Good morning y'all. My uncle has a construction co in Ga. He asked me if I wanted a 78 Chevy C65 flat bed, to come get it. They parked it 11 months ago because gas was leaking from the diaphragm on the carb. The engine is a 366 with a little over 3000 miles on it. A chevy dealer rebuilt the engine 2 1/2 years ago but didn' rebuild the carb. It' been sitting 11 months and there was about 2" of gas in each tank. It smelled old so I drained both tanks and flushed them with non ethanol gas. I put 5 gallons in each tank to drive it home. I replaced the carb because I had a rebuilt quadrajet on hand. I left the fuel line unhooked to flush it. I can hear both fuel pumps running when I switch from main/aux but I'm not getting any gas at engine. I took the fuel line loose before the fuel filter, right over the passenger side gas tank and no fuel there so, it's not the filter. There is a device above the tank, passenger side, that the fuel line from driver side and passenger side connect to and about a 20" piece of hard line from that to the filter. Can someone tell me what that device is? It looks like it' more than just a tee. Can it go bad from sitting or if someone tried to start it with the bad gas? It was running when parked. I know the socks have to be dirty but it seem like I should be getting a little something pre filter. I will try and post pic of device and truck.
Wanted to add that she runs good when gas is dribbled into carb.
My 1976 C65 has an electric switch on the dash. I'd guess your T is an electrically controlled valve. Also, it might have difficulty getting prime if it has been empty. Often a bit of compressed air at the filler neck will push gas to the pump.
Yup.. diverter valve.. switches from 1 tank to the other.. COMMON failure..
Most Chevrolet and GMC diverter valves defaulted to the drivers side when they failed. It was common. The solenoid holds them one way and the other way is spring held. It could still be rusted. I always used the passenger tank first just in case the diverter failed. You would not know it failed until the drivers tank was empty if you pumped the drivers tank first. Then you switched the lines around or walked. I would pull the gas line by the carb and introduce some air into one tank and then the other to see what one will push thru to the carb. Only a pound of air will do it. Easy way is to wrap a rag around a blow nozzle and squeeze some air in. That would insure the pump has fuel thru it also. If all else fails we were often seen driving a derelict vehicle home when we were kids. Often had a boat tank strapped to the roof and a gravity line directly to the carb.
Thank ya'll for the replies. There is a switch on the dash for main and aux. I not sure which is which but when I switch it, the left pump comes on and visa versa. I will try air in the tank to see if I can force gas to under the hood. If I want to replace the diverter valve, what would I searh for? Also I put a rebuilt quadrajet 600cfm on her. I need to keep pressure around 7psi, where is the pressure regulator located? Also, when I turn the key on the pump takes a minute to start, either on depending on where the main/aux switch is. Sometimes I have to turn the key on and off to start them pumping. Any one else had this problem? I pulled the ign switch and all wires and connections are good.
Its just been sitting for so long that things are bound up.. {probably} Remove/loosen the line to/at the carb.. put a couple of gal. of fuel in each tank or 1 at a time.. Blow air in the tank & see if the fuel comes out.. CHECK THE CONDITION OF THE FUEL.. Now go to the other tank & do the same thing.. CHECKING THE COND. of THAT FUEL TOO.. Now switch the switch on the dash & do the same thing.. that'll tell you which is which.. The last thing you want to happen is>> if the tank has rust/garbage in it, is to get it in the new Quad..
Brother in law's old 86 Chev I use for farm work has but one tank, THANK Goodness. Only issue with it is the gas is so crappy anymore do not dare fill all the way up as it sours so fast from sitting(less than a month is typical). The gas filter is a canister on the right rail just ahead of the tank UNDER the cab floorboard, uses a AC GF-157 cartridge, can is permanent unless rusted thru. Standpipes could also be rusted where 2" fuel is not near enough and is sucking air, only way to know that is pull a tank and pull the standpipe but they were known to rust above the steady filled fuel line if left to sit. BIL's truck has the old Holley square bore on it, been overhauled three times due to dry out by me in five years. May adapt Holley 4bbl injection on it next.
Mine had 366 tall block. After a couple panic situations where I wasn't sure I was going to make it to the top of a hill in the lowest gear, also I couldn't keep it in time, I switched to a rebuilt 427 Truck engine. After switching engines, the timing problem persisted. Turned out there was a tiny plastic nub in the differential that was broken allowing it to wander. These engines are armor plated! Forged crank, four bolt main bearings, massive valves, high lift cam, huge cooling system, etc. They are designed to run 4000 RPM all day long. They will, however, consume gasoline.
The one I use here is thirty to forty gallons a day on a rough day!! JUST on the farm! Two speed is broken(electrical for certain), trans 3rd & 4th gear synchro is bad(double clutch) Clark box, is a bundle of rust the paint holds together but does move dirt. Hydraulics are old City style belt driven engine mount Hydraulic pump. Was a salt spreader for years before previous owner(s) got hold of it, just rots contentedly on my place for now.