The fuel level gauge stopped working on my T140, just reads about 1/4 tank no matter what the level. It was working when I got the (used) tractor, seemed to get a little flakey, then the fact it stopped completely became obviouw when I ran out of fuel about a 1/4 mile from where I keep the cans. I got the level sensor out of the tank after buying a 41mm 6-point socket and about 2 hours of struggling with various drives standing on my head under the cab. The sensor turned in the threads VERY hard, I had to put a lot of force turning it until the last fraction when the threads finally fully disengaged. The sensor checks out with an ohm meter, and in fact runs the gauge properly when connected to the harness, just not in the tank. The one clue I see is a witness mark about 1/4 up the brass sensor tube as if the float was stuck there, but the float goes up and down the tube very freely. So, I polished the brass tube, chased, cleaned and lubed the threads on the sensor, and attempted to install it back in the tank. It won't go in. I can feel some great lump in the bottom of the tank, right in the way of where the sensor goes. The edge of this lump is right where the sensor tube goes and cocks the threads just enough that it won't screw in without cross threading. Of course things are such there is no way for me to look down the hole, even with a mirror and flashlight. I tried to take a picture down the hole with my phone but couldn't get it to focus. There is no damage to the bottom of the tractor that would change the shape of the tank. What could this be and how can I fix it?
typically what i see is the bottom of the tank deformed, usually due to a plugged fuel cap vent. the pump pulls enough vacuum in the tank and it collapses. it usually bends or kinks the fuel sender tube and the float sticks. you may be able to get the tank to go back where it's suppose to be by filling it up, then trying to reinstall the sender. the fuel cap must be a vented type cap good luck. :drinkup
Thank you. I managed to get a tool down the hole and what it feels like to me is there are molded in features on the bottom, no foreign objects or contamination in the tank that I detect. I did get the sender threaded back in without cross threading, but now the gauge always reads empty; I am guessing that I trapped the float at the bottom of the sensor against the offending tank feature. It seems likely as you say the tank has become distorted somehow. I am running the original vented cap, I will check it to be sure the vent works, but I have not experienced any sucking when removing the cap for refueling. One other thing, about 9 months ago I started using Propel HPR renewable biomass fuel. The engine seems really happy with it, but I wonder if there is a compatibility problem with the material in the fuel tank causing it to distort.
:beatsme we dont recommend biodiesel to anyone... maybe a call to your local dealer can answer that question. :drinkup
This stuff is not biodiesel as commonly known. While it starts with biomass, it is much more highly refined than biodiesel and meets ASTM D975 diesel specification. It has significantly higher cetane than conventional diesel and my engine really likes it, less idle rattle, smoother running, and less smoke. I have put in an inquiry to the company about the tank compatibility, but somehow don't expect them to own up to anything. For now I am switching back to standard #2 diesel and will keep the tank topped up in the hopes that the tank will "un-distort" itself (and avoid running out as well). I did get the sender back in place though it now reads dead empty, I am guessing still trapped by the distorted tank structure.
what usually happens is debris gets between the tank and the machine frame, and wont let the tank "relax" back to where it should be. there are so many different tank designs, but most of them are pretty much a flat on the bottom, but may have a 1/2" (or so ??) rib molded into them. :drinkup