It will move about six inches in either direction, and stops dead, so the hydro (motor)looks to be working fine. My guess is that some kind of mechanical breaking system has malfunctioned. Any seasoned Takeuchi owners out there that have had this issue?
No...but does that motor drive directly or is it bolted to a planetary or final drive? Problem is most likely there and not in motor. Don't have a book on that machine...can you post a pick of it?
Is thier any noise when you move the 6 inches? Our jd 332 just blew a motor. Did the same thing your machine is doing only it made a grinding noise like a rock was in the tracks.
out in space i was given a bobcat 763 and the hyraulic fluid comes out of the front gear box by the pedals, is there suppose to be a certain amount of oil or is it suppose to be full and the gasket just worn out. the gasket does look worn out but before i replace it would like too know or is there a control that closes and opens when level is at the right amount
Direct drive, the hydro motor is inside with the planetary gear. I don't have picture posting privileges as of yet, but will post as soon as I do. Jim
Nope, nothing at all sounds fine for the six inches. I too suspected a blockage at first. This machine has not seen much mantainance. On top of that, the guy I bought this unit from had the tracks wound tight enough to strum a key of "G" out of it. It has apparently never been cleaned and there was clay packed into the rail so tight I had to use a chisel to remove it. (Not kidding, This unit was originally in the state of Florida ) I cleared everything out, and none of the relief holes in the tracks were blocked. (I'm used to doing that on my dozer.)
Are you referring to the gasket on the hydro fill tank? Or is it leaking around the pedal control rods? The hydro system should be level checked with the bucket on the ground, if you fill it while the arms are up, you will overload the system and could damage it.
Drain the gearbox oil and see if there is any metal in the oil or if it has a silver hue to it. If so, pop the outside cover off the gearbox and check the gears and bearings. When the tracks are too tight it puts a tremendous strain on the hub bearings. Is the problem on both sides? Lift the each track off the ground and try to rotate. See if it is one side or both. If the gearbox side is good, then it could be a multitude of issues in the hydraulic system. Report back what you find and we can troubleshoot further if needed.
No discoloration, but it smelled like burned dead something..... its only the one track, the other track turns fine. (And will probably turn even better once the tension is released a bit.) I bought it like this, so I'm not sure if it stopped all at once, or if it was a progressive thing. So I've been hobbling it around the yard on one leg until i figure this out. The diagrams in the parts book are tech drawings, and unless you have a PHD in Mechanical engineering, not too easy to decipher. I was hoping for an exploded view, but all they offer is a cross section, not handy. So if it is a defective park brake of some kind, I'll just pull it out. (I'm not planning on doing hills, and i can always drop the blade.)
disconnect the drain hose in the hydromotor, plug it. then try to move the track with the problem, if you see a large amount of oil coming out the open drain port then you have hydraulic motor failure, may be pistons, retainer plate failed, etc. the amount will increase as soon as the motor stops no matter you keep applying that function. hope this helps
Good advice from MANUEL NAUT, check case drain. It would be best to test the hydraulic pressure and flow at the motor and test the case drain. If consistent flow and pressure then you can diagnose it as in the motor. If not consistent then you have to follow the oil through the hydraulic system and find the problem...it could be several causes. I can send you an exploded view of the motor and gearbox next week if you send me your email address or fax number.
hi Jlillie2, sounds like your hyd brake spool spool casing end caps within the hyd mtr brake spool have loosened and backed off. remove the end block caps off each side of the brake spool one at a time, watch for small pieces, have a clean drain pan underneath to catch them, slide the spool over likely a hole thru the spool casing end cap insert allen key or such, apply ThreeBond No.1305N (loctite 648? green loctite and compatible with hyd oil plus handles the working temp of a hyd system, sorry verify this # i'm going by memory) apply 3 dabs or so unto threads and retighten back in place. repeat for opposite side of the brake spool. likely its the problem.
hi Jillie, you cannot just pull out the brake spool, it is part of the hyd oil pathways it seems you are right on your problem. check your parts cat on this hyd travel mtr. some travel motors have filter screened and/or orificed cartridges inserted. if they get plugged it can cause a similar problem. also, as far as for the case drain, insert stalling pins in the sprockets travel lock stall the travels simutaneously and with a temp gun read the temp right at the drain tube exiting the hyd motor and simply compare to the opposite side. any excessive intrenal leakage (hyd oil not performing work) will transform into heat.
FYI This motor is a Nachi KT300, not your typical set up used on current machines. It has not been MFR'd for years and is quite unique.
hey, lol...i see... my boss usually tells me to get a life and leave work, go home, i answer back, i do have a wife...she's at home... thanks for the heads up, do you have a picture of one? just curious you know...
I do have a photo and an exploded view via a parts drawing.
Finaldrive, Manuel Naut By case drain, you are both refering to the odd line on the back correct? (Longer than the rest of the lines) I just wanted to be sure before trying anything. I would love the exploded view! my e-mail is [email protected]
And because its a two speed motor, if I can't fix it, replacement would have to be both motors at once. (Kinda kills my cheap machine budget quick.) B-) Thats why I'm hoping to be able to beat this thing into submission. The machine digs like crazy, and by lifting the dead track, and slewing, I get around ok. (As long as I don't have to get into a garage or in a real tight space.)
So far I haven't been to the point of doing anything except for opening the drain to check for extra parts in the oil. (None as of yet, just standard 90wt smell.) I didn't want to open the housing until I have a better idea of what is in there. (I've had my fair share of flying parts in the past, and I hate working blind with out some kind of diagram.) I have a parts manual, but no shop manual, and the cutaway doesn't show anything useful unfortunatly.
Finadrive, that would be great! my e-mail is [email protected] I'd love to see what is in this little bugger before spilling its guts. It was 28 degrees this morning, and I'm going to be working outside, as I can't get it into the shop with out pulling the ROPS and dragging it in. (My big shop had a low ceiling, and my small shop has no heat, as I used it for storing my Unimog.) So if I'm going to do this outside with a salamander heater, I'd better get my ducks in a row. B-) Jim
no it was at the down position but the oil leaks from gasket on hydrol fill tank if you open it you see the gears and the chain but it fills too the top with the oil then seeps out
I'll send it over Monday or Tuesday. I just got back from 2 weeks in Asia so I have a ton to catch up on..bear with me.
renej, you really should have started your own thread about your problem because this is a thread about an excavator. But since you've posted here, if you're saying the chain case that has the drive sprockets and chains fills to the top with oil and starts seeping out various places, then you have a failed drive motor leaking hyd oil into the chain case.
That would be great, thank you. Business or pleasure in Asia? I always wanted to visit, never took the time though. We have horses, so that kind of tethers us to the homestead.. B-)
Business. I attended the Bauma show in Shanghai, 7 days in China. Also did market research outside of the show, as well as visit the factory that builds our slewing rings. Then off to Korea for 4 days to visit with suppliers and do market research. I travel often for business, one of my duties is new product development for our organization. Face to face meetings are a must as well as seeing first hand how the product is manufactured. Personally I enjoyed Japan the most, followed by Korea then China. Have a good weekend, I'll get you the drawing as soon as I can.
That sounds like quite the trip, China is really quite impressive these days, their product quality and attention to detail has gone way up from just a few short years ago. They have learned from everyone, and are progressing quickly.
Finally had time to get the track off. Hopefully, I'll get to pulling this apart soon.
This is what the machine looks like: http://home.earthlink.net/imagelib/sitebuilder/misc/show_image.html?linkedwidth=actual&linkpath=http://home.earthlink.net/~lilliejm/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/tb25a.jpg&target=tlx_new&title=Our%20Takeuchi%20TB25
Finaldrive, Did you happen to find that exploded view? I'm getting ready to tow it into the shop next week to get started on this mess. Although I have to replace the starter first so I can get it running again. (When it rains it pours... B-)