What are some of the steepest slopes you guys have ever encountered?im currently working on a pond with some one to ones,the dozer is a 2007 d6n lgp.the materials are medium,hard red clay this thing sticks like glue.gimme some feedback on this one...by the way i love those slopes..... :cool2 :drinkup
Are the slopes for the fill of the pond on just the outside waterline slopes? How long or high is the fill? Are they being checked by your inspector and do they have to be right on the money? How wide are the pads on your D6N LGP>>>>> 36" or less????? How about a few pics Good luck:usa
slopes inspector yes.slope line goes from crown to base elev on pond..bout twenty feet deep..36'' standard pads
1 to 1 slopes seems really steep for a pond ! Here they are 2 1/2 to 1 and have changed over to 3 to 1 the last few years. Is there a reason for the steepness. 2 to 1 is the steepest(running sideways) i have been on with my D6R 24 inch pads.With the wide tracks and a little smaller(lighter machine it would probably hang on the slopes).You might have to run them up and down? Will you have dirt to work with as in a windrow to run done the slope to help hold you up? or do you have it closer and just shaping the slope. I know lots of question,but trying to get an idea what your having to work with.With that how much water is at the bottom or mud?Good luck.
slopes detention pond for large furniture store with very little room for pond.we cut most of the bulk dirt with my 320clu then just fine tune with 6.we tend to carry a lil dirt on bottom edge.we have a d6k that dont like the slope as much as the high track.
pond slopes :drinkup by the way pond is new and very dryyyyyyyyyyyy.no rain here in weeks
Ive run a D6H on like a 3-2 slope, it was slow going but still had traction on the high side. Our JD 450H LGP can be run on a 1 on 1 slope, if not a little more To think of it, the only time that high drive did lose traction, the whole machine slid down the hill sideways.
high track they tend to lift a track side more often then slide on dry ground.beware if its a lil wet.todabottomugo..
When land is scarce, and ever tightening restrictions requires you to build much more infrastructure per person, things get pushed to the edges, figuratively and literally.
We're talking about a 1:1 that's 45 degrees which is the angle most material falls at and you can stay on that sideways with a D6??:cool2 DP
I'd like to see somebody actually operate a cat sidehill on a 1:1 slope. I might even buy tickets and popcorn. A 2:1 is darned steep when you're in the seat. That's about the same as running over a three foot boulder with one track of a D6.
1:1 Our Cat D4g lgp will stick to a 1:1 no problem or greater if levee material is good. Run it up and down then dress it sideways.
Working on Slopes Hi, White_Boyz1. 1:1 is a steep slope for a dam or pond but I suspect that this one won't have livestock drinking from it so that slope won't be a problem that way. It has always been my understanding that spill slope for most soils is around 1.5:1. When compacted, many soil types will stand at closer to 1:1 as you build a batter up from the bottom. I also understand that Cat manufactures ALL its dozers to meet US Military stability requirements for tipping Which means that the tipping angle must be greater than 45 deg.. Most dozers will start to slide sideways from about 1.5:1 onwards. Wide gauge machines have a definite edge in the stability department but are still prone to slide after 1.5:1. I'm with 72V here. I'd like to see a standard, wide gauge or LGP dozer that can run a 1:1 slope sideways without difficulty. I'll accept that it can be done with some dozers IF you are following the batter down as it is cut and you have a windrow under the low side to stop the machine sliding. Side-cutting an already cut batter down from the top with NOTHING to stop it sliding is a whole different ball game. All standard crawler tractors are more stable up and down slopes than they are on side slopes. Many dozers will climb 1:1 or steeper face first but few will back up as steep a slope as they will climb forward. None that I know of will push anything like a full blade up a 1:1 slope. More like 10-20% of a full blade - in GOOD traction. Let the debate rage - - - peacefully, I hope.
Slope Chart Hi, Folks. Here is a slope chart, courtesy of Swishy on the old ACMOC bulletin board. What this slope chart does not show is the line for 1.5:1, which is 75%, or about 37 degrees. You can draw your own imaginary - or real - line through that slope if you wish.
Me too! DP
Sidehill on 1:1 Hi, Folks. I know a couple of crawlers that I'd back to stay upright on a 1:1 slope - - - IF they didn't slide. The old Cletrac HG68/Oliver OC3-wide was an ultra wide guage crawler, especially in relation to its overall height, and TerraTrac made several models that were of a similar configuration. The TerraTrac crawlers eventually became Case in about 1949. These photos are, in order, 2 photos of a somewhat modified Oliver Cletrac OC3 wide crawler, a normal wide OC3, a Cletrac HG68, 68 inch guage and slightly weatherbeaten, and a 1948 TerraTrac crawler which I think is a TerraTrac 400 but don't quote me.
D6r lgp across a 1:1. I wouldn't believe it either if I hadn't see this guy doing just that.:drinkup :cool2 http://img528.imageshack.us/my.php?image=aicatd6rlgp2me4.jpg
If he was at the top of the stockpile running the slope i would say 1:1,but where he is and at the bottom looks to be closer to a 2:1. If the gps say 1:1 then be it!!!!!!! What do i know:beatsme
Hey I'm with you, it don't look like a 1 in 1 to me?
It may have varied from 1:1 and 1.5:1:beatsme but I do know it was vary steep, we're hogging out a prebench for a sanitary line, so it wasn't programmed into the GPS file, just trying to keep the footprint small. I think we did a pretty good job. The dozer operator has to sit on an armrest when he does this though, lol:drinkup
I agree, I think the slope is flatter than a 1:1, probably closer to a 1.5: 1. I have finished many slopes, My D6M was great on 2:1, you can go anywhere you want. On the 1.5: 1 slopes, you have to be more careful, usually working at an angle, not straight across. The clay type soils are also easier to work with, on sandy slopes, the lower track likes to dig holes. I would also like to see a dozer working a 1:1 slope, or for that matter how about a dozer climbing a 1: 1 slope. I have been down several, but the machine usually does not want to climb back up. See if you can find some grade checking gear, or a smart level. You will probably be supprised that the slope is not as steep as you think. And if it is truly a 1:1, let's see some pictures. RT
no no no, the D6 will go 3-2, our John Deere 450H LGP will go on a 1-1. on second thought once looking at that angle chart, the d-6 was more like a 2-1 and the 450 a 3-2. Sorry.
Steep slopes. Hi, Folks. As I have mentioned before, the main problem with keeping most dozers on steeper slopes, especially steeper than 1.5:1 is that they want to slide down the slope. I have worked batters a bit in my career and I have yet to find a dozer that would stay up on ANY slope steeper than 1.5:1 without a substantial windrow below the machine to hold it from sliding. Ususally, the only way to get such a windrows is to final cut the batter as you come down, so that the bottom track is actually riding the bottom edge of the batter and the windrow has flat ground to sit on. Now I'm not saying that it is impossible to side-cut steeper than 1.5:1 because I have done it - with an anchor dozer on top of the batter to hold me. I'll just say that I'd like to see a dozer side-cutting a 1:1 batter and NOT sliding down the slope. This tendency to slide is NOT a characteristic of any individual make or model of machine. It is a fact of life to do with slip angles, traction, adhesion, grouser pattern and a few other things as well. Width of track guage doesn't have much at all to do with sliding, only with the machine's tip angle. I have run various D4's, a D5B wide gauge, various D6's and D7's, D8H's and D9G's on 1.5:1 batters and you do have to be a little careful. It is extremely hard to do on fill slopes, a little easier on cut slopes, for relatively obvious reasons. I have been side-cutting 2:1 batters with a Cat 943 the last couple of days, quite happily. There were a few places where the batter got a little steeper. It got a little hairier in those places but the 943 is still standing, greasy side down and I don't have any REALLY dirty underwear to wash today. RTEngineering, I once took a Cat D9G with hydraulic angle blade and NO ripper up an 8 foot high VERTICAL cut wall in an iron ore mine in Western Australia one night in February, 1968. The jug of beer that I won tasted really nice too, better than any I ever bought while working there. Mind you, I don't recommend it for beginners or even for experienced operators, BUT I HAVE done it. Having said that, I'm with you about side-cutting 1:1 batters.
Like I said I'm not 100% sure if that particular spot was 1:1 or not. That being said, whenever he lifted the blade to back up he didn't pick it up very far and the up slope track would lift off the ground slightly, so it was steep. I wish I had taken a couple more photos from different angles cause it was still impressive to see, oh well:beatsme
I'm sure it was steep by the picture you posted,and by the way thanks for posting or the link for a look see at the dozer on the slope.Get that GPS turned on next time okay Nice machine and for the the size of machine he is doing good for sure.Being a wide track lgp is to his bennifit. Good luck with you project and thanks again:usa
Thanks, lol, I'm sure the GPS was on, we had to make sure we were over that proposed sewer line, otherwise, why bother prebenching:drinkup The guy that runs that 6 gets a kick out of slopes I think, seems to enjoy getting onto them. The photo is about 5 month old now though, time to get some new photos:drinkup :notworthy
The dozer in that pic at most is on a 1.5:1 at most. When I sidehill 1.5:1 I sit on the arm rest not in the seat. I've pushed up 1:1 with a D6 several times heck I've took a smooth drum Cat roller with rubber rears up and down several 1.5:1.
GPS on slopes. Hi, JimBruce42. Thanks for the link to the photos. I would agree that it appears that slope is around 1.5:1. GPS is great for a lot of things but it only tells you where your blade/cutting edge is at any given time, NOT where your tracks/wheels are. If you have a look at that photo, you will see that the high side of the blade is somewhat out of the ground. This means that, unless the operator has very recently tilted that side up, the top track will be a little lower than the blade itself and consequently on a lesser slope than the blade. Just my view of things. Thanks again for the link.
Do you have your dozer set up with automatics or just cab display? And if so, how is your satellite reception on that slope? On south facing slopes I can usually keep enough satellites on to use the automatics but sometimes if the antennas get tilted to the north too much I'll lose a couple and that will put the accuracy tolerance out of spec. The vertical alignment will still be accurate but the horizontal (grade) may not. But that might be what you're shooting for, the pipe alignment, right? But that GPS does make a sweet looking cut slope when you're done!
Most if not all our dozers have the displays only, from what I've heard the earlier auto's were sluggish. I got the chance to try out a new D5g last fall with automatics on it as a demo machine, and the 3 of us who were there trying it all agreed that auto is great for that last pass (a tenth or less), respreading loose soil or stoning a road, but cutting into virgin, packed ground a good operator could go faster without getting sucked in. That was just our opinion on it, could be why we don't use them a whole lot.:beatsme :usa The GPS itself is a great tool in the field though, almost all our dozers, graders, 815's and more and more of our Mass excavators have GPS equipped:notworthy
I remember watching a video in school about the construction of the trans-alaskian pipeline, and they used a technique called "yo-yo dozing". This is where two D-9s were hooked together with a length of thick cable, and the first one would start pushing off the top of a sheer mountain, and when he couldn't back up because he had gone vertical, or was completly suspended, the other dozer would pull him back up! Has anyone else heard or seen the video with this info in it??
Cabling on slopes Hi, Mitchell2905. I haven't done it as you described with one dozer going over the edge from the top and the other anchoring him and pulling him back up. I have used the system to clean out swamps and wet areas with a small dozer going into the swamp or wet area to do the work and a bit bigger one out on dry land on the other end of the cable to do any recovery that might be needed. I have also used it with both dozers and graders side-cutting batters where it was too steep or too high for the machine to be able to stay up there to trim the top. A bigger dozer is used as the anchor on top of the batter while a grader or a smaller dozer is working over the side doing the trimming. Both machines have to travel back and forth together or the bottom one doesn't achieve much. The holding cables or chains are gradually lengthened as the trimming progresses down the slope. It helps to have an area at one end or the other, or both, where the batter machine can be parked with slack chain or cable to allow the lengthening to be done in some sort of safety. We trimmed 50 feet of 1:1 batter about 200 feet long on an earth dam wall using this method some years ago, with a D8H and a Cat 12E 21F grader, sadly before I became a shutter-bug. We just kept shackling in extra 8-foot lengths of cable front and rear, as we worked our way down. The low - left - side of the grader cabin/footplate was fenced in with 2"x1" RHS, welded in place, and the seat was somewhat modified for the duration of the job to take some of the tilt out of it. It was still a bit of a problem needing one leg long to reach the clutch pedal and one leg short to reach the accelerator and brake pedal. Ditto with one long arm for the left blade lift and one short one for the right blade lift. We all survived. And were actually capable of going on to work on other jobs.
Steep slope work where the dozer or grader can slide down the slope or roll over can also be done with a sideboom instead of a dozer to be the anchor. You want a short boom on the sideboom, only as tall as the drawworks. This method lets you take out the slack, and also fetch the lower machine back up the slope when finished if there is no exit at the bottom, such as cutting 1:1 and 1.5:1 slopes that end at the waters edge, over 80 or so ft of water.
Escape route/Back door. Hi, Jerry. I'm with you on that one. It's always nice to have a 'back door' when faced with a situation like that. I've never used a 'boom for that sort of work - never had one around when it was needed - but I can easily see what you mean and how it would work.
I might have the picture thing figured out Ill give it a whirl. This is a D-4C held up by a well used 561 sideboom The slope isas follows The top 20 ft at 1:1 the next 100 ft at 1.5:1 the bottom 80 ft (ending at 80 more ft of water) 2:1
Great picture!!!!!!:usa
Awesome picture! Just curious though, could the slope bar if placed on the downhill side have the same affect? Would it hold a machine?
Nice shot. Hi, Jerry. Great photo. Thanks for sharing. It occurred to me that you could also use the hoist rope straight out of the guide pulleys in the same manner. It may be necessary to put rollers on either side of the pulleys to stop the rope being pulled against the edges of the pulleys if the two machines get a little out of 'sync', but it could be done. Having some counterweight on the 'boom would also help the cause. I have always used outside push-arm dozers for this work and we anchored from the near push arm of the top dozer to the front and rear of the top push arm of the batter machine. What did you anchor to on the D4C. When I used the Cat 12 21F grader, I welded lugs to the frame under the cab and to the front end of the frame just under and a little ahead of the scarifier and shackled the anchor ropes to those. The grader travelled slightly lop-sided on level ground until we cut them off again. LOL. CascadeScaper, I faintly suspect that the batter blade would be more use on the top side, especially with the machine anchored from above. Even on a batter where you could work without an anchor, it would be better/safer to have the windrow immediately under the lower track to help hold the machine up on the batter instead of further down where it would be holding nothing up. Just my 0.02.
Makes sense to me, 'course I'm not a seasoned dozer hand. :notworthy
I've been working on slopes for the last couple monthes that range from 2.8 up to 1.5 to 1. It's an old gravel pit that's being converted to condo housing and we're sloping down the remaining face which is about 80' high and up to 90' wide for the fill. I'm on a 6RXW and have had trouble staying on the slope where the material changes to sandy pockets or larger rocks and boulders. I don't have much more than an inch of grouser left so it's a little challenging to say the least
Deas You are right about running just through the guide pullys. The boom we used was onsite anyway, and it is customized with the short boom for pulling a grid roller up and down the slope. It worked out well for the task. Had a really experienced hand at it too! 2nd day was interesting, as I had him lower me over the 1:1 at the top of the 5ft tall berm you see, went over it at a 45* angle, with nothing but already cut slope for the first 70 ft or so. I hooked the choker around the lower ROPS mount, and it was very close to the center of balance, and allowed me to steer either direction, as needed. I have also done this with a 14G blade, not in as extreme conditions as this, and tied the cable to the ear that holds the lift cylinder. we used a D-8K to pull with, hooked to the pusharm near the trunnion ball. We have also done this pulling ditches, and you would be amazed at how quickly you can finish. Cascade As Deas said, the slope board works better on top. if it is on the bottom, it only makes you slide more. It can keep you from overturning, but that is not generally the problem, as you slide way before you tip over. I did take a slide off of a rock covered by only a few inches of dirt, so you couldn't see it till it was too late. When my tracks left the rock, the D-8K tipped up, and because the slope board was on the downhill side, I caught myself with it. Closest I ever came to tipping one over. Uphill track was 6 to 8 ft off of the ground. I was sidehilling because we werent allowed to dig in a road to cross this piece of ground.
Gotcha, I guess I had it backwards, I figured you'd roll before you'd slide. I've been on stuff a little steeper than 1:1 with an excavator travelling up/down the slope, but that's a whole different story and I'm sure it's much less challenging than sidehilling a dozer.
i'll sidehill our excavator with a blade on a 2:1 as long as its not mud or shot rock. i can still boom and stick all the way out and not get the uphill track in the air unless i try.
Hello Deas! I have a language question for you...where does the term "batter" or "batters" come from? I've heard the term used over here, applied to "batter boards" used to outline an excavation for a basement. Not the same thing. Also, what you make a cake from.... I also think it's interesting how here a slope is a 3 to 1, where "over there" it's a 1 in 3.....interesting how we yanks screwed up the English.... alan627b How's the book coming?
Language 'loused' up. Hi, Alan. I'm not sure where the term 'batter' came from but I suspect that it may have had something to do with the fact that there would have been a LOT of hammering or 'battering' of rock in the 'bad old days' before machines and bulk explosives to get rock shaped into any sort of regular slope. I am open to correction here. With regard to differences in the way batters are quoted, I was always taught that the horizontal measurement is given first. Thus a grade that rises or descends 1 foot in 3 feet of horizontal movement is a 3 in 1 batter, 3 feet in for 1 foot up or down, while a batter that rises 1 foot in only a quarter of a foot horizontal movement would be either a 1/4 in 1 batter or a 1 in 4 batter - 1 foot in for 4 feet of vertical movement. A 'batter board' can be one of two things DownUnder. It can be an add-on to a dozer blade for the purpose of cutting batters. It can also be a slope measuring device consisting of a triangular frame made in such a way that when one of the 3 sides is horizontal, determined by means of a spirit or bubble level attached to that side, another of its sides is at the required slope for the batter to be checked. I have also made a couple of these that were adjustable and could be used to check any batter from about 7 in 1 through to 1 in 1. This is done by cutting a slot in the third side of the triangle to allow the top side to slide up or down and having a bolt with a wing nut to clamp the adjustment at the desired position for the slope/batter to be checked. The last one I made, about 2 years ago, cost a whopping $16.00 DownUnder money for the timber - 1" x 2" DAR (Dressed all round.), a small spirit level and the three 1/4" bolts and the flat washers to hold it all together - and took about an hour to make using a small power circular saw to do all the cutting and an electric drill to drill the holes. I drilled holes at each end of the slot and used a ripping guide in the power saw to cut the sides of the slot - done in about 10 minutes. I also measured and marked the positions for the adjustment for each of the settings from 7 in 1 to 1 in 1. Just as a footnote, I made the second of these gadgets to show my employer of the time that he had no idea what he was talking about when it came to slopes. We had to cut a driveway around 2/3 of a mile long that had to stay pretty close to 4 in 1 for its entire length to be able to get to where it was intended to go. He had started the job using a Cat D5B dozer and had lost at least 10 feet of altitude in the first 70 yards that he cut while he was 'playing'. I had suggested getting a 'fore-and aft' slope meter and mounting it on top of the dash of the dozer to check the slope as it was being cut. "I don't need a slope meter", was the response and off he went. I had to re-cut that part of the driveway the next day. Another use for the term, 'batter board', is those strange frames that surveyors sometimes erect along the edges of a cut or fill to indicate the slope of the batter of that cut or fill. These are also commonly called 'profiles' DownUnder. Hope this helps. The book hasn't 'moved' much since I sent the copy to you. I've been fairly busy answering questions and doing other things on here and at a couple of other forums around the traps. I have also been putting a bit of time into re-arranging another book that is a slightly higher priority in an effort to get it published.
Cool pics, been on a lot of steep slopes with excavators(going up and down), but have never been anywhere where sidebooms are used. I've heard talk about guys taking wheel-loader backhoes down steep slopes, and having a dozer on top, pulling them up or letting them go down as needed. Anyone else heard of that? Trbo
That is a good idea. We just use a 6ft level and a tape measure.
Slope meter. Hi, Rino1494. Feel free to use it. I don't have a patent on it. LOL. They are easy to use, light, easy to carry around in a pick-up and relatively robust, although not quite designed to take being run over by a D6R - NOT the voice of experience speaking. The adjustable ones are especially useful as it only takes loosening a wing nut to adjust them and you can check any batter within their range. Very handy.
Might be time to get it patented!!!! Unless you decied to go that root,do you have a close up picture of yours.Thanks!:usa
Cloe Supp Foter????????????????? Hi, Construct'O. I sold that jigger to the employer of the time for the princely sum of $16.00 and I don't know if he still has it. However, I am back working for him again and will ask if he does still have it. If he does, I will take some photos and post them here - unless the accompanying sketch will do. The dimensions shown for 'X' and 'Y' are not hard-and-fast, set-in-concrete dimensions. They can actually be anything you like. However, it does help to have them the same and at a length that makes working out the various slopes that you want to measure/check easy to calculate and put on to 'Z' which is where you will be doing your setting. I put a small block of timber the same thickness as 'Z' between 'X' and 'Y' at Pivot A and pivotted 'Z' on one side of 'X' and the other side of 'Y' so that there was no binding at Pivot B as the angle between 'X' and 'Y' closed. To be able to check batters as steep as 1:1, the slot in 'Z' needs to finish at least 4 feet from Pivot C. Some typical measurements from Pivot B to Pivot C might be: (Based on dimensions shown.) 7:1 = 6.857142857" (Might as well call it 6.8" or 6.9". LOL.) 6:1 = 8" 5:1 = 9.8" 4:1 = 12" 3:1 = 16" 2:1 = 24" 1.5:1 = 32" 1:1 = 48" What I did when setting these slopes on the slide of 'Z' originally was to measure from pivot bolt to pivot bolt and then mark the position of the top of 'X' on the side of 'Z' with a ball point pen. I then wrote the slope value alongside the line. Kinyer see now why I chose 4 feet for 'X' and 'Y'??????????????? Just in case you haven't yet figured it out, that strange-looking jigger on top of 'X' is supposed to represent a spirit or bubble level securely fastened to 'X', usually with duct tape. Better pick an 'ack-rate' one. LOL. Hope this helps. Note to Mods. - if you want to copy this to somewhere where it can live on for future generations, please feel free. I don't 'own' the information. I'm just the mug that took the time to put it up here. LOL.
Well, why on "earth" don´t they use an LGP model for this? The narrow tracks are also leaving pretty deep marks.
What to use for a given job. Hi, Hjolli. Did it ever occur to you that they may not have had an LGP dozer in their 'toybox'? Even with really big companies, it is not always possible to have the exact tool or machine that is best suited to the job always available at the time. We have been having THAT discussion over on the Tree Clearing Day thread. Quite aside from which, even with standard guage dozers, rollovers are not usually the first problem that you encounter when working slopes and batters. Usually, even narrow gauge dozers will slide before they'll roll. However, it is sometimes the sliding that leads to a rollover, when the lower track starts to dig in and stops the slide. I have only limited experience of LGP's on batters but that experience does not lead me to believe that will stay up WITHOUT sliding where a normal-tracked wide gauge machine would not. In some soils, they may be even worse than a normal-tracked machine due to staying more on top the ground. My own personal preference for side-cutting steep slopes, especially where ground conditions are a little soft as in that photo above, would be a 'swampy', a wide gauge dozer with swamp tracks. Sure, there is often going to be an extra pass or two to get a 'finish' on the job but they'll stay up on a softer batter where nothing else will. They are sometimes a bit handicapped when working on hard-packed slopes where their triangle pads can't sink in a little to get a bite. Then I'd switch to a normal-tracked wide gauge dozer - IF one was available. Just my 0.02.
Side slopes Well DP, I guess I´m a bit influenced by the fact that in my country you almost don´t see a dozer smaller than a D7 anymore without it beeing a LGP model. I guess you´re right in that sliding can be worse with the wider grouser, and my D6R LGP is sliding a lot on wet slopes. In this situation where the machine is suspended sliding should not be a problem anyway. But of course center of gravity is lower on LGP´s and with the wet weather we have been having lately, I´m happy about those wide tracks, otherwise it would be half buried in the mud Hjolli
Thanks for sharing.Nice simple and fast and easy tool looks like to use.I still use my hand held eyelevel for fast checks of the lay of the ground on some of my jobs. I know this is a laser and GPR generation,but eyelevels are still a quick and fast way to give you and idea where to start at least. They are fairly accurate at close ranges also.Still have my old deadman to hold the rod when i was working alone leveling for small building pads.:usa
Yer welkum. Hi, Construct'O. Yer welkum, Mate. Hope it helps. I have always found it a quick, easy and pretty accurate way of checking batters and grades. If you want to get down to grades of 1% or 2%, you will need to put a riser block up from 'Y' to make the pivot, 'A'. This only needs to be high enough for the arm, 'X', to be able to close right down onto 'Y' so that they end up parallel and touching all the way. You also need to make the slot in 'Z' close enough to 'Y' for 'X' to be able to close right down to 'Y'. Doing it this way does eliminate the need for a spacer between 'X' and 'Y' at Pivot A 'cos they will both be on the same side of the riser block, allowing the slide, 'Z' to also be on the same side of both. You might want to use a longer, better quality spirit/bubble level if you are going to check grades that fine. Happy checking.
Other than steep slopes if you are new to running a dozer what are the main things to watch out for. I have already found out that I need to make some brush quards for the back and sides.
Depends on the job every job has different hazards. One thing with dozers on most jobs is cresting windrows or sharp grade changes that will make the dozer rock back and forth.
Try doing a pond that starts with a three to one, goes to a two and a half to one, then one to one! I've been working on one for two weeks, finishing and spreading topsoil back over it at a wal-mart in N. Carolina.
Whats the best way to fix a pond that has a leak in the levee? I think that maybe a tree root may be the cause of the leak but not sure. It's finally started raining here so I will have to wait till next summer, but at least I will know what to try.
Welcome to HEF Bandit44! :drinkup
Thanks Countryboy, I am new to running a dozer, but have been around long enough to know it never hurts to ask someone else the best way to do something that they know a lot more about than me.
too steep was trying to get to the top of a hill till i slid off an undergrown edge with a 3ft drop.. don't remember anything from there till i got to hospital. machine had made 3 full revolutions to the bottom.. thank god for seatbelts!:Banghead
Wow, hope you escaped without a bad injury. I suppose the machine had a proper ROPS cab/canopy. From the underside it looks like a Cat D6 C or D? Regards Hjolli
It was a D6D .and yes it had a good Rops. nothing happened to the cab..my head just got banged up pretty good from hitting the side screens. small fracture in my scull..
finally got some pics one pic shows the slope meter on 0,next shows slope meter on 50 degrees,and last shows looking up slope at dozer and trackhoe..this was a 6000 yard stock pile that had to be sloped to 50 degrees all the way around..
steep by the way the dozer is a new 2007 d3g lgp:usa :drinkup
steep this is a shot of the before
You are lucky to be alive!! who did find you, some other guy working on the same site? it could have gone really bad if you had hit a truck or something before stop... i usually go up really steep slopes, my guess would be 1-1 or steeper! thats on the motocross track, some jums are soo steep you can't walk up, you have to put on the human 4-wheel drive when fixing the jump faces in summer time its no problem, but in the winter when the track is frozen and covered in snow, it can be really scary. a couple of times the machine has begun to slide sideways down, once i saved it by smashing full throttle reverse, the other time (first) i just wenth down sideways with the machine, hoping not to roll over at the bottom. I can just imagine how small you feel when side sliding down a hill, even those jumps feels scary, and they are not so high... lately i was trying to make some jump faces with the Bobcat 763, i had to leave it, halfway up the jump the mashine begun to rise in the front end even with the loader and showel down... i wouldn't like to roll over backwards in a bobcat my friend did it once with a 443 bobcat, he did reverse full speed with empty bucket. suddently the front weight came loose when he let of the steering sticks, the machine whent over one full turn backwards, and ended up on its side in a ditch... this guy could thank his fat for saving him, he could barely make it inside the phone boot sized bobcat, so he only hit hes head when rolling around, it looked incredibly stupid indeed
Some good ideas here. I use a thing called a clinometer to measure slopes. It shows degrees and percent of grade and is about the size of an old fashoned pocket watch & is easily carried in your shirt pocket. For rough field work I have also used it as a dumpy level when the good gear was somewhere else. To the bloke with the leaking dam wall, I have used an underwater explosion to settle the ground near the leak. Just gelegnite in a waterproof bag, suitably weighted to make it sink and set off with a detonator. It worked for me!!!!!...........C ya.............Ray
Never seen a slope meter on a cat before only on graders. I wonder why we dont have those seems like a time saver.
You have to be very careful running a machine on anything steeper than a 1:1 for another reason. Oil pressure. Once you hit the 1:1 mark if your oil is low (or sometimes the sump pickup is slightly out of position, maybe bend up a little last time someone was working on it) your engine can blow! Always a good idea to overfill the oil slightly anytime you are working on a steep angle for any amount of time. I'll see if I can dig up my picture of the 6R XML III I had on a 1:1. It definately didn't want to stay in a straight line and I was just creeping around with my foot on the decelerator so I could stop before I got too far into trouble anytime the soil condition changed. There was one spot where I hit very loose dirt and ended up having to jamb it in reverse and turn hard with the way the bottom track was sliding, digging the corner bit in to get the machine to pivot. Sliding backwards down a slope sucks ass, let me tell you. Word of advice, if you do start sliding, don't try to fight the slide, just get yourself straight (up and down) and ride it out. Using the machine to pull yourself around by accelerating works alot better then trying to brake (once you are sliding you are already in a low traction situation to braking is only going to make that worse...). And for god sakes take your time! If you are going slow you have a bit of warning before you get into trouble. Don't need to be a space cadet and end up on your can at the bottom. And if you aren't comfortable doing the work, tell your foreman to stuff it. You have the right to refuse work you feel is unsafe. Now with a hoe...I'm pretty much batshit insane =D I'll have to do some hard looking for those dozer slope pictures.
1:1 sideways ? 2 things I do know apart from my middle name are 1 . Glad I dont ownthe Dozer and 2; Glad im not operating it.
If the conditions are right, 1:1 sideways is perfectly possible. It's hard on the undercarriage, and certainly not for anything bigger than D6 or thereabouts. As someone put earlier in this thread, safest way is working top to bottom with a windrow to stop you sliding, but remember that's all it does, preventing a slide. As long as the surface is dry and tight i.e. no mud, sand, snow, etc., no dips or rocks, and you keep straight and the speed down, it can be done. I've done a 1.5:1 in a 963 as well, though they slip sideways a lot easier.
i just got done work a 1 1/2:1 slope on a 8Twith 28 inch pads, its not fun, had to keep a very big winrow when i ws runiing the slope!
Jesus, thats a big machine to put on a slope like that!
new to the forum great info
Yes it is, and i couldnt run it sideways cause i would of tipped, and i could run it top to bottom because the dozer would hardly push a 1/4 blade full it was so steep so i had to run it at an angle, does make your day kinda interestin! But we only had my 8 with 28 inch pads, and another 6t with 24 inch pads and my 8 stayed on it better then the 6 did, but the 6 did have brush guard sweeps on it so that prob didnt help.
i have never seen that on a dozer either great idea though
Slope measurement ? I think some of you are confusing measurement of slopes like percent and degrees , slope meters normally measure in percent up to 50 percent or 26.56 degrees . a 2 to 1 slope is the same as a 50 percent slope ( 26.56 degrees ) 45 degrees is 100 percent and it not possible for any dozer to work on a 1 to 1 slope or even to climb a slope that steep without help from another machine or a winch , a quick way to measure a slope is with a Smart Level and as long a straight board you can find and read the degrees directly.
No confusion here, rockbreaker. And it can be done with smaller dozers.
Not possible for dozers to climb a 1 to 1??? Ive done on a 6 and ive seen an 11 do it!
In my 30+ years running dozers I have been on a 1 to 1 slope a few times. The slopes were staked by the surveyors. So please don't think me and Vapor are talking about slopes that were just somebody's guess that they were 1 to 1. It is unpleasant to do. More than once I had to sit on the armrest of the seat to be able to run sideways because it was just too hard on my back to sit on the seat. But, it is very doable depending on the material. Also the degree of compaction, the amount of moisture in the material and the type of dozer determines if it can be done. The ability of the operator enters into the situation also. I have worked alongside operators who were good on flatter slopes but just didn't have what it takes to run anything steeper than 3 to 1. The condition and type of the tracks under the machine will either make it possible or a do not even try it situation.
Tinkerer is 100% correct! I know it was a 1:1 because the gps showed that. And yes its got to be the right material or else its not possible, and must have the right tracks, wider the better!
If you want to see what a dozer can do on slopes, check this out. About 2/3 of the way into this the hills become pretty dang steep. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JNz0xgw-1C0
That's really cool seeing the coordination of so many dozers operating in a small area. I wonder how often they bump? 8:40 the dude is pushing a full blade even with a track locked up
Not my vid, but a little video of a D8t working a steep slope. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kJUn0vrvZuk&feature=related
i wonder if the rippers help or hurt you on a slope like that???
Yair...I have to ask, why do they use straight blades for cutting fire lines?
aint been a day in my 74 years that i felt like i wanted to be in some of u guys shoes. love to push dirt but not under those conditions. i have one place on my property about 30 ft long that is just a road for my d75s measured 37 degrees what ever that means. aint enough money on Gods green earth to get me sideways on it.
I think it could help... you can lower the ripper and help lower the center of gravity if you need to. Just a guess mind you.
Cal Fires' D6 dozers were originally fitted with angle blades which makes sense, as you want to carry the fuel away from the fire. They also used to do pioneering of fire roads, fire breaks and construction of camps. I don't think they do much of that anymore. (The public hates the sight of fire breaks, at least until their house burns down). In the 80s the dozers got cabs after an operator was burned and the blades were changed at the same time. I'm guessing this was due to them not doing much pioneering work anymore but that's just my opinion. Many things are done in gov't by committee without thought to actual use. (L.A. County Fire still uses angle blades on its' new D8R s, proving the point that angle blades are more useful in fighting fire).
mite be to do with angle blades are tuffer to, ive seen vpat blades break a few times on R's then they beefed them up on the T's but your still not to put alot of stress on the blade. Jim i never even thought abought that, your probably right
"8:40 the dude is pushing a full blade even with a track locked up....." No, looks like he is simply sliding downhill with track brakes applied.
Yair...thanks PCSHAY. I have done a bit of line work and it so much easier to have the material flowing off the blade...three Allis twenty ones side casting in staggered formation can make a lot of line real quick.
Yes, that was my point
CalFire switched to the straight blades on the D6Cs so they could use a CalTrans blanket permit for hauling. They have PAT blades on their newer machines.
Something one needs to remember when operation a dozer on steep slopes is to keep the blade on the ground. I've been on steep slopes with a 46a where if you lifted the blade, your high side track came off the ground. Back blading..... I broke in around some old Cat Skinners building logging road in STEEP country. You don't have to get up on the slope to get your 1:1 or 1:1.5 to one, you eye balled it and used your corner bit coming and going. There's an art to it that some get and others don't.
With you on that, I wouldn't try to sit on a 1:1 in rock, I'd do it how you describe. Sometimes on finished earthwork you've got to get up there and trim at that angle.
Hello everyone, "Newbie" here! I wish I had a picture I could post of the dam we had built on our farm in Minnesota, when I was growing up! As best I can remember, the front face was at least about 30 to 40 feet tall, maybe even more, and STEEP!!! I am pretty sure, especially from looking at the slope chart, that it was a 1:1, I don't know WHY they built it that steep, but just to give you an idea, I dang near FLIPPED my dirt bike over backwards going up it!!! Also, the ONLY way it would make it to the top was with a "running start", NO WAY it would get up it from a "dead stop", the carburetor "choked" about a third of the way up!!! Anyway, it was a steep son of a gun for sure!!! Just my 2 pennies! I sure enjoy this website! I'm in the process of buying a 71 International TD 20B dozer for my farm here in Missouri, can't WAIT!!! I hope to learn a LOT from all you experts!!!
Yup, rippers on Cats are what parachutes are to drag cars. (When going down really really steep stuff. )
not sure of the slope, seemed steep to me looking down
When we were doing the tunnel at Dulles airport we picked the bid up for the dirt stockpiles, no spoils were trucked off site and the airport maintained the stock with PMC as the management. When the company took over the stock piles we had to go and re profile three hills as they called them, more like mountains that were maintained out of the flight line. I had to go out and trim and walk the slops in with a D6LGP and the pads were near new, all the slope angles were blown out and I know some were 1/2/- 1 slopes. While not an expert or anything like that we did walk the slopes sideways at a angle but never side to side, the clay shale was far too slick and I am not that crazy.
so the dirt will spill out the edges instead of the cat having to carry all that extra weight from exsess dirt build up such as what you would get with a full U blade. it makes it much easier on the cat and you can push alot faster when you're in a hurry
100% agree on that
i'm from western nc and phillips and jordan and alot of other companies around there will yo-yo in a heart beat i been yo -yoed mant times
i have a slope meter we mounted it on a peice of flat metal and 2 magnets so i can take it with me everyday
Sidehill on a 1:1? Even if you could, why? You're not likely to leave a nice looking job. If dressing the slope is the goal working at a slight angle, pointed uphill, and working your way across the slope works best for me. The soil conditions have to be just perfect to be able to even climb a 1:1. Maybe in perfect conditions a smaller tractor (D3/D4 with fixed undercarriage) could stay on a 1:1 sidehill and manage to dress it decently, but anything heavier would gouge the earth so bad with the downhill track, if it didn't slide clear down, that the finished result would not be satisfactory. I have been on that steep sidehill, but only if I am on a backslope of a ditch or at the toe of a slope where I have earth to hold me there. I use as a rule of thumb a 2:1 slope is the max to work on sidehill and still accomplish a decent finish, and then only if the material is just right. IMHO there is a better way to accomplish work when a 1:1 or steeper is required. If you are cutting a 1:1 slope and don't have a blade to trim the slopes as you go down, and it needs to be polished rather than using the corner bit in pioneering fashion, then maybe I can see putting a dozer on a 1:1 sidehill with the flat portion of your work holding you on the slope, but only as a last resort. If for some reason (not sure what that might be) you are constructing a fill at a 1:1 and need to dress the lifts after the fill is complete then I would work it as I mentioned at the begining. Even at that you would likely have to start at one end or the other to get an area packed enough to procede across the slope. I am learning everyday and maybe there are better operators out there that do this, but one thing that I have learned is that with proper planning you can often avoid having to put a piece of equipment in that situation. Regarding rippers and slopes, If I am on frozen ground or snow I use the ripper to straighten me out vertically on the hill if I start to slide sideways. Like DP said early on in this thread, I'd like to see a D6 on a 1:1 sidehill.
Almost, but not quite.
So close what is that a D6? I've been close to side hilling a 1:1 with a Deere 650LPG, but I kept sliding off it. Had to go get a track hoe instead.
D6R XL, it went steeper for a bit and then flattened out.
i'm not an operator but correct me if i'm wrong i swear i have seen a d8n with suspension stay on a sidehill better than any fixed bottom roller swingframe cat, excellent picture with the slope gauge vantage_tes......theironoracle
Is there an advantage for these dozers going backwards down this pipeline hill? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HX50uBgArmY
1:1 sideways is possible, as I've said before I've done it, and if the material is good you can get a good finish, especially if you don't work for some dinosaur who thinks back blading is on a level with robbing old ladies' purses. If you work down a lift at a time so the lower track is running against a berm of material, there's no chance of slipping, and there's a few more degrees in hand before you tip. It is hard on the chains, though, no getting away from that. I've found dry-ish clay best for cutting side slopes, as you can sit on a 1:1 without sliding. Tried it on sand and couldn't get much better than 2:1.
Iwould think one of them jockeys would knock that knob off the break over ?That is where you fill your skivies .
I have done this with our D5K numerous times. You just have to have some experience and a set of bigger balls. :notworthy
wow aren't you just a regular ba. I want your autograph!!!!!
A good operator can work a 1:1 slope sideways... depending on 1. material 2. Height of slope (if your downhill track is at the toe you can get steeper than a 1:1 depending on the material, just don't end up with more material than you can push. 3. Keep your blade slightly uphill... be prepared to go for a ride sideways, it will happen 4. Watch out for large rocks getting under you uphill track. 5. Always wear your seatbelt.
Zombie Thread! So they don't kiss the windshield???
Hey feller's just bought an old post back to the front how to angel cut a hill side have a read of it I've gorne in to a fair amount of detail on how to do batter work in there and diddent want to rewritte the whole thing. It's times like this I wish I had taken photos of my handiwork I have proven that a dozer will hang up on 1 in 1. The tape measure and the spirit level don't lie and yes I know how to measure. On the subject of batter boards they have been replaced by percentage levels simply put one on the dash do some math and cut down what u want simple no?
not in this life time. started too old and never got over it.
He'll no
Sorry, that probably came across a bit harsh. Long day combined with little sleep and gastritis does that. The bit I don't like about 1:1 is the crease in your backside cheek where you slide into the corner of the seat cushion for hours at a time.
That's ok mate I probebly should have gorne in to a bit more detail. Funnily enough it took 5 years and a lot of encouragement from my employer at the time b4 I would climb on 1 in 1. My last employer thought I was effin crasy when he watched me run his d6r strait across a 1 in 1 and at one point hit a bit steeper and slid to the bottom. I told him to spot watching and go but a new seat because my bum was going tear it up
Yair . . . Its an old revived thread this one and I haven't read it through again. All I can say is (same with lots of things) just because you can do it doesn't mean to say you should . Running steep side slopes (I have found) with proper planning is seldom necessary. Stand above a tractor working side slope and you can hear the walking gear complaining . . . in my mind I can see the metal coming off the flanges and it fair sets my teeth on edge. Overlapping onto the slope board thread (we called them batter boards) I reckon they are the ducks guts and gets away from all that bull$hit. I have only had the luxury of using one a time or two and I would consider one essential in big cuts with a scraper crew . . . far quicker and easier on the tractor than working on the slope. They don't have to be fancy to be effective. The one I used had no hydraulics and was held on by three pins. It laid against the batter (slope) and was or dropped off or fitted as needed . . . took about five minutes with an offsider on the ground. They have to be built strong though. That one on the 8H had (I think) an 8x8" diagonal brace that pinned on the push beam near the trunnion. I think it had just three settings 2, 2.5 and 3:1 which were true when the blade was level . . . you could of course provide more adjustment holes and make it any thing you liked. This was of course in the days before excavators and I cut some batters in rough and gnarly country pretty much spot on . . . the job could have been done with the grader but it would have taken time and been hard on the tyres and machine. Cheers.
Hey scrub good to hear from u. The modern high track tractor seems to Handel steep batters a bit better than the old flat track stuff. Diff steer is the go. Propper planning is good but no matter how well u plan something u still wanna run the blade over it at the end and tidy it up right.
You're right, scrub, it is seldom necessary, but some of the work I've done it's been the only option. I'm no more a fan of seeing the sides of the track rails disappear ten times faster than usual than I am of having the armrest rammed up my backside. It's only ever been a "get out of jail" option and I much prefer being on the level. As for those slope boards, I've never seen one in the UK but one would have made my life a lot easier over the years. So many jobs I've dome I could have done faster and safer. I'm guessing they aren't too robust if you're heavy-handed though?
Yair . . . ih100 . I have to say that from memory I never studied it and always gave it everything the tractor could give . . . there is only so much you give it with a steering clutch tractor. . . I found the best technique was to shave it and take multiple cuts to work back to the line . . . it was sometimes necessary to reach up there and winkle out a high spot with the corner of the blade. I often thought they would be extra good on a TD24 or something with a two speed track system . . . I can imagine one on that new D8 size hydrostatic Deere folks on here are talking about . . . what a bloody dream setup to operate that would be. On decent cuts I always had the the scrapers slot out against the toe so the batters were always a good floor deeper than the cut . . . they were checked for truth and at that stage they were finished to all intents. Cheers
Outfit I worked for back in NZ many yrs ago made a batter blade for a TD 15B out of an old grader blade, was hyd adjustable was real handy doing batters, didn't have to get a grader come an trim as the dozer could trim the batter as it was cut down.
Rd.g13 why ? A dozer can trim at 1 in 1 no troubel at all these days I can do it with a direct drive flat track if I want steeper than that push up or down still don't need a grader or a stupid lookin contraption bolted on the blade I fail to c the point. Hey scrub u alwase loose ground when u batter off why cut at the toe when u can cut a bit wider batter off and use the excess to nip and tuck to desired position? Ps have u got the poops with me no replies 4 a while. Have a look at how to angel cut a hill side that should explain a few things.
Scrub, I started batters with clutch and brake machines, but after getting spoiled on hystats I wouldn't want to got back. I've never been on a batter with anything as big as an 8, but I imagine a bigger mount multiplies the rail and roller wear. Have all of your batter boards been home made? Wouldn't mind seeing a picture or two.
Ih100 putting an d8r up on a batter is no big deal but putting an 8L up on a batter is stupid the modern tractor dezine is far superior in relation to balance and weight to track on ground ratio undercarriage dezine and so on. An L series tractor is to heavy 4 it's tracks and will spit em but an r will Handel it no troubel. I can't finger out why people are against it talking about track ware n stuff anybody would think where talking about hanging on a batter all day every day. Where talking about half a day at most now and again simply to trim it of and make it pretty what's the big deal ? U should b creating the batter as u go and just tidy it up at the end. If people are that stressed about it take it on a bit of an angel problem solved.
Not sure anyone else is stressed about it, Cam. Anyway, I think we've got the message that you're the man on batters, so what more can we say? I'm gone.
Yair . . . ih100 .I have only actual used the one as mentioned in the #125post . . . it was home made and looked it but, as I say, it worked extremely well . . . no hydraulics. Just pinned at required angle with blade level blade tilt gave come and go as required. I only seen a couple of others, both hydraulic but not as stoutly built, I assumed they were factory jobs. Cam85 . No worries mate. No stress here at all . . . just saying as I believe it is . . . that is to say:-- machines, almost any machine works best on the level and in the right application a batter board on a dozer can be a handy bit of gear. Irrigation channels are one obvious application where you are cutting batter all the time. Cheers.
Thanks, Scrub.
Done these batters for last seven years with a D5H lgp on std grousers.I would go down one a month or so and spend a couple of days getting them as steep as I could.Was sand that was dry as snuff,so side trimming wasn't an option.Not for me anyhow.Was hard on tracks.
cutting batters by eye in good clay with towed scrapers is easy enough if doing it by yourself.This particular batter goes down about 130 vertical feet, so the back wheels do slip abit.You couldn't go back up to retrim them if it's wrong.Would need a dozer.
The batters on this end of the job were filled batters,not cut.I pulled my tractors off them 2 years ago as it was too hard on the old machines.Having to overfill engines and transmissions and then run the undercarriage off them started to upset me especially as they had a nice new D6K on the haulroads that wouldn't go near the batters,so I said I would stop coming down to trim them up.After 2 years of different drivers not being able to do the job,I ended up having to drive their machine this summer.The batters were that far out that I roughly civilised them with a D8 in a cut and fill fashion.It had gone way past the 'just trim 'em up' stage and after hoovering about 10,000 cube up them,down them,and across them,they were starting to take shape and totally transform the pit,which appeased the disgruntled planners.I then spent a week trimming them up with a D6K of theirs on the side slope running somebody elses coins of the tracks.
I got them ready for topsoiling by the end of a very dry September.They said that they would have a go at them.As of Christmas this year,they remain untouched after the driest autumn on record......
Very nice work, Nicky. Got to say the "K" is my weapon of choice for that kind of work as well. That's if there's one available.
A lot of the batters we cut back then were at 1/4 to 1, there is no way u can do that side ways with a dozer.
Hey guys I know this is older discussion but I just found it was reading it found it pretty interesting I'm 40 years old been running dozers ever since I was 12 about anything and everything and and today's time I found the best dozer that I tend to like to work a slope with is a I don't know if you've all ever run any of them I'm sure you have is a d6 t xw and man that's a nice tractor you know GPS for GPS tractor you know to do work your your final cut on your float and it will I tell you what I've I've had it on on some slope sideways and that's a wide pad dozer too high track and it's I've had it on some slopes that it was you couldn't even stand on it you know a good work slow hard dry material and sideways and it I tell you what man lot of times excavator wouldn't say it on it I mean and then you know Dozier I could just walk all over it sideways like ways down ways just about anyways LOL you guys ever have experience running them d6t xw dozers it's a nice tractor and then of course we run here on the pipeline her Precision they have a few John Deere 850 950s but I like the caterpillar d8 t wide track. Jim Bruce 42 I know what you mean about that operator having to sit on the armrest. I don't think I fell I can say he's ever worked a slope he ain't said on I don't think I fell I can say he's ever worked a slope he ain't said on I don't think I fell I can say he's ever worked a slope he ain't said on the I don't think I fell I can say he's ever worked a slope he ain't said on the armrest if I don't think I fell I can say he's ever worked a slope he ain't said on the armrest if I don't think I fell I can say he's ever worked a slope he ain't said on the armrest if he I don't think I fell I can say he's ever worked a slope he ain't said on the armrest if he I don't think I fell I can say he's ever worked a slope he ain't said on the armrest if he don't I don't think I fell I can say he's ever worked a slope he ain't said on the armrest if he don't know I don't think I fell I can say he's ever worked a slope he ain't said on the armrest if he don't know about I don't think I fell I can say he's ever worked a slope he ain't said on the armrest if he don't know about the I don't think that a fella can say he's worked a slow if he don't know nothing about no armrest setting LOL very interesting guys I just found this man it's a great place I like it keep up good work y'all be safe out there God bless you all
Welcome to the forum but man was that hard to read. After you've typed a post it helps to proof read and edit it before posting, especially a longer post. Makes it easier to read and understand.
Punctuation is an amazing thing . . .
Reading what you typed before posting usually helps. There's always going to be little mistakes but not as many.
I'm not a fan of running side ways on a slope, it is very rough on roller flanges. I've done some over the top on hill sides likely steeper than 45 degrees, and where you don't want to loose it and go side ways or or over you will go. I always liked the high and steep ground stuff. Since I got to fly long before I got on a dozer, had to keep telling myself dozers don't have wings.
Welcome to HEF, Daniel ! I edited your post to make it a little easier to read. I hope you don't mind that I did that ? " Hey guys I know this is older discussion but I just found it was reading it found it pretty interesting. I'm 40 years old been running dozers ever since I was 12 about anything and everything and and today's time I found the best dozer that I tend to like to work a slope with is a I don't know if you've all ever run any of them I'm sure you have is a d6 t xw and man that's a nice tractor you know GPS for GPS tractor you know to do work your your final cut on your float and it will I tell you what, I've I've had it on on some slope sideways and that's a wide pad dozer too high track and it's I've had it on some slopes that it was you couldn't even stand on it. you know a good work slow hard dry material and sideways and it I tell you what, man lot of times excavator wouldn't say it on it I mean and then you know Dozier I could just walk all over it sideways like ways down ways just about anyways LOL. you guys ever have experience running them d6t xw dozers it's a nice tractor and then of course we run here on the pipeline her Precision they have a few John Deere 850 950s but I like the caterpillar d8 t wide track. Jim Bruce 42, I know what you mean about that operator having to sit on the armrest. I don't think I fell I can say he's ever worked a slope he ain't said on I don't think I fell I can say he's ever worked a slope he ain't said on I don't think I fell I can say he's ever worked a slope he ain't said on the I don't think I fell I can say he's ever worked a slope he ain't said on the armrest if I don't think I fell I can say he's ever worked a slope he ain't said on the armrest if I don't think I fell I can say he's ever worked a slope he ain't said on the armrest if he I don't think I fell I can say he's ever worked a slope he ain't said on the armrest if he I don't think I fell I can say he's ever worked a slope he ain't said on the armrest if he don't I don't think I fell I can say he's ever worked a slope he ain't said on the armrest if he don't know I don't think I fell I can say he's ever worked a slope he ain't said on the armrest if he don't know about I don't think I fell I can say he's ever worked a slope he ain't said on the armrest if he don't know about the I don't think that a fella can say he's worked a slow if he don't know nothing about no armrest setting LOL very interesting guys I just found this man it's a great place I like it keep up good work y'all be safe out there God bless you all"
Well, that's a start . . .
I disagree. And if you like steep and high, try this ou t.
That is very impressive. I've balanced on one track a few times but not in an area like that. Glad it all worked for him, I think a bit too close to the edge for a slope cut like that especially having a slope board pulling the center of gravity more to the left. At least he's got the right machine for it, though I'd love to see that done with a modern D8. I always tried to operate smart, in a spot like that I'd want a safety line of some sort. Sure wouldn't want that cliff falling off on you, or something falling from above pushing ya over. But then being there things may look different than a video. And thanks for this video, so far the best one I've seen doing steep work, other than the sad D155 rolling off a hill.
Have pushed snow on over 1:1 slopes working a snow dump. 1150 LGP. It kind of freaky backing up over a dumped pile in a lane and it turns to damn near vertical for a few feet. Kept making my drinks come out of the cupholder! One if the guy busted a back window with his phone flying out his shirt pocket.