hi, I'm doing some electrical work on my neighbours Case tractor, 150hp 6cyl turbo, MY 1999 Not too familiar with these bigger tractors. There is a gear stick to engage drive, then it's push button to shift etc.. He's only just got it and no manual, so a lot of unknowns here. The battery and starter had just been replaced, due to slow cranking of the engine. several batteries tried, old starter refitted etc.. There is a fault with the wet clutch which needs looked at, possibly rebuilt. question is can these clutches cause cranking issues, or what loads could be getting placed on the engine a nd slow the cranking speed. It is not starting now due to too low crank speed. main leads have been checked, others added in case of poor ground etc.. still slow to crank The flywheel turns with a flat lever, some resistance sure, but I don't know how much is the norm on this engine. a funny thing I did last night, I turned off the fuel shutoff valve power supply and crank speed increased, I would turn on the supply with a switch while the engine was cranking, did this several times, and the engine started. I thought I was onto something but back to slow regardless of shutoff solenoid position today loosened the intake hose, no restrictions found either.. any ideas??
I'm not to familiar with a Case but I'll give it a guess. Is there possibly a hydraulic pressure release switch that is activated during the starting cycle?
I does seem something like this. I have been dipping the clutch during cranking , and there is an electrical switch at the pedal. Maybe someone can comfirm if there is requirement to also hold down the foot brake on some models,as this is the root cause of the issue I was working on (4wd not disengaging)
What year and model is it?you said several batteries were tried is it a 24 volt system and hooked up as 12 volt? possible starter binding when engaged? over fueling and hydro locking? possible mechanical connection holding engine back? cable condition both +and - I have been burned by grounds,do a voltage drop test. also check amp draw on cables when cracking also load test the batteries to be sure, they may show 12 volts but have no amps under load.
Something else you can try.Move all the Hydraulic levers.I worked on a Case that had this same problem would not even start.Moved lever to let front loader down and every thing was fine.Some how lever valve was holding pressure and caused engine to crank to slow.
Can you get an amp reading when turning over the starter? New Bat and starter but are you getting the amps to the starter.
yeah went through a lot of combinations on the heavy leads, shorter direct lines from battery to starter terminals etc. 2 batteries in paralel etc.., with a second running vehicle on jumper cables.. fairly certain full current and voltage is being delivered to the starter . thought possibly coolant leak into cylinders, but coolant level is around norm, and I do get full revolutions during crankings, but very very slow. I just wanted to narrow it down to engine itself , or the engine being loaded up.
I know less than nothing about a Case tractor, but perchance does the hydraulic pump run off front of crankshaft? If so, maybe disconnect the drive to the pump, that would take hydraulics out of the equation.
cheers Willie, i'd imagine it's pump is within the rear axle casting so a split engine and box effort to remove the drive. Or possibly access through a side plate. I think removing some injectors may be next step to see if it's a cylinder issue
If it does have cylinder issues a compression test or a cylinder leakage test may show something up? You have not yet mentioned model or the make of engine in the tractor - it may help if we know.... When you say starter was replaced - new? secondhand? reconditioned?
MYear 1999, tractor model is CS 150, will check engine details tommorow starter is new, original was retried also, both behaving the same
Did you try this?
another starter motor fitted today,a different design, I think it's the geared type, more torque... started no problem
Good deal.