Recently picked up this dozer/snow plow blade. Originally, I picked it up mainly for my wife to use in the skid steer as she wants to help me out, while I plow with the backhoe. I had heard what a disappointment the dozer blade would be on the skid steer but totally disagree with that assessment as I was able to cut 4 to 6” of packed gravel and completely reshape about 100 yards in a half hour, just screwing around. I had planned to get a cushion valve or pressure relief block and probably a flow control as it’s a bit violent on the pivot. I usually use my Kubota with a back blade to keep my driveway in shape but the turning my head and back usually kills me for a few days. I am totally in love with this dozer blade, that I need to be able to switch from a 1300 psi +or- for snow plowing and switch back to original psi, whatever it is in the auxiliary hydraulics, to be able to keep the power angle for dozing. I have taken measurements of the original banjo fitting on the hydraulic cylinder so i can get adapters to a JIC or NPTF fittings, so that I can make up hoses to the cushion valve and then to the quick connects. The original quick connects are British straight I believe, so I will replace those to something I will have fittings for. I am looking for suggestions on how to plumb this. I don’t believe I will be able to find a valve block that will have a bypass, though I haven’t looked yet. I need to be able to switch from plow to dozer on the hydraulics. I suppose I could put a T on the cylinder adapters and have a long set of hoses, with quick connects for the dozer and and a separate set of hoses to the cushion valve. Unfortunately this will require more quick connections and hoses hanging around. I would rather have it look a bit cleaner than that. Any suggestions? I make my own hoses and the originals are 5/16”. I don’t have 5/16” hose or dies, so i will downsize to 1/4”, which will be fine as speed it not an issue.
Nothing? Anyone know of a pressure relief valve block with a priority lever or maybe 2 Tees with a couple of ball valves right before the cushion block? I need to order the adapters for the banjo fittings, so I would like to order whatever I need for the plumbing.
Bump!
Make a pair of rigid beams you can pin in place from the quick-connect frame to the dozer blade rib. Remove them for snow plowing. Pin them in place for dozer work. Get fancy and use a cylinder or actuator to insert the pin in the fixed brace.
That blade looks like it is designed for snow clearing not any kind of digging.
While the pictures may be deceiving, it’s definitely heavy enough for pushing dirt. I was able to cut into and shape 100 yards of packed gravel driveway and wasn’t even working the skid hard. Dmoney, you have completely lost me. I want to be able to run a cushion or independent pressure relief valve for snow plowing, so I can tear stuff up. I also want to be able to just run off the auxiliary hydraulic relief so I can push dirt or gravel when I want. I also need a flow control as it moves left and right, too fast, you have to slowly move the auxiliary hydraulic controls or it slams back and forth. At the moment, the only plan is to replace the original 5/16” hy line with the banjo fitting, to something I can make and replace when needed, to 1/4” Then putting tee’s before a flow control and pressure relief or cushion valve. Then making separate lines from the tee’s to the quick connects. One set, directly to the quick connect and one set from the cushion valve, to the quick connections. Just wondering if anyone has a better way to plumb it. Not sure why i would want to pin it, that’s where you lost me.
Could you just use flow restrictors in the lines? Would be much simpler than a flow control.
Yes, I can make and have made flow restrictions for air and hydraulics for years but I happen to have quite a few hydraulic flow controllers around. I don’t have a Summit cushion block or pressure relief block and I make my own hydraulic lines so trying to do this somewhat cheap. Just trying to decide if I have to have multiple hydraulic lines or multiple hydraulic quick couplings.
...it's the end of July, a heatwave, and we are discussing snowplows ?
Well, just like the door I have to make for it. It all goes on a list of things to get done. Right now, I’m putting strapping on a 16’x8 1/2’ deck addition with a metal roof. Unfortunately it’s in the sun and it’s stupid hot, hot enough to cook my brain and almost fall off the ladder and kicking the baker staging out from underneath me. Finish up tomorrow,in the early AM. Still trying to figure out the damn plumbing without quick connections and or hoses all over the place. Wonder if Summit sells a pressure relief block, with a knob for adjusting pressure. That might be a bit cleaner. The original auxiliary hydraulic pressure relief is not readily accessible.
You probably want to be careful doing heavy pushing with the blade especially pushing on the corners. The cylinders might not take the force if the blade isn't up against a stop/angled all the way. A skid steer dealer here used to make their own HD angle blades and said it's best to angle all the way to put the stress on the frame not the cylinders.
The purpose of buying this was for a snowplow, the fact that I can use it to regrade and touch up the 770’ of gravel driveway, is a bonus. Therefore, since it can do some heavy lifting, I want to take advantage of it. If I break something on it, I will just fix it, that’s what having lathes and mills and welders, is all about. Along with the ability to use them very well. Though I do want to put a cushion valve in it for snow plowing as that’s when it’s most suspecting of damage. To the machine, or my garage or house or granite borders.
It is. We had one, built with butter soft steel. lasted 1 winter... barely. I had put an orifice for it angling too fast.
I’m sure it will be quite fine for a personal drive way and occasionally used as a touch up blade for my driveway, you negative Nellie’s. lol
If it works it works. If it breaks it breaks. Not everybody can afford all the latest heavy duty equipment.
Maybe a diverter valve to a 1300psi cross over relief valve that you can T your cushion valve in to. That won’t be very cheap but it’d get you what you want. But you would have to add the electrical controls and wires out to the blade as well. I like the summit hydraulics website, they have some neat and inexpensive add on valves. Inexpensive compared to bigger brands that is. Seems like you’d have enough room for all that componentry on the back of the blade and you can build a guard for it.
Well, for 700 bucks, I certainly don’t expect a higher end dozer blade but for what I will use it for, it should be fine. Unfortunately, I will spend that same amount of money on a cushion valve and quick connectors. The hoses, I make myself. The tee’s will be some money also. I just don’t want a rats nest of hoses and stuff. So I figure new lines from the 2 way cylinder, with appropriate adapters from the obviously metric banjo fittings. Then a couple of needle valves for speed control, to 2 tee‘s, with one side of each tee plumbed directly into the cushion block. Then a set of quick connectors at the other open tee ports and another set at the cushion block. With one set of hoses that can alternate between the open tee ports that is full auxiliary hydraulic pressure, for the dozer blade. Or hook the hoses to the cushion block for 1250/1300 PSI for snowplowing. Sounds like a lot of crap. Am I thinking of this correctly?
Not sure who.sold it to.you as a dozer blade, but it's 100% a Chinese snow plow. Not sure who actually makes them, but they're all over the place, same design, maybe slight differences. We had trouble with the blade trip not being anywhere strong enough. Also the quick tach plate wouldn't fit one machine... that everything else we have fit fine. Forgot if it was the TR270 or S250, it's been 5-6 years. Angled the blade was barely track width, so windrows were partially under the tires or tracks.. or you ended up off the road edge and getting sucked into the ditch. I forget what finally broke that sent it to the junk pile. Want to say whole cutting edge ripped off or something with the mold board. I wasn't using it or involved with that operation. I know the cylinders leaked bad after just a few weeks of use. Was used clearing a small paved farm road, maybe 600-700ft long, barely 2 lanes, a maybe 1/2 acre parking area and a bit behind the shop... maybe another 1/4 acre or so... and usually we don't get much snow. Only 3.5-4ft total a winter is average. Gentle use as a snowplow should be OK. It'll definitely not hold up to pushing dirt. No idea how the steel is blended, but even welding repairs was "off". Pockets of "junk" in it. The design looks decent, nothing screams terrible build, but the steel quality is the main problem. I bought what I thought was a sturdy inverted wood splitter from same outfits making those plows. It lasted 5 mins before bending to the point it's junk. 1/2 and 3/4" steel bent like it was 1/8" It's like it's missing something in the steel blend that gives strength... probably something expensive
Not trying to rain on you're parade either. Rather hoping you understand I've been there, done that, and flushed away that $$. We paid $2200 for the plow. Splitter was $1800.
Oh, I understand but it’s here now and I will deal with whatever comes down the pipe, like I always do. While I would have rather bought a used Bobcat snowplow for 1500 bucks, I ended up with this, for 700 bucks and whatever I put in it for hydraulics. I hate using my back blade on my Kubota for dressing up my driveway and I have even used my plow on the backhoe, to do it. When I put a new pipe on the cutting edge last fall, I spent an hour running it up and down the driveway, to get it bent, just right. This blade should do that, with the skid steer , right in front of me. I already ran it for a half an hour, doing that just fine. Didn’t seem to even take the paint off the cutting edge. I believe you completely, just will keep an eye on it and try to not blow it up.