I have a TL230 Series 2 that will not crank. It was working fine and I parked it after working for the day 1/2 in my garage. I can back the next day and it would not crank. I originally had the blinking battery showing a charging system error. Since then I have checked that I am getting good connection on my battery and ground (that was pretty corroded but I fixed and now ok), my safety relay is operating (that has been addressed and now the battery light downs stay on/flash), and I have checked the bar safety interlock (it worked and lights up the QH when down and off when up. What else is left on the key switch to start?!? I was hearing a clicking at first but now nothing. Battery is strong, ac fan runs, so all good electrically that I know of. This was a pretty new starter (earlier this year) and I do have a replacement so unless someone else has a better idea that is where I am going next. Can someone else help me?!? Thanks! Josh
You need to jump from the starter solenoid positive post to the solenoid S- Terminal with a jumper wire. If it cranks over you have a control circuit problem. Maybe post a picture of the wires on your starter and we can help. How did you test the ground cable to prove that it will carry the current. Have you tested you positive cable to prove it is not compromised internally. Have you checked all the fuses in your fuse panel. Check these things first and tell us how you tested the above items. We are not there so just trying to rule out simple things before starting the parts cannon. Simon C
If you found corrosion at the battery, chances are you may have corrosion in the cables and or crimp lugs.
Thanks for the comments. I will try to jump the starter as described - makes sense that if i can get it to turn over by skipping the whole control chain then I know where to move next. I have checked all the fuses (or at least most of them and sll the most critical named ones) and I have 12V on both sides of the main power contactor (big circular relay looking thing above the battery) with the key on. I did find alot of corroosion at the battery and that is what I was thinking too - I do get 12 volts at alot of circuits (blower fan works great, no real change on the display voltage when I turn that fan on. I was thinking that I had the problem licked when I replaced and cleaned up the battery terminals but to no avail. The ground connection looked good on the chassis side and I did not mess with that, just the battery side. To both of your points I have NOT confirmed that there is not something internally wrong with the cables where they can only show voltage and not hold up under amperage (although I would think i would still hear it try to do sometihng) I will post back later tonight when I get a chance to try the starter - if I can jump it to force it to turn over then I believe it will confirm if the cables are ok. If I cannot get it to turn over then I know I need to start looking into the lugs/internal cable integrity/etc - right?!?
Yes try the solenoid jump start , and just for info sometimes small things will run but the heavy amperage of the starter is too much for a poor cable or bad connection. I have seen lead connections at batteries that have cables going into them with complete or partial disconnect internally too many times to remember. Try one thing at a time. Simon C
Ok so I thought I was golden but then I wasn’t. I went to jump the starter solenoid with the battery terminal and the solenoid connection was OFF!?!? No idea how that happen. That said I was elated and plugged it back in but no avail. After my disappointment wore off I reached in and was able to successfully turn over the motor with the key in the on position but I did NOT get it to fire, just crank. I do think that means my ground and battery cable fix is legit and the cables can carry the current. Right?!? I assume that means something in my control circuit is off and maybe also not powering my injectors?!? When I messed with the safety relay before I just took it out, put 12 volts on it and got it to operate so I put it back in. Maybe it’s still funky?!? I do not get the blinking battery and alarm sound so that may not mean it’s really fixed. Anyone have some thoughts? I think there are some other posts with parts of the electrical schematic on the forum and I will try to check them out but would love input.
I think I found a diagram. I have confirmed that my big 65amp fuse is good (sbf1) but neither of the contacts on my safety relay have 12v on them. I have confirmed that there is continuity with the key on so it seems like the 12v is not making it to the safety relay to then move on down the chain? That help anyone with ideas on where to go next?
A schematic would answer a lot as hard to imagine exactly the path the power is taking. Then eliminate one thing at a time. Simon C