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Terex ss1048 poor throttle response

OldSalt ยท 2013-12-19 18:34

Hello, I'm a new member here. I have a SS1048 Terex telehandler with the John Deere engine that I acquired used. It seems to have very poor throttle response. When ever a load hits the engine from the hydraulics the engine will most likely die unless I am standing on the throttle. Also, the response to the throttle pedal is equally poor. Frequently the engine won't accelerate when I press the throttle slowly even if I press all the way to the floor, but if I release and stamp the throttle it will surge the rpms. As you can imagine, this makes it hard to handle loads delicately. I suspect this is something in the injection pump, but is it something that can be adjusted or am I looking at having the injection pump worked on? Also, the serial number is 977xx. I believe this makes it a 1997 model. Can anyone confirm this? Thanks for any info

Replies12
  1. #1thepumpguysc2013-12-19 19:03

    More than likely the fuel system is "crudded-up".. Other than checking fuel flow TO THE PUMP and changing the filters there's not a lot you can do. If you get me some #'s off the injection pump, I can walk you thru timing and removal..

  2. #2Delmer2013-12-19 22:10

    Yeah, start with checking fuel flow to the pump, or fuel pressure to the pump. Does it smoke or struggle when you step on the gas and it doesn't change? Does it seem to run alright once it gets to high rpm's with load? If the machine has been sitting unused for many months, I'd add some snake oil and/or biodiesel and run it like a rental. Have you checked that the linkages are free and moving correctly? You could take the cover off of the pump and see how gunked up it is before pulling it.

  3. #3OldSalt2013-12-20 04:14

    Hey, thanks for the replies. The engine runs smoothly enough at any speed. No smoke ever. It just has very little throttle reaction to changing loads. When a load is applied, such as moving the boom, the engine rpms are drawn right down till the engine dies unless I am holding the throttle up manually. No governor response to pick up the load. If I am holding the rpms up as I apply the load, it still pulls the rpms down, but not so much as to kill the engine. I don't believe I should be needing to move the throttle manually to keep the engine running as a load is applied. Once I get the engine revved up, the hydraulics run normally but the when I release the load the engine revs surge even higher. I've checked the linkages and they seem tight and I get the same reaction to manual throttle movement even when I move the control on the side of the injection pump. If I am trying to drive forward and step down on the accelerator pedal slowly it just does nothing but then when I get the pedal way down, the rpms will suddenly surge way up. Sometimes I can press the pedal to the floor and nothing happens, but then if I release the pedal and immediately stamp back down on it to the floor the rpms will jump way up and off we go. No fine throttle control at all. I really don't know much about the machines history. We acquired it when we bought a foreclosed property that had belonged to a construction company that went out of business. It could very well have been sitting around for a while. What is the Snake Oil you mention??

  4. #4thepumpguysc2013-12-20 05:15

    Theres a thread under "general industry questions" about diesel fuel additives.. best to worse.. If your pump is a Stanadyne/Roosa Master you can remove the side and top covers to get an idea of the condition inside the inj. pump. If its a Delphi/CAV it sounds like you've got a clogged "hidden filter" in the inlet.. I can walk you thru the removal and cleaning of the filter. Don't try it w/o instructions.

  5. #5Delmer2013-12-20 16:05

    Snake oil is anything like Power Service, Marvel Mystery Oil, biodiesel, acetone etc. I'd mix 4 parts biodiesel with one part acetone in a gallon can and run some temporary hoses to run the engine directly on that, let it idle for a while then stomp the pedal repeatedly to free up the governor. Of course that won't fix a broken spring, or any "performance upgrades" from the previous owner, but it might help with the varnish. Could you post a picture of the pump? For some reason I'm imagining silicone and some bad vice grip marks on most of the bolts...

  6. #6OldSalt2013-12-21 04:43

    This injection pump seems to be a Lucas pump. Type 1196 according to the tag. It does not look like it has ever been touched with a wrench. The paint on the bolts is not scratched at all.

  7. #7thepumpguysc2013-12-21 09:14

    get me the DES #..# after the type... and I'll walk you thru the filter clean out.

  8. #8OldSalt2013-12-21 10:33

    The DES number is 8920A190W Thanks for the help.

  9. #9barklee2013-12-21 10:51

    I have a parts SS1048 with that pump if you find that you need some parts. Good luck!

  10. #10thepumpguysc2013-12-21 11:56

    Turn off the fuel.. Remove the big inlet nut. Remove the big spring. With a small screwdriver hold down the center[pressure regulator].. With a "hook scribe" or 90* scribe.. grab the plastic filter that is on the outside of the pres. regulator and pull up.. blow off and reinstall.

  11. #11OldSalt2013-12-21 21:23

    Hey, thanks, I'll give it a try when I get to work monday. And I'll keep the spare pump in mind if it comes to that. Thanks

  12. #12OldSalt2015-04-23 12:01

    I guess I should post a final solution on this thread. It was a fuel issue we were having. After cleaning out the fuel filters more than once we wound up having the fuel tank removed and professionally cleaned and coated inside. That finally cured the problem. It runs strongly and the governor responds perfectly. Thanks every one