the trans, roof on one of my trailers is starting to shed fiberglass threads. looking for info for a spray or roll on treatment to cure that prob
They sell quarts and gallons of fiberglass resin at the auto parts stores. That would probably do it.
Working in the freight industry for many years I've repaired a bunch of Chemlite roofs on trailers, not because of the fiberglass breaking down, but from meatheads putting the roll up doors or freight through the roof... Don't know that any ever had that bad a shedding issue, but if you get a hole in the roof there's a product called sunpatch that is a u-v cured patch that adheres and sets up as good as the original roof if the surface is clean and installed correctly...
That would likely work if I could get it thinned enough to spray . that becomes a risky project and gets expensive to if it sets up to quickly.432 sq.ft to cover
You can't just roll it on ? You don't have to put hardener to the whole batch at once but it will require warm weather and some resins are air inhibited so that might be a problem.
however it gets done warm temps are a must. I may try rolling a quart on and see how it comes out. have also given some thought to an epoxy clear coat
am familar with sunpatch
I wonder what could be done with a trailer thats roof had already come apart even if you just wanted it for storage?
I personally would put in aluminum or steel trusses that would fasten to the side walls to prevent them from pushing outwards from the weight then put metal roof on it.
I’ve used aluminum roof coating for small areas
I use fiberglass rosin and hardener. Never did that Pictures? on a trailer roof for deterioration but repaired a lot of holes. Had a building that was built in the 70's and had the same stringing strands on the sky light panels. Thank we put an aluminum bright mixture in a hand pump up sprayer. Sprayed and presser washed them. Let them dry and reglass or gel coated them. They held up well and light transfer was much better.
I usually did smaller areas. Used a pop can with the top cut off and counted drops. Can 3/4 full and 75 drops maybe. Less when hotter and more when cooler. Mix it with a paint stick and work it toward you with a brush. Color can be a good indicator but changes with brands and time of year. There are marks on the hardener tubes for larger jobs. Start slow and do larger amounts as you have your harder worked out. You can use acetone to slow it down if needed and make your brush last longer. Plan your work, have a mixer and an applicator. Have extra brushes containers and such. Anti freeze jugs cut in half work well. Lay them out as refills along the way and go at it. Jumping on that much at time I would want a runner on hand. Put a torpedo heater inside and close the the door. If you do not have enough hardener in the mix it will never cure ( kick, go off what ever you call it ) even if you paint hardener on top later. Get your hardener worked out and go like hell. Probably will not take as much product as you thank.