I just put new chains on komatsu pc270lc-8 a month ago.But now I need to remove masterlink that I drove in with hammer.Iv'e tried drive pin with sledge hammer it moved 1/4" and stopped. I made jig to bolt to track and use 12ton bottel jack but it didn't move the jack is new and started to leak when I cranked on it. Pin was greaesd when I installed it too.Not sure if more tonage is needed .I cant find anyone with press in my area.Im at a stand still now.
Can you keep the pressure on it and cycle it around a lap, maybe that pin has a ridge?
Our pin press is 50 tons and some are still nasty. We can heat the bushing or freeze the pin to get them out here. Are they sealed pins and bushings? Or normal ?
Yes sealed and lubricated..
I cleaned pin before putting it in.
Likely there is a bruise on the end of the pin - making the pin tighter as it has entered the hole in the chain. You will have to hit the pin back out the other way. **TIP - When installing track pins, it is wise to install them from the inside of the track frame, then, should the pin be bruised during install it wont matter, as most people will remove them, by hitting from the outside of the track frame (more room to swing). They are always harder to remove than install.....
airman has done this before! LOL
Yeah on lube track we use track pin press...it looks like a ball joint remover with a pretty big cylinder on the end...was one of best money spent when you have tracks...
Our general rule was that if it does not move after you smack it three times then get the torch. 1 pin =$ 55.00 Labour rate for 1 hour $200.00
I did install it inside from inside of frame.Track is brand new didn't want to torch it. I have seen that 3 rod pusher but no one around here has one. I might have to call CN Wood service which is closes komatsu service also I have one more local heavy equipment service company I will
Yeah heat with sealed lube rails is bad....press is way better
Ok I will ask, if you just put it together, why do you need to get it apart again? LOL. good luck.
Is the track plate still fitted? If you have removed it & are trying to drive the pin with a hammer, the links may be trying to spread & that wont work for you. If you are using a press, then the track plate needs to be removed.
Good day attached may help. kind regards Uffex
The PDF that Uffex has supplied shows the reason that you can't just drive out a master pin without supporting the link on the opposite side. I've never driven the pins in from the inside of the track, mainly because there isn't swing room for a big hammer and my tendency to get wild and start hitting boom cylinders on the back stroke. I've alway figured master pins at one and done. I don't even try to save pins anymore. When it is time to take them out, I burn circles in the ends and knock them out with a four pound hammer and a punch. Below is a photo of a relieved pin.
When in doubt burn it out.
Seems obvious but can you try driving it out from the opposite side ?
The pdf posted shows a sledge being used to support the link. Seems like trying the support method is low cost (except for getting someone to hold the supporting sledge) and might get your desired result without heat. A few blows from the inside may also free up the links stuck from previous attempts.
Here’s a picture of the setup I used on a much smaller machine. On the jack I removed the jack screw and nut, and machined up a punch/ pusher pin out of 17-4 stainless. Cranked that 12 ton bottle jack up till I could not get the handle to move any more, then heated the link on the outside with a rosebud till things started popping, gave the jack another stroke and then started heating the inside of the link where the jack is. When that baby let loose I about had a heart attack, dirt flew everywhere, but the pin nearly shot completely out the other side.
This is what I use to drive out pins.
View attachment 191651 This is what I use to drive out pins.
I've also used something very similar to drive out tough pins. But I didn't weld the rod to a hammer. Doesn't hammer to hammer impact make risky business from flying shrapnel?
I still have a 20# sledge, still took heat to get master to move AT ALL on dry pin units. Will need MINIMUM 50 ton to get it moving and keep it moving, most shop mobile presses are 100T or Bigger.
Good day Whilst I appreciate the difficulty removal presents I would suggest that heating go the track link may be detrimental to the metal structure. Kind regards Uffex
Never heated past Hot, no glow or serious color, just enough to get some swell to the bore.
I put 4-5 layers of 7018 on the side opposite the pin to “soften” it up
Hitting a hammer with a hammer isn't a problem at all. Danger comes when hitting something extremely hard with a hammer. Bucket and ripper teeth come to mind. Hammers have enough softness to mushroom a little on a hard blow.
I have a chunk of metal in my gut that says your wrong.
So why do all new hammers come with a warning not to strike face with another hammer? Bob
Not all hammers have that statement. You will probably see that on new hammers. Look at it this way, what's the different between hitting a hammer on a hammer and hitting a chisel with a hammer? When I worked on the rail road for Weyerhaeuser we had a combination hammer with a chisel face on the opposite side and used it to cut the bolts off of tie plates. I would suggest if you have a hammer that will chip then you should buy better quality tools.
May be hammer faces are case hardened and chisels shanks are not. Bob
I have no idea why......but this struck me as DAM funny! Im still laughing!
X2, I know somebody who nearly lost an eye with fragment from hamer-hammer blows .
I do know that if you look at high end sledge hammers particularly ones for railroad work they have softer nonchipping faces and fully hardened ones
I was always taught it’s not the faces that break off n fly, but the mushroomed stuff on the edges. And it was beat into my brains as a kid to go grind the mushroomed parts off of both the splitting mall and the splitting wedge. I have never seen a chunk come off a face, but have seen the mushroomed pieces fly off - and then the old mans reprimand ringing in your ears as you are headed to the grinder!
You know I've never seen a tie plate bolted onto a tie. But your combo tool is not a hammer it's a chisel with a handle, like a backout punch. I've got more than one big American made hammer in my junk pile with chipped faces. Bob
Probably means the rail side link plates on segment rails.
Most railways have to use B grade steel hammers because they are safer. There's also soft face sledge hammers. http://www.wiltontools.com/us/en/s/sledge-hammers/ http://www.wiltontools.com/us/en/view-series/b-a-s-h-soft-face-sledge-hammers/SftFaceSldgHmr
By the tie plates I mean the plates used to join the rails together with. They are installed on each side of the rails and bolted through. I worked for Weyerhaeuser who bought all their hand tools at places like a Granger and Hardware Supply in those days. The tool was a hammer that looked almost like a short handled splitting maul. The difference was the cutting edge was straight and not curved. The issues was shown to be a myth and was broken on television for the world to see. http://www.discovery.com/tv-shows/m...-database/can-an-old-hammer-actually-explode/ Here is forum where other people talks about it and try to replicate it. https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/3171-shattering-hammers-on-mythbusters/ My take; hammers are designed to hit or be hit by other stuff. If you have a quality hammer, the idea that it would somehow explode or shatter just because it was used to strike something is absolutely ludicrous.
Chips can certainly fly off and that is dangerous.
Klein tools has a bunch of sizes of these. https://www.kleintools.com/catalog/wire-rope-punches/wire-rope-punch-1-14-inch https://www.kleintools.com/catalog/chisels-punches/wire-rope-punches
Did you read the comment "heat treated so it will not shatter"?
Well pin is out. I heated it with rosebud tip and welded 8" x1-1/8 pin to a 3' crowbar went and bought 20lb sledge hammer and rotated track until pin was close to ground.I took off a couple more track shoes to give us room and started hitting it and it started to move so we kept heating and in no time came out. Thanks for all the tips.
Nice to know you got it. Take that, pin!!
Around our place we call the 20 pounder Grandpa.
Like I said ;burn a hole through that ** and you can push it out with your finger!