Was using my dozer the other day and started to notice a smell of hot and unburned fuel with a slight engine misfire. With the engine running at fast idle allowing for cooldown, I noticed diesel fuel dripping at the front of the engine and onto the belly pan below. After shutting the engine down and crawling into the compartment best I can, It appears the #1 fuel injector high pressure line has been rubbed through from vibration. Originally isolated in rubber, this has long deteriorated away and the steel support clamp bears directly on the steel line. The engine is an 11000 Allis-Chalmers and I have a Roosa-Master injection pump. I know Shied Diesel used to make up injection lines, but don't know if they still do and plan to check with them as fairly close. Them, and Thompson Diesel Service in Tulsa, and OKC were the only vendors I knew that offered this service. Any other known vendors who can make up the steel lines? I don't mind the cost but want it right when finished. Thanks,
This fault is the cup seals on the injection pump driveshaft leaking fuel into the crankcase again. Oil level is several inches high on the stick, very clear, and strongly smelling of diesel fuel. What I thought was an injection line leaking, (very limited visibility) turns out to be fuel slinging off the hamonic balancer onto the fuel line. This was seen via borescope camera that doesn't take photos. Kind of difficult to snake the lens through, and around things, but the leakage around the front crank seal is evident. I have new seals and the proper tools for their installation. Prior owner had this problem twice and had the pump rebuilt the second time, but he didn't grease the seals, shaft, or pilot tube before pushing the pump back onto the pump driveshaft. He did soak them with diesel fuel thinking that would work. I'm sure he rolled a seal as he tells me the pump was "difficult" to get to slide back onto the driveshaft. Tractor is homeward bound this next weekend as it's needed around here before the weather starts turning cold for some grounds cleanup and restructuring. This is a seal from a prior change out. I think these shown leaking is why the pump was rebuilt but not certain. Looks to have rolled in a prior installation to me:
If u haven’t already installed the new seals, lube them generously w clean engine oil.. Seals AND p tube.. I’ve found that works the best.. DO NOT USE GREASE.!!
Thank you. I've always used engine oil myself and never had problems in the past. Grease probably wasn't the best term to use but the injection shop I use gave me a small bottle of assembly lube and it's kinda thick for the pump seals and pilot tube. It is a Stanadyne labeled bottle. First "DC" series pump I've worked with. Any thing to do different than the DB series?
The only big thing is, the end of the drive shaft has a DOT.. inside the pump is a DOT.. The pump has to go on, dot to dot.. THAT guarantees the pump is on the correct stroke..
You still set the engine timing on it's spec, (flywheel mark in this engine) and align the lines in the pump window just the same also as with the "DB" series when pulling and installing correct?
Yes sir.. that’s correct. I don’t happen to know what degree marks are tho.. If u had lined up the lines in the window before removing it, that would be a plus..
I've always brought the engines up on the compression stroke setting the engine timing marks at the appropriate degrees of advance and pulled the pump after ensuring the marks are aligned in the pump window. Have always worked alone so no worries with anyone rolling engine over in my absence and they went back together easily. Tractor is 178 miles distant from me and need to drain and change oil when seals are changed before I can load it to bring home.
Just to throw it out there, what r the degree marks on the flywheel when the lines are lined up.??
#1 of course if the engine flywheel. You can see the index marks on it's perimeter at the top. #8 is the timing pointer which is bolted to the flywheel housing and is stationary. You align the engine injection timing mark, (in degrees) with the flywheel and pointer, then install the injection pump aligning the marks in the pump window IIRC. This should give you static timing; again IIRC. The advance mechanism within the injection pump alters injection timing when the engine is running for advance and retard depending on power demands and rpm. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
That’s my question.. WHAT engine * do u set the pointer on.?? 0* 8* 12*. 18*BTDC.??
18 degrees BTDC is static timing for this engine. I was having a hard time understanding your question. Here is a snip from the manual: Here is a photo of the injection pump just before being sent in for rebuild by the prior owner:
Pulled the pump yesterday and yes there is the inner cup seal less than perfect, but I notice what I believe to be a groove worn into the brass pilot tube. I took the pump into the fuel shop I use for evaluation and he is going to ascertain whether it can be polished or should be replaced. Kind of a bitch to find this as the tractor is 178 miles distant so was hoping to replace the seals, change engine oil and filters, then put it back together. Is what it is I suppose but want to get it addressed correctly with a fault now known. I bagged all open lines with plastic bags and zip ties and sealed up the timing cover and driveshaft with plastic and duct tape so no water intrusion possibility. Driveshaft looked alright to me with no real wear in the splines. Easy job except one pump flange nut for access. I have a 1/2 moon wrench usually for Detroit Diesel fuel pumps and it worked alright for access, but still cramped for ingress to the area.
Talked to the pump guy yesterday evening and he tells me the pump was not rebuilt but only recalibrated, (apparently). Tells me the pilot tube does have scratching and a wear ring worn into it. Everything else looks fine however. I gave him the go ahead to make it right so this should address any issues. Probably pick it up next week and install over next weekend.
Well harvest got into the fray so didn't get this done timely as anticipated. Lots of other stuff accomplished however. Meant to post a photo earlier but forgot and evidently the inner seal "rolled" when the pump was being pushed back onto the mating splines by the prior owner. Probably did this using only diesel fuel as a lubricant. Pump is rebuilt proper I'm told and a new brass pilot tube has been installed. I gather it was gouged up a bit worse than I'd seen so deemed unusable. I'm going to run a chase die over the pump mounting studs to clean them up along with new retention nuts. These are a bit rounded on the flats from being worked with a few times by inexperienced hands. No charge at all on the pump rebuild, seals, or assembly lubricant to put it back together. Apparently the former employee was paid on commission and only recalibrated the pump but invoiced for rebuild so this inappropriate action has been corrected. I have the proper Stanadyne tools to install these umbrella seals correctly so with everything renewed and cleaned up don't really anticipate any problems. Timing marks on flywheel are set at 18 degrees BTDC and pump marks are aligned in window. No dot on this pump but a "tang" so the pump will only install one way. I aligned timing marks prior to pump removal and engine has not been rotated so should slip right back together.
Slipped right back together and all is well.
Ran engine another three hours today. Oil level remains on the full mark without climbing. Upon first start at low idle speed, engine oil pressure is in excess of 60psi climbing to about 80psi. Oil does not wreak of diesel fuel at all.