I have a 1996 Sullair 185 DPQ compressor that is having issues. We have been using it to sandblast with and it has been blowing oil into the moisture separator on the blast pot. Also it is blowing oil out of what i assume is some sort of bypasses, one is right above the compressor head on the left side and another near the back of the control panel. It has been cold so i was thinking maybe something is freezing but we have kept the hoods closed and it seems that everything is warn inside the machine. Also, we went to top off the compressor oil shortly after shutting down and there was a bit of pressure behind the oil filler plug. It will slowly overflow when removing the cap. Any ideas??
usually its the oil separator in the receiver being saturated or in need of replacing that causes this. Dont run it that way for long or you will soon see an extremely large fire erupt. Rotary Screw Compressors need a rather large supply of oil to keep the screws from turning bright red from friction heat. The separator is a large filter element that removes the oil from the output air that wasn't knocked free from the air when it rammed into the side of the receiver. The oil coming from the other components (pressure regulator and unloader valve) is a sure sign that the oil is still suspended in the air and not falling to the bottom of the inside of the receiver. edit: there should be a sight-glass that will let you know if the oil level is too high or too low. The top of the oil level should be visible in the sight-glass and not over filled. You may just be over filling the oil tank (receiver).
That makes sense. Do you have a parts book or have the filter part number? I actually changed the hydraulic oil a few weeks ago and filled to the center of the sight glass. At that time i replaced the screw on filter thats mounted on the A frame. Didnt realize there was a filter in that tank...... Thanks!
Hopefully VoodooMojo can give you the numbers. One thing I seem to recall when I went to a Sullair class was the oil separators come with gaskets that have staples in them. Was told DO NOT remove the staples. They are there to help ground the cover to the filter and to the tank. If they are not there I was told static electric charge can build up and cause an explosion. Maybe VoodooMojo came confirm this?
Kshansen is correct DO Not remove staples. I have seen one that caught fire from static elect build up. It was a mess to clean up.
I took the old filter out and noticed it says not to remove the staples. The filter doesn't really look too bad to me. Would there be anything else that would make this blow oil besides this? The part number was also stamped on the filter so I should be good to go there. Thanks
Im sure there are other things that could cause this. I just havent seen anything cause it other than the seperator.
Be sure and check the scavage tube for trash.
The staples in the oil separator filter element ground (earth) the element. The top cover completes a ground to the receiver tank via the bolts that mount the cover to the tank. The element, however, is electrically insulated to ground by the gaskets for the element, hence the reason for the staples, to provide a ground for the element.
if the minimum pressure valve is leaking you will more than likely have this issue but it is rare. If it is the problem it can usually be repaired by replacing the seals on the valve. Any Sullair distributor can get you the valve or the seals. But it is rarely the valve. This valve is mounted on the top of the receiver tank. Disable the engine from starting (fuel shut-off valve if diesel or coil wire if gas) but still be able to crank the starter. Open the output air service valve and crank the engine over. If air is coming out the air valve while the engine is just cranking then the valve is suspect. The filter separator element will seldom look like it needs replacing but it is normally what is causing the issue. Also, the correct oil is important. Does it blow oil immediately or after it gets good and hot? If it starts after getting hot it usually is the oil. Many revert to ATF when in doubt. If the air coming out of the service valve is hot it may well be as Moonlite pointed out, the pick-up tube from the receiver to the cooler may be restricted and not permitting proper lubrication to the rotary screws. This is usually safety checked by temperature shut down switches located near the rotary screw and the receiver tank. These switches have been known to be bypassed by some jamoke thinking they know what they are doing. I can relate a real ugly story about what happened at a vacuum cleaner manufacturing plant in Bloomington Il. when someone did this once. Let's just say it made the evening news.
If you are shotblasting make sure that the diameter of the pipe at the end of your blasting hose is 8 millimeters or less , for 185 CFM 8 millimeters is a max , 6 millimeters is fine , if you work over the capaccity of the machine the seperator don't last long
Is the receiver tank what the separator element is housed in? If so there is a valve on the side which i presume is a pressure relief? That is not what was bypassing, it was the two inline hoses (guessing 1/4" hose) that come off this tank that houses the filter element. I called the local Sullair dealer before we changed the oil and we use 32 hydro oil based on what they said. This problem was happening before this however. Thanks
simular compressor problem I have basicly the same problem with an old leroi compressor q185 model,also blowing oil out thru the intake of compressor,all stared with speed control cable snapping,which works off an intake valve,pulls the throttle down when set pressure is reached and pushes it back to rev engine when pressure drops,,i noticed the oil very low,so we filled it with hydraulic oil.since then it spits out all the oil wont stay running stalls and smokes alot thru intake,can keep it running by holding bypass button,but im sure thats not to safe at all,oil is very hot when ejected so im sure its not circulating thru the cooler,takes mere seconds to get very hot. notice a valve oon a line coming out of resivoir called a dump valve supposed to blow down any residual air pressure left behind.but like i said it blows out intake instead,noticed some one said oil type very important,and something about using atf to be safe,any advise on that,could it be the oil causing the heat causing it to boil and erupt?this is my first post,i hope im doing right by asking for help here. thanks
If air is blowing out of the air intake then the issue is more than likely in the check valve at the discharge end of the rotary screw. The check valve is used just for that purpose. They get hot as hell when the oil gets low and have been know to melt, stick in an open position or even catch on fire. Where the big tube from the receiver to the air-end attaches to the air-end or at the receiver there will be a removable housing containing the check valve. I do not recollect ever working on a Leroi but the valve will have to be there or compressed air in the system would just rush straight back through the system and out the air cleaners. Some are poppet looking things and some actually look like an oversized ping-pong ball.
Is this the Leroi?
This pic is is very simular to it,probably a close mode lof one,mine has a lil different configuration of intake setup,my question (first of all thank you for the reply)my question would now be is this valve you refer to one of the valves coming from a line attached to the resivoir,there is the blow down dump valve,and another which is a fillter type valve that lets oil return ,but its tiny like 1/4 inch ccopper ,and one other line that is the control valve,used to set pressure amount. or is it on or in the large hose coming from the resevoir?should I take the cover off the resevoir,and inspect the element in it
That is very simular to mine,mine has a lil dfiferent intake setup.is the check valve your refering to one of the valves seen on top of resivoir,one is called a blow down dump valve,the other is a filter and drain for excess oil.or is there another in the hose your speaking of,and is the reason maybe i used hydraulic oil instead of compressor oil. causing the blow back.thanks for replying earlier,I certainly appreciate it
the hose and valve I speak of is the large (probably braided) hose that runs from the bottom rear of the air-end (compressor screw) to the receiver. The check valve will be at one end or the other of the hose. I was looking for an image of it on the web last night but, alas and alak, I found none. If you can post photos of the area we can hone in on it.
the separator element in the receiver will not be your issue...that can only cause oil coming out the air discharge end. The more I think about these rotary screw machines the more i remember my days on Sullair, Worthington, Garner Denver, Joy, Sullivan etc compressors. The valve I speak of is many times installed right in the fitting at the air discharge end of the rotary screw
then I want a drink to forget bout it!!! LOL
h] hope this works out,never posted pics before
Hope this helps
what is #31?
yes FSERVICE...many drinks!! For awhile I would run watchdog over a wagontrain of 6 1600cfm Sullairs....5 running and one shut down for servicing or repair. We would set them up in a circle, wide open, supplying factory air for large manufacturing operations when their factory air source was being repaired or replaced with me right in the center.......my ears are still ringing... 25 years later........ The world will never know how man suffers for compressed air!
That is just a fitting according to the list,the only valves are no. 18 (check valve) no.23 (pressure relief) no.26 (drain) no.36 (blow down dump) no.46 (service valve) in the next pic,trhere is another No.11 thermal bybass valve,allows hot oil to flow to cooler
in this photo: 18 looks like a bolt 23 and 26 look like elbows 36 and 46 not to be found
inspect the areas in the circles. The large one more than likely is the valve in question. It should keep the pressure in the receiver from blowing back through the air-end. If it is not a valve then the smaller circle could contain an internal valve that checks this pressure. Somewhere between the two areas there has to be a mechanical means of preventing the blow-back
You said you serviced your compressor a couple weeks ago? Could be key in this failure. What kind of oil did you install?
First off thank you,Voodoomojo,and sorry about the picture confusion,that was just to piont out no.46 which was not in the previous pic.hence the different numbers. but I do appreciate your experience and help.I will check those areas for the valve in question.as for the next question from another member Hardline,The service I did was in response to the original problem,the speed control cable snapped and the compressor would only idle,so after repairing it,i checked the oil and found it down 2 1/2 gallons so we added AW46 hydraulic oil.thats when the next problem kicked in the blowback,but i question it because if it was that low,yet still ran good,why then after ejecting the oil does it still not run right,perhaps the problem as voodoomojo sugested with the check valve was there all along and by adding oil it did what I suspect now it did a while back,because now im told,a while back the oil did blow all over and I was never told,therefore never bothered to check or add oil to the system,Now im thinking what ever caused the cable to snap could be a new problem,it snapped where it attaches internally at the intake control valve which as I read on controls the air suction at the compressor end.I guess i should check and clean all the lines and valves and see where I go from there. Thanks again for all thge help so far.
Maybe it's just the way I do things, but unless the manufacturer specs alternative oil I always use OEM oil in compressors. Yes, it tends to be a little more expensive than alternative oils from a local oil supplier, but at least I know for certain the correct oil is in the unit eliminating a possible problem. Sullair uses Sullair AWF oil in most of their units that I've worked on, and in their case AW doesn't denote "AW hydraulic oil", I think it stands for " Sullair All Weather" oil. Just my opinion.
The sullair oil is a 10wt lube. There are several different oils but the sullair awf is compatible with a aw32. The fact you have added the 46 could be too thick. It needs to be a quality fluid with an anti foam additive. Check your office and the scavGe tube. Would not hurt to install a new separator.
The oil the Sullair dealer told me to use was AW-32 hydraulic oil. That is what it was filled with. Willie, i agree with the manufacturers oil but the closest stocking dealer was about 60 miles away and i needed a quick way to fix and the closest parts store was autozone...... sorry to say! I got the new Sullair filter element and will replace this tomorrow. I hope this works and will update when we get sandblasting again.
Well....... when i was putting the lid back on the filter housing i broke two of those 1/4" clear hoses..... Does anyone have a diagram of this Sullair 185 DPQ? Im not sure which hose went were, they were so dry rotted they just snapped like twigs!
Sullair hooked me up with an electronic manual so if anyone needs one let me know....
Well I checked both ends,no valves,but it turns out no.13 in the picture is a check valve,took it out and tested it not working properly, so I ordered it, will try that next.
When it comes to compressor oil on our Sullairs on drill rigs we switched to a Mobil Rarus SHC 1026 synthetic oil and all our water/condensate issues went away, never to return. The OEM spec was a an AW32 or 46 hydraulic oil, go figure......
well Im back on with same problem with my Leroi air compressr,I have literally pulled it apart looking for a check valve,and found none. I have included some pics,to show how i could push a stick thru the air end and see it clearly no check valve there,and on the opposite end again no check valve,i dont understand what holds the air back from returning back down thru,my sons theroy is maybe the oil level/ if but I dont really know.any help would be greatly appreciated.. its a Leroi Q185 air compressor rotary type w/a john deere diesel engine powering it.
I was thinking the same thing while i was changing the particulate filter in mine. I have no idea and didnt see where there was any check valve. I have the sullair manual and it isnt clear to me..... Maybe someone can explain?
131cfm sullair I am having this same problem with my compressor, but I can't find the part number on the separator element. Can anyone help me find a manual with the part number?
Just to help anyone who might want to try to help do you have some info on this compressor? Like make, model, s/n? There seem to be two different compressors being talked about in this thread so need to know what we are dealing with to be safe. Also might be good to say if it is an electric, gas or diesel powered compressor.
Sure it is a Sullair 65, 131cfm portable diesel compressor. s/n13589... ref65k-0435. The Air/oil separator item number is what I'm trying to find. I can't find a parts diagram anywhere. I hope this is more helpful!
I looked at the Sullair web site and do not see that model listed. Any chance you have tried sending them an email to see if you get any reply? I found this email address: [email protected] Be sure to give them all the numbers you posted here, good luck. Ken
the Valve that you guys are talking about is i think OIL Stop valve, which is present at the midllength of the elemnt(in bottom side). it stops the oil and air to rush back the reciever(oil seperator).