Hello all, I think the title pretty much covers it, I am looking for the length of the thumb I would need for this machine. the reason is, I dont have the machine yet, but would like to get a head start on getting the thumb. I see one advertised with a 24" long thumb piece which seemed like it would be the closest for a machine with a tooth bucket on a quick coupler. if anyone knows this off hand it would be much appreciated thanks
I don't know specific measurements but just make sure that when the thumb closes, the teeth mesh well with the bucket teeth. Don't get a thumb that when it closes, it over hangs and sits in front of the bucket teeth, or is spread too wide so that it clamps DOWN on the bucket teeth.... This is a picture of a members machine, after market thumb by HPF here in WA State....that fits pretty well, teeth on the thumb may be a tad long for me but I'd choose this over some of the other crap I've seen.
thanks for the tips and picture, I was just hoping to get a line on a thumb, or at least start making one before I take delivery of the machine this week. and I need to find out how long of a thumb I need. 24" sounds about right, but it would be nice to hear from someone that has a 135 with a thumb and a quick coupler on their machine this would most likely be a weld on unit that attaches to the stick, not using a longer bucket pin
Man if your gonna make a hydraulic thumb, or even buy one, get it so it shares the main pin. When you pick something up and then realize you need to curl in or out to put it where you want it you just hold pressure with the thumb and bucket and they follow the same geometry to whatever position you need. This may sound a little confusing if you havent used a hydraulic thumb, but trust me sharing the main pin is the way to go.
I havent used a thumb before, but I understand the principles.. it seems like sharing the bucket pin would be the best option for sure, but I was worried about the added cost, and wasnt sure where to source out a custom pin and bosses for this, and how it would work with the quick coupler. maybe I should just wait and decide after I get the machine and use it for a bit
Go to united rentals and look at their 135's they have a cp q/a and a thumb that shares the pin and they can get all those parts from cp
unfortunately I dont have a united rental place near me, I think I should probably just wait until I get the machine and decide then. I was hoping to do this on a budget, and most of the professionally made thumbs are alot more than I want to pay. maybe I can get by without it, or try a mechanical thumb
what are you going to use the thumb for? demo? or excavation?
Wolf you are really into demo. Do you run a demo business, or work for one?
thanks for noticing it. yeah, man, totally into it, and love to buy cool stuff that is coming out of old buildings that other guys are wrecking. let me know if you come across anything interesting in your neck of the woods. thanks, bro.
the thumb will be used for excavation mostly, moving stumps and boulders. and moving brush and logs. maybe used in a little demo, but only of small wood buildings. so it wont need to be a super heavy duty one. thats why I thought I could get away with a cheaper stick mounted one with its own pins
What kind of quick coupler are you getting? The thumb that mini max has wasn't that expensive in my opinion. If you're going to be doing a lot of thumb work I wouldn't go with a mechanical thumb. They're ridiculous. If you have a lot of work for the hoe then that should eventually pay for the thumb no problem. Thumbs are a huge asset to trackhoes.
I own a TB 135 with a Thumb and quick connect. I WOULD NOT GET ANOTHER THAT SHARES THE SAME PIN. My previous machine was a TB 025 with a stand alone weld-on hydro thumb. I liked it much better. It had a bigger bite to pick up large rocks etc.... and the pin didn't wear as bad. Having the thumb on the same pin puts force from several directions simultaniously on that pin. I have broken 2 pins in 3 years so far. They wear very fast, that, and the pin and thumb are so wide I cannot run a narrow bucket. Just my 2cents, but having owned one I found that I liked the weld-on better. I may convert mine over to weld on to avoid further issues. Also, the pic posted of the thumb and bucket above I would not recommend that set-up. I like my teeth on the bucket to meet the teeth on the thumb. Picking up small objects works better if you can crush them between teeth. It gives you much more control. Bypassing teeth doesn't allow you the agility to pick up tiny stuff. JMHO. I'll find the thread about my machine and post a link.
Here's the thread. Here's where I got my two thumbs and all my extras. http://www.mcfaulkner.com/
I disagree with atgreene about pin mount or weld on thumbs.I have seen 3 weld on thumb rip the bottom of the stick out on mini-x's.That pic of the thumb that coopers posted is my thumb and you have much more control of what you picking up,if you are pulling out a 4" tree you can put the tree between the bucket teeth and close the thumb a get a realy good bite.I can pull ground rods out with clamping the rod between the thumb and bucket edge. If you are breaking bucket pins, the pins are to soft or you are putting lots of side way force on the thumb or bucket. minimax
From what I have read here over the past month I really see great networking between all of you to everyones advantage. Being a newbie to this site and equipment I210 started and have worked in the heavy truck industry for over 10 years not being able to start my own post I have a question in regards to the demension of the end of stick attaches to my bucket on my tb 135 what is the width and the pin size that attaches the bucket. Any response would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Fred, THanks for the info I will give him a call.
I broke another main pin last week on my thumb/bucket. The manufacturer (Mcfaulkner) says that that style pin has been drilled horizontally to get grease intot he center. Due to the size of the hole drilled it is prone to breaking (one a year for me). He has another style pin that is solid and he adds the grease fitting to the outside of the boom. I'm going to have the solid pin installed soon and while he has it look at changing my thumb out and moving it to it's own pin. If all the hydro pressures are set properly there is no way to break a bucket or a thumb. As for where the teeth hits, when I use my thumb and fingers to pick up a pen, I squeeze the pen between my finger and thumb, not between the web of my fingers. Trying to pick up rocks by sqeezing them into the space between your bucket teeth is ackward. Tried it and we re-made the bucket so the thumb fingers met the bucket fingers. Whatever works for you, but having tried both I prefer fingers, I can pick up much smaller objects that way.
ATGreene Thanks for the info, after reading and seeing your pictures in the past and myself being very small at this time I can not afford broken parts and down time for potential unreliabilaty. Another quick question for on your TB135 do you have the long arm or short arm? I am curious when you get a good amount of dirt in the 36" grading bucket how that unit handles it or do you have to be cautious on how much dirt you bail with it?
I have the short arm. And mine is bent slightly. I can't imagine the long-arm, with the power these things exert at the teeth you can twist the end of the boom. A long arm would be worse, of course I do a lot of stone work as well as a lot of stumping. I'm not complaining about the twist, obviously I grabbed something I shouldn't have at some point, and the machine has some massive break-out force. As for a long-arm and the 3' clean-up bucket, you will tilt the machine. I was screening loam yesterday and had to be careful with mine as the machine will tilt if you set the bucket out too far. You just have to be aware and know to expect when. I wouldn't go any narrower though, maybe shallower, but no narrower than 3'. Good luck.
That is what I was afraid of I have a long arm on mine and the type of work I have been doing I am going to need one shortly along with a good disconnect and start standardizing my attachments. Thanks for the info
I didn't think that the dipper arms would be able to twist. I would of thought that providing you are not silly with say a 2 foot bucket or larger then you shouldn't be able to twist a dipper arm be it long or short - but as said earlier even when trying to be careful just a millimetre of wrong positioning apparently can result in twisting.
I think my twist came from using the bucket to pry out stumps and rocks. If one tooth on one side of the bucket grabs and you curl to put pressure upward on the teeth by pressing the rear of the bucket into the ground it appears to cause a twist on the boom. Something to be aware of, the machines are very powerful on the bucket curl, enough so to exceed the strength of the boom.
Has any one had any experience with a second relief valve in the Gehl 503z the machine is not destroking ang killing the motor. need help