So I have a 7 foot snow blade quick connect, that can angle left or right and have issues plowing a gravel drive way . As the area that is being plowed is not that flat and of course as the blade is angled it does not make even contact with ground. Has any one come up with a modification that would allow the length of blade to some what float. I was thinking of some how modifying the 5 inch ware knife with springs, to allowing it to float and make even contact with ground Any thought ideas would be great thanks to all
You will not have that problem if the axis that the blade angles left or right on is plumb when you are using it. That is if your problem is the blade digging in when you angle it. If you want the blade to "float" side to side, and with it angled also, you just need the pivot pin that it angles on to be very sloppy. Worn out blade mounts follow the ground better than brand new tight blade mounts.
Can you post a picture of your setup.
yes will do but it will be a 1 too 2 week before I can thanks
I run AMI Reactor blades for snow clearing because they have lateral oscillation. Only a few inches either way, but it sure makes a difference. Depending on what weight of machine you have your blade mounted on, and your mechanical ability, you could add an oscillation plate between the mounting point and the frame of the blade. As close to the mounting point as possible. Did this with an older blade on my skidsteer.
http://hlasnow.com/blades/4000.php I have on of these and it works great. click on lateral float. will show how it pivots at quick attach plate. maybe it will give you some ideas on making yours pivot.
You can adjust the blade level when angled by raising the boom and tilting the “bucket”
Here's a picture of my setup, the chain that holds the plow allows it to float.
I have a Meyers setup like the picture above, and I wired my own controls with toggle switches. But doing that, I still had to go to the Meyer dealer and buy the one toggle switch that lifts the blade. I could not find a universal switch like it, it's a special switch. It's a double pole double throw center off switch. But it is momentary in the up position, maintained in the off and lower positions. The momentary up is to raise the blade, the center maintained is blade hold, and the lower maintained is float. Even though you have a chain that lifts the blade, the switch has to be in the maintained lower "float" position so as the blade drops the chain can pull the lift cylinder down. No need to know all this if you have the factory control box, but it's important if you are building your own controls.
You can find that type of switch at DigiKey or Mouser, for anyone else that may be looking.
I was doubtful of that so I looked on Mouser's site, and I think you may be able to get it. I did drill down to what you would need, and I ended up in some miniature switches. If you spent enough time you might be able to find a larger switch. One side of the switch activates the solenoid to turn the pump on, the other side activates the coils on the hydraulic valves. So you need a decent switch, I would say at least 10 amps. The Meyer dealer had it in stock and years ago it was about $10.00.