As the title says, I need to figure out the proper torque spec for the bolt that holds the cylinder seal pack onto the end of the piston rod that goes inside the stabilizer cylinder bore. I’m racking my cylinders and one side was too easy to takeoff. The opposite side was ridiculously hard. I would like to make sure it’s done right this time as opposed to however whoever did it last. I’m supposed to put Loctite blue on the thread to that bolt correct?
Blue loctite, 1" impact, good air supply, hammer hard 6 or 10 times.
580B ??? 475 to 525. No locktite mentioned in the service manual.
I went thru the manual I got yesterday and found a “general torque specs chart” The bolt in the end of the stabilizer piston rod has a 1 1/2” head with 6 dash marks indicating grade 8. Does this chart apply to what I’m working on? 3160ft/lb sounds like quite a bit.. although after trying to get it out, it seems like that could be right. Idk, I just put a couple drops of blue locktite on the treads in the shaft, ran it in with my cordless 1/4” drive impact to hold it all together and then went and pinned it back on the tractor so I could torque it down with my 1 1/2” box end wrench with a 5-6ft long cheater bar over it. I’m hoping that holds up.
General torque specs are not applicable for a stabilizer cylinder or any of the other cylinders. Hydraulic cylinder bolts take a helluva beating compared to a bolt simply holding something together that doesn't move. Read line #12. If you torque it to 316 ft lbs--> its gonna get loose and maybe the piston will separate from the rod and destroy the cylinder.
The bolt head is for an 1 1/2" socket so I'd guess the bolt size is 1". Bolts are measured by the diameter of the shank not the wrench size.
gotcha! Thank you, I know I read that same page multiple times but I musta overlooked that key piece of information. Oh btw and that chart says 3160ftlb not 316ftlb. Glad I didn’t go by that
Thank you, I did not know this. I’m still learning and appreciate all tid bits anyone has to offer
Be extremely careful about chart torques and bolt diameters. As Welder Dave correctly noted, bolt size refers to the shank diameter - not the bolt head size. You will shear the bolt if you apply 3160 lb-ft of torque. You can typically use a tape measure to determine bolt size, but a better method is to use a micrometer to measure the diameter of the non-threaded portion of the bolt shank. Bolt head size is measured across the flats - as opposed to corner-to-corner. If your bolt head size is 1-1/2 inches, then the bolt diameter should be nominally 1 inch. The stabilizer cylinder has an inside diameter of 4.25 inches and an area of 14.2 square inches. Bypass pressure is 2500 psi. Therefore, maximum applied rod force should be 14.2 x 2500 = 35,500 lbs. A fully torqued (fully tensioned) 1-inch diameter Grade 8 bolt applies about 54,500 lbs clamp force if it has 8 threads per inch (1-8), and 61,100 lbs if it has 14 threads per inch (1-14). Full torque for a lubricated 1-8 Grade 8 bolt is 680 ft-lbs. Full torque for a lubricated 1-14 Grade 8 bolt is 760 ft-lbs. Note that a fully torqued bolt has risk of bolt failure - either in shear or in tension. Insofar as a minimum clamping force of 35,500 pounds is required, the safe clamping force should be about 10-percent higher - about 39,000 pounds. To achieve a clamping force of 39,000 lbs, lubricated 1-8 and 1-14 Grade 8 bolts should be torqued to about 485 ft-lbs. Use a drop of Loc-tite Blue to ensure the bolt does not loosen. Having stated the forgoing, I highly recommend that you consult your Case Service Manual to get the correct torque. It appears that Tinkerer posted the correct torque range.