my machine is having two main problems. Running very warm sometimes......oddly...the belt is only 3 months old and it already has a slice in the middle.....I've adjusted it normally.....and I suspect it's the water pump bearing locking down sporadically cause I've changed the coolant, thermostat, blown out dusty radiator with air compressor. It just happens sometimes....not all the time. I'm thinking the water pump is locking up and the belt is slicing across the pulley? I have a new water pump ready to stick on it.....and it uses a flat o-ring gasket and cat left the damn gasket out of the box! Machine has 5000 gentle hours. We bought it new. On the the next issue..... The dang thing is losing it's prime in the fuel system. Started spluttering sometimes. Then got worse. Changed fuel filter. Was hard to use the hand pump to prime filter with bleeder air screw. Ran good...then spluttered. Then will die when using machine under load. Prime with hand pump again. Then runs good a second...then splutters and dies. So, the gauge shows half a tank of fuel. I stuck a steel brake line down in the tank to confirm depth of fuel. Gauge is accurate. I opened that tank drain valve on the bottom of fuel tank and nothing drains out! Odd. Shouldn't this be used as a water drain? Fuel drain? There are two petcocks. One for closing off the fuel line to engine. One for draining off water from bottom of tank. The fuel tank drain petcock doesn't drain. Odd. Must be stopped up? So I decided to pull the rubber fuel line that runs to engine before darkness fell upon me on Saturday night. Rubber line must be glued to the nipple yet needs a hose clamp to retain tightness. I had planned to blow air throughout the fuel line. Shouldn't this machine have a primary fuel filter like the glass type that precedes the canister type? But where? Is the fuel pump mounted on the side of the injector pump? That's the only place I can figure that it is right? Do they commonly fail @5000 hours? It must suction instead of push fuel from tank. Part number and price? Easy to replace? So one more thing....at dark....I used the long brake line to reach down in tank to scratch around in the bottom of the tank thinking there might be a screen or something that catches rust. I did feel something that felt "grated". Cranked up machine to move it to a better location for refueling Monday. Machine ran fine all the sudden. So for Monday morning....I'm in a rush to get this machine running. Would put air pressure on the fuel line to blow out some trash or rust? Order a new fuel pump? Will compressed air blow out some type of diaphragm in the fuel pump? As far as overheating......my hunch says it's water pump. But, any other ideas? Any ideas that might link these two problems together? Operator swears to me that he has watched the temp gauge and made sure he let's it idle down when getting two bars below the red zone. Engine sounds smooth. I would have replaced the water pump Friday but....cat didn't give me a new o-ring gasket for pump. They are closed on weekends! I would really appreciate some thoughts on my problem from other experienced cat320c owners. I hope you can understand my rambling description on here. Thanks to all.....
I don't have a cat . have worked on a friend's 320B and my other brands . my guess's would be on the drain on the fuel tank is normally stopped up you have to poke something in it to un stop it (take a change of clothes with you) do it before cranking up machine and stirring up trash on my friends it had been setting for a while and the nice plastic cover on the fuel cap was missing and it created a nice little funnel for the rain to run in tank probely drained about five gallons of water out and then on the fuel line there is most likely bolt in the banjo fitting on the fuel line some where probely where it goes into the primer pump the inside of bolt has a hole in the end which a small screen is screwed in it's most likely clogged but be careful on each side of bolt the are copper washers don't drop them or it won't seal when you put it back together I've asked cat guy's about this screen before they didn't know about it . don't know about the over heating other than make for sure that you blowed out the entire radiator good Iv'e been proved wrong on blowing them out completely before with a wind meter the whole bottom have was stopped up. good luck
I'll second everything Clintm said. A picture of the slice in the belt might help. Post the temps of the water going to and coming back from the radiator when it's overheating if you can (use a temp gun on the radiator hoses, or top and bottom of the radiator, just not on a shiny metal surface) The first thing to check on the overheating is the radiator plugging up. It can look clean until you take it off. The only half decent way to check it on the machine is to put a light on the other side and look all the way through. Rubber hoses stick just like radiator hoses, you have to pry them back one side at a time and they'll pop loose. Or you can blow back through that hose from the other end. I take it you don't drain the water out of your tank every morning, huh? Nobody does, but the drain is there so you drain a bit every now and then so that you know if there's any water or junk in the tank, if all you get is clean fuel you can let it go a little longer between checks. With the drain stopped up, like Clint said, get that draining, then blow back through the other fuel line, then drain a little more, then use that drain every morning until there's no junk. Those are the obvious things to do first. Post the temps you get. The cat guys will be along to tell you if there's something more specific.
I would say your 2 fuel issues are related. Yes, when you open the tank drain valve **** should come out. The fact that nothing is coming out suggests that the bottom of the tank could well be covered with a large quantity of something quite nasty. With the valve in the open position can you poke something like a welding rod or a stiff piece of wire up the drain hose, or can you blow compressed air up it..? As posted above either stand well back or have a change of clothes ready. I would tackle the tank first then move on to the fuel lines because if you don't get the crap out of the tank it will continue to get sucked up the lines, thus negating whatever you do there. I'm not hands-on on this model but something in the deep recesses of my brain tells me there is a screen somewhere (maybe disguised as a banjo fitting, Cat are good at that) that could well be what's getting clogged up. Your fan belt issue could well be the water pump bearing partially seized due to the condition of the coolant and/or age of the pump. I seem to recall you drained some pretty nasty liquid out of the cooling system when you flushed it. If you give me the Part Number of the pump you have I can tell you what's the Part Number of the gasket/seal that is required to install it.
As I recall the C model excavators have an electric fuel pump and fuel water separator mounted in the compartments behind the cab. You need to make sure the piping to the tank is clear as stated above. I have used a piece of eight inch welding rod to clean out those drain valves. Turn the house in a way that you have access to the valve and can get out of the way of the mess that drains out when you get the drain hole opened up.
also make sure you are ready to shut off the tank drain valve after you get it unstopped because you won't have time to think about once you get it unstopped (and the fuel out your face)
Hate to point fingers it was bought new and now has 5,000 hours on it and the drain has not been opened on the fuel tank? I make it a habit to open them on any machine that has them at each and every engine oil change at also inspect and clean the fuel cap at the same time. Also if you got it new isn't there a maintenance/operators manual behind the seat? All the Cat equipment we have seen since maybe 1975 have come with one. I'd be finding it or ordering a new one from the dealer and make it bed time reading material for a couple days. If you can give me full S/N I might be able to email a copy to you.
320 I think I remember the 320 having a cable attached to operators manual behind the seat in the plastic compartment. Where it went I have no idea! I have a parts manual. It doesn't cover much except for the cab and hydraulics! ***! I have opened the fuel water drain valve but I haven't kept up with this machine in a few years to remember .... I've been using other machines on other jobs . My dad mostly ran and kept up with this machine . He has serious terminal health problems.... I will attempt to get a reading on the radiator hoses with a thermal gun. I will get a pic of the belt and post it hopefully via iPhone on the job. I'm hoping this thing isn't a sensor thing under the armrest? Will blowing air back through the fuel line to the tank damage anything? Hmmm....I'm 100 miles from my cat dealer. I've been using cat fuel water separators so I'll need to figure out if wix has one at napa! If anyone has any technical data on this machine, please pm me on here for email. I'm really appreciating your help this far!
Water pump part number 10r-7555 for cat 320c Water pump part number 10r-7555 Thank you as usual for your help nige! I will get a picture of items posted. Hopefully it's possible with my old iPhone on the job tomorrow. I wonder if an o-ring for a different application would work for my water pump. Is this similar to a cat 3126 engine? Maybe a napa could have one? Might save me a 100 mile drive each way!
Forgot to post serial# cat0320canb02891 thanks so much!
The O-Ring for installing the water pump appears to be Part Number 096-9528. Cat water pumps don't usually come with the seal or gasket, you have to buy it separately. Back to your fuel issue. I'd suggest to try the best you can to free up the drain line from the tank before attempting to blow air back down the fuel line. Depending how long the drain hose is from the valve maybe you can get a piece of wire up it. If not will the hose come off and work directly on the valve itself..?
Well.....so....first thing this morning. I drained watery trash from the water fuel separator. Them I poked a metal rode up in fuel tank water drain ball check valve petcock. Broke it loose. Cranked right up. Not exactly perfect.....but pretty good. So for so goodman that. But I wanna know where the the banjo fitting screen is.....anyone know? This might rear it's ugly head later..... So,i added some coolant this morning and nursed the machine all day. Worked on the machine after work till 11 pm tonight. Belt wash dry rotted and cracked badly. Split down the middle. I got a spray can and quickly painted my water pump so it wouldn't be bare metal. Pulled the old one off.... Get my o-ring gasket that my cousin picked up for me 100 miles away. It was a thin little thing. Seems slightly too big but fits I suppose.... Put the new one on...and the dang thing was shorter than the original!!! The belt didn't line up! My original water pump seemed ok. So I put the old one back on. I put the new belt on. Filled with coolant. Unbolted the coolant sample plug to purge air. Ran the machine in dark to try and heat it up. Won't heat. But maybe the temp drops? So I got to thinking.....maybe the crappy belt was slipping on the water pump? But, it never chirped. The belt was something like 6 months old! And I had adjusted it often. The Mitsubishi belt seems thin and low quality. What gives? Is there a better alternative in quality? Tomorrow....i will put it to the test. I took my heat gun and pointed it at the radiator inlet hose on top and the outlet hose on bottom of radiator. The dot was pointed right before and after the radiator inlet and outlet nipple. I did this after 15 minutes of hard digging in the dark. Not the best hot test...but just a sample. Top of radiator inlet temp was roughly 110 Fahrenheit. Bottom of radiator outlet temp was 97 Fahrenheit. This was kinda after I stopped machine and jumped off, got the gun. Crawled up there...and checked it. What temp numbers do I need to be seeing when I really really run this thing tomorrow? I am really appreciating your help thus far! And what is the deal with my water pump part number?..
When everything is working right you should see somewhere around 180 going into the top of the radiator and around 150 or less out the bottom. I usually do the checking at the water pump inlet and the thermostat elbow just below where the top radiator hose connects. I also do it while the engine is running but am very careful of turning machinery when I try to get the inlet on the water pump. I haven't had to test a Cat excavator motor so I'm not sure of what is in the way.
With a radiator that is internally in good condition (i.e. cooling like it should) there ought to be approximately 12-18 degrees of difference between the temperature of the inlet side and the temperature on the outlet side. This is irrespective whether the coolant is fully up to temperature or not. If your machine has a single fan belt as opposed to 2 fan belts then the 10R-7555 water pump is incorrect. You need a 10R-7556.................
It's cooling at least 12 degrees. Radiator has white fuzz internally Thanks! Very much appreciated. So the cat dealer got lazy and just followed my prefix on the serial number and given me whatever..... Do they usually take stuff like that back? I spray painted it black and it's been a few months since I bought it....reciept should be on file right? In regards to my radiator....what flushes white fuzz in my radiator? I don't wanna damage my liners (does it have liners) etc..... Powder cascade won't clean white fuzz will it?
Before you go jumping all over the dealer, please post your engine (not machine) Serial Number here and just let me double-check that I'm recommending the correct Part Number for the water pump.
I would never be rude to my dealer. But I want to sometimes! Ok Nige, here is my serial number: cat0320canb02891
That's the machine, I need the engine Serial Number ......... according to my system the engine installed in that machine is S/N 7JK55958. I need you to confirm that physically on the machine so that I can confirm the Part Number of the water pump installed in that particular engine. If the 7JK55958 engine Serial Number I have given is correct the water pump is a 183-8228 or Reman 10R-7556.
Oh dang. Sorry. I know what you mean. I read that on my iPhone on the job and overlooked your obviously clear directions. And by the way. This thing has run really cool most of the time. Then, when climbing up a hill after running 2 hours this morning...... And climbing upon a dirt stockpile and loading trucks......operator said it started heating up. I ran to the machine with service truck. Got up there. Tightened belt....put in 3 gallons of coolant and then it started running cool. Oil looks clean. What I don't get about the belt is.....my machine doesn't appear to have a spring loaded tensioner. It had a fixed tensioner. The pulleys look great. Water pump was ok. Spins good. Alternator isn't making a noise. Belt doesn't last like it should..... Hard to keep tensioned. Always adjusting. I have to run it tight to make the water pump work. Water pump spins smooth and has a good pulley and solid fins. So weird.
There is no spring-loaded tensioner on that setup. You tension the belt by loosening the bolts #2 & #5 holding the alternator in place then move it in or out as required using bolt #3. Finally tighten the bolts #2 & #5 up again. There should be about 1/2" maximum up-and-down movement of the belt measured at a point midway between the alternator pulley and the water pump pulley which is out of shot on the top LH side of the photo. Could there possibly be a rough edge on the inside of a pulley somewhere that's taking the belt out..?
Engine: 7jk55958 Thank you so much Nige for the belt info. I have had it adjusted as your specs. It loosened up a little after replacement I suppose. So, early this morning, machine ran great for a couple of hours. My operator says he climbed up a slope to where the dirt stockpile was. He states he climbed upon stockpile and started loading trucks. Red loose clay. He says it all the sudden starting getting hot on gauge. He said it wouldn't idle cool down and had to cut it off. <<< I know....ugh. I went up to machine with service truck. I tightened serpentine belt to specs that Nige suggested. I suppose that an engine with a spring loaded tensioner runs looser....but this thing must like to be tight! I had to pour in 3 gallons of water to fill machine up to cap level. Does it need to be that level? Seems that it's not liking that level. Cranked it and it ran great. Ran cool a few more hours. Operator parked it to go do another task on another machine. I went to start checking on it. Belt was find. Radiator cap had air pressure on it for sitting 15 minutes after running. I could see the flutes in the radiator and water was not up to that level. I cranked and poured in 1 gallon and left off radiator cap. Engine ran smooth. Belched coolant a few times. Kept doing that until it slowed and coolant cycled with thermostat. It seemed to have a slight bubble as the thermostat kicked in. Then lessened. Them smooth with pin head size bubble or two. Cap still off radiator. I also took off oil cap on valve cover. I have been having leaking valve covers for a while. Cap hasn't been to great.....I had added an o-ring around cap a year ago to tighten it up. I have noticed oil from around cap past two days. Oil isn't perfectly black. But it's not exactly milky either. It's a pretty fresh oil changed lately. The coolant filling splatters water and coolant all over engine because of fan pulling it from radiator cap. Not sure if the valve cover is wet (plus it rained today) from coolant and such and then oil if falling on it or the oil pushing out is moist with water. When I check the dipstick. Oil level is just barely over full. Barely. Oil is ok looking...but in my mind....a microscopic odd color to it. Maybe I am just paranoid. I checked inlet and outlet of radiator and had a minimum of 12 degree change in temp. Checked with infrared thermos meter gun. I added a full box of cascade powder detergent. Closed the cap. Ran the machine 2 hours. Ran cool. One green bar below midway. Never climbed. Parked machine. Heard the puke tank gurgling from engine heat and it was over full. I checked oil. Same level. I checked radiator with infrared gun while sitting with engine off. Just for curiosity. Still....12 degree or more gap in cooling from inlet to outlet. Not sure about coolant level because I was afraid to pull the radiator cap and I had to leave work to get somewhere on time. I am really worried that I am losing coolant. One more thing I forgot to add.... When standing on the front of engine side. Looking over radiator and done at front engine pulleys. I can see the head where it meets the block behind the water pump. When engine is running...I see some bubbles coming from the head gasket dividing line. Idk if it's oil that has leaked and heat is bubbling that in conjunction with cascade detergent laced coolant that is splattered up on that area and the engine heat is cooking it in conjunction with fan action. When running with oil cap off...I put my hand on hole and I feel no pressure. I rev up engine and see rocker arm and shaft working fine....no milky coolant laced water splattering out? So I am not sure. If I check my coolant in morning and it's low in radiator...not sure where it's going. Any a ideas please?
Get a coolant system pressure tester, Stant makes a good one and any NAPA store has them. Pump up the pressure to about 12 - 15 PSI. It should not leak down at all. If it does, start looking for leaks. Probably one of the most common are the heater hoses because the leak shows up under the cab instead of on the engine. If the heater hoses are leaking you can join them together somewhere around the engine and run the machine for awhile to check for heating and loss of coolant. If the coolant pressure does not leak down when you do your pressure test, let off the pressure, tighten the cap back up and then start the engine. If you are leaking compression into the coolant, the pressure gauge on the tester will climb quickly and go over 15 PSI. You know you have compression problems now.
If you're worried about the coolant getting into the oil, then get an SOS oil sample kit from Cat and send off a sample.
Working on it tonight on job. Radiator pressure we have is too small. Dang! How much is an oil sample? How long on turn around? I think I have an oil sample gun somewhere....if I don't...any other method of a good sample?
Sample is less than $20 usually. Our turnaround is generally 2-3 business days.
Thanks shulace. It's been a long while since I did oil samples. Do I have to wait for a mail back on info? Or do they have an email response on oil levels? So, stayed up late working tonight. As usual. Found my radiator pressure tester. It's too small for this thing. Need a more commercial size kit. Checked coolant levels tonight a few hours after quitting time. 1 gallon low again. I can only see it coming out from coolant overflow tank. Until the thermostat opens up.....the new 1 gallon of coolant had a big bubble and tried to puke it. Engine runs smooth as silk. As long as it's full of coolant it's super cool running. So, when cold and cranking up...the little ledge behind the water pump where the block meets the head....has bubbles. I guess that pretty indicative of a head gasket? If so....what am I looking at? Anyone on here have experience with these cat 320c Mitsubishi engines? I guess I will need to pressure test/magnified head when off? Order a gasket kit? Check with straight edge? New or used head bolts? Remove and fix both heads or just that one? I'm thinking both? Do you think costex had similar quality in a gasket set to caterpillar brand? Any ideas on labor time? Costs? Thanks guys! Love this site!
Pumped up coolant pressure pump to test radiator with engine off. Slowly, super slowly leaked down from 12-15 to 10. I suspect that the pressure bladder on tester was slightly leaking. An odd fit on a 320 radiator..... Can't find leaks really. Cranked machine....after running 20 minutes from cold.... It has slowly creeped up to 17 psi so far..... Testing it as I type this. 12:40am!!! As usual. What do you think??
Slowly going back toward 15 psi......
Well...let's see. I may have messed up with the test in the darkness. I borrowed a radiator pressure tester because mine is missing. I had to use the bladder type seal adapter on the top of the radiator. I didn't back the pressure off after checking radiator pressure with engine not running. I left it at a super slowly leaked down 12 psi. Then cranked engine. Then it climbed up to 17 at one point then back to 15. Would this matter?
Did you test your radiator cap as well. I have found lots of those being junk from the factory. When I have found compression going into the coolant it was usually very fast, especially when you load the engine up. I would suggest using a spray bottle with soap in it. Pump up the pressure in the coolant system and go around the engine spraying the soap solution on the connections and around the head. You didn't mention anything about the weep hole on the water pump when you removed it did you?
Cap Thanks John. I will test the cap. I can't find any water escaping the waterpump. Mostly the overflow on the radiator. Odd thing is.... Today... It isn't using as much coolant. Running cool. I do have a suspect and suspiciousness that the oil has a touch of grey. Only on up part of dipstick. Lower normal part of dipstick in the checking level region is black normal oil. Would a bad head gasket allow oil seapage from an oil flow galley going to head to get coolant steam in engine? Any scenarios? Someone told me that once I diagnose this thing and know what's wrong.....to run blue devil head gasket sealer until I finish job and then pull the heads. Any thoughts?
Grey or white colored sludge at the top of the dipstick is usually one of the first indications of water in the engine oil. When I see that I pull a sample looking to confirm antifreeze in the oil. I'm not familiar with that engine so don't know if it has copper sleeves for the injectors but that was the most common place to look in the older engines I got involved with. The seepage is slow so generally shows up in oil samples before you can observe oil turning color. Someone here will be able say if that is possible. Head gaskets are the second most common issue. With the advent of putting the overflow bottles on coolant systems the engineers figured the best place to put the level alarms was in the bottles. The problem with that was operators don't actually check the fluid level in the radiator. The radiator caps that Cat uses are crap and leak by after just a few hours of operation. They don't hold pressure and the coolant goes out of the radiator into the tank. Then you get a seep leak on the hose between the radiator and the bottle and the coolant never goes back to the radiator and the level alarm never rings. The bottle is mounted at the floor level of the excavator so it takes a bit of vacuum to pull the coolant back to the radiator. You run low on coolant once and things get hot. The operator just sees the gauge go up but looks at the bottle and swears everything is OK. When you ask if they checked the radiator you usually get a blank stare. Liners seals are another place that can leak but I don't know if this engine has liners. Someone on here can also address that. I've also heard of oil cooler leaks causing the problem but usually the oil pressure is higher in the cooler so oil goes into the cooler instead. It sounds to me like you have lost too much coolant to not show up on the engine. When you ran the machine did you turn the cab heater to full on and check for leaks under the cab?
So I went ahead and bought a new cap. It's a basic 7lb cap. Is that the right pressure? I am also gonna do the chemical combustion in coolant test. Do you think that will be a test that rules out some things? Is it possible to have condensation in crankcase or coolant steam from coolant crossing through the head gasket break into an oil galley? Or cracked head that crosses a crossover? Does my engine have liners? John c. I think you are right about so many things that you have said. You must own some 320c cats?
Engine does not show to have combustion in coolant due to the chemical combustion test. I still see a few bubbles seeping from the front of the engine between the engine block and head behind the water pump region. I have a temporary 7 pound cap installed. Machine has been running cool and now not puking. Possible head bolt stretch that only shows up occasionally? Sent off oil sample. Waiting on results. Cat dealer says they have seen the oil cooler cause random coolant and overheating issues like this. They say they can't explain it clearly....but they have changed it and it fixed weird situations like this. Talked to a used equipment dealer that rebuilds and resells all machines. He says that I should put in blue devil head gasket sealer and finish job and this winter install a new head gasket and new head bolts and exhaust bolts. He says to make sure and buy the cat brand head gasket. He states there is a quality difference? I would assume that felpro or McCord makes the gasket for cat under contract? Ordered a 10 and 15 pound cap from napa. Which cap does my machine need? Thanks!
That engine is so small the head bolts won't stretch no matter how much they are abused. The results of the oil sample test will be interesting. Even if it tests negative for water or glycol post the results for sodium (Na) and Potassium (K) from the analysis. They are the first indicators of coolant in the oil even before a positive result for glycol and/or water. IMHO anyone who tells you to put gasket sealer (in the cooling system I assume?) is a snake oil salesman and I wouldn't trust him as far as I could throw him .............. all you are doing is making bigger problems to be tackled further down the road. I tried to find info on what psi the factory radiator cap is but came up empty. You've now bought 3 caps at who knows how much each. Just a thought - wouldn't it have been better just to buy a genuine 193-2768 Cap @ $47 from your Cat dealer and have done with it..?
I am very interested in seeing the oil sample. I am shocked that the engine all the sudden cured itself and is running find at the moment. Of course....I'm sure it's a temperature insensitive random situation that will kick in again later out of the blue when least expected. About the cap. Well, I went to test the cap and I didn't have the right adapter in my pressure kit. I went to a car quest and all they had was a 7 pound call put that on. Cat is 2 hours away. They didn't have a cap in stock. So, I got napa to order me two others at different psi until I could figure out the correct psi because I needed to keep the machine running. I have a paving deadline on the job and can't have delay. Also....the coming thanksgiving holidays and temps and asphalt plant thing.....holidays will kill the schedule. Cat wanted $60 for a cap. 2 hours away. That's how that happened. But then...I ended up driving to cat a week later for hoses etc....and the factory cap kinda sucks in quality. I don't know who makes it but it is crappy compared to the aftermarket caps. The shop guys at cat don't know and won't look up the correct psi for a cap. They just said....why look it up? Just go to a parts store and get a cap....they said...that's what we do usually instead of waiting to order the cat cap. The thing is....I tried to to explain to them that I want to test the original cap to see if it was a contributor to the problem and know that in the diagnosis of the situation. The soapy water test around the head gasket seam shows bubbles...sometimes. I am still dedecipher how the dealer says that an oil cooler replacement has been a fix for unfixable coolant puking and overheating woes.... I guess it could be a clog in a cooler issue? I sure do dread the tear down of the heads after my job is complete. But I can't wait to resolve this. Any simple way to pull injectors and do a compression test on a 3066? Thanks guys
A twelve to fourteen pound cap will be OK to use. The higher the pressure the higher the boiling point of the coolant. You will have to recheck all your hose connections when you run that high. The cap sold by Cat is a piece of crap and I've seen brand new ones that wouldn't hold three PSI. Just make sure when you purchase one that the size on the rubber seal and the neck on the radiator is correct. As far as the head bolts go all diesel engine head bolts are pulled into the yield point and stretch when torqued properly. There will be some measurement of length that will determine whether or not they can be re-used. In my experience though it is usually more important to make sure the head bolt holes are cleaned out all the way to the bottom before reinstalling the head. Generally the first one or two times the head is removed and reinstalled the bolts will be OK. Many of the other brand engines now include a go no go gauge for the bolts in the gasket sets.
Thanks. I have a video of the bubbling around the head gasket. Can we upload videos to this forum?