What do those of you that install septic tanks consider flat or level? I somehow missed on a septic tank and pump chamber and set them half an inch low on the outlet side. I've never had one this far off and it really bugs the heck out of me because I always hand dig the bottom to get it perfectly flat and level. I still can't figure out where I went wrong when I leveled the floor of the hole.
Its why you need a laser lever you can get the tank perfect but remember the tanks are going to settle no matter what. We still use the concrete ones they are two piece with the tar strip around the edge. You don't want too much slope on the septic tank towards the outlet as you can have it so the solids aka turds and toilet paper get into the pump chamber. The only thing you want in the pump chamber is the brown gravy with the corn floating on top :laugh Like I said depending on how good the ground condtions are you will get settling. The biggest thing is getting the proper levels for the outlet and inlet pipe that goes bettween the honey tank and pump chamber.
Quick question for you guys, how much gravel do you put in the floor of the tank hole? I've never had to dig for a tank, I've worked on a couple drain field laterals, but haven't done anything with the tanks themselves. Thanks guys.
If your working in real soft conditions where you need to beef up the soil and use a plate compactor then you dig the poor quality dirt out build up the bottom of the hole to where you need it. Take your time digging the hole so you don't over dig also if your using a mini excavator say a 11,000lb size machine make sure you dig the farthest away area first so you don't run out of reach. A laser level works good because you can get the hole floor pretty level its you should have a 4' level with you for leveling the tank. Concrete tanks are harder to deal with a plastic tank is easier to deal with I never did any plastic tanks just concrete ones. Most new install septics are pressurized that use a pump to push the stinky water through the plastic pipe. To install septic you need to be certified installer for this area you take responsibility for the whole thing even if it fails 10 years down the road. Most systems are in the 30,000 range its very very rare a old conventional gravity feed system is used now. You need a leaching field the size of a football field. The new systems use a C-33 septic sand is supposed to grab the effluent water and a biological activity is supposed to-do the rest.
I'll usually just over dig about ~6" then throw some utility sand in the hole and hop in with a rake and laser level. If you prepped it right like you say i doubt it was your fault, either its just how the tank settled, or, did you set it yourself? could have drug one end of the tank into the ground when setting it.
Like they already said, the tank probably dug in when it was being set. A half inch shouldnt really hurt it as long as the T is there to prevent the solids from going by. Who uses the e z flow systems? What do you think about them?
I don't do septic work alone but I have doen jobs before and helped excavate etc. I have seen tanks be out by more then that. Even leveled perfectly at teh bottom, they were off. Never seemed to bother an inspector. Doesn't sound like it will affect operation and it will probably move around more then that in its lifetime anyway.
You really do need two people to set a septic tank while the company that delivers the tank sets it for you. Most septics are done with mini excavators up to 18,000lbs because they can do a cleaner job. The problem is the mini's really can't lift half of a tank and set it. Its okay if you have a bigger machine on site but usually you don't. When you have the truck set the bottom half you check it for level if its good then put down the tar strip and put the top half of the tank on.
I'll dig about 2" deeper and throw some gravel or septic sand in the bottom an rake it out and check it with a laser level. Raking it out, we'll get it almost perfect. It doesn't take that much time to do it. After the tank is set, we'll throw a level on it to double check it. We've had the truck drivers that deliver the tanks tell us that they have never seen someone bed the bottom of the hole with sand or gravel. They told us stories about when they stick the tank in the hole and check it with a level, they'll pick it back up and have guys throw rocks or bricks under it to level it out. It is amazing how these people can function in life.
I like the idea of over digging a couple of inches and using sand to bring it back up to grade. They actually recommend using three inches of sand if you have rock in the bottom of the hole to protect the tank. It sounds like some of you are still able to use the single chamber septic tanks, but we're required to use the two chamber tanks. The solids settle in the first chamber and the effluent ends up in the second chamber. If it's a pump system, there's a second single chamber tank that receives the effluent and is then pumped from there. It gives you a lot more reserve capacity in the event of a pump or system failure.
If the mound is close to the house, we will use a 3 compartment combination tank. One compartment for solids, 2nd for juices and the 3rd for the pump. If it is a long run, we will use a 2 compartment tank near the house and use a 2nd single compartment tank near the bed for a dosing tank.
i sure wouldn't worry about 1/2" off level on a septic tank
Everybodys rules are different for the soil types in the area with us there is no real soil depth to dig into most systems have a raised field. The black infiltrators are pretty well standard on all drain fields. One thing I forgot was and I got in **** for it when I started was make sure there is no rocks under the septic tank its easy to accidently knock one into the hole from you climbing down into the hole. A rock could crack the bottom of a tank something like a 6" diameter rock that can't sink into the ground. I don't like doing septic systems they are not a money maker for a contractor I didn't go to septic system school to get certified. I'am not good with working with pipes either I always either cut the end crooked or I cut it too short or I'am too slow and the glue is drying before I get the pipe in the right position.
Funny you say that. A landscaper here just sold off all his stuff to devote totally to septic work. He has no experience. I can't wait to see what happens.
What?! You guys have to be certified? We have to have an engineer come out and design the system, then we install it to their specs, but I can't image myself personally being certified when I have an engineer design it for me. Honestly, I'd rather not do septic, but I know there's going to come a day where I'm going to have to figure it out.
There is two options the owner of the company is a certified installer and he oversees the employees doing the work and he puts his name to it. The other option is hire the engineering company that does septic systems they do all the pipe work and the excavation contractor is just there to do the digging he has no responsibility for the system its the engineering company. The schooling was expensive and time consuming but after it you are a certified installer. A contractor that isn't certified isn't legal to do a septic system.
I talked to the designer today and it turns out the tank style we're using can be out a full inch end to end. Even with this much room for error, I think I'll over dig from now on and add a couple inches of sand. It'd be less than a yard of sand and it would be a lot easier to level and get er done right. I'm licensed to install (designers also have to be licensed) systems in our county, but it wasn't something I intended to do full time. I was more interested in the customers building homes that needed someone to do everything from clearing the land to installing their septic system. I've talked to a lot of potential customers that really don't want to work with dozens of contractors to get their home built. With all the development going on around here though, I'm thinking about going into septic full time. It's good money and good installers stay very busy around here.
Is there any way to find out if you need to be certified in your county? I don't know anyone out here that is, maybe it isn't required in my county? The only reason I'd become certified (if need be) is to do as DK mentioned, be a one stop shop for customers who want everything done by one contractor.
First of all,a concrete tank is not a precise piece of work.It is a casting,and it has minor flaws--flaws that don't matter though.You are not building a piano here by any means.A half inch is absolutely nothing--all is well.As far as importing some nice granular material,I have never done that in 32 years--NOT necessary---what would it accomplish? If you can't figure out how to level up the floor,no matter how bad the conditions are--you should'nt be in this biz.And all i need is a 4' level and a tape to set my grade--don't need fancy here--save the lazer for larger leveling jobs.Septics around here are quite lucrative,especially the redo's and thank the big man there is no licensing or certifying around here--I have all I can handle educating these board of health inspectors who were canned from private engineering companies.
The first thing the contractor has to do for this area is do a perk test to see how well the soil drains. The next step is the property needs two drain field sites so if the first drain field fails 10 years down the road you have another area to use. If the ground doesn't perk good then the calculations start on what type of system you need and how expensive its going to be usually around 30,000 dollars maybe more. The C-33 septic sand isn't cheap because it needs to be washed so many times and be clean. I forget the price per ton but you have no choice its required for most septic systems. The rules and regs are getting more strict because the gov't wants to take the blame off of them for a failed septic system and put it on the contractor.
Cascade - Call your county health department and ask them if you need a license to install septic systems in your county. I know all the counties around me require installers to have a installers license. Our county and a couple of adjacent counties actually require a lengthy test and you must pass to get your license. I'm actually glad there's some oversight of septic designers and installers or we probably wouldn't have any water around that's fit to drink.
It's very possible that in my area there isn't any cert required at all, because like I said I don't know anybody that has one. Now, that doesn't make it right if they are required, but you'd think I'd know at least one person that has one if it was required. I will call the dept. when I get a minute and find out what the deal is. The joke of it is, our town is small enough that most everyone is covered through sewer, so not much septic is actually put in, but it does exist outside city limits and it's something I need to be prepared for, if necessary.
You have to be certified in my county. Is it just me or are septic guys about biggest bunch of complainers out there? For the most part, throwing a septic system in around here is a piece of cake, maybe 2 days work. the couple guys ive meet in my area that do it make it seem like they are gonna mobilizing the troops and moving in, they dont want anyone else on site, wont take a dumptruck down a 12 foot wide driveway (granted it was a 24% grade and backing around a corner with a 20 foot drop on one side, but we had already had dumptrucks, concrete trucks, and pump trucks down the same road no problem whatsoever), wont take their 160 kobelco in the mud cause they think they will get it stuck. they charge an arm and a leg they should just get er done and move onto the next job. we try to have them there as little as posible we try to do all the excavating and just have them do the pipe we arent certified.
i'm amazed that you don't need a license in some areas thats just scarey........ i'm thinking of asking about the process to obtain my license,but the rules change so much its constant learning.i'm told the inspector will stay with u now as u dig a trench,and he gets in (hopefully he knows its under 4' haha) and examines the soil type and says yes or no on if u can continue sounds nice if yer bidding by that job not by the hour but i'm not sold on that method yet.average system around here is around $25,000 now cascade if u got yer installers license and suddenly yer area went that route guess who's getting alot more work for his 312 :wink2
Don't need to be licensed to install or design a system in my area. If you design one, then it needs to be approved by the sewage officer. We can do a average sandmound in 3 days. The hard part is getting all of the material there. The average sandmound in my area cost around $10,000.
It sounds as if in the areas being mentioned requiring certification that the contractor is also acting as an engineer. That's not the case here in my area and we are not required to be certified. Systems must be designed by a licensed engineer, which are then approved by the County Health Department. The contractor receives the approved plans and builds to them. Before the system can be backfilled, it must be inspected by the health department. This is only required on new installations, repairs or rebuilds require none of this.
The new rules for the contractors here is they get certified then they can design and install systems. There is no gov't inspectors anymore the gov't wants to take any blame off of them and put it onto the contractor. So if somebodys septic system contaminates a creek or some how it gets into a drinking well its the contractors fault. In actuallity its better on one way the home owner doesn't have to wait for months and months for a city inspector to approve the plans and come look at the site.
If your city inspectors are anything like the guys here they werent doing any good anyways. :bash
Now the inspector is only in charge of potable water and other issues around that. The new rules do limit who you can do septic systems now unless you hire a engineering company that specializes in septic and hire your prefered contractor to do the digging. With the building lots being in tougher areas you need to have a person that knows how to set up the newer style drain fields and septic tanks.
I have installed at least 2000 -3000 septic systems here in Newfoundland the last 40 years . I had to become certified by Gov. in order to design a septic system for a home owner. The design has to be approved by Gov. before you can get a permit to construct a house . After the system is installed , it has to be inspected by Gov. before backfilling . As to the tank being out of level , being out a 1/2 in means absolutely nothing . A concrete tank will work flawlessly at a 45* angle towards the outlet or at the angle that the bottom of the baffle becomes level with the bottom of the outlet pipe . The only difference is reduced capacity . As stated before most concrete tanks are two piece , tank and 5 " slab as a cover and a rubberized seal between. I always try to get my installs level because some of the nerds coming out of college that have a piece of paper and is my inspector have no more idea of how a septic works that I know about going to the moon. So when I install and my outlet and inlet are correct and the cover is still off , I pry up the cover to attain level by placing a couple of little stones under the cover . Inspector comes , he's satisified , when he's gone i remove the stones and let the cover settle down again . I have not had a failure in 40 years . We use 1 1/2 " washed stone(20 tons) in leach bed with a min. of 200 ft of perf. pipe . I must be in the wrong country as we can only get $5000.00 to supply and install and design septic systems .
no s** t????????
Good info
Perfectly appropriate.Sorry you don't see the humor in it.