Picked up a International S1954 for pennies on the dollar at $750, 294k miles on odometer engine purrs transmission is shot. Third gear shift fork is broke off doubt I can find another one though reference to parts would be helpful. Any who question is what would be a good transmission to replace this one. There is no air brakes on the truck and it has split rear end., could I put a 10 speed and have 20 gears or is that insane?
Seriously, if the trans is original, you can get the part number from navistar. With year make model and last 8 of the vin, they can tell you every part it was born with. I would fix the trans you have. That said I think you can squeeze a Spicer 6+1 in that place. S-series were day cab mid range delivery trucks. Usually powered by a DT 466. Unless you're an ol'timer or know one with a lot of patience,willing to teach you. I would leave that diff in high. I don't think you'll be successful swapping in a 10 speed. That needs air to split high/low. And finding one with the dinky bell housing is gonna be a whole other challenge. Good luck
Yeah that's why I included the detail on it doesn't have air brakes cause it would need that for the transmission splitting. Plan on ditching the beverage truck part and bobbing it off right behind the axle and making it into a hauler for my tractor, 5th wheel and such toys. Just wanted to try to shove many as gears in for when I drive through the mountains be nice to have those optional gears. Guess I forgot to mention it is powered by the DT466, that bit of information does help. I was afraid of and reason I wanted to switch transmission out is it was the P/O the transmission went out on and I have no idea how far they drove it like that though I can hear/feel it in first gear moving around. Where could I get the parts if they didn't damage the transmission such as a website? Seems 3rd gear is notorious for going out found more of them than any other gear for sale on Ebay and looks of it the shifting fork controls second gear too so it can't be shifting fork broke unless I missed something?
Alright the transmission is a CM 5552-D and it's toast. Was driving it home from where I bought it and started off with small thumps and go so bad had to down shift and drive in 1st the 5 miles I needed to get it home. Felt like the shaft snapped inside and was thumping around. People on sidewalk were looking at me funny too Anywhere I can find online the nomenclatures on thee so I can find the closes one to replace it. Seen this one on Ebay looked like it might work https://www.ebay.com/itm/Spicer-CM6...LET-C50-C60-C70-TOPKICK-TOP-KICK/322448085639 looks to me from the first two numbers annotate the torque x10 it can handle, correct?
a 6 spd fuller out of a top kick etc. no air required will fit with very little changing have you looked underneath at the frame yet you mentioned beverage body?
Yeah I have looked it has trans brake on the back of the transmission plus that's where I got the transmission model from. Going to make a nice flatbed with easy access. This is my first time to really need to interchange a transmission so this is new to me on what will and won't work but I can sure rebuild one given the right specs. on tolerances and such.
my ref to the frame was because all the bev. trucks i`ve seen have had the frames cut and lowered just at the back of the cab , makes a tricky job out of shortening them up
Seems it's going to be fun trying to find replacement due to the transmission brake being back there as I don't see many with them. Found a exact model number yet doesn't have trans brake. https://www.ebay.com/itm/CM-5552-D-...Good-working-order-Miles-189-370/123243014592
Oh I was talking about chopping it off right after the axle spring hanger on the end which would give me a 17' flatbed, I can live with that. Seems as if there is two frames from front of truck to back of cab which then is welded or bolted to a frame underneath it that goes from front of the cab to the back of the truck and they stacked another frame on top to bolt the axle onto just enough length for the leaf springs..
Should not be a big deal to put your trans brake on it.
Thanks, I went ahead and submitted them a best offer. Lets see if $500 would work.
Seems everyone wants $800 plus shipping, am I looking in wrong place or is this going price?
I once bought an IH 1800 Cargostar COE with a MV 404 and an Allison 643 trans. I wanted the trans for another project and sold the 404 for enough to pay for the entire truck. But it was a beverage truck and the body was the frame from the cab to the rear suspension subframe. Two components paid for it but I doubt I would buy another.
As they say about a COE, you are the first one on the scene of a accident when you get into one with someone. What did you use the 643 for?
I have a transmission out of an International with a Dt466. It's been in my shop taking up space for years. I can check the model if you are interested. I'm in Springfield Oregon.
Yes I would be thanks.
Tag says CM 5252-A
Don't know what the differences would be between the two would be. It does not have the rear mount parking brake. If you find they are compatible could possibly meet you half way.
How much are you asking for it? Got a picture of it?
I would like $250.00 but always open to offers. When I get back to the shop tonight i'll get a picture.
Let me know if you want more pictures
Sounds like a good deal and looks as if it might actually work. Think it would be a good idea to pull my transmission brake to bring with me when we get around to meeting to make sure it bolts up. Other than the gear ratios are different I don't see why it wouldn't bolt up.
Called up Tremec since Spicer sold off the information on these transmissions and they need the B/M number on the tag so I need a picture of the tag or the B/M number that starts off with 301.
301081-15
Have to wait till Monday to find out cause they closed 30 minutes ago. Though I will try to figure it out between the two books of information I got.
Alright I found trove of information in PDF format and your transmission won't work in mine. Your spline dimensions are as followed 13 3/16" x 1 3/4" -10 x 1. 1800" 24 teeth and mine is same except for mine has diameter of .9837". Also the first two numbers of the CM5252 stand for 520 lbs of torque rating the third number is the number of gears and the last number is the gear ratios internally. The CM6XXX series is a different case in itself Found a few CM58XX series but they have push clutches, couldn't I take my bell housing off and bolt it on them?
Well we tried. I do have another transmission out of my service truck, it was behind a 6bt cummins.
Six speed with 620 ft lbs. torque rated two of the pictures didn't show up just the ID plate. Going to take me a day to figure out if I can fit it depends on specs of the input shaft bell housing SAE and so forth. Going to be fun trying to figure out where to find a transmission brake for it or if mine would work. Though looks as if it can go behind a DT466E it's possible. HeavyEquipmentForums
I've had trouble loading some pictures lately. They appear then get x-ed out. If the six speed will work for you that would be great. It's the same price. Replaced the engine and trans at the same time with another cummins with allison. Cummins had issues and they are still together in the back of the shop.
Well I need to know exactly with micrometer of the pilot hole it can go in which needs to be .9837 and the input spline needs to be a 1 3/4" diameter, that's what I am trying to find out online. Trying to not open another can of worms on projects as I am renting this place already got two F450's apart trying to get out of here along with trying to move out of state to a property I own by next spring with other projects lined up. Also need to know if it's a push or pull clutch and if my clutch would work with it along with slave cylinder. Variables variables and more variables. Maybe I'm thinking to far into this...
Everything will fit except one problem is the transmission brake. The length of that transmission without the brake is 25 inches as mine is 32 inches with the brake so about 7 inches has to be accounted for somehow someway. From looks of it Eaton Fuller never put a transmission brake on tail end of their transmissions only on the side which are air controlled and those are friction brakes. Looks like this truck is stuck with only two transmissions in the world that will work on it of the millions out there due to having hydraulic brakes and no air system onboard. Calling around asking about transmissions for 6 hours so far and everyone is reluctant to give you basic information on what the B/M number is, haven't pulled the transmission yet, don't know what the price is they want but yet it's posted for sale or have to ask someone else will call you back but never do. About ready to sell this damn thing before I even get to drive it.
I forgot I have a driveshaft shop up the road they quoted me $407 to lengthen the driveshaft so I will take the F6206A off your hands. Got a shifter stick in it?
Finally opened up can of worms and pulled the transmission. Got to say trying to do this outside in the dirt on piece of plywood under a low profile framed truck is every bit of a workout. Don't even have enough room to fart under there, in fact I suggest farting before trying to get underneath to fit better.
don`t strain to hard
Actually that might help too, just be sure to change before going under there. Just do one those toxins diet flushes and then go for it.
Anyone know of way to put a parking brake on back of this FS6206A transmission or any other universal fit parking brake? No air brakes on this truck just the hydraulic ones.
If you're making drivelines anyways, could you just make a pinion mounted park brake work? Google search "pinion mounted truck park brake" and several different pictures show up. you might have to fabricate some mount brackets off the trans or rear end.
Guess I better get my A game on my fabrication skills out for this. Precision is key as to not rub while it rotates and isn't out of round it has to be perfect. I see the concept but I don't see any results on medium duty trucks, I might have went the wrong direction cause now I am seeing midget porn.
I used to haul a lot of fork lifts around, and the ones they used in lumber yards had something on them we called a micro-lock, press on the pedal and flip the switch and the hydraulic brakes would stay on as a parking brake. Here is their website. https://www.mico.com/products/brake-actuation/brake-locks Read it thru and it may have something you could use. George
A mico lock would just lock the hydraulic brakes, which could then bleed off at the wheel cylinders, or if there's the slightest line seep (which is extremely possible on a old truck) and then the truck rolls away. They are great for a "temporary" brake, but a driveline lock with a cable won't bleed off like a mico will. I actually installed a mico on a dodge 1 ton 6 speed as a replacement for the parking brake (which doesn't work well even after replacing everything), but we only use it for hooking up trailer, locking the gate etc. If you're parking for all day it gets left in gear.
Thanks very much for the first hand experience you share with this as now I know to not make fatal mistake and use it as permanent brake. I was also thinking along the lines of the ones those people who race use to launch the car with something similar. They don't list my truck on their brochure on what I need but they are close which means this is good for my intended purpose. This seems to be way better than the pinion brake idea, though the suggestion is appreciated.
Line lock we called them. May have to buy and or make your own lines. You know making your own lines is illegal?
In some states but at same time main thing is flare unions fittings will pass inspection, compression fittings will not.
Worked on a Chevy tandem once that had brake issues, the frame had been stretched and somebody had used compression fittings to splice the brake line to the tandems. When the brakes were used hard the fittings seeped fluid, Luckily they didn't blow apart. Double flare kit to the rescue.
Well while we are on the subject of brakes and being mine are hydraulic not air brakes wouldn't you want to run with highest boiling point brake fluid without going to silicone? Thinking if this truck is going to be pulling or just for it's sure shear size and I live in the mountains shouldn't I flush it all out when I install the line lock and put some of this in? Unlike most medium duty trucks I have disc brakes in the rear. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all78116
Look to the reservoir, some plastics and rubber compounds are sensitive to fluid type changes, should be a type denoted either cast in the reservoir or one of the fill caps, stick to it. Have been around Line Locks, trust them only as far as can see them and most are buried under the cab if that is a clue.
Yeah if I can't see the truck I'm not trusting it,if I am parking it I am not trusting it, and when I do use it I think I will keep the door open for emergency to jump in it. Got the Eaton FS6206A installed fits like a glove so if anyone else with International with DT466 same year range as my 86 with Spicer CM5552-D want to toss the Spicer there is hope for you out there. The transmission was 3/4 inch shorter than original even with the original transmission having a transmission brake and the Eaton one didn't. Just had to get a hybrid U joint, looks like I need to flip couple carriage bearing brakets around and it will work. The shifter hole so far looks as if it might need to be moved forward couple inches but nothing some welding and cutting can't fix. Now I need to find seats for this damn thing, might just buy the pedestals and put a regular automotive seats in hmm...
If not mistaken that series Eaton could come with a drive line brake, may be worth looking into for a future add on. If interest look for mid 90's GM Kodiak chassis.
Oh I been looking for couple days and never found one as that was my first instinct to do when this problem came up. For right now trying to find a 1710 to 1610 half round U joint, wonder if they make one.
Probably have to either change the output yoke on the trans, or have your driveline remade. I'd just have the driveline cut and a new end put on it, so its just a standard u-joint, it will be easier to deal with in the long run.
Since the driveshaft is a 1610 full round and the transmission is a 1710 half round I'm going with a different yoke on end of the transmission, it's cheaper and I found one in stock. That way I have 1610 all the way through and since I am not pulling substantial amount of weight I shouldn't break them if I do then I will upgrade to beefier drive line.
Got the 1610 system in which in return created needing more driveshaft that I pulled from the slip joint. Thought I could just flip the two brackets around for the carrier bearings being moved forward couple inches but apparently who ever built this truck was drunk or I am missing something. They aren't uniformly drilled right on the carrier bearing brackets that bolt to the cross members, they are both quarter inch lower on one side up and down and about quarter inch or more off to the side left and right. Would say someone else put these in but the dimples in the angle part for strength.says this is factory built.
Most straight trucks come in LONG chassis lengths then are 'Adjusted' by body installers, possibly took a Deep drop bracket and cut it off years ago then re-drilled to fit, although the tech was not in such good shape that day!! Time to reposition the boltings.
I could of done better drunk than this person did if this is the case. There is damage if you can see above that carrier bearing like the drive line snapped and or something and bent the 3/16 steel to the bed pretty well sheared it. I didn't know for sure if someone did it on purpose or screwed up and from sounds of what your saying they screwed up. Just wondered how they managed to keep carrier bearings in this thing and I believe it's what might contributed to ending the last transmission I took out.
Would not have helped much.
Square it all up, bore new bolt holes PROPERLY and should be good to go Long Time!!
That's what I'm doing though this rain is not making it easy, damn I need a large garage. Anyone recommend a good roadside service for these truck like AAA, I like having a piece of mind when doing a road trip.
A mis-drilled hole is not going to take out a carrier bearing or your transmission. All the carrier bearing does is hang the driveline in a convenient spot. Now... if its in the wrong place forward or back, that can be an issue. Also, remember the carrier should not place the driveline in a perfect straight line, it should be up or down 2-3" of straight. Otherwise the U-joint bearings will wear the needles into the cross journals due to lack of movement.
Saw a lot of the poorly constrained shops do the driveline work where you are correct but a mistimed shaft or two did cross my path over the years on new installs. Could be past damage just catching up, could have been just bad operation of a past driver.
Quite a few operators over the past 30 years as beverage truck. Upon further inspection there is evidence of the brackets been replaced for some reason due to amount of holes in the cross members. I don't really care as I will fix it just making note of it. Though hearing from multiple people helps to know I can't screw it up worse than they did. So question remains does anyone know of any roadside assistance like AAA for these rigs and had good luck with them, or am I better off with carrying my own tools, spare wheel mounted and doing it myself?
Guess that question in last post isn't getting a reply though... Got the truck buttoned up with fabricated brackets for the carrier bearings ran the truck I don't hear feel or see any vibrations so who knows. On to putting air seats in, tossed the bench seat and so far got one mounted in. Guess pictures would be nice here. Took my cutting wheel to the stick shift that came with new transmission (my apologies lg junior) and shortened it, going give it a twist pictures will show.
Air ride seats put in out went the infamous bench seat. Also the customization of the stick shift to fit the new seats from new transmission I put in.
I was watching a YouTube video on 2019 Dodge Ram trucks claiming 1000 ft lbs torque and can tow 35,000 lbs. You telling me a regular pickup truck will outdo my International S1900 with DT466 towing same weight up a mountain, I see that possible, but could it stop it as well too. Guess I should ditch the DT466 sometime down the road and slap some 350 plus HP Cummins in there with 1000 plus ft lbs of torque down the road. I just don't see a Class 3 truck out performing a Class 7 truck.
they will do what they say question is how many times will they do it
That is one good selling point on why to keep current set up, thanks. My main thing I was worried about is stopping power, trailer brakes go on that 20k lb 5th wheel and it's going to make you it's bitch taking you down with it or that dozer someone has on a flatbed.
Have pretty well decided when the Old 99 Ford 7.3 gives it up I am going Class 7, be that last machine I will have to work with. Wife and I discussed it, we get to a stage where the farm gets too much are buying a USED Toy hauler, slip the Ride inside and sell the farm move to MUCH smaller housing just for a Mailbox address and Hit The Road!! Snowbird it. Class 3 was fine for a time but have to admit Class 7 has Miles on rubber, Miles on drive train and durability just in general that cannot be beat.
That's funny cause I too ditched my 7.3 for my Class 7 and mine was Class 4 F Superduty from 1996 and still wouldn't have trusted it over Class 7. Me and the girl are hitting the road too, start off small with cabover and eventually finish building the 5th wheel to hitch up to it. Guess overall safety of Class 7 the durability outweigh the Class 3 to 5 trucks by long shot.
Did a oil change on my DT466 today part of getting ready for it set sail and came across something interesting while looking for oil filters. On all websites they list two different oil filter numbers that go on this engine and I ordered just that one larger than other one, did I need to do that or would it matter if I used two of the same like the previous owner did? Put the larger one on the oil pump filter bracket and smaller one on the pickup tube bracket for turbo.
I was thinking one style is a full flow while the other style was a Bypass flow, cannot see it hurting. Not certain placement will make much difference. Correction BOTH in my Baldwin catalog are Full flow, should No difference except capacity. Baldwin B299 and B309.
Took a look and one has anti drain back valve and other one isn't is the difference I see besides diameter. Also noticed it when filling them up with oil too.
I'm at my wits end with trying to find front end brake rotors for this truck... Tried all the box stores Autozone, Napa, Oreilly and etc even the small chains Baxters, A1 auto and etc tried online websites truckid.com rock auto and etc all come up with nothing. Ran the VIN number through truckid.com and came up with https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ceb-120-83007/overview/year/1986/make/international/model/s1954 .076" bolt hole size. 1986 International S1954 DT466 disc brakes front and back 10 bolt lugs at approximately 1" bolt stud size looking for the front, 11.25" diameter stud to stud with Budd 105312 hub. Lastly will try International stealership as I don't even think they have right specs for this truck.
A great deal of those type parts are Manufacturer specific. May want to try HD Truck parts suppliers as they would have access to HD Bendix and other brake manufacturer equipment numbers. Try these guys too https://www.truckspring.com/brake-parts/brake-rotors.aspx?make=International&year=1986&model=S1954 Or here https://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/brake-rotors-c-8276
Neither one of those worked as I found more numbers to throw in the mix which only seems one person has access to. Gunite D6071 is the part number and so far been told only can go through "stealership" to get the part.
Kind of figured Manufacturer specific.
Wonder how many miles I can get out the new ones "when they get here". Seems the brake caliper stuck and they drove it till there was nothing of the pad left with gouges in the rotor. Do one might as well do the other...
Would do them in pairs(FR or RR), calipers and rotors, had better luck doing it that way.
So you are saying I should do the calipers too or could I unstick the stuck one? Yes I will be doing them in pairs it's like when doing king pins which make me cringe typing.
If change one caliper change both, just normal corrosion development will alter speed on the older one where the new one will apply faster. Would notice it more on steer than drive unless off pavement. Changing rotors, he, not so much a necessity but keeps wear patterns similar where you do not miss the faster eroding side before it fails.
One is for trucks like yours. Opening on the filter is on top. These engines were used on many different applications as in construction and Ag. Some have the filter opening on the bottom when installed with space limitations on some.
Replace both calipers and the rubber brake hoses. Bad hoses can hold pressure on the caliper.
I had a FL something back in the early 2000s doing something similar. Non-pistons side pad ground into rotor. Replaced rotor, replaced caliper. Inspected a while later and the same pad had abnormal wear again. No other symptoms. Replaced the whole "spider" that held the caliper. Nothing I could see wrong with any of it but the symptoms were there. After replacing the spider, no further trouble.
We used to rebuild them but with trucks the age of yours that usually does not work out for me. However you do it do the whole axle. Use nothing questionable.
If you had to replace the whole spider sounds like something got hit somewhere in the past. I don't see how that would affect things then again your rig is different than mine as it would be impossible to affect this truck in that form unless as stated.
I got new calipers on the way too, so far $981 for new rotors (stealership ordered), new calipers, new oil seals, new brake pads and new brake caliper housing bolts. New hoses hmmm they could swell shut over time, going to look for those now too. Might as well put DOT 5.1 in the system
I put the anti drain back one on with the other one. Think I'm going to name this truck Frankenstein. Eaton 6 speed transmission in it, air seats in it, hubs and brakes from nothing that matches with the VIN, new clutch, extended drive shaft and turned the fuel up done by me so far.
Hope you like that new trans, I too have a 1985 S1900, DT466, SPICER 5SPD./2SPD Rear,Air brakes. I like the old truck, but not the Spicer trans, you got me to thinking about a reasonable swap! My truck has a dump bed on it; maybe a better shifting trans would help with the loads.
Don't know if my clutch isn't adjusted right or not on mine, but I do know it has problem down shifting I have to rev match and it's a full synchro transmission hence the FS6206A. So it's not needing a double shift. Reason I say about the clutch possibly being out of adjustment is sometimes it has hard time at idle going into 1st or 2nd and sometimes not. Once taking off from either 1st or 2nd it's no problem once I get it in gear and when you are sitting at red light with it out of gear you got to fight to put in either or when it the light hits green it can get interesting. I don't want to wear the throwout bearing out with clutch pushed in whole time.
Double Disc? Something else may be wrong if has good free travel. No reason if a single plate clutch to drag, double disc the center plates can tend to hang.
It's a double disc, brand new too. Was looking at the book last night I just got CTS-4219 and it shows there needs to be 1/8 space between the pawl and the throwout bearing with pedal all the way up so I will check that. All of the linkage was taken loose when I put the "new" transmission in and I had to fabricate the linkage to transmission with old linkage.
Took drivers side hub off to get brake rotor off and well the outer race is spinning freely on the hub, no play to it but spins freely. Does this mean I have to replace the entire hub assembly or getting new race/cone is enough till I replace the hub?
New hub required.
We can tell you how to patch it but that is just not proper on the steer. The life you save maybe your own.
Little bit of JB weld smeared around the race on external sides wipe off excess install and wait 24 hrs before assembling hub back on. Try to make this last about 2 months, not hauling anything but truck camper I live in, damn front brakes have drained finances. Need about 5000 or less miles before I can change it out. Seen a Twin Disc marine transmission repaired with hole in transmission on a pressure channel with JB weld, I refused to do it had the owner do it and I took the day off.
Staking the hub bore lightly and adding bearing retention compound from Loctite will work once, comes out loose next time replace the hub.
That's what the mechanic did for the company owner who last owned this truck, I can see remnants of it in the pits in the area of where it went. Just not easy finding this hub only found one in Colorado for $250, Budd 105312. Would love to park it and not use the truck till fix, but in middle of living in it and my property is 1200 miles away.
Stake it again, reset the compound but order up the new hub, usually do not last as long second try around.
I have a farm tractor that had a hub like that but 4 times worse. New one was four days out and crop in the field. Staked the hub fairly hard. Cut some notches on the outside of the race. Installed it with JB weld overnight and got the crop up the next day. Intended to replace it but it is still running 15+ years later. Top speed is about 20 MPH and it is usually in a field.
Thought about staking it with mig welding dots around the outside of the race, then grind them down till little is left then press it in with JB weld and wait 24 hrs to assemble it back on the truck.
Would weld the bore not the race Do not want to temp bearing failure right off
I thank that is a really bad idea. I cut some notches in the outside of the race because I thought it might help to prevent it spinning.
After $1500 in new brakes and everything connected to it, got the bearing race staked in it's doing great. Now next problem after I spent all that money, 650 miles later the front axle beam got bent by going over a bridge on the highway that was lower in grade than the highway on Hwy 12. So question now, is it time to toss the axle or is it salvageable. Bent it back 2 to 4 inches towards the cab, was doing about 55 mph when I hit it. I know it's only time before it starts eating the front tire.
A good truck alignment shop should be to fix that on the bending rack, but it's probably only a matter of time before it happens again. 7,000 Lb axle? They weren't very sturdy. I see a lot of them that were used on lift axles because they were light and readily available from wrecked out school busses. Not sure but I think the DOT frowns on them now as lift axles.
spring center bolt sheared ?
Nope I can see the actual beam bent between the spring and the king pin.
must have been one hell of an offset
Yeah you should of felt it, I thought we bent the rim on impact. Couldn't tell if it was offset or hole, as with white concrete its hard to see on bright day. On Highway 12 right before Colfax WA heading eastbound. Found one on Vanderhaags for $500, wonder what shipping would be... Have a staked hub race needs replacing too sometime and this would solve two problems.
Does that Vanderhaags axle come with hubs kingpins and such? If it bent back hard enough that quick I would be worried of cracking developing, have a serious look at that area it bent that bent back on the Backside.
Yes it does come with everything listed and matches my truck from axle ID number to Budd hub types. Have to clean the area up to look past the paint though I don't see one as is. Thinking about filing a claim against the state on this one to recover damages. Was hard enough to bust the tie downs on my camper on the back too.
Got the axle straightened out and now on to next part. Got a line lock for the truck https://www.ebay.com/itm/MICO-Lever-Lock-PN-02-640-125-for-Brake-Fluid-Vehicles/163698688202?epid=1723001271&hash=item261d33c0ca:g:gfEAAOSwbYZXdU7k Wondering should I lock the front or rear axle? Next I got a speedometer with GPS unit from Autometer to replace the mechanical speedometer that doesn't work with the FS6206A and I sure wasn't going to try and put another vehicles instrument cluster in the truck. Any tips on putting the line lock in will be greatly appreciated.
Lock REAR.
I was thinking same thing, just didn't want to shell out another $1500 for brakes on rear of the truck for driving part of my CDL. No trucks around here to rent for the CDL test and this is getting to be PITA.
Do NOT go to the DOT for a license test with a machine using a Line Lock for a parking brake. That by itself will fail you right off at least in MO.
It's all I have as there is no other parking brake available in this truck or for this truck. Running hydraulic brakes and only place for which there isn't one made for this transmission is on the transmission. Unless you know or someone else knows where there is one for a Eaton Fuller FS6206A.
Seems no one in Montana has a answer in all the districts and one of them I called up didn't have a clue what it is and the examiner for my test is on vacation till the day of the test.
All I can say is it does not qualify as a 'Parking' brake, you can line lock to short term park but they are not designed for that.
That part I do know and will be used such as if I'm backing up and need to jump out for few minutes but don't want to turn the truck off to hold it still. If I had or could find a driveline mechanical brake I would put it on. Not trying to beat the system or just get by it's just there isn't any options I know of besides a short term brake.
May want to borrow a machine to test in, be safer bet.
Would love to, but no rentals within 300 miles or further, figure size of Billings MT there would be one, nope. Any rentals only cater to large trucking companies. On another note due to dual proportioning valve on this rig it will lock all 4 wheels up when it's installed. When all hope is lost, on a deadline, out of funds and stressed out from trying so hard to do something and everything is going against you, you sometimes just hit the level of "fuq it" and I have. Now somehow with few ratchet straps a couple home built saw horses I need to take the camper off this truck by myself.
Perfect example of hitting "fuq it" happened today, while installing line lock, was hand screwing pre made brake line in to brake proportioning valve I went to take my hands off it to take measurement instead it fell to ground. The brass proportioning valve just cracked where the brake line fitting went in and it appears long in the works of giving away. For every dark moment there is light and that is if that gave way while driving it would of been a bad day. Supposed to take my CDL driving test next Monday coming up well not now. Can't find the part in town nor online so I need to call International tomorrow and try to find this part. If you look at pictures on the piece broken you can see the green from corrosion as it was cracked long time ago just waiting for right moment to give.
any truck scrap yards near you?
Yep they only cater to class 8 trucks anyone else aren't worth their time. Look up Miles City MT and then take and draw a line of 35 miles then make a circle and that's where I live somewhere there hehe, Billings only cater to Class 8's as they have personally told me
ever heard of red power mag.?
Nope though I just searched them and they seem to of a magazine place.
Old ditty on IHC Too Fast for the Field, too Slow for the Road, GO International. If it won't Run Paint it Red, If Still won't Chrome It, GO International!! Always think of the Red MV404s/446s with the Chrome valve covers when say or hear this. And then there came the DV550!!
Called up International and they no longer make the part nor have any part replacement numbers... So what I do, just bypass it till I find one in scrap yard¿
What is the purpose of that contraption? Not completely clear to me. Is it just the normal balanced shuttle piston with the detent to turn on the warning light if you lose front or rear? Or is there more to it than that? Seems like there should be an aftermarket replacement available or substitute something. Maybe from a more modern IH or FL with a similar braking system.
If you lose pressure in one of the two lines it will shut that one down to be able to still have brakes to stop the rig till fixed. Looked up the 4300’s and on and no replacement there either, looking up universal ones and it’s a dead end as I type.
One more reason to hate juice brakes I guess.
You should of seen the joys of fun I had finding the rotors to this truck, don’t get me started on hubs, that’s obsolete too.
Found the end of the road, if you have this part go bad you are SOL unless you either A find one in scrap yard B try and put a universal one on or C bypass it and hang on. International part number 591315-C91 is no longer distributed by International and hasn't for some time and the other number on the brake proportioning block is Dana Weatherhead DIV number of 131-80366 was only made for International, so after International stop asking for them they stopped making them as they told me, there is no replacement part numbers.
Have you ran a google search on the old p/n? Just type it in nothing else ans see what pops up? Found a NOS final seal for my Allis that had been discontinued 1988 and no one showed one Google search and had it
Yep tried just numbers, with and without hyphens or dashes all three on the block, it's how I found out Eaton made it and the division of Eaton that made it.
There has to be some more current part with the same function in existence but maybe the mounting and/or tapped fluid holes are different, the trouble would be finding it, and making it fit, but anything is possible with enough money and time. Start with Summit Racing, I have found several things on there.
With all the juice brake systems out there has to be a common mechanism. Look to Ford or anyone else, if have to change the lines and tube nuts.
Gonna have to get imaginative on this, Look thru these: https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/631...dFWaglS7v8o-1dJJEnhoC5sAQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Looks like what I went through on Summit racing. Noticed all these have different inlet outlet sizes as mine is one size. Would go to Napa to find something they looked at me funny when I asked about braided brake lines and preformed ones, Oreilly's are clueless. Looked for the 4300 ones and they are not available either. Seems the international pickup trucks used them at one time as they replaced the 373648C 91 with the 591315 C91. Still digging...
Seems the next line up of trucks after the S series International went to ABS which is why the part is so obsolete. When you live 35 miles from society down a rock road, not easy thing to just drive to nearest automotive store and grab parts.
Almost no preformed lines except wheel to frame anymore, couple of specialty houses are making older machine replacement parts pickups and car but you would have to form and flare your own on this. Went thru that with my 85 GMC, replaced ALL the frame tubes as rotted away right at cab to bed line and around front crossmember. Next Machine should there be one here will NOT have Juice Brakes as far as ton and half or bigger. No longer like playing that game.
Honestly I'm ready to put this one through the scrapper just salvage the seats, transmission, engine and wheels. With only a camper a car in tow and few tools on board the brakes being brand new in front and the truck in lowest gear possible had hard time going down Hwy 95 into Lewiston ID from Washington state over that ridge. Rather not pull anything with this rig more than what I just listed in the mountains, need air brakes badly.
S Series IH 1900 or Bigger, Air Brakes, air split trans ability to add air driven accessories, ability to park it and KNOW it will stay, very basic air system and easily maintained after add a decent drier. Business Class Freightliner is good as well $$$ Wise.
Actually that's what this rig is a S1954. I typed in something and I think I found the mother load, wonder if they will let me loose to pull parts I need...Pull hydraulic brake system off a 4000 series while there and retro fit it onto here, I think it can be done. (Yells across the yard, HUN WE GOING ON ROAD TRIP PACK THE CAMPER!!!!) .. https://candhtruck.com/trucks/used-...k-parts/38/international?p=1&sort=year-oldest
r red power mag also has a forum much like this one lots of ih truck talk on the forum maybe get on and let them know what you`re looking for
Don't let Miller see all those R-190's... He'll go nuts.
Just get one of the aftermarket proportioning valves like dmiller posted the links to - summit, jegs, whatever. If it doesn't have the same size fittings as you need for yours, you're going to have to make adaptors, either with lines or fittings.
He can have the R-190's I will take this one. https://candhtruck.com/trucks/5913
If I can't find one at the last place I posted then I will do just that. Even that is hard due to needs to be disc/disc and 4 ports with warning light switch installed plus adjustable for this rig. I'm still looking...
You can just do a brake light switch on the pedal, you don't have to have it on the valve. If you want it on the valve, here's one two in three out for ports, adjustable, - it even has a brake switch light it looks like. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MI1NGDsvKr4wIVDNvACh2kVwAJEAQYBSABEgKsLfD_BwE
I never get any parts for my older equipment from the dealer, they don't have anything. You just have to find something that will do what you need to do, and plumb it to fit. The dealer is usually a waste of time and $ for anything over 10years old.
That one has two lines coming in, 1 front, 1 rear, splitting to 2 front and 1 rear. Just cap the extra front one, yours evidently splits further down the line.
As much as I agree with that one there has been a point of unless you were dealership you weren't getting these parts. Couple brake rotors from Gunite who the only manufacturer of the Budd hubs I have was only distributing them to International dealership, that was a fight back in April.
Actually I will need all 4 ports, it's splits on the brake proportioning valve, two lines coming from master cylinder to two going in and two coming out. That Wilwood one looks great. Starting to look like a maze with brake lines running everywhere adding in a line lock.
Hey Spud, something to think on, Old day cab single axle tractors(Air Brakes) are generally a dime a dozen ESPECIALLY the older units. I would be on a search mission for one of those as a Buildable after you get this one functional enough to get rid of.
Hiya CO, that switch is the brake warning switch indicator in dash for juice failure or loss. Grounding switch the floating spool connects on failures. MAN I dislike HD Juice Brakes.
Plan on it then I have to take my CDL over again too to add air brake endorsement, but first need to finish it in first place by taking driving test with this rig. Got till end of November to do so.
Was it mentioned to possibly rent a rig to test in? You can get full class A with all the endorsements and no restrictions and never have to go back again.
I would love to but there is no rental rigs around here. Tried already unless someone knows someone near Miles City MT, heck I will even drive to Billings to rent the rig, they don't even have none there either. They only rent to companies on the one I did find.
SHOULD be Somebody you work on machines for that has Something can beg borrow or steal for test day. Even a close neighbor with a Dump Truck? or a Log Boom?
I have no clients, friends or neighbors I know here, just moved here permanently from Washington state in April, no neighbors for 2 or 3 miles and they barely have a vehicle to get to town with much less a semi. No logging trucks as no trees to log here, and it's mostly ranchers on people you find which they don't own semi's and if they did they aren't coming down this road. I live where there is twenty-five miles of rock road before you hit pavement which would eat most semi tires, then another 10 miles before the city of Miles City. Google Moon Creek Rd. in Miles City, MT. I live on a road off that road on a dead end road, so desolate the power lines or internet lines don't go here, I could give you my address and it wouldn't come up on maps either, it's that desolate. Got 600 acre parcels BLM tied to other 600 acre parcels butted up against my 22.5 acres and if that doesn't seem desolate enough, there wasn't one firework heard on 4th July out here. Cell phone service is 20 something miles away and I'm typing this over a satellite powered up by solar system while listening to birds chirp and locusts make clacking noise. Just want the CDL to use my semi for more than hauling a camper when traveling such as building supplies for whatever I want to build.
I’m cringing reading this. I also have an 86 S1954 and need to replace those rubber output lines.
Just close your eyes and hope while taking them off the block and hope it doesn't give. I think water got in there froze and caused it to crack from inside out. The previous owner mechanics didn't seem to do much upkeep on the truck and or know much when fixing anything. When they snapped the first transmission they drove it till it was toasted and when the rear axle splitter stop splitting they just pulled the plug on it and set it to side and drove on. Few of the things I have fixed of their lack thereof whatever they didn't do or attempted to do.
This is largely my son’s project, but it’s in my custody. It’s primarily a farm truck and has been hacked on a lot by POs. The splitter was hot wired in high when I got it. Had to replace the motor. I was planning on cutting those nuts with a dermal before trying to remove them.
Those aren't too bad just soak them with PB blaster or of the likes for next 24 hours, hold on to the nut with 7/16th size with pair of vise grips and use a 5/8 wrench for other side and it will come off.The block itself will take a 5/8 wrench to hold onto. Had to replace the motor in mine too just left the rest attached and cleaned up the terminals.
The place I called for the part I posted on here is a dud, called 2 days ago for the part and they said soon as they get to it they will call me, the never did. I had to call them and they were reluctant to check for the part, I bet if I asked for a engine they would be all over it like stink on ****. I gave them the part number, the lot number of the truck I seen it on in the pictures and they still refused to, so if they are on here this is for you wasting my time ,,!,,. Decided to go with DMillers, Birken Vogt and crane operators plan to put aftermarket on, I ordered the one from crane operators posted link and will take it into town Wednesday to get the adapters. Thanks to everyone that could help, helped!
A half of a days worth of work, but line lock brake and proportioning brake valve is installed and works pretty good...
Fabricobbling is a wonderful line of work, I may have a equal now!!
That's a first of I ever heard a word of such "Fabricobbling" guess it means to do something like this....
With a little bit of this... Tired of driving around using RPM for speedometer plus I need it for my CDL test, poor testing instructor going to jump in my truck and be awe struck with *** look that will stick throughout the test. Maybe I should mount some hidden cameras.
Time to wake a old thread up, I think I been on the road too long and my mind is in overdrive from lack of physical labor. Anywho I've got an idea!!! Currently pegging 2600 to 2750 RPM on my DT466 in my current rig doing 60 to 62 mph with FS6206a Eaton transmission and it has no overdrive, straight 1 to 1 ratio in 6th gear. I discovered another transmission that might work two ways, one to hold extra power and two less rpm's... FSO8406a with .79 in 6th gear Seems extra 4 inches longer than F6206a which I had to steal from drive shaft without modifying it, I can see the splines on the slip joint which have me cringing. Could I split the O/D for when climbing mountains, cause if I split the 1 to 1 as is with 41.4 inch diameter tires and 4.89 axle I'm going really too slow with high RPM's, looking for that in between. Or should I just toss the rear axle for different ratio? My opinion is it's easier to change transmission out than it is to change axle out even though it's more expensive. I'm doing all the work myself.
A Fuller RTO-6613 is a good transmission in that application. I think it has about a .74 overdriven high gear. I had an 83 1754 IH, (9.0ltr V8) in rollback service and replaced the original Clark 5 speed with an RTO-909 and was pleased with the result. That truck was replaced with basically the same you have w/DT-466 and a RTO-6613 and it went down the road pretty good with a little fuel "tweaking" in the pump along with engine timing.
Was thinking more on Two Speed diff with a higher hi side ratio would be better, could then Split gears no air system required.
Little bit too long in dimensions it would require driveshaft to be modified and no air on board to shift it. I have tweaked the fuel system and need to get a EGT gauge in soon before I put my camper and tools back on board. Though the retiming sounds like something I will look into. Was looking for intercooler for turbo last night, that will be needed too to keep EGT's down. That's going to be heavy to lift up in there, forgot to add I will be doing this in the middle of a field when it comes around to doing with no concrete or heavy equipment to move it. It's how I did the transmission when I put it in, which seemed more balanced to move around. How much torque can these 3rd members take before giving out?
I have never seen an S1954 series without air brakes myself and have been around a lot of them? The 1800 series could be spec'd with either air, or juice brakes I know of. All the 1700 and lighter series were juice brakes from what I've seen?
Swapped a great many differentials even rear units on tandem dumps in dirt lots, NOT Fun by any sense of the imagination, but can be done. Used a sheet of plywood, stand them up on the yoke, walk back toward the hole then controlled crash tilt it into the bore, used a Guide stud/cut off bolt to align things as raised it up on a car style hydraulic jack then wriggled them down towards home. Rag off the lip, silicone the crap out of the gap and slam the bugger home. Also done two Coffing hoists off a Bar across rails one each side under the third member to wriggle up to the mouth of the banjo housing.
Done that a time or two also. Replacing a blown rear rear Eaton RS-404 in a tandem dump I stood the bed up and modified an engine "cherry picker" temporarily sticking it to the frame of the truck w/good old 6010 rod and my Hobart engine drive welder. Worked really well and saved my back when it came to lifting it up into the housing by carrying the weight. Lots more fun inside a well lit shop if there is such a thing as fun to be had with that type job.....
Never considered that trick with the 42K and up Rockwells, old Eatons and 36K Rockemwells were not so bad just too often.
The old SQHD's would keep a guy busy in the vocational trades..... SQHP's a bit better but not by much. SQ100's were the start of a reliable rear drive axle from Rockwell, (IMO) and is what is in my B-61.
Well I hold to testimony I have a odd truck, but yeah it’s a S1954 with juice brakes, 9k front axle and 19k rated rear axle and that rating was done with 20 inch wheels according to the door sticker. It doesn't even have the original wheels that the axles were rated with either, makes me wonder if it can hold more weight right up to maximum limit per axle per an inch of tire width.
Currently have 11R22.5 10 lug Budd wheels on it too. Disc on front and back.
I don't think I've ever seen an S-1954 spec'd that lightly. Most were at least a 10.5K steer I've seen. However back in those days most truck manufactures would still build what was needed or desired. Is this truck a single axle tractor, or short wheelbase?
Nope 236 inch wheelbase with single axle, there is pictures through out this post I believe on what it looks like. This is it with it loaded as I use it...
Wonder if wasn't a old Rental Fleet runaway. Penske or Ryder? They spec'd a lot of weird stuff.
I've been going back through the postings. You have an odd one for sure I feel with the way it was initially set up but I never really ever worked on beverage haulers other than fiberglass hoods and such. Never any frame or driveline work I remember.
Seen a lot of S1600 series set up with "U-Haul" with air ride rear suspension to dump allowing a lower deck loading height. They were lightly spec'd but pretty specific to their orders. These were juice brakes and some automatic, some manual transmissions.
My old Beverage GMC is similar, Gas engine 7000 with a AT540 trans. Not a Speedster with a Low ratio single speed diff either. And was a Lohr drop center Beer Dist. Truck at one point in its life.
This one was spec’d for Olympic Peninsula Beverage Distribution company that was bought out, I got it for $750 instead of $1000 of asking price. Guess I need to post pictures from the beginning of when I got it...
Here we go.... First picture of it as I bought it, second one is after I gutted interior out and started welding a pedestal for the camper, third is finished product of the pedestal, fourth is when I start cutting top half of beverage truck off.
This is the hitch plate I had custom bent and I welded hitch and safety chain hooks on then drilled 12 holes to bolt to the frame, I slid it inside the frame of semi and drilled another 12 holes, mind you this is 3/4 plate of steel. Second one is where the camper starts going on in middle of snow storm "brilliant" idea... and as progress goes on of putting doors on it after I pulled the roll up ones off.
Possumbelly Beer Wagon.
Doors welded on and the adventure begins... Done everything in this thread in less than a year plus rebuilt the camper from white to color you now see in the picture.
Actually the part you can see in where the doors are put on at one side is mine (drivers side) and the other side is my significant others stuff (passenger side), the gray area you see painted is about 4' x 8' which divided in half is batteries and solar system controllers and such one side and water/sewage other side. Here is my side without it fully loaded...
Biggest issue with these modified frames is high centering, no way NOT to. You got a decent deal as I did with mine, the bigger difference is you kept the drop frame where the previous owner of mine re-railed cab back. I would use it for awhile, leave it as is where is for now, start aligning to find a old Single axle Air brake city tractor day cab something else. That will give a foundation for bigger, better, badder, and more effective.
Actually haven't had the opportunity to high center it yet, though is in back of my mind when I drive it off road on undeveloped roads, Give me excuse to custom build a bumper to hold my winch. Honestly you want to know what my next truck I want to be, something along lines of M813 with Garwood winch on the front, awe bring back sweet memories plowing through a few houses chasing someone that took pop shot at us with RPG's or maxing out at 55 mph with pedal on floor trying to get out sticky situations.
Says to grind down my shift fork on my 2 speed rear axle on any parts that touch A or B, well it touches A and has 3/32 gap on axle face when I rest the card on A. Why would all of sudden need to do this on 34 year old truck, or should I just ignore and slap the new splitter motor on? At same time could be reason the previous one failed?
New shifter motor assemblies are 'Different', forks were modified for the new style as the old style forks were different than new style.
Okay then I need to shave the fork, OFF WITH THE HEAD!!! The motor assemble I pulled off sure looked like the new one, guess that's why it's moving around is they just slapped it in and didn't check causing it to bind up and break it lose over time. Seems to be reoccurring theme on this truck to find where previous owners mechanic didn't check tolerances or maintain something or didn't look up specs to put it in right specs.
I got the same notice and template with my motor. I didn’t see too much interference so only hit the end of the shaft/opening with a file to clean it up a little bit. Rig doesn’t see too many miles but has been shifting okay...
Took grinder to mine and now all is installed. When I got the rig it only said around 290k miles which is low for a 1986 rig and from appearance of the brakes it was the originals from the factory. So I maybe have another 2 to 7 hundred thousand miles left to go at which point frame will rot out first or I get bored and get a bigger stronger rig.
Alright, replaced the whole ******* motor assembly and still not splitting gears. Though that’s part of reason here, where do I find a reseal kit for the oil cooler, it’s a DT466? Parked the rig at Home Depot and coolant came out the part where it connects to front of engine where it goes in. On another note this trip is being hell for me, blown transmission on my car one day, oil cooler started leaking next day along with one wheel seals that is leaking on my brakes and in middle of snow storm some fuq face in semi passed and busted window on my camper from a rock he slung up from the rock/dirt they laid down. Though I passed him later pulled over getting a speeding ticket, I didn’t know the window was busted at the time, but he is only one that passed me so it’s how I know.
OK, gotta ask, does the motor shift sitting still? Can you jack one wheel(Motor Side) of the rear end and roll the wheels while the wife shifts the 2 spd? The shift motor drives a spool that engages a sun gear and a locking spline at the two shift aspects, to make the two speed on axles. If it just ratchets the spool is too far rounded to stay engaged the rear end HAS to come out.
I will get back with that result soon as we get somewhere where there isn't snow, ice or blowing gale winds of snow and ice Though if that has to come out I'm digging for another axle, this 4:89 ratio is too low and the pinion seal is leaking. Typing this as I'm bottle feeding it two quarts of oil
Tomorrow Dmiller I will lift the truck/semi/rig up to see why the gears aren't splitting with your advice, I have arrived at my destination in Beaumont TX and now the fun begins.. Anywho as most know this rig and the question remains to be answered, what is this thing called, is it a truck or a semi and why is it considered a semi or truck? It's a class 7 truck according to the GVW rating of 28,000 lbs, has wheels of such, the gearing of such, and engine of such. So which is it a semi or truck, cause I'm going round and round with my folks on explaining it's basically a semi. I can add a 5th wheel hitch if it makes the difference, but as I see it, its fuqing semi
Just sayin' here, I had a Ford Louisville with an Eaton shift motor on the rear axle and after 2 months of trying to get a split shift I figured out it was a locker for the diff, not a 2 speed. Boy did I feel dumb. The switch knob was way down on the shift lever.
Unless mount a fifth wheel on it you have a Straight Truck, even with a Full Trailer it is still a straight truck combination rig. Semi refers to Semi Tractor/Trailer combination. A Semi Trailer is one without a front axle, a Full trailer can be joe dog equipped or have a permanently attached dolly. If the DOT boys wanted to start problems every Goose Neck out there is a Semi Trailer.
With what people are hauling on a goose neck, it should be a semi class.
Well I got a 5th wheel plate in storage that can be mounted, but I get what you mean. So that settles that argument which means, if I bought a semi and took 5th wheel plate off then it would be considered a straight truck.
Splurged a little or I should say I bought some needed front leaf springs for my S1900. First called up International that proclaimed the rig belonged in Smithsonian museum and got the part numbers, ran measurements across with what Vanderhaags had in same dimensions on same make model and found some. Though I upped the leaf spring count from 6 springs to 9 cause I'm currently 1,400 lbs over my 9,000 lb limit on my front axle. Also I am only 2 inches away from the frame on the drivers side leaf spring frame and I can feel every 10 bridges bottom my side out traveling across the US, that wasn't fun. Same price for the 9 spring ones as the 7 spring ones and they didn't have anything listed as 6 springs nor did anyone, only new ones from International. Now for the million dollar question, where can I find some new U bolts for these damn things or is this going to be a International part number or can I get run of the mill ones from anywhere?
Any regular Spring shop can make U-bolts for this, will need bolt dia., a pack thickness plus axle drill thickness plus any spacer thicknesses as well the length of thread one wishes as well width and whether Semi Round or square top then they will form them to the numbers. I get mine thru St. Louis Spring, should be a Spring maker near to where you are at.
Did a Google on Beaumont, try City Spring 798 College as to what they can do or who recommend. City Spring & Brake Services 4.2 (17) · Brake shop Beaumont, TX (409) 833-5695
Thanks I will call them Monday though I found the reason the axle isn't splitting. Seems it's eating fuses for dessert after a few seconds of splitting the switch. Basically flip the switch and by time I get to back to hear anything I hear it blows. Brand new axle splitter the whole motor and unit, it isn't the wire cause I disconnected the wire from the motor and doesn't blow. My thought process is, is either A the new motor is fried or B everything is seized up it just blows the fuse instead of moving anything. Tried the spinning of the wheel while wife flipping the switched and it just blew a fuse within 5 seconds. I'm betting on B due to fact I got the motor to switch before I installed it to see if it worked. So back to drawing board.......
Could definitely be a bad motor. I put a new wiper motor in a Case loader last week that was dead right out of the box. Take your motor off the housing and see if the fork will shift manually with a wheel jacked up. It shouldn't take much force.
It worked before I installed it, though I plan on doing that with the wheel jacked up tomorrow. See if I can get it to split and if it angers me I'm taking the 4 lb maul to it make it my b!tch to split.
I believe I have one of those motors new I'd have to look for sure that is if you end up needing it
That's the sad part it's new not even 30 days old, it better have warranty if so. Thanks for the offer though.
These shifter drives are designed to shift all the way even if fork doesn’t. Then as pressure relieves on the spool shift the axle. Will not be bound in the diff causing it Check your wiring around area it has to take deflection off frame to two speed. Also around any crossmembers that may have broken loose.
Also, if it really has a fuses...might want to change to breaker. My Ford was factory with 20A thermal breaker to the 2spd. Hope you find out it’s just a pinched wire and not something spendy.
I’ve unplugged the motor and flipped the switch both ways last night and the fuse never blew so it’s how I know it’s not the wiring plus the meter never zeroed out across the wires either. Frame is all fine, I’m going to hard wire it and see what happens, if functions right I will switch to breaker.
Guess I better retract my last statement, seems to be a pulsing of at least one volt from what my meter can catch since it's fast going through the high and low wires. Put meter on ohms and got a reading between the power supply wire and one of the wires that was supposed to go to high or low wire after I unplugged the switch. I took the motor off and it shifts fine when I hard lined in, took and moved the fork no problem on the axle and even hooked up a fuse inline with the motor off it didn't blow a fuse. Lastly what points to bad wiring is when I took the motor off the axle and split it while still plugged in it blew a fuse.
Cannot do voltage on both sides at once, BAD JUJU!!
Yep I do know that one, what’s weird is it does it like a turn signal yet one isn’t on. So time to find a new wire to do the whole truck from shifter to splitter. Thought about toggling a 2 way switch in with marine 3 wire I have here.
Start reviewing the system for a feeder relay, sounds as someone plugged a flasher in where a three terminal relay should be.
Check the shifter switch too Unplug both ends Check continuity and short as well to ground Switches were always cheap.
There’s also power coming off one side of the splitter switch (can’t remember which) that goes to speedo cable (at least on mine). So, another wire to chase down for possible short....
Would be a 2speed speedo drive in there
CEASE FIRE!!! Okay all is wired up with new wiring. The pulse of the electricity is from a onboard inverter that the meter is picking up. As for the splitter motor is fine, I will finish up tomorrow but as it sits it's now shifting. Thirty-four year old wire just got old and few mice made a snack of it, might need some metal cladded wire in the future of where this rig goes.
Do I need to change the pins out too when I change the springs out on this rig or can I get by with new bushings and new u bolts? Don't see any rust as is as if they were loose like on lug nuts so I think I am fine from looking at them without taking them off.
Will not fully know until pull them Have reused pins in the past if not worn too much or too aggressively
They don't make them and they referred me to Beaumont Frame and Front End which wanted to charge me more than International factory ones want to charge me
Had to try.
Yep and I appreciate the time and effort too in finding it for me.
I decided to replace all the hardware from bushings to pins and bolts when I put the newish leaf springs on. The bill of lading said 404 lbs not including the pallet so I reckon I was moving around 200 lbs. of leaf spring, used floor jack to get them up. They gave me the wrong u bolts but I managed to shorten them down and ran a die to get more threads. I know not as strong as rolled threads but, it held up 300 ft lbs of torque. Had to use ratchet straps to line axle u bolt holes up with shock perch plate plus a shim with couple jacks. Will put on new shocks tomorrow and put bumper back on, it’s ready to go. Enjoy...
happy motoring
Thanks, you too
Not changed springs hangers and all, generally left hangers hanging and pulled pins, seemed to me easier to align the holes that way as well lighter. To each his own!! Have nearly always had to use a strap or come along or some other small assist device as not enough hands or bodies, seems to have worked well for ya there so Kudos on that. ALWAYS a way to add a leverage for us old wrench heads. Would still be entertaining a Look around for a Air Brake SA Tractor that has been neglected some, snatch it up for a decent price and start the mods as can budget up to replace the Old Beer Wagon.
Didn't feel like holding the springs up in the air as I sledge hammered pins into the hangers, it was bad enough my dad was trying to get me to put them in the press, as if I wanted to lift them that high up. Plus no swinging room, yeah these aren't the just push them in by hand pins, they had to be pressed out along with the bushings too which I did with sledge and sockets. Ratchet straps, F clamps or C clamps are my friends here with pry bars. Yeah would be nice to put air brakes and such on, but first I need more power!!! Already turned the injector pump up and have a list of things to go down to get it up to around 250 or 300, only lacking time. Just redid the front with new brakes last year so looking to wear them down at least halfway down before I start taking a Look Around, plus I would have to redo my CDL when I get to air brakes and I just took that test.
Time to mount some new gauges since I'm too poor to buy a rig already loaded with such luxury. Swear if I ever sell this rig as a whole this will be my evidence that anything was done and when it was done. Measuring it up and marking, not bad for free hand guessing and piece of pipe. Yeah that's my "emergency brake" line lock and trailer brake below installed I did. I purposely put the bit in backwards for guiding the hole saw in to prevent it from walking around and making a hole bigger than anticipated. Pre drilled holes before putting hole saw bit in, who says you need fancy tools to install gauges. Decided after this picture to move the EGT gauge to the top next to engine temp, picture of that later when I get all gauges in. Going to put in boost gauge in second hole, just haven't figured out the third hole, any suggestions on must need?
If you drive in icing conditions, an outside temp gauge is kind of nice to have.
I was thinking same thing though I didn't know if there was something more dire needed to be watched. Though thanks for the idea, I'm still open for more...
The 74 Peterbilt I had was originally sold to an owner/operator, he sure liked his gauges. It had quite the list: Oil pressure, Primary air Water temp, Secondary air Engine oil temp, Application air Trans oil temp, Emergency line air Diff temp (1), Outside air temp Boost, Analog clock Fuel pressure (at the rail), Volts AND amps All this plus the speedo and tach, for some reason I think I'm missing two more. At least everything was clustered in relevant areas so monitoring the important stuff was second nature. Oh, the oil pressure and water temp gages were the 2-5/8" size that made them stand out. For some reason the list won't post as 2 separate columns.
Good idea turning the bit on the hole saw- hope I can remember that trick. I liked the outside temp gauge on the company truck. Now I have the luxury, with my little guy, he doesn’t roll when the weather is bad... I reworked the rotted wiring harness and upgraded my dash, too.
I think you got them all, and looks like Boost and Ambient outside temperatures will fill those two holes. Then later on I will go with engine oil temperature, axle temperature and transmission temperature. Might only need oil temperature cause I’m not 80,000 lbs or even 40,000 so I doubt I could raise those two, though might be good in case it runs low on fluid.
I did forget one at least, Big ole Isspro pyrometer.
And will need Fuzzy Dice on the Sun Visor clip, just not many rear view mirrors anymore.
No fuzzy dice, but my oldest daughter braided a really nice horse hair horn pull.
I tend to rip my rear view mirrors off on everything I own, sets my PTSD off having ability to see person behind me easier on how close they are. Plus can't see past the camper through the back window anyhow. Don't have a sun visor clip either, this rig is just bland. Umm that is what led to all this was a pyrometer install, just went with Autometer cause they give military discounts
At this rate I'm just going to custom build a dash panel with all matching gauges. Seems they make a amplifier temperature gauge but not a ambient temperature gauge, guess if it gets below 0 degrees it doesn't matter anyways what you do, you're f&^ked.
I meant I left it off my list, that got the count to 17, I'm still thinking there were 18 for some reason. I think I got the last one!!! it was an application gauge for the front axle brakes, they had their own regulator.
Wait!!!! I know what we are missing, a bobblehead of some sorts on the dash.
the little grass skirt one with a rube Bloomberg head on it
Find it and I will stick it on there for you
Now where should I stick this light bar, and should I get a bigger one or just run this one? Possibly get a second one and put next to it is a option, anywho let the votes and comments roll in .
Yes I need to paint the cab to match the camper too. Anywho, I thought about mounting it up on the bottom of the camper above the cab. Can't see much when going off road with this rig.
Seems like mounting at base of windshield might not allow much light to hit ground closer to the vehicle. Choices up front might do better lighting what’s right in front and to your sides...
Was thinking myself as to Glare from lamp across hood distracting, top of hood nose for distance and dispersal.
Was thinking same though thinking right above the grill for most dispersal.
Mounted it on the hood above the grill. Back on the road again and here are the results... I definitely need better lights on this rig and maybe bigger light bar or small ones for side views.
Halogen replacement headlamps will help some The old corn queens seemed to always be short sighted on lighting
Thought about a pair of LED’s from J. W. Speaker would help. You say halogen replacement, yet these are halogens, is there something I’m missing?
LED replacements may be availabe
They are though for good ones aren't cheap cause I think they need heaters for them in extreme cold climates from what I have seen.
Was wondering. Is the ground off the lamps good and clean? Can cause them to be dimmer than normal.
Will chase them down tomorrow and check, forgot about looking for that.
All grounds are clean still same results of horrible light output, leaf springs are torqued again and now I'm going to open another bag of feral cats to let out. Going to weld a tank for back of my rig to take up the whole section behind the rear axle to hold diesel. Figure dimensions of 42 inches long 90 inches wide 22 inches tall at approximately 360 gallons it will hold plus the two 45/50 gallon already mounted on the rig equaling about 450 gallons. Am I over on how much I can have without hazmat license? Already know I need to weld baffles in it, will bend most of the sides as possible and make the lid with a lip that fits over the other 4 sides to weld on top to have least amount of welded surfaces. Will be using 3/16 steel for the project 1/4 for the flange around fill point and test with air, soap and water for leakage.
I personally think it’s time to put this rig out of it’s misery, seems after 6 months of not moving in rainforest minus warm temperatures the rear axle is gone. Wife doesn’t want me to for all the work I put into it, money, time and memories for what it has done for us. Seems on turns the rear axle pops, after the 4th mountain pass it made a clunk in the axle when I down shifted, and spun up some when I up shifted. Three hundred twenty-eight miles till home can she do it... Went to refill and actually had second thoughts of spending the money, might have to drive the car back and get the other semi to tow it back in two trips. Started the popping on the way out the driveway, thought it was the car not towing right. Will pop the motor off in the morning and see if I can manually shift it into higher gear in the morning after lifting it up and spinning the tires a bit to seat it in case something is stopping the sun gear.