Well, in theory everything should work but it don't Rims all painted, all the rusty areas sandblasted, primed, epoxy filled, primed and painted, gallon of Murphy's paste lube concentrate, put about a quart total on the tire beads, all the rim seating and slipping areas, new onion ring, new but wrong fu%^*ng valve stem, JD parts shows the small kubota sized stem, not the monster loader size. The paper parts book has the part number for the big bore valve stem. So glop everything up, use the forks to coax the tire onto the rim, slide on all the other parts, o-ring and lock ring, *got the lock rings sandblasted and painted too* put everything on and hit it with the compressor. The tire starts to shift on the beads and then the air leakage equals the air input and end of show. I'd figure one of those cig lighter plug in compressors should do the job, it shows a tractor on the box. Actually its a little 2hp shop compressor with a 20 gal tank, not anywheres near enough to do the job. I'll have the road service guys come out replace the valve stems and mount the other two tires. Have the clip on chuck for big and small bore, 10' hose gauge and valve, just not enough wind in the sails to get over the hump. A question on the o-ring, its a fair bit smaller than the groove, I'm thinking its supposed to get jacked in place by the pressure, it only sits maybe 1/32 above the diameter of the rim. Again, that's the part number JD called for. A fatter ring would make sealing a bit better but maybe its's correct.
Do you have the valve stem in? It only allows so much flow. Have seen tires installed without the valve core to get the bead seated and then aired up to pressure with the valve core back in.
Bead blaster is in order. Rarely do I have a tubeless tire seat without it. I store all mine sitting up on the tread for that reason. Even letting the sit in the sun, nice clean beads and some stil refuse to seat without a little shot of air. I made mine from an air tank years ago. 2" ball valve and a short length of pipe with the end smashed down to help cover a little more area. Back when I built mine they were all $350 or more. They've come down to a price that's almost not worth the effort. Service guys will have em done in no time! Good luck! Junkyard
I had taken the valve core out and still too slow, then I took the liquid stem out, keeping in mind the JD supplied stems are wrong, they're 5/8 not 3/4 hole so there's some restriction there too, After taking the liquid stem out I was able to put an air hose fitting against the liquid stem and let it rip, that was the most airflow but still not enough. I've seen the 5 gallon tank air blasters, I'm not quite sure where you'd stuff it in on a 500 pound tire 20.5x25 but the tire is still a massive volume. I'm pretty certain the road service truck with is 175cfm compressor will have no trouble.
O ring should fill groove in rim with approximately half of its diameter protruding above rim, what came out when you removed tyre, wide or narrow o ring.
That might be part of the issue, the o-ring sits loose in the groove, skipping JD I see there are two different sizes, 1/4 and 3/8, I have the 1/4, the 3/8 would definately be a lot bigger in the rim and perhaps that's what's needed, mine sit above the rim about 1/16 inch. The tires were solid filled so we had to have them pressed off, I didn't see if there were o-rings left over, the grooves were clean so it looks like something was in there to keep them sealed.
Tubeless tires can be a bear to seat with a small compressor. My setup is direct line from a two stage 80 gallon IR compressor, bypassing the regulator, with 1/2 ball valve, clip on tire chuck with valve stem punch removed, to a valve stem without the core. Roll tire behind a wall, remove core, clip on chuck and OPEN the ball valve and let her rip. There is a gage down ****** of the ball valve so I can close the valve and read tire pressure remotely. Hasn't failed yet. And there is a 100 foot hose so I can stand behind the wall if something should go wrong. Best of luck. Howard
Thanks Hetkind, yeah, with the wrong o-rings I was getting a little pressure into the tire, it'd move on the beads but then the o-ring would give up, I think with the right o-ring, we might stand a chance, I did make up a 10' hose with clip on chuck, pressure gauge and quarter turn valve.
Yeah. When the leakage equals the air compressor capacity, nothing happens. Thick amounts of soap paste on the inside (air side) of the gaps will lessen the air leaks to where the tire holds enough air pressure on the sidewalls to pop every thing into place. Enough soap paste (a lot) to where it obdurates or fills the gaps. Sometimes a little hammering on the loose rim, when you pressurize the tire, is necessary to get it to slide into place. The loose rim gets hung up if it is cocked a little bit, like a brake drum that's tight on a hub, and a small jiggle or lots of jiggling is necessary to get it to seat. Tapping around the rim with a hammer does that. Prior experience is a real help. "I'm pretty certain the road service truck with is 175cfm compressor will have no trouble." That's not true. I had a 20.5x25 tire changed recently by a tire company. The young man doing it said he was new to the job. He tried to inflate it without soap, so it just leaked air, and he hammered on the rim while adding air, hammering very hard, towards the center of the wheel, for about ten minutes, which I did not like. Nothing good happened. I said, 'maybe you need some soap'. He got out the bucket of soap, and then tried to push soap into the ring and bead gaps with his fingers, while flowing compressed air into the tire. He had his fingers between the tire bead and the rim... pushing soap in against the air. I told the guy that's not a safe thing to do. So I picked up the hammer he had dropped on the ground, and told him to stand back. I thought that the loose rim looked a little cocked. So I gave the high spot a half-hearted wack, parallel to the axle, with the hammer, and the bead and rim snapped into place in about a millionth of a second. Pure luck, a hole-in-one hit. The bead seated with enough violence to splash soap on to the tire truck 20 feet away, from the gap where his fingers had been. - Be Careful with tires!
I'm used to little tires, not the giant OTR monsters, sometimes a sledgehammer smack in the middle of the tread adds enough volume change and vibrations to get it to jump, The tires have a lot of recoil so even without air they pushed everything right up snug against the lock ring. For 2 tires I used a half gallon of soap. I'll hopefully have the 3/8 o-rings this week and will give it another try. just using the tractor forks and a couple wood planks to shove everything back, seems pretty easy in that respect
I have a 10 gallon seater from northern tools, heres a link for an 8 gallon, I dont see the 10 anymore.. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200465525_200465525 it works rather well even big tires..
Yeah, on my 24 inch backhoe tire I could see where that'd work but on the loader, it needs tractor and forks to shove the sidewalls in more than a fraction of an inch and everything is pushed nicely against the beads. A crowbar barely moves them. New, correct sized o-rings are in the mail, I bet that'll solve the issues!
I must be showing my age, but I can't believe know one has mentioned the staring fluid trick yet, must be one of those no longer politically correct things but back before you could call tweet or text for help it's how it was done lol.
I've done that but and had thought about it seems my actual problem is a wrong o-ring. The murphy's makes a good initial seal.
Oh, I think OSHA or MSHA would like to see that starter fluid trick go away. When the rim lets go, it can be a terrible mess. Howard
Starting fluid wont go "poof" anymore. Just like everything else, we have been protected from ourselves.
I've done the starting spray thing one piece rims many times. I really don't think I'd try it with a 20.5x25 and a three piece rim...
Well, once you investigate enough mishaps where stupid people did stupid things, you try to make things idiot proof. Turning a 2,000lb wheel and tire assembly into a fragmentation grenade is not my idea of a good time. Howard
Holy **** we got 3 out of 4 inflated before the rain wore down my nerves and I started making mistakes. Front 2 rims are a couple inches narrower so they seated in a jiffy, maybe 2 -3 pounds of air to seat. rear tires needed the old strap and comealong around the tire, got one seated pretty easy, other one is being a bear, might soap it up more but its going to sit until sunday. New o-rings of the right size did the trick, fronts seated instantly, will work on that one remaining rear later, even the small compressor was plenty enough once you get it close.
Right on!
Well, started at 30psi and that was super squishy looking, they're the Michelin XLTA tires The book has a lot of different pressures listed and it looked like 55 might be the correct one, we went up to 45 cause I didn't want to wait for 55, looks a lot better, will see how it goes.