred yards, well, thats where I was for a year of my young, virile life. You probably live in town which probably has social functions, females and other things which we did not have. As far as electrical problems: My poor ole thang don't have much more than a battery (24 volt dammit), headlights, and a starter system, so can't too much go wrong. Let me know how it goes up there. WD
To Pete and all the other guys. Pete, Don't listen to your brother. If I listened to mine, I would still be in bed sucking my thumb. There ain't nothing wrong with your dozer. Love the sweeps, but hey where did you get that seat with a headrest? Super. I am thinking about getting a sound system and a wet bar installed. :drinkup But really,I am looking for a seatbelt. Thats a musthave, and if any of you guys know where I can get one, please let me know. I have an operators manual for a -6 series I will swap even for a seatbelt. If you don't have a seatbelt, I still have an owners manual for any of you -6 owners that need one. Glad to help out if I can. WD
Its still called Old Womans Mountain. The reason is at a certain spot out in Chiniak Bay it looks like an old women laying on her back. I live out in Bells Flats at the head of Womens Bay. Thats cool you can spot your old stomping grounds. Everyone needs a trip down memory lane once in a while.
Some filter information. Guys, This is a little information about finding filters for the D20-D21 that I ran into with the local NAPA dealer. They have a good website online that cross-references filters, but the ones that kept showing up had no relation to what I needed on my D21P-7. Then I noticed that they had an area for the engine serial numbers. When I put that in, I hit the jackpot and was able to buy the fuel, oil and air filters (both inner and outer) at the local NAPA store. Not cheap, mind you, but available. They said they can do hoses for me too if and when I need one, but I'll test that out when the need arises. Funny thing happened changing out the fuel filter. I had both side panels off of course, but just couldn't work a filter wrench around the bottom of the fuel filter. The left side lift cylinder was in the way. No matter what I did, no matter how many elbows I attached to the socket, just wouldn't work. As I gave up on the stupid design engineers in Japan, and was practicing expanding my English, my wife walked up behind me and said; "Wouldn't you have more room if you let the blade down?" ointhead Sure I would. I would have lots more room. All I needed to change out the fuel filter, in fact.
I had saved the seat from a small Mercury car, about 1986. It was in the way and the dozer seat needed work....$150 estimate for recovering. That's why the car seat is there...ha ha. Heck, it's real comfortable. No seatbelt either and I can't find the old ones from the car...you can get some from a junkyard, no doubt. I ran my old dozer hard today. I am clearing some jungle-like places here and it is hard work for the machine. It is holding together, tho....boy, limbs sure like to get tangled in the blade, etc....and the tracks eat about as many limbs and roots as I shove out.....Those things really grab everything and rip it to shreds, after swinging them by the cab...gotta dodge (if you see them coming). I bent the grille in today, it was bent when I got it and I fixed it...now gotta straighten it again. Oak trees sure have strong roots....maples and bay come down easy (small trees)....a big pine stump that's fat is a no-no!!! A big thicket of muscadine vines gave me fits....they were hung up on all parts and in the tracks. Got 'er done, tho. Happy 4 th. Pete
Can someone tell me if there is any adjustment to the drive & steering clutches on a d-21-p 6? The left brake hung up on my dozer and before i freed it, it pulled good. now that the brake is free, the left side is not pulling, we're just kinda goin round in a big circle
Welcome to HEF bulduzer! :drinkup
Seatbelts and clearing jungles. Hey Pete and all you other guys. Found an easy seat belt source. Go to: http://www.seatbeltsplus.com/ Mine was shipped today, and total cost was about $20.00. The D20-21-7 and I think the 6 series too, has mounting holes tapped on either side and to the rear of the drivers seat. Easy installation, and a must-have according to a dozer driver I know who has about 30 years experience. Gets a little bouncy out there sometimes. Like Pete, I am busy clearing some good ole southern brush. Lots of Chinese Privit, Sweet Gum, Pine and Elm trees. No problem with any of those types at or under 10" diameter. It is amazing how much work can get done in such a short time, especially compared to using a chain saw and box blade! Not too good yet at floating though. I still am going to have to use a box blade to get 'er completely smooth. Couldn't do without the sweeps. No way. Even with them I've still had some visitors up there with me, but they keep out most of the limbs. I highly recommend the the D21 transmission. It saves lots of shifting, but you gotta remember to come to a complete halt before changing directions. I'm sorry I had to wait until I was sixty five to get this thing. WD
bulduzer, the multi-disc clutch shouldn't need any adjustment but the brake is band type and should be adjusted. If you lost drive on one side you should make sure the brakes are free and that there is no dormant clutch release pressure. On these dozers there has often been confusion over whether the steering clutches are wet or dry, some are wet and some are not and folks can fill them up inadvertently or oil can transfer into the clutch compartment. If everything checks out OK in that regard the steering clutch may just be slipping or be more seriously damaged or possibly the teeth are gone on the discs/plates. If that happens you maybe need to check the run out between the pinion and bevel gear flanges.
Howdy all.....WD, you got 3 years on me...that chainsaw was killing me...dozer gets the roots too, and that's a lot better. Still need to fire up the saw on some of the bigger downed trees, so I can move them. When my dozer is cold, I have a little hesitation when I first shift to F or R. After warmed up, I have very slight hesitation when going from low speed to high speed in forward or reverse, but very slight. Does your newer one do that, WD? I have all new fluids in mine. Changed all of it in all sections. It takes a lot of oil...hate to see what a big machine takes. I thought I had steering problems as mine is rather hard to steer. I hooked a big chain to a really big oak stump and while pulling, I had power steering ! That told me the clutch releases were working and it pulled in a straight line, so I knew the clutches were hanging in there. I use the brakes a lot to turn, guess that's the way it works and I hope they hold up. All I know about 'em is what I read here and in the manuals....never been on one before I bought this one. (Except a bigger Case that the tracks were coming off when I test drove it!!!) Hey WD, I got the kinds of trees you have except elm.....don't know that one....and you didn't mention yaupon holly. This is the main pain here. It grows in big thickets and has a big, shallow root mass. I have to shove it over, pop the root edge up, then backup and get under the root edge to shove it out. It makes little red berry, hangs up on everything and burns with a crackling sound. It gets hung in the tracks and anywhere else it touches. Birds spread the seeds and they sprout happily. Glyphosate will kill it after 10-12 applications, if I'm lucky. (small plants) I need to buy a chemical to kill it and also small Chinese tallow trees, as glyphosate won't do much to them, either. Pete in Poplarville, MS
Some old timers here! Hey Pete, What is it about two old guys in their sixties getting their first bulldozer? Like you, this is my first one, and I am using it for exactly the same thing you are using yours for. About that hesitation: Yep, I get it too, just about exactly as you described it. I think it might be the nature of the beast, and I think that it is probably normal doing that. As for as the steering, I don't know. I drove three D21-6 models that had lever steering, and all of them were hard to steer (to me). I got the joystick control steering, and man, it is great. I can't figure out how you can steer with the levers and operate the blade at the same time with less than four arms. Takes practice. Also like you, all I know is what I read in manuals and have learned from using it around the place. I looked at a Case 450c, two JD 450's and a Mitsubishi before I decided on Komatsu. The Case and the JD's were completely worn out, and I mean less than zero time left in the undercarriage. To buy them and get them in working order (that you could depend on) would have cost in the 30 grand range. I couldn't locate a dealer or a parts house for the Mitsubishi, so I let that one go. Glad I got what I got, let me tell you. I think what you are calling Yaupon Holly is very close to what I was told was Chinese Privet. You painted a perfect picture of it in your description, and I've got it all over the place. They are not quite the same, as the Chinese Privet has green berries which the birds spread, and everyone they drop sprouts! Stuff grows pretty tall too. I attach a picture. Keep a'clackin'. WD
Howdy all.....WD, that's what I call privet hedge. It is a pest. It grows about like the yaupon holly and has a wide root clump also. Only good thing about it is that it's smooth and doesn't hang up on stuff too bad. We had some here about a foot in diameter next to the house. Took me and my brother 2 days to cut that bunch down. I read a story somewhere on the net about an old farmer talking to someone....he was asked if he remembered any of the mistakes he made in life.....he said something to the effect...."well, one comes to mind. Long time ago cousin Floyd called me about some of this hedge he had got and planted....it was really nice and he told me I could have some to plant around the house. I went and dug up a bunch and planted 'em all around the place. The name of this plant was Chinese Privet, and nobody knew much about it............then...."....ha ha ha....that was funny. I was on the way up to Magee one time and stopped to eat and look at somem plants at this nursery. The lady had yaupon holly in pots. Think about $5 a pot. I told her we were rich...all she had to do was come here and dig up all she wanted and cut me in....ha ha ha ha...Told her she better not let any of it out of the pot....ha.....but the berries will get spread. I will try to take a pix of this stuff and post it. Take care, Pete
any dozer related questions any questions related to the dozer
Pots for sale. Well Pete, I was born in Magee, and I guess those people can try to sell each other anything! You mentioned awhile back that you busted a hose. How did you go about getting that replaced? WD
Broken Hose I actually broke the fitting on the end of the hose, where it hooks to a block on the U frame behind the blade. It was very rusty and weak......I took it to a truck parts place that makes hoses. The fittings are all metric, but they happened to have some on hand. I had the old one with me, of course. They made up the hose and all fit fine. It was about 4' long. Think about $40. The metric fittings are the problem. Just lucky they had 'em. Everything on the dozer is metric.(to my knowledge) Pete
Yaupon Holly Howdy Here are a couple pics of yaupon. This stuff has green berries on it now, but in the winter, they will be red. Some people have a smaller variety planted as a yard plant. This paticular stuff here grows over 20' high in a clump and pushes over with a large, flat root mass exposed. (shallow roots) It can take over a place. I have areas I cannot walk thru because of it. It hangs up on others when cut or pushed and will not fall to the ground. It is very hard to deal with .... need a bigger dozer really, to attack it. Pete
Noisy under carriage Guys, I am getting a lot of squealing and grinding sounds from the undercarriage of my D21P-7. About twenty hours or so ago I tightened the tracks up to the specs as written in the manual. Within the last ten hours or so, my wife says that the tracks are making more noise than they used to, and most of the noise seems to be coming from the sprocket area, lots of creaking etc. Is this normal for this dozer, or am I overlooking something? According to the specifications on the tracks I have less than 20% wear on the pins and sprocket. Advise is appreciated. WD
Howdy WD and Group I have my tracks tightened to 1 1/2" slack....which is more than specified (not much as I think it works out to 1" to 1 1/4" if I read it right). The tracks creak and moan, but no popping at the sprocket as it did when real loose. I have them much tighter than the guy I bought it from ran them. He did not have a manual. I ran the heck out of it today as I am working up burn piles and burning. It was a bit hot for that at 97 degrees, but the old dozer did fine. I'm the one that got hot...ha ha. From what I can gather, they are too loose if you get the popping of the sprocket on the chain when turning, rough work...etc......seems like most like to run 'em kinda loose, but I like to stick pretty close to the manual. (it's in there for a reason) Good luck, Pete
Tracks that are too tight will be loud.I am not saying that you don't have other problems but the first thing to look for when your tracks are loud is adjustment problems and since you just did yours I would investigate that possibility.Feeling the front idler bearings with your hand should tell you if they are running too warm which would mean that they have too much tension on them.Run the dozer back and forth without touching the steering brakes or clutches or the foot brake and let it roll to rest before you measure the tension.The dozer should roll easily without power to the tracks on a small incline and should not pull to either side when walking a straight line on hard ground.Ron G
Tracks..Thanks. Thanks Pete and Ron. I have set the adjustment to 1 1/4" exactly according to the manual. I will check the heat on the front idler bearing just to verify that over tightening is not the problem. Probably the adjustment did cause a change in the sound which is what I am noticing. Nope, no sprocket popping, thankfully. The info on how to measure tension is very welcome Ron, and thats the first thing I'll check today. IF I do any dozer work. It is forecasted to be 98 degrees today, and while the dozer can handle it, the old man has a problem.
need help please striped the bolts onthe the plate that cover the grease fitting that tightens the tracks. any ideas on how to get these bolts out.
The threads must be rusted out...use a grinder or cut-off wheel on a grinder to remove the bolt head(s) and then you can remove the cover. Try using Kroil, PB Blaster or the penetrating oil of your choice to free-up the threads, then drill for an easyout and remove. Good luck.
Anyone pull the plates on their Japanese equipment and find um, Japanese ? This says: Band Brake Steering Clutch It's written in katakana, the phonetic symbols the Japanese use to sound out non-Japanese words/sounds. The date at the top (in European format yy/mm/dd) interestingly, is based on the current Emperor's reign which started in 1988...thus 04/11/17 is the fourth year (1992), Novermber, 17th. My dozer is a D20P6 and I believe that -6 units were an early '90s model. This is the plate that covers the brake adjustment and steering valve/clutches.
Howdy My D21 has no plates covering the track adjustment fitting.....somebody lost them long ago. That plate is interesting. Good to know that you can decipher their writing.... R Leo, how hard is it to get at that plate?....one for each side? I changed the rear left track roller today.....the rear ones are the hardest becuz of the guard. Only remove outer guard and use torch to cut the part on the other one in the way of removing the roller once loose....can't understand why they built it like they did, but it's thin metal and easy to cut out. Had to heat bolts on outer guard and tap a lot to get 'em loose. After this, I found 4 other rollers bad.....got 'em on order. ps: had to go buy a 12 ton bottle jack to jack up the rear to work on tracks. I know of a site with pics on a complete track roller job if anyone needs to check it out...on the Chinese tractor site. Pete
To Rangerfreak about plates Are you talking about the access doors to the grease fittings or the entire covers? The access doors have one captive bolt which doesn't come all the way out, and just seem to spin. A screwdriver could be used to pry up the door once the bolt is backed off. Each of the entire plates has four bolts, two outside and two inside (underneath the dozer). At least this is the way it works on the D21P-7 I've got. If it doesn't work that way with yours, the old grind off is the only method. Good Luck. WD
Actually, the day job is at a Japanese company. I had a friend explain it to me. This cover is the one on the back of the dozer, sitting at an angle under the batteries. Post that link!!!!
Link to pics on guys replacing track rollers, etc.... Hey RLeo....here's the link. The web site is for folks owning Chinese made tractors. This fellow owns one, and also bought a Komatsu dozer....he has done all the things to it himself....must be a real handy guy..... http://ctocf.proboards54.com/index.cgi?board=bulldozers&action=display&thread=1179380425&page=1 Lots of pages....towards the last is the info on rollers.....great read on all the things he has done, and very informative on the dozer. Pete in MS
is there a tool what is the best tool to get striped bolts out besides drilling:Banghead
An EDM tool might work but you aren't gonna find one at Harbor Fright. Have you tried alternately heating it and soaking it in PB Blaster?
Depending on how much of the bolt/head is left to grab the craftsman removers have worked well for me.
what size is it this may seem like a stupid question what size mm are the bolts that are on the track tighting cover that is on each side (there are 4 bolts on each side):Banghead of the dozer , but i am asking it because i do not have my dozer on hand to check it myself.
I'm no help, mine's 90 miles from here.
I use a reverse spinning drill bit and most of the time it comes right out. If I drill all the way through the bolt and it's still stuck,:bash I now have a good hole for my E-Z out. Good luck.
need to know need to know bolt size and also, how do i use the #13 in the craftsman bolt-out kit it just seems to be a hollow cylinder.
Small dozer tracks... Hi all, I'm new here and have to get my three posts in, before I can start a new thread. I'm not hijacking this one really... My question is regarding a Mitsubishi BD2G, which is very similar to a Komatsu D21A. The question: Are these little guys meant to have master pins in the tracks? If not, can you knock a pin out anywhere with a "gas axe" and a sledgehammer? I need to drop a link you see, to keep the tracks working a bit longer. Thanks for any and all help.
Welcome to HEF Digger145! :drinkup
Thanks It looks like a good place to be a member. and right back at ya :drinkup Now, it we just had a pack of cards....
Msster link pin Digger. You asked if a Mitsubishi dozer should have a master link. I have a BD2J and it does have a master link. Examine each pin closely and one should have a dimple in it.
Welcome to HEF John White! :drinkup
Thanks John. There are a few in there with a dimple, but no lock bolt on the other side. Are they a press fit or does yours have a lock bolt / pin holding the master pin in place? I thought the dimple may have been just where it was centered in the lathe?!? I'm going to have to do something with it very soon, as there is work waiting for it. Any help would be great.
Digger, Its strange that yours would have more than one master link. There is no clip or pin holding it in. I'll try to give you the proper procedure for removing it but I am sure some one can give their two cents worth too. Here is the way I have always removed track pins. Run the dozer till the master pin is on the rear sprocket and pointed down at the floor. Put a large piece of steel (heavey, I have a piece of old rail road track) lay it close as you can get to the pin, cut a 4x4 or 2 2x4 nailed together, cut it to length so it will just reach the other sprocket on the other side. I cut mine about 1/2" short so I can drive wedges in it and keep it tight. Soak your pin down with pennetrating oil, take a medium size sedge hammer, then a punch just slightly smaller than the pin. ( got a old torsion bar off a car, as it is hardned and will not mushroom, about 1ft long, then get you a piece of 2x4 about 3ft long, bore a hole through it so bar will just fit. Have a helper hold the board, with the punch pin in it and then whack it hard with the sedge. Be sure and wear safety glasses. Usually this method will work, a few of them I have to apply a little heat. If for some reason a regular pin has been taken out and a master pin has been installed. I dont think you can still get it apart. So you have to make sure you take out the master link pin. I understand that when you take the tracks off and if you take it to a track press, and if you have one pin in the middle, that they have to start at the master link and work back. (thats what the track shop told me) I am sure others ,(maybe a track shop can give you better directions) The purpose of the large steel suupport in the back is so you will not spread the link and bend it causing it to jam, and supports sprocket and other components so alot of shock is not transmitted to them. Hope this helps.
Rubber Tracks I just picked up a D20A-7. the tracks are brittle and worn out..I have knocked off 5 steel guides on the right side so far..not sure how many more to go before I am dead in the water...I'd like to get both steel tracks AND some more rubber tracks..anybody know of an outlet somewhere WEST of the Mississippi River for such a thing?
Digger Price out the master pin from a track shop, generally the pressed in style is not much money. If that is the case ,take an arc piercing rod ( or torch) cut a hole in from dimple as deep as you ( try for thickness of link ) as soon as you stop cutting , throw a cup of cold water in the hole- this will shrink the end of pin when it cools down / A lot of chains will still require more heat to remove pin You have to do both ends of pin. I have seen tracks where every pin had a dimple- The master bushing is shorter than the rest. it does not interlock in the chain. Quite often on badly worn tracks it will separate more there
Tracks Gary I would think that a Komatsu dealer would be able to get the guides for you. There is a fellow who advertises on E-bay that sells complete track assys. They are not cheap. McLaran makes after market rubber tracks, along with other mfg. If you can find a copy of "Heavy Equipment Trader" (usually sold at convince stores) often you will find suppliers of rubber tracks. Parts are much eaiser to find for the Komatsu than the Mitsbushi.
Welcome to HEF GaryKelley! :drinkup
ok guys Newbie here. found this 'hall of wisdom' while searching for info on my new2me Komatsu D21-5. Looks like I am going to have to rebuild/reseal the track tension cylinder on the rightside of my dozer. does anyone here have an expoded diagram of this cyl. and can anyone recommend a 'good' parts supplier. TIA, Mike Kelly Collettsville, NC
Welcome to HEF mikek! :drinkup
Transmission Fluid Been watching and learning for a few months now I have a reason to post. Not sure if this is the correct place but I need posts to make my own thread. I just purchased a D65P-8 doser & was wondering what the recommended fluids are for the transmission and finals. I ordered a service manual for it but that may take a while to get here. I am obviously excited to give it a try buy don't want to make any uneducated, expensive mistakes. I am excited to be part of this forum. Thanks in advance.
Mike, I have the big maintenace manual for the D20...I'm pretty sure the track cylinders are the same in both the '20 and '21 and the -5 and -6. Unfortunately, that manual is at the farm and I won't be out there until the 2nd weekend in Nov. But, I will scan those pages on the tensioner for you and post them when I have the manual in hand.
furukawa dozer was told this dozer was the same as the small mitsibushi dozers was wondering if any one could give me a place for parts as the boss was using it and loss the piece that holds the blade to the c frame and it has a 6 way blade on it thanks
You should be able to discuss this with your dealer but I think generally that type of product requires SAE 30W engine oil in the transmission/steering and final drives. Don't use multigrade engine oils as clutch or brake disc damage may result.
Welcome to HEF Twisted! :drinkup
This seems to be fairly common, the straight 30W oil in final drives. Are there any/many exceptions to this?
The dealer said to use 30wt in the finals, transmission, and steer case. Unless I was going to run it in the winter then I should have 10wt in the tranny. What is the problem with the multigrade fluids? What are they lacking that makes them unsuitable?
Twisted... Maybe an oil expert could explain it better but the way I understand it is that the mulitigrades contained friction modifiers to altered the oils viscosity with temperature. In a transmission the additives could cause damage to the clutch disc friction material or allow slippage and burning of the material if the transmission clutch or steering/brake don't engage when they are supposed to.
I'm also curious about the taboo of using multi-vis oils in wet clutches. Multi-vis oils simply have polymer viscosity modifiers to help maintain more consistent viscosity throughout their operating temp range. I find it really hard to believe that the wet clutch or final drive on a dozer could be any harder (temperature-wise) on oil than a turbocharger on an engine when it's getting worked really hard. Lots of cars with turbos have run lots of miles on multi-vis oil w/o a problem...I know, I have three with >300K miles on each that have been running Rotella 15W-40 as long as I've had them. On the D20 Komatsu, the steering clutches and brakes are dry; only the main clutch is wet.
R Leo, the thread got sidetracked with reference to a D65-8 dozer which has a powershift transmission close coupled to a wet steering clutch and brake housing. The issue was the influence of the slippery friction modifiers on the multi-disc clutches. The clutches and gear train have to be lubricated but also resist slippage. Final drives are not really an issue as all the oil really has to do is keep the loaded gears separated and the bearings lubricated through splash lubrication.
Furuka Parts Call 706-634-3355 Some fellow in Ga. says he has a supplier in Japan. Parts are not going to be cheap. To my knowledge there is no supplier or distribution of parts in US. I purchased a Mitsubishi BD2J, parts supposidely can be purchased from Rhine Equip in Wash. If you need their # contact me.
You should go ahead and post Rhine's number here so that others have access to it.
Rine Eqpt phone. Rine Eqpt. phone 1-800-536-3335
thanks ill let him know the number
Indicator lights on panel Trying out a used D21-P before purchasing. There are 3 red lights on the instrument panel that the symbols are not ledgable. Could some one tell what they are? Tahnks, Bud
Welcome to HEF Oversized2! :drinkup
I believe they are p-brake,oil pressure , and alternator.
Is that right to left, or left to right.
Honestly, I don't remember the order that it was in. Sorry.
Oversized2... maybe you can confirm which model it is e.g. D21P-? because on the -7 they are: L: Charge Lamp Centre: Engine Oil Pressure R: Air Filter restriction
I have a D20-6 and mine are: L - Alt M - OP R - Low Fuel You can pop them out pretty easily and hold them up to the light to see the legends. I'd do it one at a time though...
R Leo, thanks!!! I located the closest Komatsu dealer and will have a packing kit, seals and o-rings by the end of the week- $45 for parts. talked to shop guy about the cylinder, hardest part of this job will be removing/replacing the cylinder, actual resealing is piece of cake (according to Doug in the shop) once cylinder is in hand. He was not sure if I can get it off the tractor without 'breaking' the track to gain clearance to lift out the fork that goes to front idler. We shall see........ Mikek
Hey Mike I have heard that the spring is loaded, and will get you if you don't watch out.......did the shop guy say anything about it??? In other words, I think it's pre compressed somehow. Somewhere I have read that. My springs are both broken, but still hold the tracks pretty tight....I may have to work on them soon. Good luck and take care PS: I got a 21P-6.....older one. Pete
took about 3 hrs to get the tensioning cylinder off the tractor, definately would have been easier with the tracks out of the way. dunno if I will be able to get the cyl. back in position with the tracks in place. the spring carriage is under heavy spring tension but you absolutely DO NOT remove the 4 bolts that hold the spring captive in the carriage. ran out of daylight before I got the cylinder/piston/seals dissasembled, will get back to it tomorrow. I got the packing kit, wear rings, and dust seal from Komatsu dealer (Linder Machinery) and parts guy was confident they were correct for my serial # machine, so far I have not seen anything looking at the cylinder that looks like the parts I have, keeping my fingers crossed that they are right. MikeK
tensioning cylinder re-packed, re-sealed, re-installed. installation went smoother than removal. I replaced all the bolts since I had to use the smoke wrench on about half of them on removal. if/when I do the left side, the most important thing I learned-- open the release port at the grease fitting and use whatever you have (come-along, port-a-power, or maybe even drive the machine) to get the piston and shaft back as far as possible into the cylinder. Then you have plenty of slack in the track and can use the port-a-power and come-along to hold the track up out of the way to R&R the cylinder.
Fine job on that thing, Mike. Thanks for the pic. I made some notes for when I have to do it. Pete
thanks.....so yesterday I spent a few minutes looking into the glow plug operation on my tractor. there is a (broken) pushbutton, that is factory installed, on the front of the drivers enclosure, lefthand side, below the throttle and gearshift. It has 2 wires going to it from wiring harness, but there is No voltage at any time. Is this button the switch for the glowplugs? Normally the current drawn of glowplugs is so high that a solenoid is used to close that circuit which is controlled by a lighter duty switch. Does anyone know where the glowplug solenoid is located? MikeK
It's for the horn. The glowplugs are operated by turning the keyswitch backward until the wire in the indicator glows. (looks kinda like the top of a saltshaker with a curled wire inside in the dash).
Orch X, that is a great bit of info!! I really need to find a manual for this thing... I just went out in the cold dark night to see what happens when I turn the key CCW, I get the 2 indicator lights illuminated, but no glow in the 'saltshaker'. I don't hear any sound that I would expect to hear from glowplug solenoid either. I will try this again tomorrow and see if it makes a difference in starting the motor. thanks, MikeK
It's pretty mild in Texas and I haven't had my D20 through a winter yet but, so far it seems to need very little glow time to fire up. I haven't held it in glow long enough to see anything in the indicator and I don't hear a relay either. FWIW, I have a old Mercedes diesel ('75 model) with a similar 'salt shaker' GP indicator and you have to glow that engine for a LONG time (+60 seconds) to see the wire in the indicator. It doesn't have a relay either.
where can i get a manual where can i buy a shop manual for my dozer d20:Banghead
Komatsu D20A6 Help Hello, I posted this in another forum, I think it was the wrong one so I am trying it here. My D20A6 won't pull on the left track. Right side pulls fine. Any ideas? Brake on left works fine, just won't pull. No noises, driveshaft spins. Thanks for any assistance.
It doesn't make any sound. The wire in the indicator breaks very easily when it gets old so it may be bad. A new one is about $20 +/- IIRC. Or you may not be getting any current to the system.:beatsme
:beatsme Could the left clutch linkage be stuck? :beatsme
Rangerfreak: Call D& M Machinery, 716-942-6318, see if he can help you with a manuel, he had one for my Mitsubishi. Also you might check on e-Bay, seems like I seen one there.
Dipsticks For some reason, I cannot get the picture of the dipsticks to download properly. Could someone just write which one is which? Thank you.
The dipstick under the brake pedal (D20) is for the main clutch case. The dipstick under the front edge of the seat is for the transmission and bevel gear case (also D20).
is it 12 or 24 this might sound like a stupid question but is the dozer 12 or 24 volt:beatsme
my D21A-5 is 24v system. has (2) 12v batts. connected in series under the operator's righthand console.
Welcome to Heavy Equipment Forums copperhead! :drinkup
My D20 is a 24V system with two 12V betteries connected in series, located behind the seat.
I think that they changed from 24v to 12v at the -7 series and later, but I could be wrong.
D20A6 Help Linkage is not stuck and everything seems to be operational. Could it be the steering clutches on the LH side are bad? The steering brake band has been replaced but I don't think the person that had it before me checked the clutches. Originally Posted by hopto211 Hello, I posted this in another forum, I think it was the wrong one so I am trying it here. My D20A6 won't pull on the left track. Right side pulls fine. Any ideas? Brake on left works fine, just won't pull. No noises, driveshaft spins. Thanks for any assistance.
have a quick question and my question is do i need any tool to flush the radiator on my dozer.the reason that i ask is because i am far away from it right now and i need to know what tools to take when i go down and service it. Thank you for your time and have a nice day.
typo tools P.s my dozer burns about 3 qts of oil a day any simple fixes for that as well.
3qts? You must have to work in a blue cloud...the only simple fix for that is another machine. Are you sure it's burning it?
Komastu My experience for manuals is, if you cant find them on Ebay, call the Komastu dealer. I have a good relation with my Cat and Komastu dealer, and they both may offer you after market parts, if not ask about them, they are usually cheaper. I ordered a set of manuals from the dealer for my excavator, cheaper than I could have gotten them on Ebay. Grey market Cat.s, I have a 320L and the A/C went out, boy did I have trouble getting the correct part, until I went to my Cat dealer and just luckily I found one of the old timers that uses books along with the computer. He sold me the parts manual for the machine, the writting was in Japanese, but the part numbers are in english, just look at the picture and get the number. Good forum
New guy here any place to get a ripper for D21??
Help! Brake adjustment for D21-7. Guys, Trying to adjust the brakes on my 1993 D21-7. Have done all the steps in the manual: removing rear panel, removing the two adjustment nut covers. THEN the problem starts! The manual says to "tighten adjustment nuts to torque of 4 kgm until the lining contacts the drum. Then, turn adjustment nuts in reverse directions for four rotations". It DOES NOT say to turn clockwise or counter-clockwise, but here is the problem. Those darn adjustment nuts won't move at all, in either direction even with a cheater bar. It is like they were frozen shut or something, but the manual offers no advice as to the problem. My dozer does have the joystick controls, and this may be the problem somehow. The parking brake is off. It is sitting on level ground, out of gear. Does anybody out there have any info about this??:beatsme Thanks, WD
Hey WD I adjusted mine, and I think they were tight also.....but I was able to adjust them.......I don't know if you can put heat on those nuts or not.....that would probably loosten 'em up, but may set machine on fire !!! Oil and trash may be in the bottom of area. Can't remember if I heated mine up or not.....a little propane torch would do it, if safe. Good Luck Pete
Welcome to Heavy Equipment Forums Krackerjack9! :drinkup
Pete, These adjustment nuts wouldn't take heat, because they seem to be several inches long and go down into the brake area. I see no corrosion (sp?) at all. I think I am overlooking something here.
Normal procedure is that you tighten the adjuster clockwise until the brake bands are touching the drums. Bear in mind that 4 kgm does not require a lot of effort. To provide the brake clearance you have to turn the adjusters counterclockwise. On the bigger dozers its back 4 flats (close to one full turn) so I wonder if this is a mistake in the book? Its very strange that the adjusters will not turn and I wonder if you need to have the engine running to release the brakes fully? but obviously have the blade in the ground when you try this
I wondered about that too...my D20 book says back off four full turns after tightening to 4kgf. Seemed like a lot but, my brakes work fine now. FWIW, 4kgm = ~29 ft/lbs
Brake Adjustment I will try this with engine running. Heck, I'll try anything. My manual says to back off for "four rotations", but since I can't get any movement at all in either direction, I guess thats a moot point. It seems strange that the manual doesn't mention anything about special circumstances, but I guess the -7 model with joystick isn't exactly the usual D21. I'll let you know back what happens. WD
Brake Adjustment solved. Well, success at last. With the joystick control (and possibly the model21 as well), when you shift the joystick to neutral the brakes are applied automatically. SO... to adjust the brakes the shifter has to be put in forward or reverse to unlock the brakes. Best not to do this with the engine running (unless you want to trot along behind to do the adjustment). This is not mentioned anywhere I can find, but file it away for future reference. WD
Well I been doing some research on this and that. Got a quote on a New D21-A7 and holey moley Batman way to much for me. Gave the place up in Sulphur Springs a call and the lady there was very nice and pretty informative on this and that. Now I am leaning towards getting a D31A now:Banghead :beatsme :Banghead what to do?? She mentioned that they are going to be recieving several more dozers around the end of the year and that they go to these auctions every 3 months so there should be plenty more coming in if you missed out on one. Now the reason I was going to go with the smaller dozer was weight issue but she mentioned that several customers haul these out of there with pickup trucks yes they have them on a gooseneck dual axle trailer but I wonder if this gets you in a grey area with the DOT guys???
PM me. I have some information you might like to have about an outfit in Sulphur Springs.
To Krackerjack9 about your Dozer. Whoa boy! No such thing as a "new D21-7". They are all D21-8's for the last two years or so. You are absolutely right in that new ones are way, way too much. I was quoted over $50,000 eight months ago on one. No way. You need to be looking at a mid-ninetys D21-7 with +/- 2000 hours, newly replaced undercarriage, joy stick controls, six way blade and American installed ROPS (with sweeps if you are going under lots of trees). This should cost you less than twenty grand. Machine Trader list lots of prices and you can find some good machines and lots and lots of junk. Be sure to get one without the silly umbrella shade and some real roll over protection. Remember a deal too good to be true always is. I bought mine at Artec Equipment in Alabama, but wherever you buy always go to the dealer and try it out. But FIRST, learn all you can about the dozer. This forum is a great start. You can check out a picture of mine that I posted sometime last June or July on page 7. About the D31. Sometimes I wish I had more pushing power when the big trees show up, but then I think about how much more expensive the '31 is to maintain and run, and I really like how I can get into some really tight working spaces with mine. Hauling could be a big factor with you. I would haul mine with a gooseneck and a diesel F250, but no way would I haul a D31 that way. I do not speak from experience here as I don't need to move mine around. Keep us posted on your progress.:usa
yeah I was adding up the numbers, dozer 16500, trailer 5000, truck 6000. that puts you over 26,000lbs, I have a CDL which is no problem but most 2500/3500 series trucks from 04 and up they can pull the weight, but your over the gross weight by a pretty good margin. The new Chev 2500HD series can go as high as 24,000lbs and from what I have been hearing on some of the truck forums the wieght is not a issue as long as you dont do something stupid. Its the total wieght what will get you in trouble with the DOT guy or your local state trooper. But I am going to be on mainly on FM and SR and county roads so I could roll the dice, I dont think it will be issue but then this means I got buy me a new truck Now if I can only decide on the color of truck:beatsme . If I got one job with it every 2 months that took me 2 or 3 days then that be fine with me. Once one has worked over here you soon realize that there are so many more important things to do beside work and work and work
neat article well found this one person who has a D20A-6 and seems like its a win win win http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...tsu-d20a-6-a.html?highlight=komatsu+bulldozer Its in the construction section, neat little part about getting a whole schematic on your Komatsu dozer parts, if only I was home:usa :usa
convert Rubber tracks back to steel tracks There are some new D21's for sale but they have the rubber tracks, is it possible to switch them out for steel tracks?? Or is the whole set up totally different??
Been taming our mountain with the D21, this little dozer has impressed the heck out of me pushing over trees and moving dirt. Removing stumps with our old Case backhoe(1966 model 440) would require re-positioning the machine several times and take FOREVER to get 1 done. With the dozer I can make a cut on the backside then come around and roll the stump over, up and out of the ground in a matter of minutes!! I'm planning to do a maintenance day over the Christmas/NewYears holidays, and have a couple or 3 questions maybe someone here has an answer for: 1) what is the factory spec. on intake and exhaust valve clearance? 2) my leftside steering lever comes back much further than the rightside lever, is this a simple brake adjustment? specs? 3) the glow plugs are not heating, nor is my 'saltshaker' glowing when I turn the key CCW. Anybody have a wiring diagram that is scan-able or email-able for a 1985 D21A-5. still watching ebay for a manual, there is a guys selling CD manuals for -7 & -8 models, sez the -5 and -6 is 'similar'....... Thanks, MikeK
Mike, I have a -6 but, I'll bring my manuals in this Friday and post this info for you. Can't imagine it being much different. R
Hey R Leo Hey guys I'm not trying to hijack this thread but I can't figure out how to send a PM or I don't have access to that feature. Anyway........ I've read the thread you started about your new leaf that you recently turned over and have lots of questions I'd like to ask you. I have also looked at the web page from the place in Sulphur Springs and would like to ask you about that as well. If you are willing to let me pick your brain could you send your email address to me at: [email protected]
Let me back up and start over Guess I should have made my first post a little more like this. Hi guys. Been reading here in the background for a while now. What a great forum! I haven't seen anything like it anywhere else. As a group you are more helpful and civil than most any on the net these days. I'm hoping to keep gathering information for quite a while. Heck I might even have something to add someday. Merry Christmas and Ho Ho Ho to you all!
Welcome to HEF!
R Leo, that would be GREAT, I appreciate it. This IS a wonderful forum. MK
Why not ask your questions here? That's what the forums are all about! After 3 posts, you will be able to use all of the member accessories.
Welcome to Heavy Equipment Forums Doodlesock! :drinkup
All this is out of my D20p-6 manual.... Intake - .032mm (0.0137") Exhaust - .05mm (0.0196") Don't know for sure about the -5 but that doesn't sound like an adjustment. Does everything work OK? Here you go: Wiring Diagram
R Leo, you are The MAN!! I ran my machine a few hours yesterday, pushing over white pines 20" dia. and 75-80' tall.....incredible what this 10k lb machine can do. I did not pull the floor pan yet, but have a feeling there is a brake adjustment for each steering lever under the pan. Now that I have a wiring diagram I will solve my non-functioning glow plugs. With cold weather in the NC mountains I've been having to hit a spritz of ether at the air intake to get this thing to lite up, I'd much rather have the GP's operational. thank you very much, Mike
HP ratings on engine models I been doing some research on the engines that power these D21/D20 This may not be all of them but this is what I have came up with 4D95S-1 rated 40HP 2.69 liter engine 4D94E-1A rated 36HP 2.77 liter engine 4D95L-1 rated 50HP 3.26 liter engine 4D98E-1A rated 50HP 3.32 liter engine 4D94LE-2 rated 39HP 3.05 liter engine now from what I can gather the 50Hp rated engine are from 75001 thur 78603 for the 4D95L-1 and the 4D98E-1A is rated 50hp from 78604 and up but its hard to determine the cutoff but it looks like it might cut off at 82900 but I am not sure. So no wonder some of these people are having some good luck on these when they only thought they had 40Hp dozers. I guess its best to start looking at engine codes to factor in your puchase if so desired:cool2 :cool2
The deck plate (the piece under your feet) and seat plate (what the seat is bolted to) can be removed for full access to the brake/clutch linkages. I don't know about the -5 but, these are the adjustment specs for the -6 steering linkages. Steering adjustments Hope this helps.
Comparing A and P Models I have read the following and need some clarification from you guys: The A model dozer will push harder than the P. Does it only seem to push harder due to a smaller blade? Will the P push hard enough to make good use of it's blade? The P tracks are hard on the undercarriage. Have you found this to be true? How much would you suspect it shortens undercarriage life? Would you prefer standard grousers or pyramid tracks? The pyramid tracks seem to be more readily availble. This may be due to more pyramids being available or due to standard grousers being more in demand. Don't know which.
I have a D20P-7 with pyramid tracks and I can tell you that they work great on deep mud and soft dirt. However its hell on the rocky areas. The wide tracks are proably part of the reason mine were forced off the front idler when working in lots of large rocks. Again the same for the "P" blade, full loads in soft dirt but on rocky areas the dozer seems underpowered and/or undersized. Don't know about undrcarriage lifetime, will depend on how much you punish it. It will have an easy life if you never get into large rocks or stumps.
in April Well if things go the way they are going I should be getting a 1998 D21A-7 in Early April. Im just going to be using it to clear brush mostly that south Texas Sage.
I think the Pyramid style tracks is mostly due to the application that the dozers were orginally spec out for, Muddy and really soft ground. you look at the PSI on the grouser tracks vs the Pyramid or even rubber tracks your going to let you know how much traction more or less your going to get.
Newby Dozer wannabe I read this whole thread and learned alot. I love this forum. I'm a newbie to the dozer world. I'm looking for a smaller dozer like the D21P-7 to do some clearing on my place in Texas. Will this dozer handle cedar, oak, and elm up to 10"? I have some spots that has deep sand (1-2')will I require the pyramid tracks? I also have some clay at depth and some at the surface will the pyramid tracks get enough traction when the clay is hard? What is the fuel consumption of this dozer? Are the joystick machines easier to learn on or are the lever control ones easier? What is the best way to learn besides just getting out on it and driving? Does anybody know of a D21P-7 in Texas that is in good shape for sale? What is a good price for this machine? I have seen them from 12K to 24K. :beatsme Thanks in advance for your contribution to my education!! Jim
Sure. Just don't expect to take these size trees down in one pass. I needed to take out a large post oak (10"-12" dia and 35'-40' tall) on a job earlier this week. It took over an hour to get it out and I had to excavate out on all four sides of the trunk. The resulting hole was big enough to hold the machine when I was done Understand that I'm new to this whole thing and have little experience but it seems to me that because the dozer is so daggone light (<10k lbs) I don't think the pads (pyramid or grousers) make that much difference on these little machines when it comes to traction. I'd make my decision on tracks based on the terrain you'll be working in...pyramids for sand, grousers for rock. 1/2 GPH has been my average. That's what I did.
R Leo, Thanks for the input, sounds like I will not be pushing over very many larger oaks. I don't plan on taking out very many of the larger(10") size trees. Most of what I need to clear is brush, smaller mesquites, cedars, elms and some smaller oaks. I was just trying to find out the upper limit of this size dozer. 1/2 GPH sounds pretty good. I hope I find a dozer in good condition for a good price soon. Thanks Again, Jim
i am working on a komatsu d-20 p6 and wondering how to remove the steering clutchs on the right side, i have tore into it and have the final drive off the right side but i cant get the shaft out that goes into the clutch pack out to the final drive! any help would be appreciated. and what do i have to do to be able to start new treads?
ttt
I'm no help on the clutch pak shaft but, around here, you have to post several responses to threads before you're permitted to start one.
any sujestions!
What's wrong with the dozer?... like most other multi-disc clutch/band type brake dozers the steering clutch has to come out through the top. There should be no reason to remove the final drive :beatsme
i thought that the final drive had to come off because the shaft goes from the final drive into the clutch pack. not sure though, htis is a trial and error thing for me. i have tank and everthing off and can see the clutch pack but dont know how to get it out. the dozer will turn right sometimes and wont sometimes it will chock the engine off if you try to turn right. not sure whats wrong just trying to figure it out.
Sounds like the RH clutch is not releasing and when the brake applies it stalls the engine but you should ensure that the pressure is OK and the release piston and yoke are moving fully.... before you start disassembly (ooops) Once you are sure the problem is in the clutch assy then it can be removed by removing the rings of bolts on either side. You will need to rotate the sprocket to get at all the bolts then just lift it straight out.
thanks! i will let you know what i find!
Love Em I've been running komatsu dozers for about 9 years and I think they are the best finish dozers out there!!! I've been running a 41E since 2000 and love it but my company took it the other day and is got me the new 51. Didn't think anything could compare to the 41 but so far I love it!!! BETTER VIEW!!!
Welcome to Heavy Equipment Forums MUDSLINGERS! :drinkup
well this is a long thread. actually didnt read any of it. but i am in the market for a used dozer to use on the ranch here and possibly make a little money with. i was thinking d3. but i want something i can pull with my 3/4 dodge cummins. is this what im looking for? a d 21?
My d20 has a 4D92-1 and the label says 38hp
anyone have a photo of the deck plates for a -3, someone removed mine and never replaced them.
Welcome to Heavy Equipment Forums dane busth! :drinkup
The new 51 is nice, and a great finish dozer, but the first problem i ran into is that you have to have a special permit to haul it here in oklahoma, not like my old 41 that I can just pick up and take anywhere I want, now I have to wait on that little paper to say i can move it!!! That's so much waisted time!!!!!! But other than that, I love it. I do alot of finish work, and guys I am telling you, I have ran all kinds of finish dozers and this has everything you could want in a dozer ( visibilty, power, and comfort.)!!!! JUST TRY ONE!
I am looking at a basket case Komatsu D53 A seller says his mechanic quit and left him with a partially repowered Komatsu D53 with a 4 way blade. He says UC is good and that it just had new pumps installed before the original engine cratered. He says they installed a 5.9 Liter Cummins truck engine, but never finished putting it back together. Tommorow I am going to go look at it and see if any of this makes sense. I can only wonder why the mechanic quit and if it had anything to do with how honest this guy is. My other questions are what can you tell me as to good and bad points of that model machine besides the problem with it being 2 wide to move without permits. Thanks John My other machine is a D20 with swamp pads. It has been relatively trouble free after I had the radiator rebuilt and the front idlers shimmed so the tracks would quit coming off. I did have to make special plugs for the front axles so I could use zerk fittings to force grease into my front hubs. It took a weird fine metric tread bolt. I drilled and tapped the ends for zerks and put the new grease fittings on both sides. It started when I heard a weird squeaking noise in the right track one day when I was moving it without ear plugs. Turned out the front right idler hub was hot as a pistol. Not wanting to pull the track off to rebuild the bearings I opted for the lubricate and see method of repair. So far so good. Nobody has seized up and squeak is gone. Below is picture of D20 getting new rollers after old ones fell off and just prior to me finding out the left fuel tank support was full of cracks and about to drop my tank off the back. Notice 1/2 x 1 mild steel bar I used as grousers. If I had it to do again I would have used fewer because now it just stalls instead of spinning. This is OK most of the time because I treat the old girl pretty easy.
hugger, how do you like that D20?
How I like D20 Motor is as smooth as glass until I stall it. Starter bendix is going out and It is a trick to start. Machine is a good size for working around farm but the transmission does not have a low enough gear for real pushing and machine is too light for heavy clearing. Angle blade can dig around stumps and I have dug out huge ash tree stumps with it. Requires patience and tenacity. Others have said this guy was designed for grading fill dirt and I think that is propably true. I have used it hard but fair here on our land north of Waco Tx. Swamp tracks wear out fast because of the much higher stress that the extra width grousers put on the pins, bushings and rollers. But the tracks let you put every bit of horsepower behind the load. I find pushing straight forward and back is much less stressful to the machine. It will not steer using clutches pushing a load because it just spins the other track. I steer using blade tilt. See my post from 4-15-07 for picture of D20 in bottom of pond we dug. Search by user name then reply title: price of parts and location, location, location
Hugger,With that being said would you do the D20 again or the D21?
Whether to D20 or not to D20, That is the question! I believe the straight blade D20 I got was the most machine for the money I could afford at the time. If I had it to do again I would have prefered to have gotten a 6 way instead of the 4 way blade for a couple of grand more.
this is a great thread! I have an older 21P, I would guess to say a late 80's model. What a great little dozer. But I do need to get some work done to it. I have the same problem as others on this thread, that the machine will pull with the right track and turn left but the left track slips and turning right can sometimes be a problem. If I am reading properly, I can remove the floor plate and the seat to get at the clutches and brakes? And how do I get them out? Must I remove the final drives and the tracks or can they come out from the top? And what should I do to them. Also it sometimes takes an arm and a leg to pull the steering lever. I have a manual but it is a little vague. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks James
Komatsu Clutch rebuild tool 791-417-5000? According to my manual you need clutch compressor tool 791-417-5000. From the bad picture, what this looks like is something like a couple of discs and a threaded rod. Does anyone have a drawing of the tool with dimensions which one could then make a similar one from scratch? Remember the right jig is worth a thousand swear words. If anyone has a CAD drawing of the tool and they can figure out how to insert that image into this thread, it would be most helpful. Another helpful hint would be where to get reasonably priced clutch discs for the D20-21 's Here in Dallas there is a local clutch and brake outfit that can reline the brake bands but I'm not sure about the clutch plates. John
There's a guy selling rollers, sprockets and clutch parts on eBay sometimes. Here's his current ad: eBay
D21-5 starter armature burned up as title sez, starter is shot. Took it to 'old school' starter/generator shop and they have no sources that supply replacement armatures for this starter. Komatsu price for a rebuilt is $780 plus $280 core, and even with old starter you must pay core so it can be returned to Komatsu for evaluation and credit adjustment. anybody here have a source for used parts? TIA, MikeK
Komatsu Parts Try the following websites: http://www.plant-parts.com/komatsu.htm or http://www.aisequip.com/Parts/UsedParts/tabid/81/Default.aspx or http://www.machinerytrader.com/listings/partsSearch.aspx?pdcl=1&PCID= The machinerytrader site list Komatsu dozers being torn down for parts. I would try that first.
found a used starter from guy in TX who sells dozer parts on ebay: ktbaugh. very nice to deal with, guarentees the starter to fit and work well. has UC and steering parts in stock, plus parting out a D21 right now
Found this guy on EBay. Have not done business with him yet but he shows to sell a lot of starter and alternator parts for equipment. Oklahoma Starter Alternator Parts [email protected] 1-800-336-0769 Lexington OK
Is a D20 or D21 block a wet sleeve or bored design?
Komatsu Used Parts Try Tractor & Equipment in Birmingham, Al. They are the largest Komatsu used parts dealer in the country. http://www.tecusedparts.com/
Ray, Tomorrow, I'll look at the big yellow book and see if I can tell if it's wet or bored. Did you get my PM? R
Randy, I did not get the PM, please try again.
Ray, I can't tell if it's a wet liner or bored. The big yellow book is rather incomplete when it comes to the engine's specifics (it does show service such as water pump removal, valve adjustment, etc...); I guess since that same engine is used in Komatsu forklifts and possibly other equipment, there must be a separate manual for the engine. Sorry I wasn't able to help. R PS check PMs
d31p steering Hi all, I'm working on a d31p (with no svc manual) the problem is it wont steeron level ground. It works fine on a hill or even if you lift the front end with the blade. all 3 dipsticks under the seat seem to begood ( checked running @ low idle) Any ideas? thanks Louie
I took the right side engine compartment panel off my D20P-7 to make some repairs and noticed another oil cap. Is this just another fill port for the engine oil?
is it ok is it ok to use low sulfer diesel in my dozer
hey guys, new here, been browsing for a while but now need advise. I have a Mitsubishi BD2G-II (rubber tracked) that I had a track bump off, when it did it seems to have ripped one of the grousers (I think thats what those little peg guides are called) out of the rubber on one side (forward edge looks like it pulled out of the rubber). My plan was to drill holes across the tracks through the grouser and re-bolt the grouser back into place. Will that work? I dont have the cash right now to buy new tracks so I'm hoping for a fix. (although I would love to have some steel tracks, the rubbers dont get nearly the traction I'd like)
BD2G Tracks Those rubber tracks on your BD2G are useless.....they are more expensive to replace than steel,& only have VERY limited usage. Rhine equip in Tacoma have steels,or try John at tractorparts.com....he was wrecking a few,I think. I think there are a few being wrecked in the USA. In Australia,I can get parts for them Jim
yeah, I live about 20 min from Rhine but I dont have the $ for new tracks (or used) so I'm hoping that I can fix these to work for now. I tried drilling through the grouser plate but the metal has been hardened pretty good so I'm not sure I'll be able to do it.
Track tension I pulled the dozer out of the barn to do some work and I could not get grease into the right track grease fitting. I put a new grease fitting on but it didnt help. Maybe the arm is stuck. Anybody have any tricks to possibly getting this fitting to accept grease. The one on the other side works great. Can the front idler wheel be moved forward and back someway to get the piston moving?
I forgot to mention it is a D20-5. Any help is appreciated.
A track grease fitting? Pease tell me all about it. Check this thread for some stuff about fittings not accepting grease: Grease
Did you get your fitting to accept grease? Which way worked the best, a red hot welding rod?
Well I put the red torch to the track frame recoil spring assembly after running a hot wire into the assembly. I removed the zerk fitting and grease fitting the zerk screws into. The wire went almost all the way into the piston, so I know there is no blockage. So then I looked at the grease fitting that holds the zerk. I cleaned the fitting out with brake parts cleaner and got the plunger one way seal inside to start working. I reassembled the zerk into the fitting and attached the grease gun to see if it would work before putting it back on the track assembly. Well low and behold grease shot right through. I re-assembled and started to pump grease, and all of the sudden the grease gun locked on the zerk fitting again, hard as a rock. So once again un-assemble, clean grease fitting and check again. I did this twice, clean, check, then re assemble, with the same results. Maybe half a pump then hard as a rock. So my conclusion is the grease fitting that holds the one way spring loaded valve that holds the zerk fitting has to be bad. Any other Ideas?
I haven't done anything with it yet...too busy with other broken things. When I finish the job I'm on now, I need to do some PM and I think I'll tackle those blade frame fittings at the same time.
Guys, Need some help with the idler adjustment. I have a D21P-7 and have noticed some excess play at the front of the track. Looked in my manual for information on adjustment, and they say to remove shims from the guide plate to tighten the clearance between the guide plate and the track frame. They say to loosen bolt (1) and pull out the shim. The only problem is that they do not show where bolt (1) is. No diagram, no picture no nothin'. Is there any help out there?
It has 4 bolts holding the plates on each side. (4 bolts each plate) The shims are behind the plates on each side. I tightened mine up by removing shims. I got to thinking about it and realized that the rail was worn some and I had tightened up the plates to a worn area of the rails. I had 'em pretty tight with about .020" each side, I think. If the thing ever needed to move back it wouldda jammed. Say, a piece of wood in the sprocket and the idler needed to come back and compress the big spring that tensions the track....to keep something from breaking until the sprocket could rotate and hopefully, the wood or whatever would fall out. I think it needs enuf room to be able to slide back in case of a mishap like this....just be aware of this feature and that it must be able to move backwards if this occurs......or.....something is gonna break !!!!! I was told that is what the spring feature is there for and it makes sense. Good Luck Pete/MS
Idler Adjustment Thanks, Pete. I am a little concerned about the very thing you wrote about. I am using the P track (swamp track) and if I walk to the front of the track and place my feet on each side and shift my weight left and right, I get a lot of lateral wobble. Sometimes. At other times it seems tight. If it wobbled all the time, I would have no problem pulling shims out until it tightened up, but now I am afraid that by getting it tight in one position that it might be put in a bind while working. But the thing is pretty loose now, enough to concern me. I guess that I will pull one shim on the outside and one on the inside tomorrow and see if it works O.K. By the way. There is a recessed bolt in the middle of those four bolts that are loosened to take out the shims, and there is another nut on top of the assembly. Any idea what those are for? Keep a-clackin' Newman
Hi WD Am sure that is the oil fill. One on inside on one side and one on outside on other side. (Idlers are same ...no left and right. Those are the plugs I drilled and tapped for grease zerks. Was told not to do it, but this old thing was mighty dry. I give it a few shots of grease every other time I use it. $1 a tube Wal Mart grease....doing it a long time and she just slides along !!!! I got 6 new track rollers that I leave alone, but the other 4 originals ? Get the grease. No problems so far. I figure the 6 old ones died from no lube. The book says call Komatsu service for lube to the track rollers.....that ain't gonna happen. Good luck with it. Pete (D21P-6 on tag but according to work equipment...blade, U frame...it's a D21E-6) I went to Komatsu in Hattiesburg and they told me this.
Idler adjustment Hi Pete! Well, today I got under the dude and checked out the gap on the inside guide plate, and it looked like it was running about 1/4" rather than the .020 required. Took a couple of shims out, and now it checks out at about .030 on each side, and the wobble is much, much better. I don't THINK there is going to be any bind on them, and I let my better half drive it around while I watched and it look good to me! I didn't take off those bolts on the top of the guide plate, as my maintenance manual didn't mention anything about that at all, so I just let it be. While I was at it, I looked into turning the blade edge to get at the sharper side, but those bolts are really in there! Have you turned yours, and if so what did you use to break those bolts loose?
Hi WD I reckon you are talking about the plug in the middle of the guide plate (one per idler roller). I can't recall any bolts on top of the guide plates. Nope....never messed with the cutting edge...it's sharp. Me and the welder brother did cut a hunk out of the rod in the top center of blade suspension to make it shorter and give the blade some angle...further out at the bottom. This machine has been used hard. I know that undercarriage work has been done in the past, and maybe they redid the edge of the blade then.The main pivot for the blade is worn out...we put a piece of 3/4" plate in the joint to shim up the blade where the socket is. Heck, it works good ! Got lots of slop in the main joints that hold the blade assembly on the base of the machine. One day I hope to pull the pins out and get the bro to make some kind of bushings to take the slop out. With a lot of good ole walmart grease in there, then it should outlast me ....ha ha ha.
Greetings. Just got signed in. Have been reading this thread for a couple of weeks. Came up with some questions, so figured I needed to register and ask since there seems to be a lot of info here. I traded a tractor and baler for my first dozer a couple of months ago. I now have a D21A. Have enjoyed digging up a few trees so far. So here is a couple questions for now. 1. I am pretty sure I have one weak battery. Has anyone replaced the rather thin battery with a standard size one? Both of mine appear to have come straight out of Japan. 2. I know it has been "refurbished". Seat and armrests recovered. Repainted and lettered. What I was hoping to find out was why under the yellow paint it appears the original color was green. The decal under the access door that shows where the grease zerks are, is in Japanese. However the gear shift and other items are in English. 3. I have learned a little about the tracks by reading here. I think the treads are called grousers? I have seen the knife shape and the triangle shape. My machine has a different one. It has a raised flat tread, I guess about an inch wide. Does any one know anything about this type of "grouser"? Thanks for any info you can provide for this novice dozer dude.
Hi Danny My older D21-P (or E) has the 24 volt system......2 standard automotive batteries connected in series. They fit just rite in the battery tray behind and below the seat. Don't know what the original battery looks like. I guess the original paint on mine was yellow.......no green anywhere. I got the LGP triangle shaped pads for my tracks. Know nothing about other kinds of tracks. (Not much about these....ha) I got the hydroshift one. 2 forward and 2 reverse speeds. It has been battered around but is running really good. Good Luck Pete/MS
I've got a Mitsubishi BD2G and it has twin car sized 12v batteries in series to make 24v like "kc5gxc" dozer also. An inch wide or an inch high? How about posting a pic of what you've got. and last but not least.... :drinkupWELCOME:drinkup
Jim, any suggestions for the repair / replacement of a rusted track tensioner shaft? It will most likely need the seal kit too, as I took a link out to get the idler sitting back and now the tensioner won't hold. It was half expected as the chrome shaft was pitted from rust. We are in Hobart, Tasmania.
D21 Danny, In our temperate climate,2 medium duty car batteries seem to go OK in the Mitsubishi dozers,so the Komatsu should fare OK.I'm not sure about the cold areas of the USA. The single grouser track plates are for general dozing work,the pyramid apex plates are for swamp/soft areas work,& the triple grousers are for excavators & crawler loaders like the D21S.Sometimes you'll find triple grousers on small imported dozers...often they are small excavator tracks replacing original worn out swamp tracks. The green colour will likely mean your unit was in a rental fleet in Japan. I once owned a green Mitsubishi BD2F dozer. A lot of these small dozers suffered undercarriage corrosion in Japan,& some get a refurb before being shipped to auctions. Digger,let me know if you need Mitsy parts.I can also get some D21 Undercarriage. Jim
Mate, I'm letting you know!!! How / where do I get the chrome shaft I was asking about?
Not sure how to post photos yet. I guess the best discription I could provide re: the track is the grouser part is shaped like a small letter "T". Havn't measured, but approx an inch tall and an inch wide. Thanks for the info on the batteries. I won't spend time looking for original shape. If I can learn how to post photos, I'll include those also.
A quick search should get you this A "T" shape is weird...
BD2 Shaft for Digger Sorry Mate...I missed that post. Just got 4 shafts in....maybe contact me at: [email protected] Those rods are a problem in many Mitsy dozers...the salt ,mud & gravel must be nasty in Japan. I fixed a BS3F last year & it's still tensioned OK. I can get Engine parts,Starters,Alternators,Steering discs & Drums,Undercarriage ....& working on more stuff now. Jim
Hey I'm from your area to get ahold of me! Nice to see someone from this area too!! Let's get together and talk!
Hello Digger145. My posting rules tell me I can not post attachments. I think I have to be a member for a certain amount of time or so many replies first. Hello to Mudslingers. Good to see another Okie here. What part of the state do you call home?
You've made your third post, in another hour you'll be promoted to full status and be able to post pictures.
Miami, just up the road
Ok - this is my third try to post a photo. Hope it works. Had to do the resizing thing. When I took a close look at the track to take the picture, I saw the flat edges had been welded on. Is that for a specific purpose? Had to park the new toy in the shead. Been doing much needed maintance on the tractor we use to bale hay. Haying will keep my oldest son and I busy for a while. Local bank sign said we broke 100 degrees today. I believe it was accurate.
Just purchased a Komatsu D21A-5 !!!!!!!!!! I would like to let this forum know that I, just today, took delivery of a Komatsu D21A-5. I first saw it several weeks back and decided to check it out on the web, where upon doing so, I came across this forum. The info in this forum goes beyond any manual a person could buy. It's a complete wealth of info. Hello to everyone. I plan to be a participant .
My new Dozer Hello dozer forum. My Komatsu D21A-5 has a serial # 54786. Does this mean anything to anyone? It has about 1735 hours on the meter. 6 way blade. I paid $8,500.00 for it. Seems a good deal when compared to what's selling on Ebay. Also, there is a lot of info concerning which fluids to use. Can someone list the proper fluids to use in my machine in the summer and the fall. I live in Massachusetts. This fall the dozer goes to southern Maine to start it's snowmobile trail clearing job thru the woods on old logging trails. Can I somehow add a 3point hitch to it and a winch? Thanks In Advance.
Hi Frank Sounds like you got a good deal on that machine. I think you should order the 3 books that you will need. 1)Operation and maintenance manual 2)Shop manual 3)Parts Book These are what I ordered when I got mine (different model). They answer all the questions on your machine correctly. I have used mine a lot. Think I ordered from "Antique Tractor" site ......... can't remember but can probably find out. Good luck, Pete/MS
Welcome to Heavy Equipment Forums Frank Dozer! :drinkup
Komatsu D21A-5 Voltage ????????? I now have the operation / maintenance manual and the parts manual for my Komatsu D21A-5 serial # 54786. I've read every word in both ( I hope ) and the starting voltage is 24 volts. But what are the night lights and the backup alarm systems voltage? : beatsme
Hi Frank I don't have all that stuff on my antique one. Why not just use a meter to find out ? Pretty well gotta be 24 V if that's what the available power is. Good luck Pete
Hi Frank. I tend to agree with Pete that all electrical on the unit is 24 v. I believe my D21A-5 also has a serial # in 50,000 series. Will check tomorrow after the rain stops. I payed a site more than $8K though, up here in Northrn BC, Canada. Where did you get your manuals?
Manuals and engine oil and ROPS ????? Hi Kbeamish, I got the manuals from SSB Tractor on the internet. 3 total. Measured the voltage at the old light, it's 24 volts. I have a question :beatsme for the group. In my Komatsu D21A-5 serial # 54786, it says to use 30 weight CD oil for the engine. The Komatsu dealer says use 15W40 diesel oil. Has anyone else heard this and what do you use? Also, I have the canopy top on my dozer. Where can I get a ROPS or plans to build one. I have a complete weld shop so no problem making one. I also need the sweeps. Can someone send me pictures of their ROPS and sweeps. Thanks Again, Frank
Hi Frank Sending a couple pics via email of my dozer w/homemade rops and sweeps Pete
kc, I'd appreciate a look at those sweeps too.
Komatsu Hydrostat Trans and Damper Have any of you guys ever checked the oil in the vibration damper on the back of the engine ????? Think this is only for the hydrostatic trans hookup. Pete (D21P-6)
I also have the canopy. I would like to see those pics, also. Thanks.
Hi, I'm new and can't post yet as well. I have had a TD-8Efor 7 years and I love it. It is easy to work on and does everything I've asked of it including clearing several lots and a 12 acre and 20 acre site. My question is "I am cleaning/painting my dozer, and I am looking for a reasonable source for a decal kit for my Dresser TD-8E. Anyone with any thoughts? Thanks
http://www.ytmag.com/crawlers/wwwboard1.html Try the above site....I bet they know. Good Luck Pete
I'm new to the forum and apparently can't post yet and am trying to learn how to navigate the forum. I recently purchased a Komatsu D21A-6 s/n 69588. I have the shop manual, but just ordered the operator and maintenance manual. Someone had worked on the machine and it still wasn't functioning properly. I discovered the linkage to the steering valve was way out of adjustment and now the machine will perform, but when cold seems to be no steering pressure. Need to know how to properly check the fluid in the transmission. Treefarmer
kc5gxc, I also am interested in building ROP and Sweeps. Pics would be very much appreciated. treefarmer
Ok......here is a pic of my poor old dozer.....it is ratty looking. The Rops is homemade...sweeps too......the top of the canopy is 1/4" steel plate. Ain't no telling what this all weighs.....gives me stability at high speeds.....ha ha ha. I am looking for a set of regular seat belts to put on it. Anybody got a set to sell ? Hope this pic gets on the forum. Good luck Pete PS: This is a D21P-6 but the work equipment shows in the Komat book to be for an E model. Found this out at the Komat place in Hattiesburg, MS. The machine has D21P-6 on it. Seat is out of a '95 Topaz, I think.
kc5gxc Thanks for the pic. Looks good to me. Fits the machine very nicely. Now if I can download the pic to my computer? Kinda new at this. I still don't have the operator/maintenance manual yet. Need to know how to properly check the transmission fluid level. It is currently low on the stick when running and overfilled when shut down. Have been advised to check it when shut down. It's a D21A-6 Thanks again Pete, Treefarmer
Can Grease the track adjusters....... First of all, I'd like to say a Thank You !!! to Pete for the excellant picture of his dozer with homemade ROPS. If you don't mind, I'm going to copy it to my dozer. Now, I have a ( hopefully not ) :Banghead problem. My dozer is a Komatsu D21A-5, and the track sag ( Regular tracks, not rubber or swamp tracks ) is 2.5 inches. So I tried to use my grease gun to get the required 1.5 inches of sag per the owners manual. The grease fittings won't take grease. Grease just squirts out around the grease fitting to grease gun connection. I then tried to remove the fitting, but it's really rusted on to the cylinder. Does anyone have any ideas on how to remove the fitting? Heat, ballpean hammer, etc........... Also, I guess I have to remove the 2 small bolts that hold the grease fitting protector. I'm going to soak them with PB Blaster until I decide :beatsme what to do...Has anyone else had this happen and how did you resolve it ? Frank
Frank they are more common than you would think. Yours are probably metric too. I just try with a wrench first to see if they will come loose:bash if not I try the hammer and a chisel to try to spin it:bash if that doesn't do it by now it's probably broken off flush with the housing. Now for the rest of the story:usa time for the drill and easy out. that always seems to work for me:dizzy. Don't know why I don't do it first but I always get there in the end. :drinkup Hope this helps you. Fred reddog848
Hello Fred Thanks for the advice !! Have you ever used heat? Such as an acetylene torch and heated the cylinder at the base of the adjuster and backed it out? Frank
Hey Frank Those things can have lots of pressure on them. You should back it out about 1/2 turn and the pressure will release from the lower part of the special valve/fitting. If you break it off, it may fly out with great force. These grease fitting/valves can be ordered. I got mine from Heavyquip. Take care Pete
Still hoping for a reply about how to properly measure the fluid level in the transmission as I don't have the operater/maintenance manual. Does it need to be warmed up? I know it sounds like a mundane question. But it's reading low when running and overfilled when shut down. D21A-6 Sam
That is for a D21A-6 on the previous post. Sam
Fluid level in the transmission... Sam, I have a D21A-5. In my operator's manual this is what it reads: CHECK BEFORE STARTING I check my fluids before I start my dozer every day. Hope this helps, Frank
Frank, Thank you. That's exacly what I need to know. Will drain some fluid off. Not sure what impact it will have if any. I do know that the the fluid is drawn from the transmission for the circuits which includes the steering valve. Regards, Sam
Greasing The Track Adjusters....... Hello Forum, Well, I still can't get the adjusters to accept grease. I push in the ball on the fitting and a small amount of grease squirts out. I have soaked the fitting with PB Blaster, but it won't turn, and I don't want to use muscles on it in fear that I might snap it off. The nipple has been reduced in overall diameter, due to rust from not being cleaned off over the years. I also don't want to use heat because of different reasons. I was thinking, is there a tool that can go over the old nipple and extend to a new grease fitting? Maybe a grease hose with a clamp to a new fitting? Any thoughts??? Frank
Hi Frank All I can tell you is that on mine, I had no cover....long since gone. One of the grease adjuster fittings was so rusted, it would not take grease due to the fitting being worn out and rusted out of shape. (I could hold the grease gun on hard and get some grease into it) I unscrewed the whole fitting about 1/2 turn to 3/4 turn I think....and the pressurized grease came out of the lower part to relieve the pressure the spring had on it. It unscrewed fairly easily. (with a wrench) When the pressure releases, the spring contracts and slack appears in the track, as the idler wheel comes back to the rear a bit. I installed a new fitting assembly and was back in business. The fitting was only a few bucks..... You got the new one yet? If so,the people who sold it to you should be able to tell you some info on replacing it !!! Heat on that area may not be a good idea...but I would check with somebody that knows about that more than me. Good Luck Pete/MS
Track Tension I recently replaced the grease fitting for the track tension, wouldn't accept grease. Did the hot rod trick-no luck, bought the oil injector hammer to clear it out, no luck. So can anyone explain to me how to take this apart and repair this. Does the track have to come off, if so how? Also How do I take the tensioner off with that huge spring. I know there must be a trick to it, it looks like one unit. Any help is greatly appreciated. scott:Banghead
Hi Scott You gotta have room left for the piston and rod to move forward. It may be fully extended if the tracks, etc...are worn. You can look at the forward rails in front of the idler. On mine, I got about 2" of rail left that the idler can move forward. As far as removing the spring....it's pre-compressed and can kill people if it gets loose. You would need to know exactly what to do to remove it, and maybe some kind of compression tool.....I have never messed with one, so don't know. I have just been warned about it. Let us know how you come out. I may have to remove springs one day. Good Luck Pete
as kc5x said, if you are at the end of track tensioning travel, the piston that the grease is pushing will be bottomed out, no more grease will pump into the fitting. if thats the case, I suppose its time for chain$ roller$ and $prockets. I rebuilt the tens. cyl. on my machine (posted a while back in this thread). Mine would pump up and tens. the track, but in an hour of operation the track would be slack again. You don't need to take the track off the machine but the job is made a WHOLE lot easier if you open up the tensioning grease fitting and allow(or force) the piston/cylinder to fully retract, giving you 6-8 inches of sag in the track. A comealong and chain are handy to hold the slack track out up out of the way. I has to use a torch and WD40 on many of the bolts to get them out, replaced with new ones from local hardware store. The spring section does not need to be dissassembled to do this job, and you DO NOT remove the bolts that capture the spring. Working on dozers is hard dirty work (I'd rather be spinning wrenches on AMA Superbikes) but I figure we all accepted that when we bought these little Komatsu's.
Just have a look at the front forks where the wheel idler slides, any room left to go forward? If not and the bushes in the chains haven't worn right through to the pins, consider just dropping a link. I.E. shortening the track chain by one link, to get a bit more life out of it. That's what we did on our BD2G and the 15 Ton digger. The dozer is still going, but we are having to do a chain on the excavator ATM. It does a lot more work than the dozer and we did get an extra 14 months out of the chain. If you can weld, hard facing and rebush the wheel idlers when reusing old chains is the go to. Don't choose the highest grade hard facing, it will be too brittle. If you need new undercarriage do it all at once, try not to mix new stuff. The trick is to try and make everything die at once. LoL
Mike, can you send me an email ( [email protected] )and any pics on what bolts to take off to get the spring assembly off and the piston out. My tensioner has about 2 inches of travel it can move forward, and the chains and sprockets are good. The yoke /piston wont move forward or back. I talked with the dealer I bought it from and he said he has used a excavator to push and pull them before to get them unstuck. He asked another dealer who said to used a porta power and try and move the piston to get it unstuck. Any info you can give on how you did yours would be helpfull. thanks scott:usa
Will the front idler compress back onto the spring at all? Drive up slow on a firewood round / log and it should slide back a bit on the recoil spring. It should be functioning separate to the track tensioner (grease part). I wonder if you have a broken recoil spring and it's fouling inside on the housing. If that was the case, the track tensioner could be pushed out as far as it would go, yet not transferring the movement through the spring. Forcing it would only make matters worse if that was the case. Check the spring is working. If you can't raise the blade and drag the wheel idler forward (inline or straight) with a car and a bit of chain, then it's too stuck IMHO. I only say this because there has to be a piston seal for the grease and you a going to stuff it, by dragging it over the "stuck area", be it rust or whatever. See my point?
Hey guys. Noob here. I'm looking at a D21P-7 with the joystick steering. What is your opinions between the joystick or the "two stick" (sorry don't know proper terminology ointhead) as far as reliability and ease of operation. Thanks in advance.
I haven't seen one of these, got any pics? I guess it would have hydrostatic drives at the sprockets much like a bobcat (skid steer) does. Just a guess though. The two stick type are all brake steer as far as I know. Pull the lever or stick and it takes the drive away from that side (clutch packs) and applies the brake to that side, drive continues on the other side providing turn as you know.
I do have a pic but need a couple more post' to post them. Theres one down.
Don't ya hate that. This might help. Tell us a bit about the dozer you are looking at buying. How much $$$ is it? How many hours? Have you read back through the thread(s) to get an understanding of undercarriage life and how wear presents and there-by inspect what you are buying?
The one I'm looking at is a 1993 D21p-7 w/1900 hrs asking $17,500. I have read the entire thread and do expect to have to put some money in undercarraige at some point. The dozer will be used for some light brush clearing at deer camp. I just haven't seen many joystick steering rigs to get a feel on it's reliabilty. Pics to come later .
Has anybody mentioned to have a close look at the dash screws? Try to see if the instrument panel cover has been removed to jigger with the hour meter.
No, but I don't trust hour meters anyway nor do I believe the hm is accurate. Just gotta value the tractor for it's condition alone. Here's a pic
Shame about the grousers and chains. Have a good look at the outer edges of the blade above the cutting edge, they get real thin there. I do a bit of gutter work with our 6 way PAT and as such have made half height cutting edges for it. Glad you can post pics now, Welcome BTW.
Jd650g Newby here looking to purchase a JD 650G LGP for cleaning up a 98 acre parcel that has been clear cut. Unfortunately, i don't know much about dozers ecept what little I have learned researching the net. Found several in the $30,000 to $40,000 + range. Any suggestions as what to look for or stay away from, Etc.? Thanks
joystick brake adjustment what panel and where is the bolt to adjust??
took a lot of reading all worth it I just got a d-21p-7 I have to make a brake adjustment with joystick I thought aww crap hows that work gonna go try now will report back. you guys stick around for us new bees and thank you in advance.
D21 Hi H8, Those little Komatsu are good machines,but after living as a rental unit in Japan,it will need close inspection. Look at the front idlers & see if they are tight or do they wiggle from side to side.Check rollers too.Swamp tracks are hard on dozers,if used in hard ground applications. Also look for rust/pitting in the undercarriage covers,frames & (especially) bolts.A lot of bolts become corroded & are very frustrating to work with,often breaking in half. A lot of ex-rental units going to auction,get some "beauty therapy" in Asia,before the auction. The missing plates speak volumes about your ability to "do a deal". Jim
filter part numbers? does any one the part numbers for every filter on a D-21p-7 ?
Hello, I've been lurking a while but just signed up. I have learned a lot from this thread about grey market dozers, so thanks to everyone for the contributions. I hope I haven't hijacked the thread. I apologize if I have.
Hey Shouldaben I can give 'em to you for a D21P-6. Don't know if they are the same. Pete
ITS OK I GOT THE NUMBERS OF THE ONES ON THE UNIT AND ORDERED THE HYDROLIC FROM KOMATSU DEALER. I RAN A COPY OF THE OIL SPECS TO HAVE THE TYPE OF OIL ECT. WHAT WOULD BE GREAT TO KNOW IS HOW MUCH OIL IN EACH SECTION. is $300 bucks to much for all three manuals?
Where did you find the manuals for the D21P-7? I need a set too.
I forgot what were the part numbers you came up with?
I got my D21P-6 manuals from SSB Tractor for $184.23 last year. Phone #s are: 1-877-698-3033 and 1-631-451-8706. These numbers are from last year. Lots of Japanese writing in 'em, but English also. Pretty good manuals........... 3 manuals....Parts-Shop and Operation and Maintenance. Good luck Pete/MS
I just called the LittleRock, AR komatsu dealer(H&E Equipment Services INC)
service done just completed complete service, Oil,Transmission,Bevel Tranny,Hydrualic,Fuel and Air filter. All fluid and filters new and fresh. Heres the funny part I like to never found the drain plug on the hydrualics yeah and then wow there it is. Now Question D21P-7 WHAT ARE THE PLUGS ON LEFT AND RIGHT SIDE OF THE BEVEL DRAIN PLUG. I PULLED THEM OUT FOUND NO FLUID OF ANY KIND IS THIS NORMAL.
Yep.........think that's the brake area........sposed to be dry on mine (6) Pete
hey gang figured i will give my imput on dozing KOMATSU STILE, working at the meadowlands running a 155 ax (same size as Cat D8) and 47 px ,just like any other machine you have to get familiar with them and show them whos TOP DOG... Also can some one explain to me how to add pics too the forum... union4life
thanks Kc5gxc at I now know its supposed to be that way. HAHAH A oh ya guys get a seat belt or stitches I was bounced into the rops and boy did it hurt.
) just read the last remarks looks like I was being a smart as_. I did not mean it like that if thats the way it taken so thank you for the info it is very helpfull. the last part was an added laugh I hope.
A friend for my Komatsu Well, my Komatsu D21A-5 has been yearning for some company. So yesterday I purchased a 2005 Iron Horse 284 with a FEL and backhoe. It has only 140 hours and runs excellant !! I now have the best of both worlds. Basically it's a JInma 28 horse. It was lightly used and kept indoors. Just like my dozer, I'll change all the fluids and check it all over before using it. Frank
Just wondering if you got you tracks fixed yet?? All I would do is cut them off down to good metal to weld to and put some straight up and down 2" straps 1/2" thick on there and weld them good and maybe cover that weld with some hard surface.
then when they come off they can go through the crusher as was the case with ours,i guess it's ok if not using dozer to push up material to be crushed -20mm just saying.:beatsme
I have a question for those who work on their own Komatsu dozer. Where do you get your parts? A Komatsu dealer? Are there any other options. I have a D20P7 and can't find anywhere to buy parts. Help
D21a-5 Serail # 52814
I got my rollers from Heavyquip. Hydraulic oil filter only from Komatsu, but engine oil filters from auto parts place. No other parts needed yet. Good Luck........Pete
What parts do you need. Dang I have a lot of normal wear items here at my place and can get anything you want for your machine. Contact me. Darin
The Same Dozer As Kbeamish Hello Kbeamish. I have the same dozer as you :drinkup. D21A-5 with a canopy, 6 way blade, 1740 hours.It runs and operates just fine. I'm having a small situation with the track adjusters. They now take grease, bur I can't back them off to release the pressure to adjust the tracks. I afraid that to much force on the greaser bolt will snap it off. So I drilled a small hole 1/8 diameter in front of it I can now grease it up and release the pressure. Now I have to weld the hole shut. I'm thinking of using JB Weld and just not greasing it too much. Do you have all the manuals? Frank
On some of these units there is a hold down bracket that may be holding your grease valve so tight. I have yet, knock on wood, broke one of these valves off but your's I guess could be the first. Did you drill a hole in the valve or the cylinder the valve screws into? Talk to you again. Darin
Track adjusters, A continuing Saga............ Hello Darinray, No, I don't have the hold down bracket. Just a 1" piece of angle iron that comes factory made to protect the grease valve. I drilled into the cylinder body about 2" forward of the grease valve. A 1/8" hole and I only drilled into the cylinder body about 3/16", maybe less, then the grease oozed out because of the spring pressure. Before I weld it or JB Weld it, I tried to plug the hole with a "V" tapered rubber plug and a hose clamp. But grease oozed out around the plug. So, I was thinking about the JB Weld. At last resort, I'll mig weld it closed. I'd rather get the valve out, but I'm too chicken to put a lot of strain on the valve nut. Frank
I see. You will have to weld it to keep tension on the tracks. Now with that hole drilled into the cylinder you should be fine with heating up the area around the valve to break it tree. No build up of pressure will happen with that drilled hole right??? Keep us posted. Darin
Frank, tap the hole you drilled and put a setscrew or a pipe plug in it, 1/16" NPT (you won't find that tap at local hardware store) or 1/8" NPT.
Hello Mikek, I'd rather tap the hole but because of the rust and the inside moving piston, there might be 1/16 to 1/8 of metal left. Do you think a bottoming out tap would work? Frank
whats it worth? 1997/96 d-21 jostick new u/c no problems 2650hrs
This place has several for sale maybe you can compare some pricing. http://www.machinerytrader.com/Listings/List.aspx?PCID=2932865&dlr=1&etid=1&guid=4068577c88a4490d9fae35a0ce4bedb7
Need a ROPS for a 1985 Koamtsu D21A-5 Hello Komatsu People. Does anyone have a ROPS for a 1985 Komatsu D21A-5 for sale or know where I can get one. I'd prefer a used one to save cash. I'm in Massachusetts. Thanks, Frank
I have a 2005 Komatsu D31PX-21 Dozer. Has been in shop 4 times for Hydrostatic Pump problems, AND final Drive problem. Has anyone out there had these problems with this make and model?
Hey Frank. I have been too cheap to fork out the $ for the manuals yet. I have added grease to tighten tracks a couple of times, but not had a need to bleed anything off. Hey, it was -40c here yesterday. Has anyone installed an oil pan block heater, or a coolant circulating heater in one of these units? Thanks Kevin
Hey Danny, I have a D-21P that has the thin batterys. I have replaced them with a thin Interstate battery. They were around 40.00 ea and work fine. Good Luck Rube
Hello everyone - I'm a newbe here but I've owned my D21A for 12 years now and it's never failed me, however, I've run out of adjustment on the right brake. While it will still lock the track moving forward, I have almost no reverse steering. The right brake lever is almost in my lap when I pull it all the way back. Years ago, I tightened the nut inside the case all the way, could i adjust the linkage to get some more steering out of it. Thanks In advance!
Hello IdleUp. Welcome aboard Sounds like you hvae a real nice machine with trouble free work. From the way you have described it I woudl say you have used up all of the brake band OR the big nut won't go farther on the thread because it is rusted up or damaged threads on the bolt. ???? Hard to say unless you open it up really. Whenever I change the steering clutches and or brake bands on these units I normally have to clean the threads off to make it adjust easier. Darin
Thanks for the quick reply - When I adjusted it last - the nut was real tight but it did move. Ok, can I buy parts ( brake bands) for my machine? I think it's a 80-85 model - it's a 2 speed auto trans. How much of a job is it to install the bands? any threads for me to look over? Thanks
Hmmm.. I would try to open it up and inspect because it may just need a cleaning. Of course that wouldn't be my luck buy anyway> I actually have ALL the parts on the shelf for steering clutches, steel disc, and brake bands for most of the smaller Komatsu dozers. Contact me anytime by private message here. Darin
Darin, Thanks - I'll get into it hopefully next week!
Yeah, these machines are bad about the brake adjuster threads getting rusty, since it's a dry clutch housing, from moisture build up inside the housing. I've had this problem on a number of these machines. Back the adjusting nut off and remove it, you should then be able to measure how much of the adjuster bolt was inside the nut. This may require several back off / screw on attempts, and plenty of spray lube. If you determine there's still room for screw inside the nut, clean all the threads, and re-install. Important!: apply never-seize liberally to threads of bolt. If this solves your adjusting problem, go ahead and take the time right now to do the same procedure on your other brake adjuster. You can do it now...or you will do it later...when you don't have time because you need to work with the machine!
I just got my first Dozer today, I have had skid steers forever, Got me a D20, I am having alittle trouble with steering on one side, is there any easy adjustment or does it sound like the clutches are sticking? Any info would be greatly appreciated, email me at [email protected] if you don't mind, I bought it to clear small brush on 30 acres
Glad to see you joined. You will find a ton of into here for sure. Anyway I wanted to let you know that you should have bought it from me for starters. It does sound like your clutches are sticking together or rusted steel plates that are in between the clutches. Either way you will probably tear it down to correct it properly. BUT try to use it some and really pull the side that is giving you the trouble becaue sometimes the clutches do clean up enough to be usable again. There is a steering clutch adjustment bolt and nut inside the top housing but you have to remove the cover to adjust it. There is also a break band adjusting nut on the backside of the housing you can tighten ONLY if you have to pull the steering level way back toward you when trying to steer. OOPS forgot to ask if when you pull the troubled side does it bog the motor down like trying to stall it? Also check to make sure there is NO oil in either steering clutch case. Keep us posted. Darin
doesn't bog the motor, I have noticed with alittle use its acting like its going to work, this dozer set for almost 2 years before I bought it, its a D20a-5 so I know its an older one but seems to be in good shape, how do I identify the age and where can I buy a service manual so that I can do my own maintenance and repairs?
The one thing you don't want to do with the D20 or D21 is let them sit for a long period of time. The clutch plates will get stuck. Sometimes they will work loose. But more often than not, you'll have to take it down and clean 'em up.
When my machine sits it locks up too - the quick cure is to pop it in gear, it usually makes a racket when it finally breaks loose but it works perfect. Been doing this for over 10 years now. I do have a question for you experts - I don't think my adjusting nut is going to give me any more adjustment - is there an adjustment for the linkage? my hand levers are almost in my lap. Thanks
does anyone have a good hood and a floorboard for sale, mines a d20a-5
Engine help I have a neighbor that has a D20A-5, same dozer as the one I just recently purchased, after using mine around the house this past week he came over and said he had one just like it, but wouldn't run, After looking at it the block has frozen and busted, does anyone know where a used replacement block can be bought, it will start and run but leaks too bad to operate due to overheating, anyone have any suggestions? We live in north Alabama so the closer the better, any help greatly appreciated [email protected]
Hello, from another noobie. I am just finding this site thanks to a Google search for the question above that Kevin is asking. My particular dozer is a 1990 D21E-6 with approximately 2800 hours on it. It runs great but it is hard to start in the cold weather and I would really like to install an engine block heater in it. Does anyone have a recommendation where to find one to purchase and what size are the freeze/casting plugs in the block? Thanks for any help you can provide. Patrick
I went to Auto Zone (discount auto supplies right?) to buy a few new batteries as well and their cheap "Economy Battery" now sells for $72 each. I bought the same batteries in 06 for around $40 no wonder the whole country is going down the tubes!
I suppose you could come up with some kind of block heater. It's been a while since I've worked on a D20 or 21, but I'm almost certain they have glow plugs. Are you using them to preheat for starting?
Yes it does have glow plugs and yes I use them but it takes alot of heat and some very small tweaks on the throttle to get it to catch and then stay running.
OK, are you sure the glow plugs are "doing their job"? 2800 hrs on these machines is usually not a "worn out engine", unless it's just been abused. I think on these machines, and I could be wrong, when you turn the keyswitch to the glow plug position; it sends current first to the glow plug indicator on the dash panel that begins to glow after about a half a minute. Then the current goes to the glow plugs to find ground. Does your glow plug indicator "glow"? If not, I have seen them "burned out", which doesn't allow current to reach glow plugs. If it does glow, current is getting to glow plugs, but they could be weak. With 2800 hrs, I would consider replacing glow plugs if they're getting current but engine still hard to start.
The indicator does glow in the "heat" position (turn key to left and hold) as well as while in the "start" position (turn to the far right). I usually hold my thumb over the glow plug indicator "screen" until it feels hot and then try to start the engine. I suppose this only takes 30 seconds so perhaps I'm just not letting them warm up enough once they find ground as you describe it. I was afraid holding the switch in the heat position any longer would harm the glow plugs and draw down the batteries unnecessarily. Thanks for the tip on the glow plugs I will look into getting a new set.
Hey, I'd give it a try. Otherwise, if you opt for a block heater you have to always have the rig in a place where there's 120v electricity available to plug in the heater wherever it's parked.
3 Point Hitch For A Komatsu D21A-5 I heard of a 3 point hitch for a Komatsu D21A-5 but can't find it. Does someone sell one or has anyone made one. The Nortrac dozers come factory with one. I need a 3 pth and would like to add one to my Komatsu. My dozer goes places my 4 wheeler won't go and I can take the backhoe off my Ironhorse tractor and use it on the dozer. Besides, there are other attachments I could use on it.
Looks like my starter finally went south - last time this happened, I had to have the windings repaired. Is there a site where I can find a rebuilt starter for my D21A? Thanks
Hello Everyone, New member and first time poster here, but have been lurking for the past three months, and have found the forums very informative. I have a tall order from a business partner in Fiji Islands. He wants me to find him a D20/BD2 sized dozer with standard tracks and 6-way blade system, which is the simple part. Next, he wants this machine to also have ROPS canopy, and a multi shank rippers (3 or 5). This is where the request gets complicated. I spoke to a number of dealers here in Australia who have the brands and models in stock. A few have told me that one movement feature of the blades will have to be disabled to route the hydraulics to operate the ripper. This would also have to be professionally fitted by some dozer mechanics outfit. I thought that rippers would be a common enough attachment, but in reality appear a rarity in this sized dozers. The application of this machine will mostly be agricultural - to break new grounds. ROPS would be a comforting addition due to the terrain where the dozer will operate. Again it is like prospecting for gems - finding second-hand ROPS equipped dozers, i.e. My search has led to the Chinese YCT-306S, which has the 6-way blade system, plus ROPS fitted as standard. Also a variety of rippers are available, from single to 5-shanks. If someone is able to shed some light on these matter, it would be most appreciated. Thanks, Anand.
Mitsy Dozers HI Nair68, The Mitsy dozers didn't come out with Factory ROPS,& mostly had a sun canopy on them.A company like Casey Cabs will make one...my last quote was about $4K. You can get them with standard or swamp track & in Direct Powershift or Gear drive.The swamp tracked,gear drive units are common,but I've had standard track,powershift dozers & loader. You can build a scarifier for these machines....& it certainly makes the dozer more versatile.They were mainly designed as a snow/mud mover...so rippers weren't commonly fitted.Early JD machines had a diverter valve fitted for ripper on their crawler Loaders. A fiat 605 or similar may fit the bill better,or a Case 450. PM me if you like Jim
Thanks, Jim. I'll search on Casey and like operators and see what I find re ROPS fitters. Also will have to see whether scarifiers will do the tasks this mate has in mind. Have an enjoyable Australia Day. Will write more later. Anand.
just bought 960 hr 2000 d20p seems like you have to pull back way to hard on the levers to get the track to respond so you can turn, both levers respond the same.
d20p 2000 model where do i find the serial number of my dozer so i can order the proper manual
If your's is a 2000 model then it should be on the left side by the seat. So when sitting in seat look down on the left and there will be a tag there. If not there is a number stamped in the left side rear chassis where the bolt hole with plugs are. Let me know and I'll run the year for you to confirm.. Darin
looking for a starter for my 80-85 D21A dozer. I believe the correct starter number is: 0-21-000-4830 it's a 9 tooth pinion & 24 volts Thanks Mike - [email protected]
D21a6 I just bought a machine and would like to know whats a good trailer to pull with weight length etc. also can you tell me where I can get some insurance?
Do you know where to find insurance? Fire and theft?
Don't know if you're a property owner but you home owners policy will cover the machine if its on your own property with no additional charge.
when im sitting in the seat of my mod 2000 d20p there is a lever just below the steering wheel on the right side about what an emergency brake would look like, when the dozer is moving i pulled it out as it to set it but it didnt seem to respond it it a brake or something else,( it a 1/4 inch rod that comes out of the firewall.
im new to the dozer business and the weather has been bad so im taking it one step at a time, the dozer runs great but has a few items id like to learn more about before spring hits. the only real issue i have is steering, you just have to pull too hard to get the track to respond. i called a komatsu dealer and they told me to push the blade against a tree first right side and then left side with the machine loaded up and then pull the levers to see if the tracke stopped pulling, i guess it makes sense to me. the weather has been so bad i have not had a chance to check it out.
You never did give me the serial number so I could tell you more about your dozer. The lever hold the brake pedal engaged so you have to push the brake pedal and then pull the lever. To dis engage you have to push the brake pedal in a bit more and push the 1/4 rod in too at the same time. DON'T leave the brakes on those because they like to freeze linkage in that position. The tree will only work if you don't just sit there and spin your tracks. You have to make sure you have traction with a load on the machine. Do you have oil in the steering cluches? Maybe your brake band can't work because it's wet with oil. If you machine isn't lugging down the motor when you pull the steering lever it's not the clutches stuck together. Talk to you again. call this guy 716-397-5963 cell. Darin
I just bought a D21A6. Seems like it is going to be a good machine. The oil is dirty so I want to change it and all the filters. I was trying to locate the Drain Oil plug but I didn't see it. I was wondering if you need to remove the skid plate or side plates to access it. Thanks for the info.
There is a access door below the engine on the skid plate. 17mm bolt to remove.
I have a service manual coming in the mail if you didn't get all your answers give me an e-mail and I'll help you out.
I have a D21A-6 and very new to the dozer business just learning. I hear a lot about the tranny, Mine has 1.2.3 forward and 1.2,3 reverse gears. Is this supposed to be a good tranny or should I be aware of any quirks?
corrected d20p-7 serial number 77250
when the dozer is moving in a straight line and you pull back on either the left or right lever trying to turn at first you think something is wrong because you get no response and then when you really put some pressure on the lever it responds just fine either lever. its border line that you have to brace your feet while pulling back to get the track to respond, and im sure if my wife was to get in the seat it would take her both hands. just a little easier would be nice.
The machine is a 1995 according to your serial number. Oh I see. Take the back guards off the machine so you can get to the steering clutch case. There will be a small cap on each case that is held in place with 2 17mm bolt heads that you have to take off. Inside you will see a 17mm nut head that you need to adjust. If it is hard to move or won't move I've actually put a 3' cheater bar on the breaker bar to get better leverage and she will break free.... OR BREAK> Spray some penetrating fluid on the fitting if you can see with a flashlight where to aim. If it is this hard I would just tighten the bolt down then back it off.. spray some more... tighten it down until you DON'T have to pull the levers wayyyy back to get the brake band to stop the machine's track. IF THE MACHINE boggs down when you pull the levers back then the clutches aren't releasing so let us know. Darin
the machine does not bog at all when you get the levers to engage do i need to order a manual for this machine or do i need to keep on getting my info the way i am? thank you
Ok.. Tighten those fitting down that I mentioned and as long as there is NO oil in the steering clutch case (dry clutches and brake bands) this will fix your problem. It is always easier and faster to get a manual then you have all teh info. Darin
My D21S-5 loader has a steering problem.The left steering lever works ok but the when I pull the right lever nothing happens ,machine still goes straight.When I pull both steering levers ,the machine still moves left.The motor does not bog down when I pull the right lever.What would cause this?
Hey Vince sorry for taking so long getting back to you on your order list but am trying to dig my parts machine out of all the snow we have right now. From your description it sounds like your brake bands aren't contacting the steering clutch drum to stop the track. If you tighten the nut like I mentioned earlier in this post you will at least start to bog the motor down or it will start to steer correctly for you. I will talk to you soon. Darin- DM Machinery LLC
Thanks Darin, your service has always been good on parts and info.Good to deal with you again.
New to this Forum and Komatsu D20P-6 Owner Hello All, Glad I found this Forum! This is my very first post.......... I just got a 1991 Komatsu D20P-6, I purchase from a dealer out of TX (cannot really recommend him, I am not happy) that told me that this unit just come from Japan and that one of the importation to US requirements is to pressure washer the tractor before it comes in what explain that it is all clean from grease and very dry ( I say...long time without maintance) I will change all fluids and filters and lube every place that supposed to be lubed before I start working with it. I don't think this machine saw maintance for some time as the engine oil is very dark, some light wires just hanging too. I will need adjust the clutch pedal, it's not coming back on it's own and the brake pedal feels like is locked all the way up.....also the steering sticks will need some adjustment I think as they are very hard...I realy need put some muscle on it right now. I have the Operation and Maintance Manual for it and for what I understood look like is engine oil for everything, even in the transmission (SAE 30) and hydraulic tank (SAE 15W-40).....Is that correct?? no hidraulic or tranny oil? Regards, Ed
Starting the Machine If you have the same ignition switch as I do. Do you just click it to the first position and does this let the glow plug heat? Then do you turn the key all the way to the crank position? I was told that you don't want to burn out the glow plug. Got any information. Thanks
On mine, I turn the key to annd the way to the left and holt until I see the glow in the glow indicator on left side of the dash, it take about 10~15 sec depending in the outside temp.....once it's glowing, I turn the key to the right and it starts. Regards, Ed
Glow Plug I am glad I asked. I have found out quite a few things already from the forum. I have only had my dozer for about two weeks or so. I had confusion understanding what model I had. On the manufacturers tag it states D21A-6 and I have a three speed transmission but what I read is that a D21 should be a 2 speed auto. The dealer told me with the Grey machines anything is possible. Thanks for the information.
Sorry the typos, I am not able to edit yet.....anyway turn all the way to the left and hold the key till you see the glow in the indicator (Heater Signal), than turn to the right and start it. It should be the same for D20 and D21's Regards, Ed
Tracks for Komatsu D20P-6 I have a D20P-6 with a broken rubber track. I have searched everywhere and I cannot find a replacement. The track size is 500x125x45. The tracks that are on there now are "Morooka" and I have been told that this grey market machine is branded "Komatsu" but it has a Morooka undercarriage. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Anyone can confirm that? thanks, Ed
Hello, Ask member "Brianls" where he got his tracks, see here:
Well after going without a starter for almost 3 weeks and coming up with nothing - I just paid almost a $1000 to Komatsu for just a damn starter for my D21A. Talk about getting it in the rear. How can this company charge a grand for a $150 starter?
Idle Up, sorry to hear that the starter was that much money. In regards to parts for these machines, is there a reliable source online or is my best bet to talk to my local Komatsu dealer? Additionally, my D21E-6 has a four post ROPS canopy. Almost every other machine I have seen online, in printed for sale ads, or in person have been two post canopys. I was told that a four post ROPS canopy is an indicator that the machine was an original U.S. sold machine (due to stricter safety requirements) and not an imported gray market machine. Can anyone confirm this? The dozer is a 1991 model year with a 3-speed powershift transmission, decelerator pedal, 6-way blade, and lever steering. Thanks for any help you can provide.
:Banghead Wow, that's ridiculous.......was beyond any rebuild?
ROPS canopy for it are sold here for around $1,200, could one just had added it after import?
Ed, Yes the oil application is as follows: Engine 15W-40, or 10W-30 (Winter use can't remember temp range though) Hydraulic Oil 15W-40 Transmission SAE 30W Transfer Case (Powershift Transmission Only I think) SAE 30W Final Drive Cases SAE 30W For what it's worth I use Shell Rotella T 15W-40 and Shell Rotella T SAE 30W because it is widely available at all of the major auto parts chain stores in my area, which makes it nice for availability when on a job if I need some. I will look in my owners manual and double check the oil specs but I know the ones listed to be ok since that is what I'm using in my D21E-6. Hope this helps. Patrick
I guess that's possible, but it does not have the mounts on top of the fuel and hydraulic tanks that would accept the two post canopy and I would be very suprised if someone went through the effort of changing the tanks just to eliminate those mounts.
thanks Patrick, I was just want to make sure that was engine oil for everything....kind odd for me to use engine oil for transmission and hidraulics.... Regards, Ed
Yeah, that bites! I think Komatsu has taken lessons from the IRS on how to take your money. My boss wanted to replace the hour meter on a D65, the kind that's inside the instument panel. My Komo parts man said, I see a part number for the hour meter but not a good description of it, it's $225.00." Well, the boss want's the original, so order it. When I recieved it, (now remember this is a $225.00 original Komatsu meter, very important detail), took it out of the Komatsu part box, it was a round surface mount Hobbs hour meter! It didn't even have Komatsu on the face, it had HOBBS! You've got to be kidding me! I sent the chunk of gold back for credit, went down to my local NAPA store, and bought the exact same Hobbs meter for about 50 bucks! I wish I could sell parts for that kind of mark up.
Broken track I have a D20A-6 that came with rubber tracks. The tracks were Bridgestones and the big "K" folks wanted $4500 each and that was in 2006 I hunted around the I'net and found replacements at $6500/pr plus shipping. The new tracks are completely different. Insead of being like flat top rubber pyramids they have a farm tractor style tread. with the Bridgestones I would spin tracks at half power. With the new tracktor style tracks at 3/4 power I start to stall. Because of the chain style and using every tooth on the drive sprockets it is MUCH smoother riding. I have one serviceable bridgestone that I would part with for $1000 plus shipping. I'm in central Georgia near Macon.
At that price for rubber tracks (not good around stones I was told) I will rather upgrade to a NICER AIR CUSHIONED SEAT!:cool2
I understand. I use my toy dozer for light clearing and yard work. Because I have to cross driveways and sidewalks the grousers or pyramids would require lots of wood or tires to not wreck their concrete work.
Operating on ice? Hello, I bought a D20 with 750 hrs on it a few weeks ago to use on the farm. We had a lot more snow than usual this year, and I have a few summer projects saved up for it, then I will probably sell it again. This is my third dozer and by far the smallest, still learning about it. I have the factory SM and IPM on Cd if someone needs something. This time of winter we now have two things that will have you wishing for a ROPS... ice and slopes. Also, when trying to push deep snow I find the light weight machine wants to go sideways when you angle the blade even more than others I have seen. You can't really even steer it much with the clutches in deep heavy snow, you just tilt the blade opposite the angle and you can do some work laying power down until you start to spin which can be soon. You have to steer with the blade elevation, lower turns you left if the blade is angled right. I know that others have welded re-bar on the grousers, with the intention that they will last through the winter then wear off. I am wondering if anyone on here might have some experience with it? I am thinking of a 1 1/2" pc on the outside of every other grouser, maybe one in the middle of the others? Has anyone ever cut the pads for snow relief? I have the std steel pads. Not sure if I have to as I do not run it that much, but I know it is hard on it without. I am wondering how the pyramid tracks do in the snow? Side traction? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, great forum you have here.
Yeah you definitely need some rubber for your use, I saw this set up....may be cheaper with bolt on rubber pads http://www.alaskaexcavators.com/images/Example-Bolt on rubber track shoes (3).jpg
I found this information: There are 2 model numbers that show transmission type. D20 = direct drive transmission. This is a standard shift, where you operate a foot clutch and shift with a lever mounted on the floor. Very similar to a standard shift truck and same benefits. Simple, long lasting and more power to the running gear. Very durable and idea for remote location use. The 3rd forward speed is very fast for overland travel. D21 = power shift transmission or hydrostatic. This allows shifting without using a clutch. You still have to shift to change direction and speed, but the lever is mounted on the side by armrest. There is still a clutch if you need it for close in work. 2 forward speeds /2 reverse. U pattern with neutral in the center forward. This provides a more open cab design than the direct drive models. Faster operation is one benefit. There are 2 letter designations after the model number that show track type A Model = Standard track width. On the factory "A" model the shoes are a 12" single grouser with 5.1 psi ground pressure. Blade width is just over 7'. On the models that we convert the shoes, we install a slightly wider 13.5" single grouser for 4.75 psi ground pressure. P Model = wide track. On the factory "P" model the shoes are 20" pyramid or swamp type shoes with 3.4 psi ground pressure. Some have grouser bar welded to the top for additional traction. These are an excellent low ground pressure pad and are self cleaning and will run in snow without plugging. They are rough riding on rocky ground, do not provide as much traction as the single grouser shoes and tend to break in hard ground applications. Blade width on the "P" model is 8'-4" and angles to 8'. We can convert the "P" models to an "A" model by changing out the track shoes to an improved 13.5" single grouser shoe or the factory spec 20" single grouser shoe. The 13.5" shoe increases the ground pressure to 4.75 psi but you have the advantage of increased traction, keep the larger blade of a "P" model and the tracks are more offset from the machine providing a wider stance and more stability. We believe this modification gives you an excellent machine/track combination and is only available from us. We have the shoe plates and bolts in stock to do whatever you prefer. APPLYING THE ABOVE: D21P - is a powershift wide track D20P - is a direct drive wide track D21A - is a powershift narrow track D20A - is a direct drive narrow track The only other model designation is the -5, -6 or -7 Models ending in -5 are pre 1985 Models ending in -6 are 1985-1992 Models ending in -7 are 1992 or newer There are also some -7 models produced after 1997 that have a single lever blade control and the 2 speed in the directional joystick The -7 models are different in that they have the latest refinements. The most significant is the option of having a single lever (or joystick) steering control. They are also quieter, have full engine side covers and turn off with the key. The -7 models are quicker and are typically the high end contractor models. All can be outfitted with a Roll Over Protection System canopy to replace the fiberglass rain canopy. We stock all steel canopies. (RO
Operating on ice? Hi, Thanks for the reply, yes that is a snip from the web page where I bought the machine. I cannot imagine one of these things with wide pads, wow, talk about low ground pressure! You could drive on marshmallows... If a person wanted to keep one of these and use it to push snow, you would have to do something for traction. This is of course the case with all tracked machines, they will just slide on hard snow or ice, especially sideways. Can be a lot of fun watching the scenery whiz by if you are sitting in one, not used to moving so fast and all. Let's see, is that seat belt still stuck under the battery cable? You can buy ice cleats that bolt to pads for many machines, I have not seen them for this one. They can be a bitch though when it comes time to load the machine on a trailer unless you have a tilt bed. Also the pads need to be cut to let the snow squeeze through or you can lose a track or break something. I am sure the pyramids clean pretty well. Just wondering if anyone uses one of this micro wonders to push snow, and what their experiences might be? Pyramids with cleats might be the best, but expensive. The prospect of swapping pads twice a year seems daunting even on the little guy. A whole new chain with pads. ouch. Then of course there is the joy of swapping tracks twice a year... Have also thought about fabricating cleats to bolt on the track pads. Have a local fab shop build some pieces, make a jig, weld em up. Probably only need one every other pad, or every third. But you would still need snow relief holes? Like most things in life, I am sure I am destined to repeat the mistakes of others before I figure it out.... start with the rebar weld method. Cheap, not too much time invested, could try it and add more if needed. By the time I get good at it, I should never have to do it again.... Thanks again!
I would like to take a look at your Bridgestone. Are you sure it is the same size. Please email me @ [email protected]
Have a 1988 BD2G that is running great. When we bought it, the steering just didn't quite feel right, so I ordered a set of manuals and adjusted it. It was better for a while, but now both sides groan quite a bit when making harder turns and pulling the right-hand side steering lever bogs the engine down a bit. Funny thing is, it bogs down for a second or two and then picks up almost like the clutch is sticking a bit but breaks loose when the brake band engages. Is that possible?
Hi , I have a D-20P-6 and have cleared snow with it on the farm for 3 years now.The pyramid tracks dig in and do a great job.I have had no problems with steering even with the blade angled all the way.Sure does push a lot of snow.By the way I could really use a copy of the parts manual for this machine.Can you email it to me? [email protected] Thanks in advance Vince
I didn't get if you had a D20 or D21 - if it's a D21, when you adjust the band barake you'll also have to adjust the valve in the rear so the drive dis-engages at the right point when you pull the brake / steering lever. On the D21 when you pull the lever it does two thing it applies the band brake and disengages the drive on that track.
It's a Mistubishi BD2G. I've got the complete shop manuals on it, just not entirely sure exactly what the clutches are doing.
Actually like you mentioned it is probably the clutches stuck together until you bog the motor down and tighten the brake band around the clutch pack that breaks them free. That works sometimes but won't eventually. A lot of times the drum gets filled with clutch material and brake material along with rust and then the clutches can't slide to release freely. The steel plates are probably rusted which makes them expand in width not allowing the steering clutch release cylinder to let them release. Run it till it doesn't work anymore. I keep drums, clutches, plates, brake bands, and bearings for the complete task on the shelf here. Darin
Darin, Can you provide me with your web site or email address? Thanks
Sure can... [email protected]
Oil Change How was changing the oil for the first time. Did you have to crawl under the machine I suppose so right? Prop the blade up? I will be attempting it soon and don't want to make any mistakes. Thanks Keito
Hi Keito and all.....Yep, you crawl under to get to the drain plug. Remove the cover plate first...17mm bolt head with one bolt, I think. You will see the drain plug. I go under machine from the rear...ain't crawling under no blade! Drain oil per manual....warm engine. The engine will hold 2 gallons of oil with a filter change. I use 30 weight diesel engine oil. I always change filter with oil. You can get filters from O'reilly's but they need to order them for you..get 'em in overnite. Wix filter # 51206. I built me a place to park machine under a little shed. Built up spaces under the tracks, so machine is up higher when I crawl under. I use a piece of plywood about 2' x 8' to lay on. I can drain oil into a 5 gal bucket....that's how high the dozer is on the pads I made. You gonna get real nasty, so don't wear your Sunday clothes....ha ha. Good Luck.......Pete/Poplarville
Trailer Question I have a D21A. Should I buy a trailer with a metal bottom or should I buy one with wood flooring. Are there pros and cons to both or will they both work? Can someone Help.
Either one will work - I like the wood since it does have more traction for loading and the machine slides around less.
Trailer Question Thanks for the reply. I have found a pretty good buy on a metal one and really never thought about one before. Maybe I can add the wood. Thanks
The metal will be fine - if you get a deal on it gohead and pop it. More important than the floor is the ramps- I ended up raising my hitch and removing my ramps - i just use a few woood blocks to run up on and once the track gets on the rear of the bed, she squats down and i drive right on. Make sure when you load the machine -someone is holding the foot brakes because the rear wheels can and will lift off the ground and the truck trailer and dozer will start rolling if there's any grade. I've seen unbelievable accidents from this!
trailer Question Thanks for the great information. I would hate for my wife to be sitting in the truck if that happened. I am going to look at the trailer. Thanks again
Don't put a steel tracked machine on a steel deck trailer. One day you'll be a little off level or it'll be a little wet and you'll slide off as you load or unload. ( Don't ask me how I know ) If you have to do it put down some conveyor belting or similar for traction. Ramp with legs on them or even jack stands under the trailer lip will help keep the trucks butt on the ground. We all do use wheel chocks on the trailer when loading/unloading right?
Tracking right Can anyone give me an idea of what's happening when I am just going in reverse and it wants to stat pulling to the right without any pulling on the sticks? Help!!!
From what you are saying I would guess that your right brake is dragging OR your left clutches are slipping. Push down on the brake pedel when traveling and bog the motor down a bit. If your clutches are slipping it will show which one by doing this. Keep us posted. Darin
Tracks Dragging Thanks for the information. I will do some testing in the next day or two. I have a D21a with a three speed transmission. Kinda think it is an unusal machine according to the dealer any way thanks for the info.
Yeah I have only had 2 of those 3 speeds out of 100 D21A's that I've had and sold. All my Mitsubishi poweshift have the 3 speeds but normally D21's are 2. Let us know how you make out. darin
Tracks Dragging well I got on my little dozer this evening and did as you said. I started backing up and pushed on the brake and the machine just stalled out. I then tried again backing up and it appears that the machine is pulling to my left. It doesn't do it every time and it seems when it does it might have a loud pitch squeaking noise. it also seems as if it only starts doing it once i warms up. What do you think. Thanks
How far back can you pull the steer levers? It almost sounds like you have the brake adjustment to tight and it's dragging. ?? Do both steering levers pull back the same? Darin
tracks Dragging It seems as though the right lever doesn't operate as good as the left. I have to really pull on the right one to get the machine to move in that direction. But sometimes when I am going in reverse with no movement of any lever the right track just stops moving and then it starts turning. Also I washed off the tracks so I could look to see if anything is obvious and it appears that my right tracks are quite a bit tighter than my left ones.
tracks Dragging I can pull both levers way back,
your right track just stops moving then your clutches are slipping. did you check to see that you have NO oil in the steering clutch case by taking the drain plug out of the bottom of the right side and or left side clutch case?
tracks Dragging No I didn't check the oil. Never did that before still just learning about this dozer. but thanks so much for the heads up. I bought all the filters and such to replace. I haven't got around to all that yet. Checked most of the fluids. But not those. Thanks
Someone, maybe darin, provided year on a dozer for someone. I would like the same info on mine. The plate on the side of the machine shows "D21A-6" with SN "63638". The plate on the blade looks like it says "DDK020-1A" with same SN. Under the side door, the decal says "D21A-P". Hour meter shows "4204-3". I know I need to go thru all the usual mantainance, and will need to at least do some adjustments. Like most of the comments, mine turns one way better than the other and I have to pull the levers way back to make a turn. Thanks a bunch to all the folks that have provided so much info to a first time dozer nut.
Sure things Danny. It's a 1988 according to my Japanese construction equipment guide book. Sounds like you need to tighten your brake bands with the large nut on the back of the machine on both the right and left side steering clutch housing. Hope this helps Darin
Just bought a D21A-8 with ROPS. Only 242 hours on it. I think i got a good deal on it ($20,000), what do you think? Supposed to be delivered this weekend. CANT WAIT!!!
I have a D20p-6 with a leaking main lift hydraulic leak. I am having problem getting the lower pin out , may have to heat it up to get it out. Any ideas of how to pull? Also does anybody have the number for the seal kit and a place to get it. I think the cap just screws off it has four indents. Its the cylinder on the side that extends to near the cab on the side. Thanks
Also, it is pretty good shape but has 6900 hours tracks look ok, do you think 8000 is fair price?
I had this problem before loading Bobcat on my trailer, I just use two adjustable metal stands under the trailer in the rear so it will not lift my Pick up...it's not only dangerous but bad for the hitch and your pick up frame, I disconnected my 4X4 link one time when my old GMC had her rear up in the air.....
I have a D-21 P-7 Joystick control I think its about a 96 model and would like to have the steer lever on the joystick to have less slack you have to move it left and right and seems it should be less slack is there a way to tighten the movement on or at the lever? Turns great just seams to have to much movement in the lever.
Komatsu D21A-6 Good Deal??? I found a 1991 D21A-6 dozer I can buy for $10,825 deliverd from 550 miles away. It looks nice and in good shape. Has about 75% u/c. they say it has about 4000 hours. Does this sound like a good deal?
Seems like a decent sounding deal to me. I bought a D21A for about that price. A nice little machine. My next one I am going to go for a little more power.
I got screwed out of it on ebay. I did a buy it now and the seller sold it to someone else the next day. So, I am still looking. Maybe buying a JD 450E Long track but it is quite a bit higher.
Looking to buy a Komatsu D21A-6 - Fair Deal? Hello. New to dozers but looking to purchase a small one to do some clearing of under 5 acres. Mainly small alder 4" to 6" inches and brush. Also gravel driveway upkeep. Thinking about a Komatsu D21A-6. Seller says it has a good undercarriage, is a 90-92 model. 2293 HRS, sn: 68013. He is asking $8500. Any hints/thoughts/advice? Thanks
I would buy it in a minute. That is a good price if it has good U/C. I just bought a JD 450E Long track forestry dozer with 3100 hours but only 700 on the engine. Has 85% U/C. Has all receipts for maintainance from when it was new. Has 24" wide tracks. Got it for $16,500 delivered from 550 miles away. I was looking at the Komatsu dozers but most sellers are too proud of them and I got screwed out of the one for $10,800 delivered.
Thanks for the info. Sounds like you got a nice deal on the JD450E. Good U/C and all the maintainance receipts sure make a person feel much safer about getting a good machine. May go look at the D21 tomorrow. Sure hope the U/C is in decent shape. Gonna search this forum for info on U/C condition and what to look for.
You'll find the D21 to be a great machine - Here's a thread on my D-21 which i have for sale.
Thanks for the info. I have found some pics here on this site and also some larger sales companies. It helps give me an idea of what looks to be in good shape. But still think need a mechanic to look it over. Thanks.
IdleUp thanks for the info. Can you PM me some info on yours such as price, year, hours, U/C condition, etc. Also, what you think it might coast to transport it to WA. Thanks
I have worked for Komatsu for 25 years. No problems with the power shiift trannies.If looked after they will last a long time. Do not use Muligrade oil in them. Additives in the oil that will debond the clutch linings from the steel plates and pile up. USe 10w engine grade in winter and # 30w oil in the summer.
#30 engine grade for the final drives and 10w engine grade for winter in cold climatesand # 30 for the summer. Basiclly all komatsu product line use #10 and #30 for all components including the engine as well
where to find steering clucth disc & brake band or lining for a d20p
I believe mine is a 85 model with 2,200 hrs. It has some wear on the UC but for a property owner or contractor the machine will last for years. I was thinking of asking $12,500 for the machine since i just put on a new starter & selenoid for $1200. Email me at: [email protected] if you need any more info. Thanks
I have all the steering clutches, liners, steel disc, etc. Contact me. Darin
as far as I know only availble from OEM. Never been able to source local.Not that expensive for the oem.
can anybody tell me were i might find replacement track pads for a Komatsu 155 s track loader?
DR when I am backing up my right track seems to start locking up and pulls me to the right. you said I should look for oil in my brake clutches correct? i have gotten a service manual and that will help me. Any other info you can give me will be appreciated. The dealer told me $850 for an inspection and adjustment. Unless parts are needed. What do you think. Thanks again
Sure is hard to try to pin point when it's not in front of me. If you don't have the time it's probably best to have someone look at it. I sure wish I was closer because I would LOVE to earn $850 for an inspection and adjustment. Keep in mind that my clutch kits are $650 delivered for both sides so you would still have $200 for whatever. You will find out what is wrong once you open it up. Let me know. Darin
The clutch on the left side is probably burnt up and will need to be replaced. You better be ready, I just put new clutches and brakes in a D20 and Komatsu is the only place to get all the parts. The total parts bill was over $5000. Good luck
OUCH! Sorry to hear you didn't find me sooner. :Banghead Well maybe you will save someone else the headache because of this post. Darin
So you can get the parts aftermarket? I did find the clutch disk but the brake drums and the inner hubs were not available. Komatsu said it was cheeper to buy assemblys than to rebuild.
Look at the outside around the sprocket and make sure you dont have a bearing down on your axle. Also how are your pins and bushings, I have seen buhings hang up on the sprocket when they are broken through. Drain your finals and look for metal.
Oh yeah... both aftermarket and I have OEM. The inner hubs are a different story and are from Komatsu though. With the work you had done I'm sure you won't have to bother with that again thank goodness. Darin
Well this is my second attempt to post today. If this shows up twice, please excuse. I have had my D21 for some time, but little use so far. I hope to work it a little harder this spring. So I followed someones advice here and cut up some boards for a not tall enough lift. But it helps. Will do oil change later, but followed owners manual for grease job. Now for some questions. Grease job went pretty well excopt for two zerks. One is on Angle-tilt frame center pin. Wouldn't take grease. Took zerk out. Grease would flow thru zerk alone. Put small screwdriver in hole. Grease was soft and clean. Put zerk back in. Took a pump or two, then no more. If this joint is full of grease is that what to expect? Second zerk is more of a problem. It is on Angle-tilt frame support pin(left-side). Grease would flow out around zerk. Took zerk out to find it had been beat up and no longer round. Checked grease in hole with same screwdriver. Apparently this zerk has been a problem for some time. If you have ever used that black Roofing cement in a caulking tube that you get at Wal-Mart and let it set up about half way, that is about the color and consistency of the grease in the hole. I was hoping someone has a recipe for some magic soup that would soften that stuff up. Also can anyone tell me what size zerk I need to replace the bad one. One last comment. Thanks to all you experienced "dirt dudes" that help us new guys out.
I also haven't had much time on mine do to the weather. As soon as it get's better I am going to change my fluids also. What kinda structure did you build to get under the machine. How high do I need to go?
I had 2 old boards that were here on the farm when I bought it. They must be 3in by 12 in. Something like that. They were long enough to cut into four pieces the length of the tracks. I stacked two on each side on a concrete slab. Worked for me. I'm not a very big person. So works for me. A fellow that has to get his pants at a big and tall store might be a little cramped. I had another question I forgot to add last night. When I took the plates off under the dozer, I found two plates. A larger one had a shaft and two u-jounts with zerks on them. My owners manual didn't show them. Explaination?
Komatsu D21A-5 3 Point Hitch I want to add a 3 point hitch to my dozer. I have the 3 pth arms from a newer John Deere tractor. I was thinking I could fabricate a bracket to mount in place of the factory drift pin hitch, mount the arms on it so as to mimic factory 3 point hitch and then mount a winch up high on the ROPS. Use the winch with a lanyard for up and down so I can use my Landscape rake on my old logging roads to get a clean sweep. What do you guys think? Any better ideas?
Need ROPS Info for D@!A-7 I would be interested in your source for a ROPS at arouond $1200. Who could I contact?
Komatsu D21A-5 3 Point Hitch Hi all, Larry here, this is my first post so I hope to get it right. I read every single post on every single page in this section for the Komatsu D20, 21 and similar. I learned allot and hope to share some of my experiences and dozer add-ons, modifications and maintenance for your entertainment and enjoyment. I saw a couple of references with links to other forums where I posted about my Komatsu D20 A-6, so I thought it might be good to join this forum to learn and contribute to the best of my ability. Hey Frank Dozer, A TPH on your dozer sure would come in handy. I would like to do the same someday. I have a TPH backhoe hooked up to one of my tractors and am considering one day connecting it to my little Komatsu D20A-6. So when you work out all the details please post some pics so we can check it out. Your idea of using a winch to raise and lower it seems like it should work. You might also consider tapping into the hydraulic system, add a control valve (with a float position) to actuate a hydraulic cylinder so as to get down pressure. With that setup your rake will work great (using the float position on the valve), as well as someday being able to fabricate a ripper, that is if you would have a need for a ripper. Tapping into the hydraulics and adding a valve is not that difficult. I did just that so I could use my dozer to pull a home made hydraulic dump trailer. It's use for hauling fill dirt up my logging road and to haul firewood on the way back down. Once I reach the level where I am allowed to post some pic's I will be happy to share them so you can check it out. Larry
When draining oil from the engine crank or from the main wet drive clutch. To get under the dozer, I drive it up on two rail road ties. Raise the blade, then align the RR ties in front of the tracks, push the RR ties up against the track shoes, then crawl up the RR ties. Doing that is safe and gives you plenty of room to get underneath for service. When my dozer is not in use, I leave it parked up on top of the RR ties to keep the tracks from freezing or sinking into the ground. It also helps reduce rusting on the tack shoes and track rollers. Larry
I've had my D20A-6 for just about two years now. when I first got it, I picked up a operation and maintenance manual from SSB tractor. I was surprised to see that a multi viscosity motor oil was specified for the main hydraulics reservoir. Engine-----------------8 liters 15W40 Clutch case---------- 6 liters 10W Transmission case 16.5 liters 30W Hydraulic reservoir 33 liters 15W40 Final drive (Steering clutches) Left & right 12 liters ea (24 total)10W However, when I changed out the hydraulic fluid, I used UTF (Universal tractor Fluid) from Sam's club. I use that fluid for the hydraulics in all my tractors with no ill effects. Does anyone really know why Komatsu would specify a multi viscosity motor oil in a hydraulic system? Seems strange to me. The D20 has a standard positive displacement gear pump, nothing special about the valve, cylinders or hoses, so I do not see why not use real hydraulic fluid ,so I did and so far so good. Larry
A few posts back I mentioned installing a hydraulic valve on my D20A-6. Here are a few pic's of that and the dump trailer: I usually post click-able thumbnail images, for some reason the normal HTML code does not work on this forum like it does on most other forums. Oh Well :beatsme Larry
Some time back (looked but couldn't find) someone posted they had changed the EOM type batteries for standard size batteries. I need to do that also. I have one bad battery and one weak. I did a little research to find EOM batteries. One local parts store was willing to do the reasearch to find them. Would have to order. When I asked what the price would be, he asked if I was setting down, had oxygen close by and if the wife was home. When he said they were $158.00 each, it didn't take long to decide not to go that route. What I need to know now is what standard american batteries have some of you folks used? I other words what will fit, and provide the cranking amps needed required.
Hello Larry, I've enjoyed your posts that you've posted on other forums as well but want to clarify something... You mentioned about 10W oil in the steering clutches?? Did you change yours over to wet type clutches? Darin
Danny I actually change the batteries to Napa 5051 and have yet after 8 years had any trouble with any of the machine starting in Winter. With 2 batteries and these little 40 hp motors they don't need huge CCA's per battery. Hope this helps. Darin
Hi Darin, Sorry My Bad... My D20A has dry steering clutches. My previous post should be corrected to read: Final drives (Left & Right) 12 liters ea (24 total)10W It's my understanding that the final drive is what houses the Ring & Pinion gears to drive the rear sprockets. Is that correct? There are drain plugs at the bottom of the rear final drive housings, and a fill plug at the 9 O'Clock on the left and one at 3 O'Clock on the right. Is there a way to convert the D20 to wet steering clutches? Man that sure would be great if it could because that would solve one of the biggest nuisances with these dozer's. (Sticking steering clutches and breaks). I try to run my dozer around for an hour at least every two weeks to keep the clutches and breaks from rusting and sticking together, plus it keeps the battery charged. This seems work well, especialy during the winter months. Larry
Oh ok. I was just wanting to make sure you didn't. Actually my shop manual states that 10W for up to 50 F and from 32 F and up it should use 30W. Shoot in some of the manuals it has 15w-40 and think tha would be the better oil actually because you would be covering the cold startups with a 15w and then 40 when warmed up. Oh well I guess it's just a preference. Actually I would think all you would have to do to covert to oil bath clutches is have the steering clutches relined with wet material and also the brake band lined with wet friction material as well. Dand sometimes I get these dozers in and the machine tried to convert itself by having a bad bevel gear seal leak or steering clutch oil leak filling the clutch cases. Of course then all the guts have to get replaced and fixed. I wouldn't be surprised to read you changing yours to wet system with all the great work you've done already on your machine. Keep us posted and AM SURE people will learn from what you have done. Darin
Hey Darin, I see your in equipment and parts sales, I suppose you have seen a few of these D20's in for service over the years? Some day I will have to replace the steering clutches, so I will be sure to get your advice when the time comes. Best I can figure to do that is remove the back plate, batteries, seat, seat plate, then remove all the linkages, and hydraulic pipes. Then remove the steering case covers to gain access. Seems like it would be tight getting in there through the top to remove the clutches. But I suppose there really is no other way. Larry
Dozer Valve..... Hi Larry, Your pictures explain a lot. Do you have any of where I tap in to the dozers lines and what valve do you use. Actually, I'd rather do the 3pth with hydraulics rather than a winch. It's stronger and uses up less space in the back. I'd probably still get a winch of about 10k to 12k in case I got stuck. Also, Could you send me close up pictures of your ROPS along with steel thicknesses and dimensions. I have a stock canopy on it now and before I venture in the woods, I'd like more protection from falling widow makers. You can Private message me if you'd like. Thanks, Frank
Frank, Thanks for asking. I will try to help answer some of your questions. First the ROPS, The uprights are 3" X 1/4" wall hollow square tubing. I have one pic for now, and will get you some more as soon as I take some close up's, re-size and upload them. Give me a couple of days to do that. Adding a valve like I did involves removing the floor plate, Seat, seat plate, rear plate between the hydraulic and fuel tanks. Then remove the soft line and hard line from the hydraulic pump all the way to the control valve. Install a Open center valve with ~ 20 GPM capacity and 3/4" in & out ports somewhere like mine Then get two new hoses made up, with Komatsu JIS 22 mm x 1.5 mm metric female 30* cone seat fittings on one end and 3/4" pipe thread on the other. One end connects to the hydraulic pump, the other to the IN of the new valve, from the OUT of the new valve to the IN of the OEM blade control valve. To get hose lengths use some old garden hose routed through the system to get the lengths just right. Larry
Dozer Valve........ Larry, Thanks for the info. I look forward to more pictures. The valve you mentioned is at Nortrac.com which is Northern Tool. They have 2 open valves. RD-2575-T4-EDX-1 and RD-2575-M4-EDA1. Do you recommend either valve? Also, the installation of the lines and valve seems easier than I expected. Frank
Frank, Those valves are motor control spool valves. Which means when the valve is in the center position, both work ports (A & B) are open (Connected to each other). If a motor control spool valve is used on cylinders, the cylinder will not lock or hold it's position when the valve returns to the center (neutral) position. I would recommend a valve from Surplus Center item 9-6701-F, it will lock the cylinder in any position you set, plus the valve has a detented float position, which will allow your home made TPH setup to float much like that of a traditional TPH on a tractor. With that valve when you lift the TPH, the cylinder will lock and stay where you put it for transporting from one location to another, plus you can get down pressure, or set the valve to the float position so the TPH will raise and lower with the contours of the land. Open center means the in and out ports are open to each other (In the center or neutral position) allowing fluid to always flow from the pump back to the tank. An open center cylinder control valve will lock the cylinder in place when the valve is in the center or neutral position (Work ports A & B are blocked, in and out are open to each other) Float position = in and out open to each other and A & B work ports are open to each other, in the float position, fluid from the pump flows through the valve back to tank, and the A & B work (Cylinder) ports are open to each other allowing a cylinder to move back and forth (with some resistance to move the fluid through the cylinder and lines) The valve below would be my choice for a home made TPH setup. In fact if I were going through all the trouble making a TPH setup for a dozer, I would have a hydraulic top link, and two hydraulic cylinders for the lift links (one for each side) also known as TNT (Top -N- Tilt). No doubt you have seen a TNT setup on a tractor. CLICK HERE Surplus Center Item # 9-6701-F Larry This is the TPH TNT setup on my tractor:
Dozer Valve Hello Larry, Just when I'm all set with what to do, You've thrown me a curve ball nad it sounds good. Well, let's do it right !!! You design the hydraulics and I'll design and fabricate the metal parts. Is there 1 valve that will do all you talked about? I have a metal fab shop so, fabrication is no sweat. This past weekend I purchased a new 6" KingKutter landscape rake and I'm ready to go.
Sorry about that Frank, my bad. OK here is the suggested valve to control 3 cylinders. It's a SV (Sectional Valve) that you "build it yourself" sort of. Actually it's custom ordered with the features you want and you put it together. The complete part # would be 9SV-3-DDD Surplus Center SV valve CLICK HERE The valve is a 3 section valve, each section is a three position double action cylinder valve spring return to center with a detented 4th position for float. Of course the price goes up dramatically, from the original one spool valve. So, you have a metal fab shop? Sweet, you should be able to knock out something like this no sweat. The ROPS you are asking about should be duck soup for you as well. I got some close up pics of my ROPS for you. Which dozer do you have? Larry Valve:
ROPS mounting system close-ups Here are the close up pic's of my ROPS mounting system FrankDozer was asking about, I think Frank wants to make his own ROPS in his metal fab shop. Is that right Frank? Here are four pics, I have two more to for the next reply as there is a 5 pic limit per post. The plates are 5/8" thick that have been plasma cut, bent and or cut and welded to match the contours at the rear of the fuel and hydraulic tanks. Holes were drilled to line up with existing plate bolts. Larry
Here are the balance of the ROPS and mounting system: Larry
Frank, That three spool valve is going to need some fittings. Get two of these for the in & out: SAE 8M x 3/4 NPTF 90* SWIVEL Then for the work ports to the cylinders- are you going to use quick connects so you can remove the TPH assembly? or are you going to hard plumb it for a more permanent installation? Obviously the fittings will be different for which way you go. I suggest using 3/8" id hose max. There really is no need to have huge ID hose going to the cylinders as they will not be cycled very often, flow rate or heat build up is not going to be an issue so you might as well save costs by using the smallest ID hose and fittings possible. The valve takes SAE 8M fittings Here is a link to the SAE 8M fittings and adapters: CLICK HERE These are the quick connects CLICK HERE Larry
I've decided to put new steering brake bands on my 1985 D21A - does anyone have a source for the parts? Thanks
I have another question about batteries. It was my understanding the OEM batteries were 750CCA each. Is that correct? Would that make the total CCA 1500? I called my local NAPA and asked about the 5051 battery. I was told the CCA on it was only 450. Can I get more info? I think I found a battery at wal-mart that would fit. It is the best battery they sell. Three year full replacement. Nine year total warrenty. $75.00 each, cheaper that NAPA 5051 at $86.49 each. CCA is 900 each. Is there any drawback to using two batteries that are this much over what is needed?
i think the amperage on 2 batteries stays the same if they are hooked in series it doubles the voltage only
Yeah call DM Machinery LLC at 716-397-5963 cell.
IdleUp, Do you have the part # ? Are you going to replace the entire break band assembly or just the linings? Darin has posted throughout this section that he has available all the break and clutch parts. I see he has done so again for your convenience. When you get your parts and start taking it apart, I sure would be interested in you posting pictures and a description of the process. I am willing the bet that many here would really like to see what it takes to do that. Please take the time to take and post a boat load of pictures. Larry
JugHead, You are 100% correct, batteries in series will produce the amperage available from the lowest rating of all the batteries in series. Voltage of each battery is added to solve for total volts. Danny B - Do not be concerned about having "too many CCA's" there is no such thing. If a billion CCA amps were available, the starter will only draw the amount of amps based on load and resistance of the starter motor windings. Sounds like you found a reasonable priced battery from wally world, what brand / model # is it? Larry
Larry The battery I think will fit is the MAXX-35N (yellow). I haven't tried to fit it in yet. Was waiting on some info from you guys. The height and length are almost the same as the OEM batteries; 8 in and 9 in. The width may be my challenge. It is 6 1/2 in, where the old battery is 5 in. I think I can make it fit. Can anyone tell me how many CCA is minimum in case this doesn't work and I have to look at other less powerful batteries?
Also, thanks to jughead for the info on the amps. I should have remembered that from my basic electronic training at Kessler AFB. But, that was a few years back.
This is my first post maybe I'll get it close to right. I'm not even sure I'm asking the right question,but they say the only dumb question is the question that's never asked.I have ap310 Komatsu track loader that Ineed a starter (24v) for. Earl1957
I'm in the hospital without nothing much else to do so I'll go ahead and post another question.I also have a p21d-6 dozer.We put new steering cluches in it not to many hours ago.It seemed to work pretty good for a while except one side was hard to stear,and by that I mean the stearing leaver was hard to pull.It would stear it just took a lot more pulling pressure to get it to act like the other side.Now comes my question hear lately when it gets in a bind one side quits pulling.We call ourself's having done a major ajustment on all the linkages,but did no good.We have'nt checked any of the pressurers but let me state right hear profectnels (see I cant even spell it) we are not.Mybe there is someone who knows something were over looking.If so please help us out and maybe we'll be able to return the favor sometime. By the way this is a wonderful site.I've read every post in this FORUM.I'VE owned equipment of one kind or the other for over 20 years so I feel for sure somewhere down the road I'll be able to help someone.I'm thanking y'all in advance for any and all help I can get.
Hi Earl, Welcome, do you happen to have a part #? if so try searching for it here: http://www.andersonequip.com/product_support/parts/ I did a google search on an ap310 track loaded and came up empty handed, is ap310 the correct model? My experience tells me a new starter will be way over priced, somewhere in the thousands of dollars Something that should normally cost 150 is marked up at least a 1000%. I highly recommend the started be removed and taken to a rebuild shop to have it repaired / re-wound. Larry
I put in the wrong model# its ap31d track loader.
Sorry Idid it again my typing sux I'll try it one more time (p31d)kamoksu track loader.I think I got it right this time.
hey all , new here , nice site like a few others im here for info , and probly steering clutches. Darrin , can you explain my serial # problem ? decals say d21 - , tag says d21a-6 - 71855 has d20 6 71855 stamped on l/s rear machine has 2 speed power shift . yes its grey mrkt from co in texas , but been good machine for 5 yrs been sitting for 2 now , need to get right thanks , keith
Hello Larry, I'm back in town again. Your pictures are fantastic !!! I'm going to get quotes on steel for the ROPS this coming week and I'll post pictures from start to finish. Thank you for the pictures!!! I almost forgot, my dozer is a 1985 Komatsu D21A-5 with a 6 way blade and only 1800 hours and I store it inside. This week I'm also going to start to design the 3 point hitch and I plan on using your recommended 3 hydraulic cylinders and 3 lever ......valve. It'll take me awhile so be patient. I specialize in curve balls, so any more you can think of, go for it. Frank
Hello Keith, The stamp on the rear is always stamped D20 so just go by the tag. Hope this helps. Darin
Earl1957, Do the steering lever pull back the same distance? If one side of your machine stops pulling then you may have the linkages not correctly adjusted....clutches are in oil from a leaking seal....how was the outer drum when you put teh clutches in? Were the groves chewed up from teh clutch teeth? Darin Just read your past post.. We need to know for sure what model you have because the D31 depending on the years are wet clutches so my statement about the oil thing will beout the window. Let us know
i hear that the water pump went out on my d-20 a few years back and komatsu wanted $550 for a new one a outfit in portland oregon rebuilt it for about $125 still spendy but a lot more reasonable keith
I think I must have y'all confussed.The d31 is the one with the starter problem,it's the p21d-6 with the clutch problems.When I bought the dozer a couple of years ago it had problems on one side.It would'nt stear at all on the one side and had been like that for a long time the man said.Maybe as long as 2 or 3 years the man said.I know this to be true becouse the side that would'nt stear was a 100&10 per cent worn out and the other was 90 per cent new.When we got down into it the big berring that pushes the clutch fork had came a part,hence being the problem.The clutch plates on the bad side were worn completly out along with the sprocket,rails,and rollers.I rebuilt the entire bad side and bought one stack of new steering clutchs.I stacked them one from the good side with one new one and so on till I had both sides.That gave me one new clutch plate and one 90 per cent new staggered for each side.I replaced the bad berring,I did'nt check the tention on the springs in between the clutchs plates and I guess I should have but did'nt.The teeth on the clutch drums looked good.I relined the bands on the break drums.On this model the clutchs are dry.But sence you mention something about a sill leaking,I don't have one I checked,but after what you said I do have a control vowel above the bad side that leaks.I'm sure it run's down on that side and is getting on that steering drum.Could that couse the problem I've been talking about?I never thought about a little oil on the clutch drum and a dry clutch at that.Would that couse that one side not to pull when in a bind?If that is the problem would break cleaner spraied on it while it runs corect it?Someone please give me some input on how to go about fixing this.I'm thanking anyone in advance for their help.
If the clutches are all oil then yes it will cause it not to pull but I was actually referring to the steering clutch release cylinder leaking or the bevel gear seal leaking. The oil from the control valve I suppose could get inside but...... If the clutches are oiled up the brake cleaner won't even be able to get to them unless you take them apart again. Check your oil levels on your machine to determine where the oil leak (if there is one) is coming from. Darin
Battery conversion I finally got around to attempting the conversion of batteries to US standard size batteries. They fit like a glove. That means the fit is almost as tight as a well fitting glove. I will attempt to post pictures. Hope this comes in handy for someone who hasn't done this already. Well, it looks like it won't let me post pictures.
can i get a little help im new to this
i am looking at buying a kumatsu dozer . the man has been honest to me . he says at first the steering is not good , but in a little bit it starts working good.
brandies equip. louisville ky or evansville ind.
kumatsu dozer please help im looking at buying a d20p and the man told me at first when u start moving the steering is not good but after a little bit it works fine . anyone have any replies or input.
what would a blade for the D-21 cost? its bent at the top between the arms. Any suggestions to get the pivot ball to take grease. yeap tried heat and new inserts still nothing.
hey richied i have a d20-p also circa 1990 or so that i got about 10 years ago the steering seems to disengage the final drive on a side before it applies a brake on that same side and it appears to be done via a dry clutch pack that looks kinda like a automatic tranny clutch pack but run in a dry enviroment i think if it sits awhile, the clutch pack kinda rusts? or seizes or some such as if i let my machine sit for 4-6 months or so then the steering is lame and appears to improve with use not saying this is the absolute fact regarding steering but it appears that way to my lame *** btw: theres a fellow on this site that seems to know about the steering system and has parts for that,darin ray ? i think as i'm a new poster myself and can't 100% remember keith
thanks were going to look at it tomorrow.this guy is just selling it for his in laws and he has one just like it and he said his does the same thing.
Hello Frank. Glad to see you made it back safely. Fabricating a ROPS and TPH for your D21 from scratch are two very ambitious projects. I'm glad you found the pics of my ROPS to be of some help. No doubt it will take some time to put everything together. Nevertheless, I look forward to seeing pics of your progress. I can't help but wonder if it should be documented in a new separate thread so as to maintain some continuity and be more seamless to follow? What do you think? I see no reason why you cant start your own thread that is focused on a ROPS build, for that matter start two threads, one for the ROPS and one for the TPH as they are two distinctly unique and important projects that many may want to follow along, be able to look-up and refer to for all time. But hey, what do I know? Larry
while that may be true it is nice to have most of the micro komatsu stuff in a thread of it's own so folks like me can find it but then that is just my opinion btw: loved reading your tph stuff that little round plate on the back of a 20-21? is that a pto access? keith
Hi Richied, Keithio is spot on about the steering and drive clutches on these D20's. My D20 does the same thing, even after sitting for only a couple weeks. Sometime the steering breaks are locked up, and I have to pop the clutch at high RPM's to break it free. Other times, the clutch disks are frozen together and it will not dis-engage, so when I pull on the lever the breaks catch but the clutch does not dis-engage, it will not steer left or right and bogs down the engine when I pull back a level. To remedy that, I rev it up, pull back hard on both levers, put it in gear and pop the clutch. After everything is broken free, and driven around steering to the left and right for several minutes it operates like a new machine. Now that you have more than 3 posts you can attach pictures uploaded from your computer. After your pic is uploaded post it right away, I think the pics disappear if you wait too long between uploading the pics and submitting your post. Pay very close attention to the condition of the rear sprockets, front idlers, track links, track rollers, track shoes, front idler, and how much room there is left to keep the tracks tensioned. Also look for hydraulic and or oil leaks. Drive it around for at least a half hour, then bury the blade into the ground while traveling in first gear, see if both tracks keep turning at the same rate. If one or both tracks stop or slow down, the steering clutch(es) are most likely shot. Is the exhaust clear after it warms up? Will it go full throttle and run smooth after it warms up? Just a few things I can think of to check. Larry
Hi Keith, Sure would be nice, I'm afraid not though, I think it's access to a shaft and bearing for transmission assembly / disassembly. Thanks for chiming in on the TPH & ROPS "to new thread, or not to new thread" So you like the idea keeping it all here? I understand that. What's the P in you 20-P stand for? Is that power shift or something? How does that work? Larry
a d20 is a manual shift a d21 is a powershift? aka automatic the a afterwards means it has 11-13.5 grouser tracks for ag use p means it has swamp tracks,aka pyramids for swamp/rice paddie daddy stuff the - 5 -6 -7 -8 tells the years it was built in a series format i have seen a few factory komatsu kitties that had pto winches so? i have to wonder about that access point on the back end sure would be nice if it was what i think it is keith btw just ordered a new set of tracks from lou in alaska seems to be a good guy will totally rebuild my uc this year rebuilt the engine last year it was a few degrees out of plumb though i put new sleeves in and the crankshft angle was about 3 degrees off plumb had to shave the pistons to keep compression correct anyway, its all good, glad to see you other guys posting, it gives me ideas on how to make this work the way i want it to need to design a brush rake for it too i'd use that a lot o clear the scotch broom
If you could get a new blade it would cost more than the dozer is worth. I suggest google searching for an equipment dealer who is parting one out. There are some listed on eBay. Or somehow repair it, if it's that bad. The blade "Pivot Ball" is called the trunnion, like yours, mine was clogged too. What I did was remove the grease fitting, took a long drill bit and by hand dug out all the packed in dirt and dried grease. After that remove the two front bolts holding on the clamp, remove the clamp, on the front of the trunnion ball find another hole, then dig out all the crud with a drill bit or angled pic or stiff wire. Spray WD-40 or something down into the grease fitting hole at the top to aid in softening up the junk. It took me a couple of hours but I got it all cleaned out, and now it accepts grease. Good luck with it. Larry
Hi Danny, Care to share what batteries you found that fit? Information such as make, model and where to get them might be helpful. Thanks! Larry
Hello All Hello, New member here with 1990 D20P-6, serial number 61255. Just got it today and have worked it for a couple of hours. All seems good with it but it doesn't seem to be throttling all the way up. What is the proper WOT setting? Thanks, Sam
Hello All oops! meant to ask for WOT rpm? Sam
Hi Sam welcome and a BIG congratulations to you on your new machine. My Shop manual states: Max no load RPM 2580 +/- 50 Min no load RPM 825 +/- 50 Max HP @ 2450 Max Torque @ 1400 Mine will only achieve WOT after it's warmed up. I suggest to check the air filter first, next make sure there is no water in the fuel tank, there is a drain for the tank, let a little out and see what you get. Next is to replace the fuel filter, after the filter is replaced, make sure to use the hand prime pump on the injector to get all the air out of the fuel lines. Short of that, may have to verify valve lash. could be burned valve, fouled or weak spring in one injector, defective or out of adjustment metering valve in fuel pump. Larry
Hi Larry, I would be pleased to post pictures of the ROPS and TPH Builds as things progressed. I'll let you know when I'm going to start. First I need to finish my present project. I'm in the middle of transforming a landscape trailer into an equipment trailer. I'm replacing the single lite duty original rear mesh ramp with duel 2x2x1/4 angle iron equipmeny ramps. They will adjust toward and away from the center line of the trailer to accomodate various width tractors. The trailer's only 7000# GVWR, so it won't take the Komatsu dozer weight. In the mean time, just to post a picture of delivery day last June 2008 of my Komatsu D21A-5.
Thanks Larry Thanks Larry, She's running smooth as silk no smoke, blips, etc. Just ran about another 1.5 hrs. I'll check it out tomorrow morning. Sam
Hi Frank, Thats a sharp looking D21 you got there, the blade and tracks appear to be in excellent condition. I think the canopy top would be well suited to integrate into your ROPS. Do you think it possible to salvage that part? What I mean is if you made heavy duty support uprights for the ROPS, then somehow use the canopy to cover it. that may be an option? I dunno just thinking out loud. In any event it's impressive looking. Below are a few pics of some ammo boxes I added to where the old canopy was attached. They come in real handy for small tools, matches, a pack of smokes or some chew, a few snacks, rags, gloves, sun glasses, etc... OK I put beer in there with some ice :drinkup I got some close matching rattle can paint at a NAPA paint store to make them look almost factory
Picture of my D20p-6 Seems to be in good shape, problem with throttle is in cable. It is only opening injector to @ 3/4 throttle position. Adjusted all the way in engine compartment, will check at console tomorrow morning.
Hello Larry, The canopy is like brand new but not quite. I really want to get the canopy off the dozer and fabricate a ROPS. For the top I plan on using 1/4" steel diamond plate ( I have plenty of 5x5 sheets ) . The reason is where I need go in the woods, which are old logging roads grown over, there are numerous branches ( Widow Makers ) in the trees probably 50 plus feet in the tops of trees. I have a Polish hard head but, not that hard. I'm also thinking of using 10 gauge, 2" opening expanded metal for doors, on the back side and on the sweeps out front. I'll be in the woods approx. 1 mile or so by myself so, I can't leave anything to chance. Besides other items, I will carry a first aid kit, a fire exstinguisher ( ? ), fluids, and a handgun for the bears at last resort.
The batteries I used I found at Wal-Mart. They are MAXX-34N. Okla price is $75.00 each with state issued farm tax exemption card. I found replacement terminals (corosion resistant marine) at O'Riellys. The battery fit is very close. A little bit of a challenge to hold the top clamp up with one hand and slide the last battery in with the other hand. Would have been easier if one of the sons was handy. Big difference is the way the little machine fires up now. With two 900CCA batteries, it cranks up faster than you can say Komatsu. Well, I tried again to post photos. It tells me I am not logged in or do not have privileges. If someone can tell what I am doing wrong, I'll try again. I also have ? re throttle. Mine was easy to move when first purchased. Now is pretty stiff. Where do I need to lube? Thanks.
D20-P Sprocket Removal ? Any of you fellows have any tips on removing the sprockets on a D20? thx keitho
best thing i have put inside in antifreeze !! i used to work for redi mix concrete outfit , with all the water sprayed on the truck rust and freezing in winter was bad . take a hose that will fit over 1 end of the cable where the 2 nuts are and fit the hose with a clamp. You may need to pull the boots up . Use an air blower (gently ) until you get A/F at the other end . I do all mine 2X year
Leo how did you do on your steering clutch task? Was it as hard as you thought? Any pointers to post. I am thinking about taking on the task myself. Thanks for any info and of course pics are always great.
D20p-5 HI all, New to forum. Alot of good information out here. Thanks My question is a -5 tractor harder to get parts for than any of the rest.If i understand correctly -5 is pre 1985 model. Looking @ a 20p-5 new rops w/sweeps new paint . Tractor seems to run and operate ok. I don't know much about u/c and what to look for.Is 12k to many$$$$s. Thanks
sweeps and some screen is next after steering is fixed. also like the 3 point hitch idea, i need a small ripper will post pics of dozer and rake when i can
I need to change the oil in my newly purchased D21-6. Can someone tell me where the oil filter is located and a part # would be a big help. Thanks, G
I got lost in this thread. The opening says All Grey market. I inherited a Mitsubishi BD2F. Anyone know what fluids it takes and where to put them? Filter numbers would be helpfull also. Thanks
The filter is located on the right side of your dozer mounted on the engine close to the dip stick. I think you may have to get a filter from the dealer but not quite sure. The drain plug is under the dozer behind the skid plate. I made it under mine with out lifting it off the ground I just ran it up on a couple of 2 x 12 and scooted under it.
Thanks keito, I check the oil every time I use it and haven't noticed a filter. It must not be shaped like an auto filter which is what I have been looking for. I will check that out more closely. Thanks again, G
You'll have to remove that side cover to expose it but it is just below your dipstick towards the drivers seat. I have a pic if you need it.
Thanks, G
Glen 2 Just changed my oil and filter. Got my filter from O'Reillys. Not very expensive. Wix brand. Don't have # handy right now. Filter is regular can shape just like on you car or truck. Screws in laying on its side. If you let the dozer set long enough, the filter drains out very well and comes off with no mess. Let us know if you have trouble finding filter. One of us will have the number. If it wasn't night time I'd run out to shed and get the number now. Good luck.
Oil filter # for Wix is 51206.
Thanks Danny, But we have a bigger problem now. We were running in some thick stuff and got a limb caught in the left track and knocked it off. We backed it out enough and by lifting the front with the blade were able to remove limb (log). We were going to just drive the track back on. Is this OK? It looked like it was putting a lot of pressure on the front yoke so we stopped. It was getting dark anyway. Can we just remove the grease fitting and release the adjusting grease, then roll the track on? We do not want to break something. This is the first problem we have had other than a broken key. anybody know where to get a new key. Dealer key didnot work, Several keymaker both here and Baton Rouge connot help. No blanks. The key has JIDECO 742 stamper on it. Google said they were out of busness. You guys are great, hope you can help me. G
Glen2 Releasing the pressure sounds like a good idea to me. One of the more experienced guys should be able to tell us more. I looked around trying to get second key cut when I got my D21. Had to get one from dealer. Apparently they are all the same. I your case, it my be easier to get new switch from dealer, and change when/if you loose orig. key. I logged back on with some ?'s of my own. I noticed the left clutch not releasing after it had set a few days while doing some maint. (like oil change). I remembered someone advising to run forward and backward using brake to break loose clutch. This worked somewhat. Well during this manuver I noticed how much I could pull the left lever back compared to the right. I read my owners manual regarding play in levers. Right on is within tollerance, about 230mm. Left runs around 290mm. Tried to adjust. Couldn't turn either side in or out. I think Darin or someone discribed what I needed to do next. Next question - To save time I probably need maintenance manual. After I got my D21, I found someone on internet that would sell maint. manual and some other manual in CD form. Is this a good idea? I think the price was in the area of $35.00
Glen2, be careful when you try to remove and/or backoff the grease fitting. Besides pressure from the cylinder, you might snap off the fitting. On my Komatsu D21A-5 the fitting is so rusted, I'm afraid to put force to it to release the pressure, in fear of snapping it off. Anyone else have an experience with this?
Way to go Glen2, Bummer to hear about the track popping off. If the check valve for the track tension mechanism is working correctly, removing the grease fitting wont release the pressure. Toward the rear of the track tension cylinder near the grease fitting there is a large nut, loosen that nut slowly and grease should start to come out a hole at the top of the back of the cylinder releasing track tension. That is you best bet to get the track lose enough to get it back on the idler. Use a large steel bar and a helper. As far as keys go, check eBay, I purchased several off eBay and they work on my D20. Here is a pic that may help to locate the grease release nut: Larry
Big sledge hammer and hit the sprocket from inside to out about 3 good times and she will vibrate right off. darin
Just sent you a email with the doc attached for the specs. Darin
Hello Larry, How are you able to add text to your pictures? Frank
Hi Frank, I use photo editing software called MGI Photosuite, it came with my Sony digital camera, most cameras come with some sort of photo software. MS Paint works too, I imagine there must be some free photo editing software packages that can be downloaded that work just as well. Larry
i have a d20p 24 volt are these negtive ground or postive ground
Larry is spot on the money here the nut is about 1 1/16 inch (actually something metric) and you only want to back it off 1 turn and no more attach a come-along between the sprocket and the front idler using them nice round holes to get it to a released position then use a steel bar to slide the track where you need it and then tighten the nut and pump grease in keitho
my d20p-6 is 24 volt negative ground keitho
thanks darinray i ended up cutting the outer sprockets off with the plasma and welded on a new set of outer sprocket rings brand new track assembly so i figured the new sprockets were a must the old tracks were so wore out that the bushings were gone totally on one side and the pins were wore in half while the front idler was about to fall off it's rail if it got tightened anymore the new tracks are grouser type instead of them swamp pads and have no salt exposure so i'm hoping they may last a little better anyway, changing that stuff out was so much fun that i may do it again next week for entertainment keitho
Have you ever snapped off the adjusting nut when backing it off? That's what I'm afraid of. If that happens then the whole track adjuster assembly has to be removed. That's a lot of work and in older dozers, most of the bolts won't come off that hold that assembly on. Keep in mind that my grease fitting is not removable or separate from the grease adjusting bolt. It's all 1 piece of cast iron. I'll take a picture of it and post it. Frank
Here's a picture of my adjusting bolt. Is it too fragile to back off? Opinions would be welcome. Frank
hey frank your setup is different then the one i have which is the same as larry posted a pic of a couple things to keep in mind are that the fitting is/has been screwed into a tube of grease it's whole life so it (should) not be too corroded on the inside point #2 is that you'll need to have that operational at some point in time so you need to find out and if it's parked next to your shop with lots of free time versus out in the boondocks with a job to be finished asap? your choice keitho
Does anyone have a good picture of the steering brake asemblely on a p21d-6 dozer
Mine looked like that however most of that is surface and if anyone removed it in the past would have coated the threads with grease. Just make sure you don't put any side load on it and you should be fine.
Frank, Great advice from Keitho and IdleUp, Looks to me like it should come out of there no problem. Is that small glob of grease covering the relief hole? If so, it's already leaking. Do you have a parts manual? Even if you don't, it may be possible to get a new fitting by calling a Komatsu dealer, getting the part # and ordering from them or from one of the parts dealers, there are several sources. A while back, I called my local Komatsu dealer in Albuquerque, NM, and opened an account. During that process, I registered my dozer model and serial #, it's a free service they offer. What they did was create an online account for me with access to a complete illustrated parts list for my machine. It was amazing to simply browse online and view every single assembly, part and part#. I saved all the images to my hard drive, printed them out and made myself a complete illustrated parts manual. Here is a small example: http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y299/GuglioLS/Dozer/Parts1.jpg http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y299/GuglioLS/Dozer/Parts2.jpg http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y299/GuglioLS/Dozer/Parts3.jpg http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y299/GuglioLS/Dozer/Parts4.jpg Those pics are just a small example, and they have been resized. The originals can be exploded for better detail, and there are part#'s for every single part, nut, bolt, washer, O-ring, seal, bearing, etc... you name, it's in there. Larry
I pulled the dozer out today and started to work on it, We put a porta power between the blade and the front of the track and commenced to pump. The yolk and piston finally started to move back in, but then we noticed the front of the spring started to compress, as the piston was not sliding into the cylander. I checked the left side...let grease out and pumped back up and the piston moved in and out independent of the spring. Any ideas on what the problem is and how to fix, also it looks like I need to drop a link, and info on how to accomplish this. thanks scott
Well thanks to everyone, I got my track back on. After we opened the valve, I could not pry or force it back on. I just held the left brake on and backed the right side very slow and easied off the brake a little at a time. when it got stright I stopped and we closed the valve and pumped some greese in. Just a little, then a little more on the clutch, then more greese. when it got stright we adjuster the track and went back to work. Then the badly needed rain came. Now maybe I can get the oil changed while waiting for the dirt to dry out. G
Trailering Help Anyone! I am going to move my machine on my triple axle trailer I just purchased. I was wondering if anyone can tell me the best way to strap it down to the trailer. Chain, Nylon Straps etc. What's the best way you guy's have found to move the machines around town? & a good place to purchase this stuff. Thanks to all.
Hi Larry, When I first purchesed my dozer, I thought the tracks were too loose. When I used the grease gun on the track adjuster grease fitting, they were clogged and would not accept grease. So, I heated them up with a torch and let them cool down. I did this several times. I then pushed in the teeny tiny ball in the end of the adjuster and a wee bit of grease came out. So I tried the grease gun again. I was so excited that tey were taking grease that I kept pumping like crazy. I then realized that my track was now way too tight. Well, having snapped off more nuts and bolts than I care to remember, I became very cautious and protective of my adjusters. I had a deep correct size socket for the adjuster, but I didn't have the gutts to muscle it open. Believe me, I put a substantial strain on it to just before where I thought it would snap. Looking at a diagram of the piston, I decided to drill a 1/8" hole thru the piston shell and see if it releived the pressure. It did and the track became QUITE SLACK. I then used a small bottle jack and expanded the track to the correct amount of track slack. I then found 2 collars the size of the piston rod and fastened them to the rod on the front wheel side of the yoke. All was good. Now, I plan to either weld the hole shut or use JB Weld to seal it. I'll try the JB first and if that doesn't hold, then I'll weld it. I still have to remove the grease track adjusters, then I'm off to make a mess of the place.
Noob here. No stranger to equipment in general but looking at buying from a member here either a D21A-7 or D20-5. Obviously the -7 is a lot newer and nicer to run but the -5 looks pretty good. All this in comparison to my 1957 JD 420C or shall I say no comparison. Just finish work and small jobs. What is the story on the Komatsu engines? Are they really Yanmars or are they Komatsu's own or depends on model. No big deal but the -7 has 3700 hours and wondered what the b-50 life is of that one? Thanks for the help and offer up anything else that might come to mind.
i have a d20p-6 now a d20a-6 as i just put grouser tracks on it vs swamp pads i have used it as a ranch type machine vs a full duty pro type deal for about 10 years but it has cleared close to 50 acres now of northwet woodland/stump farm so it has seen use and relatively heavy use at that the motor was rebuilt a year ago using komatsu parts from sleeves to pistons they were komatsu < not yanmar seems komatsu builds inhouse everything from grousers to bolts to engine assemblies if you look at komatsu parts? the circle-square-circle logo is cast into the parts as they build inhouse regarding a -5 versus a -7 model? thats a no brainer unless you're into restoring crap you cant use if i were to buy another one tomorrow? i'd get a cat if the wife was involved? i'd settle on a -7 0r -8 keitho
I need to adjust my left brake. I tried turning the adjustment with a socket ratchet. It didn't want to budge either way. How much leverage should I put on this thing? Is there anything under the seat or floor plate I need to look at before I use a bigger cheater bar? Thanks.
Hi Danny B, Nothing under the seat or floor plate that will help. Try some WD-40 or PB blaster on the threads, Not too much so as to not let the break bands get solvent on them. Let it soak in for a couple of hours. If no joy, maybe heat the bolt with a torch? Not sure how much torque those bolts will take. But I bet it could withstand at least a 100 foot pounds. Good luck Danny.... Larry
thanks Larry I guess from what you said, the threads are reachable from the back thru the access cover. If time permits, I'll take a good look inside with a light tomorrow.
Just got a D21A-7E and have a ? about the flywheel housing. What is supposed to be in there fluid wise? I am going to replace the yoke on the output shaft and the seal but there is no drain plug? I was greasing the 2 u-joints and noticed the yoke was pretty sloppy. Took the little shaft out and the yoke is worn where the seal rides and worn on the splines. There is a little pipe plug I assume to check a level but any help would be great as I do not have the books yet.
hi every body ! we are a trading company based in morocco , i have a probleme with our custmer some one want the dozer D6R other D6R xl , D6R LGP ..... could you please tell me the wath is the difference bitween D6R , D6R XL , D6R LGP, D6R SERIE III..... (family D6R) Thanks
Hey Larry Used a little PB on the adjustments and soon loosened up using a standard half inch drive breakover. I adj both sides to approx. 200mm play at the levers per the owners manual. Is that how you other folks make the adj? Would like to ask again - Has anyone ordered the manuals on CD? Are they any good? If not, where did you get printed ones? Thanks.
Great news Danny, Good to hear the PB blaster and a little elbow grease did the trick for you. It's a real benefit when members like you follow through with their posts and report their results. Sharing that information helps us learn and keeps us in the know. You asked others about their break band tension adjustment procedure..... My D20A-6 owners manual states to tighten the adjuster bolts to 4 KgM (Kilo Gram Meters) or about 29 foot pounds, then back it out 4 turns CCW. Thats where I started, however my experience has been for best adjustment is to warm up the dozer, driving it around using the breaks to turn etc to heat them up, then adjust both break bands so as to get equal pull back distance on both levers at operating temperature. Where do you buy a manual on CD? I'd be interested in a real service manual. I have an owners / operators manual and a "shop" manual. The shop manual is geared more toward wear limits and specifications than it is for actual procedures to remove and replace components. The two manuals I got are reprints from SSB tractor. http://www.ssbtractor.com/komatsu_tractor_manuals.html Larry
I made my adj cold. It has been raining here so much, there is not a dry place to test it after the adj. Re: the manual on cd, I think I found it offered from a fellow on EBay. That was several months ago. Shortly after I traded for my D21. I'll try to locate it again. If I can, I'll post info. Also, thanks on conversion of kilo's to ft lbs.
D-21 p Joystick for sale Clarksville,AR $16500 w/trailer It has had all fluids changed,All filters changed,everything works as it should. The undercarrage has 160hrs on it as do all fluid changes. The trailer is a 18' triaxle with new brakes,brakes on all three axles,good tires,electric brakeaway,bumper pull,all bearings new, and my f-250 pulls it just fine. tuff times slow work need to sell.
More steering problems I think I have read mosts of the posts regarding steering problems. I have a Komatsu D20P-7 and will be trying some of the suggestions I've seen on the forum. Lots of information! My problem is that the right steering does not work in either direction. I've tightened the right adjusment bolt (in back) all the way down and backed off about 1.5 turns. Before starting the trial and hopefully not error approach I need to know if the right steering lever should be engaging when I press the main brake? IE, when I press the brake the right steering lever comes out almost all of the way. This happens whether the machine is running or not.
More steering problems Like I say, trial and error. I just removed the adjustment nut from the right steering to check for rust in the threads. I thought maybe rust or whatever might have kept the nut from going down far enough on the adjustment bolt. I cleaned up the threads and was going to re-install. However, the bolt that the nut was attached to has dropped to a point to where the nut cannot be installed. What do I do now? I don't have a shop manual and have no idea what the guts of this thing looks like.
Oh man that is going to make you work now. It is a pain but put a good magnet on the end of the bolt that the nut goes on and pull it through the hole far enough so you can use somethign to grab and hold the bolt out while you try to start the nut. You will have to try this a couple times and you will :Banghead thinking it can't be done but that is how I do it. I actually use a piece of bent steel from clothes hanger that is sharpened flat like a screw driver to lodge in a thread. It has to be small enough so you can put the nut in the hole. Maybe someone here has a better way but that has always worked for me. Darin Oh your brakes and steering linkage are not adjusted because the brake shouldn't engage the steering lever at all. Might have to put some penetrating fluid behind the dash on the long shaft that regulates all the linkage pedals and pull levers.
You have the same problem mine had - theres a seal that is allowing oil to leak on the right brake and drum. i just had a guy put new pads, turn the drums and put new seal where the oil was leaking from.
D21a-7e whats the "e" I just got this D21 a few weeeks ago and am happy so far. Got all the books and got it serviced and will be checking all the adjustments over the holiday weekend. My question that no one seems to have the answer to is what the "E" stands for at the end of the model #. It is D21A-7E on the tag. Any thoughts are welcome. Remember Memorial Day :usa
I thought I would post a few pics of my right brake housing and linkage. I have a steering problem with my right track and the whole linkage assembly was rusted and frozen.
Darin, What type of magnet are you talking about? IE, what size, where do I buy, etc?
Does anyone have a good place to buy brake parts for a D21A. Komatsu seems to be high. thanks Keito
Any parts store and as strong as they have with the diameter less than the bolt hole. It's just a magnet on a extension stick.
Couple of things I noticed on my D20: First was I was getting condensation build up in the brake chambers which of course screwed up the brakes. Solution; pull out the bottom cork they put in the rear weldment plate on the back of the transaxel allowing the water to drain out. Unless you plan on driving in over 2 feet of water you don't need the corks anyhow. By the way there isn't supposed to be any kind of wetness in the brake drum chambers be it oily or watery. A nuther problem I had was that the brake linkage for the foot brake and parking brake were almost completely rusted solid when I got it so out came the oil can and a lot of cursing later the parking brake now works as do the rest of the controls. Best investment in time you can make is take all the floor boards off, seat and the hood and get in there and make sure evrything is moving the way it was designed to. I had a similar problem on an old massey Ferguson 1100 tractor I had where they designed the clutch pivot shaft thru the transmission casting with no lubrication points and after 30 or so years it is either worn into an oval or it may be rusted solid. I drilled a hole in the casting and threaded in a zerk to grease it. Sometimes it just makes sense to put a grease fitting in where some design engineer decided not to put one. You be the judge.
A note on tracks coming off. On my wide track D20PL-6A I have luck (if you can call it that ) raising th efront end with the blade and then unbolting the track guides just behind the idler wheel at the front of the track frames. This allows the chain to slide over onto the ridge of the idler wheel as you back it on. One word of caution. Remember that the links on the ground are staying put so you need to rotate the machine if possible in the direction which will position the idler so it will pick up the groove in the chain. This can be real tricky so go real easy. But it feels so good when the dang thing pops back in place. Also the track never comes off where it is easy to work on. Murphies law #9 Murphies law #10 Bulldozer won't move from bad spot if track is off so get ready to get dirty.
Keito, Those are excellent pictures you posted thanks for taking the time to do that. I really have wanted to know what it looked like in there and appreciate you doing that. What did you have to remove to get the the break bands? Did you have to remove the hydraulic tank as well as all the linkages and the clutch valve? It's important for me to know as one day I will have to do the same as you and need to know what needs removing. If at all possible could you take and post some more pictures, perhaps a little farther back to get an overall big picture of what was removed? Do you think the fuel tank would have to be removed to get to the left side? Darinray has often stated he has all the break parts for these dozer's, I would contact him to get my parts. Thanks again for posting those pictures and look forward to any more information you can provide. Larry
I will get some more pics this week and I am getting my parts from Dan. As the machine goes back together I will try to get as many pics as I can. The Komatsu dealer was defintely much higher. I am working with some good guy's and I will try to get as much info as I can for you
Swamped So I have had my d21a-5 for about a year now and put on about 200 hours. Mostly winter snowploughing but this spring I decided to build some road adjacent to a creek on my property. Got too close to the edge and it crumbled and I slid sideways into the creek. Bottom line is that I got stuck real good in some deep sand. Water running across the floorboards and all. Took me 2 days of packing rocks and timbers to get myself extricated.Wish I had had the foresight to take some pictures, cause I hope not to ever replicate that predicament. When I rattled back up the hill to change out all fluids I first had to remove about a truck load of muddy sand from around the rollers , under the belly pans, and even packed in under the seat. 4 hours with a pressure washer later I began the process of dumping oil. The engine oil was slighty milky, the transmission very milky, but the final drives appeared not to have seen any water at all. At any rate all those fluids are changed, but I have a few questions that I thought I would pose to the wise participants of this site. 1) Why is there a clutch pedal with a powershift? I have seen it refferred to as an inching pedal? 2) What is the purpose/name of the component of the drive train between the transmission and final drives. From underneath it has 3 drain plugs (unfortunately 2 of mine were missing and when I put my finger in the hole it is full of sand). 3) What is the back hatch for on the rear. I unbolted mine to have a look but someone has tacked it on with a welder. 4) Where do I find a hydraulic filter? 5) How do I adjust stearing clutches (how much of the gear under the seat needs to come away to do it?). 5) Does anyone else miss having a decelerator pedal? 6) How come no float option on the blade. I am afraid that I enjoy skinnin much more than wrenchin but accept the need for the latter to be able to maximize the former. Unfortunately as this post undoubtedly illustrates, need lots of practice with both. I broke down and ordered a service manual today ($$$) from the local Komatsu dealer so that I can be at least more informed, but this site has been a wealth of information and I know that there are some experienced folks out there. Appreciate any info that could be provided. Thanks Kevin
Comments are in your text below. Hope it helps. Darin
Darin, I bought a 1.5 lb magnet. This did not even phase the bolt. What was the pick up poundage on the magnet that you used?
Oh dang. I have no idea it is the biggest one I could find that would fit inside the hole. Keep in mind that the magnet I used didn't hold it with a lot of strain but just enough to pull through the hole and hold with something else while starting the nut. Hope this helps. Darin
New member has questions I am new to the forum. I have a D21A, SN62976, and am having trouble determining what type of manual I need for troubleshooting some of my problems. I have read many of the posts here and some people call them shop manuals (which is what I think I need) but then when you go to the SSB website and others, they are listed as parts manual, operators manual, service manual, etc. I probably need at least a couple of these but they are a little pricey and I only want to order what I need. So if someone can point me in the right direction it would be much appreciated. Questions: 1. Sometime the steering levers are unresponsive and my left track does not pull as well as the right track. It seems different when I am on a slope. Is this an adjustment issue or steering clutch wear? 2. I no longer have second gear in forward or reverse. How do I adjust for this? Thanks for your help...
What you need is either the service or shop manual but NOT both... They are the same but just worded differently from the suppliers. YIKES! Yeah it's basically steering clutch wear or the steering cylinder under the seat is partially disengaging the clutches by either not adjusted right or something caught in between it. Make sure it's clean under the seat area and check to see that the cylinders are all the way out of the steering valve.
Fitting snapped............ Well, after spraying the track adjusters / grease fitting for the past month with PB Blaster, I finally got the guts to try to back off the fitting. Guess what? The top half snapped off the bottom half. The bottom half remains stuck and rusted in the hole. So, I sprayed the bottom half and now begin my search for how to remove it. The dozer is now in my garage where I can work on it at my leisure. Should I use an Easy Out with heat Or What? I'll post a picture this week. QUOTE=keitho;157115]hey frank your setup is different then the one i have which is the same as larry posted a pic of a couple things to keep in mind are that the fitting is/has been screwed into a tube of grease it's whole life so it (should) not be too corroded on the inside point #2 is that you'll need to have that operational at some point in time so you need to find out and if it's parked next to your shop with lots of free time versus out in the boondocks with a job to be finished asap? your choice keitho[/QUOTE]
thanks darinray! I drained the bevel gear case and replaced oil today. Not sure what to do with the steering clutch cases. These run dry right? Maybe someone left the plugs out for a reason. Any thoughts on how to flush the sand out of there? A pressure washer wand sounds inherently wrong. Found an engine oil leak today between the filter assembly and the block. Tightened but no luck. Wil likley remove, fashion a gasket and replace over the next couple of days. Thanks again for your insight. I scoped your website. Wish I were close enough to physically browse your inventory. k
Hello all, new member here from down under! Gidday all. I don't pretend to be an expert on dozers but am willing to learn from you all. Just purchased Komatsu D21P for my property with 6 way tilt blade. Obviously I would like to be able to service and maintain it as far as possible myself. I was hoping somebody could tell me when it was built and some basic specs on the machine and more importantly, what I should look out for and do. The dealer I purchased it through knew very little unfortunately. The serial number is on the outside on the left side, just below the drivers seat. The number reads 66328. Does that give any clues? Where can I obtain owners manuals etc? Ay help would be greatly appreciated. Macka.
repair manual on the way darinray, Thanks for the info on the manuals and steering clutch problem. I haven't had time yet to get back to my dozer, but I did order an operators manual this morning; I also need to know fluids etc. and it said it gave steering clutch adjustments too. I ordered from the repairmanual.com website. They also have a service manual that will be my next purchase. They seemed pretty reasonable. Appreciate the help. Johnny Webb
PB Blaster I had never heard of PB Blaster until I saw it on this forum. Anyway, I just got back from picking up a rain check item at Tractor Supply and PB Blaster is their product of the week. So I bought a can that will hopefully do miracles on my D20P.
Im looking for someone who knows about a very old komatsu d85e-12. I believe its a '68 ****. Anyways, it has 2 fuel tanks, the main one behind the seat, and a smaller one with the only feed being the main fuel tank. What's the purpose of this smaller tank? A reserve or something? We keep having problems with the engine running out of fuel despite having at least 1/4 of a tank.
Which owners/repair manuals to purchase Komatsu D21P-6 Hi all. Just took delivery of my Komatsu D21P-6. I would like to know, which publisher makes the best owners/repair manuals etc for this dozer. There seems to be a few on the market, but I have no idea whch are the best and most comprehensive etc. Which ones should I be looking to purchase to meet these requirements? Thaks Macka
My Komatsu D21P-6 Here it is. Got delivered last week. 1800 hours, works like a charm, with the exception of splitting a hydraulic hose on the first day. Excellent on my steep terain.
Brake Job $ Here are the pics from my right brake repair. these are the old parts. I thought I would post them for info only. If you need more details e-mail me. I bought the parts from one of our fellow members. I used my machine this ast weekend on my farm and all seems well. The brake job is not cheap. If you can do it yourself you'll save plenty.I will next time. I bet I could get through the next one with all of your help. Thanks to all. Pics attached.
D20 Steering Problem I bought a 16 pound magnet and got the steering adjustment bolt back on. Thanks for the info! Regarding the quote above, do you have to disassemble the pivot rod to lubricate? Or, can you spray the PB blaster in the crack between the steering linkage and the brake pedal linkage that rotate on the rod? Thanks for your help. John
Good job. It is a pain in the butt sometimes for sure. The best way is to disassemble but sometimes you get lucky with just spraying it. Goodluck. Darin
D20 Steering Problem I removed the floor plate and the plate in front of the seat to watch the linkage work. The steering lever on the left, which works, comes out about 8 inches and engages the arm that is going into the brake system. The movement on the arm/pivot is 3/8 to 1/2 inch. The steering on the right comes out all of the way and moves the arm (into the brake housing) 2 + inches. It's almost as if the "arm" on the right is not meeting any resistance. When the foot brake is pressed the linkage on the right engages the steering lever because of the 2 + inch movement. If the arm on the right moved the same distance as the arm on the left the steering lever would never be engaged. Is it time for a professional?
It just sounds like your brake adjustment is not even close. If you tighten up the right side brake adjusting nut to where it doesn't have to pull out all the way to lock the track i think you will be fine. look and compare all the linkage lengths from theleft side to the right and make the right the same if they are different. Darin
clutch sticking on a D20A I haven't used my dozer in a few months (I know...I know) now the left track clutch is sticking...Any suggestions, can I break it free or do I have to pull the sprocket and cover? Also, I have a D45 Komatsu, great dozer so far but anyone know the pros and cons, apparently they are not too common here in the states, any advice is appreciated thanks
I tightened the adjusting nut all it would go. No change in the steering lever. Then I removed the nut again thinking that it was being blocked from going all the way down on the bolt. Using the magnet, I pulled the bolt back out and grabbed with my fingers. I pulled on the bolt and the spring assembly or whatever is inside the housing seemed to work. I replaced the nut and tightened as tight as possible to where there was no springing type slack left. Still no change. I look at all of the pipes, linkage, etc. and think maybe fixing this myself might be a bit over my head even with a repair manual (which I don't have). Again, I will mention that the pivot that does the work on the inside of the unit does not appear to be engaging anything. The steering lever will pull all of the way back even to the poing of pulling the little plunger deal out a bit from the round cylinder next to the housing. It's almost like something is broke inside the housing. This is a fairly clean dozer and I'm a bit surprised that I'm having this problem.
Well you are getting close. Actually it appears that the brake band doesn not have the finger in the other side of the bolt bracket so there is no way for the brake to tighten. you have to make sure that the fat finger closest to the adjusting nut cover is in the brake band holder. Can't remember if you mentioned YOU had this apart already once or not but the top housing has to come off to see this and fix it. It's a pain because when you mentioned that you grabbed the bolt with your fingers after pulling it through the hole this was WAYYYYYY to easy. Normally when everything is set in it's proper place you have to basically fight with starting that nut. Keep us posted. Darin
OK, so it looks like I will need a repair manual. Where can I find a repair manual? I need to make sure it is a repair manual and not just exploded photos of all the components. By the way, can the brake housing be removed without having to remove all of the "pipes"? I don't have the dozer "open" for viewing because we finally got some rain this morning.
If you look at the pics I posted #625 and the others you'll see that I went through the same issue.
I looked at the photo. I know you have to remove the seat but do you have to remove all of the hydraulic(?) lines above the brake housing to remove the cover? Also, did you get a service manual and if so, where? Did you do this yourself or did you hire it done? Thanks for your help.
d21-7 Hello everyone, I have just joined so still learning the ins and outs of the site. I have a komatsu d21-7. I originally used it as a development tool for designing gsp systems and mining blades for cat d11s. it is a great little dozer. I find it one of the few dozers that has the right power to weight ratio which makes it quick and perform well.
Well I think that if you remove the lines it would make access a whole lot easier. I didn't do the job myself but I observed how they did it. they did remove the seat and all the hydraulic lines. It is quite expensive to have someone do it and the parts aren't cheap.
Has anyone seen after market rippers for the d21’s. I built my own but unsure if komatsu make a set or some other company’s do so.
New to the forum, lots of great information and knowledgeable people. Have a question, I have a D21-5, is the fan reversable? It is currently blowing air out through the radiator. Temp is running about 210, 215.
Here is the link to the wix website. http://www.wixfilters.com/filterloo...4&TempSubMake=669&TempModel=35692&TempEngine= John
Blades , I would like to see a picture and get a discription of how you built rippers for your D21. My D20 has a dozen or so threaded holes in the back of the transmission plate, and I've been tempted to start welding. How did you rig up your hydraulic supply etc.?
Gauges not working hello all, new guy here. Read a lot of good info here. I just bought a D21A-7 seems like a nice little machine. first problem I want to tackle, it has a fuel & temp gauge, & hr. meter, & none of them work. Both the gauges go full right shrtly after starting, & hr. meter just doesn't move. is this a typical problem? any ideas where to start? thanks for any help.
Komatsu uses ground to complete the circuits....most likely u have a bad connection...ck ur grounds
thanks Mr. K I'll be looking at them in the next couple days
got my gauges working, thanks again Mr. K it was either the ground or the paint in the connectors, they had the dash off & connrctors unplugged & not masked off when machine was repainted, cleaned them up & tighten the grounds now all is good!!:drinkup
kentuckyboy It is my assumption they are supposed to push air forward. Since they are such a slow moving vehicle, you would not want the hot air blowing back on the operator. I'm guessing this would also help keep dirt and trash out of the radiator. Now a question from me. My throttle has gotten hard to move. It isn't froze up, but is much harder to move than when I got the machine. Can anyone tell me where to look first?
Yup to what Danny B says about the fan. Your throttle cable is rusting up inside and will eventually get harder and harder until you start damaging the handle mechanism and or bending or breaking the cable mounts. I change them on the dozers I sell if they are stiff. Darin
Stateline, i'm glad u got it all working.............keep the peace.......later...:usa
hi everyone from downunder i just registered and have a question or two you may be able to help me with. i have acquired an old d 50 a which is around a 1966 model 14 tonne machiine.i rebuilt the motor around 15 years ago and it was bad then,but it lasted until aroun 3 yrs ago and has sat in the paddock headless and deteriorating since. anyway iv gotten an old 6 cyl straight ford diesel to put in,i think the bellhousing will be similar,and the horsepower ,but i may have trouble remounting the main hyd pump as it is gear driven under the balancer,the clutch has a small pump for lube i think also running from the front timing gears,now the original d120 engine has a balance shaft thingy in the sump to make it run smooth so will i have to rubber mount the ford as it shall run rougher i would guess. im trying to do it on the cheap as money is low at the moment so am really just throwing ideas around at the moment. the dozer when going would be used on a hobby farm basis. i heard that this eng was originally a cummins jap copy so perhaps a cummins 4 or 6 b would be better but i dont know much about these engines. so hopefully somebody may be able to advise and it would be greatly appreciated. funny thing is that ive got an old 10 t hymac excvator out in the yard too...still going...it has the same 6 cyl ford eng as i intend to put in the d50a. not many people know much about them either,i think they were the original excv that were made in the uk
Sources for used parts I have a Komatsu D31 and am looking for a source for used parts, preferably near Dallas Texas. I currently need a replacement exhaust stack. Any suggestins appreciated
:drinkupdcara..... Frontier tractor parts dallas tx. Johnny 281-659-6620..tel him Texas Heavy Equipment sent ya.....
I have a 1993 D21P-7 that I am now beginning to have an issue with. The dozer does not want to turn left after a couple of hours use. I pulled one of the corks out of the back on the left side and gear oil came out. I suspect I need to change the seal from the drive shaft. My question is, are there any other seals I need to change and how difficult is this job? Rick
Hello Rick, There are drain plug on the bottom of the machine for you to remove instead of the corks and it take a 1/2" drive rachet to get em off. You have to make sure where the oil is coming from (which oil level is lowering tranny, or bevel gear?) After knowing this you will know which seal to fix- steering cylinder seals or bevel gear seals. Hope this helps and you get her fixed. Darin
Darin, Thanks for the info. I have checked the dip stick for the tranny and it appears to be fine, not any lower. I have noticed one thing, if I operate in low gear the problem does not happen as quickly. If I operate in high gear the problem happens quicker. I also noticed that when operating in low that the oil does not accumulate in the steering clutch area. Thanks Rick
The low gear thing make sense due to the moving parts not revolving as much so the oil isn't getting kicked around as much. ?????
itbs..... it is a good idea since you will be in there already replace steering seals and bevel gear seals.....seals are cheap compared to down time......:drinkup:usa
Thanks Mr. Komatsu
Mr. Komatsu... Thanks for the input. What kind of time am I looking at to do this? I have never worked on a dozer but was a heavy mechanic on machinery for several years. By appearance it looks to me like I will have to remove the track, left drive wheel/gear, split the casing and replace the seals. Is the bevel gear shaft hard to get out? Rick
Hi... I am hoping for a little help on locating a parts number. My boss has a Komatsu D21-A7 dozer, and the throttle cable {Fuel Control Lever} needs 2 be replaced. I would be a HUGE star in my bosses' {sp?} eyes if I could come up with the part number. I went 2 Komatsu's 'epartscentral' website & had 2 register {they have yet 2 get back 2 me} just to look at the parts lists. He needs 2 get the equipment back on the job ASAP. Any help would be greatly appreciated & I will send lotsa good karma thoughts your way.. THANK YOU!
103-43-35270 for 75001 and up in my parts book. Goodluck.. Darin
THANK YOU~THANK YOU~THANK YOU, Darin !!!!! YOU are the HUGE star in my book. This is the 1st time I have ever posted to a message board, and thanx 2 you, it was a very enjoyable experience. Too bad you're in New York....My boss would have loved 2 buy you a beer. Thank you again & may the tractor Gods smile upon you.:notworthy
santacruz......# superseeds to 104-43-44920 for cable
The number I gave is the one that are on OEM cables here in stock. That 104-43-44920 number come back as a different price so am not sure if that is accurate because I don't have one here. ????? Komatsu's website doesn't superseede my number.
Can you provide a link to the komatsu wed site of which you speak please? My starter relay/solenoid died today on the 79 Komatsu D31S16, Sn 26253. Anyone know the part number and approxiomate cost? It appears to be a separate part mounted right above the starter.
1991 D20 P-6 Clutch Help !!!! Hello All, I purchased a 1991 D20 P-6 end of last year at K-TOO, Suphur Spring TX (don't recommend this people for my worst enemy! ) that supposed to be in very good plus conditions and the clutch and the brakes pedals were just very hard and kind of stuck....all fluids were very low, one shot dead battery and the list goes on and on. Anyway, only now I have some spare time to start working on it, I did change the engine filter/oil today, added more to the hydraulic tank and tranny. I took the plates off and I am trying to figure out what is wrong with the brakes and principally the clutch. When I got it, the brake pedal would not move at all, the clutch pedal would go "almost" all the way down (very hard) but would not come back by itself, I kind of had to pull it back with my hand. Now, after a few months of only turn it on and occasional back and forward, the clutch pedal will not go all the way down (it never touched the stopper from day one) and will come back very very little when I try bring it back with my hand.....I need now to turn the engine off in order to change from forward to reverse and it's not moving really well forward or reverse either... I took the floor plate out and saw all the linkages and they look clean and appears to not to be the problem, I don't think is the case of adjustment, look like something stuck inside the clutch block?? I have not changed the oil, first time I check I saw no oil at all in the stick.....checked again later and after filling the hydraulics and it had oil.....kind strange or I am going crazy?... Anyway, anybody guess what may be wrong with the clutch?? or give me some clues in what to check?? the brakes will be another battle after I fix the clutch. Thanks for any help in davance, Ed in TN
looking at buying a d21 this is my first post, i am looking at buying a d21e , they seem to be a nice machine . i am building a new house and need to lower and slope the back yard. i tried doing so with my kubota 8950 which is 85 pto hp and has a 7ft loader and has loaded tires and weighs around 12000lbs. it didnt work to well, would the d21 be better at this ? or would i be better off with a bigger dozer or a small excavator ?
I got a new starter solenoid to replace the one that went bad on my d31. I have unscrewed the old one but the plunger on it must be connected to something because it will only come out about 1/2 inch. Does anyone know if I have to remove the whole starter ?
if this all you need with the dozer then id say unless you got the money and nothing else to spend it on go ahead but I would buy a spring tooth plow or breaker plow for the kubota and a box blade and to finish it out smoothe use a grader blade the tractor is big enough to pull some 8' impliments and would only cost you about $4000 bucks and youd have them for anything else around the yard like the driveway I have a 5acr dirt bike track and the tractor moves the dirt faster than the dozer but I am just grading and moving the dirt ponds or up hill pushing would be different deal. "JMO though"
I also had some brake trouble if you look at my previous posts it might help. I bought my parts from darin. my little dozer is up running and doing well.
Hey Thanks......look like this Board lacks of people that really known or can help about those little devils, there is much more questions than answers...I wish I knew more to help out. I got tired of it and just got my dozer in the Komatsu Dealership in Chattanooga/TN.....they are being pretty good and the service manager basically is calling me everyday for updates. Will need about $400 in parts and the labor is the killer, $90/hr.. Look like the guys that sold it to me out of TX (holedigger.net === STAY CLEAR FROM THIS PEOPLE!!! ) did some parts change prior shipping the machine to me, first and last time I buy a machine like that at distance..... Fo rthe other fela looking for the Komatsu web site...here: http://www.komatsuamerica.com/ http://www.komatsuamerica.com/?p=view&name=parts http://www.komatsuamerica.com/?p=lo...zdGF0ZT10biZwb3N0YWxjb2RlPSZwcm94aW1pdHk9MTAw http://www.wixfilters.com/filterloo...4&TempSubMake=669&TempModel=19855&TempEngine=
After trying 9 ways from Sunday to disconnect the solenoid from the starter last week on my Komatsu D31, I called the local dealer. He told me I would have to remove the starter and disassemble to disconnect the bendix fork from the solenoid. So yesterday I spent about an hour removing the starter. After setting the starter on the track I grabbed the solenoid and to my surprise (and pleasure) it just popped out. After looking at the bendix fork to see how to orient the solenoid to get it in and out I could do 1st time. So I put it all back together and I am up and running again. Sure glad I didn't just start taking that starter apart.
Bravo. Nice fix and glad it worked out for you. I got here a day too late to try and help. Shoot it looks like I missed HDPSCORP's questions too. As hard as I try to be a 3 places at one time it just doesn't seem to work. Yeah I have most of all the wear items needed for working on these little dozers so contact me anytime. Darin
There are different filters (which I want to replace) for the 2 different engines they put in the D31S-16. The 2 types of engines listed on the Komatsu site are the 4D92, and the 4D105-3. Given that this is a 30 year old machine, the engine could be either, or maybe something else. Can someone tell me where to look on the engine to see what type it is?
There should be a tag on the valve cover OR check for stamped markings on the block. Give me the serial number of the dozer and I'll check for the year. Darin
Thanks My serial number is 26253 (Komatsu D31S-16)
According to my books it's a 1977 model and should have the 4D105 motor in it. BUT look for the tags to be sure or just order the filter and if they work great.. if not send em back I guess. Take care. Darin
Does anyone know the part number of the exhaust stack, and also the breather cap assembly for a D31S-16, sn 26253?
The engine manual for this machine isn't coming up on my computer. You may have to call Komatsu dealer.
Thanks for trying
valve adjustment new guy on the block, has anyone adjusted the valves on a D20A-6 and what are the spec's for the exhaust and intake? I've adjusted plenty on cars, is this going to be the same type of adjusting method thanks joe
Komatsu D21A-5 dozer For Sale in Massachusetts. I want to list my dozer for sale and I thought I'd offer it to someone in this group first before I advertise it publicly. 1985 Komatsu D21A-5, 6 way blade,1800 or so hours, all fluids changed, runs near perfect. Needs 1 track adjuster replaced and I have it, I just don't have the skill to do it. I bot a smaller dozer that I can haul with my truck and trailer. $9,000.00. Email: [email protected] for pictures. I'm in Massachusetts and have no means to deliver it.
Picture of my dozer Here's a picture of my dozer for sale.
If there is anyone in the market and lives within driving distance of Okla. City; there is an auction this friday and saturday (28 & 29). It is near Norman. The flyer I received shows a D20A and a D20P. Also a 2000 D41P. Lots other eq. Web site is rosenfeltauctiononline.com
A while back I adjusted the extra play on my controls to what the owners manual recommends. I think it was 240mm. Now my left control acts like the clutch does not want to release. I havn't "worked" it but very little since the adjustment. It seems to start freeing up if I use it. Is this an indication of a problem or possible problem? Should I back out some of the adjustment? The right side is working OK.
First time user here! I have a D20A-6 that I purchased 18 mo. ago and has been a real work horse for me on my 200 acre farm in northern middle Tennessee. The guy I purchased it from had just replaced the chains, rollers, sprockets, fuel injection pump, steering clutches, and brakes. The little dozer has approximately 3000 hrs on it, and all I have had to do is replace the throttle cable. Just in the past 2 mos I have been experiencing weak response in the left track in turning right, and now it will only sit there when pulling on the right lever. It's not locked up, it's just slipping. Can anyone give me a little advice on how to adjust the drive clutch on the left side so it will pull again?
I'm not familiar with D20's but on most small dozers you access the steering clutch adjustment from the rear of the machine. There is normally a cover with 4 bolts or so and inside you'll find a couple small covers on the top rear of the bevel gear case. Removing the covers will expose a slack adjuster bolt. Tighten it slowly until you can feel resistance (Don't hulk out on it) then back each one off 1- 1 1/2 turns and test operate the unit's steering. Be sure that they are not too tight or it will cause damage. P.S. Make an effort to prevent yourself from regularly turning in the same direction all the time. Alot of operators are "left-handed" or "right handed" and if you are always turning the same direction you will have uneven wear on your undercarriage and steering components.
All repaired !!!!!!!!!!!! Well, I repaired the track adjuster today. Took the bull by the horns and attacked it. The new adjuster / grease adjuster is in and working great. I went for a ride and it feels great. I still need to sell it because I don't need 2 dozers. Email any interests.
Hi -- i have a D21A6 that has worked well for 2 summers -- this year the right track quit pulling - visited with a retired kamatsu mechanic and he said it was the steering clutch - it is pretty easy to change -- i have started - downloaded a shop manual - i have all of the bolts out, then it says: Lift off steering clutch assembly (8). w Steering clutch assembly: 30 kg * Remove pilot portion of clutch drum and clutch, then lift up. What is the pilot portion of the clutch dtrum and clutch? the manual does a great job of explaining everything but this. I cannot get it out and am stuck. any help?
D21s-6a wouldn't steer removed bottom plugs each case lots of water.Opened cases not clutches but blocks of rust major clean out rebuild and reinstall books don't say if and amnt of oil in steering cases .the books do show drain plugs underneath and fill plugs on sides of main frame any help/advice would be much appreciated sal
No oil Sal in the steering clutches. Hope this helps. Darin
Started the pond so we started the pond, Just wanted to put up some pics. We have an excavator coming tuesday, to do the keyway, and help dig. We are down 4 feet on the uphill side, and pushing to the other end to biuld up the dam. :usa
Bravo Scott. Your Dad looks at home on that baby. Keep up the good work guys and keep the pics a comin, Darin
If you have all the bolts out.... make sure becauase I've been known to leave 1 in and swear they were all out. You have to pry the inner drum inside the out drum so you have them both off the raised flanges that they mount to and then lift them out together. Sometimes the drums and clutch teeth don't line up and you have to cut the drum in half to get out. I've seen a few that are so rusted that it is physically impossible to move them inside the other. Let us know how you make out. Darin
Hello, Sorry but there is really no adjustment on the steering clutches to engage them more. Basically it sounds like your are wore bad and will need replacing. Unless you have trouble with linkages froze (steering valve spool pushed in) disengaging the clutches all the time you will have to tear into the machien and replace parts. Darin
Kinda sounds like your steering clutches are sticking together and until you work it some they make it difficult to turn. ????? OR You adjusted it wrong and are not allowing the full travel of the linkage to push the spool in the valve body which release the clutches. ??? Let us know. Darin
I need some help. My 21P will not start. I started it last weekend and when it first cranked it at half throttle it began to run unevenly and no matter where I placed the throttle nothing happened it just reved high then low. I started off across the field lunging and then it began to run fine and was responsive at the throttle. Then I turned the ignition off but the dozer wouldn't stop, it just sat there and idled up and down. Finally it died and I started it again and it wouldn't do anything but idle up then down no matter where I had the throttle. Now it will not start at all. Please help
Darin I think the owners manual said to adjust to 240mm of play in levers. Is that correct? The right one was very close to that when I adjusted, the left needed more adjustment. The left one will work loose with a little use. I really need to get shop/mantainance manual so I can see what is inside. Can you recommend a couple trustworthy sources? Thanks.
Hello everyone,my name is Shawn and I'm new to the site!I am part owner of a motocross track here in ohio ( www.muskingumvalleymx.com )! I bought a Komatsu D21P-6 out of New York a couple months ago to build/maintain the track!I paid 9k for the machine,and it is over all in great shape!I'm not sure of the exact year but on the tag it says D21P-6,AND #67811,CAN ANYONE MAKE SENSE OF THAT? I was building a jump the other day when all of a sudden the machine wouldn't turn to the right!I checked all the adjustments(linkages) but they all seemed correct! When I pull the right lever it just stops,like I'm hitting the brakes!My guess would have to be steering clutches(?),but I'm going into this blind,I have no literature on the machine! If anyone has any input on this problem I'd appreciate the help!I plan on trailering it 20 miles to my fathers shop in the afternoon to start tearing it down!
That was it -- had to wedge a screwdriver in it at several places to get the clutch to move inside the drup -- finally got it out! Thanks
I got the dozer trailered to our garage,and got it stripped down and the top cover off!It seemed as if the arm that engages the clutch wasn't engaging properly!I started to remove the clutch assembly,I'm kinda afraid of what I'll find!There is alos oil in the bottom of the case,I'm guessing a bad seal?Anyone have any advice/pointers?It would be nice if someone could provide some pics/instructions!
it could be a stopped up fuel filter
I'm new to the forum and have a problem I hope someone can solve. I bought an old Komatsu D-41P-3 dozer a year ago to enlarge my pond. My friends think I'm nuts as most women don't own dozers. Anyway, I've been having fun pushing dirt around making my pond bigger. Today I wanted to check the fuel level and found that I could not get the fuel cap off. It is a locking cap. I've never used the key to get it off before but when the cap would not come off, I tried using the key. But the cap just twirls around and won't come off. Anyone have any suggestions on how to get it off? I'm afraid to use my dozer without checking the fuel level as I ran out of gas this summer and it was a pain getting it going again. Any help would be appreciated. Sheila
Yeah they are a pain in the butt when not sure. Actually it is locked when the cap just spins with NO effort. Turn the key the other way until it is hard to turn and then turn it off the tank. Hope this helps and let us know. Darin
Fuel cap Thanks Darin, When my husband came home from work, he figured out that the key needed to be turned the other way. So now I can get back to dozing tomorrow
Komatsu D-21A - 6 I'm new to this....I have a question for someone. I have a D-21A - 6 which I have owned for 10 years. I have been extremely happy with it and have done my own repairs up to this point. My problem started with a shift cable and I replaced the cable which was quite pricey at the Komatsu dealer of course. My problem is the left track is totally locked up. I have checked the final drive compartment for metal with a magnet....and the oil is clean. I also have checked the ring and pinion compartment with a magnet and it is clean. The dozer moves forward but not as free as it should, but when you put it in reverse, it kills the engine. Does anyone out there have any tech expertise in this regard? Thanks! DuWat
Don't know about expertise but I am thinking it's your brake band that is stuck engage and you need to release it either externally (hopefuly) or internally. Grab the pivot point of the brake control arm by the steering valve under the seat with a large cresent wrench and release it that way. you may have to take things apart to lube them so they don't do this again but this shoudl get you closer to figuring it out. Darin
Darin....that's what I was thinking...I have stripped everything down to that point, but the weather has turned bad here, and I covered everything up. I appreciate the reply. Thanks! DuWat I'll post and let you know how things turn out.
:usaDang i've bn away...to long...duwat, hello and welcome...just as darinray said you need to release the brake on the side that is locking up....i've seen this problem a dozen times or more..if it lossens up and moves freely then you will have to go inside to repair...but look on the bright side you have run it for ten years now....not bad for a older model...let me know what you find....:usa
Oil pressure light Hello, Posted here before months ago with some brake and steering problems I had....I left it at the Komatsu dealer and got resolved (at a cost of an arm) and this section it's working great. Now I have a problem with the oil pressure light coming on basically when I depress the clutch pedal, it comes on and off it does not stay on all the time...at least for now. I changed oil/filter about 10 working hours ago, just checked and it is in the level but very black in color, when I first changed it, the original oil on it was pitch black and may be some of residue still in. I noticed that when I just start the engine, it puffs white smoke until it gets warm, than the smoke goes away....it's normal? I would imagine that if I had bad rings my engine oil would be under the level and the smoke would be at all times right? I will change the oil and filter again as well check the air filter and see what happens...any other idea?? Thanks guys! Ed
Dang it.. get one problem fixed and another shows up. Best thing to do is put a mechanical gauge on it to check the pressure. Use the oil pressure switch sending unit's hole in the block (might want to change the switch if you see any oil around it or just because it's not much money I would change it) The smoke is fine i would think due to the color of the smoke until it warms up. To check a bit better pull the fill cap on teh valve cover to check for blowby when the machine is warm. But if it was mine I woudl forget about the smoke thing due to the nature of diesels and smoke. Biggest thing for now is making sure you have oil pressure before you trash the engine. Right now a rebuild would be cheaper than if you spin a bearing and take out your crank and block. Keep us posted Darin
Hello Darin, thanks for your response, give me your e-mail address as I would like to order the sending unit if you have it. regards, Ed
[email protected] Please include your machine information so I can be sure to get the correct parts to you. Talk to you again Darin
I'm looking for a crankshaft for my Komatsu D31S-16, sn 26253. The engine model is 4D105-3, pn is 63HP2350, sn is 44393. I think the crankshaft pn is 6131-32-1101. I already know a new crankshaft is about $7500 so I am not interested in a new one. I have been told I should be able to find one for less than $1500
Hello dcara, I have a brand new one for you for $750 plus freight. Let me know if you want this. Darin
Great! My mechanic said to be sure to confirm the casting number imprinted on it if I found one. Could you confirm the casting number on it please. Do you know what shipping charges are to Richardson Tx?, or can you tell me the size and weight of the box so I can get shipping charge info? Also, do you have a rebuild kit? Price? Do you ship COD? Thanks
Thanks for the call today and am wondering if you found out the stroke? The rebuild kit std would be $1100 shipping won't be bad but need to know what all you would want. Talk to you soon I hope. Darin
I called him a couple times today but he hasn't got back to me yet
I purchased a DP31-18 recently but have upgraded to a much bigger TD15-C Dresser. I ordered manuals for the Kamatsu if anyone need info from them or I will sell them or the dozer. I need 14,500 for the machine. It is in eastern Oklahoma. I started a new thread on how to get a big nut loose if anyone has any advise. Thanks
Darin My stroke is 125mm. On the rebuild kit all I need is 1) the gasket set (head, intermediate and fan sets) 2) Front and rear seals 3) Main bearing kit with thrush washers 4) Rod bearing kit 5)Rings I do not need sleeves or pistons Dcara
Anyone know where I can purchase good used or aftermarket brake drums and other parts for my D20A Komatsu? thanks, John
You can call K-Too Equipment. They Buy and Sell a ton of D20 and D21's. They usually part out quite a few of these. The # is 903-885-5333. They are in Sulphur Springs, Tx.
I'm told I can't start threads or contact people through this site. I've already responded to the email I received and logged in. How long before I can post questions or contact folks for help? thanks, John Miller
Try kmpusa.com
Thank you for the information! John
you can also call kent baugh, 903-639-2765, he is located in hughes springs, tx
Kent is a good guy also and will work with you. I was at his place this morning.
I was wondering why I didn't hear back from you dcara. Now I know. As far as parts go I can supply you with OEM and aftermarket Darin 716-397-5963 [email protected]
Sorry Darin, but I thought I was waiting to hear from you. After you told me the crank you had was to short of a throw you said you were checking to see if you could find a rebuild kit with just the other parts I needed. I have a couple more leads but I'm still looking for a crank. Do I still owe you some info? Kent had a used crank at a good price but it failed a MagnaFlux inspection for cracks. I returned it yesterday.
Dang I thought I was waiting for a final list of parts because you said you needed more and was going to email me. Oh well no sweat. I think you already got the rebuld kit and that is the only thing I was waiting on so I don't need any more info. I've sent your request for the crank out to some manufacturers and am waiting for reply. if I dont' hear back from them it normally means they can't help. Talk to you again. Darin
new to forum Hi all, I have a d21s 30180 front loader with normal grouser pads. I'm wonder what year is my machine? Are most wear parts available? My track chains and sprockets a well worn! I just bought mine and I really like it. I'm doing a bit of clean up on the machine. The seat was all shredded and it was missing a few bits. I'm also making my ROPS. Runs strong and digs well. I need to clean up my pond area and clear brush.
Looks like you have a 1973 model. Yes I have those chains and sprockets for you and contact me for other wear parts then I can tell you if they are available or not. I have most of the wear items here. Darin
Sprockets? I'm wondering if I can weld the new sprockets on myself? Is it cast Iron or cast steel? Anyone weld their own? David
Dewey- short answer is yes you can - cast steel -used to be a common practice but bolt ons became common place so there was no more real demand
I see they sell the weld on type on ebay. Is it best to split them in half and then weld them on? Would it be best to preheat them a bit with a torch prior to welding? I wonder which is the best way to cut the old gears off? Maybe with a hand grinder with a cutoff wheel? Thanks! David
Yeah i hvae both weld on ones one ebay and 1 piece bolt on sprockets on ebay. All you have to do is cut with torch or better yet plasma cutter and then prep...how much depends on your cut and then weld. Leave them together and don't split them it will just make it harder to do. My guy doesn't heat it up but I'm sure it wouldn't hurt. Darin
good welding practice is to heat anything thicker than 1/4 " to get rid of moisture which could cause under-bead cracking or pin holing does not need to be super hot- but you will see water come to surface then evaporate as the temp goes up
Hello All I am loving this forum. I have a D20a-6 I have broken my water pump and fan blade. Does anyone know where and for how much this will set me back to replace? Do they make a rebuild kit even if the shaft is broken? Thankfully it didn't harm the radiator. Look forward to reply. GREYMONAUTS UNIT!!!!!
komowhoa Hello All I have a gray market D20 that runs fine but will not disengage the left track when moving. When the left handle is pulled ( doesnt seem to go through clutch engagement & track release ) track just keeps pulling till the brakes are applied & eventually stalls engine. ANY IDEAS ???
Not sure if you fixed yours yet or not but I have teh fan blade for your unit $95 and the water pump you can get rebuilt from Komatsu and if interested I can get you a price Monday on a reman one. I think it's around $350 but not for sure. Darin
Yeah it sounds like your clutches are frozen together and won't release.... OR you have no oil to your left cylinder for some reason that releases the clutches. I have the steering clutches and steel disc and that is what it probably will end up being when only one side doesn't work. Let me know. Darin
Hi Dewy-David, I have a D21A-5 and also want to fabricate and install a ROPS. Have you done any preliminary type of design. I have a design in my head based on other D21s with ROPS. Let's put our thoughts on paper and arrive at a good design. After all, our lives might be at stake. Frank
My D21A-5 Here's my D21A-5
FrankDozer, It would be handy if someone with the measurements could make a picture in WORD of the bolt pattern of the 2 mounting points either side of the console and also at the rear. It would also be handy to have the bolt pattern on the rear of the transmission case where a ripper or other tool could be mounted was known. I have used the paper and pencil method of transfer forever but it would save time if someone has the templates already drawn. John
Frank, I have started to construct mine. I bought 3" 1/4" wall tube at a local salvage steel yard for the frame and 3/8 plate to make mounts. I used 3/8 angle 4x4 to make my mounts for the front. I used 3/4 bolts for the mount location at the 4 points. I got most of my ideas from the Alaska excavator .com web site. I will use the 1-3/4" sockets at the back of mine where the original shade was mounted. I will weld to solid stock and brace it well. I need to decide the finish height. I will plate the top with heavy gauge steel - maybe even dimond plate. Mine didn't have any sun shade left when I bought mine. I have a bucket and not a blade so I need to keep a good view of the full range of motion. I also got some cheap lights that I will mount using h3 24 volt bulbs. I'm also making the guards on the one side that were missing from mine. I will need to make a floor around the pedals since mine was missing. I will put some sort of screen on the back and maybe some of the sides. I will make removable sweeps too but I first need to get my ROPS done. Mine will probably weight close to 500 pounds when it is all said and done. David
A couple of small points which may or may not help. The 3" 1/4" wall tube, needs to be SHS or square hollow section - the sizing is right for up to 15 ton OPS (75mm x 75mm x 6mm) over that you need to move to 4" x 1/4 (100mm x 100mm x 6mm). I'm not quite sure what you mean by heavy gauge steel but it needs to be a minimum of 6mm or 1/4 inch. If your focus is to build a ROPS not FOPS make sure your design includes good corner webbing / bracing, you spread the mounting points out well or even add two - ultimately if the OPS doesn't fold, it will transfer all load to these points. The protective structure is only as good as what it's mounted to. Use common sense when designing, i.e. the roof "H" section(s) just sits on top of the vertical posts - things like that. Make your model builds outta paddle pop sticks, cheap at craft shops. Lastly stitch weld where you can, the less heat you put in to that thing during construction the stronger it will be. You will have to perimeter weld a lot of it, sure - but sometimes in life, more is not better.
Roll over story with sad ending http://www.fire.ca.gov/fire_protect...oradoFire_ExecutiveReportSummary_Complete.pdf A guy was killed rolling a Caterpillar D6N-XL while working a wildfire down a 160 foot side hill. Interesting read about the need to have adequate safety belts and a good hard hat even with a factory designed ROPS. The conclusions bear consideration as well. Especially working on unconsolidated fill on the edge of an 85 percent slope (40.35 degree). No matter how good your cage is, if the human body isn’t secured properly in it for the ride, it’s like scrambling an egg in the shell. I’m guilty as charged for not wearing a seat belt working a side hill. Heck I wear earmuffs now that I’m going deaf. Maybe I’ll start wearing my seat belt someday too. John
Thank you but I found a used fan blade and I got the water pump rebuilt. Now I m have a problem with overheating. This is a new problem. What I have done so far to fix is a new thermostat, cleaned the outside of radiator a9 (front and back) I did notice that the back plate on the new rebuilt pump is leaking "which is my fault" so i will have to take the darn pump back off to tighten the screws on that plate but other then that I don't know what else to do other then taking the raditator off and getting it dipped. Does anyone have any suggestions? I had a few hydralic lines bust lately so I figured that I got some fluid pulled up in the radiator it was dirty but not the worst Ive seen. Its clean now anyhow. When I say overheating I mean that it has gone all the way up to the line before it is in the red. It will hang right in that area but I don't allow it to get any higher I just shut it down. I should also mention that it takes about an hour to hour and 30 minutes to reach that area on the gauge it does seem to hold there however. I just don't like this, something aint right!!!!!!! Please HELP!!!!
Sorry about this but i need to add that the work I am doing is pretty hard pushing but it is the same kind of pushing I always do so that is a constant.
What oil or grease should I put in the rollers???? The owners manual doesn't say. I made up a fitting with a zerk nipple that will screw in where the inspection plugs thread in. One of my idler roller looks dry. Where can I get the glow plug indicator? Mine is shot! Does anyone know if a 12 volt ammeter will work in the 24 volt system? It seems to me that the meter won't care what voltage is there???
80/90w, basically diff oil, if you are stuck in tractor land 90/140w will do. If you've got wear already, use black grease - lithium based grease. Yep, amps is amps, the meter is wired in series and has no concept of voltage. The only issue would be is if it had a inbuilt gauge light, which would blow with the wrong voltage.
d20p komatsu dozer should i buy a manual or just keep asking questions on the forum?
It's nice to have manuals and I do have those for sale . BUT this forum is a great place to ask all questions so others when doing searches will find the answers to the same questions. So basically i say ask away. Darin
Plug indicator? Darin, Do you have access to a glow plug indicator for a d21s-3? Do you have any ideas where I can get one? Thanks! David
It looks like its $40.54 (if it's still available) plus freight. I have some here that may not be exactly like yours but will work because all you have to do is hook the 2 wires on it and bolt it on your dash for $35 plus freight. Darin
I have a Komatsu Dozer Question...It is not one of the gray market models but hope somebody can help. Looking at a D65E-6 to buy. The owner was using it and it developed a leak under the belly pan. At the same time, it quit steering. Is this a simple fix or a major problem? He had manuals until a house fire burned them up so he has no literature to help. I can't find any on line and was wondering if anybody might have a few diagrams that may help me decide if it is worth buying. The engine runs great, starts easily, transmission works in all positions, just won't steer.
you might want to check all of the rubber gap seals around the front of the radiator, if they are bad you loose air from the fan around them also be sure your fan belt is not slipping, I had the same problem, this helped mine.
Sounds good, Mine has one hole that goes through the dash. I can make anything work. Can you PM me your contact info and we will work out the details! Thanks! David
Does it leak at idle or only when you move a steering lever. Hang on, I should have started with, does it still have any hyd oil left in it? LoL
Sure thing. My contact info is www.dmmsales.com Darin [email protected] 716-397-5963 cell
Digger.. Thanks for reponding. It leaks constantly...Oil level does drop..added some but it would not steer. leak is pretty strong. I am assuming you are talking about the level on the dipstick on the floor in front of the operator seat.
You should be able to see a wash mark (clean spot washed by oil leak) somewhere if the leak is bad enough then. I would be sus to a hydraulic line rubbed through - be it steel or flex. If it leaks quick it's on the pressure side and slower on the return - nothing you don't know already, but it allows you to trace it from the pump. I kinda only mentioned it, cuz you said you were thinking of buying it. Make sure it hasn't been run whilst dry. You could get all sorts of problems in the future if it has. A leak, even a bad one isn't so bad as long as it's well fed. It could be a bargain - just a broken line mount which has caused the line to rub through or it could be big $$$. Think with your head not your heart, as another one ( a better one?) will always be around the corner.
Digger... Thanks.... The price of the Dozer was so good, that I went ahead and bought it.... It is from a farm estate sale and the owners wanted to sell it bad so $5000 got it. I figure the engine and scrap are worth that much and if I can fix it chepaly, all the better. It is a 1977 model.... Already have had an offer for more than I paid for it as it sits, so I figure I did not make a mistake... Hauling is not a problem since my cousin one farm away has a low boy that he hauls his excavator with. Just had to situate the trailer square so it loaded and since I already remove the blade and trunions, and hauled them separately, width was not an issue either. Just need to find a little extra time to work on it now.....
Wow, that's a bargain IMHO. Let us know how you get on with it. :thumbsup:
Talked to a guy today that used to work for a heavy equipment salvage yard and he sid there is a rubber hose approx 2 inches in dia that is probably worn through that pickes up oil from the trans case and feeds the steering pump If that is the problem, it should show itself as soon as I remove the belly pan. The price made it hard to pass up especially when a good running Cummins NH220 take out goes around $3000...that would leave a lot of scrap f nothing else that easily covers the other $2 I am told the blade(tilt) will also fit a D-6
d20 dozzer fluids anyone no what fluid you use in the d20 transmision
According to my manuals you need 10W engine oil for your tranny. Darin
just wanted to let everyone here know my dozer is for sale in the classified section, nothing wrong with it, I'm just done with my project.
I've put 200-300 hrs on a manual trans, and have wondered how long I've spent by the end of the day waiting on it to fall into gear.
Does anyone know where I can get bucket teeth for my komatsu d21s 3 ? Mine bolt on from the top. Mine are worn a lot along with the edge of my bucket. I might try and rebuild the edge or even replace it? I see I can buy a new edge from one source. Any ideas? Thanks! David
Komatsu d20p-6 hydrolic steering pressure problem I have an 86 komatsu d20p-6. I have replaced the clutches, brake drums, seals, bearings & brake bands. But I am still having problems. I don't have any literature or schematics on the dozer. What I do have has been from the kindness of Darin. I need to know what the part is called under the seat that the hydrolic hoses go into. (Where the 4 plugs are to check the hydrolic pressure) And does anyone have a schematic for it? I would also like a schematic for the pump itself. The dozer runs and turns great cold, but once it gets warmed up it wont turn. On the valves for the turning clutches, when you take plugs out to check, there isnt any pressure. Thanks for help [email protected]
Holy crap John I thought you had this fixed because I didn't hear back from you. What fluid are you running in your main clutch case? Did you clean the strainer and change the oil with 10W engine oil? OR maybe we shoudl try a heavier oil since it stops working when it's warmed up. ????? Darin
We cleaned the strainer and it is filled with 10W oil (Happy Thanksgiving Darin)
Yes Happy Thanksgiving to you guys as well. I thought you did but wasn't sure totally. So if it works when it's cold that means that the passages to and from are fine and the valves and everything seem to be working. Boy it sounds like the pump is bad. I dont have a used one here either but am sure i can find one if you want. I am hoping someone else will have some ideas too. Darin
How does the pump work, does it have O rings or disc or what, does it rotate with the motor on the back of the clutch housing? or does it have a plunger that goes up and down? Where is the pump exactly, and how hard is it to change? Oh and how much is the pump? I need to see a schematic of it to get it in my head. John
It's a gear pump mounted on the clutch housing. Here is a pic where my used one was. They are pricey little things at over $1,000 from Komatsu. I think you spoke with some other dealers about parts before so kinldy check with them. If you can't locate one let me know. Darin
Wow, I can tell by looking at the mounting that's a special pump. Komatsu is known for making "Komatsu only" pumps. :Banghead
Newbie Hey all I dont own a gray market dozer but I do own 2 gray market farm tractors. I dont know if this help or been mentioned before but alot of the parts between gray and legal machines are the same but you need to match engine serail numbers. Also I found out that these manulas that are being sold are not protect ny US copyright so once you have one you can copy and give it away or make copies to sell. i found this out when i paid too much money for crappy photocopies. I have gotten parts for my machines by finding the part numbe online and then going to the dealer. If i go in there and say its for a Mits tractor they wont sell me the parts:Banghead
that's pretty much what I found out when I had my Gray market Kobelco excavator, most all of the mechanical parts were the same as U.S. spec. machines. I accuired a parts manual, & just took them the part #'s, no problem getting parts that way.
Hi guys and ladies; I'm new here and hope this question is in the right place. I have a D20P-7A that I have just finished pressure washing and now it does not start. It turns over fine but makes no effort to start. It has always been extremely easy to start. I do not find any wires off and do not see anything obvious except a fuel leak in a bleeder line that I am about to replace. Any ideas?
Hello, I have a D20P 6A and it can be a bitch to start if I don't use the heater for at least 15~20 seconds (it starts right up if after that)....does your 7A have the heater signal that you actually can see the coil go red orange? Also, I am not a mechanic, but I know well that a leak in the line for diesel engines will prevent it to start as is not pressure there.... Ed
When you turn the key on do you hear a small motor run for a little bit? If you have the sides off see if the fuel stop actually moves back and forth when operating the key. Keep us posted. Darin
Thanks, I am not sure where the fuel stop is located but that sure would seem to be a good possibility (the sides are off). I'll look for that tomorrow morning.
on the back end of the injector pump toward the seat. You will be able to tell as soon as you turn the key on and off. Darin
Thanks, I do not think it is moving by the fact that my partner did not see anything move when we were 'cranking' the engine. Is there an electrical relay or fuse that engages this?
It will only move when you first turn the key on or turn it off. There is a relay that could be bad that is located under the throttle lever tower (the handle that you move for rpms) that you can check. Sometimes there is a electrical post that rust off and or the relay just burns out. Darin
I replaced that relay since that was the only area that I cleaned after I restarted the engine after washing it. I noticed a bit of smoke from it when trying to start it so I assumed that I had 'fried' it. Nothing different after replacement.
hmmm. You can try to run a power wire to the motor shutoff directly to see if it's good. BUT to get it going just unhook the cable by the injector pump to get you going. You will need to manually shut it down after that. Let us know what you find. Darin
Thanks guys, the problem was just beneath the relay at the throttle tower; a broken wire. I was able to get it started temporarily by manually moving the shutoff valve. With this confirmed, it was a matter of finding the culprit. My hard-headed belief that it had to be in the relay area led to checking the wires themselves closely and finding one broken.
Greasing the main ball I have an '86 model D20-P and I can't get any grease in the main ball of the blade. I've replace the fitting and dug around inside where it goes and I've loosened the bolts as far as I dare and still can't get it to take any grease. Any suggestions?
Wont' be able to unless you take the blade off so you can take a long drill bit through the center of the grease hole. They get clogged with stuff and is almost hard to even drill through. BUT you might get lucky some other way i don't know about. Sorry for the bad news. Darin
I couldn't get mine to take any grease there either, soon as I get a chance, I'm gonna pull the blade it correct that.
Mine is the same way. I only use my dozer periodically, so I just spray the ball joint with cable lube. Works good for me.
can anyone tell me for sure what year my Komatsu D21A-7 is/ it has joystick controls & the serial number is 75978 thanks
My D21A-7E is a 1997 with #79300 so yours should be a year or 2 older I think. Darinray should be able to pinpoint it.
thanks, I was thinking it was a 95-96 just trying to pinpoint it, gonna list it on machinerytrader.com
Stateline- your machine is a 1992 model in my serial number guide. Darin
Stateline yes your photos are up on your shortcut. i just seen it. Also why didn't you tell me you are looking for a mini excavator. Dang contact me- I have those too.
Darin, thanks for the info, maybe you could PM me some info on your mini excavators
Storage Tips.... I have a Komatsu D21A-5 and I keep it indoors in an unheated garage. I won't be using it all winter. Are there any secrets as how to not have the clutches rust together, should I winterize the engine and can you winterize a diesel engine. I already use conditioner in the fuel tank. Anything else. I'm in Massachusetts and it can get pretty cold here. Thanks.
Thanks for the help.
frank, you really shouldn't have to do anything more to winterize it, if you have electric available, you mgiht want to put a battery tender on to keep the batteries charged. as far as the clutches, if you can, just pull the machine out of the garage every 3-4 weeks, warm everything up & turn it back & forth a few times, & put it back away. that should be plenty to keep clutches cleaned up.
Black I have a d21s-3 I need workshop manual and would like any info from the group... what year? How to repair steering
Black clutches etc.
I do have a copy of the shop manual for the -3's and I get $75 for it. I have clutches here in stock too so contact me anytime. If you give me the serial number I can run it to see what year it is. Darin [email protected]
darinray,,Hi my name is Paul , as you can see I am new to forum, I need a little help I D ing a komatsu d 20...the tag says D20A6 but it looks like it used to say 5 and someone stamped a 6 over it , the serial number is 62022..any help you can give is greatly appreciated and I hope I didn't bust in on someone on here..thank you , Paul
Hello Paul, Your machine is a -6 1987 model. Maybe it was a factory stamp mistake because with that serial number it is a -6. Talk to you later. Darin
thanks so much , Darin...I have been reading this forum for a few months and decided to join,,seems like a very imformative forum...I love to get on my d20 and spend some alone time clearing brush and road maintance on my 80 acres..look forward to being a member , Paul
Hey Tony, I have that same machine D21s 3 #30180. What kind of shape is yours in? How long have you had yours? Mine will need new tracks and sprockets soon . I just finished making ROPS for mine. I only need to connect the lights and make the back screen ancors and paint it. Mine was missing the floor below the pedals and one side cover and armor. I've made those parts and have installed them. I was also missing one arm rest metal bracket. Mine runs great and starts well even in the cold weather. What is funny is when I cleaned out all the dirt below where the floor was I found old gloves, 2 extra sets of keys, An altoids tin, one broken handle one seat hinge and lots of dirt. David
Hi Paul, Welcome I have a D20A-6 S/N 68449 that must make us practically neighbors. Darin if you would be so kind and let me know what year mine is. Oh and do you have the 13" wide track shoes for a D20-6? (Single grouser) mine has the 11" ones and I'd really like to upgrade. Larry
Hey Dewy-David, Do you have any pictures of the ROPS you built?????? OTE=dewy-david;200298]Hey Tony, I have that same machine D21s 3 #30180. What kind of shape is yours in? How long have you had yours? Mine will need new tracks and sprockets soon . I just finished making ROPS for mine. I only need to connect the lights and make the back screen ancors and paint it. Mine was missing the floor below the pedals and one side cover and armor. I've made those parts and have installed them. I was also missing one arm rest metal bracket. Mine runs great and starts well even in the cold weather. What is funny is when I cleaned out all the dirt below where the floor was I found old gloves, 2 extra sets of keys, An altoids tin, one broken handle one seat hinge and lots of dirt. David[/QUOTE]
Gugliols , thanks for the welcome,,you were talking about changing to the 13 " track..mine used to have 13's on it and had everything replaced ..sprockets , chains , rollers , idlers , pads, adjusters , EVERYTHING..anyway we went back with the 12" pads and they seem to get better traction than the 13's. mayby just the kind of dirt I have around here that I needed more pounds per square inch on the tracks...Paul
The correct oil for hydralic system is sae10w, sae10w/30, and even sae15/40...depending on the ambint temp in region....
Hello Larry, Your machine is a 1990 in my serial number guide. Yes I actually do have the 14" (13.5") but you have to be sure your machine can take the extra. Let me know if you think it will work. Darin
hey all newbie here great site great informative posts .. well anyway heres my problem i have a komatsu d31p.. machine starts great but u can here what sounds like air in pump under floorboards at idle while in gear..machine crawls at idle but as soon as you try to raise rpms very loud bang and machine stops moving ...machine has joystick steer and brakes are worn out...its been awhile (2 years since machine has worked) but the last time i tried to figure it out i think i changed pump suction hose under floor thinking it was sucking air but didnt help also not sure i used correct oil to refill i have read alot but not all posts on dozer forum anyhelp greatly appreciated thanks
D21p-7 I need a part? top roller the tracks glide on its located just in front of the sprocket its the passenger side if that matters. Looks like Darin may sell these or anyone else even a used one would be fine. Roy Lancaster [email protected] in Clarksville AR, 72830
Oh yeah I have those. $130 delivered.
Hi all, I am looking to purchase a Komatsu 275 and 375 for use in the UAE, has anybody any useful information or perhaps, a dozer for sale, preferably the hours should not be too high and it should be less than 3 years old.
http://photobucket.com/LancasterCompound BOTH HOBBIES RIDEN AND DOZIN
NICE job. If I wasn't so old that would be fun to ride on. Darin
Same here, probably wreck.
Hey all, I have a 2000 D-20P7 with around 3k hours. I seem to be experiencing problem related to steering clutch. My left side track stops pulling as well as the handle has to be pulled harder than right to turn. I have adjusted both sides according to manual, does this indicate worn clutches on left or possible adjustment is still not quite right. This seems to have occurred slowly but now it is affecting performance. Occasionally machine will seem to lock and not move at all without moving both levers. Thanks for any suggestions.
Thanks guys and Darin I will be callin for that part I am reworking the track and need to be finished by January.
Hydraulics struggling to lift blade Hello, I have a D41P-3 Komatsu dozer. Lately it has been struggling to lift the blade. My husband, who is kind enough to maintain my dozer, (in exchange for me plowing our very long driveway) has greased all the hydraulic fittings he can find but it still does not want to lift the blade as smoothly as before. I don't have a manual for this model. I have one for a newer model but the system is a little different so I'm not sure we have found all the fittings. Does anyone know if there are some that are hidden or harder to find that we might be missing? Or does this sound like some other problem? I just dropped about $1,700 on undercarriage work so I am hoping to find a cheaper fix this time. Thanks. Sheila
Hmmmm... If your left tracks stops pulling or stall out then yes you have some clutch issues and proabably needs to be tore down and inspected.. Could have oil in there, clutches are wore out, brake drum wore through, etc. The tracks locks up and bogs motor? Or the tracks stall and don't want to move and doesn't bog the motor? Darin
Start with an oil change and strainer and filter change. That is the simple and least expensive fix. Let us know how you make out. Darin
Interesting Forum. I see where it would come in very handy to share knowledge. I have a Furukawa CD5PB swamp dozer 1982? (manual trany) that I have had for almost 12 years. It has been very reliable and more that earned its keep though I have had to have the pins and bushings replaced 200 hrs back. I have the number on these if any one needs them as well as oil and fuel filters, Wix and Carquest. Reading through many of the posts in this topic I have been trying to see if I can puzzle out a way to fix my dozer or if it is scrap metal time. The steering on the right is almost entirely gone and the left is going since I have been using it almost entirely for the means of control. It seems to declutch, since it will roll on the tracks when pulling on the control levers going downhill, there is just no grab for turning the dozer. I know the main clutch is not all that good, but it does work for changing gears though not always returning fully from being depressed. I expect the parts for this machine are near non existent but reading through about adjusting steering brakes/clutches is a topic I see mentioned. How is this done? Or is that only for the komatsu small dozer? I notice that many of the features of the Komatsu, Mitsi and Hitachi are identical to my Furukawa. I do have a parts manual (Japanese) for the dozer, that has part numbers and expanded drawings of all the components. Would love to keep this thing going. Thanks for any help that anyone can offer.
Thanks Darin with reply, tracks will stall and act like machine is in neutral,no stalling. Do you have repair manual to cover this unit and how do I order? Mine is equipped with cab/air which if I understand correctly to get to clutches this requires removing seat to access, is this possible with cab? Maybe by removing rear window? I have read the other posts but to completely remove clutch assembly do you also remove the track sprocket and housing too or it simply lifts from where actuator meets brake band? Thanks again.
Yes i do have your parts and the repair manuals and would need your s/n to confirm. You can contact me anytime at [email protected] To be able to remove the steering clutches I would think you would have to take the cab off unless there is room for you to stand at the back and leaning over for a couple hours. Send me a pic of the cab setup and then I could tell. Not the tracks don't have to come off but just have the dozer in the air with proper blocking so you can spin the tracks manually. Darin
A follow on question re: Steering problems Furukawa CD5. I notice the level on the dipstick located in front of the main brake is low. I also notice the fluid on the dipstick beneath the seat behind the steering levers is milky. Would either of these cause issues with being able to steer the dozer?
An oh BTW, the pins and bushing kit for the swamp treads are Berco Kit: KM -910 Oil filter: Wix - 51261 Carquest - 85261 Fuel filter: Wix - 33394 Carquest - 86394
Matt, I would say that the oil level in the front one is either your clutch or your tranny dipstick and if it's low enough that would give the steering pump not pressure to be able to release the clutches. Your issue sounds like the clutches are gone or wet with oil when they are suppose to be dry. I think a teardown is in order to find whats really wrong. I can get you parts for your machine but you'll want to choke me becaue the prices are HIGH. Contact me anytime though. Darin
Where exactly is the filter? We have found two filters under the hood but aren't sure which one is the hydraulic filter. Or maybe we are looking in the wrong place. One filer says NAPA coolant filter 4070 and the other says lube 6136-51 Komatsu and is attached to a yellow bracket 6136-51-5111. Think I'm going to call the dealer tomorrow to see if they can help us figure it out.
Yeah the dealer shoudl be able to help you out. With your serial number I can look all that up. Let me know if you need it. Darin
The serial number that I found under the seat is 06803
Thank you for the reply Darinray. I figured the clutches were probably gone. Not sure if I have the ability to do a tear down repair. Though it is good to know that parts might be available even if expensive. I might just sell the old machine and pass on to a buyer the person to get parts from.
Furukawa Owners & Parts Regarding Furukawa Matt's postings... I'm trying to contact any owners of FURUKAWA CT5 & CD5 Crawlers,plus owners of HITACHI DX40/45 Dozers. I want to get a list of owners & parts compiled,as aftermarket parts are extremely hard to get. If you want to join the list,send contact details & any parts sources to myself: [email protected] Jim
What are you figuring this thing is worth. i might buy it for parts IF the price is very reasonable. You can send me a email at [email protected] if you wish. Darin
Your filter is on the tank on the right side right next to where you would add oil to it. Held on by 4 bolts and you can check that and or clean it. if it's your pump then you could have it check out or at least take a pressure reading off it. Hope you figure it out. Darin
Will you got one supplier of parts mentioned (darinray) and I mentioned the oil, fuel filter and PB. BTW the Dozer I have is Serial number 611-6968 and the engine has S4E on its side and is probably mitsubishi since the dozers ignition key has the symbol stamped on it. As for joining a list, being that you are in Australia it would not make any sense due to distance, but thanks for the offer.
Just to follow up on this, darinray and I did communicate but as of now did not reach a price. Distance to transport can really add to the cost of these machines. Something to keep in mind if someone buys out of State.
Problem solved Darin, Thanks for the info. I have gotten the problem resolved. You will think I'm an idiot, and you will be right! I called the Komatsu dealer today and they agreed to send someone out to look at the dozer for free if it was just a problem with low hydraulic fluid. I was sure the fluid was right up there because I had checked it with the dip stick. When the mechanic got here, he discovered that there was not one drop of hydraulic fluid in my dozer. Turns out that the dip stick is for the transmission fluid. There is a sight gauge for the hydraulic fluid. At least I know that now. Both hydraulic cylinders are leaking, which I already knew, so I will probably have to drop 1K or so at some point to get those fixed. But I can just add more fluid for the time being. Anyway, they topped me off and it will cost me about $80 for the fluid, so I can get back to plowing my driveway as it is snowing again in northern Michigan. Sheila
Well at least it's fixed for the time being.
Hi. I'm trying to find out some info. for my uncle who has purchased a dozer. It's a komatsu d20 P-6 How do you find out year? Serial number 68240. He's looking for a junked dozer of the same make & model near eastern Ky to purchase for parts. Any ideas guys? How much is average for a decent condition radiator? Any one have one for sale? anyone have a copy of a manual reasonable. He has a cd, but would prefer a book. THanks in advance for any replys
It's a 1989 model. If he has the cd just have it print it off and put it in a binder. That is your cheapest bet. Take it to some copying place with yoru cd. I would say you could spend up to $500 for a radiator depending on condition. I don't have one for your -6.
thanks darinray!
Sent an email to ya but maybe you didn't receive. My serial is :79105, needing repair manual. I will send pics soon to answer if you think clutch could be removed without pulling cab. Thanks Thanks
Here are some pics of machine. Thanks Darin
It looks like the cab has to come off. Too much stuff in the way really. BUT you can try it with it on and maybe it would just take a lot longer to do but would be do-able. Keep us posted. Nice looking machine.
I love that cab,,
Difficulty in posting a thread Ijust wanted some info on proper trailering equipment.
Trailer hauling excavator under 5 ton? Do you need to tie down on the bucket. Thanks .
Where might i find the law on hauling trailer with small excavator etc....
Searching for throttle cane for d20 Need a decently priced source for a throttle cable for my d20 komatsu dozer thanks for your time
Your looking at $145 delivered. Give me your model so I can make sure it's for your machine. Darin
d20a-5
yup I have those. Let me know. Darin
This thread has some info: As always it depends on the state involved. I wish they would standardise the laws.
need a source for an alternator for the same model dozer
which is a d20A-5. thank you for your time
how much for a reman starter for a D20 pl 6
what number do you have on your starter?
Reman starter question Komatsu D20 PL 6A Serial # 60357 Engine model # 4D95S Starter Nikko # 600-813-3170 serial # 023000-0100 24V 2.8 KW 7D23 Norestart relay # 025000-6970 24V Nikko What it's doing is it will barely turn her over 1 revolution and then it kicks out and just revs the starter motor. Ring gear is OK. Starter drive gear appears to have little wear. Generally she will start after a couple of tries and it's a cinch I'll never over heat it. I pulled it apart and cleaned up the commutator. The brushes and springs looked good. I relubricated it before reassembling it, but it works no differently. The starter motor drive gear turns very freely with no drag. Somebody told me that indicates the bendix clutch is shot. I even 86’d the norestart relay and put in a 24 volt starter switch relay in its place. Ironically it works no better and no worse than it did before I started trying to fix it. What is the Hippocratic Oath? I will prescribe regimens for the good of my patients according to my ability and my judgment and never do harm to anyone. (or machine) Ideas? John
My D21 got burned over! Firefighting in Central Texas can be a pain. I've got a D21 that was burned over during the Wilderness Ridge fire back in February of this year. There was so many other pieces of equipment damaged or destroyed during this fire that I'm just now getting around to the dozer. I'll post pictures when I can. What I need more than anything else is advice. I'm having to decide whether or not this machine can be saved and if so, is there a good source of used parts? Horrible way for this great little dozer to die. If you're curious about the fire itself, here is a link. http://txforestservice.tamu.edu/uploadedFiles/FRP/2WildernessRidgeCaseStudy.pdf Thanks in advance to all y'all who take the time to help others. Salvador Monella (SASS Handle)
Will be able to tell a bit better when we see pics. Darin
im new to dozers and i have a small problem with my d20a-5.the problem is there is a leak at a case that is to the inside of the track on the back of the dozer,there is also a plug that i can fit a socket wrench in and i was wondering if this is where i fill it at and what kind of fluid can i use.also how much do i fill it thanks for your time and have a nice day
Where is the leak? By the sprocket? That takes 30W engine oil. I've heard people putting 80/90 in it too but the book says 30W. Fill it up to the top plug that is facing away from the machine.
thanks i really appreciate your help. happy holidays
No prob. Merry Christmas Darin
Hi Darin, Thanks for taking call on Sunday. After I removed inspection plug from underneath and drained about 1 qt oil on left side, right side was dry, the clutches slowly began to engage again. I now understand the chattering noise that was developing during this process of the left track not pulling, clutches slipping do to oil. As clutches began to dry the chattering developed again but track was pulling and eventually ceased making noise. I will call you soon for repair manual and advise of which oil level drops. Thanks again for your support.
Check your final drive oil as well just becaue of the chattering noise. To get a real good look it's not a bad idea to just change the oil out that way you can see condition of oil. Darin
How many quarts of oil does a d20A-5 engine hold. thanks and happy holidays
8 qts 15W-40 diesel oil.
does my komatsu d21a-5 have the 4D95S engine in it,i was just wondering because its been burning oil and am guessing it might need a rebuild kit or something like similar. thank you for your time and support and have a happy holiday
Burned over D20A-6 I've got photos on the way. It believe it looks worse than it is. It won't be cheap, but we've only $1200.00 invested in it. I'm going to make the call on whether or not I can get it to start. The oil in the pan looks fine. anybody got wiring schematics and maybe a wiring diagram for this wee beastie? What I know I'm going to have to replace: All the hoses radiator alternator fuel lines fuel cap hydraulic tank cap blade control seals instrumentation wiring seat and seat deck batts Most of that stuff I can do with parts I can pick up at A&B Automotive if I had wiring diagrams / schematics. Once I hear the engine run I'll go from there. Any help would be greatly appreciated and if you know of any used parts sources that would be fantastic. Mercy Buckets y'all and have a Very Merry Christmas. Scott Captain Hwy 71 Station Heart of the Pines VFD Smithville TX
does my komatsu d21a-5 have the 4D95S engine in it,i was just wondering because its been burning oil and am guessing it might need a rebuild kit or something like similar. thank you for your time and support and have a happy holiday
It should say right on the engine tag plate. But yours is a 4D94. Darin
Thanks darin you saved me from posably ordering the wrong part in the future.
sry darin made a typo on dozer model number my dozer is actually a d20A-5 is the correct engine 4d95s,cant find the tag plate
Nope yours is a 4D94.
merry xmas eve everyone.have a happy holidays
Operating question I'm using a D20 to build a driveway around my shop. There's a lot of dirt to be removed on one side and the problem I'm having is I'll be pushing along, going great, and all of a sudden the blade will nose-dive making a huge gouge. What have I got to do to make it quit this?:Banghead
I have found when having to remove a lot of topsoil that for me it works best to break it into stages. First is the rough in stage where you get the majority of material off. It is best not to try to push the whole ground but to start on the end you are moving soil towards and than as the soil is moved off, keep moving backwards . This way you are not pushing against greater resistance for a longer way. Once you have removed the bulk you can do the finishing where you are only moving smaller amounts of soil so the weight of the soil is less likely to cause you to dig in. It can also helps running in a higher gear and doing a very light cut. Some dozer blades can float but unless you are careful you can end up with a constant series of up and downs as the blade grabs a rock or root. It comes down to the skill of the operator and the ability of the machine to end up with a level smooth surface. Some of the laser blade levelers that the big boys can afford must be great to have. I just have a simple two way bubble level that I attached to my Dozer when I knew I was on a level surface that provides a visual quick check for me. Good fortune on your driveway project.
That's what I was afraid of..
Mitsubishi BS3F Bevel Seals.. Just wondering if I need to remove the Bevel gear to renew the 2 seals near the steering cases.Both seals are leaking oil from bevel case to steering cases.I was hoping to just remove the steer drum couplings. Has anybody done this job before? Thanks, Jim
Re: Your Komutsu D21 P Hi, Now that you have had your machine for a while do you thik that you will be installing a set of doing rippers on her soon. Cheers Wheelybin.
D20A-6 Question Can anyone tell me the procedure for adjusting the valves on a 1988 D20A-6 4D95S-W-1 engine and the adjustment specs? The owners manual says to adjust every 2000 hours, how critical is this?
Hello Jim, Did you get to the bevel gear seals yet? I think it's all done inside from the steering clutch compartment. You have to take the flange off and then replace seal. Keep us posted and hopefully your better than me and actually take pictures while you work. I can't seem to remember to grab the camera when I'm all greasy. A lot of people here do and I think that is GREAT. Take care and good luck. Darin
Hi Darin, I always take pictures as I go.I find it invaluable,esp. if the repair is gonna take some time & things fade from memory.Last BS3 steering repair I did was 10 years ago...on an E model.I still have pictures of that job. I'm thinking that the flange will pull out & make seal replacement easy.....however,I have tried using 3 extractor bolts (on the LH side)& put some pull on the flange,but it's not gonna move easily.I don't want to put too much stress on the bevel bearings,so I'm wondering about my next move. I think I'll try pulling the steering from the RH side & see if that flange will pull out.The steering needs to come out anyway. My main concern is hurting the bevel bearings,whilst pulling the flanges. Any thoughts are welcome... PICTURES: First is my BS3F breakdown ( bevel shaft & flanges ,with no bevel in pic) & Second is my LH steering after removal. Thanks Jim
Shoot it sounds like you have a handle on this then. Normally the flanges come off with the extractor bolts applied with even pressure. All of a sudden *bang* and it's loose. Or try some wedges driving in between flange and the body. Heat is never fun down there as the torches normally start a nice fire and smoke BUT sometimes is only way. I keep a garden hose right by. Good luck and keep us posted. Darin
Hi Darin, I'm hoping the flange is just a bit tight & will extract with that sudden "BANG!" that we like to hear. The steering shaft/flange took a bit of pressing before it made that noise.... I was wondering about heat in that area...it might make extraction easy,but with oil & degreaser in the steer case,I ain't going there just yet... Jim
Jim, Please use caution when useing a torch in an area where degreaser has been applied . I read an article a while back about some degreasers put off toxic fumes when heated . The article was about a man found dead in his shop where he had been working on his car , trying to remove a breakdrum that had been cleaned with a spray degreaser , by heating it with a torch . Please look into it furthur , I know we have all done it but they are useing different chemicals all the time now.. after I read that , I don't do that anymore , thanks for reading , Paul
I found a link on degreasers being heated , everyone please read this , it COULD save your life , thanks , Paul http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htm
Hi Paul, I'll read your link shortly. I'm usually very cautious with flame & any chemicals I use in the shed. I found out that degreaser burns easy ,when I welded a bolt I was trying to extract ,& it caught fire after being cleaned in degreaser. I built my shed with 3 sides only,so airflow ain't a drama here. On a side note,I found that the degreaser SEEMED to clean up my oily/greasy fibre steering discs.I tidied them up with degreaser,wiped them clean,air-dried them & used brake cleaner on them. They look OK,but unsure how they will perform.... Here's some pics of my BS3F steering... Jim
I hope you do take the time to read it , it's not about it being flammable , its about one little wiff can kill you days later , just trying to help , thanks , Paul
Ok Guys, I got my Mitsubishi BS3F Bevel seals out,without too much hassle. While everything is well made on these machines,their tech manuals are typically Japanese...sparse info on step-by-step procedures.Compared to IH service manuals,the Jap stuff is a failure. Anyway,I'm gonna replace the leaky seals & the advice is to fill the seal lip with grease.Why the grease? Is it to keep seal expanded,or for sealing ability? I'm wondering if there are any other tips or checks I should make,while I'm this far into the machine? Any advice is appreciated. (First pic is general bevel area,second pic is extracting hubs to get to bevel seals.) Thanks, Jim
Hello Jim, nice work there and looks like you keep things nice and clean while working too> What is the weld on your right side clutch area wall? The grease I've been told is just for lube and keep the rubber coated so it doesn't dry out. ????
Hi Darin, Thanks for the advice on the grease.I just filled it up anyway,thinking it wasn't gonna do much harm. The weld is an original casing weld,although I noticed that this machine had a few rough-looking welds,even on the hubs.Seems to be strong enough,though. Yeah,I like to tidy up the work area...nothing worse that dropping a clean bolt into a heap of goo ..I tend to clean & wash everything,which is why I take forever to fix something.
Oh I wasn't sure on that weld area. It looks like you do nice work though. It sure is nice to work in a clean area. Its a smelly dusting oily crapy mess when first working on steering clutches thats for sure. Take care and thanks again for all the pics and info.
Darin, You are right...that weld has been done after machine was built. Looks like somebody has replaced the angled plate...the weld is just a join weld from 2 joined plates. I wonder if someone was trying to do a steering repair & removed the original plate to get more room to move ?? The Mitsubishis seem to have their own unique smell in the steering cases. I usually put on a nose mask when cleaning this area.It can get smelly & dusty. Jim
Hello everyone, just joined this forum today because i see that everyone's having questions about the mitsubishi and komatsu dozers. We are a heavy equipment and parts sales company in east texas. We primarily sell parts for the smaller dozers but we can get parts for just about anything with our 2 parts locator systems. Send us a message if you have any questions or need parts for your equipment. Thank you, Kent Baugh Equipment
Discovery on burned over D20A-6 and a stupid question. After the fire I discovered the following. I got off very easy. Radiator is good as is the oil cooler. Starter is fine but the solenoid is toast. Fuel injection system is fine but the alternator and radiator fan are damaged beyond repair. I have to replace all the instrument cluster. (no biggie there. I've made harnesses for electric vehicles before) Throttle cable is bad but not because of the fire. Jury is still out on the hydraulic pump. All the plugs, dipsticks etc are fine. I guess I'll be sending Mr Baugh more of our money. (Thanks by the way to the KTBaugh folks. Very nice, and extremely helpful) Now for the stupid question. What is that little parasitic relay, electronics module that's wedged between the starter and the solenoid? It's burned to a crisp. Was it some type of glow plug timer/relay? It's not on any of my schematics. Once again I'm working on the photos. (I never remember to bring my camera with me) Oh well, off to work on the tender.
I am having a little problem with the clutch on my d206...the clutch will not Disengage until the machine warms up and then it works fine , when cold you cannot put it in gear and if you do get it in you can not get it out ,..if the wrong oil is in transmission , would it cause this??My manual says 10 w oil. I went to the tractor supply place here and they said that is just hydralic fluid..is this true??? I don't know whats in it now , but it seems a little thick for 10 w....any help on this would be greatly appreciated,,,Paul
10W engine oil not hydraulic oil in clutch reservoir and 10W in tranny up to 50 degree F then you are suppose to put in 30W for a range of 0 degrees to and up. Put in the 30 weight. When you try to get it in gear does it just grind gears? If so you have to adjust (tighten) your intertia brake around your drive shaft. Darin
HELLO MANIAC, YOU ARE BETTER OFF RUNNING A 30W OR 15W40 MOTOR OIL IN THE MAIN CLUTCH HOUSING. YOU CAN ALSO RUN MOTOR OIL IN THE TRANS/REAR DIFFERENTIAL. HERE IN TEXAS WE RUN 90W GEAR OIL IN THE TRANS/REAR DIFFERENTIAL. YOU WILL SEE BETTER RESULTS WITH THE HEAVIER OIL IN THE CLUTCH HOUSING. I KNOW WHAT KOMATSU BOOKS SAY, BUT WE'VE WORKED ON 100'S OF THESE DOZERS AND OUR LOCAL KOMATSU DEALER CALLS US FOR ADVICE. THANKS, KENT BAUGH EQUIPMENT www.ktbaugh.com
:dizzy:dizzy:dizzy
Oops...
KT, are you able to drain clutch housing through inspection plate or do you need to remove belly pan to gain access. Also would you recommend cleaning filter at the same time? Thanks Glen
Hello, there should be a plate you can remove from the rear belly pan to get to the drain plug on the clutch housing. It is not a bad idea to clean the filter while you are in the area. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks, kent baugh equipment www.ktbaugh.com
Thanks Darin and KT., I guess I will drain it and try straight 30w . I can't find 10W around here anywhere..I don't know whats in there now so better safe than sorry...I don't know if its the band or not , more like plates sticking together because when I press clutch it keeps pulling , after about 10 min or so it starts working right ?? it doesn't set up alot and its like that everyday if you are useing it everyday...I have adjusted linkage just like it shows in the shop manual , I just thought if it had the wrong oil in it , it might cause this...one more question if you don't mind...can you run hydralic fluid in the resovoir for the blade??? it says 10w oil also...Hope I'm not asking to many questions at once or repeating something thats been said before in the forum,,,,thanks again , Paul
You can run a premium hydraulic fluid in the hydraulic tank. Thanks, kent baugh equipment www.ktbaugh.com
I donot know if I am in the right place for my question, but here gos. I have a D21p. I have a crack that has been welded and cracked again on the front fork that holds and lifts the blade. I was told that there was a kit available to repair this. Anybody know anything about this? Thanks, G
Hello...i've worked for a Komatsu dealer for many yrs....I 2 have noe heard of a kit..but there is a parts and service news bulliten on th e repair procedure. i will find it and post it for u ...
Thank you for your replys. G
Terminology ?? If a machine is needing "pins and bushings", is that referring to the hydraulic cylinders and other pivot points of moving parts or to the pins that hold the links of the track together? BTW, very thankful for this forum. Would love to know the cumulative years of experience represented here.:notworthy
27yrs.heavy equip. repair here.........you are correct and also the undercarraige would come under the pin/bushing group....
15 years in aftermarket undercarriage sales and service
42 years total so far....Well that is between the 2 of them above. Actually not much from me really as I've only been in business for 5 years going on 6 this year. Actually I would rather sell the equipment without working on them but that doesn't happen much at all. That is why I have ample parts laying around or the resources to find them. Darin
I am rather new on the forum , but I have to say ,,for you guys with the knowledge and experience to give your time on here to help people with their little dozers is to be applauded...THANK YOU, Paul
Komatsu PTO ??? I have a 1985 Komatsu D21A-5. Is there an add on for a rear PTO that can be installed or added on the dozer factory or otherwise and how about a 3 point hitch? I really don't want to buy a Nortrac Dozer just for those items.
Frank there should be a shaft inside the round cover on the back of the dozer that a pto shaft can be hooked up to but you have to have the drive shaft that connects inside to come out the back of the machine. The problem is, finding a good used 3 point to put on it because purchasing one from komatsu is out of the question. You would spend more on a new one than you can buy another machine for. I would stay away from the nortrac "chinese dozers" because they just wont hold up and parts are a nightmare. Kent baugh www.ktbaugh.com
Well then, since the PTO is out of the question, does anyone know the lines I can tap into to at least add a valve so as I can operate a hydraulic cylinder for a 3 point hitch? Also any plans for a Catagory I hitch? Anyone have a 3 point hitch on their Kaomatsu dozer?
Bd2g ii Kent or Darin, I have a shut-off problem with my Mitsubishi. When I turn the key off the solenoid will not pull up as it should. It doesn't always do it but most of the time it won't shut down.:Banghead I have the manuals and I can't see 24 volts at the terminal on top, I have tried to trace it back and I just can't seem to see it at the terminal when I turn off the key or while it is on. After I manually pull up the lever itwill shut off and sometimes will work for a few times after that. I thought the lever may be sticking but that doesn't seem to be it. Do you think the solenoid is bad or am I just losing or not dis-connecting the 24 volts? Or does it have 24 V all the time? :beatsme Looks like it's a nightmare to change that solenoid. Hope you guys can help me with this. By the way Kent, you have worked on this dozer before. You put new seal in the right rear side about 2 years ago and I have to tell everyone how great you guys treat people there at your place, I have sent or told many how reasonable and nice you guys are:notworthy keep it up and thanks for any help. Fred [email protected]
hello fred, the mitsubishi is a very good dozer but their only fall back is the electrical systems. there is probably a short somewhere in the system but finding it is almost impossible. at our shop we find a hot wire under the dash, run it to a push button switch and then to the solenoid. after you have done this, you will just be able to push the button to kill the machine. thanks for your comments. kent baugh www.ktbaugh.com
Thanks Kent Thank you very much!! I was wondering if I could do that and I sure appreciate your info. What you are saying is I will apply 24V when I push the button OR will it dis-connect the 24V when pushed? If it removes the voltage then that tells me I should "always" have 24V to that terminal, is that right? ointhead Fred
when you push the button it will send 24v to the solenoid. kent baugh www.ktbaugh.com
Bd2g ii Kent, never mind....I re-read you post and now I understand. The button will apply 24V to the solenoid when pushed and will be ready for the next time. Thanks again, hope to see y'all sometime soon. Fred
OR you can try and change your starter stop timer that is located under the dash (little black box)on the right side of the machine. You gain access by lifting the hood. Darin
I've had it be a key switch too though.
Bd2g ii Thanks Darin, I already tried the key switch and that didn't work. I don't know about the start stop timer box, I know where it is but Not what it does. Thanks for the help. Fred
If you feel like trying it and that doesn't fix it I'll buy it off you and keep on my shelf for future use. Keep us posted what you find. Darin
Boy those puppies are expensive and forgot how much until I verified price yesterday with Mitsubishi. IF I was the end user I would just put a pull cable on the fuel shutoff and get rid of the electric side of it all together. I am use to having to fix a machine the proper way because all I do is resell them but at over $200 for that little start stop timer you can buy one heck of a pull cable and never have to worry about it again. Keep us posted and my offer does still stand. Darin
BDII stop issue Thanks Darin, I was going to do just that with a linkage of some sort. I had a design in my mind but that lever is very close to the side of the block there isn't much room to get anything except maybe a small mower wire type in there. I bought a push button horn type switch and wired to 24V supply and it works really good. The only problem is that you have to hold it down till the engine is completely dead or it will keep running. I did figure out that is what the black box does... holds the lever up a few seconds till it dies. OH well..this will work fine and is better than nothing, (cheaper too) at least I can shut it off without having to raise the hood or remove a side panel. I am guessing that Kent was right about the short some where...:Banghead I have looked but haven't found it yet. Thank both of you for the info and help with it.:notworthy Fred
no problem, glad you took my advice. its the best way to fix the problem. thanks, kent baugh www.ktbaugh.com
A little help? does anybody know what Komatsu part# 705-67-01440 does when it's not hiding in a little yellow envelope on my desk? I'm assuming it goes to the Hydraulic controller but I know where assuming has gotten me in the past. Mercy buckets in advance... Spot
hello, this is a back up ring that goes in the hydraulic pump on the side of the engine. thanks, kent baugh www.ktbaugh.com
I thought there was just the two o-rings and the shaft seal in the pump. Where on earth would you fit that thing inside the pump? Or does it go between the pump housing and the alternator bracket? I've a 55mm o-ring that claims to live there.
Thank you Kent The fax told me what I needed to know. (that I'm missing a part). I guess I need to buy a parts book sooner than later. I'll get that water pump out to you very shortly. That said, is that little mutant drive shaft rebuildable or does it need to be replaced as a unit. Once again thanks and I'm sure I'll be buying more parts from you shortly. This is a big change from working on brush trucks. spot
hello, you should be able to just get the joints but i can check on it monday. thanks, kent baugh www.ktbaugh.com
Buy the parts book I got my parts book in and it is a life saver. I've had the owners manual and service manuals for a while and they're weak compared to the parts book.
Undercarriage Pricing I was wondering about the prices I've been given on parts - what do y'all think? It's for a D20P-6: Chain with pads $1826 (single grouser) chain w/o pads $1000, pads $22 ea top rollers $127 bottom rollers $128 I failed to get a price on the sprockets. Shop labor $68 / hr. Are these prices competitive?
Response to pricing ? Ron I paid about 80 bucks each for non OEM bottom rollers from Heavyquip in Irving Texas 2 years ago. John
Another Oil question I have a Komatsu D21 and the steering controls don't seem to be responding as they should. Going forward, it doesn't want to turn left. In reverse, it doesn't want to turn right. Could this problem be related to low oil levels (or wrong oil) in the transmission case and/or transfer, bevel gear case? Is the trans/rear differential you speak of above the same as the transfer, bevel gear that I see on page 21 of the operator's manual? Is the main clutch housing you speak of above and the transmission case on the D21 the same thing? Just trying to figure out what oil I need for these... Also just could not believe that I needed engine oil for the hydraulics. Is Rotella OK for that? Thanks for your help. You guys are amazing.
I'd be interested in hearing ideas on the directional problem as well, my 21 has recently only been turning left when I pull the lever all the way to the stop.
I have two questions. Probably read the answer in the past but can't remember. 1. I need to put in grease to tighten the tracks. Could not get the zerks to take it. Used an ice pick to make sure the ball was loose and spring was flexing. All seemed ok, but still wouldn't take grease. Any tricks or advise on this? 2. Right steering lever works great. Left is another story. I can get it to turn, but it pulls the engine. Apparently clutch is not releasing. Is there an adjustment I can do? Well I guess I need a third question. 3. Where is a good source of manuals? I only have owners manual from dealer. Thanks a bunch for all the good info you guys provide. And thanks to the newbies (like me) for asking all the questions.
21 p 1st post. We have a 21p with rubber tracks that we use for fine grade and backfill operations that has been a great asset to our company.
Oils to use Hello everyone, these are the oils that we use on the d21: Engine: 15w40 motor oil transmission: 30w or 15w40 motor oil rear differential: 90w gear oil final drives: 90w gear oil these are the oils that we use on the d20: Engine: 15w40 motor oil wet main clutch: 15w40 motor oil transmission & rear differential: 90w gear oil final drives: 90w gear oil on the d20 the oil in the rear differential and transmission run together and fill at the dipstick at the rear of the floor. Thanks, kent baugh www.ktbaugh.com
Steering problems Hello everyone, your steering problems can be caused by a number of things: Wrong oil type bad steering clutch disks oil leaking into the clutches bearing failure in the clutch housings bad brake bands low oil pressure bad piston seals it is hard to diagnose a problem without running the dozer or talking to someone about the problems but maybe these ideas above will help out. Thank you, kent baugh www.ktbaugh.com
Track tensioners Hello everyone, a common problem with the track tensioner is that they rust and freeze up inside not allowing them to take grease. You can try to replace the grease valve but this may not cure your problems. Thank you, kent baugh www.ktbaugh.com
1st Post I've had my D-21P7 for three years now and been amazed at how reliable and trouble free it's been. This forum has hopefully saved me some grief by pointing out some some weak points such as the steering clutch / brake, and recommended fluids, zerk care. Is track tension/sag measured by laying a 2x4 on the treads? Could someone submit a picture of the drain plug to confirm no oil in the clutch/brake housing? Any hints on repairing the fiberglass sunshield (doesn't like oak limbs) or mounting an aftermarket ROPS and seatbelts? BTW, I've driven the swamp treads short distances on an asphalt road to clear a downed tree without leaving marks. We unloaded it from the 4ft truck bed by backing up to a gravel pile, but don't recommend it because of the resulting steep angle. Plan on your new dozer showing up at dusk with the driver ia hurry...
1st Post I've had my D-21P7 for three years now and been amazed at how reliable and trouble free it's been. This forum has hopefully saved me some grief by pointing out some some weak points such as the steering clutch / brake, and recommended fluids, zerk care. Is track tension/sag measured by laying a 2x4 on the treads? Could someone submit a picture of the drain plug to confirm no oil in the clutch/brake housing? Any hints on repairing the fiberglass sunshield (doesn't like oak limbs) or mounting an aftermarket ROPS and seatbelts? BTW, I've driven the swamp treads short distances on an asphalt road to clear a downed tree without leaving marks. We unloaded it from the 4ft truck bed by backing up to a gravel pile, but don't recommend it because of the resulting steep angle. Plan on your new dozer showing up at dusk with the driver ia hurry...
Oils to use in BD2F Kent, should I use the 15W40 motor oil in the wet main clutch of a BD2F? Thanks,
Oil to use Hello gregorb, you can use either 15w40 or 30w in the wet clutch. Thank you, kent baugh www.ktbaugh.com
Thanks for the info Kent
motor type I have a Komatsu D21P-7. The Serial number is 76112. I have been told that some of the motors are 50 hp. Some are 40hp. Is that right and if so what motor should be in mine. Cheers, Gary Couch
Komatsu D21P-6 question about shifting I recently went and looked at a D21P-6. This is the first time I ever operated one of these little wonders and was definitly impressed, but I have a question about the shifting . When I would shift into forward 1 there was a little hesitation and then when shifted into forward 2 there was a hesitation. When shifting down it would do the same and also it would do the same on the reverse side. Just a slight hesitation between gears, but everything operated fine. Like I said this is the first one I ever operated, so is this normal.
dozer parts Kent, How much do you get for a clutch cable for a D21 these days? Mine broke but have a temporary fix on it, but will probably replace it in the near future. BTW, thanks for your help on the lubrication issues. I Am doing some much needed maintenance on it this weekend. Johnny
Horsepower Hello couchy, you will see people advertise the d20 & d21 at different horsepowers. They are all 40 horsepower. Dont let anyone lie to you. Thanks, kent baugh www.ktbaugh.com
Shifting question Hello dozerboy, you see alot of the d21 dozers that hesitate when shifting gears especially when the transmission is cold. The transmission probably just needs to be serviced and the screen changed. The d21 transmissions are very well built and pretty much bullet proof. I have rebuilt many d31, d37 and d41 transmissions but never had to work on one from the d21. Thanks kent baugh www.ktbaugh.com
Dozer parts Hello jwebb, sorry but im not allowed to do any advertising of parts on this site. Thanks, kent baugh www.ktbaugh.com
Cutting edge bolts Does anyone know if the cutting edge bolts on the Komatsu's will work on a Mitsubishi BD2F? Thanks, Greg
With the cutting edges I sell for the Mitsubishi dozers they have 1/2" X 1 1/2" bolts to mount them. Darin
Those clutch (inching) cables for the D21 run $128.26. 103-43-33350 part number... That is from Komatsu. Darin
Dozerboy28 if considering a dozer you could always have it looked at by a heavy equipment mechanic before purchasing. I've have customers come out with techs and actually even some have pulled oil samples too. Of course I don't because it's a smart thing to do BEFORE buying. Darin
Thanks for the Help, but one more question This D21P-6 doesnt want to steer left. When I pull the lever nothing happens, I don't even feel a little resistance. He claims it worked fine when he parked it. The right side works fine. I am willing to do the work, but I just want to know what I am getting into. Brake band? Steering clutch? oil seal? Difficulty in this repair?:bash
Does the lever pull really far back with no resistance? If it does then try to tighten the brake band clearance around the drum by removing the little rear cover and turning the 17mm bolt head. If it's real tight you can put a nice cheater bar on it and make it turn with some penetrating oil too. Did you end up buying the machien or still looking it over?
D21p-6 Hopefully buying it this weekend, going to call him with an offer shortly
D20 - Brake sticking on left side I have had my d20 for about 4 years, I have the occasional problem where I have let it sit too long, and the clutches need worked loose.... I have always been successful at getting them worked loose by just driving it and braking hard a few times. However, now I have something new (to me)... the brake on the left track seems to be hanging up... I noticed a couple of time that the dozer was running as though the brake were applied (motor bogging down).... but NOT while I am pulling the steering lever... just driving normal... I took the seat off to expose the "stuff".... I can see that the lever for the brake is "stiff" on the left side... but I can see that the right side moves easily when I pull the steering lever... The braking lever on the left side appears to be "stuck" about halfway engaged and doesn't want to move either way much (it has a very small amount of play... and that small amount is very tight or hard to move)... Any advice ... cool tricks to free it up would be greatly appreciated.... looks like it would be a real booger to open it up....
back the brake band tension off if you think it's locking up... little cover on the back side held on by 2 17mm bolts... Does your right lever pull farther out toward you when trying to turn? If it does then it sounds like your left brake may be too tight. If not then it's probably stuck in the apply brake position. You can try to just use penetrating oil on the brake lever and rotate it back and forth with a big wrench (or crescent wrench). If that doesn't work I've had to drill and tap the collar where it rotates to put a grease fitting in it. Boy then it moves smooth. Try these and let us know how you make out. Darin
The lever pulls as expected... I can physically see the lever is pulled (and stuck) partially in the "appy brake position" .... Since I haven't seen the inside I wasn't sure if the "stuckness" was coming from visible area where the lever shaft goes thru the housing... or if it iwas something more internal that was causing resistance.... The grease fitting sounds like a good idea ... anyone got a picture of where how they installed one? Were you able to install it in place, or did you have to remove the housing to do so?
Mitisubishi cutting edge bolts Darin, thanks for the information. I'm turning the cutting edge on my dozer. The nuts and bolts are worn down. I ended up finding bolts at Tractor Supply. I needed 1/2 x 1 3/4. They had the 1/2 x 1 1/2, but they would have been a little short. I ended up using 1/2 x 2 and they worked out ok. Thanks, Greg
Yes you can install it in place. Just don't drill into the pin too much. As soon as it breaks through it is deep enough. You will need a short start tap to thread the hole becuase it can't be the gradual thread starter due to the lack of material and depth you go. I think it's more of a thread cleaner and not a tap. Same size thread from start to finish of the tap. Sorry I don't have any pictures but you will know where to install it when you look where the rod has to move through on the external side. Darin
Glad everything worked out for you. Darin
here is the set I use. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00942275000P?vName=Tools&sName=Taps+%26+Dies&cName=Auto+%26+Mechanics+Tools
Here is a pic of the general spot. Put it in the easiest spot to get to.
Darin, Thanks for the replies and the picture... I have an update. Today me and the "the boys" moved the d20 into the shop and tore into it... Here was the strange thing about the brake lever... it wasn't "locked" hard... but rather it had a little bit of play and then wouldn't move any more... I removed the housing... and the arm/shaft still had a little play but wouldn't move very far.... so, I removed the shaft... at first I thought that there were "Bushings" on the inside of the shaft-way ... but after a closer inspection I seen that it was needle bearings, and they were gunked.. but more importantly damaged in such a way that the bearing was locking up on the shaft (a loose needle was binding on the shaft).... I have a picture and will post it if I can figure out how. So, it looks like that will be a pretty easy fix once I can get the seals and bearings... I suppose I should probably replace them in the other side since it probably isn't far behind this side... An observation/musing ... seems to me that in the dry environment (of the dry clutch)... and factoring in the dost from the clutch/brake... that a bushing might have been a better design that the needle bearings??? I intend to add the grease zerk as well... should be pretty easy now that the housing has been removed...... But now hear is my dillema.... And let me say first that the machine has been working fine for me until this break dragging epsisode... but my dillema is this. I have gone to all the trouble of tearing it down, and the inside of the cavity where the clutch/brake is is terribly filthy... (rust and dust)... Also, it appears to me that the adjusting bolt on the clutch arm is adjusted to the max... so I assume that the clutches are pretty worn (even though they have been performing fine)... so, do I just slap these bearings in and go till it breaks then fix it.... or do I pull change the clutches and the brake lining now while it is apart??? I see that there is bolts on both sides... can someone detail the process for removing the brake/clutch assembly now that I have the housing off?
I have a picture of the bearing that I was going to post... but it appears I cannot yet post attachments???
Picture of Brake Lever Bearing Somebody fixed me up so I can post attacments... Thanks! On the right side of the image you can see the space... that needle was binding the shaft pretty good.... along with all the gunk that made it an "un-bearing"......
That is one ugly bearing
Yikes. Yeah she is toast. Sometimes even grease can't fix a bearing like that. Well basically I woudl love to sell you a complete set of clutches and disc BUT you tore into it once so in the future will be even easier for you so I woudl run it. Just keep me in mind when you need parts both OEM and aftermarket. I just tore into a dozer (thats where I got the pic) this last week where the adjusting bolt seemed to be at tht end of the travel but found that the threads were full of crap and rust. After running my die down it now it's all clean with lots of threads now. Just in case yours is the same. If yours is truley wore that bad and is at the end you will need to check the brake band and the outer drum for wear. Those bolts you see on both sides will have to come out one at a time and then rotate the tracks to get to the next set of bolts. Just jack the machine off the ground and leave the tracks on so you can move the tracks with a jack to get to all the bolts. Once the bolts are out you pry the inner drum inside the outer drum so you can raise the unit out of the well. I mark the position of the pieces before removing BUT is not really necessary. The clutch pack can be disassembled with a compression tool. I use 1/2 threaded rod with washers and nuts to keep the tension on the inside springs until I remove the bolts holding them together and then just back it off till the tension is gone. I have the directions out of the manual if you want I can copy and email you or fax them to you. Let me know becuase the way I do it might not be the best but it does work for me. Keep us posted.
I may have miscommunicated the info about the adfustment... I am not referring to the brake band adjustment... what I am referring to is on the clutch fork arm... at the end of it their is a bolt... after thinking about it, I may be interpreting it backwards??? Meaning... maybe my clutches are really good?? ... At the end of the clutch fork, where it meets the hydraulic actuating piston... the bolt is installed such that most of the threads on the bolt are poining toward the outside of the dozer.. (hope that makes sense, if not I can take a picture tomorrow)... The brake drum looks good from the perspective of wear... and the friction pad on the brake band looks ok as well (maybe 3/16 of an inch thick?) The "sparkly" dust is just everywhere... coating everything (except the aread where the brake band rides)... And it seems to be about 1/4 inch thick in the bottom of the cavity... not sure how much of that is possibly dirt... or worn pads from days gone by... The inside of the cavity is bone dry everywhere... and I assume that is a good sign... no sign of leakage of fluid from anywhere. I suppose I should purchase a manual eventually, but if it isn't too much trouble I would appreciate you emailing the instructions from the manual.. although what you gave sounds straight forward enough... I have 2 sons helping me (16 and 18 yrs old).... trying to use this as a learning experience for them. Do you sell the bearings and seals that I am in need of??? do you have the part #'s? We have a local bearing/seal distributor.... I wonder if it would be better sourced from them or Kubota?
oops... what a typo ... meant to say Komatsu.... don't know where that came from...
What machine do you have?? D20 what dash what? Like D20A-6?? Talk to you soon.
D20P-6 Standard transmission pyramid tracks
Ok. yeah I have those here in stock. I actually will be using 2 of them today as well due to the machine I have tore apart has the same problem as yours on the one side. BUT I also had to put new clutches and steel disc in mine both sides. The clutches were still working and probably would have lasted well after i sold it BUT the steel plates were rusted and pitted pretty good and the teeth on the clutches were probably 50% remaining. Send me an email so I can reply with your copies of the manual pages... [email protected]
What is the price on the bearing and seal?
email sent with prices and documents. Darin www.dmmsales.com [email protected]
I had posted earlier that I was having trouble adjusting my tracks. The zerks would not take grease. Today I used a trick I had figured out on other problem farm equip. I took out the zerks (which would take grease when out of the machine) and screwed the grease gun hose in about a turn and a half to get a snug fit. Adjusted the tracks fine. The question I now have is what size zerk do I need to replace the old ones? Apparently they have rusted to the point I can not get a good enough seal to push the grease. Thanks.
Picture of the Adjusting bolt for the Clutch fork So..... This is the adjusting bolt that I was referring to. I figure the fact that is at the end the extreme end of the threads... either means the clutches are almost new.... or almost worn out??? Comments?
Left Steering Brake / Clutch from top Pretty decent view of the clutch / Brake .... There doesn't seem to be any noticable wear on the drum surface where the brake rides on it as compared to the rusty section ... Again, if anything sticks out as needing attention, comments welcome...
View of clutch area from a distance A more distant view... the oil leakage here is the oil that ran out of the valve when I removed it... it was dry before... Hope I am not going too crazy with posting the pictures... I would have liked to have seen these pictures before tearing into the unit... thought someone else might appreciate them... and maybe they will highlight something I need to be instructed about....
close up view of the brake band and drum A close up view .... this should be the last pic for a while....
Heck yeah people love to see pictures and just wish I was smart enough to have a camera with me when getting dirty. The threaded bolt of yours is actually installed backwards. The square head needs to be on the steering clutch side and the threaded with rounded end needs to be against the cylinder when it's actuated. Darin
That would make sense on the bolt.... so what is the answer on my clutches... is the position of the bolt evidence one way or the other of the condition of my clutches... this machine (if the hour meter can be believed) doesn't have too many hours on it.. (I will check later to see what it says...) ...
Also make sure the yoke (arm that moves to disengage clutches) moves nice a free back and forth. You will be able to push it with your hand against the clutch pack and then all the way back toward the bevel gear.
Well once it's put back to norm it will give you a better look. The books says 121mm + or - .5mm from center of machine to the tip of the adjusting bolts on the release yoke. It's hard to tell really the condition without tearing them apart and looking at the clutches and steel disc. BUT you mentioned it was working fine except the brake band was stuck in the engaged position bogging motor down right? Darin
Correct... it was working great, and I have never experienced any clutch slippage... On the close up pic of the brake drum you can see where I drug my finger across the drum surface (the gunk on the survace is loose debris that fell after opening the top)... Other than the redish rusty coating on the outside of the parts everything seems to be in good shape... Does the surface rust appear to be about normal compared to what you have seen on other machines?
yeah they are all rusty, dusty, oily, dirty. Can't stand the smell of this work. Open a compartment that has been sealed for years and everything you touch is filthy and the smell lingers way too long.
Darinray and Jolley Giant, I have been following your recent conversations about Jolley's steering problem on his D20p-6. Funny thing is that I just bought a D21P-6 and I am having the same problems and everything in those pictures I am seeing in front of me. By the way, the pictures have been very helpful. Right know I have it tore down to the left hand clutch assy. and I can't seem to remove it. I have all the bolts out of it, inboard and outboard, I can also see a lip on the inside edge. It is loose and I can wiggle every thing real good, but it doesn't seem to want to come out. The maintenance manual has a little note that states to remove the "clutch pilot." Am I missing something obvious? Like I said it is all loose and acts like it wants to come out, but it just won't. Please help.
Clutch problem Hello dozerboy, you will need to make sure that the arm that disengages the clutch is all the way back. It should move from side to side by hand. If not tap it with a hammer toward the center of the machine. Your clutch pack could be hanging up on the 4 ears that disengage the clutch. If this is not the problem, you can take a pry bar or chisel between the inner flange and clutch pack. This will shove the clutch pack toward the final drive to allow you enough room to pull it out. Let me know if you need any other advice. Thank you, kent baugh www.ktbaugh.com
You might even see that when using a chisel to move the clutche pack inside the outer drum that it just springs back out once you drive the chisel back out. What you will end up having to do is keep rotating the track so you can work the opposite side and then even 1/4 turns until you drive the pack finally inside. If you are trying to release the slip yoke ears that actually do the clutch releasing I just had to use the chisel technique on that too because when you tried to "tap" with a hammer your bearing stays put with the ears right in the way and the slip yoke moves only. So then you drive your chisel between the inner flange and the slip yoke. Mine released after soakign in penetrating oil and beating it out. Keep in mind the chisel can fly back toward you when attempting these methods so BE WARNED and take safety measures. Darin
D21P-6 clutch removal How far should the clutch pack recess into the outer drum? All the way or just some? I broke it loose with some scrumf and BFT's, but it just doesn't want to come out. Thanks again for the help ointhead
basically it goes in just far enough to clear the flange ridges. Can you look down to see if the forks are in the way? Drive a chisel down pushing the clutch pack in a shine flashlight down to see. Everything is stuborn when old and used.
Where's the masterlink d21p-7 All pins have a dimple and no link looks different no inside link found.
Well that does make it tough. Now what you have to do is make sure your tracks are nice and clean and take a flashlight and look down at every link and find the master bushing which doesn't go into the dog ears of the track. If you can image the pin being removed the link would have to be able to raise out of the dog ears so the bushing is shorter than a regular link bushing. if you can see that the bushing woudl clear the dog ears then that is the master link. Keep us posted.
Thanks Darin and after its found how far out on the arm does it need to be b-4 I can remove a link and still get it back together.. I am ready for the rollers I couldnt believe the bolts all came out
I have a D20-A5 komatsu that has pedal steering. I would like to change it over to stick controls. What will i need to change it over? do salvage yards offer these parts in a kit? Has anyone changed the steering systems on one of these dozers? thanks luke
are ther any diff kind of tracks on these units I can not see or understand what im looking for will load picts tomorrow.
Been having trouble getting on the forum lately. You want to make sure they are nice and wore and stretched. The front idler needs to be at the end of the limit hanging close to the end or over the end is better.
Its almost or is at the end so I will try to remove a link then hopfully get some more use out em the pins and links are still good just have no more adjustment and then ill be hitten you up but so far I still cant find the masterlink
Selling my Komatsu D21A-5.... Before I go public with an ad, I am selling my Komatsu D21A-5. Runs like new and needs nothing. I think $9,500.00 plus or minus is a reasonable price.
Darin, I finally got the steering clutches out of the machine (D21P-6). They feel a little gritty and some of them are pitted, but none of them are stuck together. Is the grittyness normal or should they be sleek and shiny? Do you know what the fiber measurement should be on a serviceable clutch plate?
The steel plates are smooth new and should have no pits. The clutches are 5.4 mm - replace time. They say that when they are new they are 6mm thick but haven't even measured one yet. The steel plates are 2mm new and 1.8 repace. Hope this helps and talk to you anytime.
d217a -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- looking at this dozer, its a 1995 and has 2k on the meter owner says it has joy stick control? anyone have seat time on a small dozer like this? pros cons etc thanks in advance
I hope I'm not getting in the way here. I didn't see a way to post on this specific branch of the forum. I haven't been active on the forum in a long time. I'm sure glad to see the "little dozer" branch here. Thanks to all. I have a D20 S_5 track loader, the glow wire in the circuit for the glow plugs has corroded/burned in two. I am thinkin of replacing it with a common automotive type ballast resistor. Does anyone know the approximate resistance value of the element. The electrical system is 24v, but I think the plugs are 12 or 10v ??? Any, and ALL help appreciated. Gary
edit/update : I pulled one of the glow plugs, cleaned it up, and it's marked ND 067100-1161 20.5v 6T. I put 12.8 volts on its at the bench, and it pulled about 8 amps and got very hot, very quick, and of course the current dropped as the element heated up. Does the 20.5v mean that's the max voltage, or the operating voltage, or what ?? Maybe the circuit doesn't need a dropping resistor ? What about wiring a 24v lite bulb in place of the indicating coil ? Sure would hate to burn up the plugs. Any ideas ? Gary
The best thing and easiest thing for you to do is just replace the glow plug indicator. If you want to get one contact me privately because my posts have been too forthcoming and was reported. Didn't mean to make the moderators have to clean my posts up but was just trying to help.
D21P-6 steering clutch adjustment I just put my new clutches together and dropped the pack into place. With the freshly rebuilt clutch pack installed, what should the adjustment bolt on the release yoke be adjusted to? Any incite would be greatly appreciated.
screw in all the way in by hand...then torque to 60 ft. lbs....then back out 1-3/4 turns ..run for awhile then put on incline and see if if free rolls with foot off of brake and in neutral....if it does ur good ro go...
You are suppose to measure 121mm = or minus .5mm from center of the machine to the tip of the adjustment bolt. Hope this helps.
D21p-6 Darin, Thanks for the help again. This is 121mm to the inboard point of the adjustment bolt right? Is that with the yoke up against the clutches? What I mean by that is with the yoke full left or full right. Is there a good reference point for the center of the machine that you use or just kind of eyeball it to the center?
Yes against the clutches on the ball part of the bolt. I just went by the middle of the bevel gear top cover. But actually normally all i do is make reference to where the steering clutch cylinder is going to contact the slip yoke and where the cylinder will be when just mounted. You can see where the housing sat with the rust line and you can see where the cylinder where basically see too. But it's best probably to just go by the book references.
Ok... I got my bearings and seals (have had them for a while... just getting to installing them)... This is for the brake arm.. (goes from the outside of the housing to the inside of the housing)... My problem... I got a bit carried away a few weeks ago when I removed it... (had too much confidence in my ability to remember exactly the orientation of the inside lever in relation to the outside lever on the shaft)... When I took it off, I made a mental note of how the inside mechanism was oriented to the outside mechanism... however, now I have forgot. I could probably figure this out from common sense, but I am hoping someone can give me the proper way to put this back together on the splines of the shaft so that they are oriented correctly. I fear that my description above may not be readable enough to understand... but I figure those that have done this will understand my dillema... if not, I will post some pictures. Thannks in advance....
Thanks Darin. Darin, Just got everything back together earlier today and it works like a champ. You have been very helpful and expeditious with all of your tips. Hope not to need to many pointers in the future, but it is good to know someone like you is around.
Ms good for you ! I am located n North MS and bought about 10 acres. I have been clearing it with my D21A6 and haven't had to many problems. I repaird the steering clutch, changed all the fluids greased all the fittings and running the heck out of it. It seems to be a reliable cheap to operate dozer. Good Luck!
Oh man sorry for the delay in my reply. I just got a picture of one I have apart and hope this helps.
Komatsu D85E Dozer looking for torque converter seal Kit Hello every body, I like this forum it looks like a place where we can find lots of answers. I'm looking for this parts for a Komatsu Dozer. So far no luck with several US parts vendors including Komatsu,road machinery etc. I need to do a complete overhaul on this dozer but also replace seal kits for the Torque converter and for for the torque flow transsmission. Are there any vendors in the USA or any other cpuntry where I can get parts for this Dozer? Any help will be much appreciated. 1983 Komatsu D85E-12 Machine serial #22230 Engine SN 26134121 Engine type NH220 Engine Model N743-C220 Parts needed 1- Torque Converter seal Kit Serial # K4228 ( not sure if this is the part #) Model # TC19A3 2- Torque Flow Transmission seal kit Serial# 253P-455 Model# 154-15-11004 ( I believe this is the part #) Thanks for your help
R Leo you are the man! That diagram you posted in 12/ 23 07 was awesome. It still didn;t show the little actuator on the rght side of the engine that has 5 wires and a caable going to the fuel shutoff valve I an only make it work manually, but now at least I have a diagream to test a few other things to see if I can get my neighbors machines back safe working order. It is a gear shift and has the levers to pull to turn I can manually make it crank and it willl purr like a kitty. I mostly wanted to say after reading 100's of post you are awesome! And so are the other members here seem to want to help instead of laugh. Usig a Sperry volt meter the most I saw was 3.2 vdc and that was all clutch switch which is n/o works good, I've have 5 heart attacks, new valves and a defib and I would love to see this puppy run again. Any ideas would be appreciated:notworthy
Geezzzzz...... After reading my last post I must have been in a daze. Anyway to update I fixed the electrical problem today. Someone had hooked the B wire to the switch to the center of the 2 batteries. Lol! 12 volts don't work very well with a 24 volt system. So I clean all terminals, move the wire at the batteries to the proper location, use wire ties to secure all the loose wires hanging had to adjust the fuel shutoff cable and anything else that a layman like me could do. Fired it up and checked charging, horn works the cows in the field mooed and I was thinking my neighbor will be so happy that it's running again and no major expenses........ It wouldn't turn either direction just go forward or reverse and pulling either turn lever would stop it and bog the engine.... Soooooo I had to deliver the good news and the bad news to my neighbor.... I was so wanting this to be the last of the problems with this D20p......... I just can't believe it. :Banghead
I'm really glad to see this post also. There are many chemicals that are safe when used properly. I've been in the HVACR industry well over 38 years. We use to be told to look for leaks with a propane torch device that sucked its air thru a rubber hose. If the flame turned green you found a freon leak..... You also found Phosgene just by having a open flame with freon around. It will shut you down very quickly and if you have no escape route that can be had in seconds it will put you down. Forever.
Boy did that last post go to the wrong place
Left Brake Lever orientation Darin, Thanks for the picture, it did help. Your picture appeared to be of the right brake aparatus... so I put it in paint and had it mirror the image (just so I didn't get confused). I am posting the picture of what I come up with as the correct orientation... if someone has a book (or experience) to explain it in more precise technical terms... it would be appreciated... If I use the tightening "slot" as a reference to describe... I have the inner lever rotated 90 degrees relative to the outer lever... I would say I should be within 1 tooth +/- according to your picture... I will give a little bit of time for someone to set me straight... then I am gonna put er in.....
I got it all together.... but what a booger... Now that I have it together can someone tell me if there was an easy way to get the lever and adjusting bolt in their proper places? The "foot" that went against the back of the brake band was really tough
It's a pain in the reat that's for sure. I've tried it by taking the 4 big bolts off the top of the housing and that was ok the first time. second time I tried it that way it kicked my ars so stopped doing it like that. Now I put the rod in place on teh brake drum and make sure teh back side lever is sticking up and put the housing on (without the release cylinder installed) so i can make sure everything is in place and also provides a place to pry and hold things while starting the big nut on the brake band adjuster. Darin
It's a pain in the reat that's for sure. I've tried it by taking the 4 big bolts off the top of the housing and that was ok the first time. second time I tried it that way it kicked my ars so stopped doing it like that. Now I put the rod in place on teh brake drum and make sure teh back side lever is sticking up and put the housing on (without the release cylinder installed) so i can make sure everything is in place and also provides a place to pry and hold things while starting the big nut on the brake band adjuster. Darin
D21p-6 Does anyone know if the fuel cap should have some time of o-ring or gasket inside of it? Mine doesn't and it seems to be a little messy
There is a gasket inside normally.
komatsu d38e-1 Gray Market Machine- runnin hot! This machine has 4500 hrs. I've put 1000 hrs on it. Trani temp has always run hot. I think it would peg the gage if I didn't turn it off. Although, water temp is very consistent. Trani is cooled by engine radiater which has been rodded out. All fluid, filters, and screens have been changed. No visible damage to hydraulic lines. Fan and belt are working properly. Machine operates perfectly, other than this one problem.
I have D21p-6 , i have noticed for some time now the blade does not tilt fully, I see the problem, it looks like the tilt trunnion is worn out, it dropped below it mounting position. It looks like it was never greased. It looks like it is welded in, ( i don't have access to a welder or cutter) it is held in place by a "C" shaped mount bracket with 2 big bolts to the frame, is their a bearing behind the "C" shaped bracket ( kind of like a crank shaft bearing in a motor) that is replaceable ? I would like to fix it, but I am trying to understand what is behind their and if I can fix it with out any type of welding. Thanks
Ok.... I have my machine all back together and running, BUT .... the right clutch is not disengaging completely.... and I know that this is nothing surprising since the dozer has been sitting in the shop for over a month... I ran it around the yard, pulling hard on the brake, most usually it would have broken loose by now if it was just the clutches sticking. Here is my question: Since I had the top of the housing for the right brake off... the slave cylinder for the clutch would have drained all of the oil out no doubt... when I put it back together I am sure that there is some air in the line... However... I don't see any bleeders on the clutch slave cylinder... Anyone know how to bleed it out?
hi I have D21A-6 I need to head torque if you can help thanks
No replaceable bearing behind there but dang that woudl be nice. You can either change the cap with new one or you can shave off some material on the cap so that it makes the joint tighter. OR you can weld more material and then grind off excess. The other half mounted on the c frame you need to put more weld in there too or cut off old and put new one on. Let me know if you need anything. Darin
Dang it. I haven't had trouble with the cylinder after repacking them YET but can't think how you would be able to bleed it because there are no plugs on it. You can pull a plug on the side of the control valve to make sure you have pressure there but get ready for oil if working right? I've had those air lock before and then after oil flew out it ran fine. Keep us posted. When you pull the lever back to steer does the steering cylinder piston on the control valve go in before the brake handle moves to much?
Send me an email by clicking on my link to find me address. I can email you the pages for specs and tightening order.
Hello, I have a Komatsu D21p-6, with 6 way blade. I am looking to rebuild the left and right hydraulic angle cylinders, my parts book is apparently missing a few pages for the section on the 6 way blade. can anyone provide me with or post a page or 2 of the parts for the 6 way blade area. Thanks
Email sent with part breakdown. Darin
D21P-6 track adjustment I am having a little trouble understanding the manual on track adjustment and I just want to make sure I get it right. The book gives a tolerance of 20-30 mm. Where is this measured from? I just want to make sure that my tracks are adjusted correctly. I know to pump grease in at the fitting mid span just above rollers, but how much? Are they self adjusting and I just pump away with grease? These are a little different than the giant piece of all thread used for adjusting the tracks on my ancient 955 CAT.:dizzy
Take a straight edge and lay it on the top roller to the front idler. measure between the straight edge and the top of the grouser bar. Pump grease until you get that distance right. if you pump away you will over tighten unless your tension seal is bad then it will just pump away and go by the piston seals. Hope this helps. Darin
D21p-6 engine temp Hello, I am new to this internet forum thing so if this post lands where it should I apoligize. I have a D21P-6 Dozer I am changing the green/white temp guage to a scale guage. Does anyone know the normal engine operating temp range for this dozer. Thanks in advance.
Can someone help me find I feel like I'm fighting a loosing battle. My neighbor (The greatest neighbor in the world) has a D20P-7. I recently completed his wiring problems and it cranks and runs fine now (that is if you just want to go staight). It won't turn. I pulled his hydraulic steering pump and found the splined shaft was snapped off. I opened it up and found one gear section that looked like some grit had ground both sides of the gear. Only one gear is whats so strange. Anyway it probably locked up and snapped the shaft. Can someone help me find a new or good used pump? Again it's a D20P-7 ..Ser#78120. Thanks in advance! :deadhorse
Hey guys, Sorry I didn't get that parts breakdown for you (been really busy around here) but looks like you found what the problem is yourself. That pump is available from Komatsu I think becaues it's still listed in their parts system but dang is that expensive. Did you get any numbers or details off the pump's tag? Talk to you again. Darin
Yeah I found the problem and got one quote on a new one. After hearing the price I thought to myself that I didn't want to buy the Komastu Co. just the pump. There's no way that little pump is worth that kind of money. I was waiting for your email but after a while I thought you forgot so I set out on my own. At the present it's at a machine shop to see if they can rebuild it without buying the company. Still waiting on the quote.
Clearing land? tips? I have been doing a bit of clearing myself on my ten acres in northern Mississippi. The seat belt I have learned is a must and I don't have one. Bumped my head a couple of times and got jolted around pretty good. The little D21A6 is a little power house. but I was wondering if you developed any means of getting the small branches up off the ground. I am looking into buying a rake for the blade. Any tips on how you are cleaning things up? When I try to get down for the small stuff I am still pushing to much dirt and this doesn't burn welll.
Need Traction I need to get more traction. I can tell my D21 has more push than I can get to the ground. I'll try to post a picture to show what I think my problem is. The flat plates on the track are approx 1 inch. My son and a friend on his suggested I weld some 1 inch key stock to the flat plates. Any comments on that idea or other options would be appreciated.
The grouser stock (key stock) should have been welded standing up and not flat like that. Need to figure how much time and money is spent doing it this way or just buying new shoes for you machine. Contact me if you need. Darin
I just purchased a D20 dozer & wanted to run the serial number to find out if it would tell the year and stuff of the dozer, does anyone know where I can do that at? Thanks
right here.. whats the serial number and i'll look it up.
Re:Grouser Relugging Hi Danny B, You could use re-o-bar instead of key way bar, as the concreters re-o-bar is the same steel martrial, but at a much cheeper cost in Austustalia than key way bar, just an idear for you. And is easy to buy in long lengths & cut to size also welding, as it is round so you can get good penatration when welding, as if you were to use the Keywar bar you would have to grind an edge on both side to get a good weld, You probly need to weld the keyway bar/re-o-bar on a bit sooner thou. Cheers Wheelybin.
"Frozen" fill plug in Final Drive 5-19-10, Need some good ideas how to free up a frozen fill plug in the final drive of my Ko D20-7. So far I've tried a 1/2 "breaker" bar and hammer. I tried hitting it direct a little with a hammer but was unsure if the casting is cast iron, I may crack it with hammering if it is. Anybody know how much heat these will take without damage or fire, how much hammering and what is the case made out of. The plug is anodised steel that I can see by its color. All the other plugs on this machine have loosen right up. The last time this happened to me was on a "brush blade" and the dealer said to use my Acy. torch but I didn't because I was afraid it would get too hot and explode. Tks.
Thanks for starting this thread. I hope it will be helpful to many people that are searching for this topic. Keep posting guys and keep this forum a great place to learn things.
Re: Welding "T" bar stock. Welding is a time consuming and expensive job not to mention you'd be bending over breathing in that wonderful welding fume, for hours on end. From the worn out looks of your grousers and the good condition of the sprocket I would replace them including new nuts and bolts. Per the good condition of the rest of the track chain. Re-bar is too soft and would just wear out or tear off in quick time, and really wouldn't provide any more traction, welding them on would just be wasted time and expense. I once was going to change my "P" grouser out to the standard shoes and found I would need 6 bolts kits and 74 shoes for both tracks for around $1650, from Komatsu at 2006 prices. I later found out that in my area with wet winters and muddy soft ground the "swamp" grouser works best, so never followed through. Just my thoughts.
Dav, I recently took out the drain plugs on my Mitsy BS3F ..Finals & trans plugs. One of the trans plugs was TIGHT!I couldn't believe how tight it was. I just put a 4ft long pipe over the 3/4 drive handle,& all was well. All my plugs were 3/4 drive.Those plugs are made of good stuff. I wonder if you can weld a nut on the top of your plug,& put a big wrench on it...? Good luck..Jim
I've had them so tight that they end up stripping the plug with a big ole cheater bar so then i had to use the old hammer and chisel method. I've heard some customers that have used heat but I just never tried it. I guess I'm chicken. I think with the hammer and chisel you end up loosening the rusted plug with the blows and then she moves free. Keep us posted on the trick you use. Darin
"Frozen" fill plug in Final Drive Success Re. "Frozen" fill plug in Final drive. I got them free here's how. I used a hammer and give ea plug some baby taps, I didn't want to break the casting. Then I put a 1/2" breaker bar in and hammered the bar near the plug end five-six good ones, I didn't want to bend or break my breaker bar so I didn't over do the hammering, nor did I use a "cheater" for the same reason. Then I applied propane heat to the casting for about five min, but not enough to burn the paint. I waited 5-10min until the heat soaked in. More breaker bar hammering than I used my biggest 3/4" air impact wrench with a 1/2" adapter for a one compressor cycle. I did this complete process three times and soon the 3/4" spun it free, sudden like. The plugs have a fine thread and a large rubber "O" ring much like an oil filter. I suspect the "O" ring caused most of the problem because the thread was like brand new. Just like an oil filter seal it must be oiled before installing and if you don't remove an oil filter for a long while the rubber "welds" itself to the metal even if you do oil it. I think the heat softened it some. The oil itself was like brand new, I think the dealer told be he had check all oil's and it was good to go. Could be that when they ship these from Japan they must drain all oil and fuel. But whom ever installed the plug last maybe didn't grease the rubber, as I've only owned it for four years, and never checked it. I would say now that all these plugs should be loosened and checked at least every oil change, might prevent "Frozen" plug.
Re eselarator Hi Jim, Have tryed to ring you a few time to know luck (just the anwer machine), will try and ring you tomorrow on my way down from orange. Cheers Wheelybin.
I need some help, I threw my right track and now I can't get it back on. I tried to compress the yoke rod, but it won't go in. I have put the left track on previously so I know how it should go. Thanks in advance!
Make sure that there is no mud or in my case one time concrete holding the fork stuck in place. As soon as we got the material off the track frame it was then able to push in. Darin
Hello, I'm new to this forum. I'm trying to locate an owner's manual for my dad for a Hitachi DX 40 Dozer that he recently purchased. (He's 80 and doesn't use the internet.) If you have a manual or CD that you're willing to share, he would be interested in purchasing a copy. Any leads are greatly appreciated. Thanks!
I seen to have a more pressing problem than the grousers on my D21. I am having a fuel problem. I don't know if it is rain getting in my tank some how, or some kind of contaminate in the tank breaking down my diesel. Twice I have had the engine to quit. Once a couple of weeks ago. The fuel smelled like old fuel. It did have some water in it when I drained the tank. Replaced the filter. Put in fresh fuel and all was well. Used the D21 for a few hours. Let it set a couple of weeks down in the pasture where I was using it. Went back yesterday to do some more after a couple of rainstorms. Ran good for an hour or two then started missing then died. Today I drained the tank again. Again the fuel smelled like old fuel or varnish. It was slightly cloudy. But didn't get clear water our of drain first. So I have three questions. One - Is there some way I my be getting water in the tank? Two - Is it possible there is some contaminate or bacteria that is ruining my fuel? Three - What is the best way to completely flush out the tank? Thanks much for any help. :beatsme
Komatsu D21A-5 glow plugs Hello, I'm new to this site and have done some searches but can't seem to find any info about the glow plugs in my lil dozer. I am wondering if anyone has a part number for these other than going to the dealer? The dealer quoted my $ 178.00 per plug. I guess I should call them the stealer? lol Any info would be appreciated? Thanks......G
New and not sure if I'm making this entry correctly. I have purchased a D21A-5 and I am trying to free up on of the track adjusters. I have read that they get rusty and will stick. I have tried injecting grease, but did not go. I have removed the fill valve/zirk and grease will pass through the zirk, but the yoke will not move. I have tried pulling on the idler to pull the yoke out, but no good there. I am afraid to open the zirk and try to retract the adjuster for fear I wont get it to expand to were I started. I have even spayed wd40 and a penetrating oil along the yoke shaft. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks and have a safe Memorial Day weekend.
Hi, I might be able to help you...& put you in touch with other owners. email me on : [email protected] Jim
it has to come out before it will go in.....i a have made a hose to use my porta power it's messy ut it works....then clean up rod and reseal...
I just bought a d21 p5 and it runs really good but I think I need new undercarriage. I live in Orting Wa. is there anywhere I can get stuff used around here? or at a good price.
Hotroddz, there are several places outside the area with decent prices on undercarriage parts, but I don't know of anything in our area. If you find a local supplier let me know as I too would be interested in undercarriage parts in the not to distant future. How much did you give for your d21a-5 and did you get it locally.
Does anybody know what the torque spec for the nylock nut that is on the end of the piston rod for the blade lift cylinder might be. I need a shop service manual if anybody sales them. Thanks
D20A-6 Seat Replacement I scored a great deal off eBay. I got the 450 dollar seat that I've been wanting for 249. :drinkup First choice seat from northern tool My eBay deal It arrived quickly so I wasted no time getting the old one out and the new one in. The old seat was a featherweight. The new seat weights like 80 pounds It just barely fit. I think it's got about 1/4" clearance on each side. Had to make a small bracket, drill and tap to relocate the retractable cartridge for the seat belt so it would fit the Dozer. But it all fits and is super comfortable. The back rest is a few inches taller than the original with an adjustable angle. The gas shock (see pics) absorbs all the jolts the Dozer over rocks can deliver. It has 4+ inches of suspension travel and is adjustable for the the riders weight. I'm really pleased with it and glad I held out for a quality suspension seat at a reasonable price. Enjoy..... Larry View attachment 64848
Radiator Flush D21A6 Can anyone enlighten me from their experience on flushing the radiator. My machine seems to be running a little warm with the summer coming upon us in the South. It is hot as hell! Anybody got any pointers on how to keep them cool. I thought about going to a new fan, replacing the belt for better fan pulling, changing and flushing the cooling etc.Thanks for the information.
I pressure washed out the radiator on my Mitsubishi BS3F and washed the inside what I could reach, then flushed the coolant system for what seemed like hours till the water ran clear. I had to pull off the skid pan, and opened up a drain **** (port) on the radiator as well as one on the heat exchanger, before I could get it cleared up. Filled it back up with antifreese and it seems better. Some here say they run them with water only in Japan and they rust internally. Based on what I see, that is probably true. I have rust scum building up in the new coolant again, but it is not bad yet. I'll flush it one more time this fall and put new coolant in it again. Bubbagoat
Thank you Darin I have a homade rake on the front of my D21p-6. It torked the blade and broke the crane, (yoke that holds the blade). Darin suggested it was so bad I should replace it. I could not find one that was economically feasible to replace it. I took it to Kents welding shop down the road and they cut it open, threw away all the bent and dammaged parts, strighted the front pivot point, and rebuilt the crane with 1/2 in steel plate. After testing it for a couple of weeks, i went by today and thanked them for a job well done. Expensive but well done. $1300. Darin, Thank you for your help and suggestions. G
I'm trying to figure out why my D20s wont move. it blew a hyrdo cylinder that i just got rebuilt and notice it seemed to stop rolling when the fluid went low. but not that thy hydrolics are fixed it one nudges back and forth some. Will go in gear but not moving. Anyone have ideas i might try? thanks
Komatsu d20s track loader D20s track loader while putting a load on the motor made odd sound and lost power. Won’t hold and idle and keeps stalling. Also wont throttle up the motor. Would just a clogged fuel filter do this?
Hello Darren, Yes try cleaning the banjo bolt on the bottom of the lift pump. That is the little pump that you pump by hand so you can bleed the fuel system when drained. Also at that time change the fuel filter. When cleanign the banjo bolt you will have to crimp the fuel supply line so your tank doesn't drain. Good luck So I take it you are now able to move the D20S around?
d20s will run but wont roll. was moving when you toggled the track handels back and forth and finally started moving but once i shut it down it wont roll any further.
yes I got it started. Thanks.. the whole fuel system was full of CRAP!! holy cow. put it under pressure and i couldnt believe what came out of the lines!!! had to remove the fuel tank to continue cleaning everything out. bottomline were running but NOT rolling..... i'm so frustrated with this thing..
Hi Prowler, How did you do with the track adjusters? Frank
Hello Forum People, I'd like to post this again.........Email me for pictures [email protected] Diesel engine, 6 way blade, 1700 hours, 80% undercarriage, all fluids recently changed, new track adjusters, shuttle shift, Runs Great Looks Great !!! Always stored inside, Never used commercially, Always Babied !!! If you want a Needs-Nothing Dozer to scoot around with or just visit the relatives with, work in the yard or just show off with, or if your a contractor that needs a good running inexpensive Dozer, THIS IS IT !!!!!!!!!!! Thanks, Frank
Frank, I have tried everything I could think of to free the adjuster, except the porta power welded directly on the adjuster valve idea. I have decide it will be a good winter project and I want to get some use out of the machine before fixing something else. I will take it easy on the machine until the adjuster is fixed, the track slack is not too bad yet. Maybe working the machine will help brake the adjuster loose, if I'm lucky. I need to make sure I have a source for a new track adjuster cylinder in case it decides to blow out from the pressure from the porta power.
Mitsubishi S4E -2 Part required Hi Fellas, Looking to buy a HEAD for a Mitsubishi S4E/S4E-2 engine. My client has a Mitsy WS400 Loader,& I think it runs the S4E or S4E-2 engine. Also need 4 glow plugs for the S4E engine ....# 30666-51301. Thanks..Jim (Australia).
Replacement heads and plugs Call Wynn @ 903-865-1220 At East Tex Imports, He will have the plugs for sure and probably will have a head. Fred
Thanks Fred, I'll give them a try. Any other contacts are appreciated. Jim
I have a d21 a-5 and I cant get a clear answer on what to put in the hydraulic tank. I just rebuilt both lift cyl.and would like to start with fresh fluid. Two dealers have told me two different oils. both of which I cant find here. Can I use regular 15w-40 rotilla,or, hydraulic fluid ? Also, one gave me a part # for the hyd.filter that worked out to be the same filter as the oil filter !!! Is this right. Thanks to all for the help, Sam Evans. "TenAlaSippi" Pickwick lake
help newbie hi all i have a d20p-7 just drained fluid out of second drain access port toward rear of dozer. was unsure of location of screen/filter to clean.after reading forum i believe it takes 30 wt would fill location be @ dipstick. any one ever find a shop manual for this model that`s not over 600$?also i drove dozer up short driveway with brake on :Banghead and now have no brakes can u tighten brake on this unit ?
fluids specs http://berryhillfarm.us/Dozer/scan0006.jpg
not sure on the 21, I have a 31 and it calls for 10w in the hydraulic tank.....I have been using hydraulic fluid. I let someone borrow it awhile back and they had put the hydraulic fluid in it, they ran it quite awhile with no problems and I just keep using the hydraulic fluid now
Guess I need to drain it out , did a little searching, some say it's fine and others: OIL RECOMMENDATIONS FOR KOMATSU PRODUCTS FOR NORMAL AMBIENT CONDITIONS Previously, the selection of the correct lubricant to use in Komatsu products was very simple as, with very few exceptions, either a SAE 10W or a SAE 30 weight engine oils were used in all compartments. There were a few exceptions, like the one in the fine print of the Operation and Maintenance Manual that recommended the use of Tractor Hydraulic Fluid in wheel loader axles instead of engine oil, but generally it was either SAE10W or SAE 30 engine oil. However, recent developments in friction materials that allow more compact clutch designs, and the creation of engine oils that are so slippery they prevent the positive engagement of transmission clutch packs have created the need for specialized lubricants and hydraulic fluid. Additionally, the apparent autonomy of the KAIC Parts Department in promoting “branded” oil has, to a certain degree, confused the situation. Thus, the purpose of this memorandum is to provide clear information on the selection of oils that accurately reflect Komatsu’s recommendations as expressed or discussed in the following: * Applicable Operation and Maintenance Manuals. * P&SN A930243 of 12/09/1993. Hydraulic Oil Selection WA700-1, WA800-1. * Installation Manual (P&SN) BA00013 of 11/01/2000. Transmission Oil. * Installation Manual (P&SN) BT02024A of 08/05/2002. WA Axle Oil. * P&SN AR01050 of 11/30/2001. Friction Modifiers in WB140-2, WB150-2 axles. * Ohkawa, S., Konishi, A., Hatano, H. and Voss, D. “Pump Failures in Various Type Hydraulic Fluids” Hydraulic Failure Analysis: Fluids, Components, and System Effects ASTM STP 1339, G.E. Totten, D.K. Wills, and D. Feldmann, Eds., American Society for Testing and Materials. Deals with the effects of different types of hydraulic fluids on a Komatsu HPV35+35 piston pump. * Komatsu Parts Policy Letter (PPL) 649 of November 15, 2002. * P&SN AR00051 of 11/27/2000. ENGINE OILS For operation in temperatures above +50F, the best choice of oil would be SAE15W-40. As a minimum, this oil must meet API specification CD, CD/SF. The currently effective CF-4 is better, the 1998 CH-4 specification is better yet, but the just released CI-4 is the best yet. CI-4 will be required for the new generation engines that use very low sulfur fuels and exhaust gas recirculation or EGR. Consult the Operation and Maintenance Manual for recommendations below +50F. TRANSMISSION OILS * Komatsu Bulldozers, Wheel Loaders, Trucks and Graders with planetary transmissions: o SAE30 engine oil may be used if it meets the older API CD Specification. According to P&SN BA00013, do not use oils meeting the new CF-4, CG-4, or subsequent specifications in this series. They are too slippery and failures may result. o Specially formulated power train oils may be used. These are identified by Komatsu as TO10, TO30 and TO50. The Komatsu America product equivalent to SAE 30 CD engine oil is Heavy Duty Trans Fluid 30, which has been, renamed Power Train Oil TO. * Komatsu Bulldozers Such as D32E-1A, D32P-1A, D38E-1A, D39E-1A, D39P-1A, and –3 Wheel Loaders with countershaft transmissions: o Selecting the correct oil for these transmissions can be particularly confusing as the O&M Manuals for these tractors direct the use of SAE10W Heavy Duty Transmission Fluid (HDTF), but Parts Policy Letter (PPL) 649 of November 15th, 2002 states that HDTF has been renamed Powertrain Oil TO. PPL 649 further states that it will replace API CD engine oils previously recommended in Komatsu powershift transmissions. o Installation Manual (P&SN) BA00013 specifically deals with the new Komatsu transmission oil specifications and makes the following points: + Do not use CF-4, CG-4, or subsequent specifications engine oils in Komatsu transmissions (they are too slippery). + TO10, TO30, and TO50 transmission oils are the recommended replacement for SAE10W, 30 and 50 weight CD engine oils. + The formulation of these Komatsu branded TO oils is so close to the Allison C4 or Caterpillar TO-4 specification that the use of oils meeting these specifications won’t hurt anything. * Komatsu –1 Wheel Loaders with countershaft transmissions: o Same as above, but use the SAE30 weight grade. KOMATSU WHEEL LOADERS AND GALION DERIVED KOMATSU GRADER AXLES AND BRAKES The correct lubricant to prevent brake chatter is what Komatsu refers to as HTF or Hydraulic Trans Fluid. The Komatsu part number is 1400138H2. It is generally known in the industry as a Tractor Hydraulic Fluid or THF, and is specially formulated to enhance the smooth operation of wet brakes. Other similar products are Chevron 1000 THF (Previously Chevron Tractor Hydraulic Fluid.) and Mobilfuid 424. P&SN/Installation Manual BT02024A of August 5, 2002 concerns Axle Oils for Wheel Loaders. If one of the previously recommended oils is not available, an alternate oil for these applications is SAE 30 weight CD engine oil that has been treated with not more that three percent (3%) by volume Friction Modifier 1400117H91. It is important that the 3% mix ratio not be exceeded, as the effectiveness of the brakes will be reduced. (It is understood that if the brakes are accidentally “overdosed” with Friction Modifier, brake operation will usually return to normal after the mixture has been reduced to 3% or less in 50 to 100 hours of operation. This occurs because Friction Modifier is a “sacrificial surface treatment” that wears off.) Please P&SN AR01050 of November 30, 2001 for WB applications. KOMATSU HYDRAULIC SYSTEMS There has been a lot of discussion on this subject, but as of this date, the only product recommended by Komatsu for hydraulic system use is SAE10W engine oil that meets API specification CD (or later specification in this series) or MIL-L-2104. At this time, the use of AW series hydraulic oils, such as AW46 are not recommended. P&SN AR00051 of 11/27/2000 discusses different types of biodegradable hydraulic oils and makes recommendations for their use in Utility Models. It should be noted that this P&SN does not address the larger construction or mining machines. If it is there is a need to use biodegradable oils in a construction or mining machine, it is suggested that the application be discussed with the KAIC District Service Manager, and if needed, a SEST request be filed. SUMMARY If you are confused or in doubt about what oils to use in Komatsu Products, you won’t go too far wrong with the following during ambient conditions that are generally encountered in our service territory: * Engines 15W-40 that at least meets API specification CD. API specifications CF-4, CH-4, or CI-4 are better yet. * Planetary Transmissions in Tractors or Wheel Loaders SAE30 API specification CD or TO oil such as Komatsu Heavy Duty Transmission Fluid (HDTF) TO30 or CAT TO-4. Do not use a CF-4, CG-4, or CI-4 specification oil. Do not use HTF or Hydraulic Trans Fluid. * Counter Shaft Transmissions in WA-1 Wheel Loaders Same as above. * Counter Shaft Transmissions in Small Komatsu Bull Dozers & –3 Wheel Loaders SAE10W API specification CD or TO oil such as Komatsu Heavy Duty Transmission Fluid (HDTF) TO10 or CAT TO-4. Do not use a CF-4, CG-4, or CI-4 specification oil. Do not use HTF or Hydraulic Trans Fluid. * Wheel Loader Axles with Wet Brakes & Grader Differentials with Wet Brakes Komatsu HTF or Hydraulic Trans Fluid or the industry standard Tractor Hydraulic Fluid (THF) like Chevron 1000 THF or Mobilfluid 424. * Hydraulic Systems SAE 10W engine oil. Hopefully the information contained in this memo will be helpful and aid in the use of the correct lubricants. It is being distributed first by e-mail and then by mail. Other reference material will be included with the mail distribution. If you have any questions or comments about this, please contact me at the Kent branch (253) 872-3500 or by e-mail. LINKS TO ADDITIONAL INFORMATION ON LUBRICANTS * http://www.castrolhdl.com OEM for KAIC branded lubricants. * http://www.chevron.com/prodserv/nafl/ Information on Chevron lubricants. * http://www.mobil.com Information on Mobil lubricants. * http://www.76lubricants.com Information on Unocal 76 lubricants. * http://www.lubrizol.com Makes the additive package for most major oil companies. * http://www.api.org The latest API specifications. * http://www.diveweb.com/uw/archives/arch/024.08.shtml Article on biodegradable oils.
Darinray could you help me with the year model of my d21 p-6..serial # is 70791...any help is greatly appreciated...
1992 according to my book.
I had a seal blow on one of my blade angle cylinders today, and one of my lift cylinders has a leaking seal. Where is the best place to find the seals and is this something I can do myself without any special tooling? I've never rebuilt any cylinders before, and advice?
Can anyone please tell me what the bearing number is for a final drive on a D20P5 is. I have called everywhere and nobody can tell me. Mine is wore off so I can't read them.:Banghead
Get the exact part numbers from Komatsu (Continental Equipment here in Dallas south of town on IH 45). Continental will print you out an exploded parts diagram and parts list for each component you ask about if you go in person. Don't buy it there. Then call H&D Distributors in Dallas. (3236 Irving BLVD in the white pages). It's better if you go in person with your old parts in hand so they can match stuff exactly. They will match up all your seals and they told me although I haven't tried yet that they have kits for all the Komatsu cylinders. Their prices are a fraction of OEM and they are very knowledgeable and they have a whole universe of O Rings, hydraulic seals ETC. Most of the jobber hydraulic cylinder and pump repair shops in town have will call bins of their own on the wall so I guess if it’s good enough for them it’s good enough for me. Their location is handy as well because there is a great bearing and seal place right across the street, which also carries hydraulic hoses etc., and rotational seals and stuff. I was working on a 68 Ford Backhoe and rebuilt the power steering pump and power assist cylinder for pennies on the dollar compared to OEM. (New Holland). Make sure all your parts are spotlessly clean or they will give you the evil eye. Also make sure everything is completely disassembled because when it's your turn they won't wait for you to take it apart there. They have a $10 dollar minimum purchase which can be a little frustrating if all you need is one ¼ inch o-ring but nevertheless they are a terrific resource. I have read instructions here on this site concerning disassembling your cylinder right on the machine. One thing in particular makes sense. Use the OEM connection at each end to hold your part while you loosen the fasteners. You may be talking several hundred FTLBS of applied torque to break them loose. My shop vise won’t stand that kind of twist. Good luck John
Control Valve leak I have a d20 that is leaking hydraulic oil out of the top of the blade control valve (the up / down / tilt) and it's getting to the point it is hard to feed. It looks like an O ring should fix it, but I can't get the rod(?) out of the valve body. Does anyone have any suggestions?:beatsme
I have a source for those.. contact this guy at [email protected]
What bearing are you talking about? Do you have a part number from Komatsu? Darin
What machine do you have? D20 dash what? There are seals that will need replacing to fix the problem and am not real sure why you can't get the spool out of the valve body. Did you take the bottom cups off and remove these pieces? By rights you don't need to take the spool out of the body to change the lower and upper seals... you just need to remove the linkages on top and disconnect the spring below. Darin
It is a d20-6. I've taken the linkage and a cap type thing loose from the top. I haven't taken anything off of the bottom. What is the spool? Is that the piece that connects to the lever? How to get the spring out?
The one right behind the sprocket. The part number one place gave me is 06030-22215. I assume this is the part number, I told them I couldn't read mine off of the part and I don't have a manual to it. The bearing company I called said they could cross refference if I could get the number off the bearing.
The spool is the piece that goes through the valve body regulating the flow to the appropriate circuit. You need to IF changing the bottom seals remove the bottom cap and then remove the bolt holding the spring to the spool. Feel free to contact me and I can walk you through the process and get you the copy of teh parts book and or service manual. Darin
Oh I see. Yeah that one is expensive but I guess what isn't. Sorry to say I don't have the number off that one. With the cost of these final drives and you want to be sure you get teh exact replacement brg sometimes is easiest to just order it from the dealer (Komatsu). If you find out a replacement one do share here. Good luck Darin
Thanks Darin. You're great to help like you do! :thumbsup
K5Cruz I saw you are in OK. If you are closer to Tulsa than Dallas, I would recommend Crown Products in Tulsa. My brother in law works for Cat in Tulsa, he told me about them a couple of years ago. We have saved a chunk of money with these guys. Fixed a cylinder for a John Deere baler about a week ago for $5.35. As the other guys, you have to disassemble and clean up the parts. They will measure and find parts, and will usually put parts on cylinder for you. I have only had one they could not fix. Odd parts on Ford tractor.
Hi gps blades, Southern Equipment in Brisbane have a few D20 / D21 dozers with rippers that they source from O/S (china I think) they don't sell them, they only attache to their own 2nd hand dozers but they are really good and work on the blade control lever with a switch through an electronic hdy valve. Worth a look then maybe you can fabricate your own
Hey sethc, I have parts books on cd's for all these little komatsu dozers. But thr center section in the rear is 30w oil. It is lube oil for the bevel and ring gear. You can adjust the brakes. In back there are little covers on back of steer clutch covers with 2 bolts in each. Remove these covers and tighten the adjuster. Then back it off about 13 notches. The brake pedal shouls be about 3 inches from floor when pressed.
Hi I am located in Queensland Australia and need to source repair, part and operator manuals for my D21PL-7E, can you help? also I have to say what a great help you are to all the guys on this thread, I have read all the posts and gained a lot of knowlege just reading the posts, well done Richard
Hello Richard, Yes I have those manuals so contact me through my link below so we can talk more. Darin
Hi Darin Ok, will do, thank you for your prompt reply Richard
Have a komatsu D21 p-7 .Wont steer going one way, friend of mine tried to adjust linkage under floor boards. Called komatsu they said he shouldnt have touched linkage . Want to readjust steering brake and readjust linkage back to where it should be. Any thoughts would be appreciated Thanks
transmision so my d20p was working great then disaster... stuck in nuetral no way to find gears any one have this problem and what it take to fix?
If it was done recently can you see any signs on on threads as to where they were? If not contact me and I can email the specs on the measurements. Darin
What exactly happen? Was it all of a sudden or gradual? Are gears just grinding? Kinda up in the air right now so need more info. Darin
Hi Darin I sent you a couple of e-mails , a week ago but no reply did you get them OK?? re the manuals on the D21PL-7E Regards Richard
Rutro.... Nope didn't get one from you. What email address did you send it to? Darin
all of the sudden no noise or grinding i was just going from forward to reverse .wont shift into any gear cant even get a grind. i am locked in nuetral the shift lever has side to side play but wont go forward or back to engage any gears..
Hi Darin I sent them to [email protected] , will I try the other address on your web site Regards Richard
i am interested in two machines d206ag has rubber tracks clutch 3 fw 2 rev tracks are new only thing got me worried is drive steering cluthes being dry and how reliable are they am i going to get some time out of unit has 1900 hr clutches just done ,how long do they normally last before screwing up.the second machine d21a6 steel tracks chain that goes around sprockets are worn on one side some bushing around pin,are the tracks and chain under expensive ,also are steering clutches wet or dre both are around same price 10000 what one would you choose .thanks
Sounds like you will need to open the top of the tranny up where the shifting lever is and see what in the world happen. Was there a time where things were forced trying to get into gear? Just wondering. Keep us posted.
Trany Top- Can I get suggestions if this looks normal? -Thanks
Here is another photo-
Looks can be deceiving. Rust doesn't look good and you need to check how freely your slides are working. Will they all line up in the detents?
Try putting a pry bar on right fork to line it up, not so hard as to bend or brake fork. If it does not move, interlock could be seized,bent fork, bent gear teeth from partial engagment, etc ( interlock, you should not be able to shift more than 1 fork at a time, usually balls and springs limit this).
tranny alignment thanks guys i lined them up and put back in shift lever and success i can shift again ran it for 2 hours no problems .time to change tranny oil and see what that looks like.darin u have the gasket for shifter? d20p-7
Glad it worked out for ya.. I don't hvae that gasket but call komatsu and they will get it for you I'm sure.. .OR put rtv gasket maker on it. Darin
I have a D21P-6 and I am looking for the part number and availability of a few things. One is the clutch pedal return spring. It is mounted at the end of the clutch cable and is secured to the side of the transmission. This is the spring that gives your clutch pedal its springy feel. The other one is a rubber bushing/elastomeric that is located at the end of the left angle blade cylinder. Right where the tilt cylinder and the angle cylinder mount there is a rubber bushing on the top and bottom of each cylinder end to prevent metal to metal contact. It appears that all the cylinders have this where they attach to the blade. Any help is appreciatied
napa filter finder great tool for finding filters http://www.napafilters.com/filterlo...4&TempSubMake=669&TempModel=36173&TempEngine=
what your serial # i have a book for 75001 and up
D21p-6 Seth, My s/n is 67806. thanks for checking
Bolt size I have a D20-6, sn 60358. Does anyone know what size the bolts are that hold the collar around the main blade ball? A guy at one place puts a 24mm nut on it and says "it's a 24 mm". A guy at another place pulls caliper type thing out of his pocket and says "it's a 22 mm". I'm wondering "what's 2 mm among friends". Thanks Ronnie
2mm isn't much difference. Just playing... According to the part number it is 24mm X 90mm long
113-43-11291 changed to 113-43-11294 spring.. 104-72-21990 rubber bushing
Thanks Darin!!
tranny metal at change oil Any one have an opinion on fine metal being on tranny plug some buildup was there it was really fine and some small chards is this normal? There was some when i changed my trans oil.
1st dip stick under pettals clutch 10 30 motor oil 2nd back bevel gear assembly 10 30 motor oil final drives at each wheel 10 30 took around 11 gal oil engine used royal purple 15w 40
tracks lay straight edge on top measure sag grease fitting under cover pumps up pushing front wheel foward reg grease gun
Komatsu D31P I have Komatsu D31P serial no. 28918 engine model 4D105-3. Can someone tell me the horse power.
i have a d31p dont know the year pull levers for steering anyway below my seat is a compartment with 3 dipsticks right left center can u help me what type of fluid do i use in these areas
don't quote me on this, don't have the maintenance book with me I think they are 30w oil wait for somebody else to chime in
65 I believe
I was having fuel problems. Have gotten to the age that fingers are all thumbs sometimes. Lost small black rubber part that sets on spring. Working in the woods and fell between dozer and track. Looked several times, no luck. I think it is part of the fuel pump that is mounted on side of injector pump. Its my guess that it is a backflow preventer. Is that correct? Can get D21 to fire up for few seconds only. Please educate me on this. Thanks.
From memory the only rubber or plastic parts are the rubber seal rings on all the banjo bolts or the plastic valve on that has a spring on the fuel priming pump itself. Hope this helps.
Yes. It must be what you are talking about. It is about the size of a pencil eraser only about twice as long with a larger base on the botton end. If this is left out, would it prevent it from running. I could get it to run for a few seconds, varying from a few sputters to 15 to 20 seconds. Is this unit on the side of the injector with the primer considered the fuel pump also? I have had to replace the fuel filter canister several times due to crud in the tank. Did a little more serious flushing of the tank and added an inline filter in front of reg filter. Could this be causing fuel flow problems? Thanks for any advise.
Not sure if I missed you stating this or not so I'll ask. Did you clean out the banjo fitting on the bottom of the primer (lift) pump which is mounted on teh side of teh injector pump? It is a screen that will clog up on you causing no starts or starts and then stalls. Crack your bleeder screw on the top of the fuel filter to see if you primer pump is actually priming the system. Keep us posted.
The missing part is from the hand priming pump assy. It is the fuel lift pump that the hand priming pump is attatched too. You have Fuel priming > Fuel lift pump > Fuel injection pump. As darinray says you need to check the gauze filter on the inlet hose going into the priming pump. You will need to replace the missing as it helps to maintain the low pressure supply circuit. This should be available to order seperately or as part of the hand priming pump assy.
I had read here where you had talked about the screen. I was looking for it when I lost the part. Are you saying the screen is below the hand operated priming pump? Not where I found the part I lost that was attached to a spring? I have got to get one of those manuals on CD.
It is on the bottom of the hand primer inside the bolt that holds the suction fuel line on the bottom of pump. Pinch off the line between the tank and the fitting so you don't take too big of a fuel shower. Before putting the suction back in I normally blow air back into the tank through this line then reinstall.
Thanks much to both of you for the info. I'll check that out.
Thanks guys. My son and I took apart the banjo bolt that holds the very small plastic screen filter. That little bugger had so much crud in it you could plant potatos. Cleaned it up, but still would not run but a short time after filling the lines and regular canister filter. Pulled doxer forward enough to look under where it had quit. Found the little black part I lost. Found it will not creat fuel pressure with it missing. Ran like a top after putting it back in. Used it about 6 hours this afternoon. Follow up question. The inline filter I installed in between the pump and the canister filter. It is clear plastic so as the day went by we could see it was catching some crud. Then we noticed the element was colapsing. Has anyone else tried this extra filter idea? Thanks again.
Inline filter You can't use that type of pre filter ahead of the pump. BTDT, it will collapse from the suction of the pump. Tried one on my BD G2 and it lasted about 1 day. Just bite the bullet and change your main filters until the crude stops coming from the tank. The other and harder solution is to clean the tank... . I had rather change the filters but it does get a little expensive. Fred
This is my first post, i have been watching for a while. i have aD20p-6 and i have probiems with the engine turning over.I't will not turn over with the key until the charge light comes on. you can leave the switch on for awhile and when the charge light comes on it will start,sometimes it takes 10-15 min. i sure could use some advise, thanks.
Good afternoon everyone, I currently own a 1987 D21E-6, with powershift 3 spd trans, 6 way blade controlled by two levers and it also has lever steering on the dash and a decelerator pedal. Currently the machine has 2,915 hours (assuming hourmeter has always worked!!). The track shoes (12" wide pads) are very near the end of their useful life but the rest of the undercarriage is in excellent shape. It's not the prettiest dozer but it does what is asked of it. I currently have a few issues with it and am seeking some advice. The spool valves for the blade are leaking and most likely running down into the steering case and causing poor steering to the right (right turning brake not very grabby). The engine has a steady blue haze of blow-by while running and I may have a failing injector because it has developed a miss. I am the third owner of this machine and i will sheepishly admit that my inexperience allowed me to overlook some of these things when I found this machine for sale, however it was the only one that was even in my price range. Now the bright spot is the machine started giving me trouble after the big projects on the family property were done, but some remain at my property and I will need this type of machine for the forseeable future. So here's the question: do I keep this machine and possibly dump lots of money into it fixing all the problems that are showing up? Or should I consider facing the facts (losing money trading it since I probably paid too much for it) and trade it for a newer version. I ask because there are several machines reasonably close to my area that are attractively priced with VERY low hours. Are the newer joystick steer and joystick blade machines more or less reliable? Is my older all mechanical dozer a better platform to maintain? I'm intrigiued with a newer machine because I can get one with fewer hours(between 200 and 500 hours) which translates to less time being maintained poorly by someone else. Sorry for the long post and thank you in advance to all who provide honest responses, I'm not looking for pity on my mistakes I just don't want to make another one!!!!!
Ponyexpress, I have a D38E-1 which has the joy sticks for the blade and steering. I highly recommend this set up. It is quite user friendly and productive. I'm not sure what to tell you about when to replace your machine. Maybe you could pay a good mechanic to look at it and give you an estimate to get it fixed. I have found one thing, tractors aren't a great investment unless your tractor is making you lots of money. Yet they are quite satisfying to use.
Need brakes for D20 any leads or expected prices will do labor in house need a parts man.
Is it for the D21P-7? I have those.. Contact me..
No my friends D20 the R side has no more adjustment he called this morning I said id get him some prices. I think ill text him your number.
Stuck clutch After setting up a couple of months my main drive clutch will not disengage. Fluid level and linkage look good. D 20. Steers and runs fine but i have to kill the dozer and shift then restart to change gears. otherwise it will just grind when I try. I would appreciate your help. Nick:beatsme
Not sure if your dozer has this but its a thought. On my Furukawa the drive shaft had a braking device that when you pushed the clutch in it would stop the drive shaft from spinning (thus being able to put into gear). It needed adjustment as it wore down from friction. It was located under the front floor board and has a adjustment rod and spring.
Yeah it has the inertia brake Matt is talking of. Try to adjust that and you should be all set. If the shaft doesn't stop don't even try to find the gear because all that happens is the teeth get wore.
I have adjusted that band and it will pull down the motor but the clutch is still stuck ???? Keep it comming guys , I know you will find the solution. Thanks, Nick
Not good.. Sounds like you need to tear into that one. You need to see whats going on inside unless someone adjusted the linkages on your while it sat. ???
Sounds like disc and pressure plate are stuck together. You could try pulling on something with clutch open, but carefull not to break something.
darinray, I hope these darned cows have not started working on my equiptment !!!! Iron@dirt, I kind of had the same thought . I am going to take a 5' run at a very large tree with the clutch pedal depressed . I will check for dead limbs first and hope for the best . If I hear something break .....I am not above crying . And if I find any of my tools in the cows holding area.............................There will be a BBQ tonight !
Im wondering if a throw out bearing or fork "took a powder" . Does anyone have a picture of the assy?
Hi everybody, jerry here from missouri, I'm new to the forum and been reading and catching up. Could be the plates are just stuck togather from sitting to long. I,ve a question for Darinray. My d21a-3 came up with water in the oil pan (about 2 gallons) I pulled the head and cant find any indication of leakage anywhere. i thought maybe oil cooler but cant find any cooler except the transmission cooler. any ideas? thanks jerry
I restore old military vehicles as a hobby. Occasionaly the clutch on an old Jeep will stick to the pressure plate. What I usually do, is to crank the jeep and drive it while pumping the clutch. Sometimes it takes only a few feet, other times it has taken a 1/4 mile or so. I have not ever had one to not break free. Don't know if this will work on a dozer or not since I am new to dozers.
Does anyone know where I can get decals for my d20p-6?
D37P-5A Track Adjuster Problem Howdy. I'm new here so I apologize now if I'm not doing this right. My D37 (1995 Model) has a track adjuster problem. The left track started going slack to where it was about to sling the track off. I pumped in some grease and tightened it up only to find it going slack again within minutes. I discovered after a couple of times doing this that grease is coming out of the other end of the adjuster as I pump it in. Maybe the seal is leaking? Any suggestions of how to solve this little problem. Thanks in advance for any help.
Contact me through email by clicking my link below and I can send you a picture of what I know.
All you have to do is get your track pulled off to the side and don't take it completely off unless you have the gator clip link. If you do have the link put it around your front idler and unbolt it keeping tracks close by---by blocking or chaining. Pull your idler out and rebuild it. Contact me if you need anything else. Good luck.
Darinray, thanks for the reply. Can you please give me some more details on what you mean when you say, "pull the track off to the side". Do you mean you can get it out of the way for removing the idler without unbolting the track? Also, what's a gator clip link? How would I identify it. Yeah, ok i'm an ignoramus, but hopefully not too old to learn. Thanks!
I have a question for Darin, I was checking my fluid levels in my clutch and it was barely touching the dipstick. I ran it for about a hour without adding any oil, the next day I was going to add some oil and it was overfull. What is the proper way to check it?
Keep us posted Tommy how you make out and thanks for contacting me via email. David m j- check your levels before starting on level ground and double dip the dipstick... if you dont' think about doing that before pulling it all the way out you may notice there is a low level... put it back in and pull it out again and it MAY be normal.. Good luck.
Is there anyway for the hydraulic oil to get into the clutch? I have checked it both times before I started the machine. And now It's way overfull, thanks for your help.
I need an ignition switch will a komastu forklift switch work? they look identical and both have same key and 6 post terminal?? D21P-6
Doesn't appear that I have a gator clip link unless I'm looking for the wrong thing. If I don't, how do i get the track apart?
How much should I pay for new D-39?
water in oil pan on d21a-3? :beatsme::I have a D21a (sn 30708) with engine model 4d92-1. Does any one know the head bolt torque values and sequence for the head. Local komatsu dealer's books dont show any thing so they are trying to get the info from Japan. I had gotten water in the oil pan ( still dont know where it came from). I pressure tested the head and block and nothing showed any leakage. So new head gasket and cross all my fingers and toes. Thanks Jerry
This site is great This site is the best for info on equipment. You guys and gals just helped me fix my D20P that would not start. Some much good info here, Thanks
I have a komatsu d21p-6 Can anyone tell me what type and weight oil is used in the track rollers? Thanks
On my d21p-6, if I don't use it for several days, the left steering clutch sticks togather. What causes this and is a start of a big problem? Thanks
I asked this question in the track loaders section and nobody seemed to know. Maybe you guys can help. I have a 85 komatsu D31. What are the 3 dipsticks under the seat for, and what type of oil do they take? I read this entire thread and found something close, but that model discussed, only had 2 dipsticks there and must have been older/newer. Also, the inching pedal. Is this the same as a clutch? Should i be using it to engage and disengage transmission upon takeoff and shifting? It is a powershift unit. Im not sure if its not working correctly, or im using it wrong. I just picked this machine up a few weeks back and havent run it much yet due to low fluid levels in those diptubes and bad weather. Any help would be apreciated.
To sick&tired, I cant tell you about the dipsticks and oil on that model, but my dozer has an inching pedal and what it does is decrease the fluid pressure gradually, like on a hydrostatic garden tractor. the further you push it, the slower the loader will go. Very usfull when working up close to a house,ect. If you have the engine running at a working rpm, you should use it for putting in forward or reverse. The only time I don't use mine for shifting is if I'm running at low rpm.
I know this is not the right place for this question, but you guys are so knowledgeable I thought someone might help. What is a sprag clutch? G
I have a d20-6 and I was wondering if there was some sort of breather in the clutch case? After running the dozed for awhile and I shut down the engine and pull out the dipstick oil runs up out of the tube. Thanks inadvance.
If your bottom rollers are dry inside or they are showing that they are leaking....even heavy oil will leak out so your better off pumping some grease in them until they stop squeeling. Just hold the end of the pump to the whole where teh plug is and fill it up.
The clutches are rusted or stuck together and can work like this for some time but clutches and steel disc are in need. Contact me again if you need anything.
sitting in the seat the far right dipstick is your bevel gear- 30W engine oil middle one is tranny- 30W engine oil far left is your steering clutches- 30W engine oil. Hope this helps.
Yeah there is a breather on top of the housing... How is your level before running?
The oil level shows between the first and second mark
The level shows between the two marks before starting. After running it for awhile it acts as is it has built up pressure.
Darinray- Your the man!!! Thank you!! That is just what i was looking for. From my research i thought sae 30w was in order but i wanted to be sure.
Roller Question First of all, let me say thanks to everyone for all of the terrific information posted here. I bought my D21P-6 about a year ago and have found just about everything that I needed to know so far about it right here. I use it primarily around my property in central Louisiana to make trails and clear food plots. It has been quite an impressive machine for its size. Towards the end of the summer I noticed heavy vibrations when tracking on the roads. It has been very dry this year so it could be that the vibrations became much more noticeable on the hard packed dirt as opposed to softer ground. The panels will literally shake to the point that some bolts have loosened up while tracking on hard pack. It does have the wide swamp pads on it but I never noticed this heavy of a vibration before, not even on my driveway at home. Is this normal on these machines when running on a hard dirt surface? I am new to tracked machines so I wouldn't know where to start if I thought that there was a problem. Any insight would be helpful. Thanks again for info posted here. Great forum! Adam
D20 with stuck main wet clutch OK so I haven't used the D20 all summer. Yesterday I went to check fluids and otherwise winterize it and when I started it the clutch pedal had no effect. I pulled the floor plate and all the levers and inertial brake are working as designed so I am assuming the double wet disk clutch has somehow rusted??? to the flywheel. I can start it in gear because of some previous rewiring and so I tried pushing against a Mesquite tree with no effect except to remove some bark and stall the little engine. When I got back to the house I went thru the manual which of course does not cover whats wrong when wet disk clutch will not disengage. I did however read about how to remove the clutch from machine. In there it says to insert 3-150mm x 10mm x 1.5mm/thrd (5") bolts with nuts and then tighten the nuts down about 10 mm (3/8"). I am figuring I may be able to insert those bolts through the access plate on top of the clutch housing and release all the spring pressure on the plates. With that done, if the bolts don't stick out to far and I can turn the clutch case around without tearing something else up in the bell housing, I will try jarring it once again and see if that works. The biggest problem is access to the clutch drum. I may need a mirror to see whats going on in there thru the access hole. The little old girl worked fine last spring when I parked her and I have never heard of a wet clutch seizing like this. Any other ideas and experiences would be great to read. OldHH
ajl7742 I got my D20 from a guy over in Sulfur Springs Texas. When I got it onto the job I thought it really rattled a lot. I used it that way for a few days and then for some reason I lifted the tracks off the ground with the blade and noticed that the lip on the roll of the rear most roller had worn completely off the roller. Another roller was seized and the track was just grinding it down. I talked it over with the wife and we decided to bite the bullet and replace them all since there wasn't even one which was even close to allowable spec. I managed to find aftermarket rollers and bought a complete set of 12. I believe they take a 22 mm socket and a very long breaker bar with a cheater. Somewhere on the web I have seen a reference to maximum allowable wear for rollers and track but do not have the link handy. Here is link to another article on that topic. It was amazing how much less vibration there was after changing them out. As an additional note, when I had it up changing rollers I noticed the subframe member on the left side under the fuel tank was cracked several places and I took it out and rewelded it it while the machine was down for repairs. The vibration had apparently cracked the frame from long neglect. OldHH
I am battling the same problem, d20 sat for 3 months and I got the same results as you. I have tried the same things as you with no success. I dont have the books and see no way to go through the small access hole on top.I have to kill it to change gears , it was doing great before it sat up. This thread is not very active but I hope someone , gives help soon. I sure like the little dozer and want to use it again. Also , where might I get a shop manual or copy, paper or CD . Good luck ,and if I figure something out , I will post it immediatly.
Thanks OldHH, That is what I was afraid of. I am going to pick it up this weekend and check them out. I have a feeling that a few may be shot. I need to do a few on my KX91 excavator anyway so I guess I will be getting a little hands on experience soon.
On the roller topic, I have read you can build the rollers up with weld but then you may loose the heat treat. After trying to turn the guts of one into something else on the lathe I found they make them really really hard. I ended up throwing the part in the bottom of the BBQ before a long cookout. The next day after everything had cooled down it could be worked with my old noncarbide tooling. You would definately have to disassemble each roller and then weld it and reharden it and then reassemble it. The manual I got for the D20 was a reprint of marginal quality from SSB (bad picture reproduction). The diagram on page 24-2 shows that there is room to insert a stud thru the access plate hole and thread it into the pressure plate. You will notice that there is almost no clearance between the pump drive gear and the pressure plate case so I would be very careful turning the engine over so it doesn't accidentally start and tear up everything. The manual says that the way you have to disassemble the pressure plate from the flywheel is insert the 10mm x 1.5 studs and then crank down on a captive nut enough to compress the springs and pull the pressure plate back off the clutch discs. i'm thinking that by pulling the pressure off the clutch discs maybe I can loosen the rust that is sticking them together. Then with the transmission in neutral insert a bar to twist the drive shaft which would then try to rotate the discs which would immediately break them loose. Oh course! I'm being optimistic! I made a copy of the page which i will try to insert as a jpg If you get to it before I do let us know how it works out. My machine is 2 hours away in the middle of a field north of Waco and me and the shop are here in dallas. I hope to get back down there by the end of the week. OldHH
On the topic of a wet clutch sticking together; I had an old D2 Cat with a wet main clutch. When I first brought it home the clutch would not release therefore I couldn't shift. I drained out the old oil, loosened off the clutch adjustment and filled the clutch housing with diesel fuel(maybe should have been kerosene?) and run it for awhile. Drained the diesel and let it drip out good, filled with correct amount of new oil and it worked good. Old oil can sometimes stick certain things together.
Thank you for the picture of the clutch assy. Great news!!!!!!!!! after parking the dozer pointing uphill ( I dont know if that had any thing to do with it ) While I was trying to fix it I adjusted the shaft brake and added 2 qts of new fluid. I started my d20 in gear and backed it up , then once again I started it up in forward gear.... thought I would bump a stump once again , pushed the clutch in as far as I could without engaging the drive shaft brake and ran at the stump from 10 feet . It worked !!!! It works better now than ever and shifts smooth with no grinding. Keep bumping that stump . Good luck ! Nick Thank you Jesus ! I really didn't want to go into that clutch housing.
With so much talk about clutches I think you guys have given my D20P-7E a clutch virus. My machine was operating great until suddenly when clutch pedal was depressed it became extremely hard to engage or come back dis-engaged. I have removed floor plate where it appears all is normal no bent linkage, I was able to limp back to shop with force applied to clutch pedal. I cant tell by diagram if unit has a T.O bearing that may be seized to shaft? Any thoughts would be appreciated. TY
That's wierd , You have to depress the clutch to make the machine go forward ?????
No, what I meant was you needed to be superman to depress or release the clutch pedal. I have found the problem lies where the clutch attachment rod connects with the fulcrum lever then to the clutch assembly. Inside the fulcrum lever is a needle bearing that cannot be greased, once it goes dry it is metal to metal on shaft which then caused it to bind resulting in pedal not wanting to move. The bearing is $9.00 #06124-02020 from Komatsu. If you are noticing the pedal not retracting quickly, drive shaft spin-down time excessive (as adjustment rods wont extend fully) or the clutch return spring breaking your problem may be this bearing which cant be seen until it's dissembled. I have 3400hrs on my machine.
Great .......always good to hear when you have found the problem . Good luck.
As a followup on my earlier post, the 10 mm bolt idea pulling on the pressure plate idea worked to pull the outer pressure plate but did not affect the inner one. I was able to use it to take the pressure off the outer clutch plate but the inner disk and plate are still frozen up in there and it looks like I will have to remove the bell housing and pull the pressure plate etc. I tried again pushing stuff with the machine but that didn't work. With the pressure plate released I tried rocking the driveshaft with a big wrench. Even though I could feel the outer disk loose in there, it was still bound up. In disgust, I left the clutch pedal depressed with a 14 inch chunk of firewood. Maybe by the time I get back it will have magically come loose in there. Otherwise, back it up on some timbers, slide a piece of 28 inch wide plywood under to roll the transmission jack on and drop the sucker. This is why impact wrenches were invented. Maybe I should replace my left steering clutch while I’m at it. I pulled the alternator at the same time because I’m not getting any charge. OldHH
My 1985 Komatsu D21A-5, shuttle shift, 1800 hours, hasn't been used in about 10 months. I've started it several times for about 10 minutes in those 10 months just to check the batteries, but hyave not used it. It's stored inside 24/7. Well yesterday I started it to move it outside to get my trailer out which was parked behind it and it went forward just fine. To get it out of the garage, it has to go down a 3" step then within 4' of flat then has to go down an 8" step. All went well. I got my truck, pulled out the trailer then started to back the Komatsu back inside. It went in reverse OK, but when I got to the8" step, Komatsu backed to it then just sat there. I had to go forward then backward 2 times to get a slow running start to get up the step. I was going to use it next week to do a few things, but I don't want to get down to the lower field and find out I have no reverse. What is going on? The temperature was about 22 degrees? was the trany fluid just cold or do I have a bigger problem??
22 degrees ??????? That little dozer is telling you to stay inside where it is warm. It is 70 degrees down here today . I always wonder why you guys live up north........ If your oil level is low and the cold temps cause it to contract, it could just be acting like low clutch fluid. We all tend to freak out when these machines act up , but it is usually a simple fix. Good luck
Hello Glock, I had the exact same problem with my D20, I sprayed some WD40 at the clutch pedal pivot point, this helped for about 15 minutes, I then sprayed it with PB Blaster, been working fine since. Hope this helps
I am brand new to this site and I need help. I have a D21A (not sure about other numbers). My left side track does not pull whwn making right turns or pushing. Any help is appreciated.
Your left side clutches are either bad or oil soaked. Need to tear it down to find out exactly. If you just got it maybe you could be LUCKY and find that the linkage is not adjusted right or something is binding it allowing the left side steering valve to be partially disengaging BUT after finding this play the lottery because that woudl be luck. Contact me if you need more info.
Hi, I just purchased a Komatsu D20P-6. The left side will not pull. Tried adjusting the brake bands. The right side adjusted fine. The left side was all the way out. Tightened and then loosened by 1/4 turn. That did not seem to help. Also the Left steering lever does not have pressure like the Right steering lever. I think it may be the steering clutches but one person mentioned the proportional valve. I have already oredered a manual. Just asking for someone to give me advise. Working on a dozer is new to me.
Thanks -Komatsu D20P-6 Thanks Darin. You have been Great help Gene
Anyone know what size the large Hex plugs are on the backside of the case behind the rear sprocket? Are the steering clutches in there? I want to pull them and see if theres oil or water in there. I assume they are suppossed to be dry? My 1996 D20p-7E left lever stops steering after it warms up. Also the clutch seems to be engaging at the end of the pedal. I assume some adjustments will need to be made. Thanks
Just pull the plugs on the bottom of the machine... Both the far left and the far right ones to see if you have oil in there. There should be no oil in there except the middle one which is your bevel gear oil. When you say it stops steering what exactly happens. Does a track just stop pulling (moving) when turning so it can't turn?
When I pull lever nothing happens, no track movement. It still drives forward and backwards fine, just doesn't steer very well especially with the left lever after it warms up. I attached a pic of the back plugs. Since it suppossed to be empty, are the back plugs just for inspection? Do you happen to know the size of the bottom plugs? I want to bring the right tools when I get to the site. Thanks
Machineman if I am correct that is the oil for the drive or rearend gear oil per say and yes it should have oil, if it does not it may have issues. the plug on top where the arrow is would be the fill or full plug /under it at the bottome is the empty/drain plug. Oil should be up to and overflowing from the top plug as that is the its full indicator when fluid comes out I run rottela t in mine. Lay down flat on your back head under the hitch pin and look straight up you will find a set of 3 drain plugs. I think these are the brake/transmission plugs
I would agree with Skyking its low or not warmed up as my d21-p will move slow untill warm even when full on the oil if its below 30 it takes a little to warm it up to move as should.
Ok, then under the hitch pin area the left and right plugs should have no oil as they are for braking. I will pull those plugs. Thanks.
Those are the steering clutch housing plugs and yes they should have NO oil in there (far left and far right ONLY) If you are pulling the levers way out toward you then it sounds like you just need to adjust the brake band by removing the back plates (big hole above your arrow end) and removing the little cover with a hump on it. Tighten the 17mm head in 1/2 turn then 1/4 turn increments. You are suppose to tighten them down until they bottom out and then back off like 2 or 3 turns but a lot of times the threads are all rusty and you can't turn the nut very wesll so you won't have a refernce point to go from. If it hasn't turned in a long time you may find that when you pull the levers the engine boggs down due to the clutches not releasing. Hope this helps.
D-20 I was interested in hooking up a 3-pt hitch on the back of my d-20 and was curious if anyone has done this or heard of it? This way i could have more than just a ripper on the back if needed, have a couple banks that i would like to no-till but 2 wh drive tractor dont like the hill. I reworked the slopes with the dozer and it held it with no problems. Thanks
All, We are the contracted undercarriage remanufacturers for Komatsu in India and SE Asia. We have been in business for almsot 25 years in India and are expanding our operations to serve the US and Canada markets. I'm looking to establish networks and see if we can help anyone out here with our expertise. Jags www.krausslynks.com
I have a d20-6 , and sometimes it want start off the key switch. If the charge light is on it will start, if not on you have to cross out the starter. Someone told me that there is a diode in the alternator that needs to be replaced. Can anyone help with this problem?
New problems on my D31s Well it finally dried up enough here in No. Mexifornia to get out side and work on the kommie D31s i picked up at auction a couple months back. I had checked all the fluid dipsticks and added sae30 where it appeared low. I had warmed up the tractor for about 10 mins at idle and lifted the bucket and ripper bar, I pushed in the inching pedal and engaged it into gear. I was driving it down the property in 1st and pushed inching pedal and shifted into second. The shift engagements seemed rough from N to 1 and from 1 to2. Clunky. Jerky. After running it for a litte bit i realized the inching pedal doesnt seem to work at all. It pushes in and returns and seems like its working but no changes are felt except for what seems to be engine booging down a little when completely depressed. It does not help in shifting and will not slow or stop tractor like a clutch would. By then it seemed fairly well warmed up. I was driving it forward and backward, testing the gears and brakes and steering etc. When driving under power both pedals applied as brakes fully, it will not stop, barely slows it down. - I figure brakes are out of adjustment or worn. Next, steering brakes. Left side works well. Right side works sometimes or just barely. I figure same thing. Out of adjustment or worn brakes or clutches. This is where the problem that i cant figure out is. I would be going forward with no problems, and then out of nowhere, it would be like someone was applying the brakes or pulling on the E brake to slow it completely down and stall out. Its l;ike something gets tight and binds up. No Noise. No grinding, but it kinda squeels and the motor stresses and some smoke comes from somewhere and smells like burnt engine oil. To avoid stalling, i move gear selector from 1 to N, 2 to 1, and engine revs back up and it will go again. It will do this only sometimes and in any gear, forward or backward. I have the parts book on it, but i dont have the repair manual yet. Any input guys?
I have a car hauler with 2 3500 lb. axles. Can I safely haul my d20 with this trailer or do I need bigger. I really dont want to buy another trailer just to haul this thing 50 miles twice a year.
Why not just rent a sufficient trailer for those hauls? Most rental places do not charge too much. Your trailer is too light at 7000#s max axle weight to haul it. If I recall corectly you are dealing with 9200-9600lbs
I have a tri axle trailer with 17000lb capacity and its for sale. trailer brakes an all six wheels,brakes and bearings are new bumper pull. I used it to pull my d21 with a 3/4ton truck and now do not need the trailer. $2200 bucks and its your the tires are also mostly new.
I'm new at this so bear with me I have a 1996 D20p thats in good shap but was having trouble pushin in on the clutch pedal and now its stuck all the way disingaged can you help have not manual.
Thanks for the offer shouldabeen , but I think I will check locally for a rental.I hate to buy another trailer to use maybe twice a year.
Hey goldeneagle this is what I found when I incurred similar problem. Hope this helps as it beats tearing into clutch thats not broke. I have found the problem lies where the clutch attachment rod connects with the fulcrum lever then to the clutch assembly. Inside the fulcrum lever is a needle bearing that cannot be greased, once it goes dry it is metal to metal on shaft which then caused it to bind resulting in pedal not wanting to move. The bearing is $9.00 #06124-02020 from Komatsu. If you are noticing the pedal not retracting quickly, drive shaft spin-down time excessive (as adjustment rods wont extend fully) or the clutch return spring breaking your problem may be this bearing which cant be seen until it's dissembled.
Glock Thanks I'll try that. Tomball is the closest Komatsu dealer to me I think. That might also expland the spring I found out in the horse pend last time I was working back there. Thanks again
I didnt get any replies to my earlier post, so i just went out and started working on the D31s. I took the floor board off, i took the seat off, and the rear upper panel. I had cleaned it with a pressure washer before, but didnt have real good access in the trans area. I am going to rewash it today. What i found was the lever which engages the steering clutches on the R side was stuck completely in the up/on position. It was rusting, and being prevented from returning by alot of hard packed dirt in that area. I took a big screwdriver and was able to scrape out alot of the dirt and clear the blockage. Then i sprayed bunches of WD40 on the joint and let it soak for a few minutes. I took the screwdriver and a hammer and started to bang on the lever to loosen it up. After about a 1/2 hour of tapping down, stepping on brakes clutch etc. I was able to finally break it free and now it will move smoothly and return where it is supposed to. Hoping that i have fixed it somewhat, i started the tractor, let it warm up, and without replacing anything i removed, i faked a seat and tested it out in my driveway. Seems to work better now. I didn t experience the dragging problem- so far, and now it turned on R side like it was supposed too. I adjusted the brake pedal linkages a little, i think i need some more. I dont have the repair manual yet so im unsure of the exact proceedure. Anyone have any pics of what linkages i should be adjusting on the brake rods?- there are a few on each one. Darin Ray where are you buddy? You seem to know the most about these kommies. Thanks S&T
Hello all, I am looking at buying a D20P-7 serial number 75056 and would like to know if this is a good model. I am in the dozer business and run older cats now. I have a customer that wants me to trade out some work for this thing, i have been wanting a smaller dozer for sometime now. Can anyone tell from the serial number what year and hp this is? thanks JW
I had a new diode put in the alternator and it fixed my starting problem
I am new to this forum. I found it while trying to find a solution to a problem that I am having with my dozer. I have a Komatsu D20A. I let it sit up for around 3 months & when I tried to use it the right track was locked up. I pulled the seat & found that the rod in the control valve was moving properly. All of the other hydraulics are working properly I tried pulling it with my tractor to break it loose but it just dragged the whole dozer. I'm not sure what the next step is. I would sure appreciate any ideas or advice that anyone could offer to help me get it back going.
Sounds like you have a brake locked up on the right side. Might try to see if you can move the linkages and lube them up. If you have a parking brake it may be stuck also, try moving everything and lube it up first. You could have a rat nest in the tractor as well.
D20 steering clutch Hello all, I have a 1988 D20A-6, the right hand steering clutch growls when using it, can anybody tell me what causes this?
S&T....There is NO way I know the most about these komatsus but have run into problems from time to time. I don't check this site as much as I would like and sorry for not seeing your posts. The linkages are probably fine UNLESS it was adjusted prior to you owning it. To adjust the brake clearance you take the small cover off the back of the clutch housings and tighten down on the 17mm head until it bottoms out and then back off a couple turns. Keep me posted and contact me anytime via my email. Good luck and take care.
Looks like a 1992 model and they are 40hp.
Hey Joe, Are there any other symptoms like motor bogging down or anything? It may be your clutches trying to release or your brake drum being chewed up... your slip yoke bearing bad. Best thing to do is tear it down to find out before something major happens. Good luck.
no other symptoms, they work fine, don't slip, just growl when you engage them under a load, been like that since I've owned it [4yrs now] I was just curious if this is normal or if they are worn and need replaced.
I have a customer here in Ontario that has one says it a great machine but a little to small for what he needs, only a few hundred hrs on it, And its going up for sale or for trade up. he wants a D4G, 550H or 650H
Darin, You have been such a help with our D20P. Certainly appreciate all your help. Wish everyone was as nice as you. Thanks again. Gene & Jennifer
Hi, Thought I would contribute something as I have learned a lot from searching this forum in the past few months. I just bought this Mitsubishi for my 25 acre property. It's a BD2H(E) model. E means wider track. Has a nice wide stance. Also has rippers which were a real selling point. Also like the clear view ahead (exhaust comes out the back! - cool) Seller is a real nice guy who operates a D11 and a drag line in a coal mine for 30 years and he knows his stuff and how to look after it, so he also gave me a few pointers. He loves these small dozers and could not fault it for its size....although he did say he liked this one because of the wider track (and he got the rippers fitted).
Hello,I have issues with my d21-a5: First I left dozer with trusted friend and now when you pull the left lever hard, it barely turns.Like the brake is doing the turning and track is still engaged.Feels like it's been like that a few hours and brake is wearing down.I didn't hear about this until recently bad enough that it's no longer working good.What a pal. Second this past year I've had to turn glow plugs on for 15-30seconds to get it to start.Smokes black and a knock until warm.Even in 100deg weather.When I bought it I didn't have to use glow plugs unless really cold.Injectors dripping fuel now? Third when I check transmission fluid level near brake pedal,It's dry then I put back in and recheck,it may have oil on it then if I leave dip stick out for a little longer,it will show oil level is good.Like air pressure in tank?I am supposed to check level while it's off?When running the dip stick is dry.Also if I loose power to tracks which does happen sometimes,I pull dipstick out and then put back in and power comes back.I put a qt of oil in and problem is gone. History of dozer,it's a rebuilt in vietnam referbished unit with a pipe roll cage on it.Showed 259hr when bought and nearly 500hrs now.Was really nice looking till I used it clearing cedars on side of mountains at house.Recently I've had overheating issues so would just use it lightly and would hold temp under 210deg.I had radiator rodded out and new temp gage put on and weather has been cool so we'll see if it's fixed.It looked like hydro oil in it so I added it.I see know I should use 30SAE engine oil.I have hydro filter but don't know where to put it.long tube cartrige.I was thinking it was going to be the spin on near the batteries.Man I need some manuals I know.Komatsu dealer in dallas is awesome.That's where I bought my fuel,oil,hydro,throttle cable from.Real helpful and good people.One here in San Antonio is looking after the big boys machines with the big money.I don't blame them but sucks to have a machine people look down on.(grey market)
One more thing, it pulls good on both sides under load but just won't turn good on left side,like brake is trying to grab it but worn down.Doesn't matter if forward or reverse.Man I'm temted to take to shop but scared of the bill.thanks for the help.CG
if the left track won't disengage, especially under a load it sounds like the steering clutch is stuck
Steering Problem I was working with my D20-6 this morning all at once when I pull either steering lever the machine stops moving and a clunking noise comes from the belly. Everything still seems/sounds normal while going forward or backward (until I try to turn). I don't understand what point the steering levers have in common - unless both clutches went out at the same time.:idontgetit Is there ANY chance this is a quick, cheap fix? Any thoughts and suggestions would be appreciated.
New observation: oil is coming out of the final drive.
I think you need to check the pressures on your steering control valve to see if both sides are actually getting pressure to release the clutches at teh same time. Is there oil in BOTH steering clutch cases? Hopefully NOT... Make sure there is nothing obstructing the linkages that woudl cause both to be actuated... If you push the brake pedal down all by itself (don't pull any levers and go forward or reverse) does it stop the machine or make the motor bog down? Where does the oil leak from the final?? The sprocket seal???
Reply is in you message
Have you tightened the brake band down in the back of the machine behind those 2 little covers??? I do have manuals so contact me via my website for information.
Garrett. I am new to dozers but not to hydraulics. Sounds to me like your hydraulic tank might have a clogged breather or if the oil level is low you might be sucking air into the system. Sometimes on hydraulic brake systems, air can cause a piston to push outwards causing the brakes to drag. You may be experiencing a similar problem with the piston that disengages the drive clutches. I would guess they will clear themselves of air on their own? Maybe there is a bleeder but, I do not remember seeing one. There is a bleeder on top of the spool valve that controls the clutches on each side. Good luck.
Komatsu d21p-6 right side drive issue I was searching threads a few days ago and someone had mentioned having the info on changing drive clutches in a Komatsu d21p-6 with out removing the final drives. I have the covers off and am looking at the clutches on the right side but have no idea how to get them out. There doesn't appear to be any way of getting a wrench in there to get to all of the bolts with out lifting up one side and moving track to roll the clutch around. I am not sure the clutches are bad but, I am going to find out. I was able to push dirt for about 30 minutes and everything seemed fine. When I went to BACK it up on a trailer, the right side lost all drive. Now back on flat ground, it still will not pull on the right side. Oil levels all check out. No manuals to reference so any help would be greatly appreciated. Also experiencing the starter issue. Guess a diode is in order?
Thanks,I'm going to get it sunday I'll give a few things a try.Talking to a mechanic he said that it may use glow plugs even at normal start up and I should test glow plugs voltage.I thought glow plugs only worked when you turned key backwards? We'll see.He thinks some isn't working. As to turning he said like yall to check for oil and back up on a trash tree and put blade down to lift tracks off the ground and see if side is under power or not when pulling the lever.Then adjust brake band.Nice to have a baby dozer in that respect.9k lbs ish Knock at startup is due to unburned fuel he thinks.Maybe dirty injectors or just glow plugs not working. Lastly,said if I can't figure it out, it will cost $1500ish for a side steering clutch and maybe a $2k job walking out fixing everything.Let's hope I can fix. If i can,I'm thinking about moving on up.Trading in on big older dozer.I seen alot of cheap large dozers on Craigslist in 40-70k lb range.Before I get a reply,I know repairs cost on a large old machine are very large.I seen a nice one thats a D5 with winch and a whole slew of rebuilds or repairs recently done for sale for $14500.Also TD25 old cable blade for like $8500neg.Also recent overhauls. My question is I have a friend in Tx hill country that is in a 3000 acre ranch subdivision(Smaller 15-50 acre ranches).If i had a dozer out there I could drive within the ranch doing work due to gravel roads.And with new buyers and my other friend being president of land owners assn,I can pay for it in no time.What is too big for rough and rocky land? I don't want something that can get trapped in a valley or not enough power to climb hills.To do normal ranch work like roads,cedar clearing,shaping,fence lines.Is a TD25ish machine too big to get down hills doing work and what about cable lifts.I know not near as good as hyd but how bad are they really?You can have 100ft elevation drops on 25acre tracts so I don't want to mess up getting in a tight spot. I have made my little dozer do alot and learned alot from it.And really enjoy it.Just ready to get something bigger.Sure a dream is to make a living doing it but don't have capital to invest in semi truck,trailer,dozer,back hoe,track loader,grader in order to really have a real business.And in newer condition so that I can depend on it.Need to get a job driving/living it first I know but my real job pays too much to quit.Man don't I ramble on?Sorry.Thanks everyone.I'll be contacting you soon for those manuals.
Just wanted to give an update to my problem from above. I took the clutches out and found water had invaded the drives on both sides. Everything was rusted very badly. There was also enough dust in the drives that the clutches were running in it all the time. I suppose that is why the clutches would grab some of the time and not other times. I suppose replacing the brake bands would be a good idea too since I am already in there. Anyhow, a simple fix was not in the cards for me but, this really isn't a difficult job. It just takes a little time. I am thinking it may be a good idea to pull the plugs from the bottom occasionally to check for water and dust build up. Just thought I would share my experience in order to inform and hopefully help someone with their machine.
1st time here, can anyone help me find a good and best deal on a shop manual for komatsu d20p-7. I'm replacing steering clutches. BigBoy
Got everyone covered here for parts... If I'm asked where to find the best deal and good deal I have to speak up. RIGHT???
I need help adjusting my clutches and or brake band on my d20p.Does anyone have a diagram or some info?Thanks,Tim
Sure do Tim. Contact me and I'll email you them.
d20p clutch and brake adjuatment Thanks for the reply,my email adress is [email protected] thanks,Tim
Great info guys. I have attempted to read some of the 80+ pages and have already learned alot about my machine but have kindof got lost on some issues and could use some pointers. I bought a Komatsu D20p about a year ago to clean up the farm and to push up some topsoil for our landscape business. After putting about 150 hours I had to tighten the tracks just a smidge. I am now having two issues. 1. I have now started to grind the gears. I have tried to slow down and it does reduce the grind and I have also adjusted the brake band between your feet and that has helped alot. Is there any more adjustments that I can do? 2. The more I use the machine, it will not turn left. This is the biggest issue. Can anyone point me to where and how to start checking. I have kindof got lost in the previous post on where to check. I plan on doing a couple yards and got more fencing to pushup the first part of April.
well for starters i was impressed to find a section dedicated to d20 and d21 dozers. sweeet idea, my compliments to the one who started the thread.. anywho i spent an hour or so going thru the 86 plus pages and have learned alot already.. i have recently purchased a D21P-6 , and im having some problems with the transmission. here is my problem, it only shifts in 1 forward and 1 reverse, i would like to get it to shift in 2 forward and 2 reverse. but meanwhile i have been using it with 1 gear each way. but after about an hour of working it gets really hard to disengage reverse and or forward. i have taken off the floor plate so i can see what is going on and one of the valves does not close completly some times. can i fix this by adjusting linkage or do i have a bigger issue ? Thanks in advance for any help, CB
great news.. after reading posts till i was dizzy i was inspired to go figure out whats going on with my shifter. i removed the floor plate and took the shifter cable loose, started the dozer and was able to(from the seat) shift it by hand, i have 2 gears forward and 2 reverse. the problem is in my cable it is just about froze up.. Next question is were can i order the cable for the shifter ?? any help greatly appreciated. thanks,CB PS. i have learned more about my dozer in the few hours i have spent reading this thread than i would have in years on my own. :notworthy
If Darin cant get it then look on ebay next call the dealer but have that vin number or youll be running in circles
I have been looking to purchase a used dozer and saw a Kimatsu D20A-6 on eBay. I have some farmland that I bought that is really overgrown. Will a D20A-6 be big enough to clean up the property and push over trees that are probably 8-10 inches in diameter?
cedar yes oak sometimes a little harder pine and cedar no problems jmo
hi.i have searched and read heaps of threads and havnt found what im after.i have a komatsu D21s-5 crawler loader.does anyone know if the track chains are interchangeable with anything ?i have been told that PC60 could but havnt been able to find any track chain daimentions to compare
update... changed out shifter cable and adjusted linkage and behold i have 2 forward and 2 reverse........ran it all weekend,, im lovin my D21 right now.. Adios, CB
Have an older komatsu d21. will move in low idle, will not move in high speed. any suggestions?
would like to sell f600 flat bed w/2000gal water truck w/2 pumps,Komatsu D21-p7 45hp 5ton joystick control 6way blade bulldozer,David Brown tractor 40hp w/disk, CRF 450 08yr 56hr w/gear Aria helmet(s),Tech10 size 9,one ind combo, Oakley crowbar nib....$19500 www.lancastercompound.com [email protected]
Can anyone tell me or provide photo of what should be included at the bottom ball or swivel connection of the blade on my D21? There is a lot of play here. I can not get the grease zerk to take grease either. Removed the zerk and it is ok. What is the zerk supposed to lub? Country Boy from Wagoner - Is you dozer a shuttle shift? I have suttle shift and my lever is getting stiff. I can get into all gears but it used to be real easy to move. I'm wondering if I have same problem? Thanks.
Danny B pull the floor plate and disconect the shifter cable then try and move the cable if its still hard you will need a new cable. kirby smith in tulsa can get it for you. take your old cable in and match it up there are 2 different lengths at least there was for mine. my cable cost $185.00 shure is nice to operate with new cable on it.. good luck,CB
Gino , i would make shure your shifter cables are adjusted properly,may not be going all the way in high gear or maybe check fluid levels, those are the easy ideas. remove floor plate so you can see what your shifter is doing . good luck,CB
here is a great place to look up parts for those of us who dont have books on our dozers.. http://www.komatsupartsbook.com/
Hi folks, I just bought an older (70's) D20P and am looking for a service/shop manual. Anyone have one for sale or know where I may find one? Thank you TomCs
D20p-7 steering issue I've posted about this issue before but now the problem has gotten lots worse. Now it barely steers when pulling either lever. The machine stops when I pull the lever and sometimes makes a moaning noise underneath. Also the brake pedal isn't doing much. It used to only happen after it warmed up. I pulled the left and right steering case plugs under the machine and each side drained over a couple quarts each. These plugs have not been checked in years. Suppossed to be dry? Also I've tried adjusting the bands from under those covers at the back of the machine. Tried 1, 2, 4, and 5 turns out. Neither of those postions improved the issue, just made the brake and levers max stroke change. Any suggestions? Machine has about 2900hrs on it. Thanks..
1991 Komatsu D20P-6 Hello folks, I was having a problem with the oil pressure light coming on my Dozer, I installed a new oil pressure sender (Komatsu part) and the light still coming on, I like to test the engine pressure so I went to my local auto parts store and the guy said that first I had to find out how much pressure this engine should read, does anyone know what the normal pressure should be? or the best method to measure it? I imagine that I need a pressure gage and connector with the metric hook up and hook it where the pressure sender is now? Right now, when I turn the engine on the low pressure light will be on and off and will turn off if I depress the clutch every time, but will comes on/off again if I move the dozer around The engine only smokes at start, after a few minutes no smoke at all...unless when I accelerate hard and I see some black smoke puffs initially and clears. I have change the engine oil couple times, seems like right after the change the light stays off but after a few hours it starts coming on again and the new oil is very dark already. I would greatly appreciate if someone could give me some pointers on this. Ed
http://s695.photobucket.com/albums/vv315/LancasterCompound/?action=view¤t=DSCN1324.mp4
Contact me Ed by clicking my link so we can talk about this. I just would like to know more info and it's faster by phone.
OK, so I'm thinking that the brake bands are still good becuase I get lots of pedal back when I adjust them. So likely problem is either worn out steering clutches or the cluthes are totally oil soaked and just slip. Is there any chance in cleaning and recovering oil soaked friction plates? Anyone know what the wear limits (thickness) are for the friction and drive plates. Looks like I will need to open it up and inspect them. Hopefully I can take them out without a complete disassemble of the back drivetrain.
Sounds like you are making progress. When they get oil soaked you are better off replacing them because you already are in there and DON'T want to do it again I'm sure. Contact me so I can set you up with parts and manuals.
Machineman, I'm sure Darin has suggested that you need to find the source of the oil leaks.I assume your Bevel seals need renewing...along with bevel oil. Jim
Yep, Over the past couple years I've added more than a couple quarts to the bevel case fill tube. Final drives are still full on both sides. Is it posible to pull the clutches and seals without a complete teardown? If the weather is decent I might open it up next weekend.
Having a problem with my D21-A5. I used it to do some gravel-moving on my neighbors driveway, which is a steep hill (50-80% grade). No noticeable problems. Parked the dozer. I cranked it up a couple days later, and there was a strange whining noise. I put it in 1st to go forward, and nothing happened. Sometimes it does this when its cold, but after waiting 30 seconds or so, I became concerned. It finally moved, but very hesitantly and intermittently. I got it to a good spot and checked all the fluid levels. Blade hydraulics were a little low but, everything else was fine. I spent some more time playing around with it and here's a synopsis of the symptoms: 1. Whining noise when in neutral, but goes away when in gear 2. Moves fairly well at low rpms, can even push a pile of dirt 3. Steers properly 4. Inching pedal and brake work properly 5. Works better in 2nd gear than 1st, regardless of direction 6. If moving at low rpms, and then transitioning to higher rpms, it loses drive at somepoint around 1/2-full throttle 7. The whining noise returns as rpms climb Anybody got any ideas? I pull the directional and inching valve off the top of the transmission and inspected it, everything looks great. Not sure where to go next. Thanks in advance.
Hi there I am new to this forum and was wondering if some one could help me out with the type of oil/ fluid that my hitachi DX40 dozer will take in the front oil resevoir located under the floor panel. I have a light on the control panel which shows a sprocket and a oil drop and I now have no drive in any direction. Thanks in advance Dave
i have a d20a-5 serial number is 57045 can anyone tell whatr year model this is.
try SSB Tractor [ [email protected] ] That where I found mime.
No Steering on my D37P-5A The steering on my D37P has always been a little weak. Now, the left steering is completely gone. Recently, the the left chain went slack (track adjuster seal went out) when I was in a ditch and leaned on the stick for left steering really hard and pumped the brake to try to get the machine to turn left. It wouldn't turn out of the ditch and now I don't have any left steering. I fixed the track adjuster so the chain stays tight and I can see the linkage under the seat moving when i push the stick to the left, and the motor lugs down, but no left turn. Right steering works ok, but sometimes I have to pump the brake a little to get the right steering to activate. I've messed with the brake band adjustments a little but no joy. What's wrong with it? Thanks, Tommy
So I started taking it apart and was wondering what I'm in for with these hydraulic lines? Is this some kind of Hydraulic assist and does it just pull out?
Have the same issue with leaky cylinders to lift blade - did you resolve your issue?
New here. Recently bought used Komatsu D21A6 3800 hours. So far, I love this machine. When I bought it, there were no visible hydraulic leaks. After working the unit pretty hard, I now have severe leaks in the cylinders that lift and lower the blade. What started out as a small drip is now a small stream. Any advice on what I need to do? Thank you
Sounds like they need rebuilt. You should be able to find a place that does hydraulic cylinder repair by asking equipment dealers in your area.
Thank you - I will check into that this week. Any ideas on what it may cost? Do I need to remove them and take them somewhere? How easy to remove and what should I be careful of if I do need to remove?
Yes that is the hydraulic lines that disengage the steering clutches. They will remove from the machine easily enough with some bolts. Hope this go well with you and contact me anytime.
They are not that bad to rebuild with just some elbow grease. If you need some assistance contact me and I'll see what I can do. I'm not sure if the service manual has a very good description on how they are done but I can walk you through it.
Replace the seals on my angle cylinders, on my D37. I unhooked the shaft from the blade, removed the shaft and cylinder from the dozer and rebuilt it in my shop. Very simple procedure of replacing the seals. Komatsu had a seal kit that had everything I needed.
I don't know if this belongs here but here goes. I am the proud new owner of a Dresser TD7G. I would like to know who the actual manufacturer of the motor was. The previous owner says cummins but I don't know. I couldn't find any info on the Web. The engine tag says: Komatsu Dresser Libertyville, Illonois Made in USA KDC Model 410/240N KDC P/N 1237736H91H engine S/N 44475494 Thanks - I am greatful for this forum. You guys have been a big help.
I am the owner of a D20PL-6A which is now down with a bad starter/alternator combo and a stuck wet clutch. I decided to tear into the 24 volt alternator because a new one is (reman) $150 plus aftermarket. The starter they are even more proud of at $750 plus. My starter needs a bendix / clutch. the motor seems OK. I have rebuilt Delco starters and alternators and find parts and rebuild kits readily available. Not so for Nikko / Komatsu starter motors. For instance the rectifier for the Delco 10 DN alternator is $27. I can't even find a parts breakdown of Nikki motors, let alone replacement components. Oh yeh I could spend the green and pay Komatsu's prices but I'd so much rather rebuild it myself and have the satisfaction of knowing I kept the labor here. I know they are rebuilding this stuff here in the states but where can I access the aftermarket replacement parts?
As stated earlier you can find any number of cylinder rebuilders in Dallas. I would suggest buying the seals from the outfit that they buy their parts from and doing it yourself. http://www.hddistributors.com/econnect/shop.aspx These guys have a good website and a very knowledgeable counter crew and can get r done. H&D distributors are on Irving Blvd in Dallas. There is a great bearing distributor right across the street and hose fabricators within a mile of mockingbird and Irving Blvd. I just finished rebuilding the control valves for my Ford 4500 Backhoe and bought all the orings etc there. And now no leaks from that department. John
Howdy to everyone from Texas. This is my first post in this forum, and hopefully won't be the last if things work out. I have read everything up to page 45, and will finish reading the rest this weekend. This is an extremely informative forum, and I feel like I could get help here with anything needed in the future. Thanks to all you contributors for taking the time to post all the helpful information here. I would like to know if anyone here has had any dealings, good or bad, with a business in Sulphur Springs, Texas that sells used Komatsu equipment called KTOO Equipment Sales, with a web address of www.holedigger.net? I have found a Komatsu dozer there that looks promising, but I know nothing about the business. Anyone?
KTOO Opinion I bought a D20PL-6A from him in 2007. the undercarriage was rusted out and the left steering clutch weak. I did not operate it in the dirt as I should have to find those things out before I bought. Shame on me. He offered no guarantees with mine and the trucking pretty much assured I wouldn't take it back. He is strictly an importer and offers no service to speak of. He has been doing it for a long enough time so that I would guess he hasn't had to many angry customers. His deal is to back the machine out of the container and make sure it runs. Kind of like buying at an equipment auction but with a set asking price. That said after I have repaired a bunch of stuff on the machine it is now a little work horse. I wish it had a ROPS on it instead of the stupid plastic rain cover which vibrates like the dickens. John in Dallas
G-man, The earlier Dresser TD7C/E's were German made D-206, and D239 engines. Yours is quite a bit newer, so I believe the Cummins 3.9 is what's in it. Hope this helps, Zack
Thanks John I appreciate your comments, sir. I have read all of your posts here, along with everyone else's. It is unbelievable how much help some of these guys give on this website, especially Darin. I sure wish he was here in Texas instead of up in the cold north land. On my previous post, I had read up to page 45 before bedtime last night. Today when I got home from work, I started reading again and on the very next page was a post about KTOO and it was not one that spoke well of them at all. I was up there in April and looked at a D20, but didn't have enough time to check it very well. I am going back up there next week to run it and check some other things. When I called him earlier this week, he said his mechanic had just finished working on the drives and said it was ready to go. I will give it a good test run and see how it does. I have a 50 acre tree farm that has way too many sweetgums in the 1 to 6 inch diameter range and need to be cleared. It's too much for my small utility tractor so I'm thinking this little Komatsu will be ideal for it. If anyone else has any dealings with KTOO, please let me know of your experiences also. I would appreciate it greatly.
Thanks - Definitely helps.
Looking at KTOO D20 The D20pl-6A machine I bought is a wide pyramid track straight blade. ( It tilts down to either side but will not pivot left right.) That is not helpful when you need to finish grade which is what it was really designed for. It is an older 3 speed model and First gear is not really low enough for heavy pushing. I have grubbed trees out with it but that entails digging all around the root ball and then trying to push it over. I had to weld grousers onto the worn out pyramids to get any traction at all in clay. I put a 1 inch wide grouser on every other one, however every third one would have been better because the tracks need to slip a little rather than kill the engine. Also mud is your enemy with the D20 and wide tracks. At times it was all I could do to get the machine to move in 1st gear when it got loaded up with black clay mud. If I were to do it again ( and I had too much money) I would want at least a D35 with a hydrostatic trany and a blade that pivots left and right. The bigger machine with the extra horsepower and weight and a stronger under carriage would be better suited to tree clearing and pond digging. The D20-21's are a light finish grade machine. I haven't broken mine yet even though I do a lot of heavy pushing but I am very careful and listen for those telltale noises which might mean trouble. By the way I did hire a CAT D7 to hog out the deep hole for the pond then I spent a week cleaning up the mess he left with my little D20 putt putt and lots of patience. Happy motoring John
My Dresser TD7G specifies API CC/CD SAE-10W engine oil for use in the Hydraulic System which is separate from the transmission and torque converter. In a footnote it says the 10W oil used in the hydraulic system must pass the NO-2 test. Can anybody tell me what the NO-2 test is ? Does this make it special oil or can I use any good quality API CC/CD SAE-10W engine oil. Thanks.
I should have said TO-2 Test instead of NO-2 in the above post. Couldn't see an edit button ?
Nice looking pond More good info there John. The dozer I'm looking at has the standard grousers. I don't have any mud or that black gumbo that seems to be everywhere near Dallas. My ranch has red clay and sand and lots of gravel and clay mixed together. There are two gravel areas with literally tons of gravel embedded in the clay. I can easily rip it up with my box blade scarifiers and then push it into piles . I built a homemade sifter to separate the gravel out of the clay and. although it takes a little time, it will produce piles of gravel for me. The dozer should help with that project. I plan to build a pond also. I have a friend who owns a dozer service and he is going to bring his D6 and track hoe in to do the major work, like you had done. Then I'll finish it up with the Komatsu, if I get it, and my tractor and box blade. This is a project I have been planning for over 40 years. I helped build a pond with my neighbor when I was 17 years old using a Ford tractor and a disc and straight blade. I had a blast doing it and vowed I would someday build my own. I'm in no big hurry to get it done. It's going to be my retirement project, along with maintaining the tree farm. Good luck on your pond. Looks like you got a great start on it. By the way, I was flying back from our office in Addison on the company plane one day and saw a neat looking pond north of Mesquite that was shaped like the state of Texas. I wish I could do one of those too, but the terrain is not right for that shape. When I get rights to post pictures, I'll put the picture up that I took of it.
Texas Pond I got upload privs now, so here is the picture. [/IMG]
I have a d31, in the process of building a pond on my property in Mississippi. The dozer came with those pyramid shoes, I swapped them out for single grosers shoes, day and night difference. There are areas in the pond that has that black gumbo mud, the machine "floats" much better than when it had the pyramid shoes on. Before it would just ooze up between the shoes and start sinking. When pushing that mud I found it takes making light loads or it will bog down or lose traction, stuff is just nasty to work with. Even with 2 months of no rain there are areas where the ground is just like a big sponge. I assume it's ground water coming up. I've cut some big trenches to try and help drain some of it to the lower portion of the area
I hear ya about that gumbo mud, Monkey. It's some nasty stuff, especially when wet. I had the displeasure of working in it many moons ago in south Louisiana and will never forget how it oozed into everything that touched it. I can't imagine trying to run a dozer in that stuff, no matter what type shoes it has on it. If you have ground water coming up into it, maybe you can use it to your advantage to keep your pond full. My pond will, unfortunately, not have any constant feed on it. It will be a watershed pond that has about seven acres of pasture draining into it. I'm hoping that will be enough to keep it pretty full between rains. I'm heading out tomorrow to go check out the dozer at KTOO in Sulphur Springs. I need to read some of the posts here again to make sure I take the right tools needed for inspection of different things. I hope it checks out ok. I'm anxious to get it and start doing some dirt work. Thanks again to all who have posted here. It is a wealth of information.
yea it's nasty, well like I said it's been 2 months without rain, hmmm still managed to stick it Saturday :Banghead yeah water shouldn't be a problem you know you have water when these try and climb aboard with ya
Yep, that's one thing I definitely don't miss about Louisiana and Mississippi is the snakes. I grew up in South Louisiana and if I never see another moccasin, I'll be just fine. I've been going out to my tree farm for a little over a year now and have only seen one snake so far, and it was just a little rat snake. I notice the tracks of the dozer in that bottom picture are packed full of gumbo. It's as if it had glue in it. Good luck on your pond.
Lol, I'm actually in my excavator, yeah I've sunk almost to the top of the tracks. It's not bad when you first track out on to it, start doing a little work and it just starts sinking, I was trying to get the trench dug to try and lower the water table. Was able to pull myself out with the bucket, a little to close for comfort though, don't mind sticking the dozer now that I have the excavator out there, just not looking forward to sticking the hoe, lol
Well, I did it. I went to Sulphur Springs today and bought a D20A-6 from KTOO Equipment Sales. I gave it a thorough going over, based on everything I read here. I drove it in the parking lot, then I took it to the play area and dug some dirt with it. Before I fired it up, I checked all the fluid levels and greased all the zerts to make sure they would all accept grease. There were no problems with the fluids, and all the zerts took grease except for the track adjusters. He is going to have his mechanic replace them before it is shipped to my property next week. The mechanic replaced one of the seals in the final drive last week that was leaking. He pulled both drives while he was in it and checked everything. Before it left Japan, the clutch plates, tracks, rollers, sprockets and rails were all replaced. I had no problems driving it and digging dirt while changing directions, so I feel like everything is in good shape. I have to say that I was very impressed by Mr. John Daugherty, who, along with his wife Tammy, owns and operates KTOO. They treated my wife and I as if we were lifetime friends and went out of their way to fulfill every request we had. He gave me an operations manual and also gave me the complete shop manual to borrow so I can copy it. I am going to take it to a Kinkos and have the entire thing copied so I will be able to do any maintenance needed in the future. John and Tammy are trying to ease out of the dozer business now due mainly to health and the economy. He is selling everything on the lot and will probably give you a good deal on anything he has left. He has a few D21's, and a D31 or two, plus some excavators. I will, at this time, give them a thumbs up. Today was my first time on a dozer, and I was surprised at how easy it was to operate. He actually commented on the grading job I did on his parking lot and said he couldn't tell that I had never been on a dozer before. It was easy. Back up with the blade on float a couple of times and you have a pretty smooth surface. :cool2 You're (virtually) looking at one happy camper right now. Can't wait to start moving dirt. Woohooooo!
D41P-5 Manuals Hey guys. Another newbie here... I'm tring to locate operators, parts and service manuals for a Komatsu D41P-5 . Grey market. I'm in New Zealand, the -5 was imported from Japan(not by me, but prior to me purchasing it). As a result Komatsu Australia/NZ have no english manuals available for it and can only offer limited support due to different safety regs in Australasia. Basically, they won't help me. Does anyone in the forum have a copy of these they could scan and send? I'm willing to pay for them. Any nfo would be appreciated. Cheers, Dan.
anyone know where to find a thermostat for the d20? besides the dealer that is. got part numbers for a napa or carquest thermostat?
New Member Hello I'm a new member I bought my first dozer last week. It is a 1985 komatsu D31-P. I have 25 acres that I bought about three years ago and I have a lot of work ahead of me but it should be fun work. Last weekend I started on my two acre dove field in the back of my property. Later I will move to clearing the house site and then the driveway. I hope to have the manual in that I bought on-line next week but in the meantime does anyone know what kind of fluid goes in the three deep stick hole underneath the seat?
i have a sprocket press i made for a d41a-3 i might sell if anyone is interested has the ram the tubes and threaded peice that screws on the dead axle
I bought a D21A-6 from KTOO about 4 yrs ago and have put about 850 trouble free hours on it, I cleared a lot of trees, built a root rake for it that works great and moved tons if dirt, I was building a runway here at home and it's finally finished, I think they are great little machines.
HI Guys, Looking to buy a copy of a BD2H PARTS BOOK ,so if anyone can help,let me know. Disc or paper copy is OK.I have Paypal. Thanks, Jim
Jim, I'm still looking for one for my BS3F and the BD2G, but if you get one I'd be happy to PDF it for you. I'll keep my eye open, there was one for the bd2g on ebay, but It was too rich for me. Bubba
Hope I'm put'n this in the right place. Been a while since I got on this site. I've got an old D20 s -5 track loader. I decided to change the hydraulic oil, and the place where I got the oil recommended this "Special AW 32 Hyd oil". Well, it wasn't but a week or two and all four lift cylinders were leaking, especially when not in use. Don't have any manuals for it, so I didn't know any better. I'm hoping to get some guidance as to how to go about repacking the cylinders. I called the nearest dealer (100 miles) and the guy said he would check on the parts and call me back. Never heard from him. I've read good and bad about aftermarket kits, but don't know where to get'm around here(South Texas). Looks like the rods could be pulled without removing the cylinders, does that sound reasonable? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'll be doing the work myself. I'm not a cheapskate,,I'm on Social Security.
Hydraulic Oil Komatsu's don't like 32grade hydraulic oil at all. Your machine would most likely of had 10w hydraulic oil in the tank which is the best oil for the machine. Other grades can be used depending on ambient temp usually 15w/40 but it always best to check the operators manual. Any rod can be pulled out of the cylinder to be resealed then refitted. In my 20+years with Komatsu i've never seen 32grade oil in any Komatsu .H46 is getting more common now on excavators and wheel loaders,but it is not good to mix 10w with H46 oil .
Here is an online parts catalog that might provide some help for some of you: http://www.komatsupartsbook.com/ It does not have all gray market machines listed, but it does have a good bit of info. JCS
Thanks for the reply. Yeah, that place is not in business any longer. I should have checked further before using that stuff. What would be the best way to flush the system before refilling with the proper oil? Is it possible to find aftermarket parts to reseal the rods? I didn't have much luck with the nearest dealer, and the next nearest is about 200miles.
Clicked on the wrong "reply" button,, sorry. The reply was of course intended for Dr. Komatsu.
Thanks dblaneyfan, they didn't have the track loader listed, I sent in the request to do so, we'll see what happens. Lots of info there, Thanks again
GDW you can call Hercules hyd. at Seals: 1.800.777.5617 maby they can help. I would mention getting a loaded u cup in your kits if they have them. What the loaded u cup does is when a machine is working the u cup seal is designed to basically swell with hyd pressure. The higher the pressure the harder it seals. When its not running the u cups relax and oil can bypass in the head end of a cylinder. You see this a lot in track hoes not running with the bucket cylinder in the vertical position. The loaded cup has a plastic ring inserted in it to keep it tensioned even when not running. Steve
my D20A-6 calls for motor oil in the hydraulics, you can call 903-639-2765, he should have the seals you need, good luck
I do believe the AW 32 is 10 weight
Hello everyone. Need some help. I have a Komatsu D20-p that will no longer turn to the left. I have got some help and accessed the rear brakes and adjusted the left side. It still will not turn without tapping the brake pedal first and then it will turn perfect. Should I replace the brake clutches or something? Also had some older folks to tell me to add a washer to the adjustment bolt. Has anyone ever heard this. The right side works perfect. Machine has about 2500 hours. Any advise is appreciated. Thanks.
Sorry, Machine is a D20P-7
Does it "lug" the engine down a little when you pull the left brake? Could be the steering clutches are not disengaging?
Thanks monkey. I have no way of knowing if that oil caused a problem or not but, even if it's 10wt, it may have additives that komatsu's don't like. I have worked the little loader pretty hard at times clearing brush, and a few stumps that had it standing on it's nose, but it's strange that it never leaked until right after I changed out the oil. I'm gonna flush the system with 10wt and refill after re sealing the rods.
Thanks steve, I checked out their website,, looks like a good place to keep in mind. I'll call'em.
I am unable to read serial number on d21p. The plate is located on the right side in front of the hydraulic holding tank. Is there any place else on machine where these numbers may be. That's all I can read is Model # D21P below that is serial number which is completely worn off due to climbing in and out of machine. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
jford, there is a serial number stamped in the chassis of the left side looking at teh back of the machine by the hitch...upper left hand corner where the bolts holes with cork are located..... Hope this helps..
Thank you for the quick response.
Nope, no lug when i pull the the lever to the left. And there is no lug when I tap the break. Works perfect by taping the break and pushing the lever to the left.
Hi guys my D21P-7 has a leak around the lift (primer) pump, it seems that the lift tube rattles loos then fuel leaks up around the pump tube, I assime there is an o ring in there and it is worn, can you tell me how to replace the o ring Dozer
Hi RichardPK, not sure what kind of fitting connection you're working with, any way you can post a pic of it?
ATCO i am new to the forum but what i have read you have devoted several hours to helping people on here thats awesome, i posted on an older thread that someone started on a D31P-16 engine build cause im new and cant start a thread yet but was wondering about my dozer hydraulic oil, its a D31P-16 as well, i pinched a hydrualic hose and ran a bit before finding and replacing it, added some hydraulic fluid and have only ran it a few minutes to check hose since but i put hydraulic fluid back in it and after reading on here some not sure if that was the right fluid or not, and also wondering if there was a dipstick for the hydraulic fluid or just the bullseye glass below the right arm rest, and at what level should it be, thanks
I have a Komatsu D21A-5. Where can I purchase new or used track adjusters complete with springs and cylinders. Thanks, Frank
can someone please tell me what the vin numbers say this dozer it. serial number 62307. i just bought this thing for a really good deal and now i need to know what it is i bought. thanks matt
I rebuilt the track adjusters on my Dresser TD7G. Komatsu purchased Dresser I believe and I am able to get parts from Anderson Equipment. The one closest to me in Montpelier, VT is a Komatsu dealer. I think they all are. They have a branch in Bangor and a web site. I would try there for new or Nash in Colebrook, NH for used if you are near there.
I have a D21p-6. The left steering clutch started sticking if I let it set over a week, so I started tying the clutch lever back when not in use. That worked good for a while, but now, sometimes, the left clutch is noisey. If I hold both steering clutchs back at the same time, sometimes I can feel a "bump" every time the left clutch turns a revolution. I know the sticking was probably caused by rust on the plates, but does anyone know what the bumping could be? Sometimes it seems to bind also. Thanks, cblank
just the bullseye, fill it under the arm rest the correct oil baffles a lot of people. I run hydraulic fluid in mine and have for years. I believe most hydraulic fluid is 10w. The manual calls for 10w oil, just doesn't say hydraulic fluid. Rightly or wrongly, everywhere I went and tried to get straight 10w motor oil, counter sales people looked at me like I didn't know what I was yapping bout. I called my Komotsu parts guy, he said hydraulic fluid is fine....dunno, havent had a problem yet
Dan give me a ring I might be able to put you onto someone who knows alot about the D41-5 Phone 0220735562 Cheers terexkerry
I've got a d21. I set the parking brake and let it sit about a week. The right side brake will not release. The linkage is stuck forward with the petal released, and it just lugs the engine down while in gear. Where should I start looking to remedy this problem? Thanks.
the one under the seat is for the transfer case theone under the brake pedal is the transmission they both use straight 30 weight motor oil and to tighten your tracks there is a small cover on each side with a bolt in it remove the bolt open the cover and pump grease in the fitting until their tight enough...
On the subject of track adjustment. How much curve should there be in the top of the track between top carrier roller and either end track wheels ? I have a fiat 70ci and only has the one top carrier roller, should it be nearly straight without and dip or have a slight dip when adjusted properly, id like to know please. Garrie.
To tight is not good. To lose is better than to tight. Don't know about your Fiat but as an example on my TD7G which has one top roller and about 6 feet of track on the ground the correct track tension is between 1" and 1 1/2" droop between top roller and front idler when the rest of the track is tight.
Thanks very much for the reply,I have a fair bit more than that (approximately80mm) between roller and front idler, rear of the roller to backdrive has about what you have described, I didnt want to over adjust,you see some photos of tracks with no droop either side and to me look way too tight. thanks.
Hi guys im new here, i would just like to hear your suggestions ,I am working a D65EX-15 with common rail system does not start, the engine cranks but no smoke comes out, there is no active indication,all resistance in the injector are in normal range,I had already checked also the PCV 1 and 2.Thank you
Never saw any replies on this, but got the problem solved. Ended up being the cleanable (wire mesh) filter element. It was an easier fix than expected. With the top covers off, take the two 13mm bolts loose at the front bottom left of the transmission. Pop the cover off and catch the 8-15qts of 30wt that will come pouring out. The filter will likely wash out with the oil. Once I got the filter out, it was covered with grit, grime, and what looked like old gasket material from something. I sprayed it down with PB Blaster, then Carb cleaner, then water hose, then PB Blaster, then Carb cleaner. Looked a lot better so I gave it a gentle rubbing with a wire brush, then repeated the spraying process a couple of times. Assembly is the opposite of disassembly, but make sure you put the filter in with the open end facing out. If you don't, you'll have to get a really strong magnet and pull it back out (ask me how I know). Add a couple of quarts of oil, and then run it a little to circulate everything around before topping off. Previously, when I put it in gear, it would hesitate from 5-15seconds before starting to move. After cleaning the filter, as soon as I put it in gear, it jumped forward, and is now moving more consistently and better than ever. Also, if you are thinking about replacing the filter, get a price first. Local dealer quoted me somewhere around $300. Fortunately they were knowledgeable (and nice) enough to tell me it could be easily cleaned.
Its a strainer so yes it can be cleaned, I got a question though. What does your neighbour drive? 50 - 80 percent grade is pretty damn steep
A variety of vehicles: All wheel drive SUV (no problems), Rear wheel drive truck (gets a running start, spins all the way up), and Front wheel drive car (gets a running start, and doesn't spin MOST of the time), hahaha. The best part is that he is a grading contractor and has the equipment to fix it, but has been living there for almost a decade as it is.
Well my little D20p-7 still does not turn left without tapping the break. So after reading all the post, I checked the drain plug on the left underneath the rear and about a quart of oil or dope poured out. I proceeded in letting all the fluid drain and then cranked the dozer and it turned perfect. So what are the next steps to fixing the problem. I am assuming from all the post that there is probably a seal leaking. Is this something I can fix and what are the steps or pictures to fixing this. Again, thanks for all the wonderful posts on this forum, I have learned a great deal about these little dozers. Jimmy
Garrie Denny , G-man is right. the best way to check the track tension is to move the machine forward and let it roll to a stop, prefferably have a grouser stop directly above your carrier roller. Lay something straight ( 2x4 or piece of steel ) across that grouser and down over the front idler. Then step on the track ( to remove the slack from behind the carrier roller ) if you have to and midway between the carrier roller and front idler measure from your straight piece of down to the top of another grouser. 1 1/4" would be right for a machine that size but remember it varies with the type of material you are working in ( go a bit looser with material that packs in the tracks )
d20p-7 have a d20 key will not turn the injection pump on or engage starter injection shut off solenoid ticks when i turn key but will not turn on pump also will not turn over with key i had to unhook injection shut off and cross solenoid to get it fired any ideas?? thanks
Hi Guys. I saw a post that said the Komatsu line has 1000 / 540 rpm PTO and 3 point hitch set ups. How about some photos/ prints/part numbers/ stories? I am the guy with the D3b mounting a Brown Tree Cutter. I am always open to something that could improve the idea. Thanks, Jim
They don't, there are a couple posts in this thread about people wanting them, or wanting to make them, and a couple guys have.
I have a 1985 Komatsu D21A-5 Dozer. I need both the left and right track adjusters. That would be the cylinders with the grease fittings. I could also use the frames. If you want to sell them let me know. Thanks, Frank
Hello. I have a Komatsu D21a 2 speed dozer. The cable that shifts it from neutral to 1st and second is broke. I can't find a replacement but have found the cable that shifts it from forward to reverse. Does anyone know if these are the same cables? Thanks-Scott
Well, On my Komatsu D21A-5, I have looked everywhere for the track adjuster cylinders and found nothing. Since my cylinders leak, I either sell the machine for parts or find an inovative way to fix it. Has anyone devised a way to adjust the tracks another way? My machine only has 1800 hours and runs new. Shame to part it out or scrap it. Any Takers? Machine is in Hanover, Massachusetts Email me for a picture.
Just a thought. Use a horizontal hydraulic jack/ram between the spring and front idler yoke. You would have to cut away some things or you might even come up with a simple screw and pin setup. So long as the spring is left in to move for shock take up, something could be made up I would think. Creative machining and welding.
That';s a good thought. I just checked with Harbor Freight's web site for a bottle jack. I'd have to remove / unbolt / burn off all the track adjuster frame, leave the end of the frame for that one idler. Then cut the Yoke shaft to about 6", insert that end into a short lenght of pipe, insert the bottle jack neck into the other end of the pipe. I'd need to use part of the idler bracket to hold a plate for the end of the bottle jack. Do you think I really need the shock spring?
You will want to leave the spring so that the idler can move back with loading. A bottle jack will not work in a horizontal direction only vertical. It would take a ram like you see on the 10 ton manual wood splitter that HF sells. Or heck one of those short rams from a porta power type kit could be inserted with some way to lock it after adjusting.
Northern Tool sells horizontal rams that I think could work, all different tons and lenghts. Because I don't know, why does the idler need to move with the load? What would happen if the idler was fixed with no spring? The first dozers didn't have springs.
Could work, but I think it would be better if the unit was set to work like it was designed with just something else in place for taking up the slack. There should be some room on the push out rod for cut out and insertion. I have never tried doing this so it is just total brain storming. If you get it to work I am sure others will be interested in your method.
Since my track adjuster assembly is all rusted and corroded up on my Komatsu D21A-5, does anyone have a picture of their assembly hopefully not rusted and corroded like mine........Thanks, Frank
Don't know how close it is to the D31 that I have but here is a Thread that I had when mine needed work. HeavyEquipmentForums
Replaced track adjuster on my JD 350 dozer a couple of years ago with after market. It was fabricated flat bar and a tube welded on. A machine shop could make something to work or give you ideas to build it your self, would probably cost more than a bottle jack but might function better. Pictures might help with ideas for a remedy.
FurakawaMatt, The D31 track adjusters are the same configuration as the D21 except larger and thanks for the thread. It has lots of valuable info in it. Iron@Dirt, Is there a picture you can post so as to go with your discription of what you did? Did you keep the springs? And how do you adjust the tracks? The machine shops near me have no ideas but can make anything I can describe or show to them. Thanks, Frank
Why are you condemning your track adjuster cylinders? Maybe I have simply missed it, but I haven't read what the problem is with the cylinders that requires them being replaced?
willie59, My track adjuster cylinders and track adjuster frames, both sides, are rusted and corroded beyond use, one spring is broke. It's like only they were in salt water and not the rest of the machine. They are beyond rebuild or repair. It's only the track adjuster assembly that is rusted and corroded. The remainder of the dozer is in unbelievable shape for a 1985. It operates, starts and looks fantastic, that's why I'd rather fix the machine than sell or scrap it. Only 1800 hours. Thanks, Frank
i got a d21 a -5 and need some info.. so the power shif deal.. is it just reverse and foward? or is there any other ranges.. also. were can i get parts, i need a head gasket , head bolts valve cover gasket and exaust gasket,,, seems its got a crack in the head on the 3rd clyender
Tell ya what Frank, try calling Kent Baugh, he's worked on many of these machines, might have some ideas and possibly some parts. http://www.ktbaugh.com/
I call Kent several times in the past few weeks. At this time, all he has is the springs. Nothing else.............Thanks, Frank
troy 26, Brandeis is your local Komatsu dealer, might want to check with them. I have dealt with Tractor & Equipment Co. a good bit, mainly the Savannah branch, and they are good people to deal with.
Try contacting Southern Tractor Service and Salvage, based out of Davenport, FL.
I called them and they don't have the parts. But, Thanks for the info. Thanks, Frank
I havs a Dresser TD7 G. It has a solenoid operated ether injector. I am looking for some instruction on what type of ether cylinder is required and where I might get one if it is special. It looks like there is a bail type arrangement to hold the cylinder up into the solenoid but it is not at all obvious to me how it opens or what type of canister is needed. It must be some kind of plug in there now but not sure of that either. There is no info in my manuals so if you can help I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks
I decided to either fix the 1985 Komatsu D21A-5 or scrap it. So I pressure cleaned the track adjusters on both sides. They were in much better condition than I first realized. All the mud made them look really bad. I got my 24" long 1/2" breaker bar and 19mm deep socket. With lots of pressure, both grease fittings for the track adjusters came loose. I installed new grease fittings, put the grease gun on and now both sides take in grease and when loosened, release grease. Checked all the fluids, drove it around the yard and now it runs perfect. I also purchased and installed a 24 volt battery tender for the winter. I'll post pictures later. The machine runs great with no leaks. It has the factory canopy top so I think I'm going to get a ROPS top. Where can I get a ROPS for it? Also, is there a way I can install a 3 point hitch? Thanks, Frank
Gee that was a cheep fix. Can t beat success.
Now that my Dozer works good, I'm thinking of ways to use it. Has anyone thought of adding a bucket to their dozer blade to move dirt rather than push dirt. I like the 4 in 1 buck but I don't have the hydraulics for it. I do have plenty of 1/4" plate steel and 2x2x1/4 angle iron. Any ideas?.....Thanks, Frank
Well, just when I thought my 1985 Komatsu D21A-5 with shuttle shift trany, 2 speeds forward & 2 speeds reverse, was working good, another problem arises. All the fluids are of the correct SAE and of the correct amount. When pushing dirt forward, the dozer will stop in the dirt and the tracks will stop turning. When not pushing and just driving forward, it drives fine. In reverse, to get into my storage garage there is an 8" tall curb to drive up to the garage concrete pad, it won't make it up, is stops and makes a sound like a spinning clutch in the rear end. If I turn around and try it in forward it goes up the curb no problem. The dozer turns left and right as it is supposed to. Does anyone have any ideas with what's not correct? Thanks, Frank
Assuming your D21A is set up like most small dozers take the floor boards out so you can see the drive shaft between the T-converter and the Transmission. When the tracks stop if the drive shaft is still turning then you have a problem in the tranny where the gears and clutches are. If the drive shaft stops also the problem is probably in the converter. From your description it sounds like your forward and reverse clutches may be slipping. Reverse being worse. If you have a manual there may be a test procedure and/or adjustment procedure and there may be a removable access plate for clutch inspection.
New member. I have been following for awhile and learning. I just pulled and repaired both clutches on my d21a6, however I am having problems insallind clluch covers back,is there a trick to this?
New member. I have been following for awhile and learning. I just pulled and repaired both clutches on my d21a6, however I am having problems insallind clluch covers back,is there a trick to this?
New member here, I know this will be a dumb question, however, I have ran my new to me Kamatsu d31 out of fuel. What is the easiest way to prime the pump and start it. I see a small bleeder on top of the fuel pump, start there?
Here is the priming sequence for a 1981 D31 Not sure what yours is but the steps will be similar.
Well, I took out the Komatsu D21A-5 yesterday to see if the forward and reverse situation solved itself by sitting for a few days and getting rest. With the engine just above idle, the tracks won't spin on concrete if up against a cement wall, but with a lot of RPMs they spin like crazy. In reverse, same thing. With high, not crazy, RPM, the dozer pushes and climbs the curb as it should. I graded the neighbors whole driveway just to test it. Neighbors happy and the dozer seems better. Why won't it act the same at low RPM ??????? Thanks, Frank
Thanks Matt, got her running and now I know! Sure this won't be my last visit here....
Hey Frank, Where did you get your 24 Volt battery tender? I just got the idea to do the same thing when I saw your post. I'm curious to know what you think of yours now that you have it and are using it. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Hi Patrick, This is the one I purchased on Amazon.com: Battery Tender 022-0158-1 Waterproof 24 Volt Power Tender Plus Battery Charger . It charges and maintains my batteries on my Komatsu D21A-5. What I like about it is that my batteries are always at maximum charge. Thanks, Frank
My Komatsu D21A-5 is now operating just as it should. Maybe because it sat inside not used for a year or two made it sleepy. Now it runs like a new machine. Tracks pull thru out the whole RPM range. Now I want to add a 3 point hitch. Rather than a winch for up and down, I'd like to tap into the hydraulic system and mount a quick disconnect valve on the rear panel. I already have the 3 point hitch arms from a large John Deere tractor. I figured I could fabricate a mount plate for the dozer, replace the factory hitch and use a hydraulic cylinder, power up and down, to run it. Where can I tap into the hydraulic system and are they metric or ? Has anyone done this ??? Thanks, Frank
I finally got around to starting my D21a-6 that I bought a couple of months ago. It had been sitting for an indeterminate time when I bought it. I had never owned anything this little before, but it was a deal I couldn't refuse. Both tracks were stuck, so we just used the 25-ton Grove to lift it onto the lowboy. Owner said it had transmission trouble, but when I checked, it was just the forward- reverse cable. I put batteries in it and it cranked right up. The brakes broke free relativly easily, but the left one was badly out of adjustment. So far, all I've really found wrong with it is that cable, and one dripping cylinder. One wierd thing is that the blade tilt only goes a few degrees to the right, and a long way to the left. The collapsed length of the cylinder is too long. I wonder if this is a peculiarity of these critters, or if the the cylinder has been replaced?
Oil Change Komatsu D21 Would it be ok to change the cranckcase oil, etc. by using a vacuum suction pump down the filler tubes so as not to have to crawl under the dozer? Thanks
d20p-6 fluid 15-40 and hyd fluid only? This is a very useful site. Thanks everyone.I recently purchased a d20p-6 and was told by the previous owner to use multi purpose tractor hydraulic fluid for the hydraulic system and 15-40 wt oil for everything else. That sounds simple enough but after reading through the posts most of you seem very strict on using different weights. It is usually fairly warm here but we are approaching winter and might go through a few freezes. Im assuming the viscocity varies with the ambient temps and ours are normally high. Can anyone tell me if this is safe or not. Thanks in advance.
I can't tell you if it is safe or not, but I will tell you that the owner's manual suggests using a 10w30 or 15w40 engine oil in the engine crankcase and the hydraulic system. Meanwhile the transmission and differential housing are listed as needing sae 30w engine oil. Hope this helps you some.
Frank, thanks for the reply. After posting my question to you, I did some searching and found the charger you mentioned in your reply, albeit before you replied. Having the confirmation that it works well is nice to hear though. I have had good luck with Battery Tender products through the years. Thanks again.
i have a d 20 p 5 that has been great... until we parked it for several months. the right track is stuck. i pulled up the floor board and found that the linkage seems to be stuck. i can bump it back but every time you pull the brake handle it sticks again. AND even when it looks like it is in the correct balanced position with the left one, the track is still locked. PS it is for sale if anyone is looking lless than 150 hrs on pins and sprocket new bottom rollers had a specific project i needed a dozer for.. done
Send me your contact info and I can put you on a fixer for your machine . . .
Explain to me how the clutch pack works I have a d21p-6 that we had new steering clutch packs installed August before last because the left side would not turn. It worked for a while but now, it is doing the same thing. I've put maybe 30 hrs on the machine since. The left side pulls, but won't disengage and I thought that the brakes were bad, but when I pulled back both steering handles, it turned right, so the left side is sticking. Before I go back in, can someone explain to me how the clutch pack disengages? I know that there is a small hydraulic cylinder(?) that presses against an arm in the case. What happens to the clutch then? I pushed on that arm and nothing happened. Can someone in the know explain it to this big dummy?
Here is a link to a shop manual for your D21P-6. Maybe it will be of some help. http://www.megaupload.com/?d=1KJS4J89 Good luck.
Sorry, the above is a dead link. PM me if you need the shop manual and I get it to you.
Okay, I now have a good link for the D21P-6 shop manual. Let me know if there are any problems accessing it. http://min.us/mboNuLGSb1 All the best.
Link worked great, thanks very much. Mitch
The new link worked great. Thanks Bubba
Does anyone own a Shop Manual for the 4D95S-W-1 Engine that is used in -6 and (I believe) -7 models? It is referred to as the 95 Series Engine Shop manual. I am trying to find out what the part number for that manual is. I have found a manual that I can purchase that is printed in 1998 but I need to know if that printing will still be accurate for a 1987 era engine that I need to repair and rebuild.
I have created this account for my father. He has a Komatsu d21p and had a few questions I hope to find some answers on here. If anyone can give me some answers that would be great thank you in advance. First question is The dipstick found on the floodboard in the front, what is it for and what type of fluid? Second question The dipstick found in the back on the floorboad what is it for and what type of fluid? Third question is On the tracks close to the rear there are plugs on each side what are these for and what goes in them? I have read other post about the dipsticks and viewed the information but I was unsure if you use regular motor oil or is there a specific type. Again I hope this makes sense and someone can help thank you much. Michelle.
the front one is for the transmission, SAE30w motor oil, the one at the rear is the bevel gear, SAE30w motor oil, the plugs on the rear case, the final drives, SAE30w motor oil, you will find a plug on the inside bottom of each final drive, this is the drain plugs, the hydraulic system takes either SAE10w, SAE10w-30 or SAE15w-40 your choice on these, these machines use automotive motor oil for everything, hope this helps.
thank you Thank you so much this was very helpful. So glad I found this website. Thanks again and God bless.
I personally wouldn't do that as I don't think it would get all the stuff that might be sitting down by the drain plug. I just changed the oil on my D20A-6 the other day and was amazed at how easy it was. One thing that helped was that I drove the dozer over the area I was going to park it for the oil change, then scraped the area between the two track marks and pushed and pulled the dirt onto the two track marks, making two small, long, and narrow hills. Then I drove it up on these hills, laid cardboard underneath it and found that I had lots of room to crawl under and pull the cover plate and the drain plug. I was done in less than 30 minutes time. It took longer to get the oil filter off and replaced than it did to drain the pan.
Thanks - New member - had a d21s-5 for about 12 years now - repaired nearly everything on it until today I pulled the transmission apart because it was slipping. Many of the friction plates surfacing have broken apart. I have been using SAE30w oil, but what we buy today is very different from what it was back in 1984 when this machine was made. Lots of other additives ? Has there been any debate on which is the best oil that will not damage the friction plates ? BTW - the transmission is not all that hard to dissasemble - getting it all back together may be a challenge. Next .. all you from US and Canada that have trouble finding parts - email me what you need - here in Malaysia we still have thousands of small, but excellent, workshops - example Rebonded my brake shoes for about USD30 - relined all my steering cluthes for about USD50 - parts to rebuild my engine for about USD250 - remanufactured the final drive pinion to original hardness USD120 + all undercarriage bits Thanks for a great forum ....
"Pushed on that arm" - I use a 6 foot crowbar - it takes a lot of force - the clutch pack is normally engaged - there are some heavy duty springs inside the clutch pack. It may be that you are not getting sufficient oil pressure in the slave cylinder - there is a square head bleed valve on the back of the slave cylinder - open a bit and with engine running push the valve on the side of the slave cylinder closed to allow oil in - the same as pulling the steering arm. Make sure all the air is out and a good flow of oil then tighten the bleed valve. As it works on one side and not the other then your oil pump (at front of transmission) should be ok. Operation - pull steering arm - valve on slave cylinder depresses - oil is allowed into slave cylinder - pushes piston against arm - arms depresses springs inside clutch pack - which opens the pack allowing free rotation. Keep pulling steering arm and your brake should work.
I'm new here and not sure if this where im supposed to post? I have a question hopefully someone can help me out. I recently bought a d20a and it's been sitting a long time. When I try to steer right it lugs the engine down but won't stop the track from turning. I think that the brake is working like it should but the right clutches are stuck causing it to choke the engine down. If this is my problem then what do I need to take apart to check? Thanks for any help.
This sounds right - first get the workshop manual - dblaneyfan posted a link to one on the 20/1/2012. It is pretty straight forward to remove, but a knuckle buster getting at the bolts that hold the clutch pack in, then lifting it straight up. See how you go - ask when need help ! Probably rusted together - pull out clutch pack - dismantle - clean and check - put back in. There is a drain plug under the case - make sure that there is no water inside the case - this could be the cause of seizing.
At high RPM you are overcoming the loss of friction in the transmission clutches. These are either worn (spec is 3mm - 2.7mm) or like mine the friction plates have partly broken apart. Drain the transmission oil, pull out the filter and the filter housing and check whether there are little black pieces of friction plate in the bottom of the case. If you need to rebuild the transmission, download manual and read carefully before pulling transmission out - it sounds difficult but is not really that hard. I am currently doing mine - 6 of the 8 plates have lots of pieces missing - but it still ran !! Luckily I have complete rebonding facilities here - so cost should be minimal. I will let you know when I get all the seals and Orings as well.
If one track stops then it is your track clutch, if both stop then it is the clutches in the transmission. The transmission has four clutch packs inside - it uses two for each action - forward one, forward two, reverse one, reverse two. See workshop manual for a great writeup. So - one of two (at least) of your transmission clutches is borderline at least. But best to check them all - you will need to pull it all apart anyway. These clutch packs are simple multiplate (2 or 3 depending on model) packs, with the wear really only occuring on the friction material - so if you can get them locally rebonded then the cost is small - just two oil seals and some O rings are needed as well.
D-21 How do you adjust clutch.
Hey guys, on my D31E, I have a grease leaking recoil spring assembly and want to install new seal and packing. Do I understand correctly from other posts, that this can be accomplished without having to disturb or fool with the actual spring and its containment? thanks in advance
also, does anyone know the length of the spring when fully relaxed?
selling my dozer I have a 1988 D20A-6 in good condition that I am going to be selling, 2900hrs on a working meter, if interested, contact me at [email protected] for photo's and info.
There is a screw thread and lock nut at the top of the bar that compresses the clutch pack that the clutch hydraulic piston acts on. Although in 12 years I have not had to adjust a steering clutch. I have replaced the friction discs. But see whether you can adjust it, or maybe your hydraulic pressure is not sufficient to push the lever, or your slave cylinder is faulty (leaking). Also check that your control levers are depressing the piston (small) on the slave cylinder completely. If this is not fully depressed then the slave cylinder will not be getting enough oil pressure to act on the clutch.
Yes, remove the track, and then just pull out the idler wheel with its' hub and the piston attached. Then you will see the seal inside the cylinder.
Thanks Terry It acts like its froze it was working fine last time I used it sit for 6 months and now one side won't pull and lever on that side will not go down. how big of a job is it to replace clutch. sparke
"One side won't pull" sounds like the brake is jammed (possibly corrosion if it has been sitting). By "won't pull" do you mean the track will not turn? the clutch is normally engaged so that will not stop the track from turning, only will stop it from disengaging ! Describe symptoms in detail....
Terry No it will turn I worked it for an hours thinking it might break loose the left side does not have power. I took the top plate off on that side and saw the adjustment for clutch but not sure which way to move screw. thanks
So - summarize - is this correct? - your dozer goes round in circles because one track is not turning ? or does the engine stall ? I'm not sure which plate you took off, or which adjustment you are refering to ? Lets get this clear before you go any further. Explain every symptom and every action that you do - such as put in first gear, right track turns, dozer goes round in circles etc. I do not think it is clutch adjustment, but I need to be clear as to what you are experiencing before giving you further advice.
It goes stright unless you go up hill then it will go in a circle ,the plate I took off is the one on the back left that the brake lever goes into it has about 10 bolts that holds it on. The adjustment i'm talking about is the one that the hyd. piston moves thats under the cover. thanks jerry
Previously you mentioned that "the lever on that side won't go down" - which lever ? First, it is unusual for a clutch to get stuck open - their normal position is closed. And you would normally be experiencing a slipping clutch long before it stopped working completely. The way I check mine is to put the dozer on blocks so the tracks can still turn. Then in a gear (either forward one or reverse one)(both tracks should be turning)pull the steering arm on each side until the clutch operates ( you will see the small piston on the clutch slave cylinder depressed) and not far enough to start the brake operating. The track should stop rotating. If in gear and no track turning then check that the slave cylinder is being disengaged - your links may be stuck. If all links and slave cylinder seem ok (compare what happens on one side to the other when you pull a steering lever) but track is still not turning then check your clutch rotation with the cover off - you should see rotation coming from the bevel gear, but not being transmitted through the clutch pack - now make sure that your clutch is not being held open by the yoke (the big ring with arm that your slave cylinder act on, and has the clutch adjustment bolt and lock nut at the top) (if you are looking at the clutch pack then you have the top cover off so the slave cylinder will not be pressing on the yoke). If clutch us not being held open, and power is not going through it then this will confirm definatively that it is your clutch that has collapsed. The clutch plates can be rebonded to save cost. Specs are in the manual. If you drive it on ground, then it can go straight until under load - like you experienced, but until you actually look at the transmission of power through the clutch you are not sure - it could be the pinion gear has shredded in the final drive - mine did once !
Thanks Terry On the yoke clutch adjustment whitch way do you move the bolt to make sure clutch will be engaged. I would think you would shorten the distance from cly. piston. thanks jerry
As the clutch is normally engaged, pushing the yoke against the clutch housing (by way of the slave cylinder piston being pushed out) opens the clutch - therefore moving the bolt away from the slave cylinder lets the yoke get pushed out to the limit of the clutch springs, giving the clutch maximum compression / engagement.
Hey Countryboy, as a new member I clicked on the "NEW MEMBERS" red lettering to private message you to ask how to put a photo under my "new member" name and it sats I don't have privilages. How otherwise do I contact you for this info?
I have a d 21a-6 with bad cluches how bad of a job is it and does ony one have a shop manual.
jearl, look back a couple of pages, there is a link to a downloadable manual that works well.
Great site. 1st time dozer owner,with no manual yet. Couple ?'s. D21p-7 When you first start up no steering to the right until it seems to warm up. The more it runs the better it gets. I'm going to check steering adjustments. When you pull steering to the right it seems to have no resistance. Also when running dozer across open ground motor will sputter (react) to ground roughness.
Welcome buck, Below is a link to a Komatsu D21P-7 (also D20P-7, D21A-7, D21S-7) service manual. Maybe this will help a little. http://min.us/mLNVKfJwU#1o Best, J
I have a very similar problem with my d21p6 . I replaced the steering clutches last summer.Every thing was working perfectly until I started to use it this week. It worked great two weeks earlier. Now it turns to the left but when I try to turn to the right it does nothing, the engine does not seem to lug down. it is if the left track isn nor turning. I hane taken the seat floor board etc off, and it seems that all the visible linkages are the same left and right. any help or advice would be greatly appeciated.
answer to my own Question I finally decided to back my ears and dive in, I pulled the left clutch assembly. Three of the clutches had lost the lining, no indication of exesive heat. Oh well , I have some new ones on the way. This time I will pay more attention to the instructions in the manual,along with the specs. By the way this is a great forum, and I have learned a lot from it over the last year when I traded aHarley for my D21P6.
It will be interesting if you can figure out what happened. Keep us posted. I too am learning here.
Hi all. New to this forum. I've read the thread from start to finish and learned alot. It is really nice to know there are so many helpful people out there. I really appreciate everyone's contributions. I've always had larger dozers for ranch use, but no longer have the ranch or need for the equipment. I now have a d21A-7e with about 1000 hrs that I bought 2 years ago. Successfully completed the 1k service without incident. I have had a starting problem. The "safety module" seems to have failed. A replacement was about $500 so I bypassed it with direct wires to the solenoid (with a cut-out). I would like to make it right though. Can the "small box" attached to the safety module be replaced without compromising the other functions of the safety module? FYI I thought this was a solenoid problem and replaced such with an after market one for about 1/3 the Komatsu price.
g man; Just thought i'd let you know about that clutch problem. There was some of the clutch lining missing from two of the plates and all from another. I finally got it back together and it works(with new clutches of course). This job is not all that difficult if you take your time and don't get flustered. I got a set of manuals with the dozer. They must be photo copies, since you have to have a pretty good imagination to use the pictures, and some of the good to know info is let out of the text.
Thanks for the update- I'm alittle slow, sorry. Why do you think your clutches wore out so quick since replacing them last summer / gg
My question is do I access the stering linkage thru the floor panel or the rear sear area panel to adjust the steeering linkage??
I was also checking to see if anyone would have a guess on what a d20p-6 with about 1800 hours on it?? I am thinking about selling it. Its a great machine dont have muchuse for it much anymore.
Thanks to Darinray for the quick responce with the parts to fix my leaky hydraulic ram. good service. Glen2
Has anyone changed a starter on a d21a6? My cables at the starter are fried! Not sure what caused this! Any help would becappreciated!Thanks
just testing
My dozer is a D20A-6 version. I had something happen last weekend that had me baffled for a while and thought I would share it in case it happens to someone else. I recently had replaced the two grease fittings that adjust the track tension and had adjusted the tracks to the settings shown in the manual. Later that same day I did some work in my new pond area for about three hours and the dozer worked very well. Last weekend, I got back on the dozer to wallow out a small wildlife pond where a drainage ditch was. As I was driving the dozer to the site, about 200 yards from its parking space, it suddenly quit wanting to turn. When I would pull back on either steering lever, it wouldn't turn and would cause the engine to load down to the point where it woudl die if I kept pulling back on the lever. I tried backing up with the same result. I tried jerking the levers back quickly and hard one at a time, but that didn't help either. I was in an area where I had been moving a lot of dirt recently so I put the blade down and pushed a little dirt while trying to turn again. Suddenly the steering returned to normal, so I turned around and headed back to my maintenance area. On the way back, it started acting up again. Once again, I tried putting the blade down and pushing dirt, which once again freed it up. When I got to the maintenance area, I jumped off on the right side to take a closer look. The right side track looked fine, so I walked around to the other side. The left side track was very tight and had no droop in it at all. I had just adjusted it to the specs in the manual and it definitely had droop in it after the adjustment. But, for some reason, it had tightened up on me since. I didn't think it was possible for it to tighten up like that without adding more grease in the adjustment fitting. And I still don't understand how it did. But I backed out the fitting and released some grease anyway, and readjusted the track back to spec. I got back on and headed back to the work area with no more problems. I dug the small pond out with no problems either. I don't know why a tight track makes the steering do as it did, especially when trying to turn either way. Or why pushing against something and loading it would make it start working again. But if you have steering problems like this, I suggest you check the tightness of your tracks first. I thought I had a serious problem, and am very glad it was so easy to fix.
I don't know how those are put together so maybe I shouldn't comment but if it were mine I would be looking for something that is moving on you. I would look hard a the final drives and track frames. Your instinct that tracks don't tighten by themselves is probably right
Happy Owner of a New to me D20p "not sure what series" Had to Come to Work to Keep my Darling little Dozer Running , Bought it 2 Weeks ago at an Equipment auction in LaGrange TX. She looks Like shes seen some Rough Service[ has a welded Blade mount] , But Runs like a Top , takes about 20 seconds of Starter turnin to fire the little girl up. But once she Does she's smooth as glass , backed her off the trailer and within an hour had pushed up a good enough Weesatche brushpile for a good ol bonfire when i get home from my tour. I'm a newbe on this post , so I wont spoil peoples reading with my little post. I would like to express my gratitude to the senior members on this post for being honest, friendly, and helpful throughout all 99 pages that I have read in Detail From Cover to Cover So to Speak. And am glad to be a member of this forum ; Look Forward to Posting pics of Her soon ! God Bless All!
I'm looking at a D21P-7 with 20 inch swamp shoes. I would like to know if the 11.8 inch single grouser shoes that come standard on the D20 will fit it. I'm looking for more traction since I don't have much mud or sand to work in.
I just purchased a Komatsu D20P-6 serial number 70731 dozer. Can anyone tell me what year it is?
If anyone knows you can email me at [email protected]
Looks like it's a 1991.....
Yes they will fit it fine but it will look quite a bit different. If I were you I would go with a 14" shoe... If you need some prices just email me at [email protected] ...
thanks!
Terry V. You are exactly right. In fact Komatsu put out a warning some time ago about not using certain newer 30 weight oils in the transmissions(hydroshift) because they are too slippery and will damage the trans. I don't recall the letters designating the newer oils but you are right. I've read the warning several places on the internet although I don't recall where but the dealer should have the info. Who would have thought an oil can be too slippery? DBS
D20A-6 replaced steering clutches and breaks Hi All, I just finished up removing and replacing the steering clutches and breaks on my D20A-6. What a mess, the steel clutch plates were rusted beyond belief, the clutch friction discs were not much better and the drums have uneven wear. It was truly amazing it worked at all. Also the needle bearings for the break engaging shafts going through the cover plates were frozen solid which made it even more difficult to pull the levers to engage the break bands. Also because those needle bearings and shafts were so frozen I often had the breaks constantly locking up (breaks not releasing after releasing the lever). This took me about 4 days working by myself with basic tools. I did make a few special tools to compress the clutch springs and to press out and re-install the needle bearings but that was not too much a big deal. I do have a question – what is the gap supposed to be between the clutch releasing cylinder piston and the clutch lever pin? There is no reference in the shop manuals, there are pictures but no spec on the gap or how to adjust the distance between the adjusting bolt (pin) and the cylinder piston. Anyone know what that’s supposed to be or have experience setting that? Thanks millions, Larry More pictures to follow.......
More pictures..... I did some clean-up, sand blasting (allot of sand blasting) and painting, added new springs on the break bands and wow looks much better now. Also a few pictures with the new clutch / break drum and new break band installed. Sure is nice to work with new or clean parts. Larry
Here is the gap I am talking about What is it supposed to be? Thanks, Larry
Another fine project you did larry. WOW you sure made here look purdy. First I would clean your steering clutch pistons free of paint so you don't wipe the o ring seal in the housing and then soak your brand new steering clutches and brake bands. The manual states (under installation of bevel gear) like 121 mm from the center of the machine to the slip yoke bolt head. Very vage and hard to determine so I actually go by pushing the slip yoke all the way till it contacts the steering clutch release plate and adjust the bolt in or out until it visually looks like it will just contact the cylinder. With your housing already mounted to the frame it will be hard for you to determine by looking at it... plus it's freshly painted. Hope this helps some and contact me anytime...
Hi Darin, Thanks for the kind compliments and thanks for taking the time to reply. I have cleaned off the paint from the piston as you suggested and will adjust the bolt to the depth until it just touches the piston. Before installing the steering clutch case covers I broke free the adjuster bolts so i can turn them by hand from the outside and still lock them down with the locking nut so it's no big deal to adjust them from the outside. Whan you say "soak your brand new steering clutches and brake bands" soak them in what? Again thanks for supporting me and all the members of the forum - you are a valuable resource. Larry
WOOOPSS. I shouldn't have worded it that way I guess.. I meant that if you didn't clean your steering clutch cylinder that COULD wipe out the oring seal WHICH would allow oil to escape and soak (don't want that) your new clutches and bands if not caught in time.
Hi Darin, OK I get it now, I interpreted your information incorrectly So no soaking the break bands or clutch friction disks in oil on purpose When I had everything apart I went ahead and replaced the large O-rings inside the hydraulic clutch release pistons, the backing rings were OK so I just cleaned them up. Besides that Xomat$u wanted 25 bucks a piece for a simple plastic ring and 44 bucks a pop for the steering case cover gaskets . I made my own gaskets @ 2 for 5 bucks. The Needle bearings and seals were reasonable but the splined shafts that go through the steering case covers that actuate the breaks were, well....... lets say I got the shaft on those, but at least they had them. All in all it was worth it though because it steers as smooth as butter now. You saw how bad those steel clutch plates were right? In the winter very often the steering clutch's would not release because the plates were literally frozen or simply rusted together. I have a feeling at one time this machine got stuck and sank in some bad muck and sat there for months, if not years, then never cleaned up or dried out. But amazingly I have been running this machine for about 3 or 4 years like it was. Next I'm going to start saving up for some new tracks, replacing those might be fun ointhead Larry
Nice report and photos GuglioLS. Thanks. You will have fun doing the tracks when you get to them. I did mine by myself, without any special tools, last summer on the TD7G I had just gotten. The tracks were so worn I didn't have to break them to get them off. A lot of bull work involved but I made good use of my tractor and logging winch.
Sounds good. I know one thing... IF YOU ever sell that machine to someone they sure will be getting a nice one. When you do something you do it right the first time even if it hurts the wallet.. Keep in mind Im a u/c dealer. hint hint.
I have d21a6 and all the oil is the same 30w motor oil. The one closest to the brake pedal is the Transmission case, the one under the seat is the transfer bevel gear case, all of them use the 30 weight oil etc maybe with a little difference in temp depending on how cold it gets in your area, I use the straight 30 weight.
I have a D21P-7E. I bought the operators and maintenance manual but it was listed as for the D21P-7A. I've done alot of reading on the D21 but I am yet to hear what the last letter in the model designation means. Anyone know? Thanks, DBS
I have a D20A-6, the pins are about ready to be turned, I've heard that it is better cost wise to just wear them out and replace chains and sprockets, any feedback would be appreciated.
Around here I pay around $700 for labor to do a p&b change... So to turn them you are basically looking at that kind of bill....Or at least I would be here. So instead of $1550 for the set of new chains plus delivery charges that I would have to charge when selling them you would be better than half the costs if you turned them instead of wearing them out... I have not just turned them YET because it's not a good selling point when reselling machines due to the internal wear you still have so I have always just replaced them with the kits I have....
I posted about a problem I was having with the steering of my D20A-6 back on post 1484 on page 99. All has been well since then until this weekend when I started having problems again. To recap briefly, I can turn left and right just fine, push a blade full of dirt or slice and curl clay most of the time. But the problem I am having once again, and quite frequently, is when I pull back either handle to turn left or right, I get no turn and it appears as if I had stomped on the brake with the clutch out, and the motor loads heavily. If I don't release the handle soon, it will kill the motor. First of of all, let me say that this dozer is used almost every weekend, and for several hours in many cases. So it doesn't sit idle and have a lot of time to rust up clutch plates and such. Saturday, since we had been without rain for a while, I spent about eight hours cleaning out the pond of silt, and also carving out new clay on the sides and bottom. It worked flawlwssly all day long with no problems at all. Sunday, it was a different story. About 30 minutes into pushing dirt I started getting the problem again, and it was happening almost constantly. I could bury the blade, or jerk the turn levers hard and release them a few times and it would sometimes return to normal operation. Sometimes it was almost impossible to make it quit. In frustration, I put it away and worked with my tractor instead. Now, I understand the basic operation of the steering system. I have the shop manual and it explains that you pull back the lever a bit and the steering contol valve is actuated to release the pressure plate and disengage the inner drum from the outer drum. Pulling farther back will engage the brake for that side and cause a sharper turn. It seems to me that I am never releasing the pressure plate on either side, so the brake is being energized while the clutch is still engaged. Am I correct? If so, and this were your machine to fix, what would you think the problem would be? Is it a linkage problem? Or is it a steering brake band adjustment problem? Or is it something else? I have never adjusted anything on this dozer in the year and a half I have owned it except the tracks. All fluid levels are at the proper levels. The tracks are adjusted to spec. I don't know of anything wrong with it except this problem and a hole in the seat. I don't want to go jacking around with any adjustments until I have an idea of what the most likely cause may be. I would love to hear any and all recommendations. I will be heading back out on Saturday morning and sure need to use the dozer, so I hope I can get this solved and get back to work. I'm looking forward to hearing your suggestions. Thanks for taking the time to read this. Red Rock Rancher
Hmmmmmmm..... If it was linkage you should be able to see that well enough with a flashlight while running it... I'm figuring not because it happens to both sides and would still try to turn in whatever direction you were pulling the lever in... Basically i would put a pressure gauge on the control valve to see if you are in fact losing oil pressure not allowing the clutches to disengage. Maybe you have to clean the main clutch oil strainer and change the oil for a easy try. Keep us posted..
That sounds like a plan to me. Thanks Darin. I will let you and everyone else know what I find.
I am a new owner of a d21a-7 and have a few questions plz. What are the three plugs that are located underneath the rear bottom of the dozer. I am missing one of them. What are these plugs for plz. Thanks
Howdy and welcome, If I understand correctly two of those plugs are for cleaning out the steering break / steering clutch case cavity (the two located closest to the rear track sprockets) the one in the center is to drain oil out of the rear end drive, hopefully the one in the center is not the one that's missing Larry
No, thank goodness. The one on the right side next to the track is missing. Thanks for your reply
I am new so plz bear with me. How do you greace the large ball that holds the blade to the c-arm? I pump grease in the zerk on top and nothing appears to happen. Thanks
I had the same issue, the zerk was okay, the issue is inside that ball there is a hole drilled straight down from the zerk about half way down, then a hole clean through the ball horizontally. The horizontal hole is probably completely clogged. To fix, remove the front half of the clamp that holds the ball, find where the hole is supposed to be, then use a small drill bit and clean it by hand. It's very tedious but keep at it and eventually you will get the hole cleaned out all the way. Also remove the zerk and with break cleaner clean out all the grease, the break cleaner is a very thin solvent that may work it's way down the zerk channels to help loosen up all the old caked dirt, grease and metal shavings. Good luck with it.
Goodness what a job, but i got it. thanks a ton for the tip.
D21a-7, what is the little black dial just to the right of the key? Thanks Does anyone know where i can get an owners manual for this thing? Thanks
I had the same problem, checked the oil in the clutch, none on the dipstick, filled it with oil, problem solved.
I had my water well drilled Thursday and Friday, and I had some business to attend to on Saturday, but Sunday I finally had a chance to look into this steering problem. First, I pulled the seat and floorboard out, which was a lot easier than I thought it would be. What a mess it was down in there. Last summer I was doing a lot of clearing of scrub trees and vines and briars and I think half of it went down in the linkage area. I cleaned it all out real good and then checked the steering linkage. When I pulled back on the handles, they were both engaging the little actuator fingers on the steering clutch valve assembly. I didn't adjust anything, but I did lubricate all the linkage wherever there was a place that could use it. I put it all back together and tried it out. It worked fine for a minute, then started bogging the engine and not turning once again. I didn't have time to drain the clutch housing and clean the strainer this time, so I was just going to put it up until next weekend. For some reason, even though I had checked all the fluid levels last weekend, I decided to do so again. Everything looked good except the clutch. It was not even registering on the stick. I filled it up to the proper level, and lo and behold, it worked like a champ for the rest of the day. I put it through its paces and never had a steering problem one. So now I'm wondering, where is it leaking fluid. I parked it for a couple of hours while I was on the tractor, then when I put it up, I walked back to the place I had parked it temporarily and noticed there were a couple of spots on the ground where something had leaked out. But it wasn't a large quantity at all. More like a quarter cup or less. I am thinking it is pushing it out more so during operation. Anyway, next time I am under it to change the oil, I will check the clutch area for leaks and see what I find. Until then, I will be checking the fluid level every time I go to use it and make sure it is topped off. A lesson was learned. Thanks again, Darin, for the pointer. In actuality, you were right on. It had no pressure in the steering valve assembly because there was no fluid. And Joe, thanks for your reply. It was about the time you replied that I made this discovery yesterday. I would have checked it next time out if I hadn't done so yesterday. I'm a happy dirt pusher now. This forum is really great for shade tree dozer mechanics like us. It's like having a next door neighbor who is a Komatsu mechanic, so you can ask questions anytime you need.
Good news.. You are making progress. If both arms are being actuated then you will have to adjust them so you are not always engagain and wearing the bands and clutches out.... Another area to check fro clutch oil leaking is IN the steering clutch housing (pull bottom plugs out and be prepared for oil coming out.) which is suppose to be dry all the time. Let us know...
I didn't mean to say both were being actuated simultaneously. When I pull back one arm, only one finger is pressed in. I will pull the plugs on the steering clutch housings and check there, and will let you know what I find. Thanks again Darin.
How about a picture? Perhaps the headlights? My headlight / rear leamp switch is to the left of the key, again my machine is a D20A-6 Ebay and google searches will turn up a manual of sorts. All are out of print so expect a copy with terrible pictures for big bucks. Larry
Here is a picture of my D20A-6 dashboard. I don't know if you are talking about the same thing as what I have an arrow pointing to, which could very well be located elsewhere on your dashboard, but this is the display for the glowplugs to let you know they are working. I have an owners manual and service manual for the D20 and D21 A and P version 6 machines. but not the version 7. I actually have an extra service manual that I am willing to sell for 20 bucks (the cost to have it copied) plus shipping. It is a copy of a copy, so there is a little reduction in the quality of the print and drawings, but still very readable.
I think the knob i am reffering to operates the headlights. My headlights do not work so i need to run things down with a volt meter. Sounds great about the manual. I sent a email. Thanks
Check just inside the engine housing area by the lights to see if the wire is unplugged. On mine, there was an inline connector about 10 or 12 inches away from the light that would allow you to remove the light without cutting any wiring. I removed both of my lights as they were both damaged and when I pulled on the wires from them going into the engine housing, the connector pulled out of the hole that the wire runs through and I was able to just disconnect it there. Maybe yours has come unplugged accidently. Oh wait, you have a version 7. I bet your lights are mounted internally instead of outside like mine. Nonetheless, you may find the same connector. I'll check my email when I get home this evening.
Just in case anyone is looking for such a deal.... http://easttexas.craigslist.org/grd/3090486815.html
no problem RR
can anyone tell me if the d20a-5 and -6 use the same hyd. filter cartridge? if so it is a Fram c4651
I use this Wix Filter look up then cross it to another brand if I have to http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/Applications.aspx?Section=4
it didnt have a hyd.filter listed on that site
oops, sorry. Usually they have them all listed.
Hey guys I know it's on here but I need a hydraulic filter number preferably Napa if somebody has one thank you!
I have a D21a-6 and I haven't been able to find a hyd. filter except from Komatsu.
Nobody has a filter number for napa, Hastings , Baldwin? Anything? Darin?
Does anyone know if the hydraulic system on a D20a-5 is stackable i.e. can I add another hydraulic circuit to the system? I want to make a 3 point hitch to the back of my dozer and this would be the easiest way to do it. I want to be able use some of my 3 poin tools and make a ripper attachment also. Any ideas/help would be greatly appreciated.
John you could always put a diverter valve on the output side of one of your blade valves. With the dirverter in one position the blade valve contrls the blade in the other it controls your ripper.
This was done by one of the guys posting on this board, and there is a pretty detailed discussion about it. I want to think it was in the first 30 or 40 pages or so, but I really don't remember for sure. Edit: Just took a quick look and found the start of the discussion on post #510 on page 34 with the main stuff on the following pages. There are lots of pictures and details. Hope this helps. RRR
Thanks that is perfect! I have read over that and promptly forgotten it. I guess it gave me the idea that festered in the back of my mind. I have gotten some stuff from Darin(great to work with) and like I told him I am in a lovely sandy place with high temperatures right now and am working on ideas for when I get home. Now I can plan on what to get to make this project work. I mainly want to do this so I can make a ripper for it. I am open to suggestions for other ideas to play with or things you wish you had on your dozer. I have LOTs of time to think things through.
Re: the previous mentioned valve installation. This is written more as something to think about rather than a criticism. But if you look at the RD5100 valve specs you will see that even though it is a 3000 psi valve the max allowed pressure for the Tank Port (Out Port) is only 500 psi. This is typical of this type valve. In the above installation the out port is connected to all the original down stream dozer hydraulics. This means that when the ripper valve is in neutral and you use your blade controls the system pressure is very likely to go well over 500 psi which is a violation of the RD5100 spec. I might add that lots of people have done it this way and seem to get away with it but alot also have developed premature valve troubles. The "in spec" way ( I won't say correct way ) to do this is to use a Power Beyond plug in the valve which is available for the RD5100. Run all the down stream hydraulics from the Power Beyond Port which is speced for 3000 psi and not the Out Port. Add a third hydraulic line from the valve Out Port to the dozer hydraulic tank return line or to the tank itself. A little more complicated but not bad. Something for you to research and think about. Here is the valve spec http://www.princehyd.com/Portals/0/products/valves/catalog/ValvesRd5000.pdf
Not being a very knowledgeable hydraulics person I have a question or two. Do you think I could tee off the pressure side and return lines as appropriate to run the lines back to a valve? This way it would apply pressure to the 3 point hitch when I want. What I am looking for is to be able to apply a medium amount of down force that will hold there or up with the right type of valve. I would go off the blade cicuit because I don't see much use of both the blade and the 3 point hitch. The set up I want in the end is 2 double acting cylinders to be able to angle of the 3 point hitch up and down both together and up and down indipendantly to be able to angle in this case a ripper off of the horizontal. Yes techincally it would be a four point hitch but it would have the frame set up to take 3 point hitch impliments.
Well that is a fairly complicated question and I am not sure I understand it all but in general you can do what ever you want. Keeping it simple, your dozer has what is called an open center hydraulic system (vs closed). If you learn the basics of that type of system you will see that all the control valves need to be in a series loop. You cannot tee off to add a valve. If you want to add another cylinder or cylinders, like for a ripper or 3ph, there are two common ways to do it. (1) Add a new control valve for the added cylinder(s) and put that new valve in series with the existing valves just as was done in the previous posts above. Or (2) add a diverter valve so that you can use an existing control valve to control either the original equipment or the new cylinder(s). You direct the hydraulic flow out of the control valve work ports to drive either the original equipment or the new cylinder(s) thru a set of selector type valves called diverters which you plumb in at the control valve work ports outputs. Each method has its pros and cons. Both methods are sound and reliable ways to add functions.
Before I start I just want to say thanks for the info/help. I don't think I was very clear on my last reply when I asked about teeing off to run another valve. I was talking about teeing off between the pump and the OEM valves to another valve creating another circuit as it were. I realize that I couldn't use both circuits at the same time due to pressure loss. I will research what you are trying to teach/tell me. Again thanks for the info/help. i hope one day I can have the knowledge someone else needs to help them out the same way. John
Hopefully I am helping a little and at least pointing out some things that you should find out more about. On a basic open center system you can only have one circuit or loop. You can have many valves but they all have to be in series. That means you cannnot put a tee at the pump output or any where else either. Think of it this way: The pump is always turning. It delivers, say, a constant 20 gpm of oil. That oil circulates around the loop thru each valve in series. If all the valves are in neutral the oil just passes thru each valve and then dumps back into the tank. It is like an open pipe. The pump does not have to generate any pressure to circulate the oil. If you activate one of the valves, to extend or retract a cylinder, inside the valve the loop gets blocked off and the oil is forced to flow into the cylinder. At the start the oil has no pressure. With the loop blocked off the pump continues its 20 gpm output and the oil pressure quickly builds until there is enough pressure to move the cylinder. As the high pressure oil flows into one end of the moving cylinder low pressure oil is pushed out the other end. This "exhaust" oil returns to the valve and is directed back to the tank thru the low pressure tank return line. The valves down stream of the actiated valve are cutoff from the pump output. So... if you put a tee at the pump output to make two loops, oil would probably flow around both loops if all the valves were in neutral. The pump would "see" two open pipes in parrallel requiring no pressure to push oil thru. As soon as you activated a valve in one of the loops that loop will, in essance, get blocked off because the flow gets directed to a cylinder which requires pressure to move. The oil will just simply stop flowing in that loop. It will all flow thru the other loop which still looks like an open pipe. The pump will "see" one blocked pipe and one open pipe.
Okay, now that makes perfect sense. Thanks for the explanation to the slow members of the audience. Like I said hydraulics isn’t one of my strong points, well at least not yet. Now I have something else to think about and plan. I think I am probably going to go the diverter route. My problem now is I need to look at the D20s hydraulic circuits to see which circuit controller to use. It will probably be the blade control circuit due to it having enough ports to control 2 double acting cylinders. I wonder if I can get a pair of diverters (or one diverter if it is a 2 port one) that are electrical to keep from cluttering up the work area. Crazy thing is I am 6’4” and a little over 250# and I HATE banging either my elbows or knees into things and they seem to always find hard pointy things:Banghead. Kind of like my brother in law saying his backhoe is a large orange wire finder.
They have selonoid actuated diverters just for that. You have probably seem hydraulic control handles with buttons on them. Often the buttons are electrical switches which control selonoid diverter valves. For example, there are many tractors with grapples on the bucket. If you dont push the button pushing forward or pulling back on the control handle dumps or curls the bucket. If you push the button the diverter switches and now pushing forward or pulling back on the control handle opens and closes the grapple. Good luck
Good now I get to figure out how to spend more money. I might test these diverters on my Kubota L5450 due to all of the hydrauils being out where you can see/get to them and I want some graples or a 4 way bucket for it.
There is always something interesting and useful to do. I have a Farmi logging winch on my tractor that I would love to be able to put on my 70 hp Dresser TD7G dozer. At this stage I am trying to figure out a reasonable way that I can get a tractor type pto shaft that turns about 200 or 300 rpm at idle sticking out of the back of the dozer. If anyone has any words of wisdom, advise, or any info at all on that I would love to hear it.
I hear you about always having somehting to do. I am planning on putting an electric winch on the back of mine between the uprights for the the ROPS. If I come across any ideas on your issue I will contact you.
the hyd. filter for a D20A-5 and D21A-5 is Fram c4651, it replaces komatsu KMTS 130-60-48210 hyd filter, I don't know if it fits any other machines or not, I have a D20A-6 but I haven't bought one yet, I don't know if they are the same or not, can anyone tell me the komatsu filter number?
Joe, I'm not sure why, but there are three cartridge numbers listed for both the angle dozer and the power angle, power tilt dozer on the D20A-6 parts page at the KomatsuPartsBook.com website. They show part numbers 113-60-43321, 113-60-43320, and 113-60-23240. I didn't find any cross references for any of these at either Fram or Wix.
OK, thanks RR, guess I'll keep looking
newly registered but i have been lurking for a while. lots of good info on here. I am restoring an old i think late 70's Komatsu D31a-16 with a winch. I picked it up for less than scrap price. Has the full rops and protective plating. Can anyone tell me where I can get used parts for it? Also curious if anyone is familiar with this machine and can maybe tell how it compares size wise to other machines? Once i get it fixed I plan to do some logging and then lots and lots of land clearing.
Gijs, Sounds like an interesting project. If you mean D31-16 (w/o the "a") which were around in late 70's I have seen them listed as 63 hp and 15.500 lbs. (The weight seems like it might be high to me, but maybe includes a winch ??) So it would be similar to a JD 450C I think.
New member, long term lurker...I'm deciding between a late 90's D21A with cab or late 90's D21P without cab. Both roughly the same shape and price. I'm a little concerned about ground pressure but that cab sure would be nice. Sometimes I'll be operating in a field that was reclaimed from beavers and the ground can be a bit soft. If I can drive my 5k lb utility 4 wheel drive tractor ok on the field would the D21A have any issues? I don't know how to quantify the 5psi vs 3.75 psi ground pressures.
rdoiron, I have a 4WD Kabota tractor with a logging winch on it that also weighs 5000 lbs. My TD7G dozer has 15" pads and 6.5 psi ground pressure. I operate both in the woods and I have alot of wet ground so I have to be careful. In soft going the tractor will get mired in places the dozer has no problem. They both have about the same ground clearance. That is not to say that the doser won't make a depression, because it does, but it doesn't sink like the tractor does. If I can, I test an unknown area with the tractor which is easier to rescue than the dozer. I have never had trouble running the dozer where the tractor could go. I have only been running the dozer for a year so there is a lot I don't know. But so far this has been my experience. I have been told the ground pressure on the tractor is equal to the tire pressure.
Thanks g_man That's what I figured. If the tractor is ok, the dozer will be fine. Do you enjoy your TD7G? I used to work on them in the mid 70's when I worked for IH. I found the wet clutches to be very trouble free. We used to take a TD8 and cut down the blade for landscaping. Sold lots of them because they could fit between houses but still had lots of power. Worked a lot on Hough wheel loaders as well. I made an offer for the D21A with the cab...
I like it alot. Still just learning. Since I log with a tractor my skid roads have to be half way decent. I was realy excited when I found out the TD7G had no trouble digging up and moving rocks like this. I have alot of very rough trails left over from other loggers who had big skidders. Many I couldn't use until I got the dozer. Now I can smooth them out.
Hi I am looking for a bit of help with an old D21 dozer i have. It drives forward and back no problem but i can not get it to steer left or right. when you pull the lever hard enough it will brake but will not put in the hydraulic clutch to stop the drive so it can steer. The machine has been lying up for a few years and this is sort of a restoration project. I would be helpfull if any of you could tell me how the steering system works and how i could narrow down the problem.
The Rock, I don't know if you are having the same problem as I was, but it is something to eliminate anyway. Go back and read my post # 1507 and subsequent posts on that thread to see what I found out. If that doesn't do the trick, let us know and we can suggest other things to try. RRR
Well my (new to me) D21-7 (1998) arrived this morning at 05:00 AM in total darkness. It was to arrive last night but the float was delayed. Runs nice, 1700 hours on the meter, mostly original paint and quite tight. One hose from the directional joystick needs to be replaced but other than that no leaks. Bring on the projects!
that's a nice looking dozer, bet it's great in the winter in that cab. bubbagoat
That's a nice looking dirt pusher there, rdoiron. I sure could use a cab like that in the Texas summer heat. I hope you enjoy yours as much as I do mine.
Hi RRR Thanks for the advice i read the posts and they were very helpfull, I managed to get the dozer to steer on the left now but it wont steer on the right. I removed all the floor panels and i can see everything is working as it should from the outside on the linkages. Is there any way of checking the hydraulic system of the steering before i remove the top plates to look in at the brake drum assembly.
You didn't say how you fied the left so I assume it fixed itself. The clutch faces were rusted together and broke free ??? If that was the case try working the dozer with the right stick pulled half way back. Go forward and back. Bury the blade and make the tracks work hard. Maybe the right will free up too.
g-man has a good point here. If you got it to free up on one side, it may well be a rust problem that broke loose on one side only. I remember reading several posts in the 100+ pages of this forum that talk about this problem. It seems to be common on a dozer that has set up for a while. Let us know if you get it fixed. If not, others on here have more expertise and may well give you more things to try. Good luck with it.
Hi, I have the bolts off of both sides of the clutch in my Komatsu D21P-6 . But can't seem to pull the clutch out . So whats the trick??? I need to take it out cause it won't disingauge. I think it's rusted like yours was. Thanks
Silly possibly even stupid question. Does anyone know if you can put the 20" tracks from a D20P on a D20A? Also if it can be done do you think it would be worth it for the extra traction or would it be better to add to the grouser height or an extra grouser added to the rear of the track pad? I am asking because a, I only have about 2hrs of seat time on my D20A5 before I deployed and don't really have a lot of knowledge about what my dozer will do. and b, I am trying to plan on what I want to do to make it as useful as possible when I get back on it. I like to plan/day dream while sitting here in lovely Kuwait. I will be using it mainly in the hilly side of Ohio so sideslope issues may be an issue and old soft farm soil.
hey guys sorry to but-in but im new here trying 2 figure this forum out but i need some help thinken about buying a d20p-6 dozer and the right steering clutch needs to be adjusted how do i do this ????:beatsme
That is an interesting question. I don't know the answer. Hopefully someone can educate us. I know putting on wider track pads will give you a lighter ground pressure so it seems like that might be less traction. But then again the grouser is longer and the pad area is larger ?? I know with my dual wheel truck I get better traction in snow if I take one wheel off. The smaller footprint is better. I think a second or taller grouser will surely give you more traction but if the track slips a little it is easier on the drive train. On side hill operation I think the narrow track might be better. I would like to sink in a little I think. I don't know any of this stuff. I am just thinking out loud. Be safe until you can get back for more seat time. g_man
I don't know the d20p but would suggest that if it is an ajustment problem the present owner would have done it. Might be best to figure a clutch job into your offer. Maybe you could describe how the machine behaves and why you think it needs adjustment. There are lots of things that can go wrong.
thanks g_man he said he put the right side in new and didnt get it adjusted right ... thats a great idea then i wouldnt have to mess with it . thanks again g_man
New to this forum. (need permission to post photos) I'm new to this forum & heavy equipment. Last Monday I purchased this D20A-6 dozer from a individual that used it a couple times and then put it into a conex for storage. Dozer has 2300 hrs but it clearly has a newer paint job. A lot of over spray. The sprockets are not a points and the track rollers are not concaved. Could someone break down a quick list of things to grease, fluid change (types of fluid), track adjustments, and linkage adjustments. This dozer is heading to my remote cabin this January in Alaska. It looks like I don't have permission to download a photo. How can I get permission?
Welcome to the forum. This seems to be "the" forum to be on to get the info you want. Granted there are 115 pages of info in here pretty much anything concerning the D20/21 series is covered somewhere in here so sit back and enjoy the read. There are a few peopel here who are very knowledgeable and I have done business with one of them and had great service from him. This is not to say the others aren't as good I just haven't dealt with them and can't say. PM me and I will tell you who it is I have dealt with. Me I would find all of the frease fittings I can and put in grease that won't have freezing problems in your winters and be good for the summer the same with oils. Again the types and amounts are covered in here somewhere towards the begining(because everyone elsee who is new to this dozer has asked the same thing myself inclueded). I tried to insert what I have but the format is wrong. I will try and change the format and get back and insert them. The little bit of seat time I have it seems like a great dozer for what it is and you have to use it within its limitations. Enjoy and be safe.
These are the questions I was asking myself and I was going in one of those logic loops of thinking too much about something and not seeing the forest for the trees. As to the dual wheel getting better traction with one wheel I have found it is because it allows the tire to dig/knife down to hard ground. On the side slope issue my thinking was the wider the track of the dozer the less it might want to roll sideways. However I am a major league chicken when it come to side slope operations and will probably never come close to putting even a normal D20A near its side slope limits. Something about not wanting to give my BILs anything to give me grief about (in a joking way). We go back and forth on these things when we have the opportunity to. I can't wait to see one of them because he managed to put a Case skid steer on its side when the dirt underneath him decided it didn't want to play nice. The picture my wife sent was the epitome of "Well crap". I haven't heard the end of the time I managed to get a large tree between the box blade and rear tire of my Kubota L5450. Let’s just say mud, gravity, side slope and the last five minutes of a task were all involved.
dip stick;s well the one that you are sitting on under seat is for final drive trane one under pedal clutch housing do you not have the plate on your.s machine will oil&lube points,?
it is a great forum,the members here are active,i like it.I know less about the komatus dozer,it is seldom in my country.
Here is a short video of my new (to me) D21A-7 starting on my pond project. I'm moving a large amount of ground uphill towards the house changing the overall grading. I'm very satisfied at how sturdy and tough this small dozer is. http://youtu.be/shNl_2Wz6dA
I have an D20A-6 also. You need to check for grease fittings at the ends of each cylinder and grease them until you see grease coming out around the pins. On the main lift cylinders, you will have to raise the blade up all the way to get to a couple of the fittings. Also, under the floor plate there is a universal joint that needs to be greased. And forgive me, but I can't remember if there is a grease fitting or two for the blade control levers or not. I know my tractor has one for the bucket control, but I can't remember if the dozer has one on each control or not. There may be others, but I don't know about them, if so. As for the fluids, I don't have my owners manual with me right now, but all fluids, other than the radiator of course, are engine oil. Even the hydraulics uses engine oil. As for the spec on the oils for each component, i.e. engine, final drives, transmission, etc., there is at least one post here that shows a scan of the owners manual page, giving the spec for each component at a given temperature range. I don't have the time to find it right now, but it's there. On the adjustments, all I have had to adjust on mine is the tracks. There is a grease fitting on each side that pumps a cylinder with grease and compresses a spring. The more you pump into it, the tighter the track gets. To loosen the track, you unscrew the grease fitting a little until grease oozes out. There is an spec in the owners manual for the correct adjustment. I'm not real particular about mine anymore as I kind of know what it looks like when adjusted properly, but you can do it by the book with a two by four and a tape measure or ruler. You drive the dozer onto level ground and push in the clutch and let it stop without braking. Then lay the two by four on top of the full length of the track and measure the droop of the track to the bottom of the two by four. If I remember correctly, its about an inch and a half droop. If the tracks are too tight, you can get excessive wear. If they are too loose, you can throw them off, and they will also pop at times when you are changing directions and/or loaded. Once you get used to the way it looks when adjusted properly, I'll bet you can adjust it without the two by four and ruler, just by looking at it. I have never touched the linkage on mine. It has been perfect ever since I got it. And I'm the kind that believes in leaving well enough alone. If you have the time, I would suggest you read this forum from front to back, and make a list as you go of the message numbers for posts that explain how to do an adjustment, or what fluids to use, etc. Then you will have a good reference for the future. There are lots of very helpful posts here by folks who know a lot more about these great Japanese machines than I do. It's a wonderful little dozer, and it amazes me at what it can do with just 40 horsepower. I hope you enjoy yours as much as I do mine. Forgot to mention...you get permission to post pictures after submitting so many posts, five I think. I think it will change your status to Junior Member when you get to that point.
Nice video there, rdoiron. You look like you are having a good time. I looked at some of your other videos also. You have some nice toys to play with there.
Thanks for getting back to me! I would like to post a picture of the Dozer but the forum says that I do not have permisison. How do I get permission?
Last paragraph of my previous post.
Can't believe I missed that. Thanks
I checked the track adjustment page. It says adjust the droop for 20 to 30 millimeters, which is roughly 3/4 inch to 1-1/4 inch. I run mine a little looser than that and it seems to work fine. Here are some selected manual pages I scanned in that might help you. The PM schedule, the fluid specs, and the cold starting procedure. On the cold starting procedure, I was having a problem getting mine to crank up every weekend, even in the summer. I wasn't using the glowplug at all. So I tried turning it to heat for about 5 seconds, then start, and it cranked right up. Now I use it all the time. If you need any other manual pages, let me know. I may not get to them right away, but I will eventually. I wrote in ink the part numbers for the engine oil filter from three other sources. I have not been able to find a cross reference fir the hydraulic filter anywhere. If anyone knows how to actually imbed these images in the post, please let me know. If I click on the Insert Image button and select From URL, it doesn't like the URL for some reason. It says it is an invalid image, or something like that.
Under the page tab try saving the page as a .JPG type then you can post it like a picture. That seems to work.
Thanks RRR!
g_man, excuse my ignorance, but where is this page tab you are speaking of? I looked both here and on Photobucket and don't see a page tab. jillmd, look at your status. You should be able to post pictures now. Congrats on becoming the newest Junior Member! :drinkup
Well, I have to resize an image to 640 px size to do it, but at least I can upload a picture from a folder here without any problems. Here is an aerial view of part of my ranch. I think you can see, with all the dirt area that has been either hit with the dozer or the box blade, why it is called Red Rock Ranch. The pear-shaped pond with the small island in it is my first pond. Our new home and shop will be to the left of it there, next to the two big oak trees. The other small pond is an experiment to see how much water that watershed area will produce. The small dam for it will be busted up later on and that pond will extend up into the area where all those small pine trees are. It should be about three to four times the size of the smaller pond. The next picture is one looking across part of the pond toward the house and shop pad, just in front of the two big oak trees. I was filling it up from the water well right after I finished cleaning it out with the dozer. My neighbor had dug me a deep channel in the middle with a trackhoe and left a lot of loose dirt and rocks. I have since planted lots of rye grass and oats to try to stop the erosion and prevent so much muddy water from running into it. It will be a while, but some day it should be a nice clear pond. It's so much fun to do this with the little Komatsu. I can't wait to retire so I can play all day out there. And last but not least, here is a picture of my little dirt mover before I took the broken lights off of it. It has over 5538 hours on it, but was refurbed before it left Japan. The hours meter is at 5538 and does not work anymore. I know I've put at least 200 hours on it since I got it. It is my favorite toy and one of the best investments I've ever made.
Well I don't consider it ignorance and I could be wrong. Your photobucket images look like they came from a web pages. On the web page upper right is the "page" tab. If you hit it then hit "save as" when the save box comes up change the file type to .jpg. I did it to one of your pages. Here it is
RRR, Nice spread.
Thanks g_man. The ranch is a dream I have had most of my life. My wife and I should be moved out there into a new home within a year's time. I only get to go out on the weekends and work right now, and it is a 25 mile drive, one way, from where we currently live. It will be nice to be able to come home after work and have time to do things before dark, every weekday. I found the Page dropdown you were speaking of. It is in Internet Explorer itself. I was looking for it in the actual web pages. Thanks for your help with that. It seems the image size is still limited to 640 pixels, which is sufficient in most cases, but I can see where you might want to put up a little larger detail picture at times. Oh well, I guess you will just have to link to a Photobucket picture or something similar in that case.
RRR Dito, nice spread. You made a big start and looks well planed.
RRR, real nice place. I think we have alot in common. I can't stay off my machine as well and can't wait for the weekends to continue the pond work. I acquired about 110 acres of old farm that had not been maintained for about 60 years. My first investment was in a 35 hp tractor with the most common attachments. I have put over 1000 hours on that rugged beast bush hogging and reclaiming the land. Now with the D21 I can accomplish so much more! Back when I was in my 20's I worked for IH in Toronto Ontario as a field mechanic and specialized in the smaller dozers, now known as Dresser TD7&8s. I did that for about 6 years and then went into HVAC and then ultimately into high tech. I always did miss the iron and now its like I'm back 30 years. The wife says I'm smiling too much when I'm operating
These are the only pictures that I got.
rdoiron, you are correct. A lot in common. I have 68 acres here that were virtually untouched except for the pipelines running through them and the gas well on the back side of the 50 acre tree farm. It was clear cut about 8 years ago and they really trashed it. Since then it has reseeded itself but all the trash is still there rotting away and all the deep ruts from the skidders are everywhere. I bought a 38 HP John Deere with loader and a heavy duty shredder rated for a 100 HP tractor, so it is pretty much indestructible. I also have a box blade. I was attempting to clean up the tree farm with the tractor alone but was afraid I was too hard on it, so I searched for and found the Komatsu. It has been the missing link. It is big enough to take out the bad trees and clean up the brush piles, but small enough to save the good trees around the messes. And it does a great job digging too. Some people call what we do work. I get so much pleasure from cleaning up a mess or digging a new wildlife pond or mowing the fields and trails. When I tell others what I do on the weekends, they mostly say, that sounds like so much work. Well, it is, but it's good for the body and soul. jillmd, that is a nice looking machine. I think you will get a lot of work out of it, and perhaps as much pleasure as we do when you work with it. Let us know how you like it and show us some pictures of what you do with it when you do.
I am new to the dozer world. Just purchased a D20a-5 and it's on a trailer that I am towing 130 miles to our property in PA this morning. I love reading the posts here and am sure I will have lots of questions once I start using it. Tried to upload a pic but it is too big will do when I get home in a few days.
Here is my Dresser TD7G. New to me last spring with the tracks pretty near fallin off. I spent last summer learning about dozers and how to do U/C work rdoiron, I will remember you are a TD7 guy. In 99 my wife and I bought over 100 acres of hilly Vermont rock and swamp that had been severly abused by loggers over the years. The skid roads were full of boulders, ruts, and side hills so that I could not take my tractor on them. We built a comfortable little house on it ourselves. Took over 5 years. First 2 we lived in the unfinished basement and moved up as we finished each room. We are retired. Now I spend my time working in my woods. I bought the dozer to fix up my woods roads so I can run the tractor and winch on them. I am a happy man.
G_man that TD7 sure brings back memories. The last one I worked on was back in 1975, they don't seem to have changed much. Pretty much bullet proof power shift transmission, wet steering clutches, easy to rebuild engine with wet sleeves. I do remember some issues with final drive bearings and the control valve for the transmission. IH used to insist on Hytran oil for the transmission and steering clutches. We bought our land in2008 and I spent every weekend and most nights after work trying to figure out the lay of the land. Over 50 acres were swampy with some areas under 3 feet of water. Turned out beavers had taken over and in about 20 years had managed to turn what was a dairy farm into a real mess. I found the main dam and tried in vain many times to destroy it, but I lost every battle. I hired a pro trapper, got all the permits and in 6 months I had dry land again.
ElCactus, welcome to the world of dirt pushers. Looking forward to seeing your pictures when you get them posted. I don't know if you have some good graphics software with which to manipulate pictures or not, but if you don't, I will highly recommend Picasa from Google. It is free and has a lot of features for those of us who aren't graphics specialists. It is easy to fix up your pictures with it and also has some nice tutorial videos to get you started, if needed. G_Man, your woods look really nice. I bet you take some nice walks through them. And your Dresser looks like it's in great shape there. Nice job on fixing it up. Rdoiron, I have read a lot about beavers and the dams they build. I have never seen one in the wilds around here, and I'm thankful for that. I don't need no varmint building dams for me. That's my job.
1978 Komatsu D31s16 was working fine then when I went from reverse to forward nothing happened for about 3 sec but I could hear something like a pump or clutch trying to engage. Then it slowly started moving but no forward progress when I tried to turn . Went to reverse and same thing happened. Shut it down and checked the fluid. It was maybe 3 quarts low so added fluid. Started it back up after about 20 minutes of shut down and everything seemed ok for about 3 minutes. Then suddenly again nothing. Shut down and took off floor panels to look at hoses, linkage etc. Checked fluid and still ok. Started after about 20 minute shutdown and again everything seemed ok for about 3 minutes, then nothing. Any ideas?
Do you have a clutch pressure or transmission pressure guage ? Does it act the same in all gear ranges forward and reverse ? I guess if it were mine, assuming the motor is running strong, I would make make sure the suction filter screen was clean and the pressure filter was in good shape. I would take the floor boards off so I could watch the drive shaft between the torque converter and transmission. If the drive shaft is stopping I would check the converter pressures to try seeing what might be going on. There also might be a screened fitting associated with the scavenger pump that is plugged. If the drive shaft is turning then check the transmission clutch pressures and control valves. And then go from there. It will be hard to get to far into it without access to a manual or someone who has one which unfortunately I don't for your machine.
I should add that I am no expert so someone more experienced or experienced with the D31 16 may have better advise
Just got back from PA and got a chance to look my d21a5 over close. Runs good does what I needed it to do even though I need to change sprockets and chains next spring. I found a few problems mostly minor. It needs a thermostat, temp. sending unit, gasket or o-ring between thermostat housing and water pump leaking when cold and coolant looks like mud. Where is the best place to get these parts? Komatsu wants two arms a leg. I am also going to change all fluids/filters. This wont be until next spring as I put all my toys away for the winter. Is there a parts and service manual avaiable for download for my machine? Thanks RRRancher for the info. I have not tried it yet but will soon.
Well I started on the pond a few days ago. Some fun videos to show the progress Pond digging part 1 http://youtu.be/shNl_2Wz6dA Pond digging part 2 http://youtu.be/_mDbQXh5cP8 Pond digging part 3 http://youtu.be/HErnEpVYdY8
Looks like you are having fun there, rdoiron. Moving dirt like that can be a bit monotonous, but it's also relaxing as it doesn't require a lot of thought. I hope you have less sandy soil at the bottom so it holds water well. I wish I had a bit more sand around where my ponds are located, but it's mostly all clay in that area. I will be bringing some in with the tractor loader to put around the edges after I finish all the digging and dam building so wave action won't muddy the water so much. I don't know if you have seen this site before, but there is a good website for pond builders called PondBoss.com. The forum there is cram packed with all kinds of good info for all pond builders. I'm even documenting my pond building adventure there. I thought maybe you might be interested in doing the same. ElCactus, I know there is a fellow here that sells parts for these small dozers named DarinRay. He shows up from time to time and answers some questions and offers his help. He may be able to help you out with some of it. Here is a link to his website. http://www.dmmsales.com Here is a link to an online parts manual for Komatsu equipment that may give you some help in that regard. Try http://komatsupartsbook.com/ . I have an extra shop manual for the D20A,P,S,Q-6 and D21A,P,S,Q-6 models but not the -5 versions. I don't know how much difference there is. I believe someone gave a website reference months ago here where you could purchase manuals. You might read back several pages and see. If you are going to change all the fluids, you might want to start stocking up on bulk oil when you see it go on sale as it is going to take several gallons to replace it all. For instance, if you look back a few posts at the pages I posted from the Operations and Maintenance manual, if I were to replace all fluids on mine, it would take 63.5 liters of oil total, which comes out to 16.77 gallons of different viscosities. I watch the farm store sales papers and purchase 5 quart and 2.5 gallon containers of whatever they have on sale at different times to stock up for my next fluid changes. I've looked at 5 gallon containers of oil and they really don't discount it in that quantity but a few cents where I shop. It's much harder to pour from a 5 gallon bucket than a 2.5 gallon container. I'll pay the few cents more for the convenience. Your mileage may vary.
rdoiron, nice videos. You guys with the rockless soil really make me jealous
It's quite strange as there is rock all over close to my place. Building my house a few years back we encountered dense grey clay mixed with lots of rock under the approximately 2feet of topsoil. Then over about 300 feet where the pond excavation begins, there is only about 6 inches of topsoil then about 15 feet of red and yellow sand before hitting the dense clay. Apparently this area was at the bottom of a sea during the last ice age. In fact, we were part of Lake Champlain in upper New York State. I think I'm sitting on glacial till, the stuff that is scraped along under the glaciers. I figure that I will need to dig down to an average depth of 15 feet to get enough clay to line the sides. Upsides is that the sand is easy to push, downside is that I can feel the track chain, rollers and sprockets being worn away. I was close to end of life with the track before starting, so it's probably a spring upgrade ahead. The track is original with the dozer at 1700 hours. It can be boring going back and forth, but good music or an Audible book pass the time. In fact, it is almost zen like sculpting the ground. I find that I get the same effect cutting grass with my Toro 455d mower or bush hogging on the tractor. I'm a project manager in the government and spend the day mostly on the computer. Working outside is my safety valve. This is the first tool that has a cab for me and I'm not going back to sitting in the open. The cab only has heat so I may not be so keen in the summer but its so nice in the rain or cold. I added a used electric baseboard heater thermostat to the fan circuit and now I have climate control I also added 4 led lights to the top of the cab and what a difference for working at night. Four 27 watt led floods make an amazing sight. Bought them on EBay from China.
g_man, surely you aren't talking about me, eh?
ooh, you got some too RRR. Lucky you Glad I'm not the only one.
rdoiron, there are surely times in the summer here in Texas, when the temperature stays close to, or over 100 degrees for days, that I would love to have an air-conditioned cab on both the dozer and tractor. But when the weather is pleasant, as it has been lately, I really enjoy feeling the breeze blowing by me as I'm working. I'm sure that if I were in the cold northern regions, I would really appreciate a heated cab. We just don't get many days here where it is cold enough for that. I totally agree with you on the ability to leave the workplace behind when you climb on the equipment and start doing anything. I'm a programmer and database administrator, and also sit in front of a computer eight hours a day. I assure you that you won't see me on here before dark, once I get moved out there, unless it is too cold, or something similar. I can almost guarantee that when I come home from work, I will be operating something until dark. It takes very little mental effort to push dirt or mow or grade a roadbed, etc. My yard here at home is never in need of cutting for long. I enjoy grabbing a cold beer and taking the Snapper for a spin anytime. Many folks don't understand it, but that's ok. We enjoy it, and that's all that matters.
Has anyone ever used their D21 to plow snow? My driveway is gravel, 2 1/2 cars wide and about 1200 feet long. I have been using my 35 HP tractor with an inverted rear blower but it gets mighty cold sitting in the open. The snow always seems to blow back in my face. Now my D21 has a heated cab and that got me thinking. If I mounted some blade skids on the the rear of the blade like a true snow blade to cause it to float and not dig into the gravel...anyone tried this?
I used mine two seasons ago - county couldnt get a plow aroiund our area so i plowed the highway and some of the farm roads with it. It did great for asphalt - the gravel roads did good as well - everything was froze hard so it didnt cut into the ground , but i didnt have a lot of pressure on it either.
Help with steering Today I actually had the chance to move some dirt with my dozer and I noticed that in reverse pulling the right lever the machine wants to die. Bogs down then turns. The left lever turns the rig really smooth and no bog. I have a operators manual and it says how to adjust the steering but everything is in kg. I also pulled the bottom plugs to see if there was fluid in the steering clutch's and there wasn't. Dry. Anyways can someone help me adjust the steering? I also installed a 24 volt tender.
jillmd, I'm no expert on this, but it sounds to me as if your steering clutch on that side is not releasing enough when the brake engages, causing the brake to bog down the motor because it is still trying to drive that track while the brake is applied. What sounds strange to me is that it only happens in reverse and not in forward also. But I suppose that is very possible. I would search on here for the posts dealing with adjusting the steering clutches, or look it up in a service manual, if you have one. I know I have seen posts about that here on this forum more than once, and it didn't look too complicated at all. If I remember correctly, there is a cover you have to remove, and then one bolt you turn a bit to adjust each side. If I remember correctly, there was even a post that had nice pictures documenting the procedure. Good luck with it and maybe someone else will show up here to help more. Nice job mounting that tender. Looks very professional. EDIT: I just looked at my service manual, and what I said above is wrong in that you are not adjusting the clutch with that adjusting polt, but the tension of the brake band. Still, I would guess, from what I read, that the brake band may be engaging before the clutch is disengaged. Nonetheless, I still believe the adjusting bolt may solve your problem. If it were me, I would turn the bolt, say, one full turn one way, then try it out. If it is worse, you went the wrong way. So two turns the other way and try it out. As I said, I'm no expert here, but it certainly sounds as if the clutch is still engaged when the brake applies, causing the motor bogging. I will defer to a more expert opinion if someone can help out here. And one more thing I will add that may clarify this a bit. It is my opinion, from what I have read, that what happens when you pull back on a steering lever is that at some point in the travel, the linkage below the seat pushes in on the plunger that operates the hydraulic valve that disengages the steering clutch on that side. As the steering lever is pulled back even farther, it applies the brake band to completely stop the rotation on that side. What I'm thinking here is that your brake band adjustment is causing the brake band to apply before the plunger is depressed enough to disengage the clutch on that side. I do know that on my dozer I can pull the lever back partially on one side, and the dozer will turn very slowly, as the clutch is disengaged, but the brake is not applied yet. When I pull back farther, the brake is applied and it turns much more quickly.
jillmd, nice batt tender install. RRR's discription of the clutch/brake operation is good. Is your Trans/Clutch pressure the same in forward as reverse ?? It is hard to figure why forward is good and reverse is bad. Hopefully the problem is not in the planetaries where they only rotate freely in one direction if that is the type steering system you have.
I drained the trans and pulled out the screen/filter casing thinking the filter might be clogged but there was not a filter/screen in it. The casing had some sludge and bits of what looks like a clutch plate as can be seen in the attached pics. I have not had a 2nd gear since I owned it for the past 2 years so maybe thats what that large pice is a part of.. I mopped out the case/pan best I could with a rag and my hand looked like it had glitter duct all over it. To overhaul the tranny I guess I would have to go in thru the top. For now I think I'll order new gaskets and a screen, reassemble and see if I catch anything else. And of course perform the other suggested inspections http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/dcara/100_0371.jpg http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/dcara/100_0369.jpg
dcara, it's never a good thing when you see parts like that in the bottom of an engine or transmission. I'm thinking it might be that you have a completely gone friction plate between two metal plates and they are producing the metal filings you are seeing. I hope it isn't major. I was looking at the parts manual at http://komatsupartsbook.com and it looks like that strainer is well over a hundred bucks. You might get lucky and find one cheaper at a place that has dozers they scrap for parts. Good luck with it.
I am not sure that I would run it anymore. You need to get into it anyway. The sooner the better. You have some work ahead of you. But then again after two years it may not matter. You won't know untill you get in there. As RRR says hope for good luck.
THanks for the parts reference. I've never been into a trany before so I guess I should get a shop manual. Any suggestions where I could get one? I'm thinking one of those bits got sucked into the pump clogging thing up.
Greetings from Linden Tennessee. I own a D21P-5 and have used it for several years. Recently, once the dozer has run 10-20 minutes and is warmed up, a whine starts and track power starts to drop and both tracks will stop when you pull the left lever. We put a gauge on the test port on top of the inching valve/speed spool/direction spool body and NO pressure shows when it should read over 1000 psi. NO oil even comes out of this test port! This does not change whether hot or cold. We have taken the pump, modulator valve, and inching valve all off and disassembled them. No wear or issues. Replaced some O rings but no good. The pump and modulator valve were taken to a local shop and checked for tolerances/wear and they did not see anything wrong. If the pump was bad, how could the hydro-shift transmission even work? Any ideas? The engine does not bog down, just the tracks lose power, mostly in forward. Thanks! Mike
Have you checked the charge pump strainer (item 11), filter cover o-ring seal (item 16), suction pipe o-rings (item 20).
I finally took my dozer to my remote property up in Alaska. I had a lot of problems. This is what happened. When my wife and I got to unloading the dozer it was 8 below. It started fine. I let idle for about 30 minutes then we took off. Water temp was up and everything seemed to be fine. Her on a snowmobile and me driving the dozer cross country, everything was going great until I had to do a sharp left hand turn in first gear. I pulled the left hand lever and immediately the left side track locked up and spone me around. I barely had the lever pulled and there was no slippage. Just immediate the track locked. I stopped and pushed in the clutch I had to go in reverse to get out of the situation I was in and while in reverse the left track stayed locked then went finely went free, but it was staining the motor. It felt like the brake was froze around the drum. After going forward and reveres in circles everything started to work. So we took off and drove for about another 30 minutes until I had to take another sharp left hand turn. Again there was no slippage it just locked up the left side track. I went forward and reverse until it started to free up again and drive straight. The left track was free again, but I could smell clutch for a few minutes afterword and there was a strain on the motor (a bog). After all that I was really contemplating on turning around and heading back to the trailer but everything was starting to work really good. There was slippage in the handle while being pulled and no bog. So we both felt confident that the dozer could make it and headed in the 12 miles to my cabin. I got to the cabin 4 hrs later and took the advantage of the low snow and started to push over alders. Just to get a jump start on clearing the land this summer. I worked the machine for 20 minutes pushing alder trees. The alders trees just snap like toothpicks since their froze. A lot nicer messing with trees this way. Anyways i notice both tracks would turn or push while I was digging into the ground and pushing piles of alder trees. Then I decide to move to another location when I notice that I couldn't turn right. I could turn left but not right in reverse or forward. I tried pushing forward and noticed that the right track is the only one that will turn. The reason why I think that its the steering clutch is that I never heard things grinding or breaking. Just clutch disk smell. I also removed the two plugs under the machine to see if there was fluid in the steering clutches but there wasn't. I attached a few pictures of the trail to my cabin the dozer and knocked over alders. Any ideas? My dozer is currently 12 miles off the road at my remote cabin. If its the steering clutches, anybody out there can help me on how to remove the clutches would be much appreciated. Please let me know if there is something else that I should look at too. Thanks for your help. Mike
I will defer to others who are more educated on the subject, but I think if it were mine, and it was doing as you described, I would loosen the brake band adjustment on the left side a bit and see if that helps. I'm guessing that if you are smelling it like that, the brake band is engaging when it shouldn't be. If the fluid level was low for the steering clutches, I would think you would have the same problem I had where it would bog the engine no matter which way you tried to turn. But since it is only the one side, I would think that it was the brake too tight on that side. Good luck with it. You are tougher than me by far if you can brave 8 degree weather. :notworthy I wimp out when it gets in the low 40's. I told my wife I would take her to Alaska some day. But only in the summertime.
Have you checked the oil in the clutch? Make sure its 10w
I was wondering what happened back in in October when you were having trouble steering in reverse. Did you do something to fix that or did the problem just go away?? If there is any moisture at all in there at those temps it will be hard to get it adjusted. I am wondering if that is why it is acting so inconsistant. Have you been able to find a manual for it?? Those are some nice pictures you posted. Big country for sure.
10w will freeze in sub below temps... prolong use in these temps will cause issues.....
Well I just got back from my cabin. I decided to remove the steering clutches and had success doing so. The first day was just remove panels and linkages. Then we drenched the steering clutches with PB blaster and let that soak up for a day. The following day we started to remove to the bolts and they all came pretty easy. Didn't have one really bad bolt. I believe the Penetrating oil worked. The clutch in questions came out with a lot of black powder. The second clutch barely had any powder. The hardest part of all this was getting the clutch covers off. I know Im going to have hell with putting everything back together. Any tricks on hooking up to the brake bands and brake band adjustment bolt? Prior to all this work I put heat on the dozer for 2 hrs. Then I started it and smoothed out a spot with the blade. By the time I got done smoothing out the ground, the right side steering clutch was really squealing. I could barely move. Anyways here are the few photos that I got so far.
Thanks for the pictures and good luck. It looks like you are in for an interesting time. Keep us informed of what you do as much as you can so we can all learn. Hopefully someone will be able to help you out with some reassembly tricks.
We had already checked the strainer but did so again. Clean and does not seem to be the issue. Due to a death in the family things got put on hold until last week. Took the pump, modulator valve, and direction/speed/inching valve to the Komatsu service facility. They indicated the pump looked good and told me they had several D21 and D31 dozers come in a few years ago with simular symptoms. There was an issue with the strainer screen deteriorating and very small metal wire pieces getting into the modulator valve and causing it to stick. Today we will take the valve apart and clean all the parts and use emory cloth to ensure the parts are smooth. Anyone else hear of this? Mike
I think I found the bad clutch disc. You can actually see through it. Absolutely no meat on the disc whats so ever. Had to build a tool to hold the clutch so I could remove the bolts.
Hi Mike, (Jillmd), Nice tool you made to compress the clutch springs. I see your clutches are worn thin. Mine were not worn but rusted together in a bad way so I had trouble dis-engaging them as opposed to them slipping. Also both control shafts and needle bearings going through the steering case covers were pretty much rusted solid causing the breaks to lock up. The outside drum on mine was also rusted pretty bad and worn where the breaks engage. I replaced the clutch / break drums, all clutch discs, break bands, needle bearings, seals and control shafts that go through the steering case cover (both sides). However I did not replace the inner spline part of the clutch, I just sand blasted those clean. After sand blasting I recommend using a wire wheel to smooth off the roughness left by sand blasting, then use an oxy –acetylene torch to lightly blue the metal, doing that will help slow down rusting and give a smoother surface for the clutch plates to slide on. Amazing job you did taking it all apart in the freezing cold up there in Alaska, not to mention not much daylight this time of year either. You got to be tough as nails to pull that job off under those working conditions, nice going. No doubt you might have seen on page 100 where I did a similar break / clutch job? Except I did mine in June when it was like oh 75 degrees Let me get this straight - You drove the frig gen dozer 12 miles out into the wilderness of Alaska in the middle of the frig en winter to rebuild the clutches and breaks right? :Banghead You're not by chance related to any of those dudes featured on discovery channels "Gold Rush" are you? No disrespect, just wondering...... Keep the progress reports coming my friend. Larry G
That was almost rude about relating me to those fake gold miners. They would of paid some one to rebuild this **** or they would of left it. I know nothing about heavy equipment but I can turn a bolt. Larry I do appreciate everything you done for me, but this wasn't planned. I'm just doing what I can on getting this Dozer running. "****ing glory hole".
I know you didn't plant it that way. No disrespect or trying to be rude, Just trying to lighten up the situation a bit with some tong in cheek "humor" My apologies if in poor taste. I know the situation is not ideal. Your doing an amazing job under the circumstances and are to be commended. Those Gold "miners" ARE a joke, the whole thing is staged for "drama" I suppose. I stopped watching after I caught on to the gig they are trying to pull, it is so obvious. Now for the sticker shock of buying parts....... I could not believe how ridiculous prices are, it's criminal. What should cost 50 is 500 and that's no joke! Get all that you can from the supporting independent parts supplier(s) of this forum. Larry
Komatsu D40P-5 (Japanese) My D40P-5's forward/reverse lever (mechanical transmission) has started "falling out" of engagement. If the dozer is on an incline and not under a load it slips out of gear. It isn't jumping out it simply falls out. It always felt like there was a detent or click when engaging it but now is smooth and I can keep in gear by simply keeping my leg against it. I pulled the deck up and inspected the linkage hoping what ever held it in gear was external to the transmission but it appears to be internal. I'm concerned that a spring or something has either fatigued or broken and will cause internal damage. There is hardly any info on the internet on this model. I'm hoping a forum member can give me some advice on what is happening.
D21A-7 running hot My D21A-7 is runs right at the hot mark on gauge. Checked antifreeze and it is not low. Have cleaned radiator with low pressure water hose. Any other suggestions.
make sure u cant turn fan without the engine turning. could be loose belt
Since it does not appear to be leaking or low on antifreeze, check thermostat to see if it is not stuck closed, see if fan belt is slipping, if all looks good, check out your thermo coupler, and the wire to thermocoupler that it is not shorted. Lastly look at your hoses, they may be collasping internally. Ed
Any good decal suppliers out there? Looking to buy a set of decals for my 1991 D21P-6; some years ago a friend borrowed the machine to clear a pasture of briars and in return said he'd paint the dozer. Not that it really needed it but he did and right over the original decals. Most of what I see on ebay are newer gray decals, not the darkblue/black with white 21P. Searched in the forum and searched on the net but no luck yet. Appreciate any leads or people you have dealt with. Thanks Ed
Contact Brent at Associated Graphix Treewinder, he'll fix you up. > http://www.associatedgraphix.com/
I am the new owner of a D20A-7E and I'm in the process of changing out all the fluids. I have done everything except changed the main clutch and final drives. What do you guys use in your main clutch? The manual calls for 10W, but I have not been able to find it. What besides 10W can I use safely?
I have a D31p-18. I have a bearing noise in the transmission. I am pretty sure it is on the forward/reverse shaft. Has anyone ever been in this transmission? Had this problem or one similar?Time involved to R&I? Time to rebuild if you have all the parts? Any special tools needed that a decent mechanic couldn't make? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
Sprocket shaft I have the d20p-6 and I need a sprocket shaft if anyone knows where to get one, I have a price from komatsu, but last time I got one I paid half of dealers price... But not having any luck locating one now.. Thsnks
Buyer's inspection guide for D21A Day after tomorrow I will be inspecting a D21A-6 that has 2800 hours on the clock. I own two excavators -- a CAT303SR and a Komatsu PC02-1A -- but I have never owned a dozer. I've logged a few hours on a D21A-7E but never had to assume responsibility for maintenance. I (and perhaps other dozer dummies contemplating a D21A purchase) would be very grateful if someone familiar with typical D21A maintenance issues would reply with a checklist that might serve as a guide for thorough pre-buy inspection of used D21A machines.
10w is engine oil
Go to ironplanet.com and search under auction results. You should be able to find D21 that have been bought in the past year. In fact I bought one off of that site. They have a fairly comprehensive list of things they check. Good Luck, DBS
I finished installing the new steering clutches last month. Sorry that I didn't get back on here right away. One thing that I need to share with people is that when you replace these clutches you must adjust the release yokes. If you dont your new clutches might not fully engage. Like mine did. Also you wont find how to do this under diassembly and assembly steering clutches in the manual. Its under diassembly and assembly bevel gear shaft and bevel gear. Thanks to Larry and Darin for a few tricks on how to get the clutches back in and the clutch covers back on with ease and parts. The picture is of my cabin and garage. The pile to the right of the cabin was what I did with the dozer prior to our last 3 foot dump of snow.
Sweet looking place you have there. Glad things worked out for you. Can't see any neighbors.
Hi everyone. This has been a wealth of information for me as I have just brought home a D20A-5 w/6 way for my use. It is so much fun to "have" your own dozer! Serial # 58775 which according to Darin who had the time to look it up for me over the weekend is a 1986. I plan on doing my own work and tend to get attached to things when I buy them so I plan on having it a while. So my plans are to drop the top of a ridge in our front yard to put a building on in order to park the dozer, boat and Landcruiser. It's rocky as h*** so it's a challange but the little bit I bit off on the weekend actually went well. I hope to post some pics of the repairs I do and the land work being done as it looks like you guys are interested as I am on what the dozers are capable of. The things I know I need to do so far are. 1. Throttle cable. PO had arced it trying to pull starter while batteries still connected and welded it internally. Piece of string has been working so far for me though. Yep, Us in oklahoma can redneck with the best of em. Darin has found me one and I will be getting it shortly. 2. No (or very little) brake at pedal in conjuction with very little turning action to the right. With the levers coming all the way back to the seats, I plan on adjusting the two steering band adjustments first. 3. One blade lift cylinder leaking slow drip at front. 4. Temp gauge not working. (this one bothers me as I really like to know the status of the motor) I'll work on this one pretty quick. 5. Glow plug system not working whatsoever. (It's been getting a shot of ether) 6. Some times the clutch pedal stays down and slowly comes back up to look into. Far down project is a 3 pt system for a ripper system possibly. Thanks for everyone sharing on this thread and hope to contribute. I've learned a lot. Lenny
Hi Guys, for those of you with ROPS, could you please post some good photos from which I might build from. My Mitsubishi BD2G only came with the shade canopy, you see... Thanks.
Any body have any leads for parts on a Komatsu D20Q-3? Im around Seattle washington... USA. I need a steering clutch assembly.. one of the keepers let go and took out the spring and rods on one of the steering clutches.. All the parts are discontinued... Any help would be AWESOME! Contact Chris at 253 261 6324
Hi Chris, Had a look in our parts books (Komatsu Australia) but can't find a D20Q-3, the -5 part number is 103-22-00040 might fit but i have nothing to compare it to. Found one available from the below: http://www.marketbook.com.au/dealers/detail.aspx?CID=2821888&LP=MAT<f=PARTS Hope this helps.
There is a web site komatsupartsbook.com with as comprehensive a database of parts and schematics as I've seen. Another place to look is on Ebay. some of the resellers are real good to talk to and may have machines they are dismantling. There is an outfit in Boise called steeringclutch.com or tractorparts.com. They dismantle a large number of machines and may be of help. Another resource is Tractorhouse.com. They are primarily AG machinery but they have a parts search function and I have had luck with putting out a request and having somebody with that part call me up and sell it to me. Good luck John
How do i remove the fuel injector pump on a d20s? Something is holding it on from coming off. I need pics or a diagram or some sort of direction lists...any help is much appreciated..thank you.
I've got a d21 (believe early 90's). Lent it to a neighbor, and now I don't have the two speeds forward or revers, and it's very difficult to get into neutral. Anyone have any advice on what could be causing this? Thanks.
Here is a copy of a service manual for a D21S-6 if it will help. http://min.us/lZ0i5eKClnf99 Best,
My D21p-6 is bogging down after about an hour of work. Seems to bog down quicker the more I use the hyd. Dozer only had 4 gal of hyd fluid in it when I got it and I topped it off with a universal hyd fluid (10W20) until I get the new filter and 10W oil in. Bogging down occurred before I put any hyd fluid in. Changed fuel filter, still bogs down. Has anyone had this problem or know what I should check. Dozer has 3,200 hrs. It will sound like it is running out of gas when underload, after about an hour to two hours. Thanks for any help/direction.
I would start with the fuel system. Is the fuel free of water ? You changed the filter but you could have a partial blockage somewhere. Debris in fuel tank, may be a screen before the lift pump in a fitting that is clogged, might be sucking air. Once you are convinced you have good unrestricted flow of clean dry fuel to the fuel filter I would look at the air filter.
10w oil you can get 10w motor oil at tractor supply, I use 5w20w in my clutch
Thanks--I should have thought to check tractor supply. I have replaced air filters and disconnected fuel hoses and everything seems ok, however I am still bogging down after about 30min to an hour now--basically feels and sounds like I am about to run out of fuel. I am going to drain the rest of the tank and ensure fuel hoses are clear/clean to ensure no gunk and fresh gas and see how she does.
I had a very similar problem with my D21 (also a -6 model.) I was using NAPA (WIX) fuel filters and was having to change them every hour or two. I never did try letting the machine sit when the fuel would become restricted I'd just throw another filter on and go. I learned that if I used Komatsu or Luberfiner filters the problem went away. I have found several machines over the years this or that particular brand of filter wouldn't perform well on, for instance the Wix fuel filters split up the side seam when used on my Cat w/ a 3304 in it. Good Luck, Mitch
Thats pretty interesting Mitch. Did you ever get an idea of why the WIX filters were a problem? What would be plugging them in an hour I wonder.
I have noticed that my primer pump leaks a little when I pump it--is that normal? I have not noticed it leaking after screwed in.
Banjo was clogged--I think cleaning this has fixed the bogging issue. Thanks for help.
Those POS primer pumps are notorious for doing that, you should be able to obtain a replacement primer pump at a local injection shop for less money than purchasing from the Kommie dealer. Common common common problem.
Threw track and single handed replacing it on. (Field Fix)
My name is Darrell Butler from up north in Hoyt NB Canada. I recently purchased a D20P – 6 SN 6886 and seemed to be working ok for light pushing but found the left steering not as responsive as the right but was able to work machine ok. This past weekend I lost my drive power to the left track and when pulling on right steer lever there is no attempt to move left track. A friend told me to remove the lower plug to check if there was oil present in the left steer clutch area. I found there was no plug present on left or right side only the threaded holes. The left hole was plugged with mud and when I poked my finger up through I struck oil and probably a quart or so maybe more drained out. It is very dark and smells like gear oil. I removed the left final drive plug and found the oil level to be only down about 1” from plug hole. There are 2 oil dip sticks in the floor area the 1 on the right beside the brake appears to has sufficient fluid level but the dipstick to the rear in front of seat is barley touching the stick. I am a licensed automotive mechanic but have little experience with heavy equipment. I obviously will need to purchase a service manual as I doubt this is a minor repair with my luck. If someone could direct me in the right direction to where I can purchase a manual or any inside tips it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much
i have a d20a5 and it is leaking hydrolic fluid from the rear end from what looks like drain plugs but there is no plugs in the holes can anyone help
I have a problem with the forward/reverse shifter cable on my D21. Took off and tried to lube it with assortment of oils. No luck. Decided to replace. Havn't researched cost. Anyone know where to find replacement? Heard of place in Tulsa (about an hour away) the builds cables. Would like to know more info on cost before having this place build me one. Thanks.
Kent Baugh on ebay is where I got the replacement shifter cable for my D21--works fine and shipped quickly
I have a D21P-6. The left steering clutch is stuck togather, will not release, so I'm trying to remove it, I suspect it is swelled due to rust on the steel plates, I have not been able to get the clutch out. I can not compress it enough to get the needed clearance to get it off of the flanges on both sides at once. Does anyone know of anything I can do or any thing I can soak it in to deesolve the rust enough to get it out? Thanks
cblank.... Basically you will need to either drive wedges between the flange and the inner drum to get the clearance or cut the outer drum. You can cut it with a small air cutoff tool or torches but proceed at your own risk. I have done this both ways and cutoff tool is cleanest and doesn't smell nearly as bad... PLUS no risk of fire especially if you have had a oil leak in the reservoir. The drums are a lot cheaper to replace that than the flanges if you bust them tryign to pry the inner drum inside the outer drum. I have the clutches also in stock. Good luck and let us know how you make out.
darinray Thanks for the quick response. I hadn't thought of using the air cutoff tool. I'm going on a trip for a few days but I will get back on it in a few days. I will let you know the result. Thanks again, cblank
I know this isnt the for sale section but thought I would throw this out there- I have a service manual for the D21-7E I just sold for sale along with a spare roller and a few odds and ends. The manual is actually on a USB card and the roller is used but a good spare to get someone out of trouble. If interested PM me. My dozer was #79300.
Just purchased a D20s-6 that did not turn to the left. Have it tore down and found left steering clutch area with an inch or so of oil in bottom (should be dry). Oil appears to be coming from the left final drive pinion seal. Left Steering brake soaked in oil so it was not holding at all. Steering clutch was not wet but was stuck. I noticed two ather places oil could come from in that area...the bevel gear case or the steering clutch hydrolic plunger?
I have a D20a-5 and am looking for the aftermarket p/n for the fan belt if anyone happens to have it. I also have a stupid question, should the fan be blowing air out the front of the machine and not pulling in cool air past the radiator as a truck or car does? I changed the drive chains, sprockets, top carriers last week and even had a few hours to play I mean work before I had to return back to NJ. Thanks Darrin for the help! It is a really nice machine to work with. I still have to change thermostat, belt, temp. sender and fluids as I get time but the big job is done.
A lot of fans are reversible, push the blades down or in and turn them. in the winter you can have the fan blow the warm air at you instead of out the front.
I have a kamatsu d20a-5 that I nust bought it has a serial number 47287 on the tag. Can anyone tell me what year it issues. Thanks
My fan belt broke about a year ago on my A6 model. I took it to a local NAPA store and they found one that was a hair shorter or longer, don't remember now, but was easily able to adjust the alternator to make it fit just right. My fan blows out the front. My thinking is that it is better so the radiator fins don't get clogged up with dust and leaves, etc. Here in Texas, I don't need the heat of the engine blowing back on me. :tong
Got my D20s-6 going this last week. Replaced steering clutches, brakes, seals, resealed steering clutch valve and steering clutch plunger seals. I want to thank the people on this site for the information they have made available over the past couple of years. I had never been into a dozer before but found the job to be very doable and after reading post from folks with similar issues, I felt like I had been into one of these before, everything was familiar after reading posts and veiwing pic's. Dozer seems to work fine now. After dozer was back to gether it would fal flat on power. Thought I was looking at maybe a major engine issue......found post with response that lead me to a 30 min fix.....bango bolt on fuel connection on bottom side of fuel delivery pump located on side of injection pump was clogged up. Cleaned the plastic strainer located inside the bolt and the thing runs like a top. Thanks again guys!
My d21p-6 stalled in a wood pile and will not start back up. Just clicks like bad solenoid. Jumpered solenoid, motor will not turn. I need to get it out so I can check it out. Can I remove the starter without removing the belly pan? G
Are you sure it's not a bad battery problem instead? I'm no expert on these dozers, but I know that in most cars, if you turn the key and the solenoid just clicks, it's usually a bad battery. I would sure look into that before diving into the starter, if it were me. You can put a meter on each battery, one at a time and check the voltage in a stable state, then turn the key and see if the voltage drops way down. A good battery should not drop but a couple of volts when running the starter. If it drops several volts when the key is turned to start, I would think that is your problem. You can buy a cheap meter at Harbor Freight for about five bucks if you don't already have one. It could have been a good battery when it started the dozer, but developed an internal short while the dozer was operating. I know that the last time I had to replace the battery on my car, it started just fine when I got in it to go to work one morning, and at noon when I was going to get lunch, it wouldn't spin the starter and just clicked. I jumped it off to get home that evening and went back out about an hour after I got home and again, it wouldn't spin the starter. Not saying this is what it is, but it's a lot easier to check this than crawling under it where you say it stalled. Doesn't sound to me like a place in which I would want to crawl under it. Good ole Murphy's Law, eh? Good luck with it.
Red, Thanks for your reply. The batteries are new, but I pulled them anyway and put a full charge on them on the bench just in case. Since you said that. I might take them to a parts house and have them load tested just to be sure. G
Glen, I was looking at the shop manual I have here. The electrical section consists of one page, the schematic. I did electronics work for 25 years and have read a ton of schematics before, but this Japanese schematic is a bit confusing on some of the labeling and symbols, with no explanations of what some of it is. There doesn't appear to be any fuses related to the starting motor or solenoid or switch. There are several of what appears to be connectors and terminal strips in the loop between the batteries, key switch, solenoid, and starter. Perhaps you have a bad connection in one of them? I have never looked at my D20A-6 to see where the starter motor is, but I'm assuming it is on the bottom of the motor like most cars. I'm wondering if maybe you ran over something that could have broken a wire or pulled something loose around the starter. It would continue to run if that happened, but would not start after the engine stopped. I'm just throwing things out here that you might check. I have also seen a week old battery go bad with a shorted cell where it would not start the vehicle. A replacement battery was all it took to fix the problem. Not saying that's your problem, but it is a possibility. If the starter motor is shorted internally, I'm not sure what the symptoms would be. It may click the solenoid too, for all I know. Maybe someone with more knowledge on this will show up here to help out. I wish you the best of luck with it. Let us know what you find out, please. That's what this is all about.
I am about 90% sure you can pull that starter without pulling the belly pan. Diagnosing this problem can be frustrating since there are several problems with the same symptoms. A clicking sound can be batteries, starter, or a bad connection. A drop of a few volts at the batteries when you hit the key can be bad batteries or bad starter. The key is to do your testing in an organized manner, and not skip steps or assume things. You need a voltmeter and someone who can turn the key. I also use a test light, but it's not necessary. If you still have the batteries out load testing them is a good idea. If you know the batteries are good and you are still getting a significant voltage drop at the battery posts, NOT the cable ends, it is a good bet the problem is the starter. Before you pull the starter, whack it in 2 or 3 different spots with a hammer while your helper holds the key to start. If you don't get a voltage drop at the batteries, you have to go find it. Check both large terminals on the solenoid and the battery cable ends. Good Luck, Mitch
Has anyone added any hydraulic remotes for the back off a d20?
Check post #510 on page 34 with the main stuff on the following pages.
you wouldn't have any info on the transmisson, or what to trouble shoot for? we have only one track that turns... not sure if it seized or other wise. It has sat for a while. our is a d21-6.
I may be totally wrong, but I doubt it is a transmission problem, partsgirl. I believe it would drive both sides equally if it was working. I believe your problem would more likely be in the clutches that drive the two sides. Perhaps one of them is not engaged? I don't know, just throwing out my thoughts. Maybe one of our gurus will arrive soon to help.
Been a member for a while, but just now posting after reading all 113 pages of info. Whewwww! Learned a lot :scool and look forward to learning more! We had a D20 a couple of years ago, sold it and regretted doing so, but now have a D21P-6, serial number 46282 (don't know the year). The only problem we've found is rusted gear shift cables. Thanks to Darin they're on the way and should be replaced Saturday. Can't wait to get going again!
Welcome to the forum, RusselB. I did the same thing when I joined. I read the entire thing. Took a couple of days to do so, but it was worth it. There is a ton of information here. I just wish it were indexed somehow so we could find it faster. If I had the time, I would build an index for it myself and share it with everyone. Maybe when I get retired I can do that.
Thanks RRR. An index would be great! I didn't take notes of the post numbers while reading the 113 pages.......probably should have!
Adjustment of Transmission Shift Cables D21P-6 I replaced both shift cables and now only have neutral and forward. Does anyone know the procedure for adjusting the two cables, have any photos, etc.? Any suggestions, help would be appreciated!
When I had that problem it was too much slack in the shifter. I rebushed it and it worked well
mitch504........after much back and forth adjustment I finally got 1 reverse and 2 forward. Like you, I found slack at the shifter and also some at the other end of the cables at the levers at the valve. I must be blind because I don't see the bushings you referenced. Are they inside the two shifter pivot points? I can't find (don't have a parts manual) a diagram with part numbers. Is there some source online you are aware of? Thanks for your help!
If I remember right, I cut the holes back to round and put in bronze bushings, but it's been a while.
Thanks for the info. I'll try some more adjusting and check into the availability of some new parts before drilling and bronze bushing.
Try this. Sounds like a good price for it and you can download instead of waiting for it to be mailed to you. http://www.servicerepairmanualonline.com/8905/komatsu-d21a-e-p-pl-s-q-6-manual/ And for parts, try this. http://komatsupartsbook.com/
Hi RRRancher, I found both sources you referenced! Thanks for the info. The servicerepairmanualonline is listed as a shop manual. I found a shop manual, but there are no instructions on adjustment of the cables in it. As I mentioned to mitch504, the other connecting parts are so worn I'm looking at replacing them. Will keep both of you posted. Thanks again!
I was just looking at my shop manual, which covers your model also. The only cable I see is for the inching control linkage on page 22-14. Everything else appears to be rods that you adjust. Am I missing something here? I understand that you will probably replace them due to wear, but I'm still wondering where these cables are located. I thought this shop manual had adjustments for everything in it, and I don't know of any other manual for these dozers other than the small Operations and Maintenance manual. But it doesn't have near as much as the shop manual. The dealer I bought my dozer from gave me his shop manual to copy and he said it was all they used to do anything with. Since then, I found these online manuals which have much better quality pictures than the copy of a copy I made from his manual.
I found the D21 manual to be an absolute bare bones manual. It has worked ok for me since I mostly wanted specs anyway. The shifter on a d21-6 is definitely cable operated. A D20 should be linkage.
When you mentioned "cutting holes back to round" did you mean the holes in the ends of the two levers (on the transmission end of the shift cables) that move the actuator rods in the spool of the speed, F-R, and inching valve on top of the transmission case? These levers are shown on page 21-36 of Transmission Control in the copy of the manual I have. The biggest problem I've found is that at some time someone replaced the ROD END on the shift lever end of the speed cable with a yoke which does not align with the slot in the shifter lever. I have an inquiry out to find the correct rod end. Maybe that one part will solve most of the adjustment problem...........
Seems like my slack was all in the handle end, iirc.
I'll look real close at the handle lever for slack, thanks for the tip. Got a used rod end coming; was told it was in good shape. Maybe it will solve a lot of the problem.
Hi new to thread and spent 4 days reading. Need help as have D21P-5 when got it home would not steer right first three days then did a little adjusting and now steers right good and stopped steering left so parked on some timbers then checked plugs for steering clutches(right gone/missing) left one there , removed it and got close to a quart of oil and water out of it. Left final drive is down oil but not dry. Was woundering were oil is coming from that got into steering clutch and how to fix it? I will be(looking) for manuals for this machine! Thanks for any and all advice!
Montana Cowboy just went through same issue with a recent purchased D20s-6. When I tore it down I found that the left final drive pinion seal was leaking and had soaked the steering brake. Final drive oil level was only down less than an inch. Had to make a puller to get the drive flange off of the pinion gear to replace the seal.....the mating surface is tappered and it seemed to take a lot of pressure before it released. The seal surface on the flange was pitted so I ended up putting a seal surface repair collar on the flange before putting back together. (Cost of $65 for repair collar compared to $750 for new flange) Also replaced all steering clutches and new brake bands. Machine has run very well so far.....a little over 50 hours on it since repair. Good luck on your repair.
Thanks hoping all goes well and get lucky and is same as yours, yes final down maybe 0.5/0.75 of an inch!
Hello, I am new to this site and just wanted to see if anyone had a d20 or 21 for sale near NY? I own an excavation business and mainly do utility work so I don't have a dozer as I only need one from time to time and rent one when I do. My grandfather who was just diagnosed with terminal cancer has always wanted to have a dozer to play with. I am looking to buy one mainly for him but also to use on job from time to time. I like the looks of these machines as they are pretty simple and agile and best of all can be pulled on a 7 ton trailer. If anyone has one or knows of one for sale around NY I would be interested. Let me know and thanks in advance for the help! -Jon
Wanted to see if you guys could give me a little advice on a dozer I am looking at and considering purchasing. It is a Komatsu D20A-5 (SN#58778) which I assume is from the early 1980s. It is a narrow track and appears in good condition and has had a lot of upkeep done on it over the years. The undercarriage, idlers, sprockets, tracks, etc. all look good as does the blade, paint, etc. It has a six-way blade the owner says. The owner doesn't know how many hours are on it and he says it has some major blow by. It starts and runs good, has good power, etc., but blows diesel smoke and even some raw fuel is in the smoke. He says it needs a ring job and he wouldn't recommend I use it for more than loading/unloading and a short demo. My question is how much is a dozer of this year, model and condition worth? The seller is asking $5500 for it which on the surface appears to be very reasonable to me compared to CAT D3s and JD350s of the same age and condition. How much should I expect to put into it to get the engine gone through and what will be the value of the dozer once I have it repaired? Just don't want to bite on something that after repairing will not be worth nearly what I have in it. I don't know much about these little dozers and need some guidance. Are engines and parts for this dozer readily available. Thanks, Dana Tomes, Lesage, WV.
I have a komatsu d20s and I am looking for a ripper and a external pto pump and I am from alberta Canada anybody know where I can find one
@ RRRancher, I am a technician, I have followed your instruction for searching my komatsu wa300-3 service repair workshop manual on these site; _http://www.servicerepairmanualonline.com/ _http://komatsupartsbook.com/ but unfortunately, they only show me wa300L-3 (with L in the middle), I have asked supplier in my place several days ago but still no answer, can anyone help me.. please I am newbe on this forum, Sorry for disturbing you all...
Intractor, I don't know anything about wheel loaders, but I went to the service manuals website I referenced in a previous post and found this page that refers to a WA300-1 Wheel Loader. Is this what you are looking for? http://www.servicerepairmanualonline.com/2381/komatsu-wa300-1-manual/
Dana, I don't know what a ring job will cost for a D20, but if the rest of the dozer is in good shape, mainly the undercarriage and the drive train, I would think it would be worth having done. And the parts are available. If not from a Komatsu dealer, there are folks who sell replacement parts. Darin is one of the posters here and the last I heard, he is still selling parts. His contact info can be found in some of his posts here. I will tell you that I paid $11,500 for my D20A-6 that had a completely reworked undercarriage, including new sprockets and rollers. The engine doesn't smoke at all unless fully loaded, so I think it had been rebuilt as the broken hour meter has been on 5863 hours since I got it. I would think if the engine was completely original, it would at least smoke a bit. The hydraulics don't leak a drop. I have the steering clutch valve and cylinders removed right now to fix a fluid leak, but that is the only repair I have had to do to it since I got it. This is just a paper gasket leaking so I have made new gaskets and will install them and reassemble it this weekend. These are great little utility dozers. Forty horsepower isn't enough to fell a huge tree in one shove, or push a large pile of dirt at one time, but if you are patient, you can work on the tree or the pile a little at a time and take care of both of them. I have dug three wildlife ponds and one larger pond with mine and a 38 HP John Deere compact tractor, so it will definitely move some dirt. Below is a picture of my latest wildlife pond and the Komatsu sitting in the shade behind it. It's hard to tell from this poor picture, but the pond is almost six feet deep in the middle where the four-wheeler is parked, and that is a solid clay bottom. No sand. The D20 had no problem shaving it out of there about 3 to 6 inches at a time. Maybe others with more knowledge will chime in here. Good luck with it.
@ RRRancher, thanks for your reply, we have already manual and service books for wa-300-1, wa-300L-3, but we didn't have any information about wa-300-3 both manual book or service book, I have emailed komatsu Japan several weeks ago, but unfortunately we haven't received any respons or email, and it is frustating us...:Banghead
Wow, sorry for misreading that. For some reason I thought you needed it for a 300-1, not a 300-3. If you have problems getting anything from Komatsu directly, we have a Komatsu dealership here where I live that can get service manuals and parts manuals for just about anything Komatsu made or makes. Their name is Waukesha-Pearce Industries, Inc. Their website address is http://www.wpi.com/
@ RRRancher Ok thanks , I have sent them email "Thank you for your inquiry, a WPI representative will contact you shortly." hopefully they give me best solutions..
For those of you looking for it before, if you remember, we could find no Wix or other cross reference for the hydraulic filter for a D20. I bought one at Waukesha-Pearce today for $28.22 plus tax. I also got a fuel filter for it and that was $13.71. I wanted to get the outer air filter also, but it only comes in a package with the inner filter, and it was, if I remember correctly, over $70.00. I decided I would just pull my outer filter off and blow it out with an air hose and nozzle. The inner still looks brand new. If it looked like it needed changing, I would spend the money for the package. The parts guys at Waukesha-Pearce are extremely nice, patient, and helpful to me. Hopefully you will be treated the same if you call in an order to them. Their main office is in Houston, TX, but my local one is in Kilgore, TX, about 15 miles from my home.
Can anyone help me with a starter problem on my 1994 Komatsu D21p6. Starter just makes a whirring or spinning sound like the bendix is not engaging the flywheel. Anyone ever had this problem? If so suggestions on a fix.
Yeah Mine somehow turns the engine about one revolution and then kicks out. Luckily the engine starts after the 3rd try if everything else is OK. I took the starter to a local Waco, TX rebuild shop and they claimed they couldn't get the clutch parts required to fix the bendix from NIKKO. A fellow from Ft Worth said he got a shop over there to fix his. I guess it has a lot to do with who they know and which parts suppliers they are using. My machine also has the no-restart setup with the alternator feedback secondary relay. After much head scratching I figured out that the secondary relay is an add on to the plain old starter. They are very proud of their starter. I've seen them as high as 800 bucks. Best prices are thru some of the better aftermarket rebuilders. Get the part number off your starter and start calling around to various truck and tractor industrial rebuilders. Perhaps you will find one who will fix it right with good parts. Let us know what you turn up.
Thanks fore the info. How much trouble is it to get that sucker out. I just bought this dozer 2 months ago and have not had the opportunity, or should I say reason, to get into the engine compartment yet. DS
You just have to believe there isn't an easier way and get after it. I have made most of the typical mistakes at least once so I am getting better at just putting shoulder to the wheel and pushing rather than looking at it for days trying to figure out a better way. It helps a lot to jack the machine up and set it on blocks so you have room to move around down there. If it runs and moves you can back it onto blocks and then use the blade to lift the front end. Recently I broke down and got one of those battery operated impact wrench tools. Before that I used a cheater bar to loosen the bolts holding the belly pans onto the underside of the dozer. The manual says use a transmission jack to lower the pans down and as I get older I am more inclined to do that. Paraphrasing manual 1) Disconnect negative battery terminal 2) Remove undergaurd with transmission jack 3) Remove left hand engine shield 4) Disconnect throttle lever linkage if its in the way. 5) You’ll probably want to pull the main floor plate just to see what’s going on under there. There is a clamp that corrals the throttle cable, wiring and the fuel line which it helps to pull loose. 6) Disconnect fuel hose to pump. (figure out how you are going to plug the lines before you pull them loose) Now would be a good time to install an in line fuel shut off valve since they don't come with one. Also there is a fuel tank sump drain valve which will get rid of water and crud once you ream it out and reestablish flow. It’s a good way to drain the tank if you need to. 7) Disconnect wiring to starter motor 8) Unbolt starter and remove The starter comes out from the front left of the engine but the bolts need to be gotten to from underneath to the left of the main clutch casting. I forget how much plumbing needs to be moved to get to it but its not bad. While you have the belly pans off remove the pump strainer / filter in the main clutch casting and clean it out. My plugged strainer caused the steering clutches to act as if they were frozen up when in fact there was no hydraulic pressure to work them. Add clean oil to the clutch casing after reinstalling the strainer. Change the engine oil and look for other leaks etc. Also Wix makes all the filters on the machine except for the big Hydraulic filter. Fram has a great cross-reference data base where it lists where used and competitors numbers. One more tidbit. Oreilly auto parts sells a diesel fuel strainer I believe goes to a Mercedes car for about 3 bucks. Komatsu wants $70+ for theirs. I put one in right where the fuel line exits the tank and its already half full of crud. Saves blocking up the screen in the banjo fitting under the fuel pump. An added bonus is I can see how much crud is in the strainer and it’s easy to get at from in back. There was cover back there under the battery shelf originally but I took it off years ago and don’t miss it.
we also got something like this but in other units, according to your explanation, this is because of your bendix motor is napless, changed it to the new one...
I just finished replacing some steel hydraulic lines on my TD7G. I had no experience in steel lines. I sought and recieved help and opinions on the Tractor Forum then posted how it went. There may be a lot of gibberish to wade thru in the thread but if you are interested in what it takes (tubing, fittings, and tools) to run DIY steel lines it might be worth a look. It was a pretty interesting project and steel lines are not a mystery to me any more. To look at the pictures on that site left click on the picture then use the return arrow (screen upper left) to get back where you were. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/parts-repairs/291401-need-advise-replacing-steel-hydraulic.html gg
Decellerator Pedal Has anyone installed a decellerator pedal on a D21. Can I purchase parts that will retro fit or will I need to fab everything?
What was the part number for the Hydraulic Filter
20" Swamp Pads For D20P-6 Anyone near Collins,MS needing to replace a bad pad I just removed my old chain and Pads and I am in the process of installing new Sprocket Rims , Chains , Rollers and new Grouser Pads. NO CHARGE if you need a few.
My Battery Pholosophy Someone asked: What I need to know now is what standard american batteries have some of you folks used? In other words what will fit, and provide the cranking amps needed required. Hi Guys, I'm new here and I realize this post is fairly old but the topic is of interest to me and I don't see anyone saying what I'm about to say so... here goes. I worked for over 12 years in the "old school" auto parts industry and there is some info I picked up about batteries that I think bears repeating. Lead/Acid batteries have lead plates that stand in sulphuric acid and the chemical reaction between the two produces electrical current. The amount of surface area of the lead plates that is exposed to the acid determines how quickly the chemical reaction can take place. Also the thickness of the lead plates determines how much capacity the battery has to "hold" a charge. You may have noticed that batteries have two different numbering systems that are designed to give you an idea of how the battery performs. The first, and most quoted, number is CCA (Cold Cranking Amperage). In simple terms this is how many amps the battery is designed to "pump" out when the battery is cold or how quickly the power in the battery can be jolted into the system. To acheive higher CCA the manufacturer will try to increase the surface area of the lead plates inside the battery. To keep the battery the same size so it will still go in the dozer they have to make the lead plates much thinner and put more of them in. But this also DECREASES the amount of lead in the battery so it DECREASES the Length of time that the battery can put out that kind of amps. This "length of time" is what the other number on the battery stands for and it is called "Reserve Capacity". What this translates to in real life is you can have a battery with high CCA that turns the engine over FAST or you can have a battery with high Reserve Capacity that (when it is cold) will turn over more slowly but will turn over much longer (or run the lights much longer). You can't have BOTH unless you go with a bigger battery which may not fit. My experience through the years has unfailingly indicated that I do not need high cranking amps as much as I need high reserve capacity. So I have chosen for at least 25 years to opt for Deep Cycle Marine Batteries on all of my equipment and autos. When the temp drops to zero they crank slower but MUCH longer. (This is helpful on a cold diesel.) My lights were accidentally left on at work (in my pickup) for over 4 hours and the battery cranked it as though they hadn't been left on. Specifically on my D20A-5 I am running two 24DCM batteries from the local auto parts (that stands for group 24 Deep Cycle Marine). They are a bit more pricey than "normal" batteries but much less than OEM, and they WORK GREAT. Put the DCM next to a normal battery of the same size and heft them... you'll immediately feel the difference in "Reserve Capacity". The DCM is noticably heavier. They are a snug fit but mine have worked very well for years. Best Wishes, Richard
What a good explanation of that trade off. Thank you for posting. I just bought a new battery for my one ton dump truck with an electric over hydraulic dump cylinder. Like you said, the only thing any one talked about was CCA. If I had seen your post earlier I could have asked more questions about RC which until now did not know about. Thanks again.
You are welcome You are very welcome. I'm glad it was helpful. I forgot to mention that very large trucks and equipment have very large and very heavy batteries because they need both CCA and RC, but the trade-off still exists. Unless you are where the temps go into the negative regularly, you will probably appreciate a DCM battery.
Silly question but how many pads do you have and what would you want for all of them? I have a D20A5 and would love to experiment with some "p" pads to modify to fit. I will be coming near there going to and from Ft Bliss via I 20. If you want to get rid of/sell them PM me or leave a message for me to call PM you. Thanks in advance. John
Post 1727 was in relation to this post
I wonder if anyone has ever tried 2x4's in place of rubber pads?
Not sure how to start a new thread, but I was wondering if any of you d21 guys ever considered replacing your engine with a bigger one, maybe a d31? seems like a 70hp d21 would rock. Pros and cons anyone....
I got mine from my dad a few weeks ago he is in his 80's now, it was stuck in the woods with a very large pine tree on top of it ever since Katrina in 05. It took 3 days to get it started and out of the woods, the tracks were froze would only turn left and the clutch slipped. I used this forum to learn what to do and what fluids to use, lots of things were wrong and adjustments way out and the skid plates had so much dirt in them I had bushes growing out off the floorboard. Four more weeks of tracking down filters fluids and learning what should be and how much it should be like the clutch fluid had 5 gallons of oil in it! It lives!! this thing is a beast now, I have cleared 5 acres of heavy woods and working on a large pond too. Thanks to all the contributors.
If design engineering is done properly, all things are relative tlogan. Allis-Chalmers ran into this problem back in their day when they upgraded their machines from Detroit Diesel engines to higher horsepower/torque Budda engines, the latter started tearing out final drives because of the stronger Budda engine. A-C attempted to redesign, but by then they never regained their market share to Cat. Even with their flaws, they're still sturdy little machine. Enjoy it pusherboy.
Hi, I've read through all 116 pages of this post, but can't seem to find the info I am looking for. I've been going through my D21P-6, and am going to change all of my fluids. It been cold here now for a couple weeks, ( -20 during the days, and -35 at nights ), and I have some clearing i would like to get done on the frost. I'm just wondering if the fluids the manual recommends will work in this type of weather. There is lots of great information on this post, thanks to all who posted. Chris
I couldn't find any 10w oil for the clutch so I went with 10w40 and it made the clutch stop slipping, I think it had way too much hydraulic oil in it and that made the clutch slip anyway I was going by what happened with my four wheeler when it got a dose of synthetic oil it started slipping and stopped when it was changed out.
New to the site,luv all the info.I have a D21-6 slow starting in any weather.Does anybody know what the cold cranking amps should be for the batteries? Both together
Yeah mine does that too but as soon as the temps go back to around 70 it cranks on a bump even cold so I think I need glow plugs. I do have a tip they gave me at the Komatsu dealer regarding my frozen tracks they said to mix the old engine oil with fuel in a bug sprayer and soak the tracks down, that has helped my tracks tremendously. I had to get batteries too and I measured the battery box the size of the box only allows for a standard car battery and the manual calls for 2x60 amp hrs so I just bought 2 $58 batteries at walmart and they work fine.
Staver bros. In auburn has a D21 for sale 11000.00 its on ebay.
If your glowplugs aren't heating up when you turn your ignition to the left then the little spring that lights up is probably burned out. Just tie the two wires together and it will heat the glowplugs and should start righ tup in cold weather.
I doubt if you need glow plugs. I had the same problem and my problem was the little spring that is supposed to turn red when you turn yur key to the left to heat the glowplugs was burned out. I tied the two wires together and now in cold weather I turn the key to the left for about 12 seconds to heat the glowplugs and it fires right up in cold weather.
I think that will be my problem since nothing gets hot in the finger hole. I almost got knocked off the dozer the other day when a branch slapped the paint off the machine beside me, I'm now building a roll cage and thinking about some sort of limb protection too, maybe some grating.
Anyone found a starter that will work on a d21s that is less than 500.00?I was thinking about a yanmar starter or an isuzu starter or possibly a fiat allis starter.
Have you tried to rebuild the one you have? Or have someone rebuild it?
Oh yes they tell me they can't get the parts for it.I am going to visit Darinray and see if he has the parts I need. But most likely I will just go ahead and spend the money for a starter. I found 1 for 400.00 so I will only have around 4000.00 in the machine. It seems ok other than the starter.
has anyone seen or know how to put an deacceleration pedal on a D21?
does anybody know if any of the parts from the d21p-5, -6, and -7 are interchangable? IE: steering clutchs, trans parts and undercarriage? looking at a d21pl-5 with hand lever steering,
DwayneC.... D21PL-5 have SOME interchangeable parts but no really with the -6 and -7 machines. More like -3 and -5 are closer together. BUT if you do need anything for your machine contact me anytime..
its actually a d21p-5 im looking at with a strait tilt blade, i have access to all the parts manuals and repair manuals (work for a komatsu dealer) and have checked a few numbers and they seem still available, is there anything a guy should look out for on the -5 machines? how are the 4d94 engines? how do you check years? the serial number is 51211 on the one im looking at...
It appears to be a 1981.. The motors are great IF maintained. What kind of price breaks do you get from part at Komatsu. I may be interested... LOL...
price break isnt as good as i though it would be on the few items i have checked, and all the parts gotta come from ripley tennessee, and im in northern canada, is there a place for aftermarket clutches and steels for trans and steering?
Oh yeah.. Your looking at him... Well looking at my post. I carry all the steering clutches, brake bands, seals, bearings, and etc in stock. Give me a shout if and when you need any parts...
Whats the going price on a decent shape d21p-5? I could send some pics if someone wants to see it.
well bought it, go down and get it in about 2 weeks... i have not seen many of these d21p with the strait tilt blade setup. i guess they have the same track gauge as a d21a but the blade lift arms allow it to run the wide pads...
Nice find
I was wondering if anyone has some phot's of the type of brush, bushes and trees that one could realistically deal with without overworking the machine. I thought about getting one of these. But, thought I might need to go to the D31. I've got a lot of underbrush (vines, deadlimbs) and such that I want to push into small piles and burn. So, I was hoping to see what size of tree one could push without abusing the machine. Good informative site. Has answered several questions about the Komatsu dozer. James
Ok I am new to the forum. Got my D20P-6 last summer and went through it pretty good. Love it and it is fun to run. Read all 117pages and learned a lot to look for as I went through it. Learned about the clutches locking up so I try to move it every time I go to the ranch. I figured out if after you use it if you wait for it to cool down then move it just a little it won't be locked up the next time you go to use. I have let it sit without use over the last 4 months during hunting season and it seems as though my steering clutches are not releasing very well. Moved it back and forth for 5 minutes the last time I was there and they seemed to start to work better. Reading on this forum I saw something about a strainer that could be clogged up. My question is, is there only one strainer that should be kept clean? I have looked through some parts diagrams and found a strainer on the main clutch housing, is this it? If not, where would one find this strainer? Thanks
James I use my down in S texas and can push over most trees up to about 4 inches. If its bigger you can push it over then work around the base. Most of my brush is mesquite and weesatche both have deep tap roots and I can still get them out of the ground.
I think I know there is only one strainer. When you pull it out do you lose all the oil? Should you drain it first?
I have pushed over stuff up to 8" to 10" without a problem. On the larger stuff I will angle the blade to cut a line at 90* to the direction of push on the side I will be pushing from to cut the roots. This weakens that side it also keeps the root ball from wanting to roll up behind the blade. You do have to have good traction to do this though. If you are in muddy ground forget it. You just have to remember it is not a larger machine and take smaller nibbles on big things. I have with no problem pushed fallen stuff up to around 20" and twnety to thirty feet long with no problem. Well no problem till one or both ends get jammed up against sometihing big, then you come to a stop or start going in circles pushing it around whatever it hooked up against.
Just remember when pushing over a dead tree, that the top may snap and fall on you. I just heard of a friend of a friend that was doing this with a small dozer and the top snapped off and came down on him. He is now a paraplegic. I have resorted to cutting dead trees off about chest high, which leaves plenty of height on the stump to get good leverage with the blade when removing it. Be safe out there.
James, I have a 50 acre tree farm that is overgrown with sweet gum trees interspersed in the pines and oaks. I use my D20A-6 to root these out and leave the oaks and pines more room. I just took a picture last week of a typical looking area that will be worked on soon. The D20 will run right through the sweet gums in this picture, but if I had to take out the larger pine in the left side background (looks like about 5 or 6 inches in diameter), I would likely have to angle the blade and take out some roots around the base of it first before pushing it over. I have found that you can start pushing against the base and then raise the blade, which does a pretty good job of plucking the tree out of the ground enough for it to fall on over. I don't feel like I'm abusing the dozer on trees up to about five or six inches in diameter, but I had an eight inch sweet gum in the way of my driveway that I took out after about 15 minutes of cutting roots, digging out dirt, and pushing on it from all sides a few times before it finally let go. I stalled it out two or three times in the process, which is not something I like to do. It isn't a big, heavy D6 or D9, and the little 40 horse engine has its limits. But if you have patience, you can do some amazing things with it. If you are in more of a hurry, I would say bigger is better. I like this size because I can get in and around things I want to leave without damaging them. And I have the rest of my life to clean up this 50 acre area, so the D20 suits me fine.
Good point on the 'widow makers', they are called that for a reason. I have had a couple come bouncing down on the ROPS I have. I have the real one and not the sunshade version. It makes a lovely gong noise. The other fun thing to watch out for is if you are pushing a bunch of blow/push down trees be very careful about things coming into the cab with you. I had a tree limb/spear come right over the top of the engine and damn near pin me to the seat like a bug. Trust me when I say it doesn't take long for something like this to happen even at the slow speed of these dozers. One of the other things you can do to get larger stuff is first is like I said cut the push side roots then as RRRancher pointed out to cut the stuff around the other sides but push that dirt to the push side to make a ramp of sorts. this will allow you to get a little higher up and apply a bit more leverage to it. As a last resort(because I am a bit lazy). If you can climb the tree a bit hook a chain or cable to it and pull it over. I got about 300ft of 5/8" cable from a crane company for free. The only thing I had to do was sign a letter saying I would not use it for lifting and that I understood that it was being taken out of service due to age. Not a bad deal when I am using it to pull trees off of hillsides. I have cut it into two sections of 100 and 200ft that I can hook together if I have to. It is a heck of a lot easier to pull that cable up to a tree either by hand or with a four wheeler than to get the dozer up there. and as a plus I now don't tear up the ground as much with the dozer.
I hear ya on the spears, John. I had one try to take my right arm off once. It sure doesn't take them long to get in the cab with you. And I have the fiberglass sun shield on mine, or what's left of it. But once I get moved out to the property and settled in, a ROPS with screen sides and back is going to be one of my first projects. I like your idea of building a mound of dirt on the push side. I'll have to give that a try next time. Thanks for the idea. I would love to have a long cable like the one you have. My chain is only about 30 feet long and heavy as the dickens. No way I could throw it over a limb. I'll have to keep a look out for one on Craig's List.
RRR, Your situation is simular to mine. Although I don't really want to clear out good trees. I mean I just want to clear the dead, split, leaning, and limbs and branches that were left by harvesters years ago. I've mainly been looking at D4, or JD 650 or Case 850 sized dozers. But, I thought I'm not clearing it to make pasture land out of it and might could get by with a slightly smaller dozer. I looked at Trackloaders and they're harder to find than dozers around here. Anyway thanks for the reply. I'll try posting some pictures of my property by Tyler. The first picture is of the entrance to the property. The second is of the largest pile to burn. It's one of 9 so far.The third one is just a picture of all the trees. THe fourth and fifth pictures are of the piles of limbs thet left many years ago that I want to push up and burn. Thanks to everyone for the replies and the photos. James
Has anyone ever put eletric winch on their dozer? I am thinking about building a shelf to go between the uprights of the ROPS on the back of my D20 and mount it there. It would not be for long duration pulls just for when I don't have a enough room to use cable/chain to pull something or I want to use a snatch block to pull something sideways to get it around something that is in the way. Well that and if I manage to high center it. Don't ask. I am thinking about a winch in the 12000lb range. I would be using replacement bolts from the bottom of the ROPS attachment point with some bracing. I want to avoid welding as much as possible so I don't weaken anything. That and if I have to take it off I can do it with a wrench and not a torch. I have seen a few winches for the D20 series but they looked like they were for the track loader and damn if they aren't proud of them as far as cost goes. Any ideas or criticism as long as you use small words and type slowly.
I would definitely mount it down lower, where the winch normally goes. Where you are talking about mounting it, you are talking about putting all that force on the top of your fuel tank and oil tank. that is not machine frame. I think a hard pull would warp something at best.
Nice looking place there, James. Hard to beat the east Texas woodlands. It looks to me like you have a little larger trees than I do. My property was clear-cut about 10-12 years ago, and they really trashed it. It must have been muddy when they did, because there are ditches where the skidders ran back and forth. And like yours, they left piles of tree tops all over the place. I am slowly filling in the ditches and trying to clean up the piles of tree tops. I really wish I had a grapple system for my tractor's front end loader so I could selectively pick up and move the larger stuff. The problem with a dozer is that when you go to pushing stuff into a pile, you can't help but get a lot of dirt too, which doesn't burn real well. One thing to bear in mind when cleaning up with a dozer is that you have to try to keep the blade above ground as much as possible when around your good trees or it will destroy the shallow roots. I've got a landscape rake for my tractor, and if I'm just trying to clean up dead brush and rocks, I'll use it to pull everything away from the good trees, then use the dozer to push the smaller piles into bigger ones for burning. You may be a lot better with the dozer than I am, but I get to watching one thing and before I know it, I've let the blade get too low on one side and I'm ripping out a root on one of my good trees. I really wish I could afford one of those mulching machines that you just drive around, but they are way over my budget. You said something about a trackloader. I always wondered how well they would do in clearing land. I am building several ponds and I needed the good scraping capabilities of a dozer blde, so I didn't even consider a trackloader. Have you seen the place just west of Canton on I-20 called Tractor Ranch? They have a lot of equipment on their lot and you might find just what you are looking for there. I have been contemplating buying a used backhoe and stopped there a couple of times to look around.
Yeah, John, I have to agree with Mitch on the location. The fuel tank and hydraulic tank are just bolted to the main frame and I don't think they would take much pulling before something lets go. If you look back on page 117 at the rear view picture of the D21 there, you see a hitch at bottom center that is bolted on to the main frame. If it were me, I would remove that and bolt on another plate to which my hoist was bolted. If you needed more width, I would think you could also remove the first two bolts farther out on each side there and replace them with longer ones that go through your plate also. That would keep you from having to weld anything and should give you a good solid mount for the winch. I'm not sure what those bolts go into though, so you might want to check the exploded view drawings in the parts manual first to make sure you can remove those bolts temporarily.
I have a D21P-6 Kamatsu dozer and I have mounted a tree grubber on the blade and I have just finished clearing 100 acres of mesquites on my place here in central Texas. Worked the little dozer extremely hard with no problems. I'm amazed at the work these little dozers can do.
Thanks for the reply from both you and mitch504. I don't think I was clear or I am not sure about the mounting point I was talking about. The way I was thinking is at the bottom of the rear ROPS mounting point. I was going to bolt to the bottom of that bracket. It should be mounted to the main frame of the dozer. Sorry I don't have my dozer close to look at so I can't confirm this though. I will check out the exploded views of the rear end of the dozer to see what is on the other side that all of those bolts on the back go to. I may be able to get longer bolts to bolt a plate that covers most of the rear end.
I am rebuilding my D20P-6 motor. I have it all torn down and I have no clue on how to get the sleeves out of it to put the new ones back in. Can someone tell me if their is a tool to do it with or some other way to get them out thank you.
idewitt5134, did you get the sleeves out?
Hey all, just got my little cd5pb running and am starting in on dealing with the rest of the 'deferred maintenance'. I'm wondering if anyone has a number for the hydraulic filter that goes in the tank? it measures about 3.875" od, 1.75" id and 8" long +/- with room to play on all measurments by an eighth inch or so. thanks in advance. jake
Okay,I know I read it somewhere but can't find it.Replaced both clutch packs and brake bands as stated in book.(I think)The d21-p steers very little and it won't roll on a hill out of gear.It will push great! I did adjust the brakes but haven't tried it.(To cold)Where's the adjustment for the clutches? Seems to me the clutches are not releasing. H E L P
There is at least one post somewhere in this topic with pictures explaining how to adjust the steering clutches. I couldn't even begin to guess what page(s) to look at. It has been three years since I adjusted mine and I'm going from memory here, which isn't as sharp as it used to be. But if I remember correctly, you take off the angled panel that is right under the panel you remove to get to the batteries. Here is a picture of the rear of a D20. The battery access panel is the one with Komatsu written on it. You can see the angled panel below it and the four bolts holding it on. Then, I believe there are two other panels you remove, one on each side to gain access to the adjustment bolts. The bolt you turn adjusts the tension on the brake band around the clutches. When you open the covers, you will be looking at the top of the bolt, if I remember correctly. I do remember distinctly taking off the angled panel under the battery access panel, but I just can't remember the rest. I do know you can drive it, get off and make a quick turn of the bolt, then get back on and try it again. It's not a major disassemble to get to the adjustment bolts. Here is the page on the adjustment of the steering brakes. The adjustment bolt is labeled 6 on this diagram and adjustment 6 instructions are below the diagram. I would not suggest you do as instructed. I would turn the bolt about a turn counter-clockwise and try it to see if it improved, then continue adjusting as needed in the same or smaller increments until it's working correctly. I'm pretty sure CCW is loosening and CW is tightening, but I can't swear to it. I hope this helps. The other post(s) on this forum have pictures of the other panels and what the adjustment bolt looks like when you remove the panels. Good luck.
I actually just went through all 119 pages on this forum looking for the adjustment pictures, but to show how bad my memory is, there are none that show the cover plates and the adjustment bolts. There were several pictures of the clutches and brake bands for replacement on pages 100 and 109. I must have seen pictures of the adjustment covers and bolt elsewhere. Anyway, I did find this post on another forum by a guy who has posted a good bit on this one also. This pretty much sums it up and confirms that i was right about the two smaller covers. Next time I have the cover off of mine, I'll take pictures and post here for future reference.
And since the picture size on this forum is limited in size, it may be hard to see the entire adjustment page I posted earlier, so I broke it into two pieces so they will be a bit larger. These should be more readable.
Thanks so much for all the info everybody on the clutch adjustment I'm gonna try it today.This has been an awesome forum with a lot of great info.Finally finishing this winter project. couldn't have done it without ya! (D21-6)
Thanks for all the help on my D21-6 you guys have been a lot of help.I'm gonna try this new info on adjusting the brakes or clutches and see if it helps.
Okay I give it a try and it still has no brakes.I adjusted the brake adjustment all the way down and then backed them off 1 full turn.Everything is new (clutches packs,clutches,brakes,drums)and I'm sure I put them together right.It has to be the linkage.Would everybody agree?Thanks again for all the help. Oh by the way this machine was a basket case when I got it last fall and would not surprise me if someone was adjusting on the linkage!
It could very well be the linkage, but the brake band adjustment still comes into play in the grand scheme of things. I have attached a picture I took of mine when I had the seat out to repair an oil leak in the steering valve area a few months back. I labeled parts of it for the left side only. First of all, I think you need to confirm that when you pull the steering handles back, the plungers are being pushed in. I labeled the left plunger with an A. This plunger actuates the valve that operates the piston that pushes the lever that releases the steering clutch. The adjustment at label D will lengthen or shorten the rod that goes from the front to the back. The brake lever is labeled B. This is the lever that releases the brake band. The adjustment at label C is what I call the differential adjustment in that it adjusts when the brake lever is moved in relation to when the plunger is pushed in. I am also attaching the diagram from the service manual and the adjustment procedure, if you want to go by the book. But I think the adjustment at C, along with the adjustment bolt we talked about in the previous posts are key in getting the brake to engage as soon as the clutches are released. That's all I can tell you. I really haven't touched the linkage on mine other than the bolt for the brake band adjustment discussed in the earlier posts. I come from the school of, if it's working, don't fiddle with it. Good luck with it.
Got it I'm gonna try it this weekend and I'll get back to ya! Thanks again
I adjusted the linkage and still no steering.I'm thinking maybe there's air in the steering cylinders?I'm thinking while I have it apart I would clean (Or replace) the transmission filter I'm sure it hasn't been looked at.Do I clean this or replace it? And is there a bleed screw for the steering cyl.Or do they bleed themselves?I haven't really ran it much since having it all apart maybe 5 mins.
Back them off another 3 turns.
I don't know a thing about the transmission filter. Sorry. When I had the leak I mentioned in a previous post, the clutch oil would slowly leak out until it got so low that the steering clutches wouldn't release. There was not enough oil to actuate the pistons that release the clutches. All I had to do was refill it with oil and the steering worked again just fine. I'm not saying you don't have to bleed anything, as I don't know for sure. But I didn't have to after refilling the clutch oil, and I don't see anything in the dis-assembly/reassembly instructions, or in the maintenance instructions about bleeding anything. Here are some thoughts. If the dozer drives forward and reverse, it is obvious that the clutches are both engaged. Until one of the clutches disengages, you will not turn. Even without a steering brake being engaged, the dozer will turn gradually in the direction of a disengaged clutch, assuming you are on level ground. The brake on that side only increases the turn rate. I'm not sure how you would confirm that you have oil going to the pistons that disengage the clutches. I'm assuming you verified that the plungers are being pushed in when you pull back on the steering handles. As I mentioned earlier, if you do not have enough fluid in the clutch fluid tank, you will never disengage the clutches. The clutch fluid dipstick is the one under the main clutch pedal. Make sure it is at least touching the dipstick, and preferably in the crosshatched area of the dipstick. If that is ok, and the plungers are being depressed, I don't know what to tell you to do next. I will tell you that if you have the brake band too tight, it will try to stop the rotation, while the steering clutch will try to rotate it, causing the engine to bog down. Good luck with it. EDIT: I was just looking at the Operation and Maintenance manual and realized for the first time that the D21 doesn't show a main clutch case and fill tube/dipstick. Now I'm not sure what feeds oil to your steering clutch cylinders. I would guess it comes from the transmission case. And the filler tube/dipstick under the main clutch pedal is for the transmission case on a D21, whereas it is for the clutch case on a D20. I also found the procedure for the transmission strainer. It does say to remove and clean it, but if it is broken or damaged to replace it. Sorry for the confusion.
Finally some warm weather to get out and try my d21p-5
I'm a fairly decent mechanic but have very little experience with Komatsu. I'm working on a D20P for a friend. He's an older guy and not very mechanical. He's developed a bit of an oil leak which dropped the oil level far enough that while working on a bit of a side hill the oil pressure light came on. He didn't really know what it was, thought it was for the alternator and ignored it, kept on working...till there was a sort of bang. He shut it off right away and found that the oil fill cap on the top of the valve cover and dipstick had both been blown out of the engine. He called me and I came up to look at it. Found the dipstick, checked the oil and found it didn't read on the stick. We added oil and cautiously started the engine. It sounded decent but had a light knock, more like a tappet noise rather than a rod knock. The oil light was now out so we knew it had some oil pressure. It was in a bad spot and we knew we'd have to get it down the hill to the house, especially if the engine had to come out. We ran it at just above idle for about 10 minutes while driving it down the hill, the knock would sort of come and go and the oil pressure light stayed off the entire time. A few days later (yesterday, in fact) I had a chance to check it out a bit. I removed the oil pressure sending unit and installed a gauge, then started the engine. It sounded good with only a very slight tapping, more from the top of the engine than the bottom. I didn't really hear the knocking we were hearing the first time. The oil pressure was about 40 psi at cold idle but shot up to about 70 with a few more RPMs. I went over it pretty good with a stethoscope trying to pinpoint the source of the tapping. I adjusted the valves which were all slightly loose but not bad, none were loose enough to account for any real noise. I didn't really expect it to help anyway. On restarting it sounded about the same. After a bit of running, varying the engine speed a bit it finally started to knock again like before. It comes and goes according to engine speed and sounds to me like a wrist pin. I would expect the problem to be bearing damage, not wrist pin. The oil pressure seems very good, after it's warmed up it settles down to about 40 at idle and 50-60 at a bit higher RPM. I suspect I'm just going to have to tear into it. He'd like to run it as-is but I think I've got him discouraged from that. I guess I'll pull the head to start, I presume I can drop the pan with the engine in place? I figure to inspect bearings and crank as well as wrist pins and hoping I can do that with the block still in place, if the crank needs work then obviously the engine will have to come out. Anyone have a good source for engine parts? What about a good used engine if it come to that? Thanks in advance...sorry for the mini-novel!
TigerDan, sounds like your friend dodged a very expensive bullet there, and with the tapping sound still coming from it, the bullet may ricochet and come back anyway. Hopefully it turns out to not be anything serious. If you are looking for parts, I posted back on page 115, message 1712 that we have a full service Komatsu dealer here in our area. Waukesha-Pearce Industries is their name and this branch is located in Kilgore, Texas. The headquarters is in Houston. They are some very nice folks and should be able to supply you with anything you need. Their website is [URL="http://wpi.com"]http://wpi.com [/URL]. Also, there is a guy who posts on here from time to time who carries some parts for these dozers. He goes by the handle of darinray. I don't know if he has any engine parts or not, but you can contact him via his website at http://dmmsales.com . Good luck with it.
Okay RR Rancher this is what I found the adjustment on the clutch yoke that the steering cylinders push against needed adjusted out.Now when you pull the steering levers the clutch disengages. But I have no brakes yet.I think can adjust them also.Thanks again for all the help.Looking forward to trying this machine out. By the way I noticed your machine has rubber tracks.If I switch to Rubber from steel does the sprockets need to be changed or the rollers?Looking forward to any replies!
Any known issues with 90's d41e-6? looking for reasonably nimble farm dozer. found one with 200 hours for $30K.
Dozman, that was not my dozer. It was a picture I found on a web page. I have a D20A-6 with the standard metal, non-pyramid tracks. Ok, so now you have the clutches disengaging. That's great. I think all you need to do now is tighten up the bolts on the steering brake bands. If you tighten one too tight, the brake will be engaged while the clutch is engaged, which is not good for the long term, but won't hurt temporarily. If it is just slightly too tight, you will smell it heating up, and possible smoking, as the band is always rubbing against the clutch pack. Know how I know? If it is way too tight, the engine will bog when you release the main clutch as the steering clutch will be trying to turn the clutch pack with the brake band trying to stop it from turning. It shouldn't take long to get it just right. If it were me, I would tighten the bolt on one side only about a turn at a time and then try turning with the handle all the way back until you get a completely stopped track on that side and a quick turn. You might even then back it off a half turn to see if it still does, just to make sure the band is just tight enough, but not wearing all the time. Then repeat for the other side. I think you are just about to have it steering as it should. Good luck.
I have a D21A-6 for use around the farm. I know the steering topic is very popular on these dozers, but I've run across a problem that I can't quite get my head around. On flat ground or downhill the dozer will not steer right (whether under load or not), the left brake always works fine. When the dozer is going uphill the right brake works perfect. When both levers are pulled back the dozer stops just as it should. No bogging down, grinding or anything like that. What would cause the right brake to work properly only when the dozer is climbing a hill? And to work when stopping the dozer by pulling both levers back but will not work alone to turn the machine on flat ground? I tried to adjust the brake band but the 17mm adjustment bolt is locked up tight on the right side...tried everything. Left side adjustment turns just as it should. Adjusted or not, it works fine going uphill. What am I missing here? I am looking for any suggestions before I bust into the machine this weekend. I appreciate any help.
sounds like your right brake isn't working. when you pull the right handle, it is opening the clutch, and gravity is stopping that side of the tractor when you are climbing a hill. When you pull both, it opens both clutches.
Ahh, didn't think about gravity. That makes sense. Thanks for the reply.
Hello all, I have a d21a-7. When I first start out my right steer is sluggish, and not responsive. The left is fine. The machine is a pilot control for steering and drive. If I run the dozer about 100 yards, and attempt some turns, it will start to react properly, even better in high range. This dozer sat for about a year before I purchased it. All fluids are good, all linkages are lubed and seem fine. Is this some indication of a bigger problem about to start? Any ideas??
Just purchased a D21a yesterday. Less than 800hrs. Serial # is 78529. Any Idea what year it is? It's in excellent shape, with rubber tracks. Hoping to get a lot of use out of it. Thanks, Terry
Dozman, If you replaced the steering clutches in your dozer do you think you got the brake bands hooked good when you put it back together, I had a lot of trouble hooking mine and I had to go back in and hook one of them. Hope everything works out good for you .
Dozman- Did make sure the actuating arm is IN the brake band dog ear... If you don't have that in there you can tighten down all you want and won't have any brake... Hope this helps and I didn't read all of the replies so if this has already been discussed then OOPS.
Tpitt, It appears to be a 1995 model.. Good luck with it...
JRGCUMMINS- IF your right side isn't actuating without adjusting then you have to get that nut to move... IF you break it I have more for you but would recommend penetrating oil on it with a big cheater bar.. I've had them stuck to the point where I put a 4' cheater bar and it backed off with noise.. Either way it has to move or break then you get to tear into the housing to fix it... Good luck..
Dwbinc.. Nah no major trouble just tighten the brake band...Not much because it works after it's warmed but a tweek will do.
Thank you. I can't believe how good of shape it's in.
Thanks everyone for all the help,It was the adjustment on the brakes.Everything is working fine now.This has been a great winter project because of everyone here THANKS AGAIN.By the way my serial number is 67811 what year would that be?
darinray - Thanks for the reply, I finally got it. I let penetrating soak in the threads for a couple of hours then got after it with a cheater bar, broke a ratchet, got a bigger wrench and a longer cheater bar and it finally broke free. I was able to adjust the brake and it is working fine now. I couldn't believe how seized up that thing was!
It looks like he didn't dodge that bullet after all. I dropped the pan yesterday and inspected the bearings, #4 rod bearings are toast, hammered flat. Crank's not looking too good either. I'm amazed it still had any oil pressure at all, and even more so that it was as good as it is. I moved on to working on pulling the engine so the crank can come out and I can have it turned.
Bummer. Oh well, an expensive lesson learned. Good luck with the overhaul.
This just popped up on CraigsList here in east Texas. For that price, joystick control, and just over 2000 hours, it looks like a pretty good deal to me, although closer inspection may prove differently. http://easttexas.craigslist.org/grd/4387472921.html
I would like to install an inline filter in my D21-6 just before the main filter.This would be a diesel inline filter of course but which line is the return and which line is the suction?Serial # 67811
Does anyone know where to get rippers for a Komatsu 21a? Or has anyone built a set? I would like to put some behind mine. If not feasible, I think I might build a root rake.
this is the only outfit ive seen, http://www.attach2.co.nz/
Thanks DwayneC: I'm in contact with them. They are supposed to get back to me.
No Problem, let me know what kinda prices there asking...
Hi there, I just finished installing new steering clutches in my D21-P6. The clutches on the right hand side were pretty rough looking, all rusted up and pitted. The machine steers really good either way now, and when i'm pushing snow, or where I don't have really good traction both tracks will spin. But when I push up against a big tree on dry ground, the right side track doesn't spin? There is no grinding, or strange noises, just won't spin. What could it be other than the clutches?
Crawlake check back through the previous posts with a note pad.There are a lot of tips and great advice I'm sure you'll find the answer.
Thanks for the replies the other day RRRancher and mitch504 about attaching a winch to the back of my D20. To clear up what I was saying this is the type of ROPS system I have. I was planning to attach it from the bottom of the rear ROPS point by bolting on a plate to it. Again any ideas are greatly appriciated. I also am looking with great lust at the ripper attachment above. I don't really need one but I WANT one.
I have read through all 121 pages, and steering clutch replacement has fixed pretty much all issues in regards to track not spinning. Everything in the bevel case seems to be fine, I'm assuming if the problem was gear related I would hear some sort of noises, or grinding? Not sure what could be going on that I loose power to the one side when I get really good traction?
Be sure your clutch adjustment fork is at 121mm to the center of bevel gear?And the transmission screen is clean?Is the brake adjustment right?Those brakes can be trickey to put back togather. Hope this helps its just a few thoughts.
I have given this some thought, crawlake, and I surely don't know the exact answer to your problem, but this is what I'm thinking. As far as I can tell from reading the service manual, I don't see any actual adjustments for the steering clutches themselves. The clutch is normally engaged by the springs inside of it pushing the plates and discs together. It is disengaged by actuating the release yoke. The release yoke is actuated by the steering booster cylinder, which is supplied oil under pressure from the steering control valve when the steering lever is pulled back, pushing the plunger in on the steering control valve assembly. So what I'm wondering is, is it possible that your steering lever linkage is partially pushing in that plunger, even when it is fully forward? I really don't think that is what is happening, but it could, I suppose. If it is not that, I'm wondering if there is something wrong in your steering control valve assembly that is causing it to always be supplying a little oil pressure to the steering booster cylinder, which is almost disengaging the clutch. Not enough to disengage it during normal operation, but enough to disengage it when you are driving against an immovable object. From what I read, when the steering lever is pulled back partially, there is a modulating action taking place within the steering control assembly, which partially releases the clutch. When pulled back all the way, the modulation ceases and there is complete release of the clutch. If there is a problem in your steering control valve assembly, perhaps it is always in a modulating mode and the clutch is never fully engaged. If you have the service manual, pages 21-63 and 21-64 explain this in detail. I have not been inside my steering control valve assembly, and I have no idea how hard it would be to open it and inspect the inside for something like a bad o-ring, broken spring, or stuck spool, etc. I think that would be the last thing I would do, and only if I couldn't find anything else. All of what I'm thinking here is assuming the steering clutches are assembled properly and function as they should when the release yoke is not engaged. You said you replaced the clutches, so you should have a pretty good feeling about that part. If they are working properly, I just tend to think that the release yoke has to be partially engaged enough to partially release the clutch plates when pushing against an immovable object, but not enough to release them under normal loading. I may very well be totally wrong about this, and I will defer to any expert who knows more about this. Hopefully this may help you troubleshoot and find the problem. Best of luck with it.
Thanks for the ideas guys. I actually talked to Darin about the 121mm adjustment, so I'm pretty confident I got that set properly. I did a full service at the same time, fresh oil in bevel case and final drives, cleaned trans screen and replaced oil, replaced hydraulic fluid and filter. I went up a hill and slowly pulled both steering levers, the machine stopped when both levers were halfway and began rolling backward, when I pulled the levers a bit further the machine stopped, I believe I have the brake adjustment right? As for putting the brake bands back together, and getting the linkages hooked up, I did have some problems with that. I already had the clutch case covers on and siliconed down, so I got the brake band linkages hooked up through the plunger hole and adjustment hole with hay wire, long screwdrivers and an extendable magnet. ( Not a mistake I will make again ). RRRancher. Do you think if I got the machine positioned in front of a tree, then took the hydraulic line off of the right hand side plunger and plugged it off. Would I then be able to start the machine and run it up against the tree to see if both tracks would spin? I'm just trying to think of an easy way to test your idea without tearing the clutch covers back off. I'm not sure if unhooking that line and plugging it off would affect the rest of the hydraulic system, just thinking it might rule out any pressure being put on the adjustment fork? Thanks again for the help.
You know, I actually thought about doing that last night when I was writing the last post, but then I remembered that it is not a line that screws into the valve control assembly. The steering boost cylinders have an opening where the line comes in from the block between it and the valve control assembly, and the line just has an o-ring that seats into the opening. There is nothing threaded to screw a plug into. I replaced both of these o-rings this last summer. I don't think there is a way to plug that line easily. I suppose you could remove the steering boost cylinder and then make a machined block that the oil line would plug into to just block it off for testing, but it would have to screw into the clutch compartment cover like the steering boost cylinder does so the pressure wouldn't just blow it off the end of the tube. I am including a parts diagram that shows the valve control assembly, the block with the rigid oil line, and the steering boost cylinder. The valve control assembly is under the TSBO letters of KOMATSUPARTSBOOK.COM. The block and rigid oil line is part number 9, and receives oil under pressure from the valve control assembly via line 13, sealed by o-rings 14 and 15. The rigid oil line on part number 9 is sealed by o-ring part number 10, which is what I replaced on mine last summer. The steering boost cylinder is part number 1. There is no way to see if the steering boost cylinder is being driven by the oil as it is bolted to the top cover of the clutch compartment, which is in the bottom right corner of the diagram. I understand your logic here, and that sounds like a great way to see if the clutch is just slipping on its own, or if the steering boost cylinder is actually partially releasing the clutch. I can't think of an easy way to test it without building a test block as I mentioned above. You can't remove the piston or it would blow oil into your clutch compartment. I suppose you could remove the piston (part number 2) and add a solid plate that would attach next to the gasket (part number 6) and would seal the oil in the steering boost cylinder from getting into the clutch compartment. That actually sounds quite doable, now that I think of it. A thin piece of sheet metal the same size as the gasket (part number 6) but without the large hole in the middle. Even if it leaked a little during testing, it would prove that the steering boost cylinder is or is not causing the clutch to partially release. A little hint about the steering boost cylinders. Bolt them to the clutch compartment cover semi-tight, with the bolt (part number 11 ) loose enough to move block 9 around a bit. Line up the rigid line on block 9 to the steering boost cylinder so it will seal properly, then tighten everything up. There is a good bit of slop to play with. As always, good luck with it, and make sure you let us know what you find.
Hi Red Rock Rancher, I'm away at work for a few more days, so haven't had time to look into my issue. I understand now what you are saying about the o-ring fit on the boost cylinder, that might be a bit tricky to fit up. Do you think it would work if I disconnected, and plugged off the 2 hydraulic hoses running into the main steering valve assembly? (Not sure if this is the correct name). It seems to me there is only the 2 lines that run into the entire assembly, just not sure if unhooking them would have any negative affect on any other part of the machine?
Good theory RRR. Crawlake I am thinking you should be able to disconnect the tube on the cylinder and just let it hang open or covered with something for protection. No fluid other than the initial dribble should come out. If you get continous fluid and you can't hold it back with your thumb then RRR's theory of valve leakage may be right.
crawlake, I don't know about disconnecting and plugging those lines. It may be ok, but I am not a hydraulics expert by any means and I don't know if it would cause problems for the pump or something. Maybe someone else has more education or experience with it. g_man, I do believe you are correct there sir. If you are not pulling on a handle, you should get no fluid from the tubing, as the steering valve assembly should not be trying to actuate the steering boost cylinder's piston. If it does produce oil under pressure, it would seem to me that the problem is in the steering valve assembly. It is going to be interesting to see what you find for sure. Let us know when you get back and have time to check it out. And I forgot to mention in the previous post, if you remove the steering boost cylinder, be prepared to replace the gasket. I pulled both of my boost cylinders and both gaskets ripped as part of it was stuck to the cylinder and part of it was stuck to the cover it mounts to. I made new ones myself with some generic gasket material from an auto parts store, with a light coating of Permatex gasket seal in a tube. It sealed up nicely with no leaks. You may get lucky and not rip it, but it probably wouldn't hurt to hit it with a little Permatex anyway. It's some great stuff in a tube, in my opinion. I've been using it for gaskets since the 70's.
Hello machineman These data also serve to D21A-8?
Crawlake, I had a similar problem,I thought it was the small hydraulic cyl. But it turned out to be the brakes were not put on correctly.You should be able to look in the adjustment hole and see if the linkage is hooked up correctly and through the hyd. cyl. hole.(Not saying it wasn't installed properly just a little bit trickey)I learned this lesson the hard way.If you decide to take the top off here's a little tip the guys at hughes springs,Texas told me.Wrap a large plastic strap around the brake band to hold it while you set the top back on and it will almost go together by itself.And then once the top is back on,take a welding rod heat it red hot and burn the strap off through the small hyd. hole.To bad I didn't know this a week sooner could have saved me a lot of time.Best of luck! Dozman
Hello all . New guy here . I just bought a D20P-6 , and already messed it up . "A little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing". Anyway , it runs fine , but it would not steer to the right . The right lever pulls back almost a foot more than the left lever . I tried to turn the adjusting bolt - it would not budge . I sprayed it with penetrating oil , and left it alone for several days . Then , I remembered that I was supposed to have it in gear to make the adjustment . The bolt now feels broken ... I've ordered manuals . I figure I'll need to do some serious wrench-turning . Any thoughts - like how or where to get a new bolt ? Thanks in advance ... Off to the woodshed ...
Cavalier, not sure what bolt you are talking about, but if you need parts, check message 1804 on page 121. Also check komatsupartsbook.com for an online parts breakdown of your dozer that you can look at until you get your manuals. And you can download your shop manual in PDF format for $8.95 at https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/163959954-download-komatsu-d20-d21a-e-p-pl-pll-s-q-6-6a-bulldozer-service-repair-shop
Thanks RRRancher . Its the right 'band ass'y brake' hardware - I will guess the threaded 'shaft' No.9 (108-33-32270) . Turning 'nut' No. 13 is what did it , it feels real floppy in the hole now , but it won't pull out . It didn't take a lot of force to do it . I won't know for sure until I dissemble it ... I just got the battery situation straight . I used 2 OPTIMA 34Ns . It had 2 underpowered , fried auto batteries in it - now it spins like a top . Glow-plug indicator doesn't work , though ... Yesterday , I rebuilt the blade tilting-cylinder , the seal was toast . The tip from the gentleman in Tennessee , about peening the cylinder , was a major help . Incidentally , a claw-hammer will work ...
The manuals arrived ... I dissembled the right brake . Nothing broken , I guess the brake-adjusting bolt was bottomed out - no adjustment left . Torqueing it unhooked the front-end from the brake-band . I guess I need a steering-brake band to correct it ... It took a lot to free the adjusting nut . I had to use heat , and the hammer-to-the-cylinder trick worked again , while using big wrenches . Funny , it wasn't rusty , maybe it was from prior owners attempting to adjust it , myself included ... I'm going to guess that the previous owner drove around with the parking brake set , causing the pads to wear out a great deal faster than the left set ...
I have a D21A-6 SR # 65589. My deceased brother purchased it at auction about 10 years ago. When it was used very little and parked in the shed it was reported to have some complications with not releasing the drive clutch. I purchased it 3 months ago, part of the paint is still on the blade it only has 515 hours on it. I have it running and it goes forward and back fine however it will not steer. when i pull right steering levers very hard it will steer slightly as it begins to stall the engine. When i pull the left one it just stalls the engine. Someone has adjusted the control rods some the jam nut was loose. i have purchased a 3000 psi pressure gauge and started assembling a gauge to check the pressures. As i read some of the other post it now sounds as if i need to check filter first not sure. I removed the radiator, had a small leak repaired and re installed it. I have both full service manuals #1 & #2 So i am a little mechanically inclined but for sure don't want to do more than i need to. I would like a knowledgeable response that would suggest a step by step check list to follow to determine my problem and a list of oils filter and lubes to perform before i start using this basically new machine. thanks in advance, leftydave9449. PS I prefer em response [email protected] if this is permissible on this sight.
Lefty, these little dozers don't actually have main drive clutches, the D20 does but not the D21. They use dry steering clutches and are real bad about rusting and sticking if they sit more than a month or two. The best thing to try is holding the steering back till just before the brakes come on, and bump into things. If your luck is real good they will break free, if not the steering clutches will need to come out.
Lefty, since you said it appears that someone adjusted the control linkage, I would say it is possible that you could also just have another problem. Mitch is right in that these dry clutches do tend to rust the clutch plates together if they sit up for a while, so it could very well be that. But your symptoms also sound like it could possibly be a bad adjustment. Please read post 1780 and others on page 119, in which I posted some pictures related to these adjustments. Basically, the way it is supposed to work is when you pull back slightly on the steering handle, a plunger on the steering control valve assembly is the first thing that is actuated. When it is pushed in, fluid is routed to the steering booster cylinder, which drives it forward and actuates the clutch release, which causes the drive on that side to quit driving the sprocket on that track. It is basically free-wheeling at this time and the drive on the other side will gradually turn the dozer in the direction of the handle that was pulled. When you pull back harder on the handle, it actuates the steering brake on that side, which stops the sprocket from turning at all, and the dozer will turn sharply in that direction due to the other track being the only one moving. If the linkage is out of adjustment, what can happen is that the brake is actuated before the plunger is pushed in to release the clutch. So you have the clutch engaged, trying to drive the sprocket, and the brake engaged trying to stop the clutch from turning the sprocket. This causes the engine to want to stall as it hasn't enough power to override the brake, and it just bogs down. It is pretty hard to troubleshoot this without pulling the seat so you can see the plunger and the brake lever and make sure they are being actuated in the right order. If I were you, I would do as Mitch suggested first, and try to break the plates loose. If that doesn't do it, I would pull the seat and take a look. And keep in mind that just because the plunger is pushed in doesn't mean that the valve is working and actuating the booster cylinder. There could be a problem in the steering valve control assembly or booster cylinder, although I think these are rare. I do know for a fact that if you are really low on fluid in the main clutch compartment, which is where they get their fluid, the steering valves will have nothing to send to the booster cylinders, and they will not actuate at all, resulting in the clutch engaged and the brake engaged when the handle is pulled back hard, and the engine will bog. I had this happen several times when I had a bad oil leak and it ran low on main clutch fluid. Adding oil immediately made it start steering perfectly again. I don't think this is your problem though because you said one side steers ok, but the other causes the engine bog. I was getting it on either side when the fluid was low. I wish you luck with it, and please let us know what you find. The more solutions we hear about here, the more we all learn.
Cav, I for sure don't have a lot of experience on the steering clutch/brake assembly as I have never had to pull one and work on it. But I have to wonder if the adjustment bolt will actually run out of threads for adjustment, even with a worn brake band. Are you sure it was assembled correctly so that the brake band was attached properly and the adjustment bolt was actually tightening it around the clutch? I have to wonder if it was actually adjusting it, or if it was just turning until it bottomed out. And your thinking that the previous owner may have run it with the parking brake on makes me wonder two things. Is this possible to do? I have never used my parking brake, so I really don't know, but if it is engaged, will the dozer even move at all? And if it will, and your previous owner did this, wouldn't both brake bands be worn the same, or close to the same? I'm not saying you're wrong here, by any means. I'm just thinking out loud. I sure hope you get it running right soon, my friend. You have certainly had your share of problems. When it is all working correctly, it is such a nice feeling. I took mine out for a spin last weekend for the first time in over a month, and had a blast just moving a pile of dirt over about 30 feet or so. Sure felt good. Please reply when you get it going. I'm really curious to know what you find.
I'm going to be putting the crankshaft back into my friend's D20P as soon as I get it back from the crank grinder. He has the shop manual but the entire chapter on the engine is missing...does anyone know the torque specs for the mains and rods?
d21a-6 clutches frozen Thanks mitch I checked the pressure on the the steering valves and got apx. 250 lbs. I am in the process of pulling the clutches. Its is my intention to replace clutches and break ban as well. ii want to know this is in good repair and i will drive the machine a little ever two week to keep surfaces in good condition. Do you recoment this proceedure sence the machine has 514 hours on it ? Thanks dave
RRR , I just received a new brake from Kent Baugh yesterday (Thanks Kent !) . I'm waiting for the rain to stop , to get started ... The brake release on my D-20 is really tricky to release . I had the notion that the parking brake was the right brake - I could be wrong . The big difference in the amount of travel in the steering levers , and the excessive wear on the right pads , led me to that conclusion . There was also 'pitting' on the steering clutch casing , where the brake is applied . On the other hand , previous owners may have turned to the right , more than to the left ... On another note , is it practical to change the blade-control levers to a single joystick ? My valve-body leaks , so I'll be addressing that eventually ...
RRR , the rain stopped long enough for me to tear into it , after pressure-washing all of the years of baked-on grease , which I should have done when I first checked it out ... Your recent posts about steering opened my eyes a little bit more ... The brake is not really that worn , although I think the linkage is installed properly . I unhooked the springs and spun it around -- it is evenly-worn , so I plan to leave it alone , and not pull the steering clutch ... There is fluid in the bottom . I thought it was water last week , it is oil . The main-clutch was low on oil , which you mentioned is used for the steering-pistons . The left side is dry . I think the excessive travel in the right lever is because the O-ring inside the steering is worn , allowing the fluid to pass into the chassis without applying enough pressure to release the steering clutch . The O-ring is intact , doesn't have noticeable flat spots , but it seems too loose on the cylinder . More later ...
The O-ring appears to have been the main issue ... The previous owner claimed that he had owned the unit around 15 years , and had just installed new steering-clutches - all it needed was 'a little adjustment' . Google revealed that he had purchased it at a local auction 2 years ago , and put 500 hours on it . I bought it , delivered , for what he had paid for it ... Anyway , NAPA had a thermostat-housing O-ring that was the same diameter , but slightly thicker . I had to use a vise to seat the piston , hopefully , its not mangled ... While I wasn't 100% sure that the brake assembly was properly installed , I am now , thanks to Dozman's idea . I did that before bolting down the housing ... The right-lever still pulls out further than the left . I'll sleep on it tonight , and try some more adjusting before I close up the floor . The big thing is that the steering works , and I didn't need to remove the steering clutch . I'll save the new brake for next time . Thanks all - its margarita time ...
TigerDan, check post number 1826 where I linked a place you can pay for and download the manual in PDF format for $8.95. That is a heck of a price, if you ask me. The pages are done very well. The pictures leave a lot to be desired for details, but they were the same way in an original shop manual I looked at when I bought my dozer. It seems they didn't do a great job of copying photos they took when they published the manual, so I don't think you can get any better than the PDF version. I have a hardcopy of a manual, and I also bought the PDF version. I only use the PDF version now, as it is better quality than the copy of the original manual I have. Cav, you may be right on the parking brake. I really don't know, but it seems strange to me that they would design it to only lock one steering brake. But if it works, it works. I'm not going to try to second-guess the Japanese engineers that designed these dozers. Simplicity seems to be commonplace with them, in my opinion. Glad you are getting close to putting it to work for you. I believe the margaritas are in order, for sure. Good luck on yours, Lefty, and let us know what you find.
Was in contact with two companies. One was far too expensive. $6870 shipped to San Francisco. The one in the picture not so bad, but when I emailed them again I never heard back. In the process of building my own. Will make templates in case I want TO BUILD SOME MORE.
It would be interesting to know how they do the hydraulic part .
I was going to use a diverter valve off my blade angle lever. It's a work in progress. lol
More weirdness ... After pressure-washing my dozer under the rear-deck , today I cleaned under the main floorboards . It might be advisable if you have not done this . There were oily rags ( possible fire hazard ) , and clumps of oil-caked dirt under the transmission and clutch , as well as drink cans and food wrappers . I finally had to pull the inspection plate to wash everything out ... The little doors for the idler-wheels were in bad shape . The previous owner had let dirt cake up on them , on both sides , causing lots of rust spots . I finally had to unbolt the housings to expose the springs , to get all of the dirt blasted out . As I lifted the cover off , a lizard leaped out . Not a local lizard , but a GECKO . No , it didn't drive a little car or try to sell me insurance , but it stared at me with tiny cat-eyes , then its spotted body went deeper into the dozer before I could grab it . I can't help but wonder how long it has lived in there , especially without getting crushed . I guess it sleeps by day , and comes out at night to hunt . So , what's in your dozer ?
I evened-out the steering levers today . The linkage looks 'balanced' - each side seems adjusted the same . After thinking about things , I pulled off both brake-adjusting caps . I bottomed them out the same , then backed each one out 4 turns (the left had fewer turns than the right side) . Voila' - they are now equal ... I pushed some dirt around today , and the non-existent right-steering seems fine now .
Okay, did that. It turned out to be exactly the same manual I already have, with the same missing info. There is an engine section but the info in it is limited to removing and replacing the engine, removing the cylinder head and other external engine components...nothing on the bottom end at all, no torque settings and no cam timing info, so I still need this info if anyone has it available. Mostly the torque specs, I paid attention to the timing marks and such when I tore it down. The crank came back from the grinder in Sacramento yesterday. They had to weld up the crank and nitride and grind it to the tune of 500 bucks. And they couldn't find any bearings for it so I've got inquiries in to Kent Baugh and WPI, hope something pans out there.
TigerDan, they also have an engine manual in PDF format on the same website. I apologize for not checking the shop manual engine section, but I have never been in that section on mine before and didn't realize it was pretty basic in content. I downloaded the engine manual for mine and it has the complete disassembly/assembly instructions, with torque values and all. I'm not sure which exact engine you have there, but if you don't want to download the manual, and mine covers the engine you are working on, I'll be glad to supply you with screen shots of mine. This manual I downloaded covers the 3D95S-W-1, 4D95S-1, 4D95L and the 6D95L series engines. Cav, that is great news. Glad to hear you got it all adjusted out properly and can now move dirt like a boss. Assuming you use it regularly, I am going to guess that you will have very little, if any problems with the steering again for a long time. Mine has been doing just fine since I last adjusted it back in 2010. Love the lizard story. There are plenty of hiding places for sure.
I did download the PDF version of the manual. I'll check and see if I can find the engine manual. The engine I'm working on is the 4D95S-W-1. I can PM you my email address and maybe you could email the relevant sections to me? I'd really appreciate that. I just got a response back from Kent Baugh. They won't sell me the bearings only, I have to buy the complete engine overhaul kit for $900 which includes bearings, gasket sets, liners, pistons and rings. Not looking to do a complete overhaul of this engine but if that's the only way I can get the parts, I may as well. Hopefully the news from WPI will be better, if not, then the search for bearings continues...
This should be the manual you need. Twenty bucks, but it probably has everything you need. I don't know if the specs in my manual would be correct for your engine. https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/148156606-komatsu-4d95l-6d95l-3d95s-4d95s-s4d95l-s6d95l
I have a d21p i pulled hydraulic pump off trans to replace leaking seal around the shaft and when i mounted it back on the transmission will not engage when put into gear forwards or reverse. Checked fluids and valves with plenty of pressure and checked screen in bottom of the pan
Instead of tapping into the hydraulics , has anybody tried using an electric-actuator to power a 3-point hitch ? I've seen them rated up to 1000 lbs. , up to 24" travel , 12- and 24-volts . It would be used for a ripper or box-blade ... I guess a PTO would be a lot more difficult to engineer . I have a 3-point backhoe attachment that I'd like to hang on my D-20 P . Unfortunately , its not the self-powered model ...
Lcumbestj, I have no idea what may be wrong on yours. Definitely not anything I have ever messed with. Cav, there was a lot of discussion on rear mounting stuff, PTO drive, etc way back in some earlier posts, but I don't remember the details. I do know that one guy successfully tied into the hydraulics and mounted a cylinder behind his cab for something. He gave some good info on the control needed and the tie in. Just don't have time to go find it right now.
Hello RRR . Yes , I saw the earlier stuff . I was looking at the electric-actuator as an economic 'plug and play' alternative to messing with the hydraulic-system ... I never saw an answer to the PTO problem ...
Oh yeah, if I just needed to raise or lower something on the back of the dozer, I would definitely go with the electric approach too. Much easier to tie into the batteries than the hydraulics. Let us know what you find, if you come up with something. I have thought about building myself a ripper of sorts as I have lots of iron ore just beneath the surface that the blade doesn't want to dig into. I too thought about an electric lift for it, but that will have to come after I get my house built and moved out to the property. Right now, it's just the weekends out there, and there is way too much to do just to keep up. Will be nice to have every evening to do things also.
I found this link as a source : http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical/Linear-Actuators/DC-Linear-Actuators/?page_no=2 Tractor Supply and Northern Tool handle hydraulic-cylinders and smaller actuators . I'm sure there are other sources for both items . Tractor Supply also has lift-arms and associated hardware , as does Agri-Supply , but I think I'll have to fab the dozer rear-mounts . I'll use the existing threaded holes , which will save a lot of work . The pics from the N.Z. company , featuring the add-on ripper , are a help ... I already have a 5' box-blade that I'm planning to mount , for starters . I have a small Yanmar for the backhoe , but without a front-end loader on it , its not real stable . I've considered mounting a horizontal-shaft gas-motor to power the backhoe when mounted on my D-20 , as I don't see an easy way to do a PTO . Some are sold , manufactured that way ... I'm wondering how well replacement box-blade rippers would hold up , if used to fabricate a root-rake for the blade ? I'm thinking about hanging a detachable 4" or 6" tubing with slots milled through it . Most rippers have 3 or 4 adjustment holes in them , so they could be adjustable . Soil here is thin , with yellow clay beneath - no rocks , and most of the big trees are gone . I guess it could be dragged , with modification . The rippers could be easily changed if damaged .
I built a brush rake (root rake) for my D-21...if I can find the pics, I'll throw them on here. To many teeth for a ripper (of sorts) but, works well for brush. Pinned at the top and free at the bottom, needs to be to get off the pile!!
I want, I want, that would make a complete package for these little sh*ts and...help with the balance too!!!
Good job - looks like what they call a "Deluxe Model" here ... There's a few companies that offer them custom-made . The rippers are 12" apart , but some offer them spaced at 6" . Maybe it depends on the soil type ?
Not sure if this is the correct way to ask a question on this Komatsu thread but, here it goes...I now have a D-21A-7. It has/had rubber tracks and they went to ****. I'm looking for rails and pads now but, hard to find in Thailand. I took the tracks off and noticed some slop in the front idlers. I've got them separated from the yokes and one on the bench. I got the end caps off and was lost. I had a guy tell me to take out the nuts on top (one on each side) and drive that pin out (top to bottom). Can I say "NO WAY"? I've pounded the **** out of em and thought I would be smart and leave the nuts on at the end of the pin. Holy ****!!!! I even heated up around the outside, had oil soak over night...it won't budge. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!!!!
Needed to be sure before I commented but, went to the tree farm and yepper, my shanks are 30cm (12") center to center. I need to build another one with like 3 shanks and call it a ripper...bare backed Cats suck!!!!!!
If lifting-forks were fabricated for a grading-type blade , how much weight could a D20 lift ? Has anybody tried this ?
I've thought about that too. My issues were: 1) you can't pick very high. 2) once you get it up the forks won't be level. If a person wanted to pick something (say a pallet) carry it to another location and set it down...I'd guess, the weight of the Cat, most of which will depend on "how far out is the load" leverage in this case would be your enemy. What about the same concept and hang a short set of "gin poles" with a come-a-long, chain hoist (of sorts)? Now you have some stroke!!!!
Cav, thanks for the info on the actuators. I didn't know those things were so expensive. They are proud of them. And I would be careful mounting a box blade behind the dozer. I don't know if it can handle the added stress that the dozer can apply to it if it gets hung on something solid. I broke the arm that attaches my three point to the box blade with my tractor just from pushing and pulling repetitively. That was before I had a welding setup so I took it to a welder near here and he welded it back together and added another piece beside it that doubled the thickness of the arms. I think I would rip the box off the arms before it will ever break again. I used the blade on my dozer to pull a concreted 2-3/8 inch post out of the ground that was about 18 inches deep in hard clay. I've also pulled up T-posts with it that I couldn't even rock loose by hand. It seems to have quite a bit of lifting force. I have to wonder if forks would do much good on the blade for exactly the same reasons as cattracks said. The angle would be quite different from full up to full down, and these dozers already seem a bit front-heavy to me. Too bad it's not an 8-way blade on them. Then you could angle it up or down. On the rippers, I have thought about building a couple of attachments that somehow attach to the blade and protrude below it about 6 or 8 inches to be used as rippers in the forward direction only. I've not come up with a design yet, as I have been to busy to worry about it now, but I think it can be done fairly easily. They would have to be removed, or somehow raised to do normal blade work, but if you just wanted to rip a bunch at one time, they should do the trick.
backup rippers something like this RRRancher? http://www.vailproducts.com/backup_rippers.htm
Oh wow. What a great idea. You would have to tie them up somehow to allow you to use the blade for smoothing in reverse. But that is a minor thing. I just have to wonder if the metal pieces that the blade is welded to (see picture) would be strong enough to mount them to. Not sure how much they could take. Will have to think about this when the time comes. Thanks a lot, DwayneC.
I acquired a root-rake . It has 10 - 3/4" x 17" tines . I chained it to the blade with come-alongs , just to try it out ... The soil here is sandy clay , clear of rocks and roots . If I try to push the rake through more than around 4" of depth , it will just spin the rubber tracks . Too much friction , I guess ... I think you could add another cylinder , if you want to tilt the blade . Mine has a link-bar at the top of the blade , that could be swapped for a cylinder . Tapping into the hydraulics and adding another lever could be troublesome , but I've seen images of D20/21's that have it . The other pivot points have rubber bushings , I guess that could allow the tilt changes .
Ten tines seems like a lot for these little dozers. I was thinking of only having a couple to just bust up some iron ore slabs into something I can get the blade under and break up further with it. You could also bust up clay with them too. It would just take a few more passes. But that's not a problem for me. I've found that patience is almost mandatory with this series dozer, as it just doesn't have the power to plow through stuff quickly. I'm not sure that you could tilt the blade up or down, Cav. I think if you replaced the rod labeled 1 with a cylinder, it would stress the two couplings labeled 2 in the picture below. And like you said, adding another cylinder and hoses and valves and lever would be a major job. Maybe a cylinder that tilts the forks alone might be doable, but then you still need all the rigging to make it work. If you have a front end loader on your tractor, there are fork attachments for them that are out there, although I have no idea if they are any good or not. I found a deal some guy made that I want to do on my FEL to pick up limbs and trash without all the dirt. I have pictures somewhere, if I can find them. It was the best design I have seen yet. It had a V-shaped piece that slips over and under the blade of the loader, then two flat bars attached to that that go under the bucket for support. From those bars there were pieces of chain welded on that went up behind the bucket and were welded onto the end of a threaded rod. There was a plate welded onto the back of the bucket with another piece welded to it that the threaded rod went through, with a nut on each side so the threaded rod could be adjusted to take up the slack in the chain and keep the V-shaped piece pulled tight over the blade so it couldn't be pulled off. The V-shaped piece had several tines welded to it that stick straight out in front of the bucket. They can be slid under trash or limbs to pick them up without the dirt, then dumped where needed. To remove it, you just remove the top nut from each side and slide the threaded bolt out and the V-shaped piece would come off the FEL blade. I really like this design because no holes are needed in the bucket itself, and the pieces welded to the back of the bucket were large enough to not put a lot of stress on the bucket's sheet metal. I would not use it to pick up several hundred pounds at a time, but it looked like it would be very handy to clean up messes, which I have many of on my 50 acre tree farm that was clear cut several years ago. Wow, I got a bit off the subject of this forum there. Sorry. I'll try to find the pictures and post them though.
Well, I was a little off on my description. I must have been thinking about something else I've seen and got it mixed up with this. First, it's not really a V-shape, but it does go above and below the blade, and the full length of it, so it doesn't apply all the pressure at one or two points like those clamp on kind. And the tines all go under the bucket for support. And there is no plate on the back of the bucket, although that would probably add more strength to it. And last, there is only one nut on each bolt, although I would probably have another one below the bracket that is set so you know when you have it tightened just enough. Anyway, here are the two pictures. And I promise, no more tractor-related posts in this topic.
Wow, what a novel idea. I wonder how much stuff I could hook because I didn't raise the blade high enough when backing up. lol That and...I'd hate for somebody to think I was back dragging to get it smooth.
I wish I had your rails and pads!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! RR, do you have any guides (inner and outer)to keep the rails in line with the roller and sprocket? Not really needed unless you're on a side hill, cutting a ditch or cleaning up a side slope.
Finally got some work done in the yard, fell some trees and dug up the roots, next is the mound the dozer is sitting on, take down the 5 large poplar trees and move all the material to elsewhere in the yard... sure wish i had a root rake and a ripper!
Nice dozer .
thanks, its a D21p-5 that i just put new 12" pads on a few weeks ago, best part about it is the 4" chrome stack i put on!
May I ask...? The cost of rails and pads or, did you just replace the pads? I worry a bit about those hoses on the outside of the push-tubes...
yeah the hoses, i need to fix that... i paid just over 900 for the pads then another 250 i think for the bolts and nuts, i got them for cost when i was working for a komatsu dealer...
I posted a pic of a brush rake that I built last year. Take a look and give me your 2 cents!!!
And that's BC prices? Sounds like a smokin deal to me!! Well done. I was quoted a 4,000+ for rails and pads out of a company in Spokane (just a bit south of you). I'm still trying to find a set of Reman or even used with pins turned for mine. especially in the brush it wouldn't take much to jill-poke one of those lines. Like the cage dude and yes Sir...love the stack!!!!
Nice looking dozer, DwayneC. I like the cab cover, and the chrome stack for sure. And I agree about the hose sticking out there. Get a little too close to a limb or something and next thing you know, you'll be spraying oil all over the place. Know how I know? Cattracks, I'm not sure exactly what you're asking about. I'm not very educated on the tracks on these things. Mine were all replaced before it left Japan and I haven't had to do anything other than adjust the slack a couple of times. Here are some better pictures of them that may answer your question.
You dawg... You have the shorter ones front and rear...Just out from your sprocket and same, same out from the roller. Sweet. My book shows that type and the full-length ones. I couldn't find any here so, yep, I built mine. Problem, problem, I don't think I was supposed to use them with rubber tracks and started popping drive links off those weathered tracks like bubble wrap. )*(&^^%*^. I wanted REAL steel tracks anyway but, the timing wasn't good. If you get on a side hill i.e. cutting a ditch or a back slope, they have a tendency to **** out and roll off the sprocket or roller. It's a bitch getting rubber tracks back on!!! Ask me how I know??? Could you...would you, measure up from the inside of the pad (on the ground) to the bottom of your alignment brackets? Sorry, I don't know the technical term for that part!!! Good looking Cat for sure!!!
Is the measurement you are wanting?
Yes Sir, After thinking about it it's not as critical as I first thought because my cross links are embedded into the track itself however, I'd love to now as, I'm seeking (and will procure) a set of real rails and shoes. Thanks for your time Mrrrrrancher. I don't have a hole threaded in the back of the rail like yours...I wonder if that was an extra, Hmmm Thanks again Sir!!!
Glad to help any way I can, cattracks. I will be out there tomorrow and, if I have the time, and can remember, I will take some better pictures of the tracks and post them for you. These were taken from several feet away from the dozer and the zooming effect from the cropping made them a bit fuzzy. I'll get some good close-ups.
You Sir are....A man among men!!!! Thanks, big time Ya know...approx 1983 we were like neighbours. I lived in Palestine for just about a year and a half. Worked for BJ Hughes, Harris Paving and a small contractor in the town just north (????) Lang and Mitchell. Moved there from Alaska and my name was "Damned Yank" Could it be Elkhart, hell I don't remember but, used to cement oil wells in your neck of the Piney woods!!
Above Palestine is Montalba, Frankston, and Athens. It's pretty country here, in my opinion. Alaska is much better looking for sure, but a heck of a lot colder, which I cannot handle. I'll take the 105 degree Summer days over freezing weather any day. I moved here in 2005. Was stuck in Shreveport, LA for the entire 23 years of my career with General Electric. As soon as I quit that job, I started looking for a job over here to get out of that city and back to God's country. We have lived in the same home in Longview since we moved here, but bought 69 acres of rolling hills, East Texas countryside down close to Henderson, and that is where we will soon start building our retirement home. Our shop has been up since December 2012, and we just finished building a small apartment in the back of it so we can live there while our house is built. We have been staying in the apartment over the weekends, but should move to it full time in July and put the house on the market. I got some really good pictures of the tracks on the dozer for you that I took after cleaning it. I'll post them below and also add a picture of the first pond I'm building. Most of it was done with the little Komatsu, but my neighbor deepened the middle of it with a trackhoe for me. I still have a bit of dirt to add on the dam, but that will come later. There is lots of red dirt around it right now, as I am still grading and such, but hopefully the grass with take over after I am done. If you need any other views of the dozer, just holler.
Sweet pics and...I like the pond!! Did you happen to get a measurement? Frankston is the one, couldn't remember, been too long. Perfect, you're doin it right imho. Shop up apartment inside to hang until the house is built...only way to fly. I'm going to assume that the pond is stocked?? I built one here out at the tree farm but, I can't keep the locals out of it....fish stealin little ****s that they are. ergh Sure wish I had those rails and single grouser pads.
Thanks Cat, and dang it, no, I forgot to make the measurements. I will be back out there Wednesday and will do my best to remember to do it. I had a lot on my mind this weekend as we were working on sewer line and field line ditches with my neighbor and his backhoe. The pond is not stocked yet as it still gets pretty muddy after a heavy rain with all that red dirt that the water runs through on the way to it. I'm trying to get grass growing in places where I'm done, but I still have another foot of dam to add and we're planning on digging out a bit more of it in one corner and making a shallow area for the fish to breed in with some gravel on top of the dirt. I have plans for another pond below this one that will be about an acre. That one will be the main fish pond. But that is a project a year or two down the line. I doubt I will have any problems with people fishing in either pond as they are well off the beaten path. It's about a quarter mile from the farm to market road to the house and pond areas with a gate on the way.
Not a problem, whenever it fits or...you think of it!! My parts did come in for the rollers, now I just need to get them shipped to me. I will continue my search for those rails and pads.
Ok, I got the measurements you needed. Here are four pictures with the tape showing the height above the tracks. The first two are of the front guide, or whatever it is called, and the last two are of the rear guide. I hope this is what you need. If not, let me know. I will be out here for another day or two and can get more measurements or pictures, if needed.
Is there a reason for not filling the rollers with grease ?
Hey guys..I just bought a kamotsu d20p. It's a 97 model and I'm having trouble with my left break hanging in reverse. I've tried adjusting the breaks that didn't help me any. It's working normally while turning tracking forward. Any info on this would be very helpfull.
Hey guys..I just bought a kamotsu d20p. It's a 97 model and I'm having trouble with my left break hanging in reverse. I've tried adjusting the breaks that didn't help me any. It's working normally while turning tracking forward. Any info on this would be very helpfull.
You da man. Thanks BIG TIME for the pics Red Rock!!!
Of which rollers do you speak?? The front idler rollers have oil in them!!
You are welcome cat. Cav, there is no grease fitting on my rollers with which to grease them. I seem to remember reading something way back in the early posts of this forum that said some of the rollers are sealed and never need greasing, but I may be wrong about that. My memory slips at times. Hayes, I have never heard of that symptom with the brakes before. Do you mean to say that when you are in reverse and you apply the left brake, it will not release until you go forward again? If so, I'm wondering if the steering clutch on that side was installed correctly. I can imagine that it could have something not right that causes it to bind in reverse so that it will not free up until the steering clutch is turning the other way. Or, I guess it could possibly be something hanging in the linkage between the steering handle and the brake actuator. Have you pulled the seat and floor plates to take a look at the linkage? I have heard of people finding all kinds of things down in there that don't belong. I'm just throwing out ideas here. I really don't know what could do that. Good luck with it. Maybe someone more knowledgeable will chime in here.
There are bolts that you remove to add oil . I was wondering why grease couldn't be used , like spindles on a trailer . I could drill and tap the bolts for zerk fittings , or use adapters. ... Maybe the zerks would get knocked off ?
Carrier rollers and bottom rollers are sealed units (to the best of my knowledge) are you having problems with them or...is this a PM deal?
No problems - just an attempt at preventive maintenance ... For example , the dozers are rated for 10-wt. oil for the hydraulic system , yet pros in the industry suggest using hydraulic-fluid . It just seems more practical to shoot some grease into the rollers whenever greasing other dozer fittings , like 'bearing-buddies ' on a fishing boat trailer .
Thanks cat. I have checked all the linkages. Didn't see anything wrong. And it happens as soon as u apply the left break in reverse. It will unstick if u apply the clutch and let off. Sometimes it does not free up antill u go forward. It could be something installed wrong. I don't really know any history on the machine. Thank u for the help.
Well I think I have found the problem. Got a guy to come check it out. And he made a few calls to a komatsu mech. And the outcome seems to be the left steering clutches are completly shot. So I will be having to order parts soon. Any suggestion on where to order from and about what I'll be looking to spend would be helpfull. Thanks
New to the forum, I have a buddy who owns a Komatsu P21D and rats seem to have eaten all of the wires and pretty much anything that's chewable. Any chance one of you gents have a wiring schematic for this bad boy? Any help would be appreciated for my friend is an older guy who is about to give up on his machine.
What is the dash number (-5,-6,-7, etc) after the model (which is probably D21p)? I have the diagram for a -6 machine. The -6 is a very simple electrical system. If you don't see a dash number, what is the serial number?
Sorry to hijack. I've been looking over this thread for quite some time trying to resolve the issues on my little dozer. I have a -6 model and could desperately use that wiring diagram! It was rigged up with a two wire starting system (as in touch two wires together to start) when I got it. The alternator was bypassed as well for some reason. I plan to do a write up of all the stuff I've been doing to the dozer here soon. Mitch if you could email me that wiring diagram that would be awesome! [email protected] Thanks, Justin
email sent, let me know if you can't read it Good luck
Hayes, there is a guy who posts on here at times. His name is darinray, if I remember correctly, and he sells parts for steering clutches, and maybe completely rebuilt units also. I'm not sure. You would have to ask him. Look back a few pages for some of his posts and you can find his contact info. I think he has the best prices around from what I've heard. Edit: Here, I found his website link. http://www.dmmsales.com Bezarker and wagon89, in case you need more than just the electrical schematic, if you look back a few pages I posted a link to a place online where you can order and download the entire shop manual for these dozers in PDF format for a small fee. They are as good a quality as you can get. The original shop manual has crappy pictures itself, so the PDF format is not the problem. In the electrical section of the manual, at least for the model I have, the D20A-6, there is only one page and it is the schematic.
Thanks Mitch! That will help a ton.
RRRancher, I have a manual that I downloaded for about ten bucks but it is for a d20/21a -5. I figured it would be close enough but there is no electrical section in there at all. And there's a few things that look different than what my Dozer looks like. May have to go back and find that link and order the correct manual. Thanks!
Thank you Mitch, I had to ask him for the owners manual which he brought in this morning. It's a D21P-6 and it's been sitting for about 3 and 1/2 years now. He's an older dude and a bunch of us around the office really want to help him. Whatever you can do sure will be appreciated.
I tired ordering the service manual and I keep getting this message: Looks like a double submit or you have reloaded the page on error. Please go back and start over... I'm gonna try it again later on, just hope I haven't purchased 4 downloads... never mind it seems I forgot how to use the interwebs. I got the manual and we're planning on going down to his property in the very near future. Thanks for the link RRRancher.
Glad I could help, Bezarker. I just wish the electrical section had a bit more substance to it than just a schematic. It took me a while to decipher some of it and I worked on electronics for almost 30 years. If you have any difficulty with it, I might be able to help you somewhat. It is, indeed, a very simple electrical system. The Japanese have a knack for removing anything excessive and simplifying things to extremes. I worked on CAT scanners for General Electric in the 70's, 80's and 90's, and later in that period of time we bought a Japanese company that also made CAT scanners. When I went to school on them, I was amazed at how they did the same things we did on the GE-engineered scanners with a lot less of everything. We sold them as a cheaper model then the ones we made in the states, and they worked as well as ours, in my opinion. It was a real eye-opener for me. I guess that is why I love these little dozers so much. Simplicity that does the job.
Just saw this on Craig's List for this area in case any of you need parts. http://easttexas.craigslist.org/hvo/4528274630.html
I need a blow up of parts for the fuel pump on my D20-a. I may have lost something the last time I had it apart. I can run for a while then it looses power and dies with black smoke....sometimes wait a few days and it starts and runs fine for awhile then under load it starts missing and looses power..then dies.
Hey guys I am new to the forum and joined because I am thinking of getting a Volvo L20 loader I jumped in because I have owned a D 21 for some 15 years now and never had any problems at all. Mine is hydro shift, its real sweet no clutch needed jus slide her in gear. I store mine in a steel building and it runs as good as the day I bought her. Since Im looking at a new loader I might consider selling her if there is any interested parties email me or call and Ill shoot some pictures. If anyone has questions I would be happy to answer them the D21 is a perfect size machine not too small and not too big it can be hauled with a pickup truck. Mike 540-721-3124
D20A-6 Lift Cylinders ...Has anyone information or video for rebuilding the lift cylinders. I have heard, but can't find the source, that it is difficult to remove the pistons...Mine is leaking bad and needs to be repaired...I live in a busy oil field area (Eagleford Shale) and the repair shops do not want any business from casual users...and the prices are incomprehensible. I was quoted over $400 and 3 month wait. Obviously they don't want my business. Thanks for help
...got'r fixed...was the screen in the banjo bolt....after coughing and spitting for a couple minutes, she caught on and ran smooth...throttle up or down....first time in a long while...I never saw that filter and it isn't shown in the parts blow up when I rebuilt the lift pump awhile back.
Hi new to this Just fitted some rippers my son made to my D20 see photos
Hey !! - They look pretty good. Your boy does nice work. What is your plan for the hydraulics ? A diverter valve on one of your blade circuits or a new ciruit with it's own valve ?
Hi g-man Hydraulics all done diverter valve and some pipes and adaptors Ripper goes up and down ok but I haven't ripped anything yet . Have photos of hydraulics
That looks great. I would love to see pictures of everything and if you have drawings even if they are on a kitchen napkin they would be great. This is just what I have beeen wanting to do to my D20.
What we did to start off was take a template of the holes in the back of the dozer on some thin plastic sheet stuck on with some double sided tape and cut the holes out, then stuck on to a piece of plywood board and drilled the holes out on the board and then set it off the ground at the right height of the dozer. The ripper tines are off a grader. I can measure it all up for you.
Thanks for the info. Some further questions for you. Was there anything behind the holes that either leaked or the bolts in the holes held in place? On mine they are just flat with the back plate like plugs. Do you remember the bolt sizes? What size hydraulic cylinder do you have on there? I ask these questions because mine is 600 mile from me and if I am going to do any of this I need to prep as much as possible before heading to Ohio. Thanks for what you have shown already. This looks great.
My model is a D20A-6 other models my be different, the bolt size is metric 16 mm I used high tensile 8.8 bolts plated with thread all the way up 2 inches long I believe the -7 has 18mm holes as you can buy a three point linkage being Komatsu I think it would be expensive.The back of the Dozer I think is about 1 inch thick and the holes go right thru. You have to brush any dirt out of the threads before installing bolts and some tighten on the way in but didn't seem to damage the thread on the bolts may be a locking devise ,I put grease on the bolts before installing.I left the tow hook in place and you may get oil from bolt holes down the bottom if seals are leaking on drive sides and the oil level is dropping in bevel gear area (diff ) I think this right I have never had mine apart.The plate up the top with about 6 bolts in it is sealed and opens up the bevel gear oil area, I will tell you later about what I did with this plate . The Hyd Ram Bore 2 1/2 inches - stroke 12 inches -closed length 20 inches -shaft dia 1 1/2inches - Ends 3/4 inch which we drilled out I think 7/8 inch View attachment 121652 View attachment 121653 (
Thanks. That answers a few question because I also have not had to open up the rear end of mine. What brand of diverter valve did you use? If you could do it over again is there anything you would do different? Mine is a D20A5 so it should be similar but given my luck it will be that one they desided to experiment with. You and your son did some great work and I hope to do half as well. In looking at it I am thinking about how I can add linkages to it so I can pull some of my 3 point hitch attachements. Again thanks for the info and hope to talk to you some more. Welcome to the site.
If you are going to take the ripper on and off maybe use the kiwi attachment (in previous threads)to your dozer.I used a 6 way diverter from England 1/2 inch BSP and tapped into front blade circuit. Hoses and fittings from USA. Don't forget its not a D9.I had some photos on previous post they don't work
I hear you about it not being a D9. The great thing about this dozer is it can fit between trees and not damage a whole lot of stuff as it goes. You can move a fair amount of dirt it just takes longer. If I need bigger I have access to a Case 450 that my Brother-in –Law has. My problem is where I am using it is in Southeastern Ohio and the soil has a lot of clay in it. It is in patches and when the blade comes across one of them it digs in and nose dives down making some serious whoop de whoops. It is like a chisel digging in the grain of wood. I am looking at maybe a three blade version to break the soil up a little before moving it. As to the 3 point hitch it would be more for light duty applications at worst I would tow a small dump trailer (1.5 yards) with gravel to build up roads being built. This would keep the tractor from digging in and making ruts before the road even gets started. You have no idea how much I would like to have the sheepsfoot in the left of one of your photos for a month or so. It would make my life so much easier.
The brand of 6 way diverter is flowfit from flowfitonline UK I used 1/2 bspp for flow 90 litres/min but hoses are 3/8" because 1/2" too big in diameter I believe you only need large flow if something is rotating.The valve is what they call open center , not sure if it makes any difference if its open or closed center the way it is in system .Mine works ok so it must be right.Where I put the valve I had to put a extension to the shaft and refit the control handle.The 16mm bolts are course thread 2.0 There is so much to explain this will take some time.I still haven't ripped anything yet ,I put 5 tines on but may only use 3.
Looks great and thanks for the info. Sound like you thought this out and are using good materials. I can't wait to dig into doing this myself. I hate to be a pain and I hope you don't mind my picking your brain.
Here's a image of my machine if anyone is interested call me at 540-721-3124 the machine is in Blairsville Ga
Have any of you put mechanical oil pressure gauges on your D20/D21? If so, where did you hook up to to get the reading? Thanks, Justin
check for broken detent spring if so rplace all with new ones should be able to get print out and parts from komatsu?
I have a D21A6 and throttle cable is stuck. Can anyone give me some ideas? I tried spraying with lubricant to no avail. Thanks for the info!
I have a D20A5 and if it is like mine was where you would be bending large heavy things to get it to move I would just replace it. I tried to do the whole lube thing and it was a no go. I would check to if it was the cable before anything by unhooking it from first the actual throttle to see if it moves or not then do the same with it at the handle end. Mine was just jammed up somewhere in the cable itself. I finally replaced mine and it was maybe a twenty minute job and made life so much easier. I got mine off of Ebay and I think I paid $75.00 for it.
Hello All, New to this site, I own a D20P-6, serial# 67083 and am wondering what year model this is? Having trouble locating Komatsu services near Alice,Tx. Anyone know of any reasonable service companies where I can bring my dozer for service, please let me know. Thanks, hm, [email protected]
Hey, New to the site. Just purchased a komatsu d20p. I lost a track on my hill due to a sapling catching between my idler and track. I went to collapse the cylinder and pull the idler in. But it appears the yoke is completely rusted into the tube. I've been beating and pulling and prying trying to free it up with no luck at all. I've even tried hooking my 4x4 ram to it and yanking it loose as I use the blade in the machine to assist with pulling power . Today I tried heating the tube and the only progress that has given me was all of the grease oozed out of the hole where the grease fitting was. So I could then fill the cylinder with pb blaster. I left it full and tighend a come along to the blade as tight as I could get it with a 3 foot cheater. I will let it sit over night. Hopefully it make breakfast loose in its own. If not I am out of ideas. And clever suggestions from you highly intelligent people would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
cut a log the right length to fit between the blade and idler wheel. then use blade angle to push the idler in. Stupid question of the day: you have been trying to push the idler wheel toward the back of the machine, haven't you?
Should have mentioned that was the first thing I tried.
Newbie here. Just picked up a D20A-6 and had a few questions. How wide (top to bottom) is a new wear blade? Mine has been flipped once, and about 4-5/8 inches with beveled and rounded ends. Is it time to replace it? I found this website looking for info on rippers for the machine. Goldmine!!!! As an owner of a CNC/Manual machine shop with access to CNC frame cutting, I could have a lot of fun with this new toy. Now if I could just find someone to run the shop for me so I can go play.
Where did your son find or buy the claws? Russ F.
Ok. I got the track back on. Cylinder is frozer solid. Would it be a bad idea to tighten the track temporarily by putting 3/4" spacers or grade 8 washers between where the idler wheel mount bolts to the yoke. I assume I will need longer bolts as well. Any clue what size these bolts are? This would be a temporary fix until I get the money to replace the adjuster.
mattrtking, here is a parts page for the recoil spring assembly. You can access this yourself at http://komatsupartsbook.com/#?k=!0!2!1064!44!50 . Are you talking about using longer bolts and washers to replace part number 19? If so, I would think that would work temporarily until you can get a replacement assembly, or have that one repaired. I posted a link back on page 128 for a parts D20-P on Craigslist that is located here in East Texas. I don't know where you are located, so it may not be feasible for you to get to this location and buy the assembly you need from this machine, but I just wanted you to be aware of it. Not even sure the guy would sell just a part of it. I checked the link earlier and it is still active. I wish you luck with it.
Yes. Turns out I only needed to move the idler 1/4" . I went ahead and put 3 washers in between to act as spacers. It worked like a charm. I'll check the link. Thanks for the reply.
here is the d21-6 shop manual if anybody wants it, should be able download it if not let me know... https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3ncDCXYdjTPVS1ueC1aSkJWM1E/edit?usp=sharing
I would like to add a decelerator to my 1995 D21a-7. Anyone ever done this?
Hello, I have a D21a-5 and my left brake is sticking. The brake arm under the seat never returns all the way down level with the right side. Is there an easy fix without having to pull it out? Thanks!
Jeff, it's not that hard to pull the seat out and the floor plates so the linkage is all exposed. I'm wondering if you just have something jammed in the way and it's not letting the linkage move freely. Or maybe there is something that just needs a little oil. It's hard to say from afar, but I would definitely take a look at that first, if it were me. If that isn't it, I would make sure the plunger on the valve control assembly is popping back out after the linkage pushes it in. And if that isn't it, you may just have a brake that is not releasing in the brake/steering clutch assembly. And, of course, it could be other things too. Check back a few pages where we were discussing the steering and brake components. I know I posted quite a bit back there with pictures and all that may help you figure it out. And post back on here after you find out more. Maybe we can aim you a little better with more info. Good luck with it, sir.
I have a D21A6 with a broken clutch cable. Cant seem to locate one, can anyone help me out? The part# is 103-43-33350.
Contact Darin Ray, he's a member here who specializes in baby Kommies: http://www.dmmsales.com/ Also, your local Komatsu dealer should be able to get that, though some of them act like they don't want to admit Komatsu built D21s.
gperk, if Darin Ray doesn't have what you need, our local Komatsu dealer is really good on parts orders. Here is their website.
Hello folks, I'm new the forum and I ain't real sure if I'm posting correctly yet. I recently purchased a Komatsu D21P-6 and I love it. It has about 3400 hours on it and the motor purrs, But it seems the I have a clutch problem cause it will not steer to the left. Also the right track doesn't seem to pull as hard as the left. When trying to load it back on the trailer it kept turning right and running off the ramps. Kinda scary. I had to use the blade and some chain to assist it up on the trailer. If anyone has changed these clutches before I could use some advise and maybe a few pictures if you have them. I've been an aircraft mechanic for 40 years so I have the tools and skills just not enough knowledge of this little machine. Thanks Doug
Doug, you may very well just need to do a little adjustment on the right clutch, or maybe the linkage. We have posted lots of stuff about steering clutches and brakes in the last 10 pages or so. You might want to read some of the posts from them to give you an idea of how the steering works. But I'll throw in a few comments first with my thoughts on what it may be. I'm assuming the left track will stop completely when you pull back on the left brake handle, so it appears to be working fine. The normal mode for the steering clutch and brake, when the steering handle is not pulled out, is that the clutch is fully engaged and the brake is disengaged. When you pull back on the handle slowly, with proper adjustment, the clutch will disengage first, allowing that track to be free-wheeling. As you pull back further, the brake will engage, stopping the track from turning altogether. On my D20A-6, if I pull back slightly on the right steering handle, it will start a slow turn to the right. If I pull back further, it will pivot sharply on the right track. I'm thinking your right clutch is not engaged completely, therefore the left track is pushing harder and causing it to want to go right all the time. There is an adjustment screw that determines how much the clutch release is pushed. I suppose it could be adjusted such that the clutch is always partially released. And you could just have worn clutch plates, but I would think that the ones on the left would be close to the same shape if that were true. And the linkage from the steering handle to the actuator that is pushed in on the steering valve assembly could possibly be always pushing the actuator in a little, causing it to send hydraulic fluid to the piston that pushes on the clutch release, but that's not a common problem, from all I've read. Pulling the clutches is not an easy job. There are posts on this forum that others have written detailing their experiences with that, and it doesn't look like a lot of fun to me. I would try everything else before I went that route, if I were you. It's not that hard to remove the seat and the floor plates, and then you can see the linkage moving and you'll see the actuators on the steering control valve assembly that the handles push in. If you have the shop manual, it will help a bit, but the pictures in it are terrible, and it's very hard to see details of any kind. You might want to look at the Komatsu Parts Book website and find the parts breakdown so you can see more details. I know I've posted links to it a couple of times in the last few pages here. Good luck with it, and please come back and tell us what you find. It helps us all to learn more, and you may save the next visitor a lot of time and frustration.
Thanks RRR, I'll check out what you recommended. It would nice if it is just an adjustment problem. The left side does pull very strongly and the dozer was working fine when I picked it up. I cleared about 2 or 3 acres and the right track just seemed to loose power. Thanks for your quick response. I need to get this little monster running I still have close to 30 acres to clean up. I'll let you know what I find.
Thanks RRR, I'll check out what you recommended. It would nice if it is just an adjustment problem. The left side does pull very strongly and the dozer was working fine when I picked it up. I cleared about 2 or 3 acres and the right track just seemed to loose power. Thanks for your quick response. I need to get this little monster running I still have close to 30 acres to clean up. I'll let you know what I find.
Just noticed your location, Doug. I was born in Cleveland and have all kinds of relatives in that area and In the Houston metroplex. Small world. Your dozer looks nice, but it appears the tracks were changed out for the grouser type. The P in the D21P-6 indicates pyramid type tracks. I don't have the overhead structure you have on yours. I just have the original sun shade fiberglass top, which has been almost entirely ripped off now from some of the clearing I've done. As soon as we get our house built, and my shop is no longer a furniture and household belongings storage shed, I plan to build something on mine to keep limbs and such from trying to stab me or push me off the seat while I'm clearing. I think it will be a good project for me to work on my welding skills.
RRRancher I think I read somewhere that the "P" was for wide tracks whether they are pyramid or grouser. If someone has a definate answer I would love to know so I can be correct in the future. Thanks in advance.
John, I guess I had heard somewhere that the P was for pyramid. But I stand corrected. And thanks for educating me to this. I guess I should not be spouting off things that I just heard but didn't know for sure. I just checked the shop manual and I have to admit that it doesn't make a lot of sense to me, but it appears that the P is a wider track than the A. Here is a snip of the page pertaining to the dry type track link like I have. Like much of this manual, it is a bit difficult to interpret what they are trying to convey. Thanks again, John.
RRRancher I was making sure because I could have been wrong also. Glad you found the correct info from a manual. I am always willing to learn and have learned a massive amount from this thread. I am glad the people here are not afraid to ask and others to help. Heck I would be broke or dead thirty times over if I had to learn from my mistakes. Again thanks for getting the correct info for one and all. Actually I would love to get at least one "p" grouser type shoe to see if they would fit an A model and how much if anything they would have to be trimmed down to get them to fit.
RRR if you didn't live so far I'd give you a hand with that limb sweep project. I've got a nice mig welder and plasma cutter. That's how I keep my junk together LOL. I thought that maybe my tracks were changed but wasn't sure. Going to start on the clutch job this weekend. I'll give you guys an update as soon as I know something. I'll take lots of pictures cause that seems to be the best help when your trying to work on these old toys. Later Doug
I appreciate the offer, Doug, but I really want to make this a long term project to kill two birds with one stone. I want to not only build it to help deflect limbs and stuff, but also to get more experience on my welding. I just bought a welder and cutting torch setup less than a year ago and did the first weld of my life a few days later. I love it but have a long way to go before I can lay down a near perfect bead. I practiced a bit on scraps then fixed a broken weld on the three point hitch of my bush hog as the first real use of it. It's still holding fine, although it would not pass muster for a welding instructor, I'm sure. But this is going to be months in the future when my shop is my shop again. As soon as our house sells, we can start on the new one, and then when it is finished, I can empty all the household stuff into the house where it belongs. It won't be soon enough. That's for sure. You are correct on the pictures. You know what they say. A picture is worth a thousand words. Good luck with it, sir. I hope it doesn't take long to get it resolved so you can start having fun.
Just found this thread and started reading. On page 40 , lots of good info. Just got my machine its a D21P-5 Im going to screen in my csanopy first off , lots of sticks flying around with what Im pushing.
The clutch linkage cable keeps sticking and I have to take out the floorboards. (About 10 bolts) As soon as I barley touch it , it springs free? Anyone got any ideas? The cable/linkage is brandnew. -5
Ken, you might try some dry slide. It is a dry graphite lube. We use it on some places on the planes I work on. It's not effected by heat or cold. By the way very nice looking machine. Here's a picture of mine.
If it's a D21, not a D20; powershift, not direct drive, that's an inching pedal, not a clutch pedal. It just moves a valve spool on the transmission. Komatsu recommends that you not use it for stopping, starting, and direction changes, believe it or not. They say just move the gearshift, even at full throttle.:beatsme If it's sticking with a new cable, it's usually the valve spool.
Need some help/advice. D21P-5 First job with machine today and first breakdown.................... Track fell off. Didn't look loose to me I hope this isn't going to be a ongoing problem. Can anyone tell me how to go about putting it back on? Thanks................................
Well im not going that fast so Ill try not using it much. When you say valve spool you mean the valve itself needs work?
Well that was bad luck. Collapse your track tensioner and push it back all the way. Use a come-along or a block behind your blade and angle it back or a tractor. Get it off the ground - if there is a hitch on the back block under it, or any place rear of the sprocket you can block will help get the back end up when you raise the front. Raise the machine off the ground with the blade. You want the track to be looped under the rollers. Get it on the top of the sprocket first. Then work it around - easier said than done. Good luck.
Got it done following your basic instructions. Tensioner wouldn't go back and I wasn't sure whether I should take the grease zerk right out. I just loosened it and after lots of playing around the grease started oozing out. What would happen if I took it right out? So anyway got it back on , work for a couple of hours and it fell off again. I must have problems, right? Both times it fell off when I was backing straight up. Suppose I need new front idlers? Are the available ? How hard are they to change?
Ouch. Hard to say what might be wrong. When you go forward the bottom of the sprocket pulls the chain under the machine. So the chain is tight on the bottom between the front idler and rear sprocket. Everything, sprocket, rollers, and idler, should be lined up straight so the track won't try to come off. But if there is a misalignment the weight of the machine will tend to hold the machine down on the chain. Plus there is more stuff on the bottom as track guides. When you go in reverse the top of the sprocket pulls the chain tight over the top roller and idler making the top of the chain tight and bottom loose. If there is any misalignment the chain is more likely to pull off on top because you don't have the weight of the machine holding the chain in place thru the misalignment. That's why it comes off easier backing up. Get the u/c wear specs and check your under carriage components. Chains, idlers, and rollers. Over wear is common but it might give you an idea where your trouble is coming from. Make sure every thing is lined up. Make sure the track frame isn't bent cocking a front idler in or out. The top roller should be centered, same with bottom rollers. Are your chains worn so much or the front idler worn so much that the pins contact the center of the idler and cause the chain to ride up on the front idler. Raise the machine with the blade and watch the track run front and back. Maybe you can see why it is trying to come off. Removing the tensioner zerk won't cause any trouble.
Worked about 4 hours today in rough country. The tracks were binding up I could hear them but they stayed on. Front idler has about as much meat as my finger? Back sprocket looks new doesn't it?
They both look good to me
Your inching pedal sticking is probably sticking on the swivel mount or mounts. Best to take cable off and check where it's hard to move.... A remove... clean... lube... and reinstall will get that baby free moving again. With the tracks coming off I can't tell by the pics of the condition of the bottom rollers.. Make sure the flanges are all intact. Before they come off can you see that the tracks keep loosening up? Also be sure to check side to side play in the front idler (shaft movement too) does it move up and down alot off the frame rail? Good luck..
Front idler does move around a bit.
new to the forum and a first time dozer owner. I just purchased a D20p-7 and im wanting to change all fluids. There are 3 plugs on the rear under side of dozer one in the middle and one on each side. could someone tell me what these drain plugs go to? also what oil should be in the chunk at the rear of tracks? thanks
Welcome to the forum, treylt. The operator manual lists all the fluids that go in the various places on the dozer. If you don't have a manual, you can purchase one online at a website I linked a few pages back. I have a D20A-6, and I know what to use on mine, but not sure on your model. Edit: I found the website again and here is a list of all the manuals for the D20 line. https://www.tradebit.com/filesharing.php/search/0/komatsu+d20a For normal maintenance, you will want the Bulldozer Operation and Maintenance Manual for your serial number. For disassembling and reassembling and adjustments, you will want the Workshop Service Repair Manual for your serial number. They also have a combo package with both of them.
thank you for your reply. ill look for that post and try to get a manual ordered or downloaded. im in the process of pulling one of my steering clutches to rebuild now im sure the manual would be very handy
Well, don't count too much on the shop manual for that. It is not the best thing for sure. The pictures in the original manual were done very poorly, and it is difficult to see any details in them. And the instructions are written in, what some would refer to as, Jinglish. You have to think about what they are trying to say sometimes to understand them. There has been lots of discussion here about pulling and working on the clutches. Some have uploaded some really good pictures of the process that will probably help you as much or maybe more than the shop manual will. If you have a printer at home, I would suggest just downloading the manual(s) in PDF format, and if you need a reference in the shop, just print the page or pages needed to take with you. If they get dirty, no biggee. Good luck with it, and let us know how it turns out.
Thanks for all the advice. I've read most of the posts in this thread and found tons of useful info. I appreciate all the experts posting on here helping us beginners. I'll surely keep you posted. Can't wait to get the dozer going and start cleaning the place up. Thanks again for your help!
Ok fellas im pretty new to this just bought a used D21p-7 and im looking to buy a book for it but for now i though i ask about some maintenance things. The dozer runs great has 2100 hrs but im having some problems with reverse ill list below and add picture. 1-Im unsure of parts look up because my tag only says D21p-7 and the part manual online RRR posted a few threads ago has several versions of the d21 How can i tell what the extra letter is in the model number 2- Also would like to know the year, my ser# is 78448 3- I need a list of capacities and weights of oils and fluids. ( i want to do a full service on it before i work it much) 4- Also need help determining where to check and fill these fluids (some are obvious like the motor) RRRancher seems to be quite knowledgeable on these little babies! when i find these things i intend on posting pictures to help other people because pictures are worth a thousand words. below is a picture of mine. 5-Reverse sometimes will not go, but after working the power shift forward and reverse it finally goes.. i noticed a site glass on the right rear of the body behind the door that is very low.. is this hydraulic oil check or what. please explain
My D21A-7 serial # is 78529 and it is a 1995 model.
yes i did find this site that was helpful. http://alaskaexcavators.com/Komatsu_Dozer_Models.htm and this one http://alaskaexcavators.com/D21P_Brochure.pdf but does not specify the exact year. i figure the serial number might help. I ALSO noticed the specs on the battery on the Brochure page says its 12v system. mine is wired 24v using 2 batteries and not one as stated,,, so i dont really know whats going on there.
you can get a decelerator option here. http://alaskaexcavators.com/Komatsu_Dozer_Models.htm
Howd you get that info DwayneC ? i need that for a D21p-7........
you can get one here tpitt.... http://alaskaexcavators.com/Komatsu_Dozer_Models.htm
1995 model you have.. And yes your machine is a 24V system.
I need to find an owners manual for it, one that will show me where everything is to check and service, not necessarly a shop manual cause they skip right past the simple stuff. thanks for your help darinray!!!
Shop manuals for the following... D20/D21-5 https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3ncDCXYdjTPUklpeU14dGcyTmM/view?usp=sharing D20/D21-6 https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3ncDCXYdjTPVS1ueC1aSkJWM1E/view?usp=sharing D20/D21-7 https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3ncDCXYdjTPVXJiSlV4Wkl6amM/view?usp=sharing Should all be downloadable...
Now that is very helpful to just about everyone here, get em while you can!!! Thank you DwayneC Only problem is i cant find my model and ser in that manual,, maybe i'm reading it wrong or just don't understand all the different lettering behind the model numbers, but mine is a D21P-7 ser# 78448..
Need some clarification Please, First picture show a piece of tape covering a hole on the dash, What gauge or instrument goes in this hole? Second picture is the two dip sticks in the floor, what are they??? and what fluids go in them??? This is a 1995 D21P-7
ffmloyd,the empty space on the console is a fuse box.The dip stick closes to the engine is for the transmission (30wt.)The dip stick closes to the rear is ring and pinion gear oil(30wt.)Hope this helps and I use non-detergent oil.
It sure does help Dozmen!! I need this info so i can go buy the oil and get the service done before i put it to use. I assume you are talking about 30w motor oil right? It would be even more helpful if i knew all the oils to use in it, finals and hydraulic fluid..I got some 10w-40 diesel oil for the motor at atwoods a couple days ago. keep looking for 10w hydraulic oil but i can find any that says that on the bucket. atwoods had hydraulic oil that says 303 on the label and i dont know what that means.. why dont they put the weight? even looked it up on line and it didnt list the weight.......... on my TD15C dozer it even says on the label, "use 10w Hydraulic oil" but i cant find it in stores... I pulled both of those dipsticks today the rearward one looks clear with some black soot in it and smells like burnt clutch, is that normal?.. the front one is just barely touching the dipstick. thanks for your help you don't know how much i appreciate it! and Merry Christmas.
ffmloyd,The 10w oil we get from Tractor Supply,I have a list of proper oils to be used in this machine.But,not with me. If you go back through the threads I no for sure it's in there.(I no the list is long but very well worth it)
Ive been reading from page one a not even up to page 30 yet.. still havent found what i need to know, but when i do ill make a instructional picture thread so the next person wont have the trouble ive had.. if you get that info please let me know. you are welcome to email me or what ever you want. im trying to make a detailed list with everything in it... Thank you Dozman !!!
These are the best two post on this site ive seen yet. good question and straight to the point answer.. after reading 95 pages on this form i came across this and its helped the most so far.
g-man. im just curious, how did you get the back of that dozer off the ground? i can see you used the blade to lift the front. Ive also recently retired and we bought an old farm and bought two dozers, one is the little D21p-7 and the big one is TD15c. im gonna have to weld some grousers on my TD so i will need to get it up like you did.. I know this is an old post here but ive started at the front of this thread and im reading my way back. a week down and only about 40 more pages to go..This forum has some good guys and good info.. Thanks
do it the hillbilly way. cut yourself some 6x6 or 8x8 blocks, put some under the blade, lift the front with the blade, put a block under the center of both tracks, let the front back down. this should rock the dozer up in the rear. crib block the rear end and then pick the front back up enough to get the center blocks back out. block under the front and you should have the tracks off the ground.
very good thinking!!, why didn't i think of that, i'm arkansas hillbilly! wasn't in my redneck book i guess..
jld's method is good. I used a 20 ton jack ( machine only weights 15K ) under the rear pin hitch. Got it as high as I could and blocked under the rear main frame. Put a block under the jack and went up another tier. Kept raising the front with the blade and blocking under the blade C frame where the pins are to keep it level front to back.
I NEED AN OPERATORS MANUAL For a Komatsu D21P-7 ser# 78448, does any one have one or know where i can get one? Darin does not have one I've already check with him..............Thanks
HI all!! I have been looking for a small dozer for a while. I think that I may have found one and am in need of some opinions on whether this is a good unit or not, and what you all would do. I am looking at a Komatsu D21p-5 serial 57568. The hour meter is not working as far as i know, the machine looks to be in good shape from the pics that I have seen. They are asking $14,900.00 they have put a whole new bottom on, tracks, rollers, everything a couple years ago and have used it about 100hrs according to them. They also stated that it needs a new battery and a throttle cable. The owner has said that is a 96, or a 95, But when i read some info on alaska equipment's site it said this model number was pre 1985. Is this a good price, and is there anything that i should look for when i go look at it, other than the obvious leaks and what not.
I would say that market price, i checked on batteries the other day at 120 ea (x2),, I would say its more in the line of a 1980's model, Darin is very helpful on this and parts too! maybe he will see this post and respond. I done a google search and you can find places that is selling them and compare prices to what you have.. and as far as having the under carriage rebuilt, i ask to see docs on it for proof. alot of people say that and its not so. Been there. good luck and welcome to the forum its very helpful,, you need to read the 130 something pages on these dozers..
Here is a link to it. http://newhaven.craigslist.org/grd/4808956369.html
Looks like they have change out the Tracks, the P model came with Pyramid tracks, looks like OEM paint. If it close to you Id go Look at it drive it and test everything, look for leaks and get oil samples if possible.. I saw a buyers guide somewhere that is a handy list.. theres guys in here that alot more knowledgeable about it than I, Ive been learning also.. I just bought a D21p-7 and this site has helped me alot..
http://alaskaexcavators.com/Komatsu_Dozer_Models.htm
I have now read all 134 pages of this thread:woohoo took me 2 weeks !,, lots of good info i WISH i would have referenced some in notes. So you new comers ,,,, do your self a favor and make notes pertaining to your dozer, cause you will wanna go back and look something up ! :Banghead
Congratulations! Back when I was dozer shopping I read through this whole thread. Tehre is so much great info located in it. Someone should index and catalog as it is hard to get through everything easily.
Well, I went and looked at the dozer today it looks pretty good, but is in need of a oil/trans cooler, and a new throttle cable. I found the throttle cable, but am lost when it comes to the cooler, cant find anything. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I ran one of those D21s for several years for a guy from Wallingford (Don Schmelter) who lived about a mile from the spot on the map in the ad there,they were a good dozer,we also had a D41 and a D85,I always liked the Komatsu machines,they were solid and heavy enough to get the job done.Eastern Equipment used to be the dealer locally but they are Case now I think,maybe they have some old inventory.It should not be too hard to source that cooler,some radiator shops could probably make one for you.Ron G
the cooler is pretty tough, it may just need resealed. any radiator shop could probably seal off any leaky internal tube. replacement can be costly. good luck
contact Darin at " [email protected] " he probably has the cooler kits and manuals
Yesterday plowing snow with my DP21 I had some noises happening? Coming from the rear final drive area , almost sounds like the track catches on something then comes free with a bang? Doesn't do it all the time , sounds like the noise when the tracks flexing? Its bad....................any ideas? How do you check the oil in the final drives? Am I calling it right by calling the sprocket on the back the final drive?
The snow packs in the tracks while working and when it compresses the track spring enough that it cannot compress any more it rebounds with a bang to start the cycle all over again.If it needs pins and bushings probably the sprocket needs replacing too and they have been known to slip on the track chain and that might contribute to the noises you hear too. The finals have a fill plug on each one that you can see from the rear of the dozer,probably a 3/4" drive plug.Ron G
Thanks Ron , that sounds exactly right.
Ron, can you explain track spring to me please? Where is it? That's exacly how I would explain the noise it sounds like something loading up then letting loose. Sprockets are good from what Ive been told. It only started doing this since I started pushing snow.
The spring is in the chain slack adjuster. It is heavy duty and is designed to keep from breaking chains and sprockets by recoiling back in when something gets stuck in the tracks as it rotates over the sprocket like rocks and brush. Snow and ice do not compress well but tend to stick in the chain. The ice ball forces the spring to retract when it goes through the sprocket and then the spring releases when the ice ball clears or pops in the sprocket. Hope this helps.
Sorry to be dumb , I understand what your saying but where is this spring?
The spring is under the cover that protects the track frame from debris falling off of the track chain as it passes over the rollers.Adjusting the track tension,usually with a grease gun these days,preloads the spring to tension the tracks to the mfg specs,usually measured between the front top roller and and the front idler with a straightedge. I wouldn't run the tracks too tight in snow or sometimes sand will cause similar problems.Ron G
If you have a choice push the snow when it is dry and powdery. It will not bang nearly as much if at all like good snowball snow will.
Makes sense again lol , its very warm here and the snow is deep , wet and sticky.
D21P I lost a bunch of oil tonight just before dark so Im not sure what it was or where it came from? It wasn't engine oil it was clean. I know I read somewhere here what oil went where but I cant seem to find it now I need the info. The tank with the site window on the side is for what? And what kind of oil is it? 2 fillers on floor , which is transmission and which is hyd? Do hyd and transmission take the same oil? I guess in the morning Ill take off the belly pan and have a look. The oil came out fast and lots of it.
The tank on the side with the site glass is hydraulic oil,the other side is fuel.Check the hydraulic filters and hoses for perforation as cold hydraulic oil can build tremendous pressures until it warms up and the check valves and bypass circuits don't always operate properly on an old and cold machine.Ron G
Im trying to figure out the two fillers on the floor , which is hyd and which is transmission? I think my oil leak is hyd , but wont know until I pull belly pan. Hyd and transmission take 2 different oils don't they?
Im not finding anywhere the hyd filler?
I can't remember where they are on a D-21.If you check around there are oils that you can use for the transmission and hydraulic systems,Hy-Tran comes to mind but there may be more these days.If you check your reservoirs you should be able to see which kind of oil is leaking by which reservoir is low.If nothing else a phone call to the dealer should pay off for you.Also ask the dealer if you can use Hy-Tran.Ron G.
Where to dump the oil in is my biggest problem , Ive been reading here all morning and still havnt found the answer . Im sure its here somewhere. I fouind out what kind of oils to use but not where to put them. Theres ni filler on top of hyd tank the batteries are there?
What dash number is this? On a -6, the hydraulic oil filler is inside the door on the right side, beside the seat on the outside.
Its a 5
That's where the batteries are.
Found it thanks.
Is that where it is on a -5? On a -6 the batteries are behind the seat.
The hydraulic and Trans are the same types of oil everything uses motor oil, just dont chose one with alot of additives or High Detergent., oil weight depends on your Climate, I just changed my fuel, motor oil, and hyd filters yesterday it was such a nice day here, in the 60's. but i chose to go with 30W Non Det oils for my trans, clutch and Hydraulic because it will get pretty hot in the summer, i wanted 10w-30 but couldn't find it here,, All of your oils call for motor oil, but specs in the book are mainly for cold climates, as in hydraulic fluid to be 10w motor oil. hope this helps.
Parts for komatsu dozers I found a great website for parts book "komatsupartsbook.com". Free pdf files for komatsu parts with numbers and pitchers. This helps a lot finding where every thing is on these dozers
Hey, I have the d21a with the 11.8in 300mm shoes and am wondering if the d21 p shoes would bolt in place which are 20.1in 510mm any help would be apreciated
Welcome aboard Loggin..... The answer is no because you wouldn't have the clearance for the wider shoes. Now if you had the P model and wanted to go with the 12" shoes then yes but it does kinda look funny.. I sell to customer that want this the 14" shoes when in stock. They go fast... Good luck with everything..
Had my track fall off again and I think I may have found the problem. The front idler wheel seems to be loose and has sideways slop in it. Is there a bearing in the front idler hub assembly?
Loggin,,,,,,sent you an email....
darinray ill trade you all my P model shoes for 12in ones. Not joking, is something like that possible? I need a narrower track badly.
There are several ways the front idler can have play in it. Yes there is a bearing that would be shot and non serviceable if there was that much play in it. It may be a combination though. Bad bearing... shims on frame rail wore... side shims not adjusted properly.. plus the idler wearing face may be bad too. Once you remove the track and idler you will be able to tell what is happening. Or get a big bar and pry it in different directions.. Good luck
Are they single bar shoes or pyramids... If pyramids I already have a almost complete set here for over 5 years. If they are single bar shoes then maybe but it depends on condition of yours.
How much play do you have ?? Is it in the bearing or are the track frame spacers worn ??
Im sure its the bearing? How hard is it to change and how hard is it going to be to buy?
Pyramids. Where would I look to buy the others? You?
parts web site go to this web site "komatsupartsbook.com" select your model and down load the parts book. it shows the parts numbers and location. good luck. I had a machine shop rebush the idler on an old T340 for me.
Much thanks for the info Also does anyone have experience with a ripper, 3pt hitch or winch application for the d21? I have a small farm and need to get all the use out of the machine I can. The d21 is great for what it is I have cleared 20 acres of heavy overgrowth and dug a 3/4 acre pond. Well worth the money
There are a few places in this thread where several different people have built 3 pt hitches, a few rippers, and at least one who put a winch on his.
I have a set of new 20" single bar shoes mounted on re pinned and bushed chains for your machine.. I also have the front idler here in stock as well so yes you can buy them from me if you wish.
pmed you.
I am looking at buying a d37p-2 serial number 1604,I believe this would make it a 88-9 model. I don't have alot of experience with komatsu dozers. the machine has good uc, lgp,7000 hrs priced at 15k. I haven't physically looked at or operated the machine yet, in pics it looks pretty clean for its age. this will be a farm dozer doing clearing and grading. how reliable are these tractors? any known trouble areas to be aware of? I can't afford a d4-5 or 650 jd so I am hoping this machine might provide an answer. appreciate your opinions and help thanks. Admin hope this is allowed
While I'm not familiar with this particular machine, Komatsu makes a very good dozer. They are the number 2 equipment maker in the world, after all. Keep in mind the D37 isn't really comparable to a D5-650 size, it's closer to a D3-450 in weight and hp, but that size can still be very capable.
thanks mitch, the d37 i believe is a 80 horsepower machine in the 15,000 lb range, I love a good jd 450 but I haven't been on a small machine in alot of yrs. My line of work keeps me on 8t's and 6t's for finish. My concern is reliability of older komatsu's as i just don't know much about them, loved the old pc400's but that was ages ago. been looking at 450-550's but everybody is way over priced on iron for the age and condition. lot of wore uc's advertised at 50-60 or 70 percent life left. If this weather ever lets up enough so i can get out of our holler i'll head down and test drive it may have more questions or answers then.
Hello Komatsu owners, Being new here now but made a lot of use of this site by reading your experiences. Just finished a sort of revision and cleaning of one of the steering clutches of my Komatsu D20S-5 track-loader. This due to the familiar "not steering at one side" issue. All parts are going as new now and have been mounted back, however I am wondering how to de-air the hydraulic steering system? Noticed a significant amount of pressure on the system when the engine is running. Logical because this pressure has to press the 8 springs inside the clutch drum. Found a little squared shaped screw (7mm) at the hose connection on the top of each of the hydraulic cylinders (which pushes the clutch rod). Has this little screw a 'bleeding" function like with cars or is there a different way to get the air out of the hydraulic steering system. Assuming this is the issue of not having a clutch now after mounting all together. Thanks for your suggestions, regards, Rien
Hello Everyone I'm looking for a aftermarket manufacture for the four post rops for a komatsu d20a-6 I cannot find anything on the internet if anyone could give me a website or place to call would be greatly appreciated Thanks John
I don't know of anyone who might have a rops for these machines. They were designed with a canvas top. I set mine in the shop and fabricated one to fit the mount holes with heavy 1/4" thick square tubing and expanded metal screen. It may not be osha certified but it still works for me. I've bumped a few trees with it without tearing it up. I made the mistake of going into the woods on it with out the headache cover and got hit with a dead limb from twenty feet up. "Ouch" and sixteen stiches. How it hard hat and rops cage for me.
Got another question for you guys on here are repacking the hydraulic cylinders on these dozers very hard I have the correct spanner wrench and was wondering what size nuts are on the lift,angle and tilt cylinder. Any input greatly appreciated Thanks John
check out this website "komatsupartsbook.com". Free pdf files for komatsu parts with numbers and pitchers. This helps a lot finding where every thing is on these dozers
Greetings All. My Komatsu D-21P has always started purring smoothly after a 2-5 second crank. After sitting for 3 months, cranked and got a little dark smoke and firing on 1-2 cylinders. Tank has always been full. Further cranking yields no firing at all. I'm new to diesels in general, would like a overview to troubleshooting the fuel system. I've read through the forum and lots of detailed fix its, but would like most efficient approach. I'm hoping something simple like priming. I don't know where and how many fuel filters there are or how to identify & troubleshoot lift and injection pumps yet. Don't have a manual for it.
WELCOME ABOARD. Try to take the banjo fitting out on the bottom of the priming pump. It's just a fitting holding the fuel line from the tank on the primer pump but it has a screen in it that could need cleaning out. Then after putting it back together just primp the girl until you hear fuel running back to the tank or until the pumping gets hard. Good luck...
Thanks darinray, I will do that. Priming the pump gets a good stream from the middle bleed screw in the intermediate stage above the screw-on can filter.the other lateral bleed screw not so much. When I loosened the terminal #1 injector hose I get a little fine droplet splatter with the engine cranking, but no "spurt" , not sure what to expect here... Roger the banjo fitting, screen, and listening for fuel return to tank or gets hard pumping. (Tank is full but we'll listen). Best wishes!
D21-P Zexel primer pump cleaning (Re: D-21 fuel starvation after sitting. )You were spot on with the fouled primer pump. A few remarks re: this procedure. A little preparation will save multiple trips back to the tool shed and a lot of banjo sounds.. I expected to control the disconnected fuel line with a vice-grip or C-clamp on it...not. Controlling the fuel line is essential before disassembling the bottom filter/bolt. Don't expect to tap & blow on it to clear it while the line drips. Eventually found a 1/4 in smooth re-bar that fit perfectly and made a tight seal when the banjo clamp was tightened. A toothbrush and cup of fuel is good to have on hand to clean the nylon mesh filter in the bottom bolt. Main thing is to catch all the parts when you take off the bolt. Removing bolt allows what must have been a brass washer to fall into the engine pan or ground. Someplace it's difficult to see, much less reach. I realized this when reassembling the yolk-nipple and couldn't achieve a seal at full torque. Blind groping in the greasy acorn-mud with fingertips failed to reward my efforts, so today I get to find a replacement for this specialty washer. "For want of a nail the horseshoe was lost..." I've got a good feeling about this being the fix though.
D21A-5 Brake adjustment problem Hello, I have owned a D21A-5 for about 6 years. My dozer has developed an issue over the winter months, the right clutch/brake works fine, however the left is a different story. The left clutch seems to disconnect power just fine, however when moving forward the brake barely engages to the point it is almost impossible to turn left. Going backwards works just fine, with the clutch disengaging power and the brake grabbing quite nicely. So I think to myself there must be an adjustment, I open the small cover on the top rear over the clutch/brake area and there is an adjustment bolt that sticks out. I crank this bolt about 1/2 turn and give it a try. Now the brake works fine while going forward, however in reverse without pulling on the lever at all, I can tell the brake is dragging. I back it off halfway and it goes back to not working in the forward direction. So, am I missing something? Or is there a broken spring or retainer that keeps the brake off when reversing? I attached a picture of the diamond shaped cover for the Brake Adjustment. Any helpful advice would be welcome before I start disassembly!
If you can't find those brass "Crush Washers" at a hardware store, try a motorcycle shop. They use them on motorcycle brake systems all the time. Just take the one you have left as a sample.
Hi guys, newbie here. Hope I'm doing this right. I'm looking at a D20s and wonder if a clam-shell bucket can be fitted to this machine. Thanks for your help.
hi all i have a d21p-5 and wanted to know if anyone has seen or put a pto shaft on one of these dozers.
Need help with ignition starter problem with Komatsu d 20. I have connected all batteries and get power to starter. I can make starter work by jumping it at starter but cannot get ignition switch to power starter. It seems none of the wires coming to and from ignition switch are hot. I have entire wire harness removed and am working in shop away from dozer. Help
Robert, Believe it or not, your problem is more than likely your alternator. The starter has an extra small solenoid that acts as a safety to keep the starter from engaging while the engine is running. It gets the power from the 2nd terminal of the alternator. If the diodes go bad on the alternator, it puts enough power (voltage) on that terminal to keep the starter from engaging when you hit the ignition switch. A simple test is to disconnect the the wires coming from the alternator. Of course, it's not so simple when you have the wiring harness removed. This is a common problem with these little dozers and if anyone has one long enough, they will eventually see the problem. Guess how I know!
Thanks. i will put it back together and do that. Is there no way to operate an ignition switch and starter on a bench?
I'm sure you can if everything is exactly right. I haven't figured out how All of the electrical system works yet. Komatsu does some weird things with the electrical....such as feeding 24volts to something and switching the ground to turn it on. Do you have your starter grounded? With everything hooked up properly, the starter grounded and the alternator feedback disconnected, it should work on the bench. Unless the starter or switch is actually bad.
Jeff, are you sure the left clutch is disengaging completely as it will be tough for the brakes to act when the rotating power is still active. On my D20S, (exactly the same set up as your blue D21 proven the picture) I adjusted and matched both brakes by tighting the bolt (you mentioned) by pushing each brake pedal. While pushing the pedal your feel the resistence of the brakeband around the drum. That resistence AND distance to metal under the pedal you can easily adjust as well as the match between both pedals. Coming back to my first question, are you sure the clutch on left is completely disengaging? The distance between center of machine and clutchrod should be 121 mm. Due to wear and tear of plates that distance might have been changed resulting in less clutch activity. Success and regards, Rien
ROPS for the Dash 5 Try Moore Equipment .. Jackson Tenn. I bought one from them maybe ten years ago for my D21P-5. If memory serves it was about $700 shipped to Cali. It came with the four mounting brackets, four tabs and bolts. You bolt on the brackets, attach the tabs to the ROPS, and place it on the brackets, and weld it on where you want it. On the Dash 5 machines, the front brackets go where the front lights were mounted but that's not a problem as I mounted FOUR lights tucked up inside the four corners of the ROPS .. vastly superior to the OEM set-up. You can avoid the pricey Komatsu or Cat 24v lights by just wiring sets of two 12v lights in series, or just go with the 24v ac/dc LEDs available nowadays. You can Never have too much light on any earthmover. Your Dash 6 has straight sides and battery access from the rear, but Moore should be able to accommodate you if they are still making them.
I need a shift cable for my d21p-6. Where can I get one? G
Call Kent Baugh Equipment at tel:888-625-7617 or 903-639-2765
I'm building a set of rippers for my 1995 D21A-7 dozer and would like to put a 3rd valve in. This has the two stick blade control with the separate lever for the angle. Could I put another spool valve in line with another lever? If so how would I do it? Do I have to put a diverter valve in. I don't know any thing about hydraulics, and appreciate any advice I get. Thanks, Terry
Try DM Machinery (716) 942-6318. ask for Darin.
Hello everyone I have a two post fiber glass canopy for sale for the d20a-6 models that is in reasonably good shape just a little rusty and is cracked on the very top I bought a four post canopy so I no longer need it if interested pm me and we will talk price I live in KY so it will have to be pickup only. thanks John
Where did you get the 4 post and how much? Thanks, Terry
I got the 4 post from a place in Jackson tn with brackets shipping and all was around 1300 bucks contact this guy he will help you out Jeff maitland Construction and equipment 1 (731) 554-1180 [email protected]
Komatsu d20 wont move Hello I am new to this forum and new to dozers. I have been hanging around here for a few months just reading. I was hoping someone could help me out. I bought a d20-p6 dozer and was able to run for a few hours, like maybe 20, when the machine suddenly stopped steering. When I pulled on the right stick the dozer just stopped. I talked to Darin of this board who advised me to first check that the spools were all the way out, and if they were to pull the plug on the steering case and check for oil in the left which I did. There was no oil in the clutch because the plugs were gone on both sides. Then I decided I should pull the cover and have a look at the left side clutch. When I took the cover off I discovered the cylinder that actuates the clutch was stuck out so I cleaned it up and put it back together. Now neither track will pull. I have taken the inspection cover off the back of the bevel gear case and looked in to see the bevel gear turning. The clutches must be released but I don't know what I have done wrong to cause it. Like I said earlier I hope someone can help!
Bleeding Steering Case? D21P-5 .. Hyd Filter info Bleeding Steering Case? D21P-5 Left brake cover was removed to refurbish the brake crank shaft and add lube point. Now it seems that the left steering clutch is not disengaging the clutch 100% .. it will turn left with added effort and lugs down the engine a bit, and the right side works fine as before. I'm wondering if there is a method to perhaps bleed the left steering clutch piston system? I'm thinking perhaps there may be some air captivated within, reducing the piston travel. The mini-pipe plugs on mine are 9/32" square male, and given that this machine is 30 years old, I have opted to get the right tool .. I don't have a 9/32" 8-point socket Grey Pneumatic (1211P) 3/8" Drive 11-Piece Pipe Plug Socket Set (Amazon) .. the 9/32" female socket fits Perfectly. Now the machine Is Functional, but if I can restore the left clutch to proper disengagement that would be awesome. I have already adjusted the lever to plunger to minimum spec (0.5mm to 0.0mm clearance). I've got two bladder tank pads to excavate here (20k & 50K) .. Cali drought stuff. Filter cross reference hell. Now I swear by Wix filters .. and Delo 400 .. my D21P-5 has over 28K hours on her. The Wix cross for the D21P-5 hydraulic filter is A24A10E which crosses over to a NAPA version available for the paltry sum of $160 .. totally ridiculous. I did find another vendor online selling it for $70 .. still pretty darn pricey. I checked the threads and they are 48mm x 2mm .. humongous for a small dozer, but it is what it am. What I found is .. Fleetgaurd HF7935 .. fits perfectly. Found one on evilbay for $16 shipped .. sweet! Still in the shrink wrap stuff .. says Made in Italy .. go figure Apparently common to large Volvo and Hitachi excavators requiring high throughput. Online it also crosses over to Baldwin BF8906, Donaldson P502382, and lastly Luber-Finer LFH5941. Luber-Finer was bought by Fram, so caveate emptor. Hope this helps you guys .. spend your saved money on something less boring ehh Vendor recommendation: Placed a $370 bulk filter order (8 machines, 2 generators, and 2 vehicles) from these guys down in Texas, and you might give them a look. As you know Napa Gold is Wix, and I got a mix of Wix and Napa Gold in my order, and probably saved close to $150 over what the local prices are here for Wix. Fleetfilter dot com. Cheers!
Just wanted to know how steep of grades these d20 will go up and down safely
Do any of you d21 guys know why my left brake might have locked up, when the machine sat for a few months? Mine has pilot steering control. Will stall engine on hard right hand turn attempt, right track working normal. I have it on blocks, and cannot break the track loose. Any ideas, anyone???
I am new member with old dozer, D20P-6. Is there any way to adjust steering clutches. Machine will stall under load without spinning tracks. Am I expecting too much?. Shouldn't the tracks spin if blade too full? Could use some guideance?
I would back off the adjusting nut on the brake band if it's tight OR the linkages just got froze up by rusting and when you acutated it for the first time after sitting it just can't release.. Can't imagine it anything major given the circumstances of working before storing machine.. Good luck and kindly post your results so we know what happens..
These dozers have no adjusting on the steering clutches themselves as they are always engage with the springs inside the assembly... THey could just be wore out and need replacing or oil soaked and need replacing. But in your case if both tracks stall (not spinning) under load it may very well be your main clutch that is slipping and needing replacing. Keep us posted on what you find.. Oh and WELCOME aboard.
What did you find Post Oak? Just got on here and seen then messages and now I'm curious.
Well I shot myself in the foot! When I pulled the clutch cover I moved the hydraulic lines out of the way and somehow crossed them when I hooked it back up. The tractor still wouldn't steer right after I got it put back together. As I was moving it out of the way I drove it into a stand of brush and when I drove it into the trees it turned hard left and now it will only turn in tight circles. seems like the left track is not driving at all now. I was almost finished with my project so I rented some equipment to finish up. After I get through the first cutting of hay I will get back to it. Hopefully you will be able to help with parts
Hello, This is my first post in this forum. I think I must have read through all 139 pages by now, a dozen at a time and not in order. There is so much great info in here thanks to some very dedicated members. I don't recall reading anything regarding the engine oil pressure and where the best test point would be. I have a d21p-6 and I would assume right beside the oil pressure sending unit should work there are two small hex plugs of an unknown thread pitch. I would probably just pull the sending unit and test there but it needs a special socket which I do not possess and is tighter than I dare twist on with my big channel locking pliers. So I'm hoping someone on here would know where to find an adapter for these plugs or an easier test point. Also thank you to all you posting members so far I have learned so much already from this forum I hope I might someday be able to contribute as well!
Welcome aboard Windsport... It should be 1/8" pipe thread and would come with the oil pressure sending or testing kits I THINK. Let me ask you this though.. Why are you checking it.... If your oil pressure light come on start off by changing the sending unit. just last week has a local guy worried his oil pressure was low and when I went out there I seen oil creepage around the sending unit area. We changed it and the light didn't come back on again. Keep us posted and good luck with everything...
I guess mostly for curiosity sake. A light doesn't do much for indicating engine condition. I just bought this dozer a month ago and there are a few issues to take care of first before putting it to work. I did try a 1/8" npt fitting and it doesn't seem to fit. Comparing one of the plugs to the 1/8" fitting, the plug does seem to be slightly smaller.
So it just got me thinking that maybe its a metric pipe thread or something unique to Komatsu. There are a few issues with the dozer and I'm just trying to decide if it will be worth spending a few dollars and time on, but if something major like the engine is in a bad state then it may not be worth it. Thank you for the quick reply Darin.
You can go to any auto parts store and get a little set of adapters to be used to instal an oil pressure gauge on a metric engine. A lot of the Japanese cars use a metric thread that is almost but not quite 1/8 pipe. It usually comes in a pack of 2 or 3 different adapters from the gauge maker.
Thanks Mitch! I'll phone around tomorrow and see what I can find. So far I haven't had too much luck any where else.
Thread Identification While engine oil ports should be expected to be a common standard, it's worth mentioning (since you're new to this machine) that Komatsu has it's own breed of hydraulic hose connections .. basically 30* metric as opposed to the common 37*. You might want to d/l this link http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/v/vspfiles/downloadables/thread_guide.pdf and keep it for reference. If you really get stumped you can always snoop around in the sailing/cruising/marine forums, as these smaller Komatsu engines are actually Yanmars .. I have three Komatsu's .. all 3 have Yanmar engines. Any Cat/Cummins/Perkins fans out there .. don't snicker .. Yanmar makes diesels up to 5,000 HP. For sure, I hate idiot lights. Anyone installed a standard mechanical oil pressure gage .. please post a pic. Cheers!
I picked up an adapter today from a parts store thinking I had the size nailed down to a m10x1.0 thread but still a no go. They used a thread pitch gauge on my plug and determined that it is 1.0 thread, however it is difficult to tell but it looks like it is a tapered thread. Which would make it a rare one for sure (m10x1.0 taper). I even double checked with a different 1/8" pipe thread fitting just to be 100% sure as they seem so close. Thanks Attaboy! I will bookmark this page for sure, as I've started doing with any other information I come across that may be useful in the future.
Well I got a pressure reading yesterday 65psi @ high idle (warm). I ended up making my own adapter out of a brass 1/8" npt fitting and a 1.0 thread chaser file. I had to file it down around .010" less but it threaded in and with a decent amount of Teflon tape it doesn't seem to be leaking.
Hello, I'm new to your page! I have just purchased a d21a 7 dozer and I am having a issue with machine not wanting to move when I get a load on it or after it worms up for a few minutes. I have purchased the service manual and it's saying the machine should have 844 psi but I'm only getting a reading of just over 300 on my liquid gage! Any help to point me in the right direction would be great. I have dumped all the oil and have cleaned the tranny strainer. I'm at a lose as to what I should be looking at next!
Welcome aboard matticeandsons.. Dang that is not even close to the right pressure. I have to ask though and dont' take them personally. Is the inching pedal linkage allowing the spool to be all the way out of the valve body? Is there a change in pressure readings in other speeds and or directions? Is the right oil in the tranny?
I have drained all oils and reinstalled sae 30! In tranny and beval gear case. Pulled strainer from tranny( it was clean).i will check inching pedal in morning.
missed step one reless the grease out of track adjuster/remove cover plate screw out bolt 1/2 turn put block of wood in front of track drive forward and drive grease out to get slake / remove grouser plate two make it easyer
Komatsupartsbook and other stuff Komatsupartsbook .. any experience with this Chinese vendor? I placed an order for a muffler on 6-19 and still waiting for a shipping via Fedex quote from them. I found a vendor in Japan for about twice the money ($90), but they use DHL, which totally drops the ball upon arriving at Mather (Sacramento). Got carrier rollers from vendor in Texas on EvilBay .. the flanges are a little thicker than stock .. suggest you go with 35mm bolts. TG shipping was free on those puppies. Right side was squeaky, but as it turned out, both sides were loose as a goose, but with over 28K hours I ain't complaining. The replacement 25 amp alternator now available on Amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006MWFF6O will install with some fiddling .. I used a 5/8" ID by 1" long bushing as a spacer. Note that the original stock Nikko alternator has an un-keyed tapered shaft, and the Amazon offering is a keyed straight shaft, so the pulleys are Not swapable. The new pulley is not reversible (to change offset) without either shimming, or turning off some relief, but I found that factory position was adequately aligned. The pulley looks to be machine to accept either A or B profile XL Gates belts .. an A sized XL 45" fit perfectly on my D21P-5. The "In-Cab" blade level experiment is progressing and is actually pretty cool. The sender is pretty sensitive, and does vibrate just a little, but close enough to readout the 359* to 001* I'm looking for. If you want to play around with this, get a http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DS9IH0A and a 10' Cat 5 cable. A second unit for blade Level to the Planet (along track axis) is not installed yet .. on the ToDo list Next task is a pad for a 20K gallon bladder tank on the side of the mountain, where normal visual ques (and butt level) for leveling are highly compromised. As I believe mentioned in another thread, the Battery Tender http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002DTV172 is the way to go for battery maintenance. Hope some of this stuff is helpful, especially for the new owners/members. Cheers!
Hi, Guys I am new to this forum and need some help with a Komatsu Dozer D20p-5. The serial number is #58134. I don't have the manuals for it and don't even know what year is it. I have some experience as a mechanic helper but never worked on a Dozer before. My friend purchase this dozer a year ago and never did anything with it. I borrowed to do some work at the ranch. I put new batteries and it worked fine, but after several uses I started experiencing problems turning right, then it doesn't turn either side. It goes forward and back with no problem. I have read some info on this site and I am going to remove the seat to check the steering clutch housing on both sides and make sure there is no water or oil in it. Yesterday I drain the oil on the side two drive axles. I also drain the gear fluid and that one came out with a light gray color and more watery. I check the transmission deep stick and is not even marking any oil. What type of oils do you guys recommend. Can I use SEA 30 for axles, gear and transmission or should I use different for each individual. Also how many gallons is require for this job. Thanks Rick
Here is a service manual for a D20P-5, maybe it will help: http://speedy.sh/Jwd6S/SEBM0101D00.PDF Best of luck
Is anyone familiar with Mitsubishi dozers? And if so, what's your opinion on them? I've owned Cat, Deere and Case, but don't know the track record of Mitsubishi. Any feedback is appreciated.
well Hope this works
OK it does - hello to all - have just read the entire thread over the past 2 days. I have a d20 and its been a great little machine. I just hope now I don't start to have these clutch problems I read about here. Anyway - you guys on here are great - plus I find Drays post from front to back. Seams he's the one that really hung in here. My 2 cents worth on all ya'll wanting a 3 point hookup. Google search a hitch adaptor 3 point setup. There out there. Then go back to around page 30 and see Larry's post on hooking up the hydraulics to function the thing.
weld on a 2" hitch like Larry's and away ya go
A question for those of you who have done it. I am getting ready to change out the steering clutches on a D20A5 because they are stuck(Yes I have tried the trick of pulling the stick back a bit and side stepping the clutch to see if they would break loose. However if you have any other ideas I am willing to listen.) and I can't free them. The question is, do you have any helpful hints, lessons learned or any special tools needed besides a cold drink every now and then? If you have pictures of your tear down/rebuild that would be great and probably help others besides me. When I do this I will try and remember to take pictures also to share. Thanks in advance.
John, I changed out both of the clutches in my D21P-6. It wasn't a complicated job just a good bit of work. I can give you a few tips that may help. Get yourself a 17mm gear wrench with the flex head. It make removing the clutch inner and outer bolts a lot easier. You'll need a good bottle jack to rotate the tracks and I used a small chain hoist to assist in lifting the clutches out of the clutch bay. The weigh about 50lbs. Also after removing the seat and floor pans I pressure washed everything, it makes it a lot easier to work. I have quit a few pictures I can send you if you like. I try and post a few here if I can figure it out LOL. Email me if you want me to send the pictures to you direct. [email protected] PS I can send you a copy of the shop manual pages for the clutch R&R if you like.
VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Before you take anything else apart...... 1) Pull the bottom skid plate under the clutch housing (Helps if you can drive it up on a couple of railroad ties for more working room.) 2) remove the oil strainer from the wet clutch housing 3) clean the strainer 4) remove the cover plate from the bottom the the wet clutch housing and clean out any gunk you may be able to see in there. 5) refill the the wet clutch housing with clean oil. Here's why The steering clutches are controlled by hydraulic pressure from the steering clutch pump which is on the rear of the wet clutch housing. They require about 250 lbs of pressure to operate. If the pump is starved for oil because of a plugged strainer you will not have oil pressure to operate the clutches and it will act like the clutches are stuck. Why do I know this? because i did exactly what you are about to do and after a total rebuild of steering brakes and clutches I still had the same problem. No release. Cleaned the strainer and away she went. in so many words. If you have a hydraulic pressure gauge you can check you hydraulic clutch release pressure at ports on the valve blocks on top of the transmission. takes a 5/16 6 point deep socket. This is not to say that the steering clutches and brakes don't need rebuilding, just to save yourself a sh#@$load of time before you start tearing it apart, first check your steering pump oil pressure. Also get a copy of the shop manual it will be money well spent. Good description of basic operation on pages 21-2 and 21-3
Just as an adendum here is a pic out the website for komatsu parts Here is a page out of the Komatsu parts book website showing the strainer and cover plate off the back of the main clutch case. Worst problem I had was the heads had rusted away so I had to weld nuts onto the stubs so I could back them out.
Thank you Doug and Oldhousehugger. This is one of the reasons I love this thread. I want all of the advise like this I can get. If you notice my two addresses I am in one and the dozer is in the other 600 miles away so for some strange reason I like to have as much in the way of tools or supplies as I can before going there. Hopefully I will be up there this coming weekend and try cleaning the screen. If it doesn't it looks like a set of gear wenches are in my future. Doug were there any tricks to disassembly and or putting it back together? I see the vice grips in one of your pictures and seem to remember somewhere in this thread about people having fun getting the brake bands reattached. I y'all or anyone else has some tips they would be greatly appreciated.
John here are a few pages from the Komatsu shop manual hope they help. I'll send them to your email. If you have any questions feel free to email me. I tried to attach the pages here but, no go.
A couple more pictures of my clutch r&r.
I forget what I have put up here over the years but here is some info on the home made pressure check rig I put together from WW Grainger parts. The British thread part was special order. Check the hydraulic pressure at relief valve before condemning steering clutches. Pipe plugs giving access to various areas of the steering hydraulic system are 1/8-28 BSPT (British Standard Pipe Thread). You will need an 8mm or 5/16 12 point socket to loosen the plugs. (I was able to put together a useable pressure tester for under 60 dollars using fittings from WW Grainger. It consisted of a 1/8 MBSPT to a 1/8FNPT adaptor, then a 1/8MNPT to a 1/4FNPT adaptor, then a 24 inch (would have been better getting a 48 inch hose) section of ¼” hydraulic hose with 1/4MNPT on both ends, then to a double 1/4FNPT coupling then to a 13 dollar pressure gage good to 600 psi. ) If pressure is to low the steering booster cylinders cannot operate the release levers and you will get no steering. The manual says that with the engine at 2400 rpm there must be 15 kg/cm2 or about 213 psi to the booster cylinder to move the release yoke to disengage the clutch. The pressure at idle is 8 kg/cm2 or about 113 psi. If there is no pressure then before you take the brakes and clutches apart, pull the belly pan (6-22mm bolts) and then drain the gallon or so of 15w-40 oil out of the bell housing. If you are slick you can catch the oil in a bucket when you pull the cap off the filter strainer in the bottom of the bell-housing. When I pulled the strainer out of mine I was amazed that any oil at all could get through to the pump. It also explained why I had a howling noise out of the middle of the machine, which vanished after I cleaned the strainer out. I immediately regained control of the steering clutches after cleaning the strainer and replacing the oil with new oil.
Fits those little plugs perfectly .. http://www.amazon.com/Grey-Pneumatic-1211P-11-Piece-Socket/dp/B002SWGG38
Doug and Oldhouse hugger unfortunately I wasn't able to work on the dozer last weekend. However I will be back up there in a few weekends and will have a week to clean the screen and if that doesn't work go elbow deep into tearing out the clutches. I will make sure I have one of the 17mm GearWrenches with the flex head. I have a number of those wrenches already that I carry my vehicles but not any with the flex head. A NEW TOOL! Yea! Clearly it really doesn't take much to make me happy. Once I get it fixed I am going to have fun working on one of my roads. Hopefully this won't take too long to fix whatever the problem is. This dozer is one of the handiest pieces of equipment I have seen for a same farm area. Again thanks for your info and help and if you can think of anything else that might help please feel free to share. I really hate learning things others already know how to do. I do plan on taking pictures of everything I do to share for later.
Been without internet for a couple years; but need some help now. My D21 was running fine the last time it was used. It set for 2 or 3 months. Then wouldn't start. We can push fuel through everything to the injector pump with the hand primer. Don't have pressure out of pump. Is there anything else we need to check before removing pump. Hand primer does leak around the plunger. I'm guessing there is a pick up pump at the bottom of the primer. Do I need to look at it first? Thanks.
First to look at is the fuel drain spigot .. to drain any water in the fuel. The actual fuel outlet has a ring inside the tank that prevents you drawing from fuel in your tank below about one inch .. when the machine is at level. In any event, you won't know until you open the spigot and see what comes out. I have 3 Komatsu's among 7 diesels and they don't run worth a darn on water. If you haven't done the drain exercise in a while, you may have to fiddle around with a piece of bailing wire to get it unplugged .. all too common. In California, our off-road diesel (no road tax) is red .. using a water soluble dye. Also, I use the appropriate Sta-Bil additive. Next up is your fuel filter .. just change it out .. I always pre-charge filters with clean diesel .. saves engine cranking or primer-pump strokes to git'r primed. 2 or 3 months is barely a heartbeat for these Yanmar engines, so I suspect bad fuel to be the culprit. I hope that this is a simple solution that proves successful. And with Winter coming up, I'll echo the previous recommendation for installing one of these .. http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-022-0158-1-Waterproof-Charger/dp/B002DTV172 which I mounted under the seat .. status LED's facing to the front .. with some of this http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-414-DC-Extreme-Mounting/dp/B009NP1JQC .. a no-drilling mounting solution D21p-5 w/28k+ hrs. Cheers!
Matticeandsons I'm currently faced with the same problem on the same machine page 40-20 in the manual shows the pump pressure should be 363psi but as you stated page 20-20 calls for 856psi. My pump puts out 360psi we have replaced all springs and made sure all shims are correct also checked steering clutches screen and all new fluids how you found a solution to this problem any help would be apreciated
I'm currently faced with the same problem on the same machine page 40-20 in the manual shows the pump pressure should be 363psi but as you stated page 20-20 calls for 856psi. My pump puts out 360psi we have replaced all springs and made sure all shims are correct also checked steering clutches screen and all new fluids how you found a solution to this problem any help would be apreciated
attaboy Already checked all that. Need to know about the priming plunger. What is in there and how does it work? Is there an impeller inside that is cranked when the engine is turning? Thanks.
Danny, as I recall, you turn the plunger counter-clockwise until the plunger pops out a couple of inches. Then you cycle the plunger in .. it has a spring return. You'll save a lot of thumb wear if you pre-charge a new filter with clean diesel, and then leave the filter cracked open a just tiny bit to allow air to escape, while you are priming. Once you see that air has been purged, then tighten the new filter, and turn the priming plunger handle clockwise while fully depressed and thread in until it's fully home. The plunger shaft may leak a little while priming .. not to worry .. any leakage should stop once the plunger is again nested into it's stored position. You could also break open the banjo at the injection pump and purge if you are really low on battery, but normally that's not necessary. The "as I recall" preface is due to my having a several diesel tractors here, and I just did the D21 a few months ago. The above procedure is most common, and for diesel gensets as well.
Let me ask my question a different way. I understand how the priming plunger works. Is there something called a pickup pump incorporated as part of the primer?
Just so you don’t walk down the path I’ve been on, please do this. Remove the banjo fitting at the inlet side of your primer pump (underneath). Inside of it you will find a fine screen which will probably be full of trash. I read about this from a guy over on the Komatsu excavator forum. Clean out the trash. Go to an auto parts store and buy any replacement for a Beck Arnley 043-0645 fuel strainer. They were used on 1982 thru 1992 Mercedes diesels. The strainer costs somewhere around 3 dollars. Any brand will do but I like the ones which are clear plastic. I mounted mine close to the steel elbow that comes out of the fuel tank so you can see if its clogged up yet and replace if needed. I leave the rear shield off my machine because it’s just in the way. Do not get one of the Mr. Gasket inline glass filters because they are for gasoline and have a much to fine filter screen and will clog almost instantly from trash in diesel. Yes I tried that and learned the hard way. Once you have the fuel strainer installed at the tank end let fuel run thru the line to make sure no more trash is going to stop up the screen at the pump. Once you have clear flow, reinstall the fuel line to the banjo and then try priming the injector pump. I’ll bet it helps. John
D21a7 transmission not pulling Im currently faced with the same problem on the same machine page 40-20 in the manual shows the pump pressure should be 363psi but as you stated page 20-20 calls for 856psi. My pump puts out 360psi we have replaced all springs and made sure all shims are correct also checked steering clutches screen and all new fluids have you found a solution to this problem any help would be apreciated
I don't have the manual in front of me, but perhaps your output pressure is within spec, and the 865 is the minimum pounds of pressure from your steering cylinder to disengage the clutch pack assembly. As example, a 2" diameter cylinder with 363psi coming in would give you 1,140 pounds of pressure to disengage your steering clutch. Maybe that is the source of discrepancy. Naturally, we all check our steering clutches before re-installing them .. right? You could I guess multiply the number of springs times spring rate times travel, but that just makes my head spin. If they've got "PSI" for both specs, it just may be a typo from translation .. perhaps should have been "Pounds of Force" for the 865, and not PSI.
I’d like to point out a very important distinction between the D20 and D21. Although both machines use hydraulic pressure to actuate the steering clutch servo cylinders the D20 gets its pressure from a pump in the oil cooled wet clutch. It operates at a much lower pressure than the D21. The D21 has an automatic transmission with built in hydraulic pump. The operating pressures for the D21 with the pump in the transmission are much higher than the D20. The table is on the 2nd and 3rd page of section 22 POWER TRAIN TESTING AND ADJUSTING. As far as steering clutch slippage there are a number of reasons you may have lost power. Is there oil or water or rust in the clutch pack? Are the inner or outer drum splines so worn as to interfere with clutch plate movement? Are the inner or outer pressure surfaces of the drums worn beyond spec? Have you measured the thickness of your clutch plates and do they all stack up to what is required. The clutches don’t have much extra material on them. Have you made the adjustment to the clutch release arms to what the manual recommends? Are you sure it’s the steering clutches slipping and not the transmission?
Perhaps I’m the only one who bought a D20 that had been used in salt water so that the track frames and tensioners were rusted to all get out. Perhaps I’m the only person who has tried to get track tensioners repaired after the seals blew from rust pitting. Perhaps I’m the only one who found busted springs in my track tensioner. What I can tell yall is that it is a very costly fix. I was able to get the rusty tensioner yoke rod cut off and replaced by a hydraulic repair shop but the spring and cylinder I had to buy new aftermarket. Komatsu prices were astronomical. The big retainer nut at the back of the tensioner cylinder had to be cut off due to rust. The new one from the dealer cost over 100 dollars. I love the dozer when it’s working but buying parts is the pits. I wish I knew of more aftermarket vendors for the small parts.
The problem with the transmission not pulling came about all at once the dozer just stopped pulling have since put all new fluids checked screens ,all new springs in valve body , new clutches on both sides everything is now within spec pump pressure reads correct I believe now thanks attaboy that is probably correct on the discrepancies between the two specs. Now the dozer will pull usually left side (sometimes both) but less than 2 mins later it stops pulling regardless of what speed it's in. I am guessing the valve body has a Crack any insight is apreciated
Check the listings Kent Baugh has for the D20/D21's on Machinery Trader. Last I checked he had about two dozen D20/D21's dismantled for parts and those bottom parts are probably common to many years/models. I've ordered several times from him, and while I hate to spend $300 for a new muffler .. it is what it is. They are $40 from China or $90 from Japan, but neither transaction came to fruition.* For large hardware, like the nut, consider just having one made. I was restoring the rear steering cylinder system on my 1950 Austin-Western Super 88H and had both cylinder end pins made for $60, with nuts. My ride here is an '03 Jag and the lower radiator hose was $170 .. ridiculous yes, but it's a premium ride. These little dozers are in that class as well I think, as mine is 30 years old this year with over 28K hours. I figure my grandson will never need to replace my new $300 muffler by the time he's my age .. he just turned 3-1/2. I feel your pain as to parts pricing .. just consider it an investment .. grin and bear it. You'll feel a little better if you check what it would cost you to rent a comparable machine for a week. Cheers! *The $40 was Chinese vendor Komatsupartsbook .. aka vapor-parts, and the $90 Japanese vendor wanted $168 for shipping.
I'd definitely resolve that issue before you burn/score/glaze your new clutch packs. Steering is accomplished in two stages. First stage is valving fluid into the steering cylinder to open the clutch pack, and the second stage is engaging the brake band. If you already know this .. no harm done, but better to err on the side of caution. You should have some clearance (free-play) between the mechanical lever that engages the steering cylinder valve .. I forget but 1-3mm or so. Without that clearance, you may have constant pressure trying to open your clutch pack .. like riding the clutch when daddy was teaching you how to drive a stick at 13. If your valve body has a leak, it's (the oil) gotta go somewhere. But a leak would make clutch pack opening more difficult .. loosing pressure to the cylinder. You should be able to feel the transition from cylinder engagement to brake while pulling back the steering levers, with the engine off. Also check that your inching/clutch pedal has sufficient free-play clearance. The results from steering lever transition should be symmetrical with both levers as well .. mine's off almost an inch .. waiting on some RoundToit's from Amazon. When clutches slip, they heat up, and fade .. sounds like the 2 minute phenomenon you describe. Good luck with that amigo.
Have Mitsubishi BD2F I need to change the seals in the track tensioner cylinder What is the best way to remove the cylinder? I have the seals. Located in Louisiana
Need help in finding out what year my dozer is? Its a D21P with the powershift transmission. Pyramiad tracks and 6 way blade.
Need for parts ............anyone?
Hello Spark.... Dont' remove the cylinder but just remove the front idler by removing the tracks and then you can clean everything up an dreplace the seals. Things may be a bit rusty down there but should be a pretty decent job..
Kensmith69 I need your serial number to run for the year built...
Thanks for the info. Will try soon.
can anyone provide a price for a new d21a8 and p8 thanks adam
Here is a used one for $75K, but a long ways to Australia http://www.machinerytrader.com/listingsdetail/detail.aspx?OHID=10942599 Komatsu has a huge presence in Australia for the big stuff, but maybe inquire in your neighborhood anyway. Good luck ..
I have a komatsu D20-P6 ... I have owned it for several years, it has been lightly used during that time. - I ran the machine yesterday here on my farm... and it started out working fine. But after a bit I noticed that the Left track was not "driving hard"... it does have a little bit of drive to it.... but if any load at all is applied... it does not drive. The right track is driving nice and hard..... it acts as though the clutch is slipping on that side. - It was dark when I finished up, so didn't have much of a chance to look at it..... not trying to be too lazy here... (well maybe a bit)... I hope to get down and look at it in the daylight this afternoon. I was just hoping for some good pointers from some that had more experience..... hoping for an easier fix than having to tear into the clutch.
Clutch linkage maybe?That would be easy.Ron G
Pull the drain plug from under the steering clutch section, these machines are supposed to have dry clutches and brakes. If you get oil, you'll have to fix the leaking seal and replace the clutch.
I have a D20PL-6. I know those are the numbers and letters, but not neccessarily in that order. One of the hydraulic hoses that goes to the 6way blade, the cylinder on the left side(sitting on the dozer), which pushes the blade out, has a hose that got cut in two. The other thing that is of immediate importance is that the clutch pedal is stuck is stuck to the floor. You push it maybe an inch and it will engage the NST(seemingly) and then after glowplug warming the engine will start. I have two batteries to make up 24v- one is a 1000ca group 61 and one is a 600ca battery to fit a Honda or small tractor like a Satoh- tight fit, but it cranks it at 30*. I'm afraid if I try to pry up the clutch pedal, I'll break something, I did that on my John Deere 420c accidentally when I first go it. Is it safe to pry on the pedal with anything more substantial than your hand and arm strength ? I'm fairly strong and I could not not pull it up. Is the hydraulic hose being cut and allowing air into the system related ? Finally, can anyone tell me what size hose these used ? NPT or JIC, and is it 1/2 or 3/8 ? Thanks so much
Does anyone know what HP a D21P might be?
Hi Guys and gals I've been a long time lurker here and have got lots of good info here. I've got a D-20 A-6 and I love this machine. I've had some hard starting issues and shut it down to do all the maintenance and get it back to starting easy again. So far I replaced the glow plug gauge and checked the plugs 3 out of 4 tested bad. My question is does anybody have a source for the glow plugs. So far I've gotten $100 a piece and I'm hoping someone knows where to get them cheaper. Please let me know I really need the machine back up.
40hp
Can anyone out there tell me where to buy a sleeve kit for d20p-5 with 4d94-2 engine. Been all over the net and keeps sending me over sea
Exhaust Pipe Liner? In the muffler replacement procedure, I have found within the Exhaust Pipe Tube (vertical tailpipe) a liner material akin to rock-wool or fiberglass mat, which was not very difficult to slip out, the tube being frozen in place .. the Hood off the tractor. I do not see a separate part number for this material, so I'm wondering is this is some previous owner's DIY installation? This also begs the question, what is supposed to seal the muffler outlet, to the bottom of the exhaust tube, which is about 2-1/4" larger in diameter than the muffler outlet tube? Komatsu has done a superlative job in isolating normal engine vibration from the tractor, so obviously there has to be some non-rigid connectivity between the muffler and the hood, so what is supposed to be used to fill this inch wide void around the muffler outlet? On a side note, I was doing some very heroic muffler patching of little holes, and then reached up and felt that there was ZERO muffler exhaust tube .. just a big hole. I figured just 30 years of corrosion from the open exhaust tube pipe allowing rain to simply run down inside. So with that I got a 2-1/2" Rain Cap to install, but with the open void I'd still have the Smoky Engine Syndrome noticeable briefly during startup, and the new cap would not be getting the benefit of the full exhaust flow. I invite your comments, experience, and solutions to this rather unusual engine exhaust design, and Happy Holidays .. Safe Journey! Drawing including 6144-11-5760 http://komatsupartsbook.com/#?k=!0!2!1116!678!1!8
I need tours specs for crank,and rods 4d95s w-1
I need tourqe for main cap and rod cap bolts please
A Google search will give you the full Factory Service manual for $9.95 on Tradebit. I have tried buying manuals, scanning them, and then offering them for just enough to recoupe my money. I've always sent manual first and then if it helped, please pay $1 or $5(in the case of a $500 manual that was out of print and the company dissolved). No one ever paid. Pay the $10 USD and get the manual. http://lmgtfy.com/?q=komatsu+d20+d21+manual+tradebit
I have followed your advice on removing the steering clutch pack from my d20a-6 . It will rotate in the flanges But will not compress enough to be removed.I can not force it back even enough to clear one side let alone both. After two days of hammering I am at a loss. Any help I would be thankful .
This is Spark, you have me mixed up with someone else as I don't know about a clutch pack on your equipment
Sorry to hear of your troubles. Here are a couple things.. take a large wedge and drive the inner drum inside the out drum rotating it in 180 degrees to do it evenly. WATCH it because they will come back in great force. I don't recommend doing the chisel wedge thing because it is dangerous.. I had one chisel fly back and actually went into my overhead door. YIKES>>> After that I cut the drums.. Instead of doing this I would cut the outer drum apart in sections to get everything out so you can get it back to work. No worries I have all of this in stock.. Contact me if you have any other questions or need anything.
I don't think I am quite ready to start cutting up good parts yet , am retired and labor is the cheapest Thing I have.
I understand.. You see sometimes the clutches get stuck in the "wrong" grooves of the drum where the clutch teeth wear into it and its almost impossible to move the steel on steel with the chisel... BUT I can't blame you for trying. Take care and good luck
keep in mind they're supposed to come apart.The way Darin explained it is the way I did mine. And a little side note if its that hard to get apart,Then everything inside is probable trash. (Just a thought)
There are books available for most machines. Buy them. Some are expensive, but worth it. I'd avoid engine oil in hydraulics.
Komatsu specifies 15W-40 in hydraulics
I thought Komatsu 21s used straight 10w oil in the hydraulics? Never herd of the 15w40 before?
Need help Hello everyone got problems with my komatsu d20a-6 it has been sitting all winter got it out today for first time everything was going great till all the sudden right track would lock up and stall engine going forward I could catch it before it killed engine put it in reverse worked fine then it would go forward fine for a while then the left side started doing same thing forward and reverse as long as I went opposite way it locked a few feet it would work fine for a while it seemed to lock up more under load so I'm at a lost is it steering clutches brakes or what any input would be greatly appreciated dozed is kept inside and was also wondering were exactly is the drain plug for the steering clutch housing
Oh man.. First thing i would do is back off the brake band clearance with the adjusting nut in the back of the machine behind the little caps. Also if you stored the unit with the parking brake applied the linkage may be froze and needs lube.. Check the be sure the brake actuator arm is moving in the released position. I've actually drilled and tapped the bearing housing with the arm goes through to keep those little bearings in there free.. You could spray with penetrating fluid but it won't last too long without either taking apart and cleaning unless you drill and tap for grease fitting.. Good luck and keep us posted..
Will check brake linkage and adjustment as you said this weekend I hope that fixes it as far as parking break it wasn't applied but will let you know what I find this weekend
Hi, Has anyone installed a backhoe attachment to they're D20 or 21? If so, can you post some photos? Thanks for the info.
I have a d21a7 and am having starter problems. The solenoid is bad but it will not separate from starter. Do I have .to remove starter to get it off
I don't know about that, but my d21a7 solenoid acted up and I "whacked" it real good and hasn't acted up since.
Hello, my father just bought a d21p dozer and I was looking to find a manual for it. The problem is it looks like the plate with the serial number is gone. I found a series of numbers on the left rear of the dozer, D205-48402. Does this have anything to do with the serial number? I'm trying to figure out the year so I can order the manual. Thanks
I'm not sure if the paint will help indicate the year but I've added this crummy picture I took. If anyone could help that'd be great. Thank you
Three point hitch retrofit There are several kits out there for adding three point hitches to old tractors: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-POINT-KUB...627744?hash=item3d16dd9e20:g:Xo4AAOxyYANTYDa7 even one with hydraulic lift: http://www.steinertractor.com/IHS30093-Point-Hitch-Kit
transmission shifting problems I have a Kamatsu D20P I shifted the transmission into reverse but it stayed in a forward gear and won't shift back out. It is stuck in this gear and won't shift at all. Any ideas on how to get it back into regular shifting patterns. I pulled the top of the transmission shifting stick out and can see down into the transmission where the shifting rod goes but can't get anything to move.
great information Thanks new D21p-7 owner here so forgive me but I have read through these posts and I need to clean transmission screen but can NOT find it there is a small door in belly where you drain transmission is it in there somewhere
thought it was just bad clutches hello everyone, I just bought a D21-7E. This is my first post, hoping yall can help me. I bought this dozer and after a few hours of running the right side started making some clicking noises and started to not disengage and would bog the engine down when trying to stear right. I also locked up occasionally but it stopped doing that after a few days of running it so I thought maybe the clutches had rust. Well in about 15 minutes time the right side went from slipping a little while pushing to nothing on the the right side. It would just click loudly. I thought the clutches where gone so I ordered clutches and brake band and started tearing everything down yesterday. When I get all the bolts off both sides I notice the flange on the outside that the drum bolts to has a lot of play in it. I havnt lifted the clutch assembly out but I'm thinking I've got more problems than just the clutches being bad. Any ideas?
Got grease insert by the spring pump grease in it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Good evening. In the process of replacing clutches on a 20P-6. I am trying to determine if I need to adjust the position of the stud that comes out of the top of yoke that the booster cylinder piston presses against to release the clutches. I have read that it needs to be 121mm from the center line of the bevel gear case. If that is correct is that based on the location of the yoke being pressed against the clutch pack before you measure or the yoke positioned as far towards the bevel gear case? Mine has slack, not sure if that is based on wear of the clutches or not. If this stud is too far one way or the other the clutch will not work properly. Thank for the replies in advance.
D20-a5 This thread is the best. I've read most of it, my problem is with the cutting edge. I've order through the dealer, but it has been almost a month. So I'm looking for another option. Anybody have a recommendation for getting a new edge and end bits?
Hello I have a d21p-6 and it has sat sometime and now I'm getting it going. Started great but when I pull the left lever the track is froze and it kills the dozer. The right track will spin the dozer in circles. I am new to working on these and don't have much experience. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated and pictures would be even better so I can get it moving. Thanks
The brake is locked up on that side. In the back of the machine below the batterys you should see covers left and right with 2 bolts in them. Take the cover off and back the 17mm bolt out a few turns and maybe give the end of the socket extension a couple of whacks to see if you can break it free. Its a band around the drum. They will lock up sometimes after just sitting a few days after working the machine. Under the seat you should make sure the arm that the break pedal is connected to is free and rotates. Take the seat out and when you push on the brake pedal follow the linkage till it ends on either side in the back. You should see it rotating the 2 arms. Maybe the arm is stuck. The pedal operates the same brakes as the steering arms. Good luck.
Hello, I have a D21A-5 with steering brake issues (left). Clutches seem to work fine, left steering brake will not engage going forward but does in reverse. If I adjust it up it just drags the whole time. I think it might be a broken spring. I have the shop manual but it does not describe the process of removing the brake (or clutch). Is there a better manual or does anyone have documentation on removing the steering brake? Thanks! Jeff
Thanks got it working. Seems to be leaking done oil on the right side clutch so I guess that's my next project.
I just joined today after I read through the whole 145 pages of this thread. Man, this is fantastic information. I just bought a 1985 D20A-6 s/n 61556. Currently doing repairs, hope to get it going soon. Will post pictures when I can. Mine is painted "pea green" was previously owned by a landscaping company and all their equipment was "pea green". Oh well can't change that.
Would anyone know where I can get a replacement key? It's a round key and I'm not having any luck finding one.
I was able to have a key made at a local safe and lock.
Additional info It looks like there are two shop manuals? The one I have is 223 pages and is titled "Shop Manual", the other is listed as a "Service Manual" and is 522 pages? Does anyone know if that is the one I need from SSB or am I going the wrong direction? Apparently the section I need is 23
Jeff, If you want you can give me a call and I can tell you what you need to do. I just went thru it and with the help of this site and some other folks like Kent Baugh I got thru it a lot easier than what it would have taken just following the manual. Paul 832-221-7358.
D20A-6 Starter Solenoid Hello, this will be my first post of a question. Can anyone give me a replacement part number for the Starter Solenoid for my D20A-6. The Komatsu number is 47100-3590. I'm looking for an Echlin or Delco number that I can get at my local NAPA store, hopefully. Of course it will have to be 24V. Thank you.
Thanks
Could anyone send me an exploded diagram of the track tensioner. I've got a d21-p and all the grease is coming out the front of the tensioner.
Here is a link to an aftermarket solenoid, perhaps your local Napa can cross it further: https://www.amazon.com/STARTER-SOLENOID-0-47100-3590-0-47100-3592-0-47100-4360/dp/B008XBBZ3O Good luck.
D21P-6 Right Track Locked Up Great information on this site. Learn more about these small dozers every time I read the forums. Now for my newest problem. Dozer set up for over a year. Left track pulls but the right one is locked up. Dozer spins in a circle when running. I have new clutches and brake bands. If the track needs to turn to remove clutch pack bolts how can I remove them if track won't turn? Any advice would be greatly appreciated
To remove the flange bolts you will just need to get the machine off the ground and use a floor jack to rotate either side and you may need to block the track to keep it from moving when you are wrenching. Good luck and contact me further if you need anything..
You have to repack your cylinder with new piston packings (its inside your cylinder that has to come out) and then wiper seal.. Take the front idler out (after removing track) and put a block of wood in front of the opening.. Then remove the grease valve (not just the zerk) and try blowing air in it.. If the piston doesn't blow out then you will have to use a tube of grease and just keep pumping it until it comes out. I have most parts in stock for anyone out there..
I can get it off the ground but I don't think it will rotate with a jack. It seems to be locked up. Thanks for the reply
Oh.... When someone says it wont' turn there are 2 ways I can take that... Wont turn under it's own power (steering clutches not grabbing) or it locked up.. Does it bog the motor down when it's NOT turning? The only way it won't rotate with a jack is if the final drive or drive train has failed... Good luck and keep us posted..
It doesn't turn under its own power. It just goes in a circle. I will tear in to it to replace clutches and go from there. Thanks for your help
Hello dozer folks, Been a while since I looked around here. I need new/replacement armrest pads for my D21. anyone have a parts shop/listing they might recommend. Thanks, Mike Kelly
Probably more cost effective to build them.
May have messed up Folks I have a grey market D21P-7 that was low on hydraulic fluid. Off to Tractor Supply and purchased ISO 46 Hydraulic Oil and in it went. Since trouble shooting a steering issue I see in the repair manual it indicates ENGINE OIL for the hydraulic tank. I have destroyed something and causing the steering issue? Should I drain the hydraulic fluid and replace it with the recommended oil? I am by no means a mechanic but have turned wrenches on "stuff". But this dozer scares me with all the tubing and assorted fluids. I'm not cheap, just like to give it a shot first myself. After I screw it up a mechanic can make a good wage off of me. Sherman
Probation Also, how do I get off of probation? Just wondering.... Sherman
Sherman I doubt that you ruined any thing. But I would put the proper fluid in there. My Dresser calls for either 10 Wt motor oil or 10 Wt HyTran type tractor fluid. Make sure you get the right viscosity what ever fluid you use. Check to see that 46 hydraulic oil isn't to heavy for your D21P-7. I think you need to make 5 posts to get off probation. There is a post that explains it.
Thanks G-Man. I'll post a bit more and see if I can get my sentence dismissed..
That dozer uses 30wt motor oil throughout, no hitran fluid. I have installed clutches and brakes in my p-6.
The clutch and brake assm is dry, so over time the metal clutch plates can rust, swell and prevent the clutch from releasing. The larger models like D31, has the clutch and brakes running in oil. I helped a friend replace those assemblies in his.
Sherman, email me at [email protected] If you want to, I can share lots of info on these d21's.
cblank thanks for the help. I thru out the 10 Wt I use to stress proper viscosity is important. Glad you had the right info for him. gg
Shermans dozer is a -7 and has joy stick direction control, mine is a -6 and has the 2 handles in the dash for stearing, so I refered Sherman to an expert, Darren Michell, for advise on the oil. DMMachinery
Well guys I believe its time to turn wrenches. I have tried all the of the suggested remedies and I'm in the same position as I started. I'll be clearing the last project from the shop (1995 Ford f-250 with brakes and door hinges). 50 pounds of floor sweep (cat litter) and the dozer gets it's place inside. I'll try to post pictures of the process. Oh, I'll be changing the hydro oil to equipment specs. Further suggestion and tips are always welcome.
Today I started tearing into my dozer. Think its time to call the pros. Not that I'm scared, just unsure of the required steps to get to the brakes and/or clutches. I can't make any sense out of the layout. So a question, can I just take the bolts off the brake/clutch covers with out doing any damage? Once the cover is off will it appear to make more sense? I can post pictures if it will help. Thanks in advance.
Ok I have ventured further. Found the bracket in the photo (right side actually) was stuck forward. Left side moved by hand. Tapped the right one a bit and now both move freely. Do you think this may have corrected my turning issue. It's a blitch to put everything together if there is more I need to check.
I have to pull the right steering clutch out of a D20-6 tomorrow. Clutch will not disengage but has supply pressure.
Well I freed it up. Brake lever moves but does not engage the brake. Guess I'll tear into it and see what it looks like. It actually went together faster that it came apart. Basically I'm at square one again. Vetech63 can you post some pictures as you go along. I'm not sure rather mine is a brake issue or a clutch issue. Mine moves forward and reverse and will only turn left. Engine does not bog down forward, reverse or turning.
Ok I have tore down. This is the brake drum I think the clutches are stuck because of the slop in the arm to the left. Again, I'm open to suggestions.
Also, the brake adjustment screw (the 17mm under the back cover) is stuck like chuck. Would it damage anything to put some heat to this so I can get it freed up? With new brake shoes I'll need to back that adjustment back quite a bit. Also the tie wrap is just to hold stuff in place. It will be replace with the proper size cotter pin.
Got the clutches and brake drum out. Quick bit of information to the next rookie, take the bolts out of the left side first then the right side. If you remove the right side first you'll be able to spin the drum to get to the clutch side bolts. Now to find the clutch plates and brake shoe/band. Suggestions welcome.
Starter solenoid for my D20A-6 Thank you dblaneyfan for the information. I will take this to NAPA and see what they can find.
glow plugs I need help finding glow plugs or glow plug part number for my d20a-5 serial number 56817. If anyone could help it would be greatly appreciated.
It's all back together and running. No idea how I got the brakes hooked up. After about two hours of fooling with it, it just dropped in place. I checked it with endoscopy camera, and everything fit as designed. Now it turns left and right. I want to thank everyone for their help and assistance.
It might be possible to use a Magnatrac hitch and PTO: http://struckcorp.com/attachments/rh65-three-point-rear-hitch-kit-category-1/ http://struckcorp.com/attachments/pto70-power-takeoff-kit/ The MH8000 dozer goes up to 35 HP, almost what the D21has.
It might be possible to use a Magnatrac hitch and PTO: http://struckcorp.com/attachments/rh65-three-point-rear-hitch-kit-category-1/ http://struckcorp.com/attachments/pto70-power-takeoff-kit/ The MH8000 dozer goes up to 35 HP, almost what the D21has.
I have a D20P-7 It started smoking blue really bad. It has gotten worse. A lot of blowby It has a 4D95S-1 engine which is built by Yanmar. Any ideas where to get a rebuild kit? I called a Yanmar Distributor they claimed if they have the Komatsu part#s converted to Yanmar they can provide it. Any other ideas?
Partsman11, I'd recommend you call Darin at DM Machinery. He is an expert on these machines and he should be able to get your parts. His website is www.dmmsales.com .
Thank you ! I just sent him a message
I am in need of help. I bought a d20p-7a and the guy claims that the steering clutches were replaced. it steers fine, but when you drop the blade the left track wont spin. the steering linkages look fine. The drain plugs were previously removed and have some oil coming out indicating a seal is leaking. I know that the clutch might be bad, but could it possibly be something else? I was reading on hear that if the hydraulic strainer is plugged up , that might cause a track to not move when a load is on the dozer? Any and all help is greatly appreciated!!!
Am I seeing this right ? Hydraulic fluids for a D21 6A is standard motor oil ? Or is sae 10w the part # for the hydro fluids ? Thanks. John
I have a d21 A6 , do you know what type of hydraulic fluid I need to put in it ? Thanks john
I'm not home for another few weeks, is there anyone out there that can tell me if a D20A-6 has a "Power beyond port" on the hydraulic control valve? Thanks in advance
I dont think they have the power beyond port, somewhere in this thread someone put a t inline to put a set of rear remotes on his dozer.
Paul, I am sorry it took me so long to respond, if you are still up for it I will call! Thank You! Jeff
Presumably you have already fixed your problem. But if not here are a few pointers. 1) if the strainer gets plugged up in the main clutch / steering clutch hydraulic pump in the bottom of the wet clutch housing, the pump will starve of oil and you cannot release steering clutches for lack of pressure. This will make it impossible to release the steering clutches. Pull the belly pan and check your clutch oil pump strainer. 2) if your steering clutch is slipping it is either worn out or the oil has greased it and it needs fixing. There are after market suppliers of friction plates and clutch plates out there. Get the specs on the wear tolerances and check what you've got. There is very little travel in that clutch pack between engaged and disengaged. Also you need to properly adjust the clutch release arm where it contacts the hydraulic piston. I don't have the specs handy but someone will have the manual and can look it up for you. 3) make sure you have adjusted your linkages properly. These machines get a lot of wear and vibration and they are worn half out when we get them. A 1/2 inch in or out can make a huge difference in linkage travel somewhere else. Set them by the book. 4) when I did my steering brakes the roller bearing in the side of the left brake cover was shot and the bell crank was wobbling around and obviously not working as designed. I replaced the bearing and the linkage worked way better.
40hp
Been a couple of years sense I been able to log on I got me 1990 D20p serial # 672157, the report I got on the under carriage is Have pins/bushings been turned? Yes XNo Track Pitch 60% Grousers - Shoes 70% Idlers 60% Carrier Rollers 60% Track Rollers 60% Sprockets 60% So at what point of wear would one consider starting to replace idlers, carrier rollers, track rolers, sprockets ect
I cannot answer your question as I am looking into buying a D20-6 from a friend of mine very soon,,, just wanted to say, THANK YOU for your service and I used to live very close to where the picture you have on your signature. I lived at D-1 Shield on the Iraqi Olympic training grounds over by the soccer fields just a couple of blocks from the Swords of Victory in your picture. I was working for the D.O.D. as a electrical inspector in 2009. So thank you for your service!!!! Stay safe!! Tommy
I remember the D sites, I was a contractor over there from 05 to the end of 08, I remember one of the D sites got hit and all the ammo started going off, the whole camp was just about destroyed, lots of UXOs all over the place., I'm down in Orange Grove Tx now just about 40 miles west of Corpus Christi, will put some photos up when the d20 gets here
Glad you made it home safe and look forward to the pictures! When I get mine bought I will post some of mine too. ( my buddy is still using it to clear some stuff,, should have it by Christmas) I'm not far from you,, I work here in Freeport TX building a LNG project, But my land is in Cleveland TX just north of Houston
I'm working on a starting problem on my D20A-6. I have been looking at the schematic and looking at the starter motor area on the dozer as well, but I can't figure out one thing. There appears to be three components bolted together to make up the starter assembly. The starter motor, the starter solenoid, and another device as well. The schematic shows the "Starting Motor", and labels it as such. To the left of it looks like the starter solenoid, but there is a label named "Safety Relay". And it doesn't show a third component. So I'm confused. Two parts on the schematic, three on the dozer. I haven't taken anything apart yet, but it looks like the wire coming from the key switch goes into that third component, not the starter solenoid, so I'm thinking it does something, but I don't know what. As many of you may already know, the electrical section of the shop manual consists of one page, the schematic. I guess we can be thankful that they at least gave us that. Any insight on this would be helpful. By the way, I can jumper the solenoid and the starter turns, so that is eliminated. Phew!
We were hauling limestone base into the LNG project here a Betchel project, now we got Exxon that is going to build a Cracker plant 10.3 billion we have hear over 2 millions tons of base to be hauled in.. anyway I been looking at switching my tracks over from pyramid to regular 11in grousers, and I got a price from a manufacture from China of only $450 a set, so I'm requesting photos of set and specs and added the 8 lower rollers and 2 upper rollers and see what that will cost and a quote for shipping, if it all comes in under $2000 then I'm going to order it, just one side of tracks here in the USA is like $3500 once I find out total price I let you know
ok 2 sets of grouser tracks= 900, 8 bottom track rollers =384, 2 top rollers+90, shipping to Houston 1100 total is 2474, sounds like a good deal to me!!
ok only thing I got wrong on the quote was the shipping its not to Houston,tx its to your front door, plus if others want to due a group deal on this the price will drop even more, 6 or more with the same order will 2177. Price is good till the end of October so let me know if this might be something you want to get in on
Checked with the local Komatsu dealer here and talked to one of their mechanics and I asked about getting parts direct from China and he said they due it not all the time but when things get tight with a customer they due what it takes and so far quality was there and no issues on parts being out of spec. He said they don't see to many of these little dozer in for work but the last one was about 2yrs ago to replace the steering clutches and to rebuild the cylinders, the trax were replaced about 600hrs from the last time they had it and he was guessing it had over 5800hrs on it if he remember right but everthing was still running strong.
This just confirms my idea about these little dozers and what my buddy has been telling me, these things just run and run and run,,, if you can wrench a bit on them, there is nothing really hard to fix on them, just takes a little time. It seems parts are readily available for them through several sources... I should have mine by Christmas time!
well it came in today, steering is off somewhat so I need to read up on it
the serial number sort of throws me a bit unless this is one of the last of the d20 series before they went to d21 ] there she is Now the full Monty
Great looking ride buddy!!!! Now you got me jonsing for mine!!!!
ok let it warm up a bit then took it for a test drive, its got plenty of power in 1st and 2nd but 3 seems pretty fast ... only thing is on turning, seems like you got to pull the lever all the way back just to the point were it locks and then it will turn fine but seems like you want some play in it so I'm guessing some adjust ments are in order, not used to the throttle on the left wonder how hard it be to convert to a pedal throttle might have to dig into that in a much latter time other than that I'm pretty happy with her
seems like the longer you use the easier it is operate, I guess everything takes awhile to warm up and get working right. Looks like Doggett just serviced it on 8-15-2017 that's the markings on the filters, and both are Napa filters. I noticed me fan housing is maybe at only 75% of its there so I got a heat gun and thinking about getting some abs plastic and try to melt it to conform to the old shrowed , And I noticed that where the hydraulic line cooler might have been they just put in some pipe in the shape of a W but that might be original don't know it looks out of place. Other than that seems like there are no other issues other what I have previously posted
Now I figure out my fan problem its installed backwards, that's why I thought with some of shrowd missing is why it was running warm, well I'm using it and them is like a needle width from going into the red so its starting to bum me out so I put down to idle and climb down and walk up front now its really hot up here? So I lean on the front part of blade to get a better look into the radiator to see if I see some sort of blockage and wow the blade is freaking really hot, so I'm wondering and then notice the air is really warm lean up and sure enough hot air come from the front of radiator. hmmm shut it off and look at fan blade yep its backwards now it starts puking coolant so start it back up to let cool down and notice red light on panel there are 3 of them the one on the far left is on, so takes me a few minutes get back by house to get a hose to cool her down,, shot some water thur the radiator from engine side and it cooled down really quick but I could smell some sort of oil I'm guessin right now that what ever oil cooler is up by radiator that got hot and caused light to come on so hopefully nothing was damaged I doubt it, I'm thinking with fan installed correctly that so much heat was being drawn out and previous operator was getting to warm or that it was a honest mistake and installed backwards. Belt is new, filters are new, radiator houses new, fan looks new so I could see that happening. Operators manuel should be in this week sometime.
It doesn't really matter too much which way the fan is blowing--it shouldn't be getting that hot either way. I've had three track loaders and they all have had reversible fans. If you're working a fire you want the fan blowing out (forward) so you don't suck hot air or flames into the rad/engine bay. Winter you want them blowing in--really helps keep the operator warm! Sounds like you might have some other issues.
hmmmm wonder what I need to check first?? thermos stat then I guess water pump, engine runs smooth as can be and starts up on the very turn of the key
pulled the upper hose and no thermostat, put it all back together started it up and opened radiator cap to see what was going on, well looks like there is pretty good movement of coolant but I don't see any bubbles that would eliminate a head gasket issue, and with that the motor is pretty darn clean and I'm sure it was washed pretty good. But I have ran it for a good 15hrs and I don't see any type of seepage around heads and oil is just a tint of color on it but its not like super black. So this leads me back to the fan, now the oil cooler on the front shapped like a W from what I read its engine oil cooler so with the fan blowing thur the radiator seem like the oil cooler would not get cooled per sea and it would just keep getting warmer or hotter as time went on?? Thinking about reversing fan and then in front of radiator put a electric fan between the shield and radiator looks like there is plenty of room for one. Or due I need to chase this overheating issue some more, not sure what else to check for except pull radiator and have it gone thur?? thoughts??
I would install a new thermostat and cap and really look at that radiator, just to make sure its not stopped up or gunked up somewhere. I rented a 450 cat and the fan drew air across the motor and blew out the front of the machine to keep from sucking in all that dirt and caking up the engine compartment,,, I do know that some backhoes and ditchers we used at a company I used to work at,,, if they didn't have a stat and good radiator cap,, they would overheat in just a bit. Hope this helps,,, maybe someone else will chime in that knows better than I!
according to parts books the fan is supposed to blow away from the engine, I can see how they would want it this way, going to order a electric fan any way and mount it on the front on the bottom and see how that works for now,
Have to agree on the lack of thermostat issue, saw this years ago both on heavy engines and gasoline engines where someone thought they could get more cooling without one. Problem is coolant flow does increase TOO MUCH, blows thru the radiator without enough time in the core to actually cool it down. We went to installing gutted thermostats on racing gas engines just for a restriction and re-installed t-stats in the heavy engines to do as were designed.
well I'm going to take the advice and put it all back the way it was add a thermostat and going to add a electric fan in the front just for piece of mind incase it starts climbing then I can turn it on and see what effect it has.
Started taking everything off and just to go thur it, no real surprises except when I took the hood off, well surprise!!! From the muffler to the one on the hood there was no pipe extension. So I'm thinking that would have added to the over heating issue, the fan starts pulling in heated exhaust and pushing that thur the muffler I'm thinking that might have been enough to cause the problem.. Which leads to my other problem.. I bought a 12volt fan but I for got the Komatsu is a 24volt system. I don't think there is a way I can wire it to the battery hooked up in a series.
If you attach a wire to either end of the jumper that connects the two batteries together, you will have +12 volts on that wire in reference to ground. You will need a switch between that wire and the fan, so you can turn it on and off. An inline fuse would also make it safe as well. Ground the other fan lead and you should be good to go. It would be much easier, of course, if the fan was a 24 volt model, as you could connect it to the ignition switch where it would come on when you turn the key on.
Finally got it and can call it mine! Will haul it to my land this weekend and have a little fun!
Congrats, T Curtiss. I hope you enjoy it as much as I enjoy mine. They are tough little machines and fun to use. They do occasionally have issues, but what can you expect from a machine this old? The good thing is that this forum has covered many of the problems they have, some in detail. I have not had much help searching for something, but it doesn't take too long to browse through all 113 pages. There is a lot of goo info here. I see you're in the Cleveland area. I was born there many moons ago, but raised elsewhere. Most of my relatives are in the vicinity. It's very similar up here in the Henderson area. Piney woods with iron ore colored dirt. And it gets on everything.
I was raised in Ft. Worth area and after selling everything up there, My sister had moved to Cleveland for a job, and on visits,,, I just fell in love with the little town. I bought 6ac out in the Sam Houston National forest and just love it out there. I bought this old machine from a buddy of mine and really excited to tinkering and rebuilding it.... and this site,,, and the post,,, just awesome!!!! and a Big Thank you to you and all the other posters for the invaluable information and tricks that I have learned reading these post!! I'm working down here in Freeport on a project that should last a couple of years, maybe we can meet and have a Dr.Pepper some evening on my way thru!
Has anyone built a decelerator for a Komatsu D21-a dozer? I would like to put one on my 1995.
Ok,,, for anyone that still looks at this page,,, I have my D20-6 up and running great! It will push a full blade and then some,,, really happy with the machine! But before I tear in and replace the clutches,,, it will drive first off like a champ,,, gradually turning in both directions,,, then after maybe 10 min of use,,, I have to pull the handles out until the street brake locks to get it to turn at all,,, then the brakes will not work for a bit,,, then it goes back to working fine,,,, like it has a hydrolic stoppage going to the actuators for the clutch disengagement,,,, the it stops working the brakes too,,, I think I remember that there is some screens I need to clean,,, but dang if I remember where I read them,,, just like they need bleeding,,, but I know that’s not right. One other deal that y’all might have a answer to,,, the clutch pedal,,, way too high,,, have to really hike my leg up to get on it!!! Everything works well on this machine and I have no plans on selling it,,, just neat to have one around the place,,, and don’t mind turning a few wrenches! I’m sure it just needs a little TLC! Merry Christmas to all! Tommy Found a great post on page 106 about the strainer in the wet couch that may solve my streering problem,,, will clean it and get back with more info soon,,,, but the clutch pedal has me stumped
Well the trans screen cleaning didn’t work. While adjusting the brakes I could see signs of oil on the right clutch with the little covers off. I did get the clutch pedal adjusted with the correct free play and at the right height,,, So now it’s time to talk to someone about parts and what else needs to be fixed while in there! I’ll post pictures while I’m doing the repair if anyone it interested,,, but it might be a bit,, have to wait for parts and another long weekend to work on it!
i got a d20a-5 and am having trouble with the steering clutchbrake i am having trouble removing it and locating replacment parts
Call either one of these guys: www.dmmsales.com Darin Ray in NY www.kentbaughequipment.com in Texas I just ordered a full set of clutches and brake bands from Kent this morning,,, both these guys have numerous post on this thread and can get all the parts you need with reasonable pricing,,,, both also sell on eBay Good luck and let us know how things turn out Tommy
i got both clutches out but dont know how to get the clutch bar and the iner plate to remove the thro out bearing i thing its what they call and ideas
How much of a PITA is it to turn the pins on the chains on a D21?
I'm having issue with my D21, it's main clutch won't disengage, that every time I switched it on, the dozer will just move forward right away. Currently, the dozer is not touching any ground, to prevent unwanted accidents.
Hey have you finished your clutch job yet?? got mine running great except for the steering the left handle you pull it and there is nothing no feel for it, the right one get about 1/2 way and then it grabs, I like your ROPS on yours wish mine was like that and you got the 11in tracks vs I got the pyramids. let me know how its going and any photos would be great
I haven't got to play with mine much yet... stupid thing called work gets in the way!! and my land is two hours north of where I am working. I went ahead and ordered a set of clutches that I will put in come spring time., But I am very happy with my purchase! Just taking sometime to change fluids and fixing a few neglected things as I plan on keeping it a long time! keep adjusting on those brake bands and you should start getting some handle tension on them,,, had to do the same on mine,,, I just decided to get a set of clutches from Kent Baugh to make them right,,, ordered one day, had them the next and a really nice guy to talk to!!! Definitely will use him again!
Sounds good, everyone that comes over want to drive and when I start it up always on the first crank, it fires up as soon as you turn the key. Any way everyone comments on how smooth the engine runs, no vibrations or buzzing, fan actually makes more noise than the exhaust. Yeah we just started on the Exxon plant here and its a good 20-22 month job on just making the haul road from the port to the plant. 11 billion Exxon is putting into this plant so how many years of operation will it take to start making money?? Its supposed to have a 75yr lifespan most likely more and well over 1000 extra acres to expand when needed
Got my left handle adjusted it was just barely pushing that piston the other one was pushing it in all the way, got it adjusted and now I can spin either way. I thinking wow I got everything working great... what why is that red light on!!! thinking my alt might be not working so going to have to test it, batteries are fine, other than that this little dozer is working good!!!
That is really cool! I have my clutches, just haven’t got them in yet,,,, we are working lots of hours and I can’t get a weekend off! Take that alternator to Orilieys and get it tested,,, if it’s bad,,, try to find a rebuild shop or see if you can order parts Orr eBay as I hear those are a little pricey, Good luck and keep in touch!
Hi Guys, Looking for Parts & Repair Manuals for a D20A-7 dozer. PDF version please. PM me & let me know payment details,etc. I'm working on this dozer & it has no steering at all. Trying to work out if it's a joystick/hydraulic issue ,or frozen clutches. Machine has sat idle for some time. Thanks Jim
I think you will find what you need here. http://www.ssbtractor.com/komatsu_tractor_manuals.html
Thanks RRR, The currency conversion & postage are a killer. Saw a PDF manual on Tradebit,but not sure if they are trustworthy..
ok I got a order coming in from Quanzhou Fulian Machinery Equipment Co., Ltd. in China and I got room for another 500lbs the shipping is still the same, so rear sprockets are $80 bottom and top rollers are $55 each I got 10 days left before shippent goes out, and sprockets and rollers are same for D20 and d21
JimInOz, I bought one from Tradebit a year or two back and had no problems, but your mileage may vary. Didn't see on the original post that you are located in Australia. I would imagine postage would be pretty expensive for something that heavy. I buy the PDF versions that I can download instantly. Then I can read about what I am currently working on, and print out only the pages I need for the current job. I don't know about the D20A-7 manual, but the A6 manual appears to only exist in a badly Xeroxed copy that was then scanned in. The pictures are almost worthless. There may be original manuals out there somewhere, but I have never laid eyes on one in my searches. I have a hard copy I got with my dozer, and then I ordered a PDF version later on, thinking it would be a bit better. Nope, it was the same. I also don't know if the A7 clutches are the same as the A6 clutches, but there are several posts here in previous pages that discuss steering clutches and some of the problems and solutions. Good luck with it, sir.
Hi RRR, I actually have proper OEM books for the 6 series.I own a lot of manuals that I bought over the years. I always liked the American manuals.Great pics & info...Case,IH,Cat,etc were all good. The Jap manuals were not great...I think they are only written with trained mechanics in mind.And don't get me started on their Parts books. This 7 series machine has the joystick steering .Looks like a good thing,but no steering at present,as both sides appear to be frozen. My main experience is with the Mitsubishi dozers,so the Komatsu is new to me. I think I'll just pull it all down & renew the ruined parts.I always like to have the manual ,for tips & specs. Also need to do something with the trans brake band. I'll give Tradebit a shot & see what I get. Jim
http://www.tractorbooks.co.nz/ I have got two manuals from these guys , one a photo copy , other proper printed manual made up from two . Bolted workshop job with annotations from a south island hydro dam site and an ex govt Ministry of works branch in Napier .
Hey guys, new user here. I've recently purchased a d20-7 with a rod hanging out of the block. I purchased a good used engine which had came out of kumatsu forklift and I'm in the process of swapping it out. They have the same blocks, crank, rods, pistons, and cam. Heads, injectors, and injector pumps are different. Has anyone else experienced this before?
Also, could anyone confirm the year?
Just found this thread, very informative. I'm looking at acquiring an early 2000s D21A-7 machine, and wondered what year model they went to the joystick/powershift type controls? I'm always leery of buying 1st year equipment where there's been a pretty radical design change. Generally they need a couple years to get things sorted out and effect changes. Also, has anyone operated these machines at higher altitudes (5000'+)? Wondered if the engine felt like it still generated enough power to put in a good day's work. Anything unique to this design that I might find useful to ask/look at when I go to check it out? Thanks ~
I fixed the steering on my dads D21p-6 using info on this forum. Thanks. It has a serial number 65278. I think it's 85-92 year model. I was hoping someone could look it up for me thanks kevan
New to Heavy Equipment Forums. Your links have expired. Can you re post the Dipstick Locations and the clutch oil specs for a D20p-6
New to Heavy Equipment Forums. Your links (members) have expired. Can you re post the Dipstick Locations and the clutch oil specs for a D20p-6
Hi all, New to the forum, just bought a 98' d217E and could use some expert advise! Everything seems to operate fine on my machine except the clutch. No matter how gently I release the clutch, it feels like I'm dumping it. Goes from no engagement to full engagement with almost no travel. The steering doesn't suffer from the same problem, they can be feathered in. Is there a separate drive clutch, or does the foot pedal just engage both steering clutches at the same time? (IE is it a pedal adjustment that's needed or some internal work on the drive clutch) Thanks for the help.
they stop working altogether soon enough . One on a neighbours has failed and he just uses the throttle and gear change to operate it . Its seems alright once you get used to it but was hairy on steep ground when I had ago . I did notice he had a problem controlling his walk speed when we used a wheel tractor and the dozer winch to haul it back onto the track ,having the clutch would have helped . I have been told its not expensive parts wise but labour intensive to repair , another model has a similar problem @ around 4000 hours . I'm rather interested how you get on with this .
Should have done some reading first... The fella I bought it off of called it a clutch pedal, but I now see it's an inching pedal. I'll check the linkage, failing that pull and clean the inching valve.
Doing some maintenance/painting/rebuilding on my d21a7 with a model number on the engine 4d95s-1 and a low serial number say made in Japan on the valve cover. Now my question is does anyone know the valve clearance for this motor? i have both manuals and they say contact the dealer our local dealer is not much help they said this machine is not supposed to be in the USA
My manual says 0.35 mm - intake and 0.50 mm - exhaust when cold for the 4d95s-1.
Much thanks! My dad was looking at the manuals, I guess not in the right place though.
Hi everyone, just got a D20P-6 at a real good price, but now i need track chains, does anyone know of a good source or has anyone ran the rubber tracks on their machine, if so how are/did they hold up, just gonne be using for small jobs around the farm Thanks Scamp
Check eBay there is a guy in New York that was helpful and that has lots of parts i will try to dig up his contact info Darin ray was his name possibly
well, kind of good news for me, I found the chains on ebay for 1500 bucks, the only bad part is pick up only, and im not driving to new york Scamp
Bummer.... didn’t think about that part
believe it or not the local Power Equipment Dealer gave a better price then Ebay, chains for my little D20P-6 $1300, new bolts for the swamp pads $417, and the swamp pads are $61 ea, good thing i only need 1 pad. Scamp
Scamp, Do you know if those chains are interchangeable with the 21-a? I just bought new chains for 1189.64 before tax from my local kom dealer.
not sure about the interchange, but that includes freight so i am pretty pleased with that price for the tracks and 488 bolts and nuts and a few other small parts Scamp
I just got my traxx in this evening and rear sprockets, total price delivered was $2344.22
Hey my pyramid pads are really in pretty good shape, im going to be taking them off so if you might need a few let me know and maybe we can work something out
I'll keep that in mind, i may check and see what the price is on regular pads already installed , then all i have to do is install them
New drums,brake bands, steels and frictions. I read on this forum about large zip tie to help brake band install. Worked good and took a 1/8" welding rod and removed flux. Then pointed one end sharp so I could heat it red hot, reach thru clutch slave piston hole and melt zip tie. Other end of welding rod I bent a hook, and removed large zip tie thru drain hole on bottom of clutch/ brake area.
This forum is awesome. I e been reading from the beginning and got prob 20 pages in but haven’t seen anyone mention the hydraulic cylinder rebuilds. I have a few leaking in my dozer. I know there are a few on eBay but not sure what size I need for my d-21a-6 with serial number of 61338. Any help would be appreciated. Also, it seems I read somewhere that the hydraulic oil is not just standard hydraulic fluid. I’m in TN so not much real cold weather here. What suggestions for fluids would you guys with more experience recommend? Thanks in advance.
Rodney, The Komatsu brand cylinder rebuild kit is very expensive as I just rebuilt one of the angle cylinders. I jut bought a kit off eBay yesterday for a lift cylinder for under 50.00 shipped. I will report back if it works as good as the Komatsu brand kit.
Please do... I have several that I will rebuild if I can get them for that price... I only have one that is a problem as far as a definite HAVE to do now, but the others have signs of future problems so I’d like to do them as well.
you may not need the whole kit just the front seal if all you have is oil seapage
True, I didn't install the piston ring when I rebuilt the last one. it looked fine and I don't have the proper tools to install without doing more damage.
Well the only parts of the rebuild kit that were the right size were the rod wiper seal (you see this seal on the exterior of the cylinder) and the rod seal. Luckily everything else was ok and it stopped my leak. I will find the part number and report back.
Kracker, did you get your tracks on? I am just finishing my track/chain replacement here in a few days.
Just got a new starter installed on my D20A-6 and was ready to get some overdue work done. But after about an hour of pushing dirt, it started sputtering and almost died on me with the throttle cracked a good bit. I had to limp it back to the house, letting it sit and speed back up a bit before driving a bit farther. It had been sitting up about a year, so I thought it's probably water in the fuel, or something got stopped up. When I cranked it up the next day to move it close to the shop, it ran just fine, so I eased down to the closest place I could work and started pushing dirt again. It didn't last for 5 or 10 minutes and started sputtering again. So I parked it by the shop and started troubleshooting. First, I replaced the fuel filter. Then I pulled the strainer out of the fuel tank inlet and looked into the tank with a flashlight. I could see a little dirt in the bottom of the tank, and a nodule of some kind laying in the bottom as well. I didn't see any water, and everything I saw was well below the pickup tube. But I drained the tank and sucked out what was left anyway. I poured a few gallons of fresh diesel in, cranked it up and let it run at medium speed for a few minutes. It wasn't long before it started sputtering again. So I moved up to the feed/injector pump system. I pulled the inlet hose off the feed pump, and fuel came running out, so I know that hose is clear. I pulled off the hose from there to the fuel filter, and from the fuel filter to the injector pump and made sure they were all flowing freely. I pulled off the priming pump, and the plug, spring, and piston in the side of the feed pump assembly and found no dirt or anything that looked bad. I blew air through the fuel filter assembly and it was clear. Now I'm baffled. It runs like a champ, smooth as can be when first started, but after a short, random time, it starts sputtering and almost dies. I am not a diesel mechanic, and until 2010, never owned a diesel. So I have no experience troubleshooting the fuel system for a diesel. My thoughts right now are that the feed pump is not pumping fast enough to keep up with the demand at higher rpm, and after the fuel filter drains what fuel it has in it, the injectors are starved. But that is just a wild guess. I feel like the injector pump itself is working fine, but is starved for fuel. I would appreciate any thoughts or opinions you may have on this problem. I am not scared to tear into anything as long as it is advisable. I just don't want to go removing something that is virtually impossible to replace after examining.
Check the fuel cap vent is not blocked .
Oh my goodness. If that is what it is, I will be a happy camper, and quickly purchase a new cap. I will check it out tomorrow. Thanks.
Run the machine till it starts to stall, shut off, loosen fuel cap and listen for vacuum in tank as epirbalex says.
Well, that wasn't it. It started sputtering and I took the cap completely off and ran it for another three or four minutes with no change. Any other ideas?
That's a pity , either blocked intermittently or sucking air into a line maybe , taking to the injector pump would be to hasty . It is behaving abit like a D31 that I had here for awhile , operator treated it for diesel bug and it came right after a filter change a couple of times , it too had been sitting for an extended period . I know he added something to the fuel but don't know what it was . Another couple of local roosters tore of an injector pump from a Case 1150 only to have blocked filters . Serviceman had to put it back together again .
Iam sure you looked at/cleaned the banjo bolt filter at the pump inlet?
I have pulled all of the banjo bolts out and I have not seen a filter anywhere. Are you talking about the holes in the bolt? The parts breakdown for this section doesn't list a filter anywhere that I see. http://k-part.com/#?k=!0!2!1066!303!24!34
epirbalex, my brother-in-law told me they use a product called Diesel 911 on all their equipment where he works. He said it will get rid of water and other stuff in the fuel over time. Don't know any more than that about it. Sorry to hear about the blocked filters episode. I have been burned before by something really simple like that. It's not a good feeling.
Yeah, on part #16 there is a tiny screen/filter on my machine. Does not show on that breakdown thou.
Had a little blow come through this evening, with much needed rain. More in the forecast. Will check out that banjo next chance I get. Thanks, tantoy.
Yeah, 16 should have a filter in it.. To determine if things are pumping like they should.. Take the fuel INLET line off or loosen it, at the injection pump.. Have someone standing there to watch & crank the engine.. fuel should be pulsing outta there at about 20psi.!! ALOT of fuel.. IF IT IS.. tighten it back up.. NOW go to the return side & pull THAT banjo bolt out.. it should be a spring loaded overflow valve.. CHECK IT.. Its "supposed to" hold 25psi in the pumping gallery.. You could rig up a pressure gauge at the pump inlet to check the pressure.. Check the overflow valve for a broken/weak spring.. shake it & get a small scribe or screwdriver & push the check ball from the bottom.. the spring should have tension on it.. Good luck..
Woohooo! Thanks to all of you for the help. I pulled the inlet banjo bolt, and took it all the way out. Sure enough, this time I saw the filter. And boy was it stopped up. I had to take a picture of it to share with you all. I pushed dirt for about two hours, and it never so much as coughed one time. I double-checked the drawing to see if I just overlooked the filter, but I didn't. It is definitely not on there. Must have been a mod that didn't get documented. Once again, thank you all. thepumpguysc, good info there, and I will keep it handy in case there is another episode down the line. https://photos.app.goo.gl/Z9BiT6JrXvebqQFp9
WOW. THAT IS stopped up..!!! That little baby "almost" cost you about $2000.00.!!! {Inj. pump overhaul} The only way that crud coulda got that far is, by fuel filter neglect..!!! {public shaming, lol} I hope you learned your lesson?? A couple of 20.00 filters a few times a year, will keep A BUNCH of money "IN" your pocket in the long run.. The filter isn't in the breakdown because the banjo bolt is sold as an assembly..1 pc.. They make BRASS ones too..{older style} Ya might wanna consider draining & sucking out/cleaning the fuel tank.. Just imagine what got by that "last resort" screen..??
Ok, I'm a bit confused by what you are saying. The spin-on fuel filter is downstream from this little filter, and I change it with every oil change. The tank was drained and cleaned when I first started fighting this problem. It has fresh diesel in it now. This crud has probably been building up for the 7 years I've owned this dozer, because I didn't know there was another filter that needed to be serviced. It will be checked periodically from now on. Thanks again for all the help and education. Sure is nice to be able to work again.
Are you saying the fuel goes from the tank, thru THAT little clogged filter, THEN on to the main filters?? IF so, If it were mine, I'd put another filter in-line.. something like one of those glass or plastic see-thru, push on ones.. One of those would keep you outta trouble.. Glad to hear you already cleaned the tank..
Yessir, the fuel hits this thing straight out of the tank, then through the feed pump, through the fuel filter, and into the injector pump. Not sure why they did it this way. I would think that if the fuel filter was first in this arrangement, with it so high up near the top of the tank, there may be problems getting fuel to flow up and through the fuel filter, and on down and into the feed pump. It would be like a siphon action to begin, but would probably flow ok after it was started. I think you have a good idea there. I will pick up one of those inline filters and stick it on the line from the tank. Thanks again.
Interesting and informative guys. Thanks !
I can say w/ 100% certainty I had no idea that that's how the fuel flowed.!!! I've cleaned out THOUSANDS of those screens when I get a pump in.. & ALWAYS wondered how in the h-ll somebody could let their filters get so clogged, that the little screen could be plugged.. & on 75% of the lift pumps, I had to replace the pumping piston because they were so scored up.. NOW I know..
I hear ya. Glad my pump didn't get damaged. Sounds expensive to repair. If I had known that little filter was there to begin with, it would have been the first thing I would have checked. Oh well, live and learn.
88 d21, need to replace the starter, any ideas on a good point of contact
scokat, I just replaced my starter a few months ago. The starter solenoid is all that was wrong, but I could not find just the solenoid anywhere. There are some that are close to it, and look just like it, but the mounting holes do not match. I bought my starter from Rare Electrical, via Amazon for $339.80 and free shipping. It comes with the starter and the solenoid, but not the safety relay, so you have to use your old one, or wire the key switch directly to the solenoid. I believe the safety relay is only there to keep you from energizing the solenoid while the motor is running. I took mine out and wired directly to the solenoid from the key switch. It is up to me to not turn the key to start while the engine is running, and I'm good with that. Here is a link to the starter. I am very happy with what I got, and they also sold me the solenoid that didn't fit (my fault, not theirs), and accepted it back with no problem and free shipping back to them. Good luck with it, sir. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007A3UZ9G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Also, if you want a used starter, this fellow may have one he can scrap for you. Very nice guy up north of me here in east Texas. A pleasure to deal with. Kent Baugh. Here is his website. http://www.kentbaughequipment.com/default.htm
I had some delays, we got like 12in of rain and some other family issues came up so not done yet, but im going to get with here in the next week or so, im sort of on the fence on changing out the steering clutches, when operating mine it takes a few minutes before everything seems starting working, then once I get it start turning left and right , most of the time I have to pull the lever all the way back to get that track to stop and the other track keeps turning till it aims in the direction I want to go. Then after about 30 or so minutes then it will start to turn when I just pull about 1/2 on the levers. So not sure on whether to keep as is or change them out, I got the manual but its beyond confusing to me on what is what in it.
wiper seal and rod seal form Kent Baugh was $28
I have posted this before but am restating it here. I have been using a strainer type filter which was used in some older mercedes diesels in the 70's. Works like a charm. Wix number 33971 or similar. They are clear plastic so you can see how much trash has collected. I insert it just below the fuel tank so its easy to get at. i think they cost around 5 bucks a pop. When it gets dirty I just blow the dirt out with compressed air and use it some more. And yes I was gobsmacked by the dang little filter inside the banjo fitting below the lift pump too back when. Who knew???
I followed this up on my own dozer (D155) , engine workshop manual has a filter on the manual lift pump . No provision on the pump for it , however there is an off motor tap and filter set up close to it . Checked my service USB , nothing listed , not listed in my dozer workshop manual either that covers any thing but the motor . Looks to me like the tap and filter set up is standard guess some things we are supposed to know about .
D31 sat for past couple years. When I started it a few weeks ago oil squirted from oil cooler which turned out to be cracked (winter freeze?) since I did not drain it or the radiator when I parked it last. Got the oil cooler fixed and now I see this pink stuff coming off the head when I took the cap off the vertical rubber tube. Red antifreeze was put in it after the oil cooler repair so I am guessing this pink stuff is a mix of oil and anti freeze. Water is disappearing from the radiator but the oil on the dip stick looks clean and it starts easily and runs good. Any guesses as to whats going on? Cracked head around a water passage? https://beta-static.photobucket.com...-original.jpg?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds
If one component cracked I would suspect others, caution and a hard look with the system under pressure test will be HIGHLY advised now.
I have a 2001 D21A-7, use it for my business quite a bit and am wondering if anyone has ever located a ripper, either single or multi-tooth. I have tried unsuccessfully to hunt one down both here and in Australia, know they are made as I've found numerous pics of them. I can't get Komatsu or a couple of the bigger dealerships to even answer my emails, so am thinking of throwing in the towel and using the different pics I've found to see about fabricating one from scratch. Thought I'd try once more here to see if I can't get a bite. Thanks...
JPSouth, Not many D20/21 (or Mitsubishi BD2) had rippers fitted.Komatsu catalogues show a ripper available,but they are rarely found. The Mitsubishi dealers here in Australia often put a ripper behind the BS3 Crawler Loaders,but Japanese outlets didn't usually fit them. They were more a snow & mud machine over there.We Aussies like our ROPS,Rippers & 4in1 Buckets. Try finding a basic ripper set up from an IHTD6 or Allis ,Deere 350,etc.The MF200 rippers were good too. Jim
Who/where would I get a oil fill cap/cover/plug - Doug
https://www.trademe.co.nz/business-...-machinery/parts-attachments/auction-95045835 you might want to try these guys , not cheap but with exchange rate difference might help .
I'm still reading all 117 pages, but thought I'd toss this up here and see if anyone can save me the three hours needed to read everything. I'd rather read it at my leisure than skim through and miss thing I will need in the future. On to my question. I had power to the left track and the right brake would lock up and turn. I removed the plates for access to linkage. The right linkage was way out of adjustment compared to the left that was working, so I turned the linkage to be the same as the working side. No I have zero movement. Any help is appreciated.
Go to post #1982 on page 100. Download manual and find linkage adjustment procedure. This worked for me to get clutch and brakes all working good.
Thank you so much, I’m on page 20 & that will save me reading a bunch I don’t need right now. Still gonna plug away at it though. Thanks once again.
Was spreading large dirt pile from tree/brush burn with D31s16 and stopped for 15 minutes. Then stated again and it cranked easily. After 10 minutes I sensed a slight laboring onset and shut it down. When I shut it down it did not "diesel" a little like it normally does. Instead the engine stopped as soon as I shut the throttle down. Checked water and oil. Water/antifreeze mixed in with oil which makes it thick. Now will not start due to very slow crank like a weak battery but battery but batteries are good. Ideas?
Your an engineer.. you KNOW water & oil don't belong together.. if it does start, it aint gonna run very long like that.. The oil needs to be drained & the cooling system, pressure checked..
its already started seizeing bearings suggest you not restart it
Of course your right but the urge to do just another few minutes on it before more bad weather set in was strong. Also I'm thinking that I need to get at least the head cover off and pan dropped so I can see where the leak is or is not coming from during the pressure test. Doing the test without at least that done will only tell me what I already know. That there is a leak somewhere.
New here. I have currently read about 3/4 of the posts. I have experience with small and large Allis Chalmers (HD6 & HD21), but these are a different kettle of fish with the fixed truck frames, steering and drive mechanism of the D21A-8. Up until a week ago I was unaware that these little machines existed. They were never imported into Oz as new, and are now being imported second hand from Japan. I an was contemplating a small Korean 4wd tractor/loader, but have hesitated/ as the country is steep in parts, rocky in parts and covered in fallen timber. I have some minor earth works to do and a heap of manuka scrub to clear out from under mature forest trees. I am now looking to purchase a D21A-8, with 2100 hrs. I have uploaded some images of the track gear/sprocket, and am curious as to the life left in them especially the pins. I am told that the tracks are SALT tracks. The rest of the machine looks tidy enough. I have yet to touch it though. If I make the effort to drive it ( it is 2000kms away), is there anything I need to note wrt the drive engagement and steering that would give me any warnings to steer clear. Thanks in anticipation. Donald tracks
I have seen where Japanese new machines sold used here advertised having had a geiger counter run over them . Heaps of Japanese new sold used into NZ across the Komatsu range . Suggest you ask your closest Komatsu dealership if they will supply parts for it .
Hi, I'm new to the forum. I have a D20 A5 that I'm having a problem with. I start it up and drive it for a bit and then the left track starts to bog down and eventually will lock the track. If I wait a few seconds it will release but will slowly lock up again over a few yards of driving. This will go on and on over and over for quite a while (10 to 15 minutes) and then it will stop happening and the unit will run fine the rest of the day. The problem only seems to happen when I first start it up. I've checked and adjusted the linkages - everything is set up right. Any ideas? Is it a sticky hydraulic valve?
Maby that brake is too tight, try loosing the adjustment bolt for left brake band?
I can try that. The weird part is that it stops happening after a while and runs perfectly fine until the next time I start it up after its been sitting. -- I'd think if the brake band was too tight, it would get worse after the machine warmed up, but maybe not.
Here is a long winded story that may provide some food for thought for those who own/operate the D20/21's and have problems with the steering/braking on them. I purchased a D21-6a around 2007 from a neighboring state. I had a company truck it for me. Started using it to level 72 dump truck loads of dirt. I had never run a dozer before, so I had nothing to compare it to. It seemed to be fine, but was a little tricky to steer. After a while it got harder to steer. I was starting to look like Popeye from having to pull so hard on the steering levers to get it to turn. Finally took it to a Komatsu shop. They said drive clutches were shot and we had them rebuild it. After that it ran great. We used it off and on for 3 years and then I got relocated for three years so it sat in the machine shed, not being used. I moved back and we used it to move some rock piles on the line fence. After that it sat for another year without being used. Started running it this last summer and it worked great, however the steering started to get bad. It finally got so bad that I would push in the inching clutch, pull the lever in the direction I wanted to turn, and then let out the clutch slowly to get it to turn! Otherwise it would never turn. It got really bad, so I decided it was time to tear into it again. I spent a lot of time online trying to determine what would be wrong, finally figuring that all those years of just sitting around and not being used caused the clutch bands in the steering to rust again and stop working. I trailered it home, drove it onto railroad ties, and started checking fluids. I started with the transmission fluid and filter. The fluid was at the correct level, but I had never cleaned the screen. I removed the oil, and then the screen. It was clean so I reinstalled it. This was tricky trying to get the o-ring back in place... Ask me if you need a way to put it back together. I then got ready to change the fluid in the final drives. I removed the filler plug, and oil SHOT out of the hole. Yes, it was definitely the filler hole. I put the plug back in after a 1-2 cups of oil had escaped. I then went to the other side. The same thing occurred!. I then removed the oval inspection cover for the center pinion gear case, and it was full. So, Where was the extra oil in the final drives coming from? I checked all of the other fluid levels, and they were where they should be. I then looked at some youtube videos, and saw that on most of the D21s, there are about 8 bolt holes on the back of each steering clutch case. In the videos, these holes are empty. Mine had shiny bolts installed in them with silicon. I opened up the brake adjustment covers and found the steering cases full of oil. Since I had not added this oil, it had to have been installed by the shop. So, maybe they made an error by making the dry clutch system a wet clutch system, but it worked! All of those years when this unit sat unused, it should have rusted the clutches and the drums. Often the brake adjusters will rust as well. On mine, I removed the access panels to adjust the brake bands and I was able to adjust them with my fingers, no wrenches needed. So, I tightened them both both until snug and then backed them off 1/4 turn and put it all back together. That was all it needed. Turns with 1/2 pull per lever, dead stops with both levers fully pulled. Hard turn with one side fully pulled, etc. I did run this all by Darrin of DMM, telling him what I found. He stated that they were indeed dry clutches... So, will this work for you? I don't know. What I do know is that I don't use this dozer often or at least run it every month or so, but I'm not worried about doing that since it can't rust out the clutches with all of the oil. Timeline wise, that oil has been in there for at least 9 years. Good luck!
Has it had breather caps fitted , pressure could force the oil into the final drives . Sombody was thinking outside the box .
No breather caps were installed. Would be a good idea, tho... I do feel that the extra oil in the finals came from when they filled the steering cases. I'm not sure those sections are completely sealed from each other. I don't know that the finals shafts coming from the steering cases have good seals and that allowed the oil to flow into them. I do remember the mechanic saying that "someone removed these bolts from the back and all the oil leaked out. That is why the clutches rusted." It didn't make a whole lot of sense to me then, but that explains why they installed new bolts.
You could lower the oil level below the the output shaft , so there would be no loss when the machine sits , through the seals . I changed a Hyster D7D winch brake to a wet one for cooling , it needed a softer brake fibre to grab . The oil I used first still had the band slipping so used kerosine , works a treat and is clean to work on . I'm in the middle of changing over a Komatsu winch from dry / dirty hot to a wet / clean cool one and are hoping the fiber works without changing it , your choice of fiber for the brake bands might need to be addressed next time they are done .
Only thing I'd worry about then is that if the machine sits for awhile, the portion of the brake drum and the clutches that are no imersed in oil could rust. I realize that they have been in oil for some time, but wouldn't want to risk them rusting. Darin had mentioned the incorrect fiber of the plates and how they may swell and not be able to release, however, they have been in oil for many years now, 6-8, and all still works, including the brake bands. Maybe I got by with just tightening the bands more than normal so they would grab, but like I had said, I finger tightened them...
Hello guys, new to the forum. Glad there is a section here for these little dozers. A lot of information on this thread alone. I've read through about a quarter of it and learned alot already. I just purchased a shop manual for my d21a-7 then a day later seen where someone posted a link that had the entire manual in pdf form...free! Oh well. I am not new to the small dozers as I've owned a pair of Mitsubishi bd2gs in the past. But a couple weeks ago I bought a Komatsu d21a-7 (serial 77794). I knew before purchasing it that only one side was pulling on it. Wasn't sure why at the time but only 1200 hrs and at a great price I was willing to take a risk. Turns out the sprocket nut had worked loose allowing the sprocket to wobble around on the sprocket shaft for who knows how long. So the sprocket and the shaft are both trashed. I can get a sprocket no problem. The shaft seems non-existent. I've called and emailed everyone around. Any help that yall can think of? part #103-27-31311. I seen somewhere that Kent Baugh in Tx had one but no luck there either. Thanks
Any ideas?
If you cant find one or they're non-existent.. how about sending it to a crank/camshaft rebuilder?? They'll size it up from a "good" portion of the shaft & build it back up to size.. Its worth a try.??
https://www.dmmsales.com/ did you try here
I’ve hit up all of our machine shops locally but none of the have a spline machine or do splines at all. I may have to send it off to someone. Thank you.
No I haven’t. But I definitely will now. Thanks.
Try https://www.andersonequip.com/web/idb.php Did a search on the part # you gave, call them to see if they can order it. 1000 bucks!
I know. $1000 seems high but I'd be happy to pay it if they actually have one. I'll give them a shout. Thanks Guglio.
First time poster. My D20A-6 "Squalls" when I tilt the blade left, but does not do that any other direction. Could that be a restriction somewhere, wrong Hydraulic Fluid (oil) in it, or? I also wanted to thank everyone for the wealth of information they have contributed here. Took me 4 days to get thru all 118 pages and I was so involved in it that I was disappointed when I got to the end. Special thanks to Larry as he is the one that inspired me to get a D20A in the first place!!
Thats normal for tilt cyc. .not much volume in that cyc.
Any places to find battery hold down hardware? Already talked to Kent Baugh (and he does not have).
Consider 1/4" or 5/16" threaded rod from a box store. Bend a hook at one end, then cut to correct length. If the hold down hardware on your D20 is like mine there is a ~ 3/4" angle iron the length of both batteries with holes on each end held down by long rods at a ~ 45* angle with a small hook.
trashed in as the sprocket wobbles on the shaft but the shaft is all good as in moving but the splines are bad and the sprocket is bad, if so I would just weld the sprocket to the shaft nice and square as possible then cut out the sprocket from the circles then get you sprocket ring and weld that in and your good to go
Not a good idea to weld a sproket to a shaft , weld will probably fail limiting later repair work . See if a new splin can be cut slightly smaller , have a matching spline cut on same thickness material to match it wide enough to clear the bolted cap , cut out used sproket to match new bit . Then carry on with fitting new rim normal way . Otherwise find a shaft and matching sporket off a wrecked dozer .
If your welder is good then it should fail or crack or what ever there is a shaft on ebay for 795 https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-A-M-KO...L-DRIVE-AXLE-SHAFT-10G-27-21311-/221261596944
the weld should not fail or crack, they weld 48 in pipe together on this massive pipeline their building now thur Texas along hy 44 and FM 624 and pick it up with excuvators and drop down the trench 10ft looking at it one would think that the pipe would bend or break but it dont
Not a good comparison , if the sprocket could be veed out so every bit of the length of the spline could be welded it may have a chance to hold , seals are very close to the heat . Short cut too far for me .
Looks like quite an invested in a new set of tracks and sprockets, why not fix it all the way? Nothing like repairing it properly. Be prepared to install new bearings and a seal or two. Tracks and sockets will be off anyway why not go for it?
Thanks guys for the input. I supposedly have a shaft on the way from Japan. Used for around $700. Also have a sprocket and seals coming. The worst part of it all is the sprocket and shaft are in excellent shape other than the splines. The old guy I bought it from must have had no idea what was happening as he really ate up the splines. I considered welding them only because I couldn't find a shaft anywhere. My problem was how do you get it hot enough to get a good weld and not burn up the seals behind the sprocket? And the shaft on ebay isn't the shaft for my dozer...
the seals are good dosnt leak at all, I had a leak in hose on the blade put 2 new hoses on and no leaks now, around the cylinders theres a seap but its just enough to attract dust and dirt but that's it, the rollers at least aonther 8mm before their worn enough to replace so if I get aonther 500 to 750hrs out of them then its ok with me. im just getting the out rims cut out and the new ones welded in, This was common practice up till the early 80s but Komatsu didn't start doing this till the 90s. And to get the sprockets pressed off you got have a better than average press. oh im sure you could hit it with a 15lb sledge and work it off but welding it has been done for years as standard repair
Got my shaft, new sprocket, and seals from DM Machinery, LLC. Got it all back together and it's doing great....except it won't turn right. Ugh. I feel a clutch job coming up. Would you do both sides even though the left side still clutches? By the way, Darin is the man for hard to find parts on these little komatsu dozers. Thanks tantoy for mentioning him.
New member here. I recently purchased a Komatsu D21A-6. Was told it needs steering clutches. Shows about 2400 hours. Undercarriage looks great. Literally no wear on bushings and sprockets look almost new. Engine sounds good. Dipstick under the brake pedal shows clean/clear and full. Dipstick under the front of the seat shows clean/clear and low. Tank on right side shows no oil in level glass. There is oil leaking from the blade control shafts on top of the control bodies. All cylinders do not leak. Read into the posts for abit and then jumped forward. In the early posts I saw mention of 60 something men getting their first dozer. That's me now 12 years later than those early posts. The answer to my question/s may be in the many posts here already, but I will ask anyway. Here is what I would like to ask: How do I determine that the steering clutches are actually bad? The dozer goes back and forth just fine. From my little bit of research in the shop manual I downloaded the steering clutches are just a bigger version of a motorcycle disc type clutch and are under spring tension. The whole clutch pack is bolted to the final drive gear on one side and bolted to the output shaft from the differential on the other. Steering is initiated by pulling one of the steering levers which operates a hydraulic slave cylinder of sorts that compresses the springs in the clutch pack releasing the spring pressure on the pack which in turn disconnects the final drive gear from the differential thus letting the other track pull the dozer into a turn. Since the little feller goes back and forth easily (under no load just moving itself) is it possible that the steering clutches are stuck rather than worn out? I own and operate a small motorcycle business here in south central Kentucky so sometimes I understand how something works. Would rather try gathering information and checking all adjustments before actually taking it apart for no good reason. Also I am getting a little bit work brittle here of late
Me again. I really like that HEF has this section for us guys that buy these little machines to work around on our property. Thank you.
Me again. I do need a few pieces for this little dozer. The panel that goes on the right side under the blade controls is missing. The armrests are just two pieces of metal now. There is a front panel missing on the left side down below the throttle and gear shift and the lower panel behind the batteries is missing. These two panels I can fab easily enough, but the one under the blade controls would be a little tricky unless I could get a template to cut one from. Thanks for any and all help/advice.
Welcome to the forum.. Yeah there is a pile of pages in this section and I can remember when it was started. Well barely but still.. WOW times flying.. If the steering clutches are not releasing when trying to turn it will bog the engine down IF the brake bands are functioning properly too. If they are slipping for some reason then the tracks will stall out (not turn) when pulling a lever or putting machine under a load.. Will need more details on what its doing..
I actually have not been on this little dozer since I bought it a week ago plus a day or two. At this time I have not checked all the adjustment parameters for clutch/inching clutch, steering levers and brakes. I can tell you that the day it was loaded for transport was warm and wet. The following day (day delivered) was cold and dry (30 degrees). gear shift cable was frozen and dozer would not start by key switch. Finally managed to get it started. Would not move. After it ran for a few minutes it began to move. Managed to move the gearshift just little. most likely just enough to semi engage first gear. Only way to change direction was to use the clutch/inching pedal which caused it to twitch a little to one side or the other. Pulling back on the steering levers made no difference what so ever. The weather has warmed up some here so I intend to check adjustments first, top up fluids, investigate the leaks on the blade control shafts, fire the little feller up and try to get it toward a big stump I have on the property and put it under a load to see if the clutches will slip Appreciate the reply. Thank You.
Keep us posted. I had one machine here that had the same symptoms and was actually ONLY the darn inching valve linkage was froze up not allowing the transmssion to fully engage. Take the floor board off and make sure the linkages are all moving as expected. Good luck
Thank You!
Checked brake adjustments. steering linkage adjustments and inching clutch adjustments today. All are within spec (very close to anyway, enough to do the job/give some results) Actually adjusted the brake band adjuster back 2 turns from the suggested 4 turns out. Fired little dozer up and it wanted to creep. (D21A-6). Both steering rods pulled fully back will stop unit. Brake action by brake pedal is zilch. Steering rod action is almost none. Will respond slightly to one or the other, but very slightly. I feel the brake shoes are worn out and most likely the steering clutches are too. It will move back and forth, but I still have yet to put it under a load. Suggestions?
If your pulling the lever all the way back toward your chest the brakes need to be tightened so the lever travel is only like 6-8 inches or so (not sure on exact) but when adjusting the brakes tighter you should feel the resistance in the levers when pulling actuating the brakes inside. You can see the linkages first start to release the steering clutches by pushing the steering valve spool in the body and then the brake arm moving engaging the brakes.. Is your engine bogging down when trying to steer? I suspect not so you will need to tighten brake lining clearance.
Will try that. All other linkage adjustments are close to spec. Pretty sure that you or Mr. Baugh are going to get a few bucks out of my wallet soon. By the way there is no engine bog what so ever! Maybe that is a good indicator of worn out clutches! Little feller just wants to go forward or backwards and the sweet spot for neutral is hard to find. Gear cable may be a little stretched? Might need one of those also!
Ok.. Contact me anytime.. Keep in mind that these steering clutches are always engaged so that is why it's goes back and forth right now. If you put it under load and the tracks don't stall they are gripping good. (push the brake pedal on the right in to see if engine strain) But first I think you have to tighten the brake adjusting nut on it to get a result here. If when you hvae your brakes adjusted and when pulling a lever they don't stop a track but lug the engine down then you have a problem with them not releasing. Talk again soon.
mcbike57 - soooo......... if you pull back both steering levers at the same time, does it keep going? without bogging? If so two problems 1.- neither steering break is engaging or gripping and 2. - neither steering clutch is disengaging. If you put it under a load, like drop the blade or up against a large tree, then pull back both steering levers at the same time and it still does not disengage got to check to be absolutely certain the steering clutch hydraulic spools are being pushed in when pulling back on the levers. Check steering clutch hydraulic pressure, there are two ~ 1/8" npt plugs on the underside of the steering clutch spool valve body where pressure can be measured, it should be ~ 215 PSI when spools are depressed, if that checks out then...... I would have to say both steering clutch packs may be rusted together and not releasing or (rare) clutch yolk bearings (similar to throw out bearing) are completely disintegrated (one of my clutch yolk bearings let loose last summer) I replaced both which was quite a project, had to make a special tool. From what you describe it sure sounds like neither break band is adjusted or somehow not engaging. Even if the clutches are not disengaging the breaks should as it is a direct mechanical connection through linkage to the break bands. Good luck with it.... Take the seat and seat plate out, then the floor plate so you can get a real good look in there to see what is going on.
When both steering levers are pulled completely back the machine will stop. No bog, no pull, it will stop. See where you are going with this. Will dig in and check it out. Thank You for the insight and reply!
mcbike57, That is good news, both steering clutches are dis engaging . That leaves the issue to be neither steering break is catching. Got to tighten up those nuts under the caps in the back. I think you might have mentioned earlier that you tired tightening those nuts? (could be the threads are badly rusted?). Try again, this time (with the engine off) have someone pulling back all the way on the left lever, then start tightening (CW) the left nut until the lever starts going forward, then go about 1 more turn. Do the same on the right. The goal is to make sure the clutches disengage first, then the breaks start catching so as to stop one track at a time so it turns (steers) one way of the other. A word of caution - do not, and I really mean do not unscrew those break thension nuts out (CCW) off the threaded shaft or you will be taking apart the entire back end and removing the steering clutch case cover to fish the shaft back through the break actuator mechanism a real PITA. Been there done that 4 times. Once to replace both steering clutches and break bands, then a couple years later to replace the steering clutch release yolk bearings.
Been kind of dead around here so here goes...... Hard to believe 12 years have passed since acquiring my hobby Dozer. This forum seems to be a good place to document and archive the maintenance history of my D20A-6. Perhaps also an inspiration to look for maintenance opportunities of your own. With all that said here goes with an update on the “Little Dozer that could”: The Winter of 18-19 set in and not much to do outside with the dozer so I decided to do some preventive maintenance and restoration of the entire cooling system, then the exhaust. But before all that I pulled the steering clutches out (for the second time) only this time to replace the steering clutch yolk bearings. Sorry no pics of that project, that's why she is still up on blocks. Back to the cooling system..... First was to drain the radiator, loosen hose clamps and a wire for the head lamps. After that I rigged up a winch on my scissor lift to remove the entire front cowling with radiator attached. The front cowling (that's what I call it) is held on by eight bolts, four on each side. It is amazingly simple to remove the entire assembly with radiator attached, just need a means of lifting it up and out of the way. First couple of pics show the front cowling assembly removed the radiator is attached to the cowling.
After removing the radiator from the cowling, the cowling was cleaned up, sanded, primed with Red Rust-Oleum, then Gray Primer then the finish coat. While the Alkyd Enamel was trying to cure, the radiator was taken to a local radiator shop to be rod-ed out, flushed, pressure tested then painted.
While the Radiator was at the rad shop in Albuquerque, NM, the water pump was removed and replaced with a brand new one from Amazon. Amazing to get a brand new water pump off Amazon for a very reasonable price. The old one will get rebuilt sometime this summer for a spare or re-sale. A new 82*c thermostat was installed at the same time.
Radiator took a week - those guys took their sweet old time but did a great job, its as good as new. Got it reattached to the cowling, hooked up to the scissors lift then "drove" it over to the Dozer, lowered it down, then bolted it all up just like that (all by myself).
Now its time to install and re-connect the hydraulic fluid heat ex-changer and hoses...... after that clean up the hood and paint the underside of that rust bucket. Its too darn cold to paint any more. It has been in the singe digits early in the mornings and teens in the afternoons. I will give the entire dozer a paint job when it warms up this spring, summer or fall, you get the idea - basically with I get to it. In the last pic you can tell my supervisor is well pleased with the results while at the same time keeping my ride back to the house warm and cozy.
Its time to go to turn-in for the evening, will post next on the new Smoke stack a.k.a muffler tomorrow night. here is a teaser....
GuglioLS, First, Thank You for the helpful info. Really appreciate it. Now here is what has happened since then. Bought new brake bands and a full set of steering clutches. Popped the tops and found that the last person in had either not hooked the rear finger up to the brake bands or someone had done just what you warned against. Pulled brake/steering drums. Right side was very rusty and showed significant wear. Left side was a lot better in appearance, but also showed significant wear. Cleaned up and installed new bands and clutches. Blade lift spool packing was really spewing fluid out the top. Installed new packing, but made the mistake of pulling the control rod up to far. Now I have to pull the spools and figure out what got loose (detent ball most likely). I have worked on stuff for the most of my life usually with good results, but it seems like everything I do of late gets bungled some way or another. Again Thank You for the great advice/info. By the way, nice dozer, nice shop.[/QUOTE]
mcbike57, I was wondering what was happening with your steering system troubleshooting and repair. Sounds like your got that under control. Are the steering case covers back on? If so I was wondering if you have any tricks getting that control rod hooked into the front break band fingers while at the same time threading the other end of the shaft through the tension adjuster AND while all that is happening suspending the case cover just enough so you can actually do all that and see its all going back together correctly? Ive done it 4 times (2 on each side) and that part never gets any easier. I am getting to be sort of an expert taking it all apart, rotating the tracks while unbolting the clutch / break drum bolts etc. The part i never look forward to is getting the case covers back on and have all the break linkages lined up. I fiddle with that part of it for hours, which is much longer than taking the entire system apart. Seems like the alignment of all the planets and stars needs to be just right for it to "fall into place". Holding your tongue just right while uttering a few choice 4 letter words and certain hand gestures has never made it any easier. Bummer about the jacked up spool - sorry about that. Hopefully there is a screw cap cover that holds a detect ball and spring. I have no doubts you will get that corrected. Thank you for the compliments on my man cave. Post some pictures!!!
Actually my shop mechanic installed the clutches and brake bands. Took the right side out first. Learning curve. Getting the brake bands hooked up was a bit of a trick. He hooked pin on the rod onto the front finger first. Sat top down and hooked the finger on the rear. Then the brake adjust rod was not thru the hole. Took a hooked prybar and hooked to the front pin and pulled the brake band back enough so as to start the adjuster nut on the rod. Left side was a little bit more of a pain because of fuel tank drain and something else that was in the way. Pulled the spool off yesterday and pulled the spool rod out today. According to the breakdown I have there are supposed to be 2 ball bearings in the lower section that bolts on the bottom of the spool body. Took mine apart and only one ball bearing plus there seems to be fewer pieces in that same section on mine than in the breakdown. The three pieces indicated in your pic are where they should be and do not interfere with the movement of the spool rod. Could find no reason for the rod be stuck. Now I am afraid to put it back together until I can get some verification that it is correct or not. Oh boy!
Yep sounds about right. Its a fishing expedition getting that break actuator put back together properly. It is literally doing 4 things at the same time and you can barely see if its all together correctly. I wound up tying a string to the rod to fish it through and used a bore scope camera to peek inside. I wonder how the factory ever put them together? A little Blue Smurf would sure come in handy. Glad at least that part is back together. Good luck with the hydraulic spool no doubt you will get that fixed up good as new. Keep us posted.......
Try and establish with certainty if there is second ball . Could do some expensive damage
Blocking past in the posts I found a link to k-part.com. Appears to be Russian? maybe? and found the parts that I think are missing. Rather than try to buy them from that site (accepts paypal) I have asked Darin Mitchell first via email contact and as much as I dislike doing so (as I am a small business owner and have received many inquiries similar to my own) I am going to call a Komatsu Dealer for the parts/advice/insight into this. Here we go I did look very hard for the second/small ball. There is no way that it migrated into the spool body with the construction/assembly of the spool in its entirety. Have also closely examined the lower portion that should contain both balls. In the breakdown it shows the main ball loaded under a spring with the small second ball on the side? Where does this little jigger go exactly? Is it located in one of the holes that are aligned around the holder or is it located in the two aligned holes on the top portion of the holder. I am also missing two spacers which are located top and bottom on the big spring in this bottom piece. I am sure the factory business was figured out and had some neat little tools to take care of it.
Called Komatsu dealer in Louisville KY today. Parts guy was very friendly. Told me he did not know where the little ball bearing went or what its function was, he just sold parts. Ordered ball bearing and the 2 missing spacers. In the meantime Darin Mitchell had been trying to establish contact with me after I had emailed him about same. After playing phone tag we connected by email. Darin told me that there are actually three of those little bearings and they fit in the three holes that are evenly spaced around the body of the little piece. Smack forehead! Since I have worked on Japanese motorcycles, atvs and utvs for over 30 years I got a little drawer full of ball bearings. Quickly dug out three that fit the holes, but will further measure and make sure they are correct. The little bearings seem to work to center the piece they go in and the big ball bearing that fits inside is shoved in after a rather stiff spring. It seems to contact the little bearings to force them out to keep the piece centered. Now if I can figure out what the whole piece does? I think it has to do with blade float since there is no fluid actually going thru the piece. While it is frustrating to not be able to play with my new (to me) toy it is satisfying to get something sorted out right. By the way, the two little collars that were missing are apparently nowhere in the US. O D the parts guy in Louisville told me they would be on a plane out of Tokyo tonight. Also If you ever need Komatsu parts that have to come from Komatsu I recommend that you call the dealership in Louisville and ask for O D in parts. Anybody have any suggestions as to a good seat for this little dozer? Thanks.