I’ve been doing a lot of mobile calls lately. Yesterday I went out to a yard to fix a pump (that’s what I do), and ran over something that cut into the sidewall of an inner. So that tire has to go. I was able to take it off and limp home on just the outer, so at least there’s that. But I have to replace that tire. Since you don’t do an inner without doing the outer, I gotta replace that one too ?! Dang. That was a thousand dollar service call! 10r22.5 are $400 on up. I’m considering putting a set of used ones on there because there’s no way that old truck will outlast a set of new tires. I drive it 3-4 times a week, almost no highway. I maybe put 10K miles a year on it. Maybe. The only other time I put a used tire on anything, I was broke and in college and I didn’t have other options. It seemed dumb then and seems dumb now. Ugh.
At least it's not a Subaru. Trash one tire on their AWD system and you have to replace all 4 to keep the tire diameters consistant. Otherwise you could damage the transmission system. That said, I still really like the Subarus. Great vehicles. If it was me in your situation, I would try to find a used tire with the same OD to match up with the good one that you still have. That should be the cheapest and most logical way out of the dilema.
I have a 2005 Subaru Outback and 2009 Outback with summer and winter tires. Different diameters mixed and matched down to the wear bars. Never had a problem with AWD system or transmission both over 200k miles. Some things are over hyped, I had a 2012 Chevrolet Tahoe and a shock went bad was under warranty the only replaced one I said why did you not do both front ? They say only 1 was bad, I said if it was not under warranty what would you do ? They said make me replace in Pairs LOL.
I called every tire shop in town, and nobody had any used ones. Even heavy truck bone yards didn’t. They put these on school busses for what, 20 years? You’d think someone would have a few. Anyway, there may be hope for me, I just found a whole set of 6. It’s 100 miles from me, but I’m going to go check em out. Unless they’re shagged, I’ll do it. Then I get the joy of mounting them myself. That oughtta be a fun way to spend my Saturday.
Is this just a regular heavy truck? I've never heard of replacing both tires. If your doing 10k a year I'd just do one. The problem with used tires is that tires only last around 5-7 years then they are junk now.
Medium. International 1954. She’s old n slow but gets me where I need to be. I think if I were going to go new, I would just replace the 1. But if these used ones work out, that would be preferable. We’ll see what the weekend holds.
My 1965 in my avatar goes 46 mph
I’ve got a good, used Michelin 11r22.5 XDS2, you can have, Mr. WLHEquipment. It might be a great match with your good tire. It’s on a fairly new KW T880 that was recently upside down. I won’t be needing it, anymore.
Wow! I hope you didn’t get stuck under that Kenworth when it went TU! I think 11r22.5 is a bit bigger than a 10r22.5, isn’t it? By more than just tread width, I think. Isn’t it an inch or 2 bigger in diameter? Thanks for the offer though!
Driver got banged up a little, but he’ll be aight. It’s just a interesting coincidence because here, on TT505, is a good example of what happens when mismatched tires are ran on duals. The inside tire was changed for whatever reason with a slightly smaller diameter recap during a roadside repair. Ignorance and indifference, nobody at this terminal followed up with taking care of the issue. It doesn’t take long to burn up the smaller tire. The bald tire didn’t have anything to do with the accident. But, the cell phone probably did.
If you have any r-mix companies around that run fronts, you may hit them up. Older Advance, and some Phoenix used 9-22.5 on the lift axles. If you’re really lucky they may have a few NOS that no longer fits their new mixers and they would like to get rid of them.
Definitely can understand a semi or a truck that is all highway and get lots of miles, but 10k a year miles id run just about anything on a dual
Hmmm if I ever have to work under a truck again, that will be what I do flip it on its side. I just hate working under trucks.
Tires need to be closely matched in diameter on a dual wheel axle end. If not the taller tire matches the shorter tire quickly by wearing faster till they equalize in diameter as it will carry the greatest of the load weight. Surprised to see wedge brakes on that upset mixer truck; not common around here any longer.
My experience on mismatched tires is opposite yours.
All of our trucks run recaps on the rear. I think they're Bandag. I wouldn't run them on a highway truck, but recaps are made a lot better than they were. In a fleet of 7 tractors and ten or eleven tandem dump trucks, we have never had a tread let go
Those must be fancy new disc brakes.
Bandag was probably the best cap for many years running. I'm not far from Muscatine, IA where Bandag was headquartered for many years and used to pick up tires there a lot. They would recap your cores, and ensure you got the best work available. I don't know how they do nowadays with the new ownership.
I think that is what happened to me also, had a mismatched pair that took forever to get back in sync with rotating in and out and trying to find the perfect set of 4 that matched. Other times when I needed one from popping like the OP I was able to quickly get what I needed used at the tire store. I'll just take any old tire with any pattern, with the same amount of wear to match what's there and run them both out to the end.
Or, just flip them over completely.
I’ll recap a premium casing one time. If the casing is less than ten years old. They get tested in the “boom box” after the visual inspection. I use Goodyear G152 bands. Purcell build a new facility in the MatSu Valley and appear to be making a quality product. Mismatched, odd ball, off -brand casings get sold to Purcell and then the 10-wheeler guys buy them up and run them for another 30 years.
We've had good luck so far. I remember seeing caps fail years ago and do a lot of damage.
You still see them come apart from time to time. Usually take some underpinnings or these aftermarket fancy rear fender(s) with them too. I don't feel they will endure the heat buildup like a virgin casing, and this is the start of their downfall. I've watched the retreading process almost complete and prepping the casing, pressure, temperature, chemical composition of the vulcanizing adhesive, etc. are closely monitored. I've run them on road truck(s) myself, and have several in vocational service. We had three retreaders within a hundred miles of me and all followed Bandag's lead with the process. However Bandag guaranteed you would get your original casings back if desired and met criteria. Tire pressure maintenance is paramount to getting these to last and one of the most neglected things on an operating truck.
Air disc-the evil of the modern truck. * Most caps are {Ring Tread} only a little better. Mismatched-causes the worn one to cup out or wear the edge. But casings are so out of round on new tires-the only brands that have good casing new is Firestone/Bridgestone. Toyo 122, 154 and 177 are probably the worst for out of round in a new steer tire. More insides are ruined because of low PSI than any other reason. A tire needs to be laying flat not standing up when inflating to get even seating on rim. Almost two weeks ago now I was in the shop working on that Cummins and heard a load boom dust flying. U.S. Foods parks in the lot, tire shop made a service call replaced some tires on two of their trailers. He had no more than left the yard and a new DC Double Coin-zippered the side- wall.
A high school friend of mine was killed out on I-80 in Colfax by a failure like that. I believe he had changed an outside dual without removing the wheel, was airing it up when it let go and his head was right there. Don't know if new or used or patched.
I have a new pair of Firestone FS-560 tires for the steer axle on my R model Mack. 11R-24.5 size. The General tires on there now look good, but are aged and I don't want to take a hood off the truck with a tire explosion. The eight drives are six Kumho, and two General and I'll not vouch for the Kumho brand as they age. Good when new, but self exploding while setting is my experience with two on this truck. Never a flat with any of them until they explode. Going to start hauling grain within this next couple of weeks and will be fully loaded on all 10 tires. Heavy steel fenders cover the tandems and a tire explosion is pretty well contained. The road speed is seldom above 60mph in this application as the distance and roads traveled is not far to elevators with six miles being a long way.
Well I bought the set yesterday. It was 100 miles away in Pueblo, but I went for it. It was a set that came off a school bus. The bus was bought for the 7.3, and they also sold the tires, and scrapped the rest. Seems like a lot of effort for a 7.3, but I digress. He had em stacked against the wall, drives first, then steers, so you looked at the steers first. As I was looking at everything, I was checking size, beads, treads, etc. One of the steers was shagged, but everything else looked great. $500 for a set of drives and one decent steer is a good deal. So I paid the guy and loaded up and headed home. That’s when I realized I stopped checking sizes at the steers! The steers were 10r22.5, and that’s what I wanted. But the drives were metric. I can’t remember what the numbers were exactly, but the drives are just a tad smaller in OD. by a half inch. It’s really not a big deal, I was going to replace all drives anyway with the “new” ones, but I had hoped to keep one decent one as a spare. Of course, my worn down 10r22 might be the same OD now as a much newer metric. So maybe I’ll have a spare after all. New tire irons are on the way. Back breaking labor to commence tomorrow.
Those are a decent steer tire. Complacency kills, I attach the chuck and slide to the side, I don't trust even the best of brands.
Only takes one, doesn't matter the failure rate, given enough tires you will find it. It's best to take the change of it hitting you to 0.
What is this nonsense now?
Some kind of bot, reported already. But somehow different than what we usually see, maybe new/better AI?
It’s getting harder to tell. That’s disturbing.
They are starting to clone websites as well. I was on a site looking at sneakers. I signed up for e-mails and the whole works, but the prices seemed too good to be true. I did some checking and it turns out that they create fake sites that are exactly the same as the real thing, and scam you out of your money
10Rs not been popular for quite a while here, School buses been running 11Rs for over twenty years, MAY find a take off 10R as noted in a Concrete or Dump truck yard or tire supplier but are NOT popuar as 11Rs.
Tire dealer thought they would be a good fit. Tires on there now are a "mixed use" type and do well both off, and on highway use. Was hoping to find a new, or good used set of ball seat aluminum rims to mount these onto but haven't so far. Either Asian, or exorbitantly priced so probably will reuse my scarred up originals.
The Tire Doctor makes this look easy. I guess it might be once I get the hang of it. Whew.
This user made a couple posts on other threads that seemed pretty normal but this one was just out of place.
The Tire Doctor makes this look easy. I guess it might be once I get the hang of it. Whew. They are not too bad once you have the proper tools to work with them. They get difficult when the inner and outer nut freeze together and then you use a "Pork Chop" tool to hold the inner nut while you impact wrench, (and heat sometimes) to get them apart. Look closely at the wheels nut seating areas closely. If they have ever been run loose the wheel will be unable to seat up squarely with the nuts. They woller out quickly and the wheel is scrap. I have an old Mack out back, (parts donor) that the rear wheels are just as I describe. All ten inner nuts will not retain the wheel to the hub and will pull through. Truck was actually run like that with the outer wheels holding the inner wheels on the truck till taken out of service.
Somebody cared for this once. The threads all had anti-seize on em, and broke loose with about the same effort. LOTS of it, but all fairly even.