I just bought a 2016 Takeuchi TL8 with 1910 hours that is not running. I have tried to start it today when I picked it up; however, it won't crank. The engine will turn over but it is belching blue smoke from the exhaust and I noticed some faint blue smoke emit from the air filter housing. Is this a really bad sign? Engine damage? What could be the problem?
What’s the engine oil look like? How fast is it cranking? Any history? What’s the coolant look like? What does it sound like? Does it go chugga, chugga, chugga in 3/4 time? Or does it go chugga, chugga, clunk, clunk ?
What engine model and serial? Pull air filter and tube. Check turbo for play and see if its scaping housing. Turbo bushing may have let oil into engine. If so check for oil on in take side. Not a cheap fix if compression is bad. If you find oil on intake side pull injectors send injectors out. and check compession. They had injector problems that washed cylinders out and caused compression issues. If engine ran away on oil dpf will be plugged up too.
Before anything. All emissions is covered under 5 year federal warranty. You might luck out. If turbo went bad and took out engine warranty would cover new engine. That all depends on how good your local dealer is and when the machine was registered. We replaced alot of engines under warranty that had turbo failures and injector failures.
The turbo is considered emissions??
Remove the oil cap while trying to start. Look for smoke or pressure
Yes turbo injectors theres alot of things covered. Its 5 years or so many hours have to check when I get to work o thought it was 2000 hrs but it might be less. If one of the cylinders had oil in it and fires you might bend a rod. Check turbo I can give you better info with engine model and serial. Might be on a tag around rear door frame
I sure hope this could be a warranty item...I have no history on this machine other than purchased from a United Rentals new in Sep 2016.
Coolant is dark green; battery is dead so had to use a jumper....it spun over pretty good but chugged heavy smoke....oil is coal black. No history other than it was purchased Sep 2016 new from a United Rentals.
I just included the serial number and model info below on another post. I just bought this machine yesterday and picked it up....loaded with a fork lift.
Lots of great suggestions, so far. Let's keep this going. Gotta get Heavy Chevy up and running his recent machine. ! Maybe drain a shot of oil off the bottom of the crankcase to check for coolant and cut the oil filter open for an inspection.
Were you able to track down any warranty data? I did a search online and Google says Takeuchi gives a 2 year/2000 hr warranty unless you get the extended protection plan. I have no idea on the warranty history if the precious owner did....I seriously doubt it since they sold it.
I forgot sorry I'll look this morning. You have to pull turbo hose and check turbo Dpf may be plugged as well. I had one that plugged air filter ripped hole in air filter then clogged the dpf up. Only code it had was low boost. Luckily I was able to change turbo and dpf all "fixed" compression was within spec unbelievable it happened so fast it didn't take out the engine was my idea
over 50hp should be covered 5 years 3000 hours. https://www.kubotausa.com/docs/default-source/service/kubota_warranty.pdf?sfvrsn=23fa01a7_12 if turbo caused engine failure engine can be replaced under warranty its a federal law.
Ive replaced over 12 engines through Kubota over the past 5 years Im not sure on your engine model what the coverage is. try calling a few dealers and maybe kubota engine. I was just involved with proof of failure and physical replacement the warranty end was delt with by corporate service writer. https://www.kubotaengine.com/parts-service/service-support/warranties/
Would it matter that I'm not the original owner?
I dont believe so. It's a federal law that the engine meets emission standards for 5 years so if the turbo fails, injector, injection pump. The problem is the manufacturer can say the turbo failed because you ran it without an air filter or the injector failed because you bypassed the fuel filters. It's an expensive motor waranty pays well on engine replacement and because I could do the job start to finish in about 15 hours diagnostics and everything we made good money. If you find a shop that will work with you and can make money off of it there more inclined to help with waranty. Call around and see. Have you checked the turbo yet? I've had a few that broke the shaft including a brand new engine
Unfortunately after reading the warranty information link you sent, it only covers 2 years/2000 hours.....I missed the year mark by 3 years.
Your over 50hp your under the last one That's a 70hp but it's from 2020 you have to call kubota engone
Ok, thx...I will check...worst they can tell me is no.
I just texted my rep a message to see if they do warranty claims...we shall see. Thanks for the info...if they don't, I will need to pick your brain on the best way to pull the engine.
You buy this from ironplanet?
You may just need a turbo. New motor 18k
Auction time
Whew! That is high $$$.....would it not start if the turbo was gone?
If turbo went and sent oil into intake it could have clogged dpf to the point of not being able to get enough air to start. If it ran on oil it may have taken out the rings. Tier 4 motors are not cheap
Wow $18K! Man that is a lot money for a little motor.
Anyone know where I can find the engine manual for this Kubota V3307-CR-T-EF02 engine? I've got some testing to due but really need the manual for some references. I have the workshop manual for the TL8 but it doesn't cover the engine details. I guess the turbo is shot with all this oil everywhere....just hoping that it didn't ruin the engine before it shut down.
Have you tried starting it with the oil cap removed? See any smoke come out from there?
Not yet, I want to pull the glow plugs to make sure there is no oil inside the cylinder before I crank it over again. I want to do a compression test as well.
Oil getting sucked into the intake will cause the dpf to get plugged and that's probably the main reason it wont start. This will happen if the air filter is plugged, ccv filter plugged or turbo sucking oil. Ccv filter is supposed to be changed at 1200 hours being a rental company you bought it from I doubt it was done. You might get lucky. Clean the oil out of the turbo with break cleaner and take some pictures try spinning impeller to see if it runs or has excessive play
1) Do I need to remove the turbo to give it a good cleaning or are you saying that I can just spray brake cleaner on it as it sits and clean it...along with some compressed air or should I remove it first then clean? 2) After I clean it and figure out how to remove the glow plugs to check the compression and once I remove and clean the filter, should I then keep the exhaust pipe off from the turbo to the DPF off and try to start it? or should I remove the DPF and send off to get cleaned first? 4) With all of that oil everywhere, do you think the turbo seal is blown? I didn't notice any play in the impeller when I pushed or rotated it.
If it has good compression you can run it with dpf disconnected for a minute but at that point you should pull dpf and send it out. Pull injectors send those out. You should pull intake hoses and try and clean as much oil out of intake as you can. I personally wouldnt start it until everything is checked and reassembled. If you have good compression it will run. You could get oil out of cylinders and run it but you will likely run into issues and codes with a dpf that needs to be cleaned. The turbo seal is a bronze bushing if there is a little play and it doesnt rub housing you might be okay. Spray off turbo with brake clean you can leave turbo on. If it was hitting housing you'll see scratches and damage to fins
Gotcha, I managed to get a picture of the engine SN this morning before leaving for work. I will take the hoses off and soak them in hot water and dawn dish detergent. After spraying brake clean on the turbo, can I use compressed air too to force out the grim without damaging anything?
Today, I managed to pull the glow plugs and do a compression test: #1 glow plug appears to be burned ; however, the compression test results after checking each cylinder for 15 secs: #1) 480psi #2) 430 #3) 440 #4) 410. I'm not sure why the #1 glow plug was burned as well as the #1 cylinder has higher compression than any other. The other thing I noted today after getting the CTL on level ground is the oil level is high. Could that be my problem with seeing oil/blue smoke everywhere.....out the turbo....air fliter, exhaust...etc. See pics. Water inside the Oil Separator......
Oil a little high wouldn't cause issues. How much oil is there? Drain it? And check it smell the oil to see if it's diluted with diesel, which could point to an injector issue.
It appears to be about 3/4" above the full mark. I also noticed discoloration on the dipstick up to the oil line....thinking it maybe diesel mixture as you suggest that caused discoloration. Will drain and check smell as it does seem little thin. I will plan to remove the injectors and have them tested at a injector shop. Do I have to remove the fuel rail or do I have enough flex in the pipes to unthread?
Fuel rail can stay but all the lines have to be removed from rail to injector.
If you have a clogged air filter you can get oil into turbo from it pulling air from where ever it can. I've been told that and have seen it. If your ccv freezes same thing happens. If your oil is over full and blocks hose where ccv goes into case wont that happen as well and even worse. Having said this water was found in ccv so maybe it's just a ccv freeze issue and injector filling base with fuel. Send out a oil sample to take quess work out of it and rule out coolant. It's likely multiple bad Injectors its common with these engines
Gotcha
Will do, thx
Here is the picture of the turbo numbers you asked about. Also, do I have to remove the pipe at the exhaust manifold coming from the top of the turbo or is there enough flex to bend the pipe out of the way to remove the spring clamp?