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Travel Motor problems Cat 323 DL

Nice&Yellow ยท 2011-10-03 05:19

I've been noticing a lack of response in my left travel motor and was wondering if anybody has any idea what it could be from? There are no leaks and the right travel motor response normally. My tracks both have the same tension in them and the finals are reading fine on oil. Any feedback would be great, thank you.

Replies11
  1. #1Per Eriksson2011-10-03 14:33

    Have you cut open the case drain filter and looked for metallic particles, if not do that. Also check the amount of case drain, maximum rate allowed is 15L/min.

  2. #2Nice&Yellow2011-10-04 02:15

    Thank you for your feedback. Was just wondering if I do find metallic particles in the case drain what exactly would that signify, that the pump or pumps are going out on me? How do you go about checking the max flow rate is under 15L/min? Thank you for your feedback.

  3. #3Cmark2011-10-04 04:02

    Can you elaborate a little on "lack of response"? Do you mean low power? Slow travel? Delay when you move the control? As a D series, it must be fairly new. If it's got low hours and been well serviced, a motor fault is unlikely. (But not impossible).

  4. #4Per Eriksson2011-10-04 15:57

    If you find stuff in the filter it usually indicates a problem with a pump or motor and in your case when you say the only problem you have is with one track it would point to that drivemotor. Testing case drain is fairly simple, get something to put between the sprocket and frame to block rotation, remove the drain hose from the motor and plug it, install a temporary hose on the motor and put that in a bucket or something to collect the oil, pull the travel lever max at full throttle during a period of time and measure the amount of oil that came out, max rate is 18L/minute However, a motor failure is rare but this is easy things to check, since you say it is bad in both directions that would indicate a motor problem rather than a valve or relief problem.

  5. #5danc2011-10-04 17:24

    the centre swivel joint could also give you a slow motor, have you crawled under and checked for dampness? internal leakage in the swivel joint possible also, you may not 'see' a leak. you could verify by swapping motor pipes at the topside of the joint, but sometimes swapping elbows and straight couplings make it tricky.

  6. #6Nice&Yellow2011-10-05 03:45

    Thank you for all that info. I spoke to a Cat mechanic who is telling me that 90% of the time its the swivel joint that has an internal leak an a machine that has 2300 hrs. I will look into swapping motor pipes to get a better idea and go from there. The case drain filter seems fine but did not cut it open so will look in to that after. To answer your question Cmark, its a lose of power and delay when you move the control. Does that give you any more clues?

  7. #7Cmark2011-10-05 05:39

    I would suspect either; A. Crossover relief valves. Need to check relief pressure with the track blocked and compare to the good side, or B. Swivel. Check relief pressure with track blocked and then dead-head the lines at the travel motor. Recheck pressures and compare. Swapping the lines will not help you much if the problem is in both forward and reverse, or C. Motor fault. Check case drain as per Per's advice above, or D. Pilot system problem. Need to tee in to the pilot lines from the foot pedals and compare pressures to the good side. I think you're going to need some pressure gauges to proceed. Good luck.

  8. #8danc2011-10-05 15:29

    just to clarify, you want to swap sides, so the pair to left track swapped with pair on right track. swapping the other way (left-left, right-right)will tell you nothing , same levers will operate same tracks,but in reverse. one more simple check to do, will take 2mins, remove the ring bath bung (small plate, 2 bolts,bottom boom cylinders) if you find oil in there, i'd be pulling down the swivel joint considering your travel issue plenty good advice from the guys good luck!!

  9. #9JIMCO2012-02-04 15:43

    Hello, I would like to get in on this conversation. I have the same problem on my machine, Hyundai 180 LC-3 ROBEX. When cold my drive is slow to respond and when switching to "rabbit" it stalls then slowly picks up. The opposite drive works as it should. My dealer reccommended the flow test at the case drain as well as the joint swivel. I have yet to make those tests. The other related issue I have is the drive motor seal and shim have blown out. I have replaced it once and now it is leaking again so Its time to change again. The regional service rep said doing the flow test might tell me why the seal is failing. It is definatly an overpressure problem to the seal because when I changed the first one it and the backing washer was pushed out like a cone. It stayed seated but pushed the center out until failure. Any Ideas what the the problem is after I take the flow test and find too much flow? Thank you

  10. #10darren982012-05-17 22:20

    Hi new on here and they wont let me start a new thread. this was closest topic i could post on. im looking for help with a 2008 asv pt 60 compact track loader with pilot controls. machine has 1900 hours on it. there is a long hesitation when starting to travel foward. it also happens in reverse but not as bad. with high range engaged it seems to work much better. It also seems to pull to the left. any suggestion ?

  11. #11JIMCO2012-05-18 23:39

    I tried it all on my machine, case drain flow, pressure. Main pump pressure. Pulled the drive motor found the motor shaft seal was deformed. Replaced seal. Still had a leak. Pulled drive motor again. Found an after market seal at 20% of dealer price, $30. V $130. superior construction. I put it all back together ran the tracks in the air with no load. Still oil leaking. It looked as though it was coming from the drive motor again. I too also had the shifting problem. From low to high it would stall the track for a second or two then shift. I work basicly alone so I would climb up on the machine, run the track then climb down check for leaks. Well after changing 4 seals. Bought all the fittings and gauges for testing pump , case drain pressurres etc. I found the 1/4 inch line leading into the drive gearbox loose. Tightened it one quarter turn and problem solved. I couldnt see it leak when I was operating it and it only pushed the oil out when It was working. For me, a lot of work and money for a simple fix. Who is the "jack-ass" now? I hope this helps. Look for something simple and avoid my mistakes. Now it works great. I will be starting therapy next week. Good luck!