I have an older boomlift with starting issues. When starting it turns over and tries to start but stalls right out. After a few more attempts of turning the key the starter stops making contact (not turning over), but just klicks. Its like it times out. It doesn't seem like the battery because it always has power when it does turn over. Are there glow plugs or starter relays on this type of equipment? Also, the tilt switch quite working in the basket, but the one at the control panel works. New here, hope I posted in the right section. Thanks
Deutz or Cummins? Have you tried starting it while connected to a booster box, charger or jumper cables?
It's a Deutz. I did try jumping it today, it made no difference. It's like the solenoid is clicking, not sure it even has a solenoid. Also had some issue with boom joystick, it swings good the one and slow if at all the other way. Just got this used and trying to make a usable machine. Thanks
Older Terex? Possibly a 912 Deutz? Just a wild guess of possibilities. It's had this start/running problem before you obtained it, previous owner has used the starter so much that it now suffers. After a few minutes of cranking, starter and solenoid heat up, electrical resistance is so great that it stops working. As for the start then die out, if it's a 912, some of the lift pumps on those had a strainer screen inside the lift pump. Screen gets clogged and prevents enough fuel flow to allow engine to run.
40 years plus of starter issues on farm tractors, combines, dozers, and trucks, and a Genie S-65. Starter problems. Starter brush holders that are rusted and weak spring tension, melt down of wiring in side of starter, Corrosion problems in side the battery cable lugs, Solenoid internal contact wear of copper plate with posts, Bad grounds of battery cable to motor case ground. Then there is the battery which has some internal sulfate which checks 12.5 at no load and drops to 9 volts with a load. I have never had a starter armature or field winding open up, just brushes worn, holders rusty, weak springs and rusty electrical contact points. Solenoids replaced many, the internal contact post arcing eventually burns up the copper posts and the contact plate. Have had corrosion on the surface of a cable inside the lug. Have taken a hammer and flattened the lug tighter and soldered it. On ground from the the battery, will run a ground cable directly to the starter case mounting bolts. The whole point of this is to eliminate any contact point where there might be resistance in the circuit. one ohm of resistance will drop the voltage 5 volts if you are pulling 50 amps of current thru the circuit. Make sure all contact points are,clean, bear metal, and tight. A volt meter can be your best friend. As you start from the battery and go down the circuit, you will find your voltage drop and that is where the problem usually is. Bob OHio
Thanks will try all of the above. The starter appears to be on the side of the motor you can't see when doors are open.
Had to take Lift to the shop they use a scan tool to find the problem. It was the control board on the platform. The ground board and the platform board talk back and forth, there was a drop in signal between the two. Thats what they said will fix the tilt switch and the starting issue. Only $900 for a new board, thats way more than I expected. Thanks for all the input.