Picked up a 950H Loader to help with our current snow load. Lots of snow here, most I've seen since I was a kid! The loader is great, although the FNR switch doesn't work. I pulled the ECM plug off the engine and it looks great. Hoping someone has some ideas of things I could check before buying some CAT travel time. Current Codes are; 030-248.02 081-737.13 082-296.09 036-296.09 Thanks,
A few more
Serial Number..? Three of your Codes are related to data communication between the ECM's, the fourth is the peft pedal position sensor requires calibration. Do you have an Operation & Maintenance Manual for it..? If not did you know you can download one from Cat for less than $50.? Again requires a S/N to get the correct manual.
Hello Nige, yes I did get a O&M manual for it from Cat. We actually spoke about this loader, it is the JAD 00720 serial with the high ambient cooling package. Im guessing it worked at a pulp mill or something, as it is full of woodchips, everywhere!
Belly pan
I’ll send you an electrical Schematic plus some info on how to troubleshoot the codes you have. Is that list all the Codes or just the Active ones.? Try reading up on the Click Box thread, especially the last page. You can McGyver one using nothing more than some bent wire.
Electrical schematic sent. Check your PMs. I'll wait until you tell me what Codes are Active before sending the Troubleshooting procedures.
Hello Nige, I got into the joystick and it appears something is happening through the switch. I have 5 Volts appearing through the switch wires as I switch it through the modes. I looked at the click box instructions. Where would I get the adapter to fit the diagnosing socket plug? Just order it? Is the click box the next step or is there anything else I can try? I unplugged and inspected harness below the joy stick and everything looks nice and new. Thanks
FNR Switch
Can you confirm if any of the four Diagnostic Codes you menioned in your first post are Active. In other words when you scroll through the four Codes does the SERV CODE icon located to the right of the display window light up.? Make sure that the SERV CODE icon is working. It should light briefly when you first turn on the key as part of the panel self-test, then go out if you have no Active Codes.
You have not said anything about a 2274 Diagnostic Code, but if you want to eliminate a bad switch from the list of possibilities try pulling the J-2 connector from the ECM and use Table 1 at the bottom of Page 1 in the attached file to check the wiring to the Remote F-N-R switch and the state of the switch contacts. Basically the switch works by a combination of four contacts that depending on which ones are closed and which ones are open (to machine frame ground) the ECM knows whether to select F, N, or R. The problem is that the schematic does not show the internal switch contacts.
Interesting! It looks like the only active code where "SERV CODE" is illuminated is the 081 - 737.13 Code, It goes off for the other ones. I tried to post a video , but apparently its pictures only. It goes 030 0248.02 081 0737.13 SERV CODE 082 0296.09 036 0296.09 END
Unfortunately I did not get the 2274 code In the activated switch position I was able to verify 5v were getting sent from the switch. --------------------F-----N------R YL-18 FWD - 0-------5v------5v PK-18 NEU - 5v------0------5v GN-18 REV- 5v------5v------0 Please forgive my rudimentary wiring diagnosis, this isnt my day job! Thanks for your help
OK, so the left pedal position sensor (see post #3) needs recalibrating. That Code may or may nat affect the FNR switch, I simply don't know. Let me get started finding a procedure for that calibration. Meantime you crack on testing the Remote F-N-R switch using the procedure in post #11 above and advise your results. One way or another it will eliminate the switch from the diagnosis. TBH my suspicion is that the switch is most likely good in the absence of a 2274 Diagnostic Code but you need to definitively prove that beyond all doubt. Let's make it clear - you are not looking for voltage. To test the switch you are testing with the J-2 ECM connector disconnected from the ECM. You are then testing certain wire numbers in that J-2 connector and looking for specific combinations of either continuity to Ground (to machine Frame) and Open Circuit as per the table with the switch in each of the three positions. You don't need the power on to do this. Use the illustrations below referring wire colours/numbers to the Pins 40 thru 43 on connector J-2 and report your findings.
Try this procedure to reset the Automatic Calibration of the Left Pedal Position Sensor Minimum Position. See if the SERV CODE disappears from the 081.737.13 Diagnostic Code. If it does - happy daze. If not, things become a bit more complicated. Park the machine on a smooth, level surface. Shift the transmission direction control switch to the NEUTRAL position. Lower the bucket to the ground. Engage the parking brake. Turn the key start switch to the OFF position. Wait at least 30 seconds. Depress the left brake pedal to approximately the MIDPOINT position of its range of travel. (Suggest to press the pedal through its full range of travel a couple of times to establish where the MIDPOINT is). Hold the left brake pedal in the MIDPOINTposition and turn the key start switch to the ON position Hold the brake pedal at the MIDPOINT position for at least 5 seconds after turning the key ON. Release the brake pedal. Turn the key start switch to the OFF position. Wait at least 30 seconds. Turn the key start switch to the ON position. Allow the panel to self-test. Observe if the SERV CODE icon is still illuminated for the 081.737.13 Code.
Your issue with the Remote FNR Switch might be nothing more than a software configuration. I came across this info while looking for calibration information. The Remote FNR Switch is an OPTION and not all machine have it installed. A "Type 1" switch is Part # 246-2642 and mounts on the top surface of the console in the case of machines with separate control levers for bucket raise & tilt. A "Type 2" switch is Part # 303-9566 and mounts in the top of the joystick handle on machines equipped with joystick controls. Illustrations of Type 1 & Type 2 switches are shown below. You have a Type 2 switch on your machine, HOWEVER according to the Parts system it appears as though it was originally built with a Type 1 switch because the bucket controls show two separate levers for bucket raise & tilt, not a joystick. Type 1 (246-2642) Type 2 (303-9566) So here's the deal. In the Machine Configuration screen there is a selectable parameter for the Remote FNR switch. It can be set as "Not Installed", "Type 1", or "Type 2", depending how the machine is equipped. Now if the system is correct and your machine was NOT originally built with a joystick the Remote FNR Switch would have been set at the factory to either "Not Installed" or "Type 1" - I have no idea which. It needs ET to look at the Configuration screen and set that parameter to "Type 2". See illustration below.
Update - Your machine has a newer Remote FNR switch with only three wires compared to the four wires shown on the Troubleshooting Procedure I posted earlier. Your machine has no P916-OR wire in Pin 41 of connector J-2. So you only need to test continuity to frame ground of the wires in Pins 40, 42, & 43 of J-2 as per the modified circuit diagram and table below.
Awesome, Thank you for all this information! Will get some readings and post back soon.
Regarding post #15 about the left pedal. If the SERV CODE still remains after you try that procedure (do it at least a couple of times just in case) then you are going to have to get Cat out to do the calibration. After looking at the procedure it's not one for the home mechanic. If that becomes necessary I will post the procedure so that you can tell them what the serviceman needs to bring with him in order to do it successfully. Once you have tested to establish whether the Remote FNR switch (referred to as "Transmission Direction Switch #2" in the illustration in post #16) is good or not, then again the only solution is to have the dealer hook ET up to it, look at the parameter, and set it to "Type 2" if necessary. Basically a 2-minute job. If you do end up getting Cat out, make sure that:- a) He downloads a Product Status Report in pdf format before starting any calibration work or making Configuration changes. b) Clears all Logged Diagnostic Codes before closing ET. c) Clears all Logged Events before closing ET. d) Downloads a PSR showing how he left the machine. The difference between a) and d) should be all the Diagnostic Codes & Events, but it's good to have both.
Hello Again, That is very interesting about the switch not being the "as shipped" I see on there it was the lever type. In the initial machine pre-inspection before I bought the machine this was noted; "Is the machine software including Product Link & VIMS Config files current with what is published in SIS? Response : No → Transmission and product link need updated" I had the Cat shop do a 6000 hr service on it and they severely disappointed me with the lack professionalism exhibited. They charged me for repairs that were not completed and out the door up to Alaska it went! There were no SERV. CODES or others in the pre-inspection.. It was a little disappointing to say the least. It makes me wonder if they did hook up ET and updated but erased the previous data. Hard to say, anyway going forward, I think my best bet is to have a Tech come out and try the "type 2" switch and diagnose the pedal at the same time. I tried the calibration half a dozen times to no avail. Thanks again for all your help, gives me something to do while we "self quarantine"
That is why I always insist that the first thing a dealer tech does before attempting anything is to download a Product Status Report. Then if things go pear-shaped later anyone can look at what's on the machine now and compare it with the settings that were on the machine when he started. FYI - Updating generally erases previous versions of stored data, and also can erase some settings. That's why it's always SOP to download a PSR before starting so that any selectable parameters can be reconfigured after upgrading to whatever setting they had before upgrading, if that makes sense. I wasn't sure if the procedure I gave you above would fix the left pedal position sensor although I had my fingers crossed that it would. Here's the procedure for calibrating the left pedal position sensor using ET which will be the most likely way a dealer tech would do it. He will need to bring with him either a 198-4240 Digital Pressure Indicator or a 1U-5481 Pressure Gauge Group (aka transmission test box) plus the test hose kit.
Hello Again, When I'm operating this thing, the engine temp needle is about one needle mark past half. So about 5/8 on the gauge. I would think strait up would be normal position? When I stop operation it will drop to the vertical position. I was roading it the otherday going up a fairly long grade and it rose a bit higher, not quite 3/4. I pulled off and it dropped down quickly. Temp here has been around 25*F I was reading one of your earlier posts about a slow fan and plugged screen HeavyEquipmentForums I found the attatched picture of the hyd. fan drive with a screen in it, (#8) may this be the screen you were talking about getting possibly full of debris? Where is its location? Maybe its nothing, I was hoping to do some self diagnostic, then have Cat take a look at fan speed/pressure with ET when they come out. When you shut the machine down is it normal for the hydraulic fan to make a loud ish whining sound as it winds down? The selling cat dealer replaced the thermostat in the 6000 hr service, the paint on the bolts was chipped off and the cab heater lines were still closed on the waterpump, so I'm somewhat sure they did it.
Answers to your questions: - 1. Gauge needle pointing straight up is not necessarily "normal" position. This was always the old-school thinking but today not so much. 2. The whrring noise as the fan shuts down is normal. The pump that drives it has stopped, the motr driving it has a way of being able to freewheel after the oil supply to the motor stops. 3. Location of the manifold containing the screen is inside the RH chassis rail. See illustrations below. that screen is known to be a problem area if it gets plugged. Take a look at it yourself before calling Cat out if you can. If it's plugged it'll be obvious.
Any idea which fitting the screen is behind?
Under normal snowplowing operation the temp seems fine. I need to get out there and see if it will actually get hot roading, or if its just the Thermostat delaying opening or something. The Trans stays at about 1/3. Not a lot going on right now though... soon, hopefully!
Behind #8. By my calculation that ought to be right behind that 90-deg elbow on the extreme LH side of your photo.
Okay a year later I’m back tackling this issue! I had Cat ET out and switch to “type 2” unfortunately it had no effect. I did the trouble shooting to ground and found the PK-18 wire was not making continuity to ground as it should. So the next step is the switch. I ordered the 303-9566 switch, but it appeared to be the one that goes on the console next to levers. Not the joystick mounted one. I didn’t take out of the bag as it was $250 and was terrified of not being able to return. I took it back and we poured through the diagrams and only came up with the hole joystick assembly for $500! Maybe this bigger different looking one fits in there, I just need to commit and take it out of bag and try? Does anyone else out there that has a joystick that looks like this? Or one with the newer looking switch? Thanks for help on this!
Did you ever pull the J-2 connector off the ECM and check for ground or open circuit on those three pins 40, 42, & 43 using the F-N-R switch on the joystick.? The 303-9566 switch is the Type 2 "remote F-N-R switch" that fits in the panel, not in the joystick. Sorry if I steered you wrong earlier. I wrote that it fitted on the top of the joystick, it does not. It fits in the same place as the former 246-2642 Type 1 switch in the top of the panel next to the lift/tilt controls as per your 2nd illustration in the post above. I assume that you have a switch in that location.? The F-N-R switch in the joystick is not available separately, you have to buy a 277-3282 Handle As @ $500 or so.
Yes the PK-18 (J2-42) was open in fwd AND neu.(should be closed) it was closed in only reverse. The others were fine. This lead me to ordering the switch. Unfortunately it doesn’t have a spot to install it on the panel area by joystick. So I guess its the $500 joystick if I want it to work. Not sure if the convenience of not moving your left hand to shifter on column is worth $500! But sounds like that would fix it. Thanks for the info tracking this down
Based on your comment about there being nowhere to install the 303-9566 Switch on the console on your machine then only other thing I can think to try is to set the "Remote F-N-R Switch" parameter in the ET Configuration screen to "Not Installed". That would be the last throw of the dice.