The track on the right side of dozer chatters alot when moving. All the plates are tight. The measurements are as follows. Right side between sprocket and carrier roller is 17/8”, carrier roller to front idler is 23/8” Left side same order of measurement is 2” and 25/8”. The left is right on the verge of being loose but the right one is jumping more. Should I tighten these up and to what? Thanks Ricky
Post a photo taken from the LH side of the tractor and one from the RH side that show the complete tracks from sprocket to idler. You need to measure the exposed length of chrome on the track tensioner cylinder that’s behind the idler. Doesn’t the operator Manual include the track tension specifications.?
Here you go Nige. The chrome is at 27/8” showing.
That's weird because the right side looks slightly tight and it isn't much difference.
If you didn’t already know, when measuring and adjusting tracks, to be the most accurate, you need to drive straight ahead without any turning for about 30 or 40’ to allow the tracks to settle into their operating parameters. Don’t back up. Lock the brake. Then measure
I think the tracks maybe look too tight, but it may be an illusion of the photo. If you stretch a piece of string from the track above the sprocket to the idler then measure the distance from it to the top of a grouser bar as shown by the blue arrow, not to the base of the shoe. The total of measurements 3 & 4 added together should be between 1.8 and 2.2". Edit: Count how many total track links you have on each side. Should be 44.
Thanks guys because i was doing it totally wrong, and i have the manual, but it didnt explain it like Nige. One question 56wrench. I basically let the dozer run push the deceleration pedal all in, lower rpm to an idle then shift to neutral. What do you mean by Lock the brake?
This is how things look when done by the book
Here’s how I would do it. Dozer on level ground, blade lifted about 6”. Run forward at medium RPM in 1st gear. Simultaneously flick transmission lever to neutral and hit the decelerator. Let the tractor stop on its own. Apply park brake. Gently lower blade to ground. Measure track sag.
Apply the brake preventing it from rolling backward a bit which may skew the slack in the tracks, giving you false measurements
Ricky, attached is the spec on how to tighten your tracks like my D5M. Pickup that guide from cat nice to have. Kevin
Excellent suggestion. I went looking in my library and actually found an electronic copy of that same document.
Sorry guys been dump truck broke down and it became top priority. This morning i was able to measure the tracks. If i convert the measurements Nige posted 1.8= 1 13/16 and 2.2= 2 3/16. My measurements total on the right side 1 11/16 on the left is 2 7/16. Im a little tight on right and a little loose on left. If i compare the left to right track almost 3/4” difference. I will adjust and see if that helps.
Ricky follow the cat specs I sent u should be 1.4 low 1 high 1.8 make sure u move the cat forward and let it coast to a stop without apply brakes I do it twice to make sure Kevin
The Undercarriage Management document is at odds with the Service Manual SEBU6901 for Ricky's particular D5M Serial Number 3DR00216. Refer to the diagram in Post #6. "If the machine is equipped with a carrier roller, then the total of dimension (3) and dimension (4) should be 2.2 ± 0.40 inch." So that is actually looser than I mentioned earlier, a total slack of somewhere between 1.8 and 2.6 inches (1-13/16" and 2-5/8"). Ricky, according to your measurements the RH side @ 2-7/16" is within the acceptable range. The LH side @ 1-11/16" needs letting off a bit to somewhere around 2-1/4".
For machines with carrier rollers add measurements 3&4 then divide by 2 that’s how u get to 1.4
That’s not what the manual says. The total of 3 + 4 should be 2.2” plus or minus 0.4”. The wording is pretty clear.
Believe Ricky has a D5m which I read 1.4
Ok I definitely understand there is a difference between the two documents. I have read both and both state two totally different ways to measure. Bigbudsr67 states 1.4 which is roughly 1 3/8”. If i take my measurements and divide by 2 for an average i get Left = 1 3/16” Right is roughly 3/4” so i would need to loosen both sides especially the right. Nige explanation which is shown well in post 6 shows the right side needing let off a bit. Both ways show the right side being to tight. PS:: I forgot to count links in track which i will today. Thanks guys because your both correct in regards to the information you have.
Ok i have gotten around to counting the pads and i have 44 on both sides. Do they make a special wrench to get to the top bolt? Cant get a socket on it and a wrench is to big to turn inside. Its a 22mm. Manual states to loosen top bolt one full turn to let grease out and then tighten back up and add grease to get correct track sag.
That confirms the tracks haven’t been shortened by removing a link which is often the case on older machines as an alternative to replacing the complete link assembly. An open-end wrench should loosen it. It shouldn’t be that tight.
Nige, that bolt should turn counter clockwise to loosen correct?
That's correct. It's actually a bolt with a conical end on it that screws into a mating seat in the block. The specified torque is only 26 ft lbs. Not a very good illustration but it gives you the idea. That's the two fittings on the adjuster.