Well FIRST, I just have to say that this forum has been awesome for me in the past at always providing the answers I'm looking for. Humorously, I recently was looking to trailer my backhoe to my parents cottage and wanted to know the weight. I did a Google search which lead me to a thread here where someone who had just purhased a backhoe identical to mine was looking for the same info. Oddly enough, it WAS ME.... Years ago when I bought it... That made me laugh. (And yes, all the info I needed was there!!!) In the end, I decided it would be quicker and easier to just drive my backhoe to the job (which was an 18' section of road missing at my parents cottage, massive wash out) Anyway, yesterday on m way home, I started getting hydraulic fluid leaking from... The steering wheel... (?) again I turned to google (just now) and was directed to a thread of someone who had just purchased a backhoe and was building his house, and had a leak coming from his steering. GUESS WHO.. (!!!) So, here I am again, expecting to find this thread in 8 years when something else goes wrong... SO.... Anyone tell me what i need to rip apart to stop my steering wheel from lubricating my shift knob? 1987 CASE 580 SUPER E ! Thanks a bajillion!
Where exactly is the fluid coming from? Have the same machine by the way
It's dripping from the center of the steering wheel, yes, the plastic part...
Here is the wash out - in progress - and the "new" culverts I put in place. Oh, and FYI, if your "charge" light flickers for a while and then comes on constantly, and then your temp starts going up, your alternator may have fallen out... (!) (yes, I was still running!) I generally don't run the side covers and I think that helped prevent overheating. Drove home and welded up a new bracket then finished the job!
If you remove the steering wheel cap on your machine, there should be a nut with a pipe in middle. Is the pipe completely filled with fluid or can you see that it's coming from elsewhere?
The shaft seal on the steering handpunp is leaking, you must remove the steering wheel , loosen the clamps that hold the big tube in place, slide it up off the steering handpump and remove the pin that holds the inner steering shaft to the pump shaft. It is not difficult to replace the seal which comes as a kit from Case, After removing the snap ring at the pump seal opening the parts can be removed easily, turning the pump shaft will usually shove the seal assembly part way out and O ring picks can remove the soft rubber seal. On occasion I have started the engine then turned the pump shaft and used steering flow to unseat the seal and push the pieces out. It is better to get the oil out of that area to make it easier to replace the seal as is is more difficult to guide the seal down into position when you have to force it against oil. an oring pick can be used to go around and guide the seal edge down into its recess.
Machine has probably been off for 45 minutes now, so I suspect that's why it's not right to the top, but definitely fluid inside the pipe... Flash lit a little glimmer here so I put the camera right up to the nut. I also see that there is a drain hole in the steering wheel! I'd say that's no more than 4-6" down from the top.
I was about to make a post explaining it, and then saw melben did an excellent job as usual. Just do what he says, it's no big deal. The kit is case part# 86585473 Messick's has it in stock for $30.79 http://www.messicks.com/part/86585473/kit-seals
Great! Thanks!
Awesome! - thanks!
The only thing I would add to melben's post is be sure and don't let inner shaft in hand pump come out, it's timed and you'll play heck getting it back in time.
Well I got the kit and started into fixing it but didn't get far. I can't for the life of me get the steering wheel off! Made a little puller, but just ended up bending it. What's the trick? I've tried using pry bars under it, tapping with a hammer.... Can't really heat it or the wheel will melt...
That thing can be a real pain sometimes. One trick is to get some good tension (by pulling straight out on it, however you can) then give it some taps from behind around that metal sleeve with a big hammer and drift punch. If you can get enough tension on it, your puller there should work, it shouldn't take but a few hits for it to pop loose. Tension it up, give it some taps, tension it again, tap again. The one on my 580C was a bear and I also bent a homemade flat puller like that. The center of the wheel there was long worn out, so I was able to barely get a 3 jaw puller on there, but even that didn't break it loose, but getting the puller on there good and snug so it was under tension, then a couple of hits and right off it came. Anti seize it up good when you reinstall it, and don't go gorilla strength tight on the nut, it the shaft has splines anyway, so whoever the next poor guy is (which could be you) doesn't have a chore with it then.
Stronger bolts, thicker steel, faster horses, younger women, more money. You just need more oomph to your puller, and keep hitting it like RDC described.
The best way I found to pull the steering wheel is to grab the outside ring and begin to work it by pulling on one side then the other. Spray a little penetrating oil on splines also.
Is this for the 580 Super E? I am looking at the parts page and do not see this number. Does the main pedestal frame not have to be removed?
That is a superseded part # for # A47038 It is between line 14 & 15 in the parts book.