Hey everyone. I have a 2005 TL takeuchi, randomly it will lose power to all of the controls (stop dead in its tracks) still be running but you can't shut it off. Theres a fuse in the back next to the battery that I pull out and replace to get it to shut off (new fuse blows and the skidsteer dies) It could happen in 2 mins or 2 months.. very random. Anyone have this issue or know of a fix? There must be a short somewhere.. Thanks for any help in advance!
There must be a wire rubbing somewhere.
Whats your email ? I can email schematic of the wiring with manuals if you like .
Thatd be great! I'll send you a dm now.
Email sent .
The relays can crack inside, and make/lose contact. Might be worth looking at them. You will see some are multi-relays that are soldered inside. I would suspect your safety relay is at fault. Although not your exact issue, these may help. HeavyEquipmentForums HeavyEquipmentForums
Post #2 here... HeavyEquipmentForums
So from reading other threads, I guess this is my bypass wires? The plug on the bottom is where I plug in my fuse that blows as soon as I plug it in. The blue wire is wired straight from the wiring harness for some reason..I guess previous owner had some sort of issue before.. Anyone have any ideas? I'm pretty lost.
He probably could not fit a fuseable link link the same. Where is the end of blue wire going ?
That red plastic piece appears to be a fuse. And the one with the home made fuse setup was probably the same red plastic but it had probably blew and they didn't have a spare. I believe the bypass wires are a little further up. Above the battery perhaps.
If it were me, first thing I'd do is remove the belly pans, raise the cab, and pressure wash it good. Then start inspecting the wires.
Bypass wires will be taped up . They should yellow caps plugs taped to the harness.
The blue wire is the second picture, it goes under the cab an into the wire harness.
Yeah, Ideally id like to move it before i do that. The guy cleaned his horse stalls with it so its full of ****. its not in the greatest spot to pressure wash it. (trust me thats my goal as well) I was kind of thinking the same thing but where did those 2 red wires come from then, that the homemade fuse is connected too?
For sure.
Those are the 3 system protection fusible links. They couldn't get one, so they made their own. Here's a pic in this thread... HeavyEquipmentForums One is to the Accessory relay (protection for everything key hot) 45Amp The second is to the key switch Battery feed (protection for everything that has power even with key off) 45Amp The third is for the engine intake heater. 65Amp
3 you say, so the one that is homemade use to look like a actual fuseable link..? So in theory I can just buy a replacement and repair it correctly? (I'd hope at least..)
They are high current fuses that Takeuchi calls fusible links.
They don't just blow. Something made it blow, so even if you replace it, it will probably blow again.
I belive the make shift fuse is for the hot fuseable link. Wouldn't it blow if the fuse is not strong enough? The fuse that was in there when first discovered was a 25 amp fuse, normally needs a 45..
Easiest way to repair close to stock is to splice a new connector on there. I picked a short one from my TB53FR. You'll have to lop off the other end, but, at $21, that's the easiest way that I know of to get the connector socket. 0394216630...Harness ($21) 1701330065...65A link, fusible ($4) 1701330045...45A link, fusible ($3) Prices are from my Takeuchi dealer. There may be other ways to get the connector for that "NARVA" fuse, but, i don't know of any (at this time). That $21 harness is #3 in this snapshot of a TB53FR harness.
Mine was having a similar issue. Turned out the red wire from the harness in your pic was intermittently shorting to ground next to the battery
tool_king, I too, would appreciate service manuals for my TL130. I need to look into the fuel cut off intermittently not staying fully open while starting and the left track recently seems to have lost some power
This is how yours looked once. I bought this one for a nissan 350zx and I could see no difference from the original. https://conceptzperformance.com/nis...nissan-300zx-90-96-z32-24370-89960_p_5474.php
There is NO difference, except the Takeuchi one is $3 to $4.
Thank you for that picture, we are gonna order a replacement an hopefully thats it. still not sure what the blue wire is bypassing though..
i still haven't nailed down a good source for parts
from what i find the dealer is the best bet unfortunately..
What's your email ? I will send you them .
DM with email address sent
I just email the manuals .
Sorry for the delay! Temp fix/process of elimination. I replaced the home made fusible with a 40 amp fusible. The fuse in the back is no longer blowing. (new one) Starts an runs now, after operating for a little bit, the horn fuse blows. You no longer lose power/controls of the machine but you lose the ability to shut off the machine, go to the back an touch that blue wire to the new 40 amp fusible link, the machine shuts off. Replace the horn fuse to start the machine again. Go it narrowed down to the shut off solenoid, I chased that blue wire that shuts it off an indeed, its tied into the shut off solenoid wire. Need to do more chasing and see if there is a short somewhere (must be) Or bad relay? Id think if its a relay it would blow the horn fuse right when you fire it up.. Will post back once I do some more chasing. EDIT: From a recent test run, I hooked up the blue wire back to the 40 amp fuse(new). Drove an bounced around for a little bit an couldn't get it to blow a fuse..